
^ 




PQBLISIILD BY \V." S.OILK JL- v'V .\ 



I 



THE 



GREENHOUSE, 

HOT HOUSE, AND STOVE: 

INCLUDING 

SELECTED LISTS OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SPECIES OF 
EXOTIC FLOWERING PL.\NTS, AND DIKECTIONS 
FOR THEIRt t:ULTIVATIGiN.' » : r . 



CHARLES M'iNTOSH^'jT.H.S,/ 

/> 'o . . 

[i VRTJF.NEn TO HIS MAJKSTT THE KIN'G OF THK BETjGIAX?!, ASP A UTHOK OF THE PRACTIC 
GARPKNER,'- &C. 



LONDON: 
WM. S. ORR AND CO., AMEN CORNER, 

PATERNOSTER ROW. 



MDCCCXXXVIII. 



' n:iA^£Sci\ C6, PRINTERS, I 



C C C C ^ c C ' 
C- C C C C c c <^ 

c cc cc c"-cc 



PREFACE. 



The cultivation of exotic plants has usually been treated of in works 
devoted to Horticultural Science generally, so that we have no 
modern treatise especially devoted to the management of the 
Greenhouse. Hence the reader whose attention is directed to this 
branch of the science only, is subjected to the task of wading through 
a mass of matter at once devoid of interest and utihty to him. The 
present pubhcation, which is strictly confined to flowering plants 
requiring the protection of the Greenhouse and its kindi'ed struc- 
tures, is a humble attempt to supply this w ant. 

The arrangement of the subjects is novel, and, it is believed, 
wiW be found to have many practical advantages ; the work being 
divided into sections, which comprise plants requiring for the most 
part the same temperature and mode of management. The instruc- 
tions for culture are not those of a mere theorist, but derived from 
the daily experience of many years ; and the author has endeavoured 
always to use language so plain and free from technicahties as to 
be clearly understood by every class of readers. 

The preliminary remarks on Hothouse Architectm'e and Modes 
of Heating are the result of - pretty extensive experience in these 
departments. Those on the latter are free from bias towards any 
particular mode. Experience is in this, as in all other matters, 
om* only safe guide ; a remark which is exemplified by the fate of 
many ingenious theories on this subject, which are rapidly falling 
into oblivion. 



iv 



PREFACE. 



The Select Lists of Plants are compiled from notes made in the 
author's own practice, and comprise most of those which are re- 
markable from their splendour or fragrance, or some other peculiar 
merit. Should any such, however, have escaped the author's notice, 
the intelligent cultivator will have no difficulty in referring them to 
their respective situat?ions in the Lists. 

In the course of a work of this extent, some typographical errors 
were to be expected ; but the author is not aware of any whose 
meaning is not made sufficiently clear by its context without the 
insertion of any list of errata. 

Claremont, September, 1838. 



CONTENTS. 

1 



Antiquity of the Science— Greenhouses in General— Arrangement of the Subject 
—Architecture— Modes of Warming- by Flues— Steam— Hot Water— Manage- 
ment of Furnaces— Glazing— Form and Situation . . . Page 1—56 

THE HEATHERY. 

Situation and Form of a Heath-house— Propagation and Treatment xn and Out 
of Doors— Best Soil— Water— Shifting and Potting— Genera requiring similar 
Treatment— Select Lists— Sizes and Colours . . . . . 57—90 



THE GERANIUM HOUSE. 

Habits of the Geraniace«— Best Structures— Propagation and Treatment of 
Young Plants— General Treatment In and Out of Doors— Soil— Water and, Pot- 
ting— Select List 91—108 



THE CAMELLIA HOUSE. 

Formation of the Camellia House — Celebrated Collections — Propagation by 
Seeds —By Grafting, Budding, Inarching, and Layers— Soil— Shifting— Select 
List — Makoy's Collections — Plants that may be cultivated along ^vith 
them 109—134 



THE BULB HOUSE. 

Character of Bulbs— Stmctures for their Cultivation— General Management- 
Soil — Shifting and Potting — General Remarks — Select List . . 135 — 170 



THE SUCCULENT HOUSE. 

General Remarks on Succulent Plants — Stractures adapted for them — Propaga- 
tion and Treatment — Soil— Shifting and Potting— Mr. Beaton's Treatment of 
Succulents— Vitality of their Seeds— Select Lists .... 171—196 



THE MIXED GREENHOUSE. 

Structures— General Treatment— Propagation by Seeds and Cuttings— Soil- 
Shifting and Potting— Genera adapted for the Mixed Greenhouse — Select 
Lists 197—231 

THE CONSERVATORY. 

Tlie Conservatory described— Its most proper Situation— Consenatory at the 
Grange— Advantage of having Plants in Pots or Tubs— Watering— Select 
Lists 232—248 



vi 



CONTENTS. 



THE ORANGERY. 

Neglect of the Orange Plant— Structures for their Cultivation— Propagation and 
General Treatment— Soil— Potting and Shifting . . . Page 249—254 



THE PLANT VERANDAH. 

Advantages of the Verandah — Elegant Ornaments — Styles of Architecture — Mode 
of obtaining Supplies of Flowers— Modes of Heating the Verandah 255 — 259 



PROTECTING TENT AND COLD PIT. 

Its Utility— Structure — Recommended by Mr. Herbert for Bulbs— Management 
of Plants— Genera calculated for the Tent— The Cold Pit— Its Management 
and Utility— Lists of Plants 260—273 



STOVE, OR TROPICAL PLANTS. 

Cultivation of Tropical Plants— Erection of Stoves — Ventilation — Heating — Water 
— Bottom Heat — Most remarkable Stoves. — The Moist Stove : — Propagation 
and Ti'eatment— By Seeds — Cuttings- Layers — Treatment in the diflferent 
Seasons— Plants requiring peculiar Cultivation — Select List of Moist Stove 
Plants — Select List of TropicaV Climbers. — The Dry Stove : — Its Structure — 
Select Lists 274—325 



THE ORCHIDE^ HOUSE. 

Singular Organization of the Plants— Their Fragrance and Beauty— Geographical 
Distribution— Peculiar Cultivation required— Construction of the House- 
Advantage of a Span-roofed House— Water— Mode of Heating— General Culti- 
vation—Potting and Soil— Requisite Temperature— Propagation— Divisions- 
Select Lists 326—350 



THE AaUARIUM, PALM STOVE, ETC. 

Nature and Situation of the Aquarium— General Management— List of Plants— 
Palm Stove— Description of House required — Tropical Fruits — Construc- 
tion of the House— Species of Fruits— Spices 351—394 



THE SCITAMINE^, OR REEDY PLANT STOVE. 

Beauty of the ^Plants— Structures — Routine of Culture — Culture of Ginger- 
Select List 379—405 



THE CRYPTOGAMIC STOVE. 

Peculiar Conformation of these Plants— Structures for cultivating them— Rais- 
ing from Seeds— By Division of the Root— Soil and Culture — Mr. Ward^s 
Method 406-412 



LIST OF PLATES. 



Succulent Plaxts, Froniispiecc, 
VigyieUe. 

Heaths .. G4 

(tReexhouse Perennials , 78 

Heath?, pi. 2 So 

Geraniums 97 

Camellia , 113 

Mixed Greenhouse, pi. 2 1.31 

Greenhouse Shrubs 134 

Bulbous Plants 144 

Succulent Plants .. .. 171 

Miscellaneous 197 

Calceolaria .. .. 214 

Conservatory Plants 232 

Moist Stove Plants 302 

Stove Perennials 308 

Orchide^ ' .342 

Orchide^, pi. 2 346 



■4 




^ HE eultiTation of Exotic Plants, whether pursued 
// ^1 with the Tiew of producing fruits or flowers, is 
admitted to hold the highest rank in horticul- 
tural science, and it would appear that a taste 
for the enjoyments this pursuit yields must 
have existed from a Yer\' early period, and that 
it has kept pace with the more refined and peaceful arts wherever these have 
flourished. The writings of Virgil, Horace, Seneca, and Martial sufficiently 
prove, that among the nations of antiquity a very strong attachment 
existed for cultivating exotic flowers and the two latter historians speak 
practice both of retarding and producing them prematurely by artificial 
means during the more luxurious days of the empire. 

About the commencement of the fifteenth century, the wealthy mer- 
chants of Venice and Genoa began to introduce the plants of the East 
into Europe, and botanical collections were commenced by the inha- 
bitants of these opulent and enterprising cities. The wealthy Flemings 
also, according to Lobel, imported plants from the Levant and the East 



2 



GREENHOUSES. 



Indies as early as the times of the Crusaders and under the Dukes of 
Burgundy, and theu' gardens are said to have contained more exotic 
plants than all the rest of Em*ope besides, until the civil and desolating 
wars of the sixteenth centun' diverted men's minds from such peaceful 
pursuits. 

About the middle of the sixteenth century, a taste for exotic flowering 
plants began to prevail in Britain, for about this period the gardens of the 
Duke of Somerset at Sion House, Edward St. Loo, in Somersetshire, 
James Coel at Highgate, James Nasmyth, and of the celebrated GeiTard 
were estabhshed; and Nicholas Lete, Sir Walter Raleigh, Lord Edward 
Zouch, and Lord Hudson are all recorded as importers of new and rare 
plants. 

Greenhouses and stoves were first erected in this country dming the 
seventeenth centmy, and the Duke of Lauderdale, Sh Henry CajDpel, and 
J^ady Clarendon are recorded by EvehTi as patrons of exotic gardening 
during this period. 

During the early part of the eighteenth centurv*, the cultivation of 
exotic plants was carried on with great spmt, upwards of five thousand 
species being introduced fi'om foreign countries dm'ing the period, besides 
the discovery of many indigenous species. The great patrons of the 
art at this time, were Sir Hans Sloane, to whom we are also indebted 
for the foundation of the British ^luseum, the Duke of Chandos, Compton, 
Speaker of the House of Commons, Compton, Bishop of London, the 
Duke of Ai'gyle, the Drs. Uvedale, Lloyd, Sherard, Fothergill and Pitcakn, 
the gardeners in most repute being ]Miller, Fahchild, Lee, Gordon, 
Knowlton, and Gray. The latter part of the eighteenth, and the beginning 
of the nineteenth century, however, has been the great botanical era 
for which this comitiy vrill ever be conspicuous. The discoveiy of Aus- 
traha, the extension of the British power in India and both the Americas 
— aided by the patronage of the most wealthy aristocracy in the world, 
including the soverign himself, who thought it not beneath his dignity to 
join his subjects in sending out collectors to all quarters of the globe. 
Theii' united exertions have brought a combination of power to bear 
on botanical discovery, which has been attended with tlie most happy 
result, to which the enterprising commercial spirit of the late jlessrs. Lee 
and Kennedy, the most celebrated collectors of those days, rendered essen- 
tial assistance. 

Not only have botanical and horticultural gpj'dens been estabhshed in 
all om' priucii^al cities, but private ones are maintained with princely 
liberality by many of our nobility and gentry, amongst whom the Dukes 



GREEXHOUSES. 3 

of Devonsliire, Northumberland, and Bedford, deserve honourable mention. 
Indeed, the taste for exotic botany and floriculture seems to prevail among 
all classes ; and the number of collectors employed in different parts of 
the world is a proof that the taste is rapidly increasing. 




Clematis Sieboldii. 



B 2 



GREENHOUSES. 



Before entering into any details respecting the cultivation of green- 
house flowering plants, it may be necessary to offer some preHminary 
remarks on the arrangement and erection of such structm-es as are neces- 
sary for their successful cultivation, founding our observations on the 
principle of economy of fuel, elegance of design, and fitness for the 
end in viev^^ We cannot, perhaps, do better than precede these remarks 
by the accompanying view of the Duke of Northumberland's splendid 
conservatory at Sion House. 

In taking a retrospective view of what has been already written on this 
subject, it vrould appear, that authors for the most part have confined 
themselves to providing for the wants of the great and the opident, whdle 
the more humble, and by far the most numerous class of plant cultivators 
have been left as it were, without the benefit of instruction. To supply 
this deficiency will be one of the objects kept in ^iew in the following 
remarks ; Yve shall also endeavour to treat this subject so as to embrace 
the greatest possible variety of circumstances, and as a rule from which 
there should be few deviations, we recommend the adaptation of the 
structm-e — first, to the circumstances of the proprietor ; next, to the 
capabilities of the situation ; and lastly, to the description of plants 
intended to be cultivated in them. 



ASPECT FOR A GREENHOUSE. 



5 



lu regard to situation, sometliing depends on the taste of thxe owner, 
the style of his mansion, the extent and position of his garden, the species 
of enjoyment he is most desirous of obtaining, but much more on that 
situation being as much as possible exposed to the full influence of light 
and air, and as fi'ee from the shade of trees or buildings as possible. It is 
not necessarj^, however, for ordinary purposes, that the greenhouse should 
exactly front the meridian sun, for whether it be placed immediately in 
connection with the mansion, or stand as an object of decoration in the 
flower garden or shrubbery, its front (all other circumstances being favour- 
abie) may be either to the south, south-east, south-west, or any of the 
points of the compass which intervene. 

No species of horticultui-al structure admits of such a variety of modi- 
fications as that now under consideration, and hence it is that we see 
plant houses in every diversity of relation, from the most refined perfection 
of taste, to the extreme point of absm'dity. The success of the cultivator 
will, however, be found nearly in proportion to the position his house 
occupies between those extreme points, and the cause of failure evidently 
arises from a want of previous arrangement in adapting the structure to 
local circumstances, and the object to be attained. 

It frequently happens, that greenhouses are built without any pre^ious 
consideration as to what plants are to be cultivated in them ; this is setting 
out upon the worst principle possible, because, what might be an excellent 
situation for an Orangery or CamelUa house, would be the very worst possible 
for a Heathery or Geranium house ; the two former can accommodate them- 
selves to a very limited degree of Ught and air, while the latter cannot 
have either supplied in too great abundance. Again, a house intended 
for large specimens of plants, would be the worst possible structui'e for 
young or small plants ; as for the former purpose a lofty house would be 
required, while for the latter it can scarcely be too low, small plants 
requiring to be placed as near to the hght as posible. 

We may here observe, that one of the most common faults fallen into 
by greenhouse builders, is that of making them too lofty to suit the 
majority of plants to be cultivated in them. This fault is not only un- 
favourable to the plants cultivated, but occasions an unnecessary expense in 
the first erection, and entails a considerable annual cost ever afterwards ; 
low, and rather narrow houses are better for general purposes, (par- 
ticularly if on a small scale), than lofty and wide houses, as the 
plants are then placed, not only in a better position as regards Hght and 
air, but are seen to greater advantage by the observer. It is also better 
to have several small houses, each set apart for particular families of 



6 



GREEXHOUSES. 



plants, than to have larger houses with a view to growing them indis- 
criminately. 

Such lofty and extensive ranges of plant structures as those at Sion, 
Alton Towers, and other places, may he all \ery well in their respective 
places, and may not be beyond the proper scale of grandeur necessary to 
correspond with the princely objects surrounding them ; but so far as 
plant culture alone is concerned, no arrangement can be more unsuccessful, 
as may be seen in contrasting the state of plants in such houses with 
those grown in stmctures of humbler dimensions. If it were possible, 
indeed, to cover a sufficient space of ground with a glass roof, under which 
the trees of Australia, for instance, could be seen in the full developement 
of their growth, there might be some advantage, but to attempt to exhibit 
any thing hke the natural character of such trees in their full proportions, 
under such buildings as has hitherto been aimed at, is a very vain attempt. 
From the nature of the atmosphere in such houses, trees and plants will 
extend themselves till they reach the top, but during the struggle the 
more dehcate, and often the more valuable ones, are overcome by their 
more robust neighbours, while even these present mere skeletons, furnished 
vnth a few branches and leaves at the top, while the naked stems, scarcely 
able to support themselves, are without a bud, branch, or leaf. Not so 
the same genera of plants cultivated in moderately sized houses : under 
such management they branch out from the surface of the pot upwards, 
covered, in their seasons, with a profusion of blossoms, dehghting the eye 
with the brilliancy of theii' colours, and the sense of smeUing with the 
fragi'ance of their perfume. 

As to cultivating a general collection of plants in the same house, 
although very generally attempted, it is by no means to be recommended. 
The treatment by different families of plants, varies so much at certain 
seasons, that the best cultivators have found, from that sure test, ex- 
perience, that it is better to appropriate separate houses to such families as 
nearly agree in cultiu-e and habit. 

Such is our view of the subject : plants to be well cultivated ought to 
be divided into groups, in a somewhat similar manner to that sketched 
out in the following pages. The cultivator who shall du*ect his attention 
to one, two, or more of these dirisions, according to his taste and chcum- 
stances, ^ill be much more amply repaid, than if he were to congregate 
plants of discordant habits, and of different climates, into one habitation, 
merely for what he may choose to call variety, or a rich collection of species. 
The mania for accumulating species, instead of forming judicious selections 
of good flowering plants, has produced veiy baneful effects in the EngUsh 



ADVANTAGES OF A SMALL GREEXHOUSE. 



gardens, not only by excluding old and good plants, merely because they 
had long been denizens amongst us, but by introducing many which have 
no other merit to recommend them than novelty; how many of the 
plants of New Holland are cultivated, scarcely worth the pot in which 
they grow, othei'wise than in a botanical point of view, as may be 
instanced in the genera Eucalyptus^ most of the HaJcea, Petrophila, and 
Isopogon, We repeat, that if greater attention was paid to the selecting of 
fine flowering plants, and cultivating individual specimens well, instead of 
crowding our greenhouses with inferior plants, to the destruction of each 
other, they would present a very different appearance to what they usually 
do. Next to forming selections, instead of attempting collections, we 
would recommend to cultivators, and to amateur cultivators in particular, 
to confine their culture and attention to some one of the divisions we have 
enumerated. In this respect, our continental neighbours far excel us, 
and by confining themselves to the cultivation of certain families, they 
have become conspicuous in these departments. 

How far the florist has excelled the general collector in this particular, 
we need hardly state ; by confining himself to his tulip bed, his auricula 
stage, or his cai'nation stand, he is enabled to cultivate them in great 
perfection, — not so the general collector ; — the florist has the economy of 
those three famihes to study, while the general cultivator has probably 
that of three thousand, and those congregated from the most opposite 
quarters of the globe, and existing under the greatest diversity of circimi- 
stances. We might justify these opinions by refering to the success with 
which Messrs. Rollisons, of Tooting, cultivate the Ericas, and latterly 
the Orchidecs, and of Messrs. Chandlers, of Vauxhall, in the culti- 
vation of Camellia, were such proof necessary ; but it speaks for itself, and 
the same reason applies to every pursuit of mankind ; where undivided 
attention is given to any of our pursuits, an approximation to perfection 
in that pursuit may be expected. The divisions or groups into which we 
should like to see all greenhouse exotics arranged, would be something 
like the following : 



The Heathery, 
The Geranium House, 
The Camillia House, 
The Bulb House, 
The Succulent House, 
The Mixed Greenhouse, 



The Orangery, 
The Conservatory, 
The Plant Veranda, 
Protecting Tent, 
Cold Pit, 
The Stove. 



8 



GREENHOUSES. 



To tMs aiTangement it may be supposed that we should have added 
The AauARiuM, but as most exotic aquatics are intra-tropical, we shall 
notice them when we come to treat on the subject of plant stoves. 

In the progress of this work it will be seen that arrangements have been 
made, wliich we trust vrill meet the views of most of our readers, by offering 
selections of such plants as may be admitted into each of these divisions, 
^nthout infringing the rules we have laid down. And as this is the first 
time that such an arrangement has been recommended upon so general a 
prmciple, we shall rejoice to see it reduced to practice by some of our 
enterprising and inteUigent readers. 



9 



HOT HOUSE ARCHITECTURE. 

All horticultural erections should be of wood, in preference to metalic 
matter, not only because of its greater economy and fitness for the pur- 
pose, but also on account of durability and elegance of effect. We are 
perfectly aware that this has been a controverted point, but we have been 
so situated as to be enabled to judge of the relative merits of both without 
prejudice or interest, and our conclusion, after the experience of 
thirty years, is in unison with those of the majority of intelligent gar- 
deners, who alone are capable of judging, as their conclusions are drawn 
from actual practical experience. It would be out of place here to enter 
into the merits or defects of either ; but we think it necessary so far to 
explain our opinions on this subject, that our views may be the less hable 
to misconception in the remarks on the plant structures we think necessary 
for the production of fine flowering exotics. 

We are also supported in these views by Mr. Thomson, of the Sion 
nursery, Norwood, whose experience in those matters justify us in quoting 
his authority. " Having had fifteen years of practical experience in 
managing upwards of three thousand running feet of glass," he says, in a 
communication prepared by him for this work, " I am enabled to speak 
with some decision on the subject, and I feel fully justified, indeed, in 
saying, that when the respective merits of wood and iron are fully ascer- 
tained, the prejudice in favour of the latter will cease to exist in the minds 
of those practically acquainted with the properties of the two materials. 
The expansive power of metaUc substances is Yery great, and so powerful 
have I known the action of the sun^s rays in expanding the iron rafters 
of a large roof on a hot summer's day, that the strength of two, and 
sometimes three men has been insufficient to force do^\Ti the sliding 
lights for the admission of air. In fully equal proportions have I wit- 
nessed the contraction of the metal during the intensit}^ of winter, 
leaving large apertures between the rafters and the lights, and admitting 
the external air sufficiently to counteract the power of two strong flues. 
This occurrence took place in February, 1830, and the house in question 
was of moderate dimensions, when compared to the wood-roofed ^inery 
I am about to contrast it with. The building was forty feet long, by sixteen 
wide, and nine feet high, having a pit in the middle for the culture of 
pines, which very much reduced the quantity of air to be rarified. The 
wood-roofed vinery was fifty feet long, by fourteen feet wide, and foiuteen 



10 



MR. Thompson's experimext. 



feet Mgh, without any pit in the middle ; the result of my observations 
on those two houses, and the quantity of fuel required by each of them, 
was as follows : The iron-roofed house with eighteen degi'ees of frost, 
required nearly six bushels of coals, and unremitting attention during the 
night and until three o'clock in the moridng, while scarcely three bushels 
were consumed in keeping the vinery at the same degree of temperature, 
no attention being required after ten o'clock, at which time the fires were 
made up and left for the night. 

Being determined to investigate thoroughly the merits of the two 
materials, I caused one house, constructed of wood, and another of iron, of 
precisely the same dimensions as regards the superficial feet of glass, to 
be perfectly repaired, in the autumn of 1832, and on having them examined 
and repaired in the following season, I found that the cost of repairing 
the iron house was nearly double the sum required to repair the wood 
one, which I attributed to the expansion of the iron in summer and its 
contraction in the winter. From these and other experiments I have had 
opportunities of making, I have arrived at the conclusion, that wood has 
the advantage over iron in four xery essential points, viz., the saving of 
fuel, glass, and labour. I have also found it conducive to the better growth 
of plants and fruits, as I have never found the plants thrive so well or 
look so healthy in an iron, as in a wooden-roofed house, 

"I am aware that for lightness of appearance in the structure, iron has 
hitherto had the advantage, but I am confident that if proper attention 
were paid to the erection of hot houses, and to the materials used in their 
erection, the appearance of the wood roof would be less objectionable, and 
for the assistance of persons of less practical experience than myself, I here 
give a brief description of the materials and mode of construction I would 
recommend, as combining all the desired objects. The first thing to be 
attended to is, to give the roof a proper pitch or incUnation, so as eflfect- 
ually to cany off the water, and to prevent drip into the house, which is 
liighly injurious to all plants, particularly to those grown in pots ; the 
rafters should be of wood, varying according to the length of the roof, 
from six to eleven inches in breadth, and the section of the rafter should 
be wedge-shaped, from three to four inches wide on the 
upper side, where the lights rest, and about half an inch 
wide on the under side. The strength of all rafters depend 
more on their depth than thickness. The shade would be 
also less. The four sides of the hghts (all made of wood) 
should be as follows, — the top should be from five to six 
inches wide, the sides two and a half inches, and the bottom from six to 




GREEXHOUSES. 



11 



seven inches, and to prevent as mucli as possible the obstruction of Ught, the 
sash bars should be made of copper, which need not be more than half an. 
inch square ; this will give the house at once a light and neat appeai'ance, 
without subjecting the plants to the injurious extremes of hot and- cold 
temperatiu-e, which would be the result of a roof entirely metahc, and 
without increasing the cost of erection. 

" These few hints are thrown out for the guidance of parties desirous of 
erecting the most perfect kind of forcing houses ; but it will be obvious that 
before undertaking any structure of this kind, the various questions of 
locality, as well as the use for which it is wanted, must be taken into con- 
sideration, and on these subjects we recommend that the practical gardener 
should be consulted, whose experience will be found of much more 
utihty in laying down the various conveniences essential to a well ordered 
house, than the architect or surveyor. I witnessed a remarkable illustra- 
tion of this during the past summer, in the total destruction of a fine crop 
of grapes, as well as of the foliage, in the hot house belonging to a gentle- 
man in Kent. The house was erected of cast ii'on, about six years ago, 
and the catastrophe occiued through the carelessness of the architect in 
not providing proper ventilation, the gardener, who is admitted to be 
an excellent practical one, was compelled to have holes, about a foot 
broad and three feet long, made in the back wall of the second house, 
for ventilatiou, these he covered by shutters hung on hinges, to prevent 
the fruit from shaiing the same fate ; he preserved the fniit by this 
means, but not ^vithout gi'eat injury to the foliage." 

We have availed om'selves of ^h. Thompson's opinions because he had 
ample opportimities of drawing unprejudiced conclusions dming the period 
he had the direction of the extensive hot houses at Sion, which have been 
considered the perfection of metahc houses. To his testimony we might 
add that of many others of equal credit, but we shall conclude by refering 
the reader to the opinions of :Mr. Paxton of Chalworth, ^Mr. ^r^Miirtrie of 
Shughborough, and ^Mr. Thompson, late of AYelbeck, pubhshed in the 
Trans, of the Hort. Soc. and Hoit. Reg. for oiurselves. 

^ye only know of one architect who has attained any celebrity in hot 
house architecture, and that is ^y. Atkinson, Esq., of whose improvements 
we shall have occasion elsewhere to allude. 



12 



HEATING GREENHOUSES. 

Amoxgst the various methods of heating gi'eeuhouses. hot water is 
certainly the most economical, efficient, and certain ; but under ordinan' 
circumstances, so Httle artificial heat is required for greenhouses, strictly 
so called, that we think the erection supei-fluous, unless where it can be 
put up at the same expense as the common flue. There are circumstances, 
however, where its apphcation can be made to them with advantage, 
namely, when several houses are to be heated at the same time, and 
attached together so that one boiler may sen'e the purpose of several, or 
where the greenhouse is so placed that the back, or one of the ends, may 
be connected with the walls of the kitchen, or with some part of the 
dwelling house, where a constant fii'c is kept up. In this case, a boiler may 
be so constructed as to be heated by the fii'e used for domestic pm*poses, 
by means of a pipe communicating thi'ough the wall, with the pipes in the 
greenhouse. A small greenhouse might be heated by this means from 
any ordinary kitchen, or even parlour fire ; a cock, upon Kewley's prin- 
ciple, being placed so as to tmii the hot water ofl* or on, at pleasure. 

For ti'opical plants, where a considerable temperatui-e is reqiiii-ed. a hot 
water apparatus should be fitted up expressly for the pm*pose, unless the 
stove be of ven- limited dimensions, and placed so as to be heated as 
above ; but we shall have occasion to retm'n to this subject when we come 
to treat of plant stoves. 

The degree of heat requu'ed for gi'eenhouses is just sufficient to repel 
fi'ost and to dispel damp. To efiect the former, if the vrinter be mild, the 
fire may not be requisite more than from thi'ee to twelve nights in the 
course of the winter, and the degree of heat need not be more than 
sufficient to warm the flue. ^'Mien required for drying up superfluous 
damp, if the house be properly glazed and cai'e taken not to spill water 
unnecessarily, one or two fires during the season may be sufficient. 
These, let it be obseiTed. should be apphed dming the day. when the 
house can be fully ventilated, for the escape of the damp air. It is to be 
observed, that when required for dispelling frost, the best. and. perhaps, the 
most simple rule is, not to apply the fire until the fi'ost appear to be foiTuing 
on the inner siurface of the roof Hghts. excepting in the geranium house, 
where it should be apphed when the frost is forming on the outer smtace 
of the glass. The application of heat mil be more fully explained under 
each division, as no general nfie can be safely acted upon. 



I 



THE DUTCH FLUE. 



13 



The economy of fuel is a matter of so much importance, that Tvhat- 
ever plan can be demised for lessening its consumption, must be received 
as a national benefit. ^luch has been written, and, Tve fear, to little 
purpose, on the economy of fuel when applied to domestic purposes. 
Much less has been written, and much more effected by practical ex- 
perience in the economy of this article, when apphed to horticultuTal 
purposes ; and in all probability-, the perfection of the principle of heat- 
ing has been attained by the inyention and apphcation of the hot water 
system. 

In endeavouring to lay down mles for regidating the temperature of 
greenhouses, plant stoves, &c., it will sufficiently appear that the same 
rules are equally appMcable to forcing houses, pits, and structures of 
every denomination. To render our ^iews on this subject as clear as 
possible, we shall give a brief detail of the various modes practised, 
pointing out, as we proceed, the merits or defects of each. 'V^'e adopt 
tliis arrangement because hot houses are erected under such a variety 
of ckcumstances, that some one of the various modes detailed, may, 
in some cases, be found more convenient and practicable than others. 

The Dutch, to whom we are indebted for our first hints on the 
apphcation of fii'e heat as a mediimi for warming hot houses, employed 
earthenware or can flues at fii"st, and, in many cases, these are employed 
to the present day. These consisted of pipes, similar to those used for 
conveying water, but of lai'ger dimensions, being seldom less than from 
nine to twelve inches in diameter, they were joined together with 
cement, and sometimes placed upon bricks, to keep them cleai' of the 
borders, at other times they were embedded in sand, vdih the view 
of retaining the heat longer in the house. The advantages of these 
flues are, that they can be rapidly heated, and, therefore, may be used 
with advantage in greenhouses and pits where moderate fii'cs are used, 
and where the intention is to repel sudden attacks of frost ; but they 
requu'e unusual attention, as they are quickly heated, and cool with 
equal rapidity. These flues were formerly much used in this coimtr}-, 
but have long since given place to brick ones, as being more safe and 
steady in their operation. 

The next improvement in heating, originated also with the Dutch, 
and consisted of broad and deep fines ; the former is still used very 
generally in Holland and Geimany, and the latter is almost in universal 
use in Hussia. These, also, were adopted in this coimtry, but have in 
their tiu'n long ago given place to other forms. 

The most primitive mode in use in this countiy, however, was to build 



■i 



14 



SIR GEORGE M'KENZIE's FLUE. 



them in the ground like drains ; this mode was aftervyards changed to 
that of building them in the solid walls, either at the back or front of the 
house. By this means much of the heat was lost in the solid building, 
little of it finding its way into the house. But the most rational im- 
provement which followed this, was the practice of building them quite 
detached from all other description of walls. 

J. R. Gowen, Esq., in the " Horticultural Transactions," vol. III., pro- 
posed flues constructed of bricks, of the usual thickness at the sides, and 
hollowed out in the middle, vdth the ^iew, no doubt, of attaining equa 
strength to the flue in general use, and admitting, at the same time, of 
the more ready escape of the heat into the house through the thinner 
parts. The covers of these flues were hoUowed^out in a similar manner to 
the bricks mth which the sides were built. 




Sir George M'Kenzie, in the work last quoted, recommended what he 
called an embrasure flue, of which the annexed diagram wiU give some 
idea. The principle of tliis flue is that of exposing a greater heated 
smface in proportion to its length. This flue was found to fall far 
short of the expectations of its inventor, in practice, and was only in a 
very few cases adopted. The same intelligent gentleman proposed for trial 
a riangular cast iron flue ; but, hke the flues proposed by other indi^iduals, 
of the same material, was found to possess no advantage whatever, but 
were hable to many objections, of which that of being rapidly heated and 
as soon losing then' heat, were not the least. 

The German stove, with iron pipes for conveying smoke and heat, has 
been long used on the continent, but is hable to the objections stated as 
belonging to the last. The improved flue recommended by Mr. Loudon, 
in " A Treatise on Several Improvements in Hot houses,^^ Sfc, p. 33, con- 
sisted in dividing the flue into chambers, or compartments, mth a view to 
arrest the progress of the heat, and to fiU. each chamber with smoke and 
heated air before the one next in fi'ont of it could become occupied with 
it, and so on till these chambers at last became aU completely charged 
with heat, before any could escape at the chimney top. This, as well as 
the hot ah' flue built on the top of the ordinarj^ flue, i^commended by the 



THE GERMAX FLUE. 



15 



same authority, were found to be inferior to the most ordinan^ description 
of flues then in use. Indeed, the latter improvement, viz,, the hot air 
flue, the late Nicol proved to be worse than useless." 

Formerly, flues were built partly under ground ; only the better con- 
structed ones of that period were above it, but not separated from it, a 
circumstance which kept them continually damp, impeded the di-aught, 
and lost a very considerable portion of the heat. Succeeding improve- 
ments suggested the propriety of not only building all flues upon arches, 
or a soUd foundation of brick work, but also of elevating the flue one 
brick or more above the level of the borders. This was the last and 
most important improvement in the erection of flues. ^Ye may, however, 
here observe, that cast iron plates were recommended as covers for flues ; 
and also pavement stones, as well as tiles, both plain and hollowed out, to 
hold water for the purpose of steaming the house. The former of these 
are veiy objectionable ; the second very good, when stone of a quahty 
capable of standing the heat to which flues are exposed can be procured ; 
and the thu'd and fomth, for general purposes, the best of all. 

Flues constructed entkely of flag stones have been tried, but it is 
difficult to procm-e stone calculated for this pui'pose, besides, no stone with 
which we are acquainted, is so well adapted for the transmission of heat, 
as well prepared and not over humt tiles and bricks. 

No flue should be plastered, either TNithin or ^vithout, as plaster is a 
bad conductor of heat, and, therefore, very unfit for the purpose. 

Various other sorts of flues have been since recommended by difi'erent 
writers in the Horticultural Soc. Trans, and elsewhere ; but as they are 
mostly modifications of those abeady noticed, it would be superfluous 
^ to attempt their descriptions. 

The best of all flues are those most commonly in use in well 
ordered houses : they are built of thin well bm'nt and regular sized 
bricks, placed on edge, and neatly jointed with well prepared moitar, but 
neither plastered inside nor out. Such flues vary in their dimensions 
from nine to twelve inches in ^idth inside, and from fourteen to eighteen 
inches in height. They are always covered vdth. tiles,- either plain, 
or hollowed out for holding water, or with flag stones of a description 
calcLilated to stand the heat. In most cases, the flue should enter thi'ough 
the back wall at one end of the house, pass on to mthin two or three 
inches, or morej (according as space vriU admit) of the front wall or 
parapet, nni parallel with it to the extremity of the house, pass round the 
farther end, and return parallel to the back wall, and Aritliin two or three 
inches of it. Or, after having reached the extremity of the house, the flue 



16 



USE OF DAMPERS. 



may return within a few inches of the former, and in both cases the smoke 
will escape through the back wall near to the furnace. Two narrow flues 
are better than one broad one of a capacity equal to both. In narrow 
flues, the velocity of heat is much greater than in broad ones, therefore, it 
sooner reaches the end farthest from the fire, and consequently maintains 
a more regular degree of temperature between both ends of the house. 
Flues should never, if it can be avoided, be built upon the top of each other ; 
neither should they be placed at too great a distance from the front of 
the house, which is in all houses the coldest part. If a flue be placed in 
the centre of a house, it would appear at first sight, from the well kno^Ti 
property of heat, that it would radiate equally from each point, and 
that the centre of the house would be the most proper situation for 
the flue to be placed in. That the heat would radiate in this manner, 
is quite true ; but the lower and front part of the house being colder than 
any other parts, the pressure of the cold air would be so great, that 
the particles sent oiF by radiation from the flue, would be unable to 
resist it with suflacient force. It Tvill, consequently, remain the coldest 
part of the house, and, therefore, the most proper situation for the flues 
to be placed in. 

The use of dampers have been recommended, and these have been of 
various constructions: the object to be attained by them is to regulate the 
heat in the flue, and also to prevent its escape from the chimney top, 
by confining it in the flue and causing it to escape into the house through 
the bricks. This would no doubt be all very well, if we were certain of 
the purity of the heat so enclosed, or if there were a total absence of 
expansibility in the natm*e of heat ; but if heat be so enclosed, it is apt to 
expand to that degree, that the flues would not be able to contain it, and 
an explosion might be the consequence, which might prove destruction to 
the whole contents of the house. The best mode of regulating flues is 
decidedly the proper use of a good fm-nace, with double doors and an 
ash pit register. With such an apparatus and a weU constructed flue, 
eveiy ol>ject of the cultivator may be accomphshed. 



17 



STEA:^^ APPAEATUS. 

In an age when steam has almost revolutionized the commercial 
interests of the world, we need not be surprised at its application to the 
pm-poses of horticultm-e. The fct attempt to accomplish this appears to 
have been made by "Wakefield, in 1788, but of the success of his plan we 
have no certain record. Its first successful apphcation was made in 1792, 
by Butler, then gardener to the Earl of Derby ; but it was not till about 
1816 that the pr'bcess of heating by steam became at all general. About 
that time the forcing-houses in Kensington Gardens, those of the Messrs. 
Loddiges, of Hackney, and others equally extensive, were heated by this 
means ; and where an extensive range of houses is to be heated, or where 
it can be applied to other pm-poses, as is done by Mr. Gray, of Homsey, 
we have no hesitation in advocating this metiiod of heating. This gentle- 
man, by the aid of two boilers, a large and small one, (the latter to be 
used when the least heat was requii'ed) warmed in his garden ten large 
hot houses, the largest of them five hundred and fifty feet distant from the 
boiler, and containing in all above fifty thousand cubic feet of aii'. Be- 
sides this, the mansion, farm-yard, and out-o:^ces were also heated at the 
same time. 

Among other proofs of the advantages of steam, we may state that 
the uniformity of the heat is such, that the tubes close to the boiler 
cannot be heated beyond two hundred and twelve degrees, while, at the 
distance of one or two thousand feet, or, indeed, any definite number 
of feet, nearly the same degree of heat may be foimd. 'We have already 
noticed that this is the principal advantage of heating by steam. The 
secondary advantages are the economy of fuel and of labour, and the pos- 
sibility- of keeping the whole hot house department in neat and compact 
order. Instead of a number of farnaces, stock holes, and other ordinary 
modes, by tliis method the whole may be confined to one chamber, 
which may be placed at a sufficient distance to be completely hidden 
from any pait of the garden, and, instead of a number of chimney 
tops, each giving out its column of smoke, only one will be necessan', 
that being so contrived as to be hidden from the principal walks and 
points of view. In addition to these, may be added the small space occu- 
pied by the steam pipes compared witli smoke flues ; and then- capability 
of passing under foot paths, over door ways, and similar obstructions, 
which smoke flues cannot be expected to do. 

A prejudice in favoui* of steam seems to have arisen as soon as its 

c 



18 



ADVANTAGES OF STEAM. 



application became general, from the notion that houses heated by this 
means would be exempt from insects. No such thing is the case, for heat 
is the same material, and has the same effect, whether given out from a 
steam pipe, hot water pipe, or a well jointed and smoke-tight flue. 

The expense of erecting a steam apparatus for the purpose of heating 
hot houses of ordinary dimensions, would be extravagant. But other 
objections might be stated against its application by means of tubes, had 
not the mania for heating by steam given way to the more rational one of 
heating by hot water. 

Steam has been apphed in a variety of w^ays in heating plant houses, 
but that of causing it to heat a mass of building materials, rough roubell 
stones or pebbles, appears to us to have been the most rational and 
economical. This plan was tried by that eminent garden architect, John 
Hay of Edinburgh, so early as 1807, and has been subsequently improved 
upon in many of the gardens built by him since that period. When 
this mode of heating is intended to be apphed, the interior of the 
house, which is usually occupied with the bark bed, or pit, in which 
the plants are plunged, is filled to the thickness of from three to 
four feet, that is, to about the depth of the tan bed formerly used, 
with stones, broken to the size of from three to six inches in diameter. 
Through this mass the steam pipe passes, perforated with small holes 
along its two sides, for the escape of the steam, which thus enters and 
heats the mass of stones. When once heated, these will retain warrnth, 
sufficient for tropical plants, for twenty four hours in the coldest 
weather, and for two or three days in mild weather. From this it 
w^ould appear, that the steam has only to be let on at these periods ; 
at all other times it may be dispensed with or applied to other purposes. 
When the steam is let on to heat this mass of matter, it should be 
continued until it ceases to condense amongst the stones — a proof 
that they are heated to its own temperature. 

The superfluous steam of manufactories or engines might be economi- 
cally applied to heat plant houses upon this principle. And we are also 
of opinion that it might be applied in such situations to heat pits for 
pines, grapes, peaches, and strawberries, which would render these fruits 
as plentiful, and nearly as cheap at Christmas as at Midsummer. A 
very lengthened account, accompanied with several engravings, shomng 
the operation of heating upon Hay's principle, has been published in 
the Memoirs of the Caledonian Horticultural Society, to which those 
particularly interested are referred. Steam, for this purpose, has been 
turned into vaults under the plant house, but not with the satisfactory 



mm 



1 



STEAM CISTERNS. 



19 



result anticipated ; and others have filled the space with faggots, through 
which the steam circulated, hut with no better effect. Broken bricks we 
conclude to be the best material to use for this purpose, as they are 
better retainers of heat than hard stones, but these may be objected to on 
account of their being less durable. 

Steam has also been apphed to heat a large cistern of water, placed 
in the centre of the house, and under where the plants stand. To explain 
the operation of this process, let us suppose, that instead of a bark 
bed, a tank of the same length and breadth is substituted, and filled 
with water about a foot or eighteen inches deep. Through this volume 
of water a two inch steam pipe is made to enter at one end, and after 
proceeding to the extremity, is made to return again to the end at which 
it entered. The steam is let into these pipes about twice a day, and the 
temperature of the water is ascertained by leaving a small opening at each 
end, into which a thermometer can be introduced. These openings 
also answer another purpose, namely, admitting a portion of vapour 
into the house. Over such cisterns a flooring of bricks is formed, sup- 
ported upon cast iron bearers, on which the plants are set. Some have 
recommended stone pavement for this purpose, and others have used 
boarding, but neither of these are so well calculated for the transmission 
of heat, as twelve inch tiles. In Stothart's description of this kind 
of heating, pubhshed in the first volume of the Hort. Soc. Trans., second 
series, it is recommended, that over a flooring of tiles laid without 
mortar, a bed of broken stones or bricks, about a foot in thickness, 
should be laid, broken small, so that those towards the top may not be 
greater in diameter than about two inches, over this is placed a covering 
^ of coal ashes, into w^hich the plants are to be plunged. 

' As we do not advocate the principle of plunging plants in pots, unless 
under extraordinary circumstances, we confess ourselves at a loss to divine 
the utihty of either the stones or coal ashes in this operation. 

Steam has also been advantageously applied to heat w^ater contained in 
tubes laid through plant houses, in a similar manner to flues or hot water 
pipes. The rationale of this plan is to heat a volume of water by means 
of steam, to a certain temperature, which will, for a considerable length 
of time afterwards, continue to give out its heat in a very gradual and 
gentle manner. As this appears to us to be one of the most rational modes 
of applying steam as a medium to heating hot houses, we shall quote the 
following account of it from the last edition of the Encyclopedia of 
Gardening. It is well kno\^'n," says the intelligent compiler of tliat 
valuable work, that, by the common hot water apparatus, the heating 

c 2 



20 



ADVANTAGES OF STEAM. 



of an extensive and unconnected establishment of houses by one fire, is 
impracticable in most cases ; but, in the mode here represented, the ex- 
tent of apphcation is in a manner unlimited, whatever be the number or 
situation of the houses requiring heat. It likewise combines all the 
advantages of steam as a conductor of heat, with that of a bulk of water 
as a retainer. The water pipes are eight inches in diameter, and about 
twenty eight feet long. The steam pipe of one inch in diameter, entering 
at the centre of one end, and proceeding in rather an inclined direction to 
the other, is then returned, still inclining, and passed out at the bottom of 
the bore, immediately under the place where it entered. It is then 
formed into a siphon, about three feet deep, whence the condensed water 
is conveyed away. A smaller pipe is also connected ^ith the top of the 
large one, to receive the increase of water by expansion when heated, 
which, as the large pipe cools, retm^ns into it again." Under the line of 
these tubes is a hollow flue or air chamber, and over this is another flue 
or chamber, in which the water pipes lie. " The air being admitted from 
the air chamber underneath, through an opening extending the whole 
length of the pipes, and passing through the upper chamber on ea<3h side 
of the pipes, is discharged through the grating" in the floor "through the 
house. Shallow cisterns are connected with the upper part of the pipes, 
about eighteen'^ inches from each other, by means of hollow screws, which 
admit the water to pass to and fro reciprocally; the capacity of the 
cistern is more than sufficient to receive the increased bulk of the water, 
which expands when heated, and returns again into the pipes as the water 
cools." The du'ection of the pipes upon this principle is similar to 
the generahty of hot water pipes, viz., passing along the front of the 
house, turning round at the ends, and continuing along parallel to 
the back wall. " The external diameter of the front pipes is thirteen 
inches, and of the back pipes ten inches and a half; each set of pipes is 
divided in the middle of their length, except that the nearest dirision of 
the front pipes return about half way round, the end being in length more 
than sixty feet. These water pipes have one inch and a quarter steam 
pipe, extending in them their whole length, and returning again, preserv- 
ing a regular inclination throughout. The back pipes have steam pipes 
one inch in diameter, passing through them in a similar way, and the 
feeding pipes are so arranged that each di^dsion may be heated separately, 
or in conjunction mth the rest. Another advantage attending this mode 
of applying heat is, that as no returning pipes are necessary as in the 
common hot water apparatus, the bulk of water is doubled, with the ^ame 
extent of heating surface, and the returning power of the apparatus is 



ADVAXTAGES OF STEAM. 21 

doubled accordingly. The cisterns are farther semceable in regulating 
the humidity of the house, which can be done with the greatest accuracy 
by attending to the covers." 

Several other modes of heating by steam could be mentioned, but as 
they appear to us to possess no particular merit over those already noticed, 
we think it supei^uous to allude to them. The most complete and 
scientific steam apparatus hitherto erected in this country for heating 
plant houses, is that of his Grace the Duke of Northumberland, at Sion 
House ; this was erected entirely imder the superintendence of the late 
^Ir, Tredgold, a civil engineer of great professional attainments, who was 
cut off in the prime of life, a loss to all who had the pleasiu-e of his 
acquaintance, as well as to science. 



22 



HOT WATER APPARATUS. 

Economy and simplicity in all improvements connected with domestic 
or horticultm:al affairs ought to claim om* particular attention, and of all 
the improvements of which late years have heen so productive, we know 
none of greater importance than that of heating by means of hot water. 

" Neither the capahiUties,'' says Mr. Hood, in his excellent treatise, of 
this method of warming, nor the various useful purposes to which it is 
applicable, are at present fully appreciated. There are no buildings, how- 
ever large, to which it cannot be advantageously adapted, nor any that 
present insurmountable difficulties in its practical application. It is an in- 
vention yet only in its infancy, but which gives promise of a maturity 
that will confer the greatest advantages where its employment is the most 
extensive." 

It appears, from undoubted authority, that the idea of heating by this 
means was, to a certain extent, understood and applied in France, prior to 
1777, by M. Bonnemain, a physician of some eminence, as appears from the 
articles Assainissement, ChaleuVj Incubation, in the Dictionnaire Technolo- 
gique. Bonnemain's attention seems to have been drawn to this mode of 
attaining a steady and moderate degree of heat, with a view to apply it to 
the process of hatching chickens, a profession he carried on very success- 
fully for some years in the neighbourhood of Paris, and there is little doubt 
but that he took the idea from an art long practised in Egypt of hatching 
chickens in ovens built for that purpose. His mode of hatching chickens 
by the aid of hot water is described in GiWs Technological Repository for 
February, 1828. M. Chopineau is stated to have employed hot water for a 
similar purpose, but at what period is not stated, either in the Nouveau 
Cours Agriculture, or The Encyclopedic Methodique, in both of which 
works his process is described. 

M. Bonnemain certainly applied hot water to the heating of stoves and 
greenhouses ; but whether with complete success or not, we have no 
positive record. In the year 1799, we learn from GilVs Technological Re- 
pository, that Mr. R. Weston purposed to apply heat to stoves by this 
means ; but it does not appear that any progress was made from his 
suggestions. 

The Marquis de Chabannes, according to the preface to an edition of his 
work, dated 1818, arrived in this country in the year 1787. In 181 4, he says 
" the idea first struck him of constructing his caloriferae or hot air stove ; 
and from what we can comprehend from his rambling and flighty work, it 



HOT WATER APPARATUS. 



23 



was not till a year or two afterwards, that he applied himself to the 
system of heating rooms, and afterwards hot houses, by means of hot 
water. That the Marquis, in theory, understood the principle of chculat- 
ing hot water in tubes, the following quotation from his treatise will 
clearly shew. " The most perfect definition I can give of the circulation 
of hot water," he says, " is by comparing the boiler to the human heart, 
and the effect of caloric upon liquids, to the circulation of blood in our 
veins. The fire is the power which gives motion to the water, as the 
admission of oxygen into our lungs causes the circulation of our blood. 
A pipe is placed at the top, which may have any length or winding, but 
must finally return to the bottom of the boiler. The caloric which passes 
into the Mquid, rises to the upper pipe and communicates itself to the 
liquid in it, which loses that heat as it flows through the pores of the 
metal, or a reservoir which may be placed in its passage for the purpose 
of extracting it, becomes gradually cooler, and in that state pressing on 
the rarified pipe which issues from the top of the boiler, re-enters at the 
bottom in proportion to what goes out above, thus causing a continual 
circulation, and the liquid coming in contact with the fire at a colder tem- 
perature, (and besides with friction), extracts a still greater portion of 
caloric." Whether he was the inventor of the plan he lays down, however, 
does not so clearly appear. Our opinion is, that he had no share in 
the invention, but only acted upon the suggestions thrown out by Bonne- 
main and others ; for we find by the following passage translated from 
Encyclopedie Metliodique, that Bosc vdtnessed some experiments in 1816, 
or before that period. I witnessed," he says, some trials made in the 
gardens of the Museum, of heating the hot houses by means of copper 
pipes filled with hot water incessantly renewed. But that plan was given 
up, because the heat was found, in all weathers, too equal in degree, and 
too weak during frosty weather." So it would appear, that in France at 
least, the theory had been for some time known, and it is not improbable 
that Chabannes, who was httle better than an adventm-er, took the credit 
of all he had learned in France to himself. 

It also appears, that however he might understand the theory, in its ap- 
plication he was not so successful ; for with all the advantages attending 
so important a discovery, and the great pains he took to make his theoiy 
known to the public, it remained almost unknown until about the year 
1822, when it was brought most completely into practical operation by 
Wilham Atkinson, Esq., in his hot houses at Grove End, Paddington, and 
afterwards in several gardens in various parts of England, under his imme- 
diate inspection. Mr. Atkinson's original apparatus consisted in connecting 



24 



HOT WATER APPARATUS. 



a boiler, as represented in the accompanying engraving, with a fire l^eneath 
it, ^^ith a reservoir, by means of two iron pipes, the top one to carr}^ the 
hot water to the reservoir, the other to carry the cokl w^ter back again 
to the boiler. A great deal has been also said of the discoveries of the 




late Zvlr. Anthony Bacon, in regard to hot water, as ai)phed to hot houses, 
We know, upon unquestionable authority, that Mr. Bacon did not 
know of, nor did he believe in the principle of circulation, until it was ex- 
plained to him by Mr. Atkinson. We made a journey, in 1828, to Mr. 
Bacon's gardens at Abearnen, in Glamorganshu'e, for the express purpose 
of seeing his operations, and there saw his original apparatus, which he 
never could bring into any degree of useful action. His latest improve- 
ments were to be seen in a greenhouse attached to his mansion, and we 
had the authority of his gardener (who appeared to be a sensible well in- 
formed man), for stating that they were so defective, as to be incapable of 
resisting the frost, although there was at the time (November) a fire under 
the boiler which consum.ed nearly a quarter of a ton of coals daily. 




Mr. Bacon's first apparatus consisted simply of a piece of large cast 
iron pipe, closed at both ends, about tT\'elve feet long, as represented in the 
accompanying diagram, with an open tube near one end for the purpose 
of supplying it with water. The fire was applied under one end of the 
tube, which, presenting so small a surface to its action, was long in 



:viR. tredc-old's theory. 



25 



healdng, and tlie waste of fuel enormous. AYhen it did become lieated 
so as to boil, the vrater flowed over at the top of the open tube. 
Finding that this plan did not answer liis expectations, Mr. Bacon had a 
tin model made with boiler and reseiwok, as in the orchnary one of the pre- 
sent day, but with only one pipe ; and so pertinaciously did he adhere to 
his favourite theoiy that, till he saw rslr. Atkinson's models in operation 
at Grove End, he would not behevebut that every useful pm-]^)0se would be 
effected by one pipe only. 

^ye have been led into this sHglit chgi'ession, because we know the pains 
that has been taken to deprive 1\h\ Atkinson of the merit of bringing this 
mode of heating into practice, and to ch^ide the merit between the ^larquis 
de Chabannes and Tvlr. Eacon, neither the one nor the other having been 
able to apply it to the purposes to which it is now so generally apphed. 
The former, as we have aheady stated, acted upon the cUscover^- of Bon- 
nemain and others, and the latrer neither knew its theory nor apphcarion. 

The most scientific, and at the same time the most clear and compre- 
hensive explanation of the principles of heating by hot water hitherto 
pubhshed, is in a communication to the Homcultural Society, and pubhshed 
in thek Transactions, Vol. TIL, by the late 'Mr. Tredgold the ci^il engineer, 
which we regi'et that our hniiis v.ill not admit of giving at length. 
The following quotations from that excellent paper will be found useful. 

^' In order to develope the principles,'' says 'Mi. Tredgold, on which 
a hot water apparatus acts, we may select the simple case of two vessels 
placed on a horizontal plain, with two pipes to connect them, the vessels 
being open at the top, and the one pipe connecting the lower parts of the 
vessels and the other their upper paits. 




If the vessels and pipes be fiUed with water, and heat be applied to 
the vessel A, the eflect of heat will expand the water in the vessel A, and 
its siuface will, in consequence, rise to a higher level (a), the former 
general level sm-face being b h. The density of the fluid in the vessel A 
\viil also decrease in consequence of its expansion ; but as soon as the 



26 



HOT WATER APPARATUS. 



column (c d) of fluid above the centre of the upper pipe is of a greater 
weight than the column f e above that centre, motion will commence 
along the upper pipe fi'om A to B, and the change this motion produces 
in the equilibrium of the fluid, will cause a corresponding motion in the 
lower pipe from B to A, and in short pipes the motion will obviously con- 
tinue till the temperatui'e be nearly the same in both vessels, or if the 
water be made to boil in A, it may also be boiling hot in B, because the 
ebulhtion in A ^ill assist the motion." 

Here Mr. Tredgold goes at some length into an investigation of some of 
the most impoitant points relating to motion that requires attention in prac- 
tice, wliich want of space compels us to pass over. We cannot, how- 
ever, refi'ain from making the following quotations : From the common 
principles of hydi'ostatics and the equations we have obtained,'' says !Mr. 
Tredgold, the following practical deductions may be derived. 

" 1st. The more expansible tlie hquid is, by a given change of tem- 
peratiu'e, the greater v^ill be the velocity. 

2ud. All other things being the same, the velocity will be increased in 
proportion to the square root of the depth of the boiler, therefore, in a 
boiler four times as deep, the velocity' v^iU be doubled. 

" 3rd. If there be sufficient service of pipe for the object required, a 
reservoir is not necessaiy to the motion of the water : a simple bent pipe as 
^in the annexed chagram, being all that is essential to motion ; the reservoir 
is only to receive a hot mass of water to maintain the heat after the fire 
has gone out. 




'''4th. If a boiler has sufficient suiface to receive the effect of the fire, 
and the whole apparatus contains as much water as will convey the heat 
from the lire to the heating siutace in the time coiTesponding to its 
velocity, its capacity need not be fiu'ther increased, except as a reservoir 
of heat to act when the fire ceases to biu'n. 

5th. Where heat is required only dming the action of the fire, a large 
surface in proportion to its capacity' may be used with advantage, to give 



MR. thedgold's theory. 27 

olf heat over the descending pipe, as in the annexed figure ; cooling in this 
manner will increase the velocity. 




6th. The aperture of the upper pipe should not be more than about 
one inch below the surface of the water, or as much as prevents it draw- 
ing air, in an open boiler, but the lower it is below that, the less effect 
v^dll be obtained ; the lower pipe should enter the boiler w^here it has less 
tendency to cool and check the fluid rising to the upper pipe from the 
fire surface. 

7th. In a close boiler a pipe, at any distance from the boiler, may 
rise to any height and descend again, but it must neither rise twice nor dip 
after leaving the boiler ; when it is necessary to raise it, there should be an 
open pipe inserted at each extremity of the height of the rise ; advantage 
has been taken of this circumstance to avoid door ways, as in the annexed 
diagram. 




" 8th. A certain quantity of motion woidd be obtained by a single 
horizontal pipe between any points except the bottoms of the vessels ; but 



28 



HOT WATER APPARATUS. 



the nearer to the surface the more motion will be obtained, and with one 
pipe there must be a double current in it." This was the principle con- 
tended "for by the late Mr. Bacon, who mistook the double cmrent, 
that is, the hot water flowing along the top part of the pipe and the 
colder retui'ning to the boiler near its lower side, and calculated that 
water as a conductor of heat, by one particle giving off its heat to the 
next, it would in time heat the whole column contained in the pipes, which 
no doubt it would, but not with rapidity. This doctrine is contrary to 
the rules laid down by the late Count Romford, who considered water as 
a nonconductor ; but the experiments of Dr. Thompson, Mr. Nicholson 
and others have proved to the contrary'. 

" 9th. The retarding effect of friction is directly as the length, and 
inversely as the diameter of the pipes ; it is also increased by every bend 
and angle in the pipes." 

The thirteenth paragraph of this excellent paper thus proceeds : 
13th. Having considered the circumstance necessary to the motion of 
the fluid in pipes, the next inquiry must be the quantity of heat a Hquid 
can convey in a given time, and the quantity of surface required to com- 
municate it to the air of the house. It is a fact not so generally known 
as it ought to be, that if we communicate a certain quantity of heat to a 
liquid, it will give out the same quantity again in coohng to its former 
temperature, less nor more it cannot afford. It is equally true, that with 
the same temperatures, equal and like smfaces give off equal quantities of 
heat to air, and consequently, the quantities of heat exchanged under 
given circumstances, are measurable quantities, and this subtile element is 
brought within the domain of science." 

The conclusions arrived at by ^Ir. Tredgold on this subject are, that for 
the generality of hot houses, double the number of feet contained in the 
area of the surface of glass will be equal to the number of cubit feet of 
air, which that surface (that is, the sm-face of pipes,) should heat per 
minute when in full action ; but the surface of the apparatus will give off 
heat of different degrees of temperatiure according to the materials they 
are formed of and the different liquids they are charged with. Thus 
thirty two and a half feet of pipe charged with linseed oil, will heat a 
space equal to that heated by one hundred and six feet when brine is 
employed, or one hundred and sixteen feet when clear water is used. The 
advantage, therefore, of using a fluid capable of bearing a high temperature 
vvithout boning is very considerable in lessening the quantity of surface 
of pipe required, but oil is of too inflamable a nature to be used for general 
purposes with safety. And in regard to the materials the pipes are 



MR. hood's theory. 



29 



formed of, it appears that earth enware, or bright tinned iron pipe require 
to be of greater size than cast ii'on ones, to produce a hke effect. 

The cause of the circulation of hot ^ater in pipes has been yariously 
explained, and the theory laid down by Tredgold, before alluded to, was 
considered the most rational and complete. The correctness of that 
opinion has, however, lately been called in question by Mr. Kood, who 
obsers'es that the theory of Tredgold Tvill not account for the cumulation 
of water, imder all ckcumstances, and ever}' yariety of form of the ap- 
paratus ; and as the cause of motion must be the same in all cases, 
any explanation which will not apply universally must necessarily be 
erroneous. 




In order to explain his theory ]\Ir. Hood proceeds, let ns suppose 
heat to be apphed to the boiler A," in the accompan^-ing diagram. " A 
dilatation of the volume of the water takes place, and it becomes Hghter ; 
the heated particles rising upwards through the colder ones, which sink 
to the bottom by their greater specific gra^-ity, and they in their turn 
become heated and expanded hke the others. This intestine motion con- 
tinues imtil all the particles become equally heated, and have received as 
much heat as the fuel can impart to them. But as soon as the water in 
the boiler begins thus to acquire heat, and to become hghter than that in 
the opposite vessel B, the water in the lower horizontal pipe d, is pressed 
with a greater weight at z than at y, and it therefore moves towards 
A with a velocity and force equal to the difference in pressm-e at the 
two points y and z. The water in the upper part of the vessel B would 
now assume a lower level, were it not that the pipe c furnishes a fresh 
supply of water from the boiler to replenish the deficiency. By means of 
this unequal pressiure on the lower pipe, the water is forced to circulate 
through the apparatus, and it continues to do so as long as the water in 
B is colder, and therefore heavier, than that which is in the boiler ; and 
as the water in the pipes is constantly parting mth its heat, both by 
radiation and conduction, while that in the boiler is as continually re- 
ceiwlng additional heat from the fire, an equahty of temperatm'e can never 
occur, or else f it did, the circulation would cease." 



30 



HOT WATER APPARATUS. 



We see, then," says Mr. Hood, " that the cause of the circulation is 
the unequal pressure on the lower pipe of the apparatus, and that it is 
not the result of an alteration which takes place in the level of the water, 

<is has been erroneously supposed." 




31 



HOT ^yATER BOILERS. 

We consider that to arrange a complete hot water apparatus, some 
attention ought to be paid to adapt the boiler to the circumstances of the 
case. This we beUeve has been too httle attended to, and of course some 
of the features attending heating by this means may be safely attributed 
to a disregard to some fixed principle in this respect. On this subject 
Mr. Hood, already quoted, obsei-ves, In adapting the boiler to a hot 
water apparatus, it is not necessary, as is the case with a steam boiler, to 
have its capacity exactly proportional to that of the total quantity of pipe 
which is attached to it ; on the contrary, it is sometimes desirable even 
to invert this order, and to attach a boiler of small capacity to pipes of 
large size. It is not however meant, in recommending a boiler of small 
capacity, to propose also that it should be of small superficies ; for it is 
indispensable that it should present a large sm-face to the fire, because, 
in every case, the larger the smface on which the fire acts, the greater 
will be the economy of fuel, and therefore, the greater will be the effect of 
the apparatus. 

The following figm'es of boilers are those in common use, and each has 
of course its pecuhai' advantages and defects. 




Figure 1 is the form first used by Mr. Atldnson, and in many cases 
such a form is still used by that gentleman and by others. Its advantages, 
like those of 2 and 3, are, that when the water in them is once heated, 
they retain their heat longer. Their disadvantages, on the other hand, 
are, that although it is true in fact that such boilers retain their heat 
longer than some others do, yet that is not a sufiicient reason for their 



32 



HOT WATER APPARATUS. 



adoption, for the same effect can be accomplished hy using larger sized 
pipes, or by having a reservoir at one end of the apparatus so contrived, 
by being enclosed in brick v\-ork or other non-conducting materials, as 
vdll prevent such reserv oir from giving off much of its heat by radiation, 
and the heat so retained in such reservoir will give out its heat to the 
pipes as the heat entering them from the boiler decreases. Or if the 
communication between such a reservoir and the pipes be cut off by a 
stop cock, the maximum temperature can be attained in the pipes in a 
much shorter period than if the whole volume of water had been con- 
tained in the boiler. 

The advantages of small boilers, such as Nos. 4, 5, 6, and 7, and also 
of the annexed fig., providing that an extreme be not fallen into, is, that 



boilers containing a small quantity of water become sooner heated, 
require less consumption of fuel, and the rapidity of the circidation is 
more rapid from them than in others. 

There is," says Mr. Hood, no advantage whatever gained by 
using a boiler which contains a large quantity of water ; for as the lower 
pipe brings in a fresh supply of water as rapidly as the top pipe carries 
the hot water off^ the boiler is kept always absolutely full." 

The capacity of the boiler and its operations depends a great deal on 
the extent of its sm-face exposed to the action of the fii'e, and this surface 
should in all cases be proportioned to the quantity of pipe intended to be 
heated by it. To ascertain this, the following simple data has been laid 
down by Mr. Hood, reckoning the smface which a steam boiler exposes 
to the fire, at fom' square feet for each cubic foot of water evaporated per 
horn', and calculating the latent heat of steam at one thousand degrees, 
we shall find that the same extent of boiler surface which wo tdd evaporate 





ME. hood's theory. 



33 



a cubic foot of water, of the temperauu-e of fifty two degrees, into stearo, 
of which the tension is equal to oiu' atmosphere, would supply the 
requisite heat to two hundi'ed and thii-ty two feet of pipe, four inches in 
diameter, when the temperatiu'e is to be kept ai one hundred and forty 
degrees above that of the smTounding air. The following calcidations 
showing the surface which a boiler for a hot water apparatus ought to 
expose to the fii'e, will be found useful.'' 



Surface of Boiler 



exposed to the fire. 


4-in. Pipe. 


3-in. Pipe. 


2-in. Pipe. 


3i square 


feet wiUheat 200 feet 


or 266 feet 


or 400 feet 


H 


300 


400 


600 


7 


400 


533 


800 


Si .. 


500 


666 


1000 


12 


700 


933 


1400 


17 


1000 


1333 


2000 



" A small apparauis ought, perhaps, to have rather more surface of 
boiler, in proportion to the length of the pipe, than a lai'ger one ; as the 
fire is less intense, and bm-ns to less advantage in a small than in a large 
fmnace. It depends, however, upon a variety of circumstances whether it 
will be expedient to increase the quantity of pipe in propoiTion to the 
surface of the boiler, beyond what is here stated ; for although many 
causes tend to modify the efiect, the above calculation will be found a 
good average proportion, under ordinaiy chcumstances. The effect de- 
pends greatly upon the quality of the coals, the height of the chimney, 
the rapidity of the ch-aught, the construction of the fiumace, and many 
other particulars ; but it will always befoimd more economical, as regards 
the consimiption of fuel, to work with a larger smtace of boiler at a 
moderate heat, than to keep the boiler at its maximum temperature." 

As the data from wliich the above calculations are made assumes the 
difference between the temperatiu'e of the pipe and the space to be 
heated to be one hundred and forty degrees, the pipe being two himdred 
degrees and the au* sixty degrees,) it consequently follows that if the 
temperature be reduced either by a dimimition of heat in the apparatus, 
or by the ak in the space to be heated being higher, then, the same surface 
of boiler will be enough for a greater length of pipe. For example, if the 
chfference of temperature between the water and th3 air be more than 
one hundi'ed and twenty degrees, then the same smface will heat one 
sixth more length of pipe, or if the difference of these temperatvires do 
not exceed one hundred degrees, that one third more length of pipe may 
be heated by the same means. 



34 



HOT WATER APPARxlTUS. 



The only other improvement in heating houses to which we shall now 
call attention, is a boiler invented by ^Ir. Thomson of the Sion nursery at 
Norwood. This gentleman states in a communication prepared for this 
work, that having devoted considerable attention to this subject, and 
tried many kinds of boilers, he turned his attention to forming one that 
would combine the various requisite qualities of economy of fuel, with a 
sufficient degree of heat, and which would not involve such constant 
attention as the boilers in common use require. 

The advantages of the present invention consists in the great surface the 
boiler presents to the action of the heat, and the introduction of a 
check draft and flange filled with water to divide the flues. Another and 
a very important advantage is, that between the double doors and the bars 
of the furnace, there is a piece of iron placed, one foot three inches long, 
by one foot Tvide, which acts as a carbonizing plate, so that when the fire 
begins to burn strong enough to heat the iron, nearly the whole of the 
smoke is consumed. 




Front Elevation. 



But our description will, be better understood by reference to the figures, 
the first of which represents the front elevation of the apparatus, the various 
parts of which are indicated by reference letters in the accompanpng 
engravings. 




Longitudinal Section. 

D 2 



36 



HOT WATER APPARATUS. 



The second figure represents a transverse section across the boiler and 
furnace, A being the furnace in which the fuel is placed, which is entirely 
siuTounded with the boiler, except on the under side. B is a check draft, 
over which the heat, flame, and smoke pass to a small aperture C, in the 
back of the boilers, which is represented in figure 3, communicating with 
the flues D D, which surround the louver part ; these flues, D D, unite 
and pass through an opening (E, figure 1) in the flange, over the furnace 
door to the flue F F, represented in figure 3 ; this flue surrounds the 
upper part, and terminates at the brick flue G, which is furnished -^ith a 
damper to regulate the draft, and there wUl scarcely be a particle of heat 
lost by continuing this flue to the most distant part of the bmlding. 

The boiler H in figure 4, is in the form of an egg. It is represented in 
the plan with a chamber all round, connected by the check-draft B, and 
suiTOimded with the flange I fig. 1, which divides the upper and lower flues. 
K is a cyhndrical chamber on the top of the boiler, on which is the iron cap I 
fig. 1, either fixed or moveable, as may be required ; M M are the two outlet 




Gronnd Plan of the Faruace and Boiler. 



pipes, communicating with the upper part of the boiler, through which 
the hot water circulates. After passing to the outside of the brick work, 
the pipes are ramified into as many branches as may be reqmi'ed ; N N 
are the two retm-n pipes which enter the lower pait of the boiler ; is 
the ash pit, with a door, Q, to regulate the di'aft. The fomace has double 



HOT WATER APPARATUS. 



37 



doors, P, to exclude the external air. The boilers represented in these 
four figures are intended for houses of moderate dimensions, and the 
manufacturer states them to be the most economical yet made. 




Section of a Circular Boiler. 



Figure 5 represents the section of a circular boiler, with an additional 
chamber and flue surrounding the lower part ; this boiler is circular, and 
only two feet eight inches in diameter across the bottom, in the clear of 
the brick work, and three feet high. During each winter," says Mr. 
Thomson, I made use of this boiler, with which I heated four himdred 
and forty eight feet of three and four inch pipe, which warmed two large 
greenhouses or stoves, sixty feet by sixteen, and sixty feet by fourteen, 
together with two pits sixty feet by eight, and sixty feet by six. The 
whole were kept up at their respective temperatures during the severest 
part of last winter without any difficulty, the only fuel required being 
cinders or very small coke, ^ith the refuse cuttings fi'om the nurser^^ and 
at no time did it requu'e more than four baskets of such fuel in the twenty 
four hours," 



38 



HOT WATER APPARATUS. 



Having devoted considerable time and attention to heating houses with 
hot water, and watching the thermometer, both out of doors and in the 
house, for several years, but more particularly during the last and present 
year, and by accurate calculations of the number of feet of surface glass 
exposed to the weather," Mr. Thompson adds, " I am enabled to estimate 
very correctly the number of feet of surface of pipe required to command, 
with all extremes of weather, any specified degree of heat, either in the 
stove or greenhouse : the want of proper attention to this highly important 
part, namely, calculating the radiating surface of glass, and then esti- 
mating the proper quantity of pipe necessary to produce certain degrees 
of heat in all weathers, is the cause of many of the complaints against the 
system of heating by means of hot water.'' 



FURNACES ADAPTED FOR HOT WATER BOILERS. 

As a much more moderate and uniform heat is required for the proper 
working of a hot water boiler, than for many other purposes — the steam 
engine for example — a furnace, so constructed that a moderate heat 
may be obtained, and by which combustion may go on slowly, is all that 
is required. 

The following excellent directions on this subject, by Mr. Hood, are 
worth attention. " The heat should be confined, as much as possible, 
v^ithin the furnace, by contracting the farther end of it, at the part 
called the throat, so as to allow only a small space for the smoke 
and inflamed gases to pass out. The only entrance fos the air should 
be through the bars of the grate, and the heated gaseous matter will 
then pass directly upward to the bottom of the boiler, which will act 
as a reverberatory, and cause a more perfect combustion of the fuel 
than would otherwise take place. The hghtness of the heated gaseous 
matter causes it to ascend the flue, forcing its passage through the throat 
of the furnace with a velocity proportional to the smallness of the pas- 
sage, the verticle height of the chimney, and the levity of the gases arising 
frcHii their expansion by the heat of the furnace." 

" In this arrangement the whole of the air which supports the com- 
bustion passes through the fire below, and any air admitted at the furnace 
door, between the fuel and the boiler, reduces the intensity of the heat." 
We ought here to observe that the most extravagant waste of fuel arises 
from air being admitted in this manner, either from improper fm-nace doors 
or from their being left open, or partially so, all cases of the most common 



MR. hood's CALCULATIOXS. 



39 



occun'ences. It slioiild be a rule from TvMch vre know of only one excep- 
tion, that no air should be admited into the furnace, beyond that which is 
absolutely necessary to cause and to maintain combustion, and even that 
quantity should be made to enter the furnace at the bottom, and to pass 
through the volume of fuel undergoing combustion. 

The soUtary exception above alluded to is in the case of coal being used, 
which emits a more than usual quantity of flame, as some of the Stafford- 
shire and most of the Scotch coal do. In such cases air may be advan- 
tageously admitted over the fuel and will aid the more perfect combus- 
tion of the gaseous matter with which such coal is charged. 

The following table and practical remarks have been laid down by Hood. 
'^The quantity of coal which is required to be burnt in each particular 
furnace must determine the area of the bars, and as this has been 
ascertained experimentally for steam boilers it is merely necessary to 
reduce it to a standard suitable for a hot water boiler. This data being 
obtained, there will be no difficulty in determiniug the proper size of furnaces, 
which is, we think, of much importance. Supposing the ordinary kind 
of furnace bars to afford about thirty inches of opening for the air in each 
square foot of surface, measured as the bars are placed in the furnace, and 
allowing half inch openings between the bars, when the bars themselves 
are about one inch and a half wide, then the relative proportions bet^ een 
the area of the bars and the length of the pipe should be as follows — 



Area of Bars, 


4-in. Pipe. 


3-in. Pipe. 


2-in. Pipe 


75 square inches wiU supply 150 feet 


or 200 feet 


or 300 feet 


100 


200 


266 


400 


150 .. 


300 


400 


600 


200 


400 


533 


800 


250 


500 


666 


1000 


300 


600 


800 


1200 


400 


800 


1066 


1600 


500 


1000 


1333 


2000 



Thus suppose there are sis hundred feet of pipe, four inches in 
diameter, in an apparatus, then the area of bars should be three himdred 
squai'e inches, so that thirteen inches in breadth and twenty three in 
length win give the requisite quantity of surface ; but when it is required 
to obtain the greatest heat in the shortest time, the area of the bars 
should be increased, so that a larger fire may be produced." 

" In order to make the fire bm'n a long time without attention," a \ery 
important consideration, and probably also to a greater extent than is 
usually thought in the economy of fuel, " the furnace shoidd extend beyond 



40 



HOT TVATER APPARATUS. 



the bars both in length and breadth, and the coals which are placed on 
this blank part of the furnace, in consequence of recei^ing no air from 
below, -will burn very slowly, and will only enter into complete combustion 
when the coal which hes directly on the bars have burned away." 

It has been laid down as an invariable rule by a very competent judge, 
that no pipes should be used for this purpose of a greater diameter than 
four inches, nor less than three inches, unless in the case of pits or any 
small houses, when a very moderate temperature is to be kept up; in such 
a case, pipes of less diameter may be used. Larger pipes will of course, 
when once heated, continue to give out their heat longer than small ones, 
after the fire is extinguished, but they require an equal length of time 
and consumption of fuel to heat them. Besides, the friction is much 
greater in small pipes than in large ones, arising from the circumstance of 
the increased surface with which a given quantity of water comes in contact 
when passing through a smaU pipe, and also the greater velocit}- with 
which the circulation goes on. 

Pipes should be of a uniform size throughout their whole length, unless 
circumstances occur subjecting that rule to deviation ; this will some- 
times occur when two or more departments are to be heated from the same 
boiler, and these are at a distance from each other. In such cases, the 
pipe, which is merely intended to connect the more distant parts, may be 
smaller in diameter, as for example, if a boiler were to be placed equi- 
distant from four pits, a smaller pipe might be laid under ground, or 
otherwise, to convey the water to the pipe within the pit, which latter 
is to give off heat ; the smaller pipe from the increased velocity of the 
water passing through it, would loose but httle of its heat during its 
passage. All alterations in the size of pipes, either by enlai'ging or con- 
tracting theu' diameter, effects the velocity of the circulation in a greater 
or less degi'ee. Yentmi, discovered that the velocity of a given quantity 
of water would be effected by enlargements in the pipes to the following 
extent. 

A straight pipe in 109 " 

A pipe T^-ith one enlai'gement required 147" 
„ three „ ,, „ . 192'' 
„ five „ „ „ 240" 

In regard to the quantity of pipe required to heat hot houses, ^Ir. 
Hood has laid down the following scale : — For greenhouses, conserva- 
tories, and such like buildings where the temperatm*e is required to 




ATKIXSON^S BOILER. 



41 



be kept at about sixty degrees, diyiding the cubit measurement of the 
building by thirt\' mil give the required quantity of pipe, and for forcing 
houses "where it is desii'ed to keep the temperature at seventy to seventy 
live degrees, we must divide the cubic measurement of the house by 
twenty, but if the temperature be required as high as seventy five degrees 
or eighty degrees, then we must divide by eighteen to obtain the number 
of feet of fom' inch pipe. If the pipes are to be three inches diameter, 
then we must add one thii*d to the quantity thus obtained, and if two inch 
pipes are to be used we must take double the length of four inch pipe." 



HOT WATER APPARATUS. 

Having thus far given a brief detail of the leading points in the theory 
and practice of heating by means of hot water, we shall now give as 
briefly as possible the essence of what we deem to be the best method 
recommended for use, and take them as near as possible in the order in 
which they stand as to priority. 







\ 




1 




1 \ 



Atkinson's original plan consisted in simply connecting the boiler «, 
with the reservoir I, by means of two horizontal tubes, and sometimes 
without a reservoir, as in figure 2, the uppermost intended for the heated 




water to flow through towards the reservoir, and the lower to conduct it, 
when cooled, back again to the boiler, entering it near the bottom. The 
boiler and reseiwoir had covers, which could be taken ofi" or put on at 
pleasure, the former being of wood, which, being a nonconductor of 
heat, prevented too great an escape of heat at the end, which naturally 
would be the warmest part of the house ; the latter was of cast iron, but 
was very seldom used. For all ordinary purposes this apparatus was found, 



42 



HOT WATER APPARATUS. 



when first erected, in 1822, to answer every useful end, and upon this 
ven; principle many are still erected. As this mode is only adapted to 
situations where the boiler and reservoir is upon a level, the same in- 
genious architect consti'ucted others with fixed covers, and also with a 
perpendicular pipe, elevated to the highest level to which the water was 
intended to he canied, and by these means he could cause the water to 
circulate to any required height. This he has exemplified in a very 
satisfactory manner at his mansion of Silvermeere, near Cobham, where 
the boiler is placed in a cellar, and the principal rooms and passages 
warmed by its means. 

It has been recommended, that in erecting this particular variety of 
apparatus, the lower or returning pipe should be incHned so as to 
allow a gradual fall of the water in its return to the boUer, This plan at 
first sight appears very plausible, but the principle of its action is, in fact, 
entirely erroneous, and appears to arise from considering the subject as a 
purely simple case of hydraulics, instead of the compound result of 
hydrodynamics. The experiments made by Hood led him to the con- 
dusion that there must, under aU cu'cumstances, be a positive loss of 
effect by inchning the pipe from the faither extremity' towards the boiler, 
as we have elsewhere shev\Ti. 

Messrs. Kewley and Fowler appears to have each invented about the 
same period what the former calls his siphon principle, and the latter his 
thermosiphon, which is in principle almost the same tlmig, and by means 
of which water can be earned in any direction. The former exhibited 
his apparatus in the nurser}- of the late Mr. Colveile, m 1826, and the 



c 3 




latter took out a patent in 1829. Nothing can act better than Kewley's 
siphon, and we believe that it is at present by far the most popular of all 
other modes. A glance at the annexed diagram will explain its form and 




KEWLEY AND FOWLER'S SIPHON. 



43 



principle. From nearly the top of the boiler, c, (which is without a cover) 
the upper leg of the siphon, ^, rises and proceeds to the extremit}- of the 
space to be heated ; through this upper pipe the hot water flows and 
returns by the lower leg and enters the boiler at the top, but is continued 
downwards to near the bottom of it. At the extremity of the pipe, as at 
c, a small hole is made in the tube, to which an air pump is apphed to 
empty it of air, and as this process goes on, the water flows into them 
and occupies the space. Next to Atkinson's original plan, this is the 
simplest in operation, but requires greater nicety in the erection, and 
those intending to adopt it cannot do better than employ the inyentor, 
who, besides being an honest and unassuming man, is a most ingenious 
and clever engineer. 

The thermosiphon will be readily understood by a reference to the 
annexed diagram, and is thus described in the Gardener's Magazine, 
vol. X., p. 453, after explaining the principle, which 
is by employing the power of the fluid in descending 
one leg of the siphon to draw up hot fluids in the 
other ; by this means, hot fluids will circulate from 
one boiler to another, or from one vessel to another, 
through pipes of various forms and lengths, Sup- 
posing the water of a uniform temperature in both 
legs of the siphon, a no circulation would take 
place ; but supposing it to cool sooner in the long 
leg a, than in the short leg 5, then the equihbrium 
would be destroyed, and the water in the long leg a, 
would descend and draw up hot water through the 
short leg b, and this circulation would continue as 
long as the water at c was maintained at a tem- 
perature above that of the surrounding atmosphere. 
We consider this method better adapted to the pur- 
pose of raising water to heat baths and dwelhng houses than that of 
hot houses, although, no doubt, it can be apphed to the latter purpose 
also. 

The next in order, we may place that of Mr. Week's, which is intended to 
cause the water to circulate below *the level of the boiler if required ; but 
for this purpose it is necessary to raise the water to a height above the level 
of the boiler equal to the distance which it is intended to sink it below that 
point. This may be done in any closed boiler, with a tube proceeding from its 
cover, or in any boiler of a height above the fire, equal to the depth below 




44 



HOT VTATER APPAR ATI'S, 



n 



o 

Q 



it, to which it is intended to circulate the water, and will be readily 
understood by a reference to the annexed diagram. 
In tliis figure c, is a section of the fire place, 
which, instead of having a common boiler over it, is 
surrounded by cast iron tubes. The uppermost of these 
tubes communicates, by means of the upright tube by 
with the open vessel e, and the lowermost is connected 
in a similar manner by means of the tube d, with one 
or any number of tubes under the level of the boiler 
at e. The uppermost of the tubes at e is connected 
by the tube /, with the open vessel c. Now, all these 
tubes being so connected as to admit of water circu- 
lating freely through them, when a fire is made in a, 
the heated water ascends by its refraction into the 
open vessel c, and its place in the tubes round the fire 
is supplied by the colder water from e through the 
heated water descending to supply its place from the 
open vessel e, by the tube/I The limits of the depth 
to which the water will circnlate below, is that of the 
height of the open vessel above. To produce this cir- 
culation, it is nor necessary that the water should boil, 
for as every heated particle will ascend to the open 
vessel c, its place must be supplied by a cold particle 
from d. VTlieii the fire is urged so as to raise the 
water in the open vessel nearly to the boiling point, the circulation goes 
on with the greatest rapidity. The substitution of tubes round the fire 
for a boiler over ir, is by no means necessaiy for the success of this plan, 
though by rubes rhe rapidiry of rhe circulation is greatly increased. Any 
close Hjoiler wirh rhe rube b attached to its cover, and communicating 
with an open vessel fixed at any height, such as c, having another tube 
similar to / fixed to ir, will circular e rhe heated water from snch vessel to 
a point below the borrom of rhe boiler, nearly equal to the balance of 
atmospheric pressure, or say. rhiiry feer below ir. 

The next in order of rime and celebrity which we think worth noticing 
here, is that of Perkin's. and consists in circulating water in hermetrically 
sealed tubes, and these of a veiy small size. This plan consists of a coil 
of wrought iron tubes about one inch in diameter, which serves the pur- 
pose of a boiler, the fire being made in the centre of the coil, not in 
immediate contact wirh them, but separated by brick work, over which 
the heat passes and circulates in the flue, which also contains the pipes. 



PERKIN^S BOILER. 



45 



From the end of the top course of pipes the water ascends into tubes 
arranged for its conduction through the house, and the same water, when 
it] has given out its heat in the course of its journey, re-enters the coil 
again by the lowest tier of pipes, and is in its turn heated to arise again, 
and so on in regular order. In order to guard against the pipes exploding, 
which they would be apt to do if filled quite full of water, on account of the 
expansion to which it is hable when heated, and the tubes being securely 
closed at the ends, the precaution is taken to fiU them only to a certain extent, 
and also by the use of an expansion tube, which allows of the expansion of 
the water in the way of high pressure steam. It would appear that this is the 
most powerfid of aU modes of heating by means of hot water, and that it 
may be applied to heat structures of a capacity which no other medium, 
steam only excepted, could accompUsh. The smaUness of the pipes admits 
of theii" being introduced into situations where the larger pipes of other 
engineers could not conyeniently be admitted, and as the velocity with 
which the water travels is so great, it may be carried to almost the same 
distance as steam. 

Apprehensions are entertained that the pipes used in this mode are habie 
to biurst from a variety of causes, but ^Ir. Perkins asserts that aU his 
tubes are now proved prior to beiug used, and capable of bearing three 
thousand pounds to the square inch, which appears sufficient allowance 
for extraordinary pressure, when we reflect that sixty pounds or seventy 
pounds is only necessary to be the resisting power when three hundred 
degrees of heat is required. 

A variety of other methods of heating by hot water have been pubhshed, 
but as there are none of them so effectual for general piu^oses as those above 
alluded to, we wiU now proceed to consider the merits of one or two 
modes adapted for particular circumstances. 

Busby's method of circulating water by the aid of machinery- is described 
in Repertory of Patent Inventions, Vol. IY.,p. 137, its principal difference 
from aU others being in its capabihty of circulating water by means of 
an apparatus which may be compared to the wheel of a winnowing machine, 
this is fixed within the boiler to a perpendicular axis, which must be 
placed exactly over the end of a pipe which reaches from the circiunference 
to the centre of the boiler. There is also a second pipe which reaches no 
farther than the circumference. These pipes are united at the end farthest 
from the fire, and may be made to descend or be carried to any distance and 
in any form. The boiler and pipes being filled ^ith water, the circidation 
commences in consequence of a rotatory motion being commimicated to 
it by the fan or circulator, wliich is made to revolve by the action of the 



46 



HOT T^'ATER APPARATTS, 



smoke and hot air in the cMnmey. similar to a common smoke jack ; the 
centrifugal force of tliis morion vrill so act against the fluid in the pipe 
terminatmg in the circumference, as to cause the water to rush down it 
while it draws it up the other. 

By this means either hot or cold water can be made to chculate, the 
circulation depending on the centrifugal force, and the mouth of one pipe, 
being in the centre of the boiler while the other is in the circmference, 
a greenhouse or stove, therefore, may be heated from a boUer placed over a 
common fire in a gaiTCt, and the water carried downwards to the pipes or 
reseiToir in the house. The singularity of this invention is the power 
it possesses of forcing hot water downwards, a result not anticipated, 
and also in the rapidity of the circulation which admits of tubes being 
used of much smaller size than usual, a matter of great consequence in 
some cases. 

Greenhouses, stoves, 6cc., are sometimes heated by the waste heat of 
domestic fu-es, and as we have already shown that hot water can be made 
to circulate either upwards, downwards, or horizontally by adopting some 
of the methods aheady detailed, it will be evident that any greenhouse, 
stove, plant verandahs, or other structm-e may be heated either from the 
kitchen, parlom-, or drawing room fire as may be most favom-able, without 
the leELSt inconvenience, and at scai'cely any additional expense. 



I 



i 








1 




1 

1 









The annexed figure shows a'fii'e place upon this principle, invented by the 
venerable curator of the Chelsea botanical garden, it consists of a grate sur- 
rounded by a boiler which fonns the back and sides of it. The fire is in- 
tended for the usual domestic purposes, and the water heated by it is carried 
tlu-ough the wall into the greenhouse behind, by means of a pipe which 
may be placed in the most convenient manner possible, according to the 
form, size, and chcumstances of the house. The water when cooled 
retm-ns again to the boiler by the lower pipe^ which enters at the opposite 




MAXAGEIVIEXT OF FUEXACES. 



47 



side. The boiler, or rather the grate, may be of any form desired, from 
that of the annexed figm^e to the most ornamental, only taking care that 
the parts round the fire be hollow so as to hold a sufficiency of "water. 
The water for the supply of the boiler may be apphed from -without by the 
aid of a small pipe and funnel. This plan would be admirably calculated 
for heating the verandahs and balconies in front of town residences, in 
which, dming summer, we see such a profusion of flowering plants, but 
which, in winter, are entirely empt\' or occupied with a few of the hardiest 
evergreens. If such balconies were fmnished with glass sashes, which 
could be done at Httle expense, and these sashes fitted in about the end 
of October, any greenhouse plant might be kept in a good' state of pre- 
servation dming winter, and a sufficiency of heat admitted to them from 
the di'awing room fire by the means just recommended. 

Of all these methods of heating by means of hot water, our opinion is 
briefly thus : — that for ordinary purposes in greenhouses and stoves, 
when the level chculation can be adopted, Atkinson's original method 
is the best, and although, perhaps, not the cheapest in the first erection, is 
unquestionably so in the end. 

When the circulation is to be carried over doors, or under foot paths, 
or indeed out of a regular level, Kewley's siphon system is the most to be 
preferred. 

And when the greatest possible degi'ee of heat is required and only a 
Umited space for the apparatus, that of Perkin's is certainly the best. 

For heating small greenhouses, balconies, &c., from the fii-e used for 
other domestic purposes, that of curator Anderson's is, in our opinion, the 
most simple and efficient one. 

By any of these four methods a house, however situated, can be com- 
pletely and economically heated. We have elsewhere stated om* opinion, 
that for the ordinary- piurposes of greenhouses , it is scarcely worth while 
erecting hot water apparatus at all, where smoke flues can be built cheaper 
and without interfeiing with the internal arrangements of the house. 
But for stoves and other forcing houses, where a higher degree of tem- 
perature is required for three parts of the year, there can be no doubt of 
the superiority of hot water over every other mode, both as regards 
economy and convenience. 

DIRECTIOXS FOR THE MANAGEMENT OP HOT HOUSE FURNACES. 

The following excellent directions for the management of hot house 
fire places, that are constructed with double doors and ash pit registers, 
was drawn up some yeai's ago by that eminent architect, W. Atkuison, Esq. 



48 



FURNACES. 



and printed for private distribution by that gentleman, and afterwards 
published in the Hurt. Trans. The directions are so valuable, that vre 
will give the contents of that paper at length. 

Wlien the fire is first lighted, the ash pit door may be left open imtil 
the fuel be properly kindled ; the door should then be shut close, lea^^ng 
the brass register so far open as to allow sufficient air to blow the fire, but 
not more than is absolutely necessary to make it burn well, not \'iolently, 
nor with a strong draught, for if more air be admitted than is required for 
a moderate brisk fire, it occasions a great waste of fuel, without increasing 
the heat. 

" The fire place door must at all times be kept shut, and the sloping 
part of the iron frame of the door must be kept clear of coals, so as not 
to prevent the door from latching. No air must be let in at the door at 
any time, except when it cannot be avoided in feeding the fire. Any cold 
air that may get in at the fire place door is apt to rush over the fire into 
the flue vdthout being heated, and that air tends to cool the flue, instead 
pf heating it. Therefore, all the air that is necessary for blowing the fire 
must be admitted at the ash pit register, in order that it may get heated in 
passing through the fire to the flue. 

" It is impossible to determine the exact opening necessary to be left in 
the ash pit register to admit sufficient air, as that greatly depends upon the 
goodness and length of the flue, and the height of the chimney, ^^llen a 
flue is once properly heated, the draught becomes stronger, and then a less 
opening in the register is sufficient to supply the fire vdth air. In this 
state about half an inch opening in the register is generally sufficient, and 
it should be shut quite close if it be found that the fire ^vill burn with it 
in that position, as a considerable quantity of air will get in through the 
joints of the ash pit door. 

" The best fuel for hot house fire places is about equal quantities of 
coal and small cinders, or braise. This is cheaper than using coals only, 
and keeps up a steadier fire with less smoke. 

" At all times when fresh fuel is added to the fire, the hot fuel uncon- 
sumed must be pushed with an iron rake towards the further end of the 
bars, and fresh fuel appUed immediately in the front of it, so as to fill up 
the space between the. bars and the inner part of the frame of the double 
door. 

" This fuel being dead between the bars and the door, protects the door 
from the heat of the fire, and prevents the iron from warping. 

" In supplying the fire with fresh fuel, great care must be taken not to 
throw it over to the further end of the fire, or into the throat of the flue, 



MANAGEMENT OF FURNACES. 



49 



for this is often the cause of flues bursting. When coals are thrown 
beyond the fire after it has burnt low and the flue is hot, the heat of the 
brick work distils gas out of the coals ; this gas gets into the flue, and when 
the fuel over the fire becomes inflamed, if the flame be drawn into the flue, 
it ignites the gas that has been there generated, and causes an explosion ; 
this ought to be particularly attended to, as an explosion of gas in the 
flue may destroy a valuable collection of plants in a moment. 

There is also another circumstance, which renders it desirable to attend 
to the manner of supplying the fire with fuel. If the fresh fuel be 
thrown over the surface of a hot fire, it produces an immense volume of 
smoke and blacks. But on the contrary, when the fuel is added carefully 
at the front of the fire in the manner before described ; then much of the 
smoke given out by it is consumed in passing over the hot part of the 
fire. 

" Besides the management of the ash pit register, the damper of the flue 
ought to be particularly attended to, by not opening it ftirther than is 
absolutely necessary for the combustion of the fuel. The more the damper 
can be closed, provided the fire wiU bum moderately weU, the more heat 
will be retained in the flue, without escaping up the chimney, and the less 
fuel will be consumed ; and when the fire is made up for the last time in 
an evening, the damper should be put in as far as it can be, so as only just 
to keep the fire alive, and in general the fire may be allowed to burn 
bright against the last attendance in an evening ; and then, instead of 
putting on ft*esh fuel, close the ash pit and damper completely. This will 
prevent any draught of cold air through the flues canying the heat out 
at the chimney ; the body of heat that is in the mass of brick work of 
the flues, having then no other means of escape but into the house, wiU 
frequently be found sufficient for the night. 

The ash pit register should be properly attended to, and never suffered 
to get injured with rust ; not even in the summer time, when not in use. 
The door should then be taken off the hooks and properly cleaned, and 
rubbed with oil to prevent rust. 

"The shovel used for the fire places should have a short handle, which 
is as convenient for use as a long one, and with a short handled shovel 
the fuel cannot be so easily tin-own over the fire. The person who 
attends the fires should be directed to use his hands in opening and 
shutting the doors by then' proper handles, and not suffered to do so with 
a spade or shovel, for however strong they may be made, they must 
soon be destroyed by improper usage. 

" It is of the greatest importance to preserve the doors and ash pits 

E 



50 



GLAZING. 



perfect; for if they be injured, it is difficult to repair them without 
taking them out of the brick work, which is attended with considerable 
expense, and cannot be done when the fires are in constant use." 

GLAZING. 

Glazing is a veiy important matter in hot house building. The glass 
should be cut so as to fit the rabbet exactly, but not too tight ; it should 
be cut upon the curvihnear principle, and well bedded, not only in the 
rabbet, but also in the overlaps, which latter should not be broader than 
one eighth of an inch, and laid in coloured putty, that of a black colour 
has the best effect. It is the utmost extravagance to talk of plate glass 
only being used for greenhouses. Some theorists also assert, that 
puttying the laps darkens the house and excludes the sun's rays. No 
doubt this is to some extent true ; but were they left open when first 
finished, many weeks would not elapse before that they would become 
filled with dust and filth, which would exclude the same proportion of 
light, and instead of excluding the water, would rather tend to attract it 
into the house. The gi'eat advantage of puttying the laps is to prevent 
the breakage of glass, by leaving room for expansion in time of frost, and 
also by the glass having three soHd bases to rest upon instead of two. 

If economy be an object of consideration, the glass used may be cut 
under the size subject to duty, which will make a considerable difference 
in the expense, and will in all ordinary cases answer every useful purpose. 
In using the smaller sized glass, the laps may be left unputtj-ed, but their 
breadth should not exceed the eighth of an inch, which will carry off 
the water better than a lap of an inch and a half in breadth. 

Green glass was formerly used in this country for hot house roofe, and 
such is generally used to this day on the Continent, but it is of all sorts the 
worst ; for if, as Bouguer has shewn, one fortieth part of the hght which 
falls perpendicularly on the purest crystal is reflected off, or does not 
pass through it, it may safely be asserted that green glass reflects off more 
than three fourths. Economy, as to the quahty of glass, therefore, is 
defeating the intention of bmlding hot houses, which is to imitate a 
a natural chmate in all the qualities of light, heat, air, water, and earth, 
as perfectly as possible. The best crown glass only should be used, and, 
as we have already stated, it should be cut upon the curvihnear prin- 
ciple, and bedded and fastened in with soft putty, formed of well wrought 
paste of flower, mixed -svith whitening and raw Unseed oil, which is 
most durable, but requires a much longer time to dry. The hard sorts 



GLAZING, 



51 



of putty are objectionable, inasmuch as they are apt to crack unless they 
be painted soon after they ai'e used; they are also difficult to remove 
when it becomes necessary to repair broken glass. 

The most approved modes of glazing are ciurihnear, lap glazing, re- 
versed curvilinear, rhomboidal, perforated shield, entire shield, fragment, 
leaden lap, and common sash glazing. The first and last are certainly 
the best for our pm-poses. 

An ingenious, and, we think, a very useful mode of glazing ^vas pubhshed 
some years ago in the Transactions of the Horticultm-al Society, and is 
the invention of Mr. John Read, of the Regent's Ch-cus, PiccadiUy, weU 
known to horticulturahsts for his exceHent patent syringes. " :\It, 
Eead observes, that in the usual way, the sui-face of the putty being entirely 
exposed, soon looses its tenacity, and partiaHy separates from the bar, 
thereby admitting wet into the house and hastening the decay of the 
wood. To obviate these defects, Mr. Read's 
sash bar has a groove on each side to receive the 
glass and putty and the top is planed ofi", leaving 
it slanting both ways, as is shown in the 
annexed sketch, which is a section of the bar 
and glass. There is not more difficulty in re- 
pairing the glass in hghts, or roofs with bars of 
this form, than in those made in the usual way, 
as a narrow chisel, like a mortice chisel, cuts out 
the old putty with great ease/' 




FORM OF GREENHOUSES. 

Greenhouses may be of various forms and shapes, but the further 
that the parts deviate from straight lines, the more will the expense be 
increased, on account of the waste of material and extra labom- in work- 
manship. Chcular, domed, and cui'rilineai' houses are all liable to the 
above objection, and, in addition, are not easily veutHated. The ordinary 
form of straight roofs, or that of a span roof, is, in oiu* opinion, the most 
economical and fittest for all pm'poses. It may not be unimportant if we 
state briefly some opinions of much greater weight than our own on this 
subject, both for and against such foi-ms of roofs. 

The iutelhgent Thomas Andrew Knight, Esq., observes, that the plan 
recommended by the late Sir George I^rKenzie, Bart., for forcing 
houses, although exceedingly interesting, contains some defects wliich 

E 2 



52 



FOSM OF GREEXHOU.^ES. 



cannot be obviated without deviating from the spherical to the spheroidal 
form, which Sir George states to be objectionable, on account of the 
great nicety required in the workmanship. On making a few trials to 
ascertain the variety of forms wliich might be given for hot houses, by 
taking the different segments of a sphere, I soon became perfectly 
satisfied that forcing houses, of excellent form, for almost every purpose 
and of any convenient extent, might be constructed without deviating 
from the spherical form, and I am now," says he, " perfectly confident 
that such house v>ill be erected and kept in repair at less expense, 
\Yi\l possess the important advantage of admitting more light, and wiU. be 
found much more durable than such as are constructed according to any 
of the forms that have been hitherto recommended. By employing a 
small segment of a large sphere, as low and as wide a forcing house as 
can be wanted for any purpose, may be readily obtained. Instead of the 
half, a hemisphere of thirty feet diameter, let the half of one of fifty be 
chosen, and from the base of this cut off thirty five degrees, and fi'om the 
summit fifteen degrees, and the following proportions for a forcing house 
will be given. Its height, (including eighteen inches of upright, opaque 
front, opening as shutters), will be twelve feet ; its ^vidth in the centre, 
fourteen feet, and its length very nearly forty feet ; and there are few 
purposes for wliich a house, constiTicted according to some of the inter- 
mediate forms, between that above mentioned and the accuminated semi- 
dome, will not be found extremely well adapted." 

Cunihnear-roofed hot houses of all shapes, we ought to observe, require 
very great care in regulating the effects of solar heat, particularly those 
that are constructed of metallic matter. From the experiments made in 
the gardens of the London Hoiticultural Society, and pubhshed in the 

Transactions " of that Society, vol. YI. p. 379, we learn that in the 
first year of its trial, the roof was permitted to be wholly exposed to the 
action of the sun, but it was fomid impracticable to regulate its tem- 
perature under such chcumstances, although the house was ventilated, not 
only by means of apparatus in the front and back walls, but the two ends 
of the house were so contrived that they will open almost enthely when 
necessary, so that a current of air may be introduced both at the ends and 
§ides. The temperature was indeed kept regular dming the night by 
means of fire heat without difficulty, but in the day time it was found 
impossible to do so. "WTien there were alternate changes from a clouded 
to a bright sky, the action of the sun's rays was so sudden, that the 
thermometer of the house was raised too high before the speediest supply 
of air could be given ; and when there was a whole day of continued 



FORM OF GREEXHOlSES. 



53 



sunshine, with a calm atmosphere, as often happened in the early part of 
the season, the house could not, with all the ventilators in operation, be 
kept within ten degrees of the temperature required. After tliis experiment, 
it was determined to counteract the iiTegularity of temperature by pro- 
viding the roof^ith an awning of canvass, which might be di'awn over 
the glass or removed, as should be advisable. This produced very bene- 
fxcial results. The experiment, therefore, seems to prove, that although 
vrith attention it may be practicable to force some description of fruits, 
perhaps with almost as much success as in a wooden house, yet that 
ofthers are not to be made to bear fruit, and that upon the whole, a 
house constructed with wood is much better adapted to the purpose of 
forcing, than one with a curdhnear iron roof.'' 

Not only are curvilinear metalhc hot houses more difficult to manage in 
regard to temperature, than wooden and straight roofed houses of the 
same size, but they are also, from the same causes, more difficult to main- 
tain in a proper state of humidity. This has also been satisfactorily proved 
in the garden of the Horticultural Society, from experiments made by 
Darnell's hygrometer, the result of which is, ^' that in curvilinear houses 
during the summer, the degi*ee of atmospheric moisture, which appears 
to be most suitable to tropical vegetation, may be settled at about 
eight hundi'ed and sixty, the temperature being from eight}^ to eighty seven 
degrees of Fahrenheit, and the transmission of hght such as has been 
already stated to take place through an iron roof. And it has been 
satisfactorily ascertained, that the nearer the temperature and humidity' of 
a stove approximates to these degrees, the more favourable is the artificial 
, climate found for bringing the powers of vegetation into vigorous action. 
It can also be stated, that unless such a degi'ee of humidity is care- 
fully maintained during the summer months in a hot house constructed 
of u'on, such a house will be found more rapidly prejudicial to the 
health of plants than one constructed of wood, because its atmosphere, 
if left to itself, would become more dry, and the plants would exhibit 
all the symptoms of aridity'." 

Our own experience in metallic hot houses has long ago satisfied us 
that they are, in the above respects, as well as in others, inferior to houses 
constructed of wood ; and we are only surprised after the opinions of 
competent judges have been so frequently laid before the pubhc, that 
houses of curviUnear forms, and of metallic materials should not have 
been, long before now, entkely expelled from our gardens. 

Much has been said of late years, and we beheve to very little purpose, 
upon the angle which the roof of a hot house should present to the horizon, 



54 



FORM OF GREENHOUSES. 



and indeed we find that tliis subject had attracted the attention of the 
celebrated Boerhaave. Phihp Miller applied it to plant stoves, and 
Williamson, Knight, the late Sir George M'Kenzie, and others, have also 
directed their attention to the subject. The " Horticultural Transactions," 
and the Encyclopsedia of Gardening," contain a variety of opinions upon 
this subject ; but so far as we know, few hot houses have been erected 
with much attention to the nicety of these theories. 

Most hot houses are built to about an angle of forty five degrees or 
thereby, and we hear of few complaints against such structures. Indeed, 
this angle appears to be the least that will effectually drain off the 
water, and appears to us to be exceedingly well calculated for general 
purposes. 

The follovdng has been laid down as data to determine the angles of 
the roofs of hot houses by Wilkinson, in the Horticultural Transactions, 
vol. 11. p. 237: "The angle contained between the back wall of the 
forcing house and the inchned plane of the glass roof, always equals the 
sun^s altitude when his rays fall perpendicularly on that plane, provided 
that the inclination of the plane to the horizon be at an angle not less 
than twenty eight degrees, two minutes, nor greater than seventy five 
degrees. Within the above hmits, the sun's rays are perpendicular 
twice in the year, once in going to, and once in returning from, the 
tropics." Hence, then, having determined in what season we wish to 
have the most powerful eflfects from the sun, we may construct our 
houses according to the following rule : Make the angle contained 
between the back wall of the house and its roof, equal to the com- 
pliment of latitude of the place, less or more the sun's declination 
for that day on which we wish his rays to fall perpendicularly. From 
the vernal to the autumnal equinox, the dechnation is to be added, 
and the contrary. Thus, to apply those principles to the slope of 
roof recommended by Knight, for ripening grapes in July, we have, 
say at London, 

Latitude of London . . . 51° 29' 

Sun's declination on the 21st of July . 17° 31' 

33° 58' or 34° nearly. 



As we want the genial warmth of the sun most in spring, therefore, 
for general purposes, that construction would perhaps be best which 



ANGLE OF GREENHOUSES. 



55 



gives us the greatest quantity of perpendicular rays then. If the inclina- 
tion were forty five degrees, the sun^s rays would be perpendicular about 
April the 6th, and September the 4th ; and as the rays would vary very 
little from the perpendicular for several days before and after the 6th of 
April, and the 4th of September, the loss of rays arising from reflection 
would, as appears from the annexed table, be nearly a minimum. Ev€n 
at the winter solstice, the loss by the obliquity of the angle of incidence 
would be only two in one thousand more than when the rays fall per- 
pendicularly, as appears by Bouguer's Table of Rays, reflected from glass, 
of (me thousand incidental rays. "^Tien the angle of incidence is 



87° 30' 


584 are reflected 


60° 


112 


85° O' 


543 


50° 


57 


82° 30' 


474 


40° 


34 


80° 0' 


412 


30° 


27 


77° 30' 


356 


20° 


25 


75° 0' 


299 


10° 


25 


70° 0' 


222 


1° 


25 


65° O' 


157 







Enq/. of Gard. 



PAINTING. 

Every plant structure should be painted at least three times before it 
is finished, so as to prevent the timber from imbibing moisture, which if 
once in, and the paint laid over it, it cannot escape, and as a conse- 
quence, decay, under the general denomination of dry rot, commences, 
and going on unobserved, soon reduces the fabric to a state of ruin. 
Upon the same principle, the best quality of timber, and that weU 
seasoned, should only be used. More mischief arises from a want of 
attention being paid to these two points than from aU other evils put 
together. 

In regard to colour, much may be left to fancy, at least for the 
last coat. WTiite is the most common, but is soon stained, and looks 
dirty; green is very popular, but is the most expensive in the first 
instance, and requires to be oftenest renewed, as it is less durable, 
^d sooner fades and looks bad. A soft stone colour is at once 
the cheapest, the most durable, and harmonizes best with garden 
objects. 

Hot houses should be painted at least once in ^three years ; but 



56 FORM OF GREEXHOUSES. 

much caution is required to prevent the cure from being worse than 
the disease, for if the rafters and sashes be damp before the painting is 
commenced, the damp ^vithin them will be prevented from es caping, and 
decay will be the consequence. 




THE HEATHERY. 



Agreeable to the arrangement we haye already purposed for the 
division of greenhouse plants into groups, or separate departments, we 
will now proceed to treat of each department separately. 

The Heathery, besides the extensive and varied family of erica, may 
^vith propriety contain the foUo^ing genera of the following natural 
orders. 

ERICE^. 

BL^RIA or SYMPIEZA 



AXDERSOXIA 

ASTROLOMA 

DRACOPHYLLUM 



EPACRIDE^, 

EPACRIS 

LISSAXTHE 

LYSIXEMA 



SPREXGELIA 

STYPHELIA 

STEXAXTHERA 



COMPOSIT^E. 

All the greenhouse species sepai-ated from the original genera, 

GNAPHALIUM AND HELICHRYSUM 

viz., 

APPELEXIS ATHRIXIA PHCEXOCOMA 

ASTELMA LEUCOSTEMMA SPIRALEPIS 

METALASIA 



ADEXANDRA 
AGATHOSMA 
BARYOSMA 



RUTACEJ; 



BOROXIA 
CORR^A 
CROW^EA 



DIOSMA 

ERIOSTEMON 

RUTA 



ACTUS 

BOSSLEA 

CYCLOPIA 

CHORIZEMA 

DILLWY-XIA 

DAVIE SI A 



LEGUMINOS.E. 

EUTAXIA 

GOMPHOLOBIUM 

GASTROLOBIUM 

HOVE A 

LIPARIA 

LODDIGESTA 



OXYLOBIUM 

PULTEX-EA 

PODOLOBIUM 

PLATYLOBIUM 

SCOTTIA 

TEMPLETOXIA 



Such a house would be perfection in itself, comprising from seven to 
eight hundred species and varieties of Flora's choicest gems, plants of 



58 



THE HEATHERY. 



evergreen and elegant habits, and from their great variety presenting t 
the eye a succession of bloom throughout the whole year. 

Of the interesting family of erica, one of our most popular botanical 
authors, says, " of what other genus can it be said that every species, 
without exception, is beautiful throughout the year, and at every period 
of its growth — in flower or out of flower — and of every size and age ? 
Suppose an individual had the penance imposed on him of being forbidden 
to cultivate more than one genus of ornamental plants — is there a genus 
he could make choice of at all to be compared to erica ? Perpetually 
green, perpetually in flower — of all colours, of all sizes, and of many 
shapes.*' 

The cultivation of this splendid tribe was the prevaihng fashion about 
thirty years ago, and they would, in all probabihty, still have continued 
more generally cultivated than they are at present, had it not been for the 
supposed difficulty in the management of them. Mr. Page, of Southamp- 
ton, very justly obser\-es, that " a prejudice having spread that the culture 
of these plants is difficidt, one of the greatest ornaments of the green- 
house, has hence, of late, been neglected, although the method of culture 
is as easy and nearly as certain as that of the geranium, but requiring a 
little more dehcacy in the execution." Nothing can be more erroneous 
than to assert that they are more difficult to manage than other exotics, 
and we hope, if the following brief directions be followed, that the truth 
of this assertion will be fully established. 

In order that our observations may be clearly understood, we will 
divide them into the following heads : — 

Stmctnres calculated for their ^o-vytti. I General treatment when out of doors. 
Propag-ation & treatment when young-. Soil. 
Genei'al treatment when in the house, i Shifting. 

The general routine of culture here recommended for the genus erica, 
is, for the most part, applicable to the genera enumerated above; but 
as there ai'e some particulars in which they differ, such will be noticed in 
its proper place. Having adopted the term Heathery, however, and that 
genus constituting fully more than all the others together, added to the 
drcujnstance that they of themselves deserve an entire house, we will 
give them the precedence in the following remarks, and then take up the 
management of the remaining genera as a supplement to this article. 

STRUCTURES FOR THE GROW^TH OF ERICA. 

The Cape Ericas are chiefly found indigenous, at considerable altitudes 
above the sea, and hence, even in those latitudes, the thermometer often 



DESCEIFTIOX OF HOUSE. 



59 



falls below the freezing point, and our experience in their culture enables us 
to say that they are capable of enduring a considerable degree of cold with 
impunity. Like aU mountain plants, they wiU not long flourish in a damp, 
csr impure atmosphere, nor in one, however dry, if excluded from a free 
circulation of air, and fuU exposure to solar Hght. It follows, therefore, 
t3iat in the selection of a proper habitation for them, one fuUy exposed 
to the sun, and in a perfectly dry situation, and constructed so that the 
plants may stand near the glass, capable at the same time of ventilation 
to the fullest extent, with the front and roof sashes rendered moveable 
when required, wHl be the most proper habitation for them. 




The annexed section wiU give some idea of what may be considered 
an economical and useful heath house, and may be of any length required, 
from twenty to one hundred feet ; the height over the passage should not 
exceed seven feet, which wiU be ample space to walk under ; the width 
twelve feet, allowing three and a half feet for the passage, four and a half 
for the left hand stand for the largest specimens to be placed on, and 
four feet for the front platform, on which the smaller plants are to he 
placed. These platforms might be formed of ^Welsh slate, perforated to 
admit of the superflous water passing off, and also to aUow a circu- 
lation of air to pass through amongst the plants. The front sashes 
should be eighteen inches high, and the front platform about level with 
the wall plate. The cavities under the plant tables should be left open, so 
that no tendency to generate damp may be encomaged ; and under the 
front platfoiTu the flue (a) should be placed, its principal use being to dry 
up superabundant humidity, and to repel the frost when it is \eTy severe ; 



60 



THE HEATHERY. 



for if tlie thermometer in the heathery do not fall below thirty degrees, 
the plants ^ill not sustain any injury from want of artificial heat. 

Upon this principle, although upon a much more splendid scale, is the 
Heathery at AYobm'n Abbey, one of the seats of his grace the Duke of 
Bedford, in which one of the best collections of ericas in England, 
has been cultivated for many years, with the most complete success. His 
Grace^s splendid work upon tliis tribe, The Hortus Ericeus WoburnemiSj' 
printed for private distribution, has materially assisted in maintaining a 
taste for this family, and is also a proof of the high estimation they are 
held in by that amiable and patriotic nobleman. 




The annexed section of a span-roofed house is also upon an economical 
scale, and well calculated for the cultivation of erica and their near 
associates. As in the last example, the whole of the side and roof sashes 
should be moveable, the height over the passage seven feet, and the 
internal ^idth eighteen, allowing three and a half feet for each passage, 
three feet for the breadth of each of the fi*ont platforms, and five feet for 
the centi'e one, on wliich the lai'gest plants are intended to stand. The 
top part of the roof is covered with boarding of one foot from each 
side of the ridge. This boarding is intended to support an awning of 
^lin canvass, mounted on rollers for the pm-pose of shading the roof during 
the heat of summer, and also for the support of a covering of thick canvass, 
also mounted on rollers, to exclude the cold dming intense frost, and 
which latter covering will be sufficient protection for them and enable 
the cultivator to dispense vrith fire heat, which, under any circumstances, 
is very inimical to the plants of this order. 

From November till ^^larch, the latter covering will be occasionally 
required, and the former, for shading, occasionally, fi'om June till Sep- 
tember, after which periods both may be removed. The foliage of 



PROFAGATIOX xiND TREATilEXT. 



61 



the heath tribe would sustain, without injury, the greatest degree 
of sun heat "we ever have in these latitudes ; but it is the roots that 
we wish to protect by partial shading, for when the sun acts fully on the 
pots, they become heated to a great degree, and as the roots of all healthy 
heaths and similar plants are in close contact with the pots, they are 
rapidly dried up, or heated beyond the degree that they are capable of 
bearing ; for as in theu' natural habitations they grow amongst thick 
herbage, and are partially shaded about theii' roots, they consequently 
are kept much cooler than if they were growing without any covering 
whatever. There are, however, some exceptions to this rule ; but by far 
the greater number are so circumstanced. 

Along the centre of this span house, a row of cast iron columns should 
be placed, to support the ridge, and wliich may be either plain or orna- 
mented vvith appropriate mouldings. A flue a a, may be run along imder 
the side platforms, for the purpose of di-^ing up supei*fluous humidity or 
damp, it vnll rarely be required for any other pm-pose if the covering 
recommended be adopted. However, as the expense in the first erection 
is not great, it will be well to have one, even for precaution. 

No doubt heaths are, and have been successfully cultivated in houses of 
the most ordinary description, but the success attending thek growth has 
depended principally upon free ventilation, moderation in watering, an 
almost total absence of fire heat, a full exposure to the sun, and closeness 
to the glass. So far as cultivation is concerned, heaths may be very well 
grown in pits, which is the most economical of all plant structures, but in 
pits, the owner loses much of their beaut\-, from the circumstance of their 
being placed in a very unfavom'able position to be seen when in flower ; 
* and as they will not beai' with impunity for any length of time, the 
close confinement of the di^av^ing room, much of the interest arising 
from them is lost, if not placed in a house adapted for them. 

PROPAGATION AXD TREATMENT WHEN YOUNG. 

Plants of the natural order Ericece, like most similar shrubs, are readily 
increased by seeds and cuttings, and rarely by any other means. Seeds 
are often imported from the Cape of Good Hope, and are also frequently 
ripened in this country- ; from both of these, hybrid varieties are very 
likely to be obtained, for we beheve that many heaths cultivated in this 
country-, and considered as species, are no other than hybrids originated 
from seeds procm*ed by one or other of those means. "When we consider 
the operations that are constantly going on in nature, in regard to this 



62 



THE HEATHERY. 



subject, both in a wild and in a cultivated state, we are only astonished 
that more numerous varieties have not been recognised. 

The best time for sowing seeds of this order is early in spring, say 
Februars^ and ]March ; and for this important reason, plants originated from 
seeds sown in spring, will attain such a size and strength before autumn, as 
to enable them to outlive the winter following, which is a trying time for 
young plants. In preparing pots for this purpose, they should not be too 
large ; the size known by the term thirty-two's is the best. AYe need 
hardly remind the most inexperienced in cultivation, that they should be 
weU drained, by being filled at least two thirds with broken pots, small 
stones, or cinders. The soQ used should be of the sort called very sandy 
peat. The seeds should be sown on the surface, (which must be made 
smooth and level), and scarcely covered at all. ^^'hen sown, watering 
should be regularly attended to, and applied with the finest rose pot. 
They should be placed in a cool, shaded frame, under glass, or plunged 
in a rather damp border, where the sun seldom shines, and covered with 
a hand glass. In such a situation, water should be seldom apphed, 
because the seeds being so minute, they are liable to be washed 
off in the process, and therefore, the less frequently they are watered 
the better. As the yoimg plants appear, air should be progressively 
admitted to them, and every precaution now taken to guard against damp, 
an excess of which, as well as an excess of drouth, would be equally fatal 
to them in this state. Wlien the plants have attained the height of one 
inch or so, they may be transplanted into small thumb pots, placing three, 
four, or five in each, and as near to the edge of the pot as possible. From 
some cause, not easily explained, we find that young plants and cuttings 
root faster when placed in close contact with the sides of the pots in 
which they are planted, than when they are placed more towards the 
centre. After this fii'st potting, they should be kept for eight or ten days 
in a close, cool frame, or pit, shading them fi'om the sun in the middle of 
the day, and gradually exposing them to the air, until they are found to 
be so established as to stand the full heat of the sun. The greatest atten- 
tion must be paid to a regular system of watering, for if they be allowed 
to become too diy, they will die off in a few hours' time, and if kept 
too wet, they will damp off in an equally short period. 



63 



PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 

Almost an tlie plants of this natural order will strike root by cuttings ; 
some sorts, however, requiring a longer period to do so than others. The 
most eligible wood for this purpose is the young wood of the present 
year's growth, when it becomes partially hardened, so as not to be liable 
to damp off. It would be impossible to convey an idea to the unin- 
itiated, of the proper state that the wood should be in for this pur- 
pose, but the cultivator who knows any thing of the matter, will readily 
understand us when we say, the wood should be fuUy matured, but before 
it had attained its dark colour, and to be, when shghtly pressed between 
the finger and thumb, somewhat firm, but neither pelding to the touch 
nor yet quite hard. In regard to the length of the cuttings, much depen<fc 
on the habit of the different species. Some of the robust grovdng sorts 
may be from an inch to an inch and a half in [length, while others of the 
more shy grovdng kinds can only be obtained about half that length. The 
cuttings selected, should be chosen from the healthiest plants, and taken 
off close to where they issue from the old wood. In preparing the cat- 
tings, the leaves should be cut clean from the shoot, either with a sharp 
knife or fine pair of scissors, the end should be cut transversely across in a 
neat manner, so as not to leave the wound ragged or bruised. The leaves 
should, upon no account, be shortened, neither should any more of them 
be taken off than just so far as the cutting is to be inserted into the sand. 

With respect to the proper season for putting in cuttings of this order 
of plants, and indeed of most other slow growing kinds, the spring is the 
best, for the same reason given above for sowing seeds. 

It sometimes happens, however, that cuttings cannot be obtained In a 
proper state at that season : when such is the case, recourse must be had 
to inducing the old plants to make wood fit for the purpose. This is to be 
effected by placing them into a little heat early in spring, they wiU then 
make plenty of young wood, which is the best for cuttings. In extensive 
genera, like that of erica, it would be impossible to state any particular 
period of the year for commencing the operation of propagation by cut- 
tings, because some one or other of them are in a fit state for the purpose 
on almost every day in the year ; therefore, the time for putting in cuttings 
should be regulated rather by the state of the plant than by the time 
of the year. 

The method of preparing the pots is not essentially different from that 
recommended above for seeds, draining being the chief object to be kept 
in view. 



64 



THE HEATHERY. 



The following very judicious mode of proceeding is recommended by 
Mr. ]\I'Nab, of the Edinburgh Botanical Garden, than whom none has 
succeeded better in the cultivation of this tribe. In extensive nurser)- 
collections, where great quantities of plants are wanted, one pot may be 
filled with cuttings of the same species, when such can be got in sufficient 
quantities ; but in private collections this is not necessary, for a few plants 
of a sort, in general, are all that is required. ^Mien this is the case, the 
kinds selected to be put in the same pot, should be as nearly of the same 
habit as can be judged of at the time. For example, I shall suppose four 
pots are intended to be filled with cuttings. Such as the following should 
be selected for each pot ; — 



FIRST POT. 

Melastoma 

Petiveriana 

Petiveria 

Sabana 

Penicillata 



SECOND POT. 

Pinea 

Pinifolia 

Vistita 

Grandifiora 

Purpurea 



THIRD POT. 

Ventricosa 

Praeg"nans 

Liniiceana 

Linaioides 

Colorans 



FOURTH POl". 

Aitoniana 

Jasminifiora 

Ampullacea 

Irbvana 

Inflata. 



Unless tliis is attended to, one sort will be found to strike root in a 
much shorter time than others in the same pot, which makes it more 
inconvenient when potting them out. Tliis, however, must always happen 
to a certain extent, for a little diflference in the age or firmness of the 
cutting, even when the work is performed by the most experienced hand, 
will often make a difference in the time requu'ed to strike root. Yv'hen 
the pot is thus filled with the cuttings, it should be well watered with a 
tine rose water pot, and placed in a close, shady part of the stove, ad- 
mitting as little air as possible near to where the cutting pots are 
placed, and taking care to water them freely eveiy day. Indeed, when 
put in this way, there is no risk of over watering them ; for, having them 
well drained, the water is allowed to pass fi'eely through, and so far from 
injuring the cuttings, they are benefitted by it." 

We must observe, that however excellent the above mode of striking 
heaths may be, it cannot, under aU circumstances, be appHed in prac- 
tice, because there are many cultivators who have not the convenience 
of a stove to place them in. A substitute for the stove may be found 
in a well regulated cucumber or melon bed, in which many strike 
heaths and other hard wooded plants veiy successfully. The reason for 
apphing heat to the cuttings is to excite them to the greatest possible 
degree, during which they will, if they are in a fit state, strike root very 
scon, or^damp off at once. 

The more usual method of striking cuttings of the generality of heaths 



GENERAL TREATMENT. 



65 



is to plunge the pots into coal ashes, rotten tan, or similar matter, in a 
rather damp, shaded border, covering each pot with a bell glass, and the 
whole with a close frame and lights. By this method the cuttings are 
longer in rooting, but as it is within the reach of everj^ one possessed of a 
garden, however small, and as it is attended with less risk from inatten- 
tion, &c., we recommend it to their attention. It is necessary in prepar- 
ing the pots for the cuttings to select them of about equal sizes, say that of 
thirty-twos, and to fill them to within an inch and a half of the top with 
broken pots, cinders, coarse gravel, or small stones, over which a thin 
layer of moss, (hypnum,) should be placed to prevent the finer particles 
of mould fi'om being washed down amongst the drainage. The pot should 
then be filled to the brim with fine, pure white sand, as free as possi])le of 
earthy or irony matter, but as tliis is seldom to be procm^ed sufficiently 
free of those matters ; it may be well to wash it by putting small quantities 
at a time into a bag, and di'agging it frequently through a cistern, or 
stream of water. ^Yhen put into the pot it should be well watered and 
pressed fii-mly down, the smface made smooth and level, and the cuttings 
put in as soon after as possible. 

In the propagation of heaths it has been almost universally maintained 
that bell glasses should be used under all circumstances, that is, whether 
they be placed in heat, in a shady border, cool frame, or pit. Experi- 
ence has taught us that cuttings placed in heat succeed, for the most 
part, better without glasses than with them : some of the most difficult 
rooting sorts, such as the E. glauca, E. elegans, may be covered v^ith advan- 
tage ; but these are few in number, and do not, if well managed, require 
to b3 so often renewed as most others. ^Yhen glasses are used, the 
greatest care must be taken that they be kept regularly wiped at least 
once a day to prevent damp from destroying the cuttings. Cuttings 
placed in a cool, shaded border, frame, or pit, should certainly be covered 
with beU or hand glasses, and these should remain on until they are 
rooted, and taken off only for the pm-pose of being wiped, and any damp or 
mouldiness removed from the surface of the sand in which they are 
placed. Regularity in watering, and also in shading, is absolutely necessary 
to insure success, ^^^len the young cuttings have begun to grow, air must 
be gradually admitted to them, so that by the time they are rooted and fit 
for transplanting they may be able to vrithstand the sun's heat, and free 
exposure to the air. In regard to their first potting, the directions already 
given for seedlings is applicable also to cuttings, as it also is to their sub- 
sequent culture. 



F 



66 



GENERAL TREATMENT IN THE HOUSE. 

It has long been our opinion, although we are aware that it is not in 
exact accordance with general practice, that the Epacris, Helichrysum, 
and some other similar plants of the genera enumerated at the commence- 
ment of this article, should not be taken out of the greenhouse during 
summer, as the majority of plants are. Tliis opinion is strengthened, by 
the success we have experienced, in a collection of about three hundred 
species of the best sorts, so managed under our own immediate charge, and 
much more so by observing the practice of those French and German cul- 
tivators who follow a similar plan, as well as that of the superior manage- 
ment of these plants in the Edinburgh botanical garden, where specimens 
are to be seen grown in tubs, from three to four feet in diameter, and the 
plants from eight to twelve feet in height. No cultivator has been so 
successful in this department as ^Ir. M*Nab, the intelligent curator of 
that garden, from whose valuable treatise on the subject we take the 
following quotation. " AYhen I mention the treatment of heaths when in 
the house," he says, " I must let it be understood that if I had sufficient 
accommodation under glass, I never would take heaths out of doors, 
unless it were for the purpose of shifting, or taking them from one house 
to another. My practice would be to keep them in the house all summer, 
giving them plenty of air, and to keep them cool during winter. I know 
it is the common practice to t\\m heaths out of doors for four or five 
months in summer and autumn, and it is also a pretty general opinion 
that by doing so it makes them hardier, and enables them to stand the 
winter better than they vrould do if kept within doors during summer. 
From this opinion I must take the hberty of differing, as I know of no 
species of heath that will not bear as much cold in winter, without suffer- 
ing from it if kept in the house diuing summer, as they do when turned 
out of doors, and many of them, (perhaps all), I know, will bear more 
cold in the winter. For, by the latter practice, the young wood gets 
better ripened, and better able to resist cold in winter." The same 
excellent authority, in speaking of plants in general, recommends, where 
there is sufficient accommodation, to keep all plants under glass during 
summer, and, in such eases, to allow them plenty of room, " for unless 
they are placed quite separate," he observes, from each other, so that 
a free circulation can pass among them, they will suffer much more when 
crowded in the hovise in the summer than they will do in the same situa- 
tion duiing the winter, for in vrinter they are in a more dormant state, 
and not grov,ing with the same ^igoui'. I would however advise every 



lipacris g'l-aja diflor <j. . 

E_eiiiied.ia prostra.ta -t. TTzbiGUJUia. 



mm 



GENERAL TREATMENT. 



67 



one to keep as many of their best specimens and best kinds within doors 
during summer as they can, without having them crowded together. I 
cannot give better directions than to say, that one should not touch the 
other when in the house in summer, and if the nearest part of one to the 
other is two or three inches apart, so much the better. The house, how- 
ever, should be ventilated at all times, and, except in cases of high wind 
or heavy rain, both top and front lights should be kept open night and^ 
day ; and besides watering the earth in the pots freely when they requii-e 
it, they should be vrell watered over-head with the garden engine every 
day ; and if the weather is hot and dry, this operation should be performed 
twice every day, namely, both morning and evening.'^ 

There is one branch of culture in which we diifer from the talented writer 
above quoted; he recommends a partial degree of shade during the 
hottest days of summer. In this particular the Messrs. Loddiges agree 
with us, as do most of the continental cultivators. This, however, may be 
less important in the latitude of Edinbm-gh than in that of London, and is 
certainly much less so there than in most parts of France, or the south of 
Germany, and for that reason it may not be noticed in the excellent 
directions laid down by Mr. M'Nab. Messrs. Loddiges follow the con- 
tinental fashion of shading by means of long slender branches of birch or 
other deciduous trees, which are laid over the roof of the house, breaking 
the full force of the sun's rays, while at the same time air is not much 
obstructed. Our practice is to shade by spreading netting over the roof, 
and latterly by having a fine thin canvass awning, mounted on rollers, on 
the top of the house, which is let down or taken up at pleasure. 

Air cannot be too freely admitted to heaths, and, indeed, to all similar 
plants, and to effect this the upright lights may be left open altogether, 
until the thermometer, in the open au', falls to two or three degrees below 
the freezing point ; indeed, we have even had the mould in the pots 
frozen pretty hard without the appUcation of fire heat. If the house be 
pretty air-tight and dry, ^fire heat v^U seldom be required ; for we find 
by Mr. M'Nab, f Treatise, p. 31. J, that he has had no accident in this 
respect when the thermometer out of doors indicated sixteen degrees of 
frost. The following quotation on this subject of temperature is so excel- 
lent that we are induced to give it' at length. 

"I have had all the heaths in the house frozen for days together, 
so hard that the pots could not be removed from then* places without 
breaking them, and fresh air constantly admitted at the time, and I have 
never seen one of them suffer in the smallest degree from it ; but, on 
the contrary, found them thrive better than under any other treatment. 



68 



THE HEATHERY. 



I have several times had the heath house in ^\inter without fire heat, 
when the thermometer out of doors stood at sixteen degrees helow 
freezing. But in these eases the house was always shut close, and I have 
never seen the heaths suffer from this cold. I would not, however, advise 
any person to risk his heaths in such a temperature until he had himself 
tried some experiments on the degree of cold which they will bear, and 
from that he will leam more than he could from volumes written on 
the subject ; a verj- little observation will soon con%ince him that his heaths 
require but little fire heat during winter. I have abeady said that heaths 
suffer fi'om too much artificial heat ; and all that I have read an their 
cultivation seems to concur in this particular : but I am not aware that 
any one has pointed out what degree of heat or cold is injurious ; and, 
indeed, I have only been able to ascertain this myself, to a very limited 
extent. The time, however, when these plants suffer most from heat 
is, when a sharp frost sets in, and no heat is apphed tUl after the frost 
has taken effect in the inside of the house. Then a fire is put on, and the 
frost is driven out. It is better, no doubt, in such a case, to keep out the 
thief if you can, but if once let in, keep him in, and never attempt to 
force him out. AVe know that heaths in the open air will not suffer when 
the thermometer stands four or five degrees below freezing ; and we know 
also, that heaths in the house in winter will bear the same degi'ee of cold 
^^'ith. impunity. Now, we shall suppose the thermometer out of doors to 
fall to twelve or fourteen degrees below freezing, and no heat in the heath 
house ; the thermometer in the inside may then be fom' or five degrees 
below fi'eezing. If there be no appearance of a change, then it is neces- 
sary to apply heat to the house ; but all that is wanted in tliis case, 
just enough to prevent the temperature fi'om getting lower than it was 
when '^the heat was introduced. Suppose the thermometer to sink to 
eighteen or twenty' degrees below freezing during the night ; the instru- 
ment inside should range as near as possible to what it was when the 
heat was apphed. This however requires very particular attention. 
From what I know, heaths will suffer, if, after the thermometer has fallen 
four or five degrees below freezing inside of the house, heat be added so 
as to raise the temperature, and drive out the frost, during the time 
the thermometer is still sinking out of doors. It would be much better 
if the house were left without fii'e heat, even with the thermometer fifteen 
or sixteen degrees below fi'eezing point out of doors ; such treatment 
is bad for all plants, but more particulaiiy for heaths. If we were certain 
that the thermometer dming the night would not sink more than ten or 



TREATMEXT IN DOORS. 



69 



twelve degrees below freezing out of doors, no artificial lieat whatever 
would be necessaiw in the heath house." 

"We have made tliis long quotation, because it is the tried practice of 
one of the best cultivators of the present day ; and, if acted upon, 
will remove much of the cultivator's anxiety, so far as the true principle 
of appMng artificial heat is concerned, and convince him how small 
a degi^ee of that element is really necessary-, in greenhouses of the 
or dinar}' descriptions. 

During winter, water should be very sparingly applied to heaths; 
and in times of severe fr'ost only enough should be given to keep the 
plants from drooping. The case is different however, during spring and 
summer, when they should have it abundantly supplied once, and, in 
some cases, twice a-day, at their roots, and two or three times during the 
week over then* leaves and branches by using the syringe or small garden 
^gine. 

In regard to the general treatment of Cape heaths, we find the following 
excellent, plain, and useful directions laid down by Mr. Fyffe, in a com- 
munication in the fifth volume of the " Horticultural Cabinet," in answer 
to a correspondent who complains of his heaths getting naked, or, more pro- 
perly speaking, rusty. " This, I should say," observes jMr. F}ife, " is from the 
effects of drought ; fr'om being crowded close together ; or from the pots 
being exposed to the powerful rays of the sun. If the pots are placed in 
the open air, as is the practice vdth most of our hardy greenhouse plants, 
this always takes place with the more tender sorts of the Bricce. The sun 
acts so powerfully on the pots, when exposed for any period of time, as 
to dry the baU completely ; and, allowing the plant to be watered with the 
greatest care, the substance of x^eat soil being of a pecuharly drying nature, 
the water often runs off, if the plants are potted high, without penetrating 
to the centre of the ball ; — this is the cause of heaths going off so sud- 
denly. WTien once allowed to get completely dried up, you may water 
them and go away, fancying that all is right, when, perhaps, if you were 
to turn out the plant, the water has not penetrated one inch. The next day 
comes a hot and burning sun, your plants stand exposed as usual, and, by 
the action of the sun, the pot has succeeded in completely drying up the 
ball by mid-day ; — the plant stands so until night, and for six hom*s it 
is actually d^ing for moisture." 

To remedy this e\il, the following rule should, according to the above 
authority, be observed : — <^ If in the habit of placing heaths in the open 
air, never do so T^ithout plunging the pots to the brims in cinders, ashes, 
or sand, the former being the best, not being liable to be infested with 



70 



THE HEATHERY. 



worms, keeping the ashes in a moist state by watering, as also giving 
each plant a regular supply even- night, according to its state of dryness. 
Heaths are much benefitted by being partially shaded by canvass or any 
light substance when set in the open aii*, as the sun acts so powerfully 
on the foliage when first taken out of the house; but if a house is 
especially set apart for the cultivation of heaths, I would not," says 
Mr. F^-ffe, " take them out at all, except a few, so that the rest may not be 
over-crov\ ded, gi^'ing air at all times, except in ven* severe weather, or 
when cutting ^inds occur, if the stage of the house stands high or much 
exposed to drying -^^inds. When air is admitted to the house," Mr. F. 
recommends the pots to be protected by placing a quantity of h\-pnum 
amongst them, keeping it moist by watering." 

Cape heaths are very liable to be attacked by mildew, particularly in 
the neighbourhood of London : and some collections have been nearly 
destroyed from this cause."^ Sulphur, applied either in a dry or moist 
state, is the most effectual cure, and should be appHed upon the ven* first 
appearance of the disease, by dusting the plants all over with the dr\- flour 
of sulphur, or by making up a thick lather of sulphur, mixed with soap, 
and laid on the plants \dth a painter's brush. It is difficult to trace the 
real cause of this disease ; some attribute it to the practice of exposing 
them dming summer to the power of the mid-day sun ; others, to the 
excess of water given towaids autumn ; while many think it is an atmo- 
spheric disease, and that some situations are more hable to its effects than 
others. It is said to be of rare occurrence in Scotland, owing, pro- 
bably, to the summers being cooler there than in England. ^A^latever 
may be the cause, the effect is in general fatal, for heaths once attacked 
by the disease seldom recover. 

An anomTuous contributor to the Gardener's ^lagazine, Vol. IX. p. 245, 
observes that the best preventive is placing the plants, during summer, 
behind a wall, hedge, or other shelter ; so that they may be shaded frons 
the rays of the sun five or six hours in the hottest part of the day, without 
having recourse to awnings of any kind ; likewise, to house them early in 
autumn, in houses where tlie sashes can be drawn ofif in fine weather, and 
put on to protect them from heavy rains. For the more delicate species, 
generally kept in pits and fr'ames in summer, the ]3est preventive is to use 
lights glazed with green glass, keeping the hghts on fi'om nine o'clock in 
the morning till six o'clock in the evening, and giving plenty- of air, by 

* 'Wildenow says it is occasioned by the growth of a fungus, the Mucar 
Erysiphe Linncei] or by a whitish slime 'deposited on the plant by some species 
of aphides. — KeiWs Botanical Lejclco/K 



TREATMEXT OUT OF DOORS, 



71 



tilting the lights up at the back of the pits and frames, but never to use 
shading of any description. The Hghts to be drawn entirely off during 
the night, except in rainy weather. With this mode of treatment, slight 
waterings over head occasionally are beneficial." 

Heaths are not very subject to the attacks of insects ; the greenfly, 
howeyer, sometimes assails them, but these are readily got rid of by shght 
fumigations of tobacco. 

GENERAL TREATMENT OUT OF DOORS. 

A want of suflicient accommodation induces many to place a part if not 
aU their heaths, as well as other greenhouse plants, out of doors ; and 
habit, we beUeve, induces many more. The hardier and more free-growing 
kinds may not suffer much from this practice, but the finer and more 
deUcate sorts evidently do. "^^'e believe the rationale of turning exotic 
plants into the open air, is to adopt the least of two e^ils ; for if they be 
kept under glass during the growing season, and closely crowded together, 
they suffer as much for want of fresh air as they would do if placed in a 
sheltered situation in the open garden. It will be the most prudent 
method to adopt, to take out only such as are hardy and robust, leaving 
the more rare and tender sorts under cover ; in which they wiU then have 
plenty of room. 

The season for taking heaths out of the house commences about the 
end of April, when some of the hardiest kinds may be set out ; the next 
hardier section in ^lay, and the next in June, retaining by all means the 
most tender of aU in the house. A dry, sheltered, but not shaded 
situation should, if possible, be chosen for them, — dry, to protect them 
from a damp and impm'e atmosphere, — sheltered, to prevent them from 
being broken or upset by the wind, and shaded only to the extent necessary' 
to secure them from the fuU force of the sun's rays during the heat of the 
day. A somewhat elevated platform, covered v,ith coal ashes, should be 
formed for them, upon which they should stand, without being plunged. 
If the spaces between the pots were filled with sphagnum, hypnum, or 
other mosses, the whole might be made ornamental and extremely useful ; 
first, by hiding the pots, and, secondly, by preventing the heat of the 
sun, which is very injm^ious, from acting upon the roots, which are 
extremely fine, dehcate, and always placed round the extremity of the 
balls, and in close contact ^vith the pot. To avoid this, to save labour in 
watering, and to prevent them from being blown down, some recommend 
plunging them in the ground, or in the coal ash floor prepared for them ; 
but this latter practice is, we think, objectionable, as the roots are \ery 



72 



THE HEATHERY. 



liable to perish from cold and excess of humidity. Lines of cord should 
be stretched along the plant ground, and fastened to neat poles or stakes ; 
to these cords the plants should be individually fixed, to prevent their 
being blov^n down. 

From the end of September till the beginning of November is the proper 
season for removing plants again into the house, and a somewhat similar 
system should be acted upon as recommended for taking them out ; only, 
those last taken out should be first taken into the house, and the next in 
.rotation. During summer, water should be copiously supplied, not only 
at their roots, but occasionally over their leaves and branches, by using 
the syringe or garden engine. But this must only be understood to apply 
to very hot and dry weather. Heaths, and all plants grown in peat 
earth, should never be allowed to become very dry at the root ; for, from 
the nature of the soil, it is difficult to supply a sufficient degree of moisture 
to them after they have become very dry. 

SOIL. 

There is no subject in gardening more difficult to give written directions 
upon, than that of soils, so little, unfortunately, have they been chemically 
studied, and so vague and unintelligible are the tests by which they are 
practically known. The soil which the Ericece and many other fine- 
rooted plants prefer, is called peat, bog mould, heath mould, moor earth, 
&c., and abounds in sufficient quantities in many places, paiticularly in 
uncultivated heaths. But of this soil there are both good and bad sorts, 
that is, sorts in which plants mil grow to perfection, and others in 
which they languish and decay. Nor is it to be taken for granted that 
that peat which produces the finest and healthiest crops of our common 
heaths, such as Erica TetralioCj and cinerea, is always a fitting soil to 
be used for exotic plants of similar habits ; for many, by contenting them- 
selves vdth this test, have found out their error, when too late to remedy it. 
That peat is best which contains about one fourth or one fifth of coarse 
white sand, and is taken fi'om a diy heathy common, which is never over- 
flowed with water, and off a sub-soil in which the recently discovered 
chemical substance, creasote^ which has deleterious effects upon aU. 
vegetables, does not abound. It might be well for the cultivator to have 
a chemical analysis made of his soil, by which the presence or absence 
of creasote would be determined, and which any respectable chemist 
would discover for him. When abundance of sand does not naturally 
abound in the peat, any coarse white sand, free of irony matter, may be 
added. It appears to be of httle consequence whether or not good peat 



SOIL FOU HEATHS. 



73 



be prepared for any previous period in the compost yard prior to using ; 
we rather think that the sooner it is used the better. As a substitute for 
peat, some have recommended very rotten dung, decayed leaves, &c., 
having a due proportion of gritty sand added ; and others have suggested 
the addition of very rotten manure to be used vdth peat, with a view to 
increase the rapidity of the growth of the plants. The former may be 
used, in default of better, for hardy American plants, but the addition of 
the latter is by no means to be recommended. 

A very interesting paper appeared in the first volume of the Gardener's 
Magazine, on the culture of Cape heaths, by Mr. J. Bowie, a botanical 
collector employed by the directors of the Kew garden, and who, having 
had ample opportunities of studying the natural habits of the genus, 
arrived at the following conclusions ; viz., that the soil in which the seeds of 
heaths should be sown, ought to be rather sandy than boggy ; the soil for 
the first potting off of seedlings should be three fourths sandy peat and one 
quarter sandy loam. For the first shifting of young plants, one half sandy 
peat and one half sandy loam ; for the second shifting, one fourth sandy 
peat and three fourths sandy loam ; and for the third and future shiftings, 
sandy loam only. To show the propriety of such treatment, Mr. Bowie 
has selected the foUovring list of sorts, stating the nature of the soils and 
situations in which they are found in their natural state. 



Linnasoides 

Tubiflora 

Colorans 

Albens 

Ampullacea 

Retorta 

Ardens 

Fastig-iata 

Fascicularis 

Caffra 
Eriocephala 
Gelida 
Halicacaba 

Viscaria 

Blaerioides 

Viridiflora 

Sebana 
Sexfaria 
Plukenetii 
Baccans 

Massoni 

Calycina 

Retorta 

Walkeri 

GraciUs 



I In runmng waters and springy grounds, a black vegetable 
I soil. 



Shattered sandstone rocks, little or no soil, the roots embrac- 
'^ing the stones in the crevices. 



1 Similar situations to the last section, but they thrive more 
r freely in the moist chfts, 3000 feet above the sea. 

^ Decomposed sandstone, shaded by Scirpoidae, &c. 



I Decomposed schistus, lower parts of the mountains and second- 
r ary hills, exposed to drought. 



[ In pure sand, exposed to heat and drought on the mountains, 
[from 2000 to 5000 feet above the sea's level. 



74 



THE HEATHERY. 



I In sand on the lower plains, frequently on spots abounding 
j with natron. ° 

J 

In loam, with iron pyrites, on the exposed plains and second- 
-ary mountains, enduring drought at times for several months. 

Decomposed schistus, on the stream in deep shaded glens. 

I In stiflf loam and margins of woodlands, moist glens, &c., sur- 
r rounded by various Pelargoniums, Scirpoidae, &c. 

The soils in which the plants of the first and fourth of the above 
sections are found, approach nearly, Mr. Bowie observes, to some of our 
soils, but not precisely ; he adds, that with the exception of those in 
the above two sections, no bog earth is wanting : it only, in liis opinion, 
serves to weaken their growth, whereas a good sandy loam would strengthen 
them, and insure good flowering plants for years. 

WATER. 

Soft water alone should be used for watering plants of every denomina- 
tion : that from a pond or large river, or such as is collected in cisterns 
from the roofs of buildings, to be preferred. AYater pumped from wells, 
and such as may be procured from springs, should be exposed for as long 
a period as possible to the action of the sun and air before it can be usefully 
apphed to plants. Water impregnated with mineral matter, such as 
iron, salt, &c., should be carefully avoided ; and that containing much 
calcareous matter is injmious to many plants, and to none more so than 
the genus Erica. . 

SHIFTING, OR POTTING. 

Early in spring appears, from practical observation, to be the most 
proper time for shifting or potting plants of this order that they may 
make roots during summer : but to this rule there are some exceptions, 
namely, the state of health of such individuals as require shifting into 
other pots at various periods of the year. All plants whose roots have 
completely filled the pots, and whose balls are hai'd in consequence. 



Mammosa 
Metuliflora 
Cerinthoides 
Ignescens 
Grandiflora 

Vestita 
Filamentosa 
Cerinthoides 
Cruenta 
Versicolor 
Triflora 

Urceolaris 
Persoluta 
Arborescens 

Vestita 
Versicolor 
Discolor 
Hirta 



SHIFTING AND POTTING. 



75 



should be shifted mto pots of one size larger. All plants that appear in 
a weak and sickly condition, should be turned out of the pots and the 
roots examined, the dead ones cut away, the sour and exhausted mould 
displaced, and then planted into a pot somewhat smaller than that out of 
which it was taken, ^^Tien a pot feels heavier than usual, it is a sign 
that the ball has absorbed too much water, either from an excess of that 
element having been supplied, or, as is more generally the case, from im- 
perfect di'aining. "When such is the case, reduce the ball, prune the roots, 
and re-pot it as recommended above. The mould should be prepared by 
being chopped fine, or even put through a coarse sieve, of not less than 
one inch in the mesh, unless, indeed, the plants be young ; for very 
large plants the mould may even be much coarser than that which will 
pass through a sieve of the above dimensions. Whether for large or 
small plants, it is absolutely necessary that the mould be dry at the time 
of potting, as should also be the pots into which the plants are to be put. 
It is not always necessary that new pots should be used, but care should 
be taken that they are clean, and selected of sizes to suit the plants to be 
operated on. 

In potting, draining is of the first importance ; for this purpose from one 
to three inches, according to the size of the pot, should be filled mth 
broken pots, cinders, small stones, chippings of freestone, or small pebbles, 
over a piece of potsherd or oyster shell, placed over the hole in the bottom 
of the pot : over this drainage a thin layer of dry moss should be placed, 
to prevent the finer earthy particles from being washed down, and to stop 
the cavities through which the superfluous water is intended to pass ; and 
as the various species of moss, hypna^ &c., have the property of absorb- 
ing humidity, and also of retaining it for a considerable time, the roots 
will by this means be kept cool and moist, much to their advantage. 

In placing the plant in a new pot, it has been recommended to keep 
the top of the ball considerably above the level of the top of the pot : 
in so far as the plant is concerned, this is admitted to have rather an un- 
sightly appearance. The rationale of this mode of potting appears to be, 
that it prevents the plant suifering from excess of water, as the ball at the 
stem of the plant is so much above the level of the part next to the pot, 
that the water, instead of finding its way into the centre of the ball, 
passes down between it and the pot, where are all the roots that are capable 
of absorbing it for the use of the plant ; the superabundant water passing 
olf through the drainage. 

The balls of heaths, if in good health, do not require to be broken, as 
is necessary with some other plants ; it is in general sufficient if the sides 



76 



THE HEATHERY. 



of the balls be gently patted with the hand to loosen the outside fibres, 
which, in healthy plants, will be found in abundance round the outside of 
the ball, nor should any plant be shifted until such is the case. 

It appears to us that the free or luxuriant growing sorts thrive best in 
rather large pots, and in a peat soil not over sandy, while the slow grow- 
ing and slender sorts require much smaller pots, and a soil in wliich more 
sand abounds, either naturally or by addition ; it is also necessary- that the 
pots into which the latter are to be placed should be completely drained. 
The latter also requires at all times much less water, because they are, for 
the most part, found indigenous in soils and on situations where little soil 
and less moistui'e abounds. 

BL^RIA AND SYMPIEZA. 

Two genera which very much resemble heaths ; natives of the Cape of 
Good Hope, and requiring exactly the same treatment as Erica. 

EPACRIS. 

This beautiful genus thrives best in xerj sandy turf mould, of a peaty 
nature. Cuttings strike best when taken off during winter or early in 
spring ; they seldom succeed when struck during summer. They should 
be planted in sand, and placed under bell glasses ; their treatment other- 
wise, is not different from that recommended above for Erica. 

SPRENGELIA, ANDERSONIA, AND LYSINEMA, 

Have much of the Epacris in habit. They are propagated by cuttings 
of the young wood, and also from imported seeds, exactly in the same 
manner as Epacris and Erica, requiring the same soil and general treat- 
ment. 

DRACOPHYLLUM. 

This is a singular genus of plants, very difficult to increase other- 
wise than by seeds, and these are seldom imported, at least if they are 
they seldom grow, for D. secundum is in particular a very rare plant. 
Cuttings of the half-ripened shoots have been rooted in sand under a 
glass in a moderate heat. 

ASTROLOMA AXD STYPHELIA. 

These are increased by cuttings, and require the same soil and after- 
treatment with Andersonia. 



GEXERA OF SIMILAE HABIT. 



77 



GXAPHALirM, METALASIA, ASTELMA, ELICHHYSUM, HELICHRYSUM, 
PH^XOCOMA, AND APHELEXIS. 

These are greenhouse plants of very great beaut}-, and formerly stood 
under the names of GnajjJiaUum and EUchrymm. All of them are readily 
increased by seeds, "vrhich often ripen in this country, and are sometimes 
imported from the Cape of Good Hope, from -whence most of them come. 
The seeds should be sown as soon as ripe, or as soon as receiyed, in hght 
sandy peat soil, placed in a dry^ any situation, in a pit or greenhouse. 
When they vegetate and are about an inch high, they should be potted off 
into small pots, three or four plants in each, as recommended for heaths. 
The hard-TTooded species have been by most cultivators considered very 
difficult to increase by cuttings, but if they be planted in sand in a brisk 
hotbed and left uncovered, they vdll root freely. Even pieces of con- 
siderable size of Phcenocoma prolifera^ one of the handsomest of the 
tribe, have been successfully propagated in this manner. These plants are 
much admii'ed on accoimt of the beauty of their flowers ; and from the 
circumstance of their retaining then* colours and perfect forms long after 
they are cut, they have obtained the name of everlasting flowers. Sandy 
peat soil is the most suitable for them when rooted, and the same after- 
treatment as recommended for Ericas will suit them. 

ADEXAXDRA, BARYOSMA, AGATHOSMA, AXD DIOSMA, 

Were originally ranged under the genus Diosma. This is a section of 
handsome plants, bearing some resemblance to heaths, and flowering 
abundantly. To many the scent of this tribe is unpleasant, while with 
others it is quite the reverse. Cuttings of the tips of the young shoots 
root freely-planted in sand, and placed in a cool place under a bell glass. 
Many of them ripen their seeds in our gardens, from which a stock 
is soon procured. They prefer a soil similar to Heaths, and prosper best 
when treated in the same manner as that delightful family. 

CORR^A. 

This genus strikes freely, if we except C. speciosa. The cuttings should 
be taken off the ripened wood, planted in sand in autumn, and allowed to 
stand till spring in a cool pit, when they should be placed upon a shght 
bottom heat and left uncovered ; they will soon strike root, and may then 
be potted off into small pots, and hardened to stand in the greenhouse. 
C. speciosa is better to be enarched or grafted on stocks of C. alba ; by 
this means large plants wiU be obtained in a short time. A hght sandy 



78 



THE HEATHERY. 



peat in well-drained pots is required for them ; their other treatment 
dilfers not from that of plants admitted into the Heathery. 

BOROXIA. 

This is a valuable genus, floTvering nearly all the year. Tliey are pro- 
pagated by layers, and by ripened cuttings, and some of the more difficult 
rooting sorts are successfully enarched upon B. alata, which strikes more 
freely than others. Plants of these delicate habits seldom make fine 
specimens when propagated by layers ; it is better, therefore, to endeavour 
to originate them either fi*om cuttings or by enarching. The cuttings 
should be taken off at a joint, planted in sand, and placed in a mode- 
rately warm, but not hot place, and covered with a glass, which must be 
often removed to be cleared of damp. Light, turfy, sandy peat is the 
proper soil for them, and the greatest care must be taken that the pots l>e 
well chained, and in after-cultm*e that they be not injured by ha\-ing too 
much water. The treatment of the Heathery is the most proper for this 
tine genus. 

CROWE A, 

Is also a lovely genus and fi'ee flowerer. Cuttings of the young shoots 
strike freely when planted in sand, and left uncovered if in heat, but 
covered with a bell glass if kept in a cool situation. 

ERIOSTEMOX. 

This is a diiScalt genus to cultivate. Imported seeds are sometimes 
obtained, but we have found them rather difficult to vegetate. Cuttings of 
the lialf-ripeued wood have been struck under a glass in a light sandy soil. 
^Mieii seeds can be obtained, they should be so^vn in the same soil the 
plant is to be grown in. and as they sometimes remain a long time without 
vegetating, the seed pots should not be thrown away under eighteen 
mouiiis. Light, tiu'iy peat soil, and the general treatment of the Heathery, 
is the best for them, taking care that they are not kept too damp. 

The phmts we have selected fi'om the natm*al order Leguminoss, viz., 

CYCLOPIA, OXYLOBirM, GASTROLOEIVM. PrLTEX_EA, AOTUS, EUTAXIA, 
DAVIESIA. CHORIZEMA. PODOLOBIUAI. DILLWYXIA. GOMPHOLOBIU M, LIPA- 
RIA, BOSST-EA. PLATYLOBII'M. SCOTTIA. TEMPLETOXIA. HOTEA. and LOD* 

DiGESiA. are all extremely beanrhrd. but are not by any means, if we 
except the last, easily multiplied otiier^ise than by seeds ; all of them 
when old enough ripen seeds in rlii; .je^Vir^ " ?eeds of most species 
are easily procm-edfrom Ne'v IlL llaiid. v^d-.: _ them are indigenous. 



SELECT LIST OF HEATHS. 



79 



It is a curious fact that few papilionaceous woody plants increase readily by 
cuttings, or the other ordinary means used, but all of them produce seeds 
in abundance, and these vegetate freely. The best mode of increasing 
the genera under consideration, is certainly by seeds ; some of them will 
strike by cuttings, but it is both a tedious and precarious process ; yet, 
nevertheless, we are often compelled to adopt it. Young wood is generally 
chosen, and that planted in sand under bell glasses is considered the 
best plan. The soil in which this splendid assemblage of plants seems to 
flourish is light, turfy peat, although Chorizema is often found to grow 
luxuriantly in a loamy soil. Loddigesia strikes root freely, the young 
shoots being planted in sand and a glass placed over them. 



SELECT LIST OF ERICAS, OR HEATHS. 



WHI-] 

Six to eighteen 

Clear-flowered. (E. perspicua.) Flow- 
ers from March to June. 

Transparent. (E, transparens.) Flow- 
ers in May. 

Elongated. {E. elongata.) Flowers 
from February to November. 

Bowie's. {E. Botvieana.) Flowers 
from Aug"ust to December. 

Smooth. {E. glabra.) Flowers from 
May to August. 

Trby's. {E. Irhyana.) Flowers from 
June to October. 

Lady Shannon's. {E. SJiannoniana.) 
Flowers in June. 

Lady Cliiford's. {E. CUffordiana.) 

Excelling. {E. prcestans.) FlOAYers 
from June to November. 

Peaked. {E. fastigiata.) Flowers from 
;May to September. 

Muscari. {E, Muscari.) Flowers from 
March to July. 

Spruce. {E. trossida.) Flowers from 
April to May. 

Tliree-flowered. {E. triflora.) Flowers 
from March to June. 

Lachnea-leaved. ( E. lachruefoUa. ) 
Flowers from May to July.) 

Black-tipped. {E. nigrita'.) Flowers 
from March to Jnne. 

Wanton. {E. salax.) Flowers from 
April to May. 

Phylica-like. {E. phylicoides,) Flow- 
ers from April to June. ' 



inches high. 

Incurved. {E. incurva.) Flowers from 
May to July. 

Wooly-flowered. {E. vellerijlora.) Flow- 
ers in June. 

Brunia-like. {E. hruniades.) Flowers 
from April to June. 

Flaccid. {E. flaccida.) Flowers in 
May. 

Six-parted. {E. sexfaria.) Flowers 

from May to August. 
Opposite-leaved. ( E. oppositifolia. ) 

Flowers from March to May. 
Two-flowered. {E. biflora.) ' Flowers 

from April to Januaiy. 
Frothy. (E. spumosa.) Flowers from 

May to August. 
PvTola - flowered. ( E. pi/rolcejlara. ) 

Flowers from May to Jiily. 
Lambert's. {E. Lcmhertiana.) Flow- 
ers from ]May to August. 
Pearl-flowered. {E . margaritacea. ) 

Flowers from ^IMay to September. 
Softest. {E. molUssima.) Flowers in 

May. 

Close-headed. E. congesta.) Flowers 
from June to July. 

Cestus-leaved. {E. cisfifoUa.) Flowers 
from May to June. 

Perfumed. {E. odorata.) Flowers 
from April to July. 

Pure. {E. piira.) Flowers from Au- 
gust to September. 



80 



THE HEATHERY. 



Crowded-flowered. ( E. conferla. ) 

Flowers from February to ( )ctober. 
Snowy. {E. nivea.) Flowers from 

April to May. 
Villous. {E. viUosa.) Flowers from 

February to June. 
Heart-leaved. {E. cordata.) Flowers 

from April to June. 
Reflexed. {E. reflejca.) Flowers from 

May to June. 
AVhite-anthered. ( E. leucayithera. ) 

Flowers from January to May. 
Pitcher-flowered. {E. urceolaris.) Flow- 
ers from May to July. 
Rising-. {E. assurgens.) Flowers from 

May to June. 
Caftrarian. {E.caffra.) Flowers from 

February to October. 
Hoary. (E. incana.) Flowers from 

Juiie to August. 



Protruding. {E. protrudenf.) Flowers 

from April to May. 
Ziz-zas:. (E.flejruosa.) Flowers from 

April to July. 
Rou?hish. {E. scabrimcula.) Flowers 

from May to June. 
^^^litish. [E. albens.) Flowers from 

March to Ausrust. 
Very-flowery. {£. bryantha.) Flowers 

from June to July. 
Silver-flowered. '( E. nrgentiiforn. ) 

Flowers from April to Julv. 
Bearded. {E. barbata.) Flowers from 

May to Aug^ist. 
Retroflexed. (E. retrnffexa.) Flower- 

from July to September. 
Spear-leaved. (E. laticeo/afa.) F,ow- 

ers from June to December. 
Three-headed. (E. triceps.) Flowers 

from May to June. 



From eighteen inci 

Pencilled-flowered. [E. peniciUiflora.) i 

Flowers from April to July. 
Cylindrica. {E. cylindrica.) Flowers ' 

"from ^lay to June. j 
Softy. {E. procera.) Flowers from ' 

April to June. i 
Pellucid. (E. peUucida.) Flowers from ' 

June to November. 
Coloring:. {E. colorans.) Flowers from 

April to June. 
Pine-leaved. {E. pitgophylla.) Flowers 

from Februarv to Julv. 
Clothed. {E. vest it a.) Flowers all the 1 

vear. I 
Ladv Monson-s. {E. Mousoniana.) i 

Flowers from April to September. ; 
Dickenson's. {E. Dichensonii.) Flow- 
ers from 3Iay to August. 
Jasmine-flowered. {E. jasminijiora.) 

Flowers from June to Ausrust. 
Flask. {E. ampuUacea.) Flowers from 

June to Ausrust. 
Aiton's. {E. Aitoniana.) Rowers from 

Juue to September. 
Conquering-. (E. triiunphans.) Flowers 

from ;Mav to June. 
Bright. [E. nifida.) Flowers from 

July to October. 



es and upwards. 

Tree. {E. arborea.) Flowers from 
February to June. 

Meagre. [E. strigosa.) Flowers from 
April to Julv. 

Marum-leaved. (£. marifoVia.) Flow- 
ers from May to June. ' 

Helianth-leaved. {E. helianthemt folia.) 
Flowers from February* to April. 

AYhite-pencilled. {E. peniciUiJlora.) 
Flowers from May to Augrust. " 

Villous. {E. viUosa.) Flowers from 
February to June. 

Sparrow-wort. {E. passerina.) Flow- 
ers from May to November. 

Milk-flowered. (£. lactiUora.) Flowers 
from June to September. 

Acute-ansrled. {E. acutangula.) Flow- 
ers from March to April. 

Deflexed. {E. dellexa.) Flowers in 
Julv. 

TVhitish. (E. alhida.) Flowers from 
May to September. 

Bell-iiowered. (E. noheflora.) Flowers 
from March to May. * 

Daphne-like. (£. daphnoides.) Flow- 
ers from ]May to June. 



rUEPLE. 



to eight 

Round-headed. (E. eephaJoies.) Flow- 
ers from May to July. 

Parcel -flowered. {E. fascicularis. ) 
Flowers from Febmar^- to June. 

Diaphanous. {E. diaphana.) Flowers 
from June to July. 

Trumpet-fonued-fiowered. {E. buccini- 
formis.) Flowers from June to July. 



'7t inches high. 

Niven's. {E. Xivefiiana.) Flowers 

from February- to July. 
Admii'able. (E. tnirabilis.) Flowers 

from 3Iay to June. 
Turg:id. (E. turgida.) Flowers from 

April to July. 
Modest. {E. rnodesta.) Flowers from 

April to ^'tlay. 



SELECT LIST OF HEATHS, 



81 



Oval-flowered. I'E. ovaUflora.) Row- 
ers from Jmie to July. 

Ols's. {E. Cehii,} Flowers from June 
to July. 

Yew-leaTed. (E. taxifoUa.) Flowers 

from July to XoTem'ber. 
Fragi'ant. ' (£. fragrans.) Flowers 

from March to Jime. 
Sub-bristly-stemmed. (E. ]us2)klula..) 

Rowers 'from June to Au'just. 
Qustered. \E, aggregate' a Flowers 

fi'om July to Auguist. 
Pleasins:. 'iE. a.inoma^ Flowers fi'om 

Marcli to July. 
Early. (E. prcecox.) Flowers from 

January to ?>Iarcli. 
Garland-flower. {E. persohita.) Flow- 
ers from February to ^lay. 



Pubescent. (E. ^rahescens.) Flowers 

from February to December. 
Cube-flowered. ' (E. cuhica.) Rowers 
from April to July, 
i Delicate. iE. tenella.) Rowers from 
I ^lay to Aug-ust. 

' Limicta-like. (E. Linn<^oides.) Row. 

ers from February to ]\Iay. 
; Linneeus'. \E. Linncsana:) Rowers 
\ from January to [May. 
; Clotb-flowered! (£. y;r///r/o.y«.) Rowers 
' from February to June. 
! TVooly. {E. lanuginosa^ Rowers 
: January to Septeniber. 
' Denticulated. \E, denticidata:) Row- 
j er^ from April to jlay. 
j Cowslip-like. {E. primidokle^s.) Row- 
1 ers from April. 



From eighteen inci 

RoUinson's. iE. RoUinsomi.) Rowers 

from June to July. 
jIammo_se. [E, niammosa.) Rowers 

from July to October. 
Glutinous.' iE. glutinosa.) Rowers 

from July to October. i 
Vamisli-flo^ering". {E, vernicijfora.) \ 

Flowers from jiarcli to September. ; 
Bandon's. (E. Bandoniana.) Flowers 

from July to August. 
iNeatisb. \E. munduJa.) Rowers from , 

February to October. j 
Xoble. CE. nobills.) Rowers from ' 

April to July. 
Large-calwved. (E. calycina.) Rowers 

from ]\l"ay to July. 
Obliciue. \E. ohliqua,) Rowers from 

May to Jrdv= 



^.es and u;jv:a.rds, 

Snining-. \E. n'i-ens:^ Rowers from 

June to SepTr:iii: rr, 
Tonientose. i^. ruinentosa,) Rowers 

from June to July. 
Star-bearing'. iE. 'steUifera,) Rowers 

fi-om April to July. 
Constantia, li:. Con^tantia.) Flowers 

from [\Iarcli to August. 
Pot-flowered. {E, crossata:) Rowers 

from IMay to June. 
Graceiid. 'iE. decora.) Rowers fi'om 

January to November. 
Small-brancby. iE.rarnulosa.) Rowers 

from June to July. 
Urnbelled. iE. urnleUaia,) Rowers 

from ]\Iay to July, 
^lagnificent. iE. rnagnJAca.) Rowers 

from Au2."ust to XoTember, 



^ix to eigTdeen 

Pliikenet's. iE. Plukenetu.) Rowers ; 

from Ayjril to July. j 
Elackmoutlied. iE'. rnelastoma.) Row- 
ers fi'om jlay to July. 
Ig-nescent. [E. igne-scens,) Rowers 
^from iNlarcb to June. 
Glandulous-baired. (E. gJandidosa.) 

Rowers from ]^.Iav to Juiie. 
Pellucida-like. (E. peU'/cidloldes.) 

Rowers from August to ZNOvember. 
Sweating". iE. exudani.^ Flowers 

from October to Xovember. 
Rusty. iE. ferruginea.) Rowers fi'om 

Zday to July. 
Pointed - lr : "^ b i E. acurnuw.ta.) 

Flowers " - to October. 

Dense. _ . i Rowers from 

^lay to -Li^'u^c. 
Slender, ih. tenuis.) Rowers from ' 

July to August. 



inches Tdgh, 

Tufted. [E. comosa.) Rowers from 

i . - I Aug-ust. 
Sn ~ - 1. iE. aristella.) Rowers 

from June t_o July. 
Julv. iE. Juliana.) Rowers from 

Julv. 

Red-bracted. (E. hracteata.) Rowers 
from Alay to Jmie. 

Gowned. \E. togata.) Rowers from 
June to July. 

Cbannelled. 'iE. canaUcuIata.) Row- 
ers from February to August. 

Callous. {E. ccdlo'sa.) Rowers from 
Jime to July. 

Spot -flowered. (E. gidtceflora.) Row- 
ers fi'om ]May to August. 

Side-flowered. (E. hderoJis.) Rowers 
from ISIarcli to Julv, 

Savile's. (E. Savi'leana.) Flowers 
from June to July. 



82 



THE HEATHERY. 



Panicled. (E. jjaniculafa.) Rowers 
from February to April. 

Mucous. (E. mucosa.) Flowers from 
February to August. 

Ramentaceous. ( E. ramentacea. ) 
Flowers from July to December. 

Slenderest. {E. tenuissima.) Flowers 
from Februaiy to August. 

Approximate, (E. apjn'oximata.) Flow- 
ers from May to July. 



Regrerminatins:. {E. regerminam.) 

Flowers from May to August. 
Little tree. {E. arbu^cula.) Flowers 

from Februaiy to August. 
Pretty. E. pul'chella.) Flowers from 

June to September. 
Beautiful. (E. hella.) Flowers from 

January to October. 



From eighteen inches and upxcards. 



Sliovvy. (E. speciosa.) Flowers from 

June to September. 
Translucent. {E. translucens.) Flowers 

from May to August. 
Tliree-leaved. {E. triphijUa.) Flowers 

from July to November. 
Long-kavea. (E. longifoUa.) Rowers 

from February to JiilV. 
Pine-leaved. (E. pihea.) Rowers 

from August to December. 
Rax-like. "(E. Vmoides.) Rowers from 

July to September. 
Massbn's. {E. Massoni.) Rowers 

from July to October. 
Pectinated-lea-ved. {E. pecf in [folia.) 

Rowers from June to November. 
Swainson's. (E. Swaiusoni.) Rowers 

from July to October. 
Three-coloiu'ed. {E. tricolor.) Rowers 

from June to July. 



Temple's. (£. Templeana.) Rowers 
from July to August. 

Swelled. {E. prcegnans.) Rowei-s 
from ]May to July. ' 

Ampuilacea-like. '{E. ampuUuceoid^^.) 
Flowers from May to July. 

Broadley's. {E. Broadleyana.) Row- 
ers from May to July. ' 

Solander's. {E. Solai'idra.) Rowers 
from August to November. 

Mitre-formed. {E. mitrceformis.) Row- 
ers from June to July.' 

Broad-leaved. {E. latlfolia.) Rowers 
from May to Aug-ust. 

Clammy-ll6wered."(£^. viscaria.) Row- 
ers from Marcli to July. 

Handsome. (£. fonnosa.) Rowers 
from Jmie to September. 

Canescent. {E. canesce?is.) Rowers 
fi'om Marcli to October. 



PALE RED. 

Six to eight 6671 inches high. 

Pale. (E.paUens.) Rowers from June Meagre. (E. strigosa.) Rowers from 

to August. March to April. 

Resli-coiom-ed. {E. incarnata.) Row- Funnel-shaped. {E. infiindihidiformis.^ 

ers from Febmaiy to June. Rowers from August to November. 



ORAXGE. 

Six to eighteen inches high. 



Saw-leaved. {E. serratifolia.) Flowers 

from AugTist to December. 
Sparmann's. {E. Sparmanni.) Rowers 

from ]March to September. 
Rising. {E. exsurgens.) Rowers all 

the year. 

Ninepin-flowered. {E. rnetidcjpflora.) 
Flowers from June to Au^ist.' 



Thunberg's. {E. TJiunbergia.) Row- 
ers from May to August. 

Seba's. {E. Sebana.) Rowers from 
]\Iarch to June. 

Cnanging-coloured. {E. versicolor.) 
Flower^s from ]May to November. 

Hibbert's. {E. Hibbertiana.) Rowers 
from June to September. 



From eighteen inches and upicards. 



Painted. (E. jt^/cfa.) Rowers from 

July to October. 
Patersonia-like. {E. Patersonioides.) 

Rowers from Apiil to August. 
Gold-colom-ed. {E. aurea'.) Rowers 

from July to September. 



Lee's. {E. Leeana.) Rowers from 

Jiilv to Au2:ust. 
Tall. ■ {E. elata.) Rowers from July 

to September. 



SELECT LIST OF HEATHS, 



83 



YELLOW. 



From ^ijc to eig 

Virescent. {E. virescens.) Rowers in 
May. 

DuU-yellow. (E. gilva.) Flowers from 
May to June. 

Onosma-flowered. (E. onosm4^flora.) 
Flowers n-om Mai'cii to September. 

Rongli. {E. aspera.) Flowers from 
May to Jmie. 

Red rdg-Mstiade. {E. Halicacaha.) 
Rowers from ]May to August. 

Yellow. (E. lutea.) Flowers from 
Februar;.- to May. 

Bonpland's. {E. BonpIancUana.) Row- 
ers ft-om Marcb to September. 

Downy-beaded. {E. capitata.) Row- 
ers from March to July. 



hteen inches high. 

I LordBlandford's. (E. Bland fordiania.) 
; Rowers from March to June, 
t Bell-llowered. ( E. campanulata. ) 
1 Flowers from AprU to Ausnist. 
! Three-ieayed^yellow. (E.f.ava.) Row- 
' ers from April to September. 
I Interwoven. (E. intertejca.) Rowers 
from Jime to July. 
Thalicti-um-flowere'd. (E. thaUctri- 
flora.) Rowers from March to Z\Iay. 
Depressed. K_E. depressa.) Rowers 

from June to August. 
Dwarf. (E. Rowers from May 

to August. 



From eighteen inches and upicards. 



Petiver's. (E. Petiverii.) Rowers 
from March to July. 

Great-Lowered. ( E. grandiflora. ) 
Rowers from May to September. 

Spout-flowered. {E. epistomia.) Row- 
ers from May to June. 

Spiked- {E. spicata.) Rowers all the 
year. 

Paterson's. {E. Patersonlana.) Row- 
ers from March to August. 



Sulphur. {E. sidphurea.) Rowers 
from June to July. 

Curre-flowered. {E. currifiora.) Row- 
ers from July to October. 

Sprengel's. (iJ. Sprengelii.) Rowers 
from June to July. 

Rat-flowered. {E. complanata.) Row- 
ers from May to July. 



SCARLET. 

Sijc to eighteen inches high. 

Expanded. (E. expansa.) Rowers , Princely. {E. princeps.) Rowers from 

from May to September. i Mav to July. 

Pinaster-leaved. [E. pinastrifoUa.) Tumid. (E.'tumida.) Rowers from 

Rowers from July to August. May to Semptember. 

Gem-bearing. yE. gemmifera.) Rowers Echiiun-flowered. ( E. echiijfora. ) 

from May~to July. " Rowers from February to June. 



From eighteen inches and upicards. 



TVhorled. (E. verticillata.j Rowers 

from July to October. 
Choice-red! (E. exirnia.) Rowers 

from June to July. 
Shining. (E. sptendens.) Rowers 

from April to September. 
Refulgent. (E. refulgens.) Rowers 

from April to Julv. 
Honey-woit-like. ( E. cerinthoides. ) 

Rowers from May to Xovember. 



Glowing. (E. ardens.) Rowers from 
April to June. 

Lady Ai'cher's. ( E. Archeriana. ) 
Flowers from August to Xovember. 

'Wooly-flowered. CE.laniflora.) Flow- 
ers from March to August. 

Imperial. (E. imperidlis.) Rowers 
from r^Iav to Julv. 



G 2 



84 



THE HEATHERY. 



GREEN. 

Six to eighteen inches high. 



Hang-ing down. (E. demissa.) Flowers 
from April to May. 

Clubbed. (E. clavata,) Flowers from 
July to Auffust. 

Club-flowered. {E. clavtejlora. Flow- 
ers from August to October. 



Musk-scented. (E. moschata.) Flow- 
ers from IMay to July. 

Elegant. (E. elegans.) Flowers from 
March to November. 

Pilose. (E. pilosa.) Flowers from 
June to July. 



From eighteen inches and upwards. 



Sandal-flowered. (E. soccijlora.) Flow- 
ers from April to, INIay. 

Ice-cold. (E. gelida.) Flowers from 
April to July. 

Green and purple. (E. viridipurpurea.) 
Flowers from May to August. 



Green-flowered. (E. viridis.) Flowers 

from May to September. 
Tsvo-colour. (E. bicolor.) Flowers 

from March to October. 
Broom. (E. scoparia.) Rowers from 

April to May. 



CRIMSON. 

Six to eighteen inches high. 



Bloody. (E. sanguinea.) Flowers all 
the year. 

Mutable. (E. mutaUlis.) Flow*ers 
from February to October. 



Radiated. (E. radiata.) Flowers from 
August to November. 




A Heath, showing Mr. M'Nab's manner ot potting. 



I 



i 



ClLOJ-izema Caraata. j Epacxis graiidificira . 
EprtcrisA^aj-iairiilis ' Chorizejiia Cviiia. 



85 



SELECT LIST OF PLANTS, 

REQUIRING THE SAME TREATMENT AS 

ERICA, 

AND CALCULATED TO BE GROWN IN THE SAME STRUCTURE. 



Side-flowering- Dracophylluin. {Draco- | 
phyllum secundum.) Flowers in 
April and August, in sandy peat. 
Suckers. 

Louj^-leaved Dracophyllum. (Draco- 
phyUum longifoUum.) Flowers in 
April and Au^ist, in sandy peat. 
Cuttings. 

Slender Dracophylliun. {Dracophyl- 
lum gracile.) Flowers in April and 
May, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Pungent Lysinema. {Lysinema pun- 
gens.) Flowers in February and 
April, in loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Attenuated Lysinema. ( Lysinema 
attenuatum.) Flowers in February 
and April, in loam and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Scattered Epacris. {Epacris sparsa.) 
Flowers in April and June, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. 

DrawTi-out Epacris. {Epacris eocserta.) 
Flowers in April and June, in loam 
and peat. Cuttings. 

Jamaica albescent Gnaphalium. {Ghia- 
phalium albescens.) Flowers in July 
and August, in common loam. 

Spherical Gnaphalium. {GnapJialium 
sp7i<Ericum.) Flowers in July and 
August, in common mould. Divi- 
sions. 

Diosma-leaved Heliclir>-siun. {Heli- 
chrysum cliosnuefoUum.) Flowers in 
March and August, in common 
mould. Cuttings. 

Helianthemum- leaved Helichrysum. 
( Helichrysum heUanthemifolium. ) 
Flowers in July and October, in 
common loam. Cuttings. 

Wliitened Helichrysum. {Helichrysum 
dealhatum.) Flowers all the year, 
in common loam. Cutting's. 

Silvery Helichrysum. {Helichrysum 
argenteum.) Flowers in Aprif and 
June, in common loam. Cuttings. 



Rigid-leaved Helichrysum. ( Heli- 
chrysum rigidum.) Flowers in May 
and June, in common loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Panicled Helichrysum. {Helichrysum 
paniculatum.) Flowers in June and 
September, in common loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Heath-like Aphelexis. ( Aphelexis 
ericoides.) Flowers in April and 
June, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Acuminate Ade'nandra. {Adenandra 
acuminata.) Flowers in April and 
July, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Four-angled Adenandra. {Adenandra 
tetragonal) Flowers in April and 
June, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Sweet-scented Baryosma. {Baryosma 
odorata.) Flowers in April and 
July, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Crenated Barv'osma. {Baryosma cre- 
nata.) Flowers in January and 
March, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Birch-leaved Baryosma. {Baryosma 
letulina.) Flowers in April and 
June, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Broad-leaved Agathosma. {Agathosma 
latifolia.) Rowers in July and 
August, in peat and loam. ' Cut- 
tings. 

Ciliated Agathosma. ( Agathosm-a 
ciliata.) Flowers in April and May, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Wrinkled Agathosma. {Agathosma 
rugosa.) Flowers in April and June, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Bearded Agathosma. ( Agathosma 
barbata.) Flowers in April and 
June, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Clothed Agathosma. ( Agathosm<i 
vesfita.) Flowers in April and June, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Pubescent Agathosma. ( Agathosma 
pubescens.)^ Flowers in May and 
August, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 



86 



PLAXTS REQUIRING 



Flax-leaved A2:athosma. (Agathosma | 
UnifoUa. Flowers in April and 1 
June, in peat and loam. Cuttin2:s. ' 

Succulent-leaved Diosma. (Diosma ; 
succulenta .) Rowers in April and 
June, in peat and loam. Cutting-s. 

White-flowered Diosma. ( Diosma 
aJha.) Flowers in ]\Iarcli and July, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Foui'-angled Diosma. (Diosma ietra- 
go'iiaX Flowers in July and AugTist, 
m peat and loam. Cuttings. 



Slenderest Diosma. {Diosma fe?iuii- 
sima.) Flowers in April and July, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Delicate Diosma. {Diosma tenella.) 
Flowers in April and July, in peat 
and loam. Cuttings. 

Ledum-leaved Boronia. {Boronia ledi- 
folia.) Flowers in Marcli and April, 
m sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Con,TQbose Daviesia. (Daviesia corym- 
bosa.) Flowers in May and August, 
in sandy loam and peat. Cuttings. 



WHITE. 



From three to 

Blunt-leaved Epacris. {Epacris oh- | 

tuslfolia.) Flowers in April and j 

June, in sandy peat. Cutting-s. i 

Various-stamened Epacris. {Epacris \ 

heteronema.) Flowers in April and ] 
July, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Great'-liowered Helicliiysum. " {Heli- \ 

chrysum gran diilo rum.) Flowers in i 

Januan.- and August, in sandy peat. | 

Cuttings. ' I 

Tree Heliclirysum. { Hetichrysum ■ 
arhoreum.) Flowers in February 

and August, in sandy peat. Cut- | 

tings. I 

Spreading Heliclnysum. (ReUchry- 

sum patulum.) Flowers in January ! 



six feet high. 

and August, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

"Wooly-stemmed Helichrysum. {Heli- 
chrysum lasiocaulon.) Rowers in 
January and August, in sandy peat. 
Cuttings. 

Opposite^'-leaved Diosma. {Diosma op- 
posififolia.) Rowers in March and 
Ju]y,'in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Subulate Diosma. {Diosma subulafa.) 
Flowers in March and July, in peat 
and loam. Cuttings. 

TThite Correea. {Corrcea alba.) Row- 
ers in April and June, in sandy peat. 
Cuttings. 



RED. 

From me to three feet high. 



Onosma-ilowered Epacris. (Epacris ' 

onosrnceflora.) Flowers in April and j 

June, in sandy peat. Cntiings. ; 

Fieiy-flowered Helichrysum. (Heli- \ 

chrysum ignescens. ) Flowers in June , 

and October, in sandy peat. Cut- i 

tin^s. i 

Shining-floTrered Helichrysum. (Heli- j 

chrysum rufilans.) Rowers in June j 

and August, in sandy peat. Cut- ; 

ting's. " I 

Pleasing Adenandra. ( Adenandra I 

anir£na. ) Flowers in April and June. ; 

in peat and loam. Cutting's. i 

Red Diosma. (Diosma ruora,) Row- i 

ers in ]\Iarch and 3Iay, in peat and | 

loam. Cutting's. ' ' 

Resh-coloured Pulteucea. (PuJfencPa ■ 
incarnata.) Rowers in April and 

June, in sand, loam, and peat. Cut- | 

tings. j 

Retuse -leaved Templetonia. {Temple- i 

tojiia retusa.) Rowers in ^larch < 



and January, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Glaucous Templetonia. {Templetania 
glau.ca.) Flowers in April and May, 
'in sand and peat. Cuttings. 

Winged Boronia. {Boronia alata.) 
Rowers in INIarch and January-, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Willow-leaved Eriostemon. {Eriosfe- 
mon salicifolius.) Flowers in April 
and June, m sandy peat and loam. 
Cuttings. 

Heath-leaved Eriostemon. (Erioste- 
mon ericifolius.) Rowers in April 
and August, in sand, loam, and peat. 
Cuttings. 

Lanceolate Eriostemon. (Eriostemon 
lanceolafus.) Rowers in April and 
AugTLst, in sand, loam, and peat. 
Cuttings. 

Tooth-leaved Scottia. {Scottia den- 
tat a. ) Rowers in June and Septem- 
ber, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 



THE TREATMENT OF HEATHS. 



87 



From three to six feet high. 



^mall-pointed Epacris. (Epacris mu- 
cronulata.) Flowers in April and 
July, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Marsh Epacris'. {Epacris paludosa.) 
Flowers in April and July, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. 



Linear-leaved Eriosteraon. {Erloste- 
mon linearifolius.) Flowers in April 
and August, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 



YELLOW. 



Fron one to three feet high. 



American Gnaphalinm. {Gnaphalium 
americanum.) Flowers in July and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Waved Gnaphalium. ( Gnaphalium 
undulatum. ) Flowers in Januaiy 
and August, in common loam. Frorn 
seeds. 

Sweetest-scented Helichrysum. {Heli- 
chrysum odoratissimum') Flowers in 
April and August, in sandy peat. 
Cuttings. 

Shining Helichrysum. {Heuchrysum 
fulgidum.) Flowers in February and 
October, in common loam. "Cut- 
tings* 

Herbaceous Helichiysum. {HeUchry- 
mm herbaceum.) Flowers in July 
and September, in common loam. 
Seeds. 



Spiny Oxylobium. {Oxylohium spijio- 
sum.) Flovrers in April and June, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Two-lobed Gastrolobium. ( Gastro- 
loUum hilohum.) Flowers in March 
and Z\iay, in sand, loam, and peat. 
Cuttings. 

Pultensea. The whole of this beau- 
tiful and interesting genus belongs to 
this section, with the solitary exception 
of P. incarnatum ; their flowers are all 
yellow ; they are all increased by cut- 
tings and seeds, and require a soil 
composed of sandy loam and peat, and 
flower between April and July. The 
same may be said of the genera 

AOTUS, DiLLWYXIAjGOMPHOLOEIUM. 



From three to 

Shrubby Helichrj^sum. {Helichrys^fm 
frutic'ans.) Flowers in January and 
August, in common loam. Cuttings. 

Cinerous Helichrj'sum. {Helichrysum 
iephrodes,) Flowers in January and 
August, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Broad-leaved Daviesia. {Daviesia lati- 
folia.) Flowers in -May and August, 
in sand, loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Furze-leaved Daviesia. ( Daviesia 
uliciyia.) Flowers in April and Au- 
giist, in sand, loam, and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Winged Daviesia. {Daviesia alata.) 

Flowers in May and August, in sand, 

loam, and peat. Cuttings. 
Various-leaved Podolobium. {Podo- 

lohimn heterophyllum.) Flowers in 

April and July, in sand and peat. 

Cuttings. 

•Climbing Podolobium. {Podolobium 
scandens.) Prowers in April and 
June, in sand and peat. Cuttings. 

:Sword Bossiaea. {Bossicea ensata.) 
Flowers in May and June, in sand, 
loam, and peat.' Cuttings. 

Sound -leaved Bossiaea. {Bossicea 



six feet high. 

rotundifolia.) Flowers in May and 
June, in sand, loam, and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Heart-leaved Oxylobium. {Oxylobium 
cordifolium.) Flowers in April and 
September, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Ai'borescent Oxylobium. {Oxylobium 
arhorescens.) 'Flowers in April and 
July, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Genista-like Cyclopia. {Cyclopia ge- 
nistoides.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Broad-leaved Cyclopia. {Cyclopia lati- 
folia.) Flowei*s in July and August, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Box-leaved Bossiaea. {Bossi-cea buxi- 
folia.) Flowers in ^lay and June, 
'in sand, loam, and peat! Cuttings. 

Leafy Bossiaea. {Bossicea foliosa.) 
Flowers in May and July, in sand, 
loam, and peat.' 

Small-leaved Bossiaea. {Bossicea mi- 
crophylla.) Flowers in May and 
August, in sand, loam, and peat. 
Cuttings. 



88 



PLANTS REQUIRING 



PURPLE. 

From one to three feet high. 



Heatli-leaved Blaeria. {Blceria eri- 
coides.) Flowers in Au^-nst and Oc- 
tober, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Mossy Blaeria. ( Blceria muscosa. ) 
Flowers in January and August, in 
loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Pui-ple - flowered Blaeria. ( Blceria 
purpurea.) Flowers in May and 
June, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Capitate Diosma. {Diosma capitata.) 
Flowers in May and June, in peat 
and loam. Cuttings. 

Pinnated -leaved Boronia. (Boronia 
pinnata.) Flowers in FebiTiary and 
March, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Oxalis-leaved Loddigesia. {Loddigcsia 
oxalidifolia,) Flowers in May and 



From three to 

Purpurescent Epacris* (Epacris pur- 
pur escens.) Flowers in January and 
March, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Close-headed Helichrysum. ( Heli- 
chrysum congestum.) Flowers in 
May and June, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Pretty Agathosma. {Agathosma pifl- 
chella.) Flowers in February and 
September, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Long-leaved Hovea. (Hovea longi- 
folia.) Flowers in June and Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Rosemary - leaved Hovea. ( Hovea 
rosmarinifolia. ) Flowers in ^larch 
and July, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 



September, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Sesamum-like Aphelexis. {Aphelexis 
sesamoides.) Flowers in April and 
June, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Fascicled Aphelexis. (Aphelexis fascr- 
culata.) Flowers in ]\larch and Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Obtuse - leaved Agathosma. ( A^g€i- 
thosma ohtusa.) Flowers in April 
and January, in peat and loam. 
Cuttings. 

Hairy Agathosma. {Agathosma hirta.) 

Flowers in April and Januarj^, in 

peat and loam. Cuttings. 
Short-leaved Agathosma.' (Agathosma 

hrevifoUa.) Flowers in April and 

June, in loam and peat. Cuttings. 



six feet high. 

Linear-leaved Hovea. {Hovea linearis. ) 
Flowers in ]March and July, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. 

Purple Hovea. {Hovea purpurea.) 
Flowers in March and July, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. 

Wool-bearing Hovea. {Hovea lanigera.) 
Flowers in oNIarch and July, in sandy- 
peat. Cuttings. 

Willow - leaved Crowea. ( Crowea 
saligna.) Flowers in July and De- 
cember, in sand, loam, and peat. 
Cuttings. 

Broad-leaved Crowea. {Crowea lati- 
folia.) Flowers in July, in sand, 
loam, and peat» Cuttings. 



PINK OR ROSE. 



From one to three feet high. 



Jointed Blaeria. {Blceria articulata.) 

Flowers in May and June, in sandy 

peat. Cuttings. 
Sprengelia-like Andersonia. {Ander- 

sonia sprengelioides.) Flowers in 

March and July, in sandy peat. 

Cuttings. 

Five-petaled Lysinema, {Lysinema 
pentapetalum.) Flowers in Feb- 
niary and March, in loam and peat. 
Cuttings. 

Hairy-flowered Lysinema. {Lysinema 
lasiatithum.) Flowers in February 
and May, in loam and peat. Cut- 
tings, 



Heath-like Helichrysum. {Helichry- 
sum ericoides.) Flowers in March 
and August, in common loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Humble Aphelexis. {Aphelexis hu- 
milis.) Flowers in May and June, 
in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

One-flowered Adenandra. {Adenandra 
unijiora.) Flowers in April and July, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Showy Adenandra. {Adenaiidra spe- 
ciosa.) Flowers in April and July^ 
in peai and loam. Cuttings. 



THE treat:*iext of heaths. 



89 



Margined Adenandra. {Adenandra j cupyessina.) Flowers in June and 

marginata.) Flowers in ]Marcli and | July, in peat and loam. Cuttin2:s. 

July, in peat and loam. Cutting:s. ! Box-leaved Eriostemon. (Erios-temo/i 

Cypress - leaved Diosma. {Diosma \ biLiifoUus.) Flowers in May, in peat 

> and loam. Cuttings. 



From tliree to 

Neat Epacris. (Ejm.ois jjuIcJiella.) \ 
Flowers in April and June, in sandy j 
peat. Cutting's. 

Three-flowered 'St\T)lielia. {Sfyplielia 
triflora.) Flowers in May and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Broad-leaved Sfs-plielia. {Sfi/p/ielia 
latifolia.) Flowers in May and July, 
in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Cuiied Helichrysum. {Helichrysum 



ix feet Mgh. 

crlsjmm.) Flowers in Januaiy and 
August, in common loam. Cuttings. 

Fragrant Adenandra. ( Adencmdra 
fragrans.) Flowers in May and 
July, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Saw-leaved Baryosma. Baryosma sei'- 
ratifoUa.) Flowers in March and 
Januaiy, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 



SCARLET. 



From one to tJiree feet Mgh. 



Trailing Astroloma. {Astroloma M- 
mifusum.) Flowers in May and 
October, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Blunt-leaved Oxylobium. {Oxylobium 
ohtusifolium.) 



Henclimann's Chorizema. {Cliorizema 
HencJunanmi.) Flowers in April and 
June, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 



From three to dx feet high. 



SliO'wx- Corraea. {Corrcea speciosa.) 

Flowers in April and June, in sandy 

peat. Cuttings. 
Pretty CoiT«a. {Corrcea pulcheUa.) 



Flowers in April and July, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. 
Serulated Boronla. {Boronia serulata.) 
Flowers in June and July, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. 



ORANGE. 



From one to three feet Mgh. 



Retuse-leaved Oxylobium. {Oxylohium 
retusum,) Flowers in April and INIay, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Pulteney's Oxylobium. {OxyJohium 
Pultencea.) Flowers in Marcb, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings. 

M^Ttle-leaved Eutoxia. Eutoxia myr- 
lifoUa.) Rowers in August, in sand, 
loam, and peat. Cuttings. 



Flax-leaved Bossiaea. (Bossitea lino- 
phyUa.) Flowers in June and Sep- 
tember, in sand, loam, and peat. 
Cuttings. 

Ovate-leaved Flat Pea. (Platylobium 
ovatum.) Flowers in January and 
September, in sand, loam, and' peat. 
Seeds. 



From three 

Beautiful Flat Pea. ( Platylobium 
formosum.) Flowers in January and 
August, in sandy peat. Seeds.* 

Smali-flowered Flat Pea. {Platylobium 
parviflorum.) Flowers in May and 



*/.r feet Mgh. 

September, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Globe-flowered Liparia. ( Liparia 
sphcerica.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 



90 



THE HEATHERY. 



CRIMSON. 

From one to three feet high. 

Bloody Gnaphalium. i GnaphaUurn sanguineum.) Hoovers in May and July, ia 
common loam. Seeds. 

From three to six feet high. 



Impressed Epacris. (Epacris im- 
pressa.) Flowers in April and July, 
in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Proliferous Phcenocoma.^ (Pho??wcoma 
proVifcra.) Rowers in August and 
November, in sandy peat. Cut- 



Tube-flowered St>-phelia. (Styphelia 
tuhiilora. ) Flowers in May and 
Ausrust. in sandy peat. Seeds. 

Epacris-Iike St>-phelia. ( Styphelia 
^epacroides.) Flowers in Jiily and 
August, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 



91 



THE geraniu:j house. 

The late Mr. Colvelle was amongst the lii'st wlio saw the propriety 
and adopted the practice of gi'owing the Geraniacece in a house by them- 
selves. Since that time many have followed the example, and. judging 
from the fine specimens brought to the pubhc plant exhibitions within 
these last three yeai's. we are led to think that in no depaitment of plant 
culture has such a rapid improvement been made as in that of Pelargo- 
niums. To grow these niunerous and splendid plants to perfection, 
requires a separate house for themselves, and whoever has seen those of 
Hill, at Hammersmith, Cox, of Chiswick, and Gaines, of Battersea. as 
public cultivators, and those of Su' John Broughton. or E. Jenkinson, 
Esq., will admit, we tliink, that they richly deserve a house for them- 
selves. The Geraniacece have the following atti'acrions, namely, they are 
easily kept, propagated, and flowered ; they conrinue nearly the whole 
season in bloom ; present almost infinite variety of coloiu: and form, 
and are much better adapted for standing in rooms uninjm'ed than most 
other plants. New varieties ai"e reachly originated by cross impregnarion, 
and these are reachly increased by cuttings, the simplest of all modes of 
re-production. If the majority- of Pelai'goiiiums are deficient in fragi'ance, 
nature has made up for that apparent deficiency, by the splendour of the 
blossoms ; and, as it were, to equahse her gifts, certain kinds whose flowers 
are less showy, nay, even of a dingy hue, have a dehghtful perfume ; some 
during the evening and night, and others when rubbed against, or when 
the wind lashes the leaves and branches against each other. 

Few genera of plants exhibit more fully the industiy of the culrivator, 
or demonsti'ate more clearly the conti'ol he exercises in producing 
varieties, than in the case of the Geranium or Pelargonium. Hundreds 
of varieries, which are to be met with in the cohecrions of florists, are 
the fruits of his ingenuity : for, however strange it may appear, it is 
a positive fact that not above a dozen true species are to be recog- 
nised amongst them. It is, therefore, now only in the strictly botanical 
collections that true species ai*e to be seen, they having given place to 
sub-species originated by hybridizing. AVitli the exception of three or 
four species, the whole of this splendid tribe, amounting to nearly three 
himdred recorded species, and above five hundi'ed sub-varieties, have been 



92 



THE GERAXIUM HOUSE. 



either introduced or originated in this country- within the last fifty or sixty 
years. 

The teiTQ Pelargonium is derived from the Greek name for a stork's bill, 
in allusion to the seed vessel, which resembles the beak of that bird : it was 
separated from the Geranium by the late learned ^lonsieur I'Heritier, as 
was the Erodium, which was formerly included under the general name of 
Geranium also ; for although we are in the very general habit of using the 
term geranium, geranium house, &c., when alluding to Pelargoniums, we 
must admit that this is an inaccuracy of expression which has nothing but 
habit to sanction it. 

The late excellent and learned Sir James Edward Smith appears to 
have entertained no very high opinion of hybrid varieties of this family. 
''This vast and favomite genus," says he, "for which we are almost 
entirely indebted to the Cape^of Good Hope, consists of a number of well- 
marked species. But that number is greatly augmented in almost ever}' 
book, by the admission of spiuious hybrid species or varieties, which con- 
tinually start up from seed, wherever many of the primary' ones are culti- 
vated, and are for a wliile propagated by cuttings and even by seed ; 
sooner or later however, they, for the most part, vanish before the eyes 
of those who witnessed their origin." Great confusion has arisen in 
botanical works, for which the authors are much to blame, in consequence 
of admitting sub-varieties of knoTNTi hybrid production, and also by regis- 
tering many very doubtful ones in theii' works as species, for it must be 
allowed, that admitting them into works of science is replete with the 
greatest inconvenience. 



STRUCTURES CALCULATED FOR THE GROWTH OF GERANIACEiE. 

Any ordinary greenhouse, not too lofty, and capable of being com- 
pletely ventilated, and situated in full exposure to the meridian sun, ^vill 
answer very well for the cultm-e of this tribe. But if a house were to be 
erected on pm-pose, one or other of the annexed figm-es, we should say, 
would be a perfect model. As the plants of this family require all the 
light, air, and sun, that our climate affords, it is necessary that the 
Geranium house should front the south, and be perfectly free from the 
shade of trees or buildings. 

A very complete Geranium house may be upon the same scale of size, 
and constructed as that recommended for a Heathery, and may be attached 



MOST APPROPRIATE HOUSES. 



93 



to it, thus forming a pretty range, which, in consequence of tlie plants 
being for the most part natives of the same country, will associate well 
together ; or the Geranium house may be erected against the CameUia 
house, providing that the latter be detached from the dwelhng house, and 




occupying the north aspect of a separate wall. One remark we shall here 
make respecting the erection of plant houses in which small plants are 
to be cultivated. 




Heaths, Geraniums, and most fine flowering greenhouse plants, should 
never be allowed to become old or large, as such plants, for the most part, 
do not flower so fine nor look so well, as young plants do. Houses of 
this description should be rather long and naiTOw, because in that 
case the plants are more within reach, and are much better seen than 



94 



THE GERANIUM HOUSE. 



when tliey are placed too far from the eye, wliicli tliey often are when the 
house is either too lofty or too wide. 

In our estimation the last figure would be a very complete Geranium 
house, and would be an object both hght and elegant in the flower garden 
if placed detached from other buildings, or it would be equally well placed, 
if more desirable, when attached to the dwelling by one of its ends. The 
height of such a house should not exceed seven feet over the foot paths, 
which will be sufficient to admit of a free passage ; for the lower such 
houses are, the better, so that there be plenty of head room. The length 
of all plant houses must be determined by local circumstances ; but so far 
as heating is concerned, and we tliink it proper to mention that here, one 
fire, whether employed to heat a boiler of water or warm the smoke flues, (a) 
will heat a house of .this width and height, above one hundred feet in 
length. A span-roofed house we prefer for geraniums, as the plants enjoy 
plenty of air, light, and solai* influence, and are seen to great advantage. 
A span-roofed house, similar to that represented by the above section, if 
fifty feet in length, will contain nearly as many plants as one in the lean-to 
fashion of one hundi'ed feet in length ; and in regard to expense of erec- 
tion will be much less. 

In speaking of shading the most dehcate heaths during the heat of 
summer, we would also recommend the same provision to be used for the 
geranium house, while the plants are in bloom. This expense will be 
amply remunerated by the greater length of time the plants tnIII remain 
in bloom, and the richness of the colom's of the flowers, which, if exposed 
to the full solar influence, would be ver}' much injured. The uprigiit 
lights over the parapet walls should be made to take out, as dming a great 
part of the season they will be better removed, in order that a free circu- 
lation of ah' be permitted to pass through the house ; but they should be 
replaced in stormy, windy weather. This mode of ventilation wiU render 
the opening the roof seldom necessary, guarding also against sudden 
showers of rain, which would be veiy injmious to the finest flowers. 



PR0PAGA.TI0N AND TREATMEXT WHILE YOUN'G. 

Geraniums or, more properly. Pelargoniums, are very readily propagated 
by cuttings and seeds, and the tuberous-rooted sorts by cuttings or pieces 
of the roots. To have a succession of flowering plants all the year, some 
attention should be paid to the period of flowering of diiierent sorts, which 



PROPAGATION AND TREATMENT. 



95 



a reference to Loudon's Hortus Britannicns, and also the period at 
which the cuttings are planted, will sufficiently indicate. The following 
routine we have been satisfied with following, ^iz., in August, at which 
period the earlier flowering kinds will have done flowering, the plants are 
cut down to within one or two eyes, if we may so speak ; but which will 
be more intelligible if we say to within from an inch to half an inch of 
where the shoot spmng from. The shoots so taken ofl*, a,re made into 
cuttings about six inches long, and cut close off below a joint, but the 
leaves should be left on, and not reduced in size, as is too often done. 
Each cutting is then planted in a pot of the size called large thumbs, and 
which ai'e about two inches in diameter. They are then well watered, 
and plunged into a moderate hot-bed, kept close and well shaded, till 
they have begun to take root, when air is gradually admitted to them. 
The only care necessary dming this part of theii' culture is to pick off 
all decayed leaves, to prevent the cuttings fi'om rotting, to keep the tem- 
perature steady, but not too high, and above ail to keep them shaded. In 
foiu" or five weeks, cuttings so treated will requh'e to be shifted into larger 
pots of the size knovra as thiity-twos, after which the plants may be 
placed in a cool, airy pit, or frame, but kept close to the glass to prevent 
their being drawn up weak and tail ; or they may at once be aiTanged in 
the Geranium house. Plants so ti'eated will flower in March if they are 
removed to the Geranium house before the setting in of severe frost. 

In September, another set of cuttings shoidd be put in, of the sorts that 
go out of flower at that period ; these ^-ill flower in ^>Iay, and a thu'd set 
of cuttings should be put in, in Januaiy, which will flower from May to 
July ; and a fouith and last set in ^larch, which will produce plants that, 
if kept cool dming summer, and brought into the Geranium house in Sep- 
tember, will bloom dm'ing October, November, andpait of December. 

The tuberous-rooted sorts are much less generally cultivated now than 
formerly, their flowers bearing no comparison to those of the half-shrubby 
kinds. Such may, hovrever, be readily increased by planting pieces of 
the roots in small pots, in a shght heat ; leaving a small poition of the top 
of the root above ground. 

On tliis subject, the following rational remarks are from the pen of Mr. 
Appleby, in a communication in .the Horticidtiu'al Cabinet, Vol. V. p. 9. 

" Dming the grovring season, they require watering pretty freely ; but 
as soon as they have done flowering, and their leaves begin to tmn yellow, 
decrease the quantity of water gradually ; the best method to do this, wiU 
be to water once in three days, then once a week, then once a fortnight, 
and lastly, once a month : by which time they will be completely at rest. 



98 



THE GERANIUM HOUSE. 



when no water must be given them till they begin to grow again, which 
may be looked for about February and March. "When at rest, any situa- 
tion where they can be kept moderately dry and cool, will do for them : 
heat, hght, and moistm-e being unnecessary.'^ 

The best time to increase this section of Pelargoniums, is just before 
they begin to grow. Take off a small tuber or two, where they can be 
spared, from each plant, and put them into as small pots as they can be 
placed, just to cover them ; place them in gentle heat, giving but httle 
water till they begin to grow, when they may be removed amongst the 
estabHshed plants, and the ordinary culture given ; they may also be in- 
creased by seed, which, however, they do not produce so freely as the 
shrubby species." 

In regard to the species that have not been hybridized, of which P. 
bicolor, tricolor, ovatum, tetragonuin, elatum, pendulum, fulgiduniy elegans, 
&c., form a part, the above authority directs as follows : "As they are all 
shrubby species, they require watering all the year, though always care- 
fully, for if the soil gets soddened with water for any length of time, it is in 
general fatal to the plants. They also require greenhouse treatment during 
mnter and spring. In summer they should be placed out of doors in an 
open situation, screened from high winds, and set upon a bed of ashes so 
thick as to prevent worms fi'om getting into the pots : keep them clear of 
weeds, tied up neatly, and regularly watered during dry weather. Pot 
them into larger pots when they require it ; the best season for which 
operation is the month of April. 

" To propagate them, take 3'oungish cuttings off about the month of May ; 
fit some bell or small hand glasses to such a number of pots as may be 
requu'ed ; fill them half full with broken potsherds, rough bits of turf, or 
anything that v^dll permit the water to pass freely ofif ; put in upon them 
as much of the compost," [loam, peat earth, vegetable soil, and sand, in 
equal proportions, w^hich Mr. A. finds to be most proper for them,] *' as 
will fill the pots up to one inch of the rims, and fill up to the top with pm'e 
sand ; then give a gentle watering, and insert the cuttings, giving more 
water to settle the sand close and firm to them. When pretty dry, cover 
them with the glasses, and place them in a gentle heat ; pot them ofif when 
struck, and keep them close and warm till they have struck root again ; 
then give them the ordinary treatment, as to situation, air, watering, potting, 
and so forth." 

Propagation of the large or ordinary sorts of Pelargoniums by seeds is 
seldom practised, excepting with a view to obtain new varieties ; and it is 
almost vain to attempt this, unless attention has been paid to artificial im- 



TBEATMEXT IX THE HOUSE. 



97 



pregnation. Geranium seeds are best sown soon after they are ripe, pro- 
\-ided that does not happen after August, in which case it would be better 
to delay sowing till Febmary or March. ^\Tien the seeds are sown, they 
should be placed in a nuld hot-bed, and regularly shaded till they have ve- 
getated ; after which they should be accustomed to the sun and air to 
harden them prcTious to their being potted, which should be done when 
they are about an inch, or an inch and a half high ; their treatment after 
this differs not fi'om that of cuttings, only that they need not be topped 
with a view to form bushy plants, as it is not imtil they flower that 
their merits can be ascertained. Seedlings should however be stimu- 
lated, by being grown in very rich soil and occasionally watered with 
liquid manm-e. 



GENERAL TREATMENT WHEN IN THE HOUSE. 

By the latter end of September, the Geraniimis, if they have been 
placed out during the summer, should be arranged in their winter habi- 
tation, along with such as have been recently propagated from cuttings. V^'e 
would be understood here, however, as not advocating the practice of 
originating the whole collection of pelargoniums annually from cuttings, 
for we have found that most sorts flower well the second year, by follow- 
ing the simple routine of shaking the mould entirely away from such 
plants as have been cut down after flowering, re-potting them again in 
much smaller pots than those they flowered in, and placing them for a 
fortnight or three weeks in a close frame in which a sHght bottom heat 
is maintained, until they begin to make fresh roots and break into young 
branches. After this they should be placed in a sheltered situation until the 
end of September, when they are removed into the Geranium house. 
During winter they should be supphed with air and water, and kept slowly 
growing until February, when they should be sliifted into pots at least two 
sizes larger than those they have stood in during winter. , From tliis time 
until they begin to come into flower, their growth should be encouraged 
by allowing them plenty of room on the shelves or stages, supplying 
them with an abundance of air and water, and tui-ning them frequently 
round, so that all sides of the plants may enjoy an equal share of hght 
and sun. 

If kept too close, or too far from the glass, Geraniums are hableto grow 
up weak, and in that case seldom flower fine : they are also liable, in that 
case, to be attacked by the green-fly, which must be removed upon its first 

H 



98 



THE GERANIUM HOUSE. 



appearance by the application of tobacco smoke from the fumigating 
bellows. They are not subject to any other diseases. We are aware 
that this is not the practice followed by the most eminent growers 
of this splendid tribe, but we recommend it to such as, fi'om a variety of 
circumstances, have neither the convenience nor skill to bring on an annual 
supply. 

The plants originated from cuttings planted in August, and treated as 
directed above, may, when potted into thirty-two sized pots, be placed in the 
Geranium house, or if they be kept in a cool, air}- pit or frame, they need 
not be removed till the beginning of November : at all events, at whatever 
period they are brought in, it is essential that they be placed as near to 
the glass as possible, and abundantly supplied with air, and not set too 
closely together. All rambUng shoots, and such as appear to grow too fast, 
should be pinched off, for the future habit of the plant depends on its 
treatment at this period. ^lost young plants have a tendency to send 
up one leading shoot, which often attains a considerable height before 
sending out lateral branches. A plant allowed to run so, can never after- 
wards be brought into a handsome form, and if the formation of the plant 
be not set about when young, it cannot be done afterT\ ai'ds without sacri- 
ficing the flowers, wliich he in embryo in the points of the shoots that 
would in that case be cut off. One of the greatest faults in the ordinary 
mode of cultivating Geraniums is, allowing them to run up tall and naked 
at the bottom ; when such a course is followed, the plants will neither 
flower well nor look so handsome. 

The greenhouse kinds of Geraniaceae, though nearly all natives of the 
Cape of Good Hope, are much less hardy than the family of Erica from 
the same countiy ; this may be accounted for in various ways ; — soft- 
wooded or succulent plants are more hable to be injured by frost, than 
hard- wooded plants from the same latitudes, their exterior skin or outer 
bark being very thin, and then- juices extremely abundant. Again, most 
of the family Erica are indigenous to the mountains, while most of the 
Geraniums are inhabitants of the plains, thus proving that altitude is as 
much to be studied in calculating the comparative degree of hardiness in 
plants, as latitude. 

We know," says Mr. ]\I^Nab, from undoubted authority, that certain 
species of Cape Geraniacefe, and certain species of Erica, grow together in 
the same kind of soil and in the same situation, intermixed one vrith the 
other in theu' native country- ; but we know that in this country the 
same species of heaths will bear a degree of cold with impunity, which 



TREATMENT IN THE HOL'SE. 



99 



will materially injure, and in many cases kill the Pelargoniums growing 
beside them. 

" To grow Cape Ericeae and Geraniaceae well together, would require far 
nicer management than I profess to be acquainted mth. I know, how- 
ever, that heaths will bear a degree of cold in the greenhouse in winter, 
(which, I am persuaded, is beneficial to their health), that will materially 
injure Cape Geraniaceae. If therefore a particular point is to be found, 
to which the thermometer may be allowed to sink in the inside of a 
greenhouse during a severe frost, which will preserv e the Geraniaceae fi'om 
injmy, and not produce too much heat for the safety of the heath, it is 
one which I have never been able to ascertain. 

I am speaking however of these two famihes so as to have them in 
a high state of perfection. They may be both kept in the same house so 
as to make a tolerable appearance ; but, I beheve not in such a state of 
perfection as if they were in separate houses ; for the fire heat which is 
absolutely necessary during severe frost for the one, is, as far as my obser- 
vation goes, sure to be in some degree injm-ious to the other." 

Most of the true Cape species are much hardier than the English 
hybrids, for many of the former, particularly the tuberous-rooted kinds, 
stand in the open borders of this country diuing winter, while none of 
the latter, so far as we know, have ever been found to do so. The same 
degree of cold that would not injure the most tender Erica, would be fatal 
to the whole tribe of hybrid Geraniums. 

During winter, frost must be excluded by covering the Geranium house 
with canvass, or by the apphcation of artificial heat from the fire, either 
through smoke flues or hot water pipes, so as to keep the temperature 
from falling below thirty two degrees, but it should by no means be 
allowed to rise by the same means to forty degrees ; a higher temperature 
during the day and by sun heat is quite a different thing. 

On the general treatment of Pelargoniums, we find the following com- 
munication of Mr. Appleby, in Vol. V., p. 55 of Horticultm-al Cabinet, 
so replete with good sense and practical skill, that we cannot do better 
than give the quotation almost at length. 

" The season to take Geraniums into the greenhouse depends upon the 
weather ; and as all Cape plants are much healtliier, and flower more freely 
the more they are exposed to the full ah, so long as frosts keep oft', I delay 
the taking them in : in fact, tliis last season, I did not house them generally 
until the middle of October. Choice kinds I have covered up with mats 
or large sheets of canvass, elevated on stakes, on such nights as are likely 
to be frosty. 

H 2 



100 



THE GERANIUM HOUSE. 



Perhaps no months in the whole year are so unhealthy for Geraniums 
as November and December, for the weather generally is dark, damp, 
and rainy, and the plants being full of sappy green leaves, and having 
received a check from new potting, are often shedding leaves, which I con- 
stantly remove, or they would become mouldy and give out a bad smell, 
offensive both to the owners and to the plants themselves.' At all 
times during the day I give as much air as possible, by opening the doors, 
windows, ventilators, &c. In the mornings I have a fire made to dry up 
damp, but allow it to go out before the house is shut up, for the remedy 
would be worse than the disease : close heat at this season being most 
injurious. 

" During the severity of winter, fire is necessary to keep out the frost, 
(when very severe both day and night), but I am careful not to create 
damp by watering more than is absolutely necessary. It often happens 
on frosty days, that the sun sliines clear and bright, and though the atmo- 
sphere is frosty, I always give air to lower the temperature of the house, to 
admit fresh, and to dry up damps. 

In January I scrape off the top soil of the pots, and have such as are 
green with moss well washed, picking all decayed leaves, trimming off any 
awkward branches on large plants, and tying up aU that require it, and 
then having at hand some hght rich soil, I fiU up the pots, and finally give 
a good watering. 

" As the season advances they will generally begin to show flower buds, 
and as soon as I observe this, I consider they require potting, especially 
those in the small pots struck in July ; this 'wiU generally happen about 
the middle or end of March ; but such as do not show flower, I do not 
re-pot, as that would encourage grovrth rather than flowering. 

In the spring months too much au' cannot be given, and in con- 
sequence more water is required, which I bestow very hberally : frequently 
syringing over the whole plants, which refreshes them and prevents in- 
sects injuring them, though no kind of insects particularly affects the 
Geranium, if I except the green-fly, which is easily destroyed by tobacco 
smoke. When the flowering season is over, and I do not want the plants 
for the flower garden, I cut them down, and as the sap will flow out 
of the wounds, no water is given until the bleeding stops. If they are 
in too large pots, I shake them out, cut off part of the roots, and put 
them into less pots, which is a sort of renewal of the plants. I take 
them out of doors as soon as I think the frosts are over, to some place 
sheltered from the sun and west winds, setting them thinly upon a bed of 
coarse coal ashes two or tliree inches thick. During summer, I give water 



TREATMENT OUT OF DOORS. 



101 



when it is required, and keep them clear of weeds, and when I observe 
that they make roots through the holes at the bottom of the pots, I shift 
them into a fresh place, which is all the care they require until the 
autumn arrives, when they are sheltered from the frost in the green- 
house or in pits.^^ 

GENERAL TREATMENT WHEN OUT OF DOORS. 

Geraniums should only be placed in the open air after they have done 
flowering. The situation most proper for them, is a dry, any, exposed 
place ; where they may enjoy the full influence of the sun. During the 
period of their remaining in this situation, they should be regularly sup- 
phed with water, and precaution taken to prevent worms from entering 
into the pots. The best preventive for this, is to water the ground 
between the pots now and then with lime water, or any water in which 
alkali has been dissolved. 

The more common varieties, or such as there may be dupHcates of, 
when done flowering'"^ in the Geranium house, will, if tiu'ned out of the 
pots and planted in the borders of the flower garden, flower again 
through the autumnal months, and may afterwards be either taken up, 
their branches cut down to within about an inch of the point they 
issued from, potted, and kept in a cold pit for next summer flowering. 
If not wanted for this purpose they may be thrown away. 



SOIL. 

The Geraniaceae require a light rich soil to grow them to perfection ; 
that composed of one half very rotten dung and rich hght loam, will be 
found to answer every pm*pose. Young plants will grow rapidly in 
decayed leaves having a little sand mixed with them ; but to bring plants 
to that perfection that vrill enable them to expand flowers of their full 
size, a Uttle stronger soil is required. Some of the London nurserymen 
have grown excellent geraniums in a compost of night soil, street 
sweepings, &c., which has been sweetened, as it is termed, by being ex- 
posed to the weather for a year or two, and frequently turned over. 
To enrich any otherwise good Ught loam, bone dust, malt dust, yeast, 
or any similar stimulant may be used. Geraniums have been grown 
tolerably well, planted in moss, various species of hypnum^ &c., but in 



102 



THE GERANIUM HOUSE. 



such a medium tliey require abundance of water. Tliis latter method 
may be all well enough for plants intended to be brought into the drawing 
room to flower ; but for the production of the best class of flowers a rich 
light loamy soil is required. 



WATER. 

During winter Geraniums must not be over-watered, as that would 
have a tendency to create damp, which would be extremely injurious to 
them, and should be guarded against by all possible means, such as free 
ventilation, occasional heat being thrown into the flues during the day, 
so that the superfluous moisture or damp may be allowed to pass off in the 
shape of steam, and above all, taking care not to spill water unnecessarily 
while applying it to tlie plants. Dui'ing spring, while they are growing, 
and during the period of flowering, they can hardly have too much water, 
so tliat the pots are drained in a proper manner to allow of its passing 
through. It is not well, however, to place the pots in pans of water at 
any time, neither is it necessary to apply water over their tops with the 
engine at any period, particularly during winter. 



SHIFTING OR POTTING. 

The season for potting Geraniums depends upon circumstances. Those 
that are propagated annually from cuttings, and intended to flower the 
same season, can have no stated period of shifting, as that entirely depends 
on the progress they make in rooting. For, to grow them in the first 
degree of excellence, they must be shifted into larger pots as soon as 
their roots have fully extended to the outside of the ball, and this process 
must be followed up till they have been placed in the pots in which they 
are to flower. At each removal they must be carefully taken from one 
pot to the other ; the ball left unbroken, and the roots undistm'bed, else 
the plants would sustain a considerable check. 

Geraniums grown in the more ordinary manner are shifted, as has been 
already observed, soon after they are cut down after flowering, and placed 
in smaller pots in which they are to stand during the winter : again, in 
February or ^larch they are to be re-potted into the sized pots in which 
they are to produce their flowers. 

Draining and the routine of potting has already been sufficiently 



TREATMENT OUT OF DOORS. 



103 



noticed under the article Erica, and requires no separate remark here 
farther than to ohserre, that as Geraniums are, during their growing 
season, to be supplied with abundance of water, it is necessary that 
great precaution be taken in draining the pots well. 

The following engraving represents the kind of cutting best adapted for 
forming a vigorous and handsome plant. It is taken off by passing the 
knife right through a joint, where the root fibres are always found: the 
cutting itself should contain five or six joints. 




104 



^ SELECT LIST OF PELARGONIUMS. 



WHITE, 

With red or purple lines or spots. 





s. 


d. 


s. 


d. 


Ada . 


10 


0to20 





Alba miiltiflora 


5 


0—10 





Albion (L) 


7 


6- 


-15 





Bella Donna (R) 


3 


6- 


-10 





Bellissima (R) 


10 


0—20 





Brig-htoniensis 






1 


6 


Brig-htianum . 






1 





Cecilia 


5 


0—10 





Charles X. 






1 


6 


Countess of Plymouth (D) 






2 


6 


Cupid 


5 


0—10 





Duchess of Clarence, new 






2 


6 


Duchess of Gloucester . 






1 


6 


Fosterianum . 






2 


6 


Hill's Champion 






2 


6 


Imogene (P) . 






3 


6 


King- of Whites 


3 


6- 


- 7 





Lucidum 


1 


6- 


- 2 


6 


Marg-aretta 


2 


6- 


- 3 


6 


Martineau (Miss) 


5 


0—10 





Mattocksianum 






2 


6 


Modestum 


5 


0—10 





Monsonia 


5 


0- 


-10 





Mont Blanc 


3 


6— 7 





Oxoniensis 






2 


6 


Hctum 


10 


0- 


-20 





Piincianum 


1 


6- 


- 2 


6 


Queen of Whites 


2 


6- 


- 5 





Queen Bess 


7 


0—10 





Sylvia 


7 


0—10 






BLUSH, 



Albidum (D) . 
Anna Maria (D) 
Amelia (D) 
Betsy (D) 
Captain Cook 
Diversum 
Habranthum 
Lady Anne Bingham (D) 
Maid of Athens (F) 



LILAC. 

Different shades. 





s. 


d. 




d. 


Amesbury (R) . 


1 


6— 


3 


6 


Don Quixote (D) 


3 


6—10 





Inscriptum grandiflorum 


2 


6- 


5 





Lauretta (D) . 


3 


&- 


7 





Obovatum (D) . 


1 


0— 


2 






PINK, 

With red or purple lines or spots. 



Adansoni (D) . 


2 


6— 5 





Ann of Cleves . 


2 


6— 3 


6 


Britannia (S) . 


2 


6— 3 


6 


Diadimatum . 




1 


6 


Helen Mar 




2 




Incarnation superb. 








beautiful 




40 





Lavinia 




2 


6 


Lovely Anne . 


10 


0—20 





Maid of Athens 


2 


6— 3 


6 


Miss Annesley 


5 


0—10 





Optimus 


5 


0—10 





Sweetianum Germanicum 


5 


0—10 






ROSE. 

Darh purple lines or spots. 









Abietinum 


2 


6— 5 











Adelinae 


5 


O-IO 











Amabile superb 


2 


6— 5 





m 


d spots. 




Ang-elina 


2 


6— 5 











Diomede (H) . 


3 


6—10 





1 


6— 2 


6 


Don Juan 


5 


0—10 







1 


6 


Don Roderick . 




20 





3 


6— 5 





Dulcinea, new (D) 


5 


0—10 





1 


6— 2 


6 


Duchess of Sutherland . 




3 


6 




2 


6 


Emily 




2 


6 


3 


6— 7 





Flora McDonald (C) 




1 


6 


2 


6—10 





Flower BaU.(I>) 


2 


6— 5 







1 


6 


Francesca 


10 


0—20 







15 





Gazelle 


3 


6—10 






SELECT LIST. 



105 



Gem . 

Imperatum maximum 
Insuperabile . 
Incamatns (G) 
Jack of Newbrny (S) 
Julius Ceesar . ' 
IVIagnifloram (S) 
Meg-alantlium . 
Midas 

Norbiton Hero 
Paniculatum (D) 
Peelii 

Phoenix (R) 
Pixcy Queen . 
Pulcberrimum (G) 
Queen of Roses (D) 
Robin Hood . 
Regium novum 
Rembrandt 
Rosinante 
Rosette 

Rhododendron, flowered 
Rousianum 
Rosomond 
Rosalie 
Rosa (H) 
Rosa Mundi (D) 
Sancho Panza . 
Sir John Broughton (G) 
Sophia 
Sphinx 
Statii'E 

Tam O'Shanter, fine eyi 

Timandra 

Thumbergianum 

Virginius (C) . 

Vulneratum 

Wheel erii 



VERY BRIGHT ORANGE. 

Large Hack or velvety spot, 

Aladdin . .5 0—10 

Astartae . . 20 

Dennis' Queen Adelaide 2 6—36 

Prince of Orange . 3 6—10 

Queen of Sheba . 2 6—50 



RED OR SCARLET. 

Shaded tcith hriglit orange) dark 
purple lines or spots. 



s. 


d. s. 


d. 


7 


6—15 





2 


6— 5 





10 


0—20 







2 


6 


1 


6— 2 


6 


2 


6— 5 
2 



6 




1 





3 


6— 5 





3 


6— 5 





2 


6- 5 





1 


6— 2 


6 


1 


6— 2 


6 


10 


0—20 





2 


6— 5 







1 


6 


5 


0—10 
2 



6 


10 


0—20 





3 


6—10 





5 


0—10 





2 


6— 5 





5 


0—10 





2 


6— 5 





2 


6— 5 





2 


6— 5 





3 


6—10 





3 


6—10 





5 


0—10 





2 


6— 5 





3 


6— 5 





2 


6— 5 





10 


0—20 







2 


6 


3 


6- 7 





1 


6— 2 


6 


2 


6— 5 





5 


0—10 






FiUgi-ee 

Gainsianum (G) 
Lord Brougham 
Linea 

Ne Plus Ultra (D) 
Perfectum (R) . 



5 0-10 
10—36 

1 6 
3 6—50 
16—36 

2 6 



Quadriflorum . 
Red Rover 
Willmoreanum 



s. d. s. d. 

2 6 

1 6 

2 6 



OAK LEAVED, RED OR SCARLET. 
Dark lines or spots. 



Nutans 

Quercifolium superbum 

Othello 

Eminent 

Fu'e King 



6—3 
6— 2 
2 



6 
6 
1 6 
1 6 



BRIGHT SCARLET. 

Shaded with light or dark crimson; 
very dark or black spots or lines. 



Adonis 

Bellianum, or Mackie^s 

Seedling 
Brilliant 
Chassffi 
Flexuosum 
Isedorianum 
King of Scarlets 
Lucifer 
]\Iemnon 
Meteor (R) 
Nimrod (R) 
Perdita 
Phoebus 
Rou^e et Noir 
Wellington 



VERY FINE LARGE RED, 
With black lines or spots. 





2 


6 


2 


6— 5 







1 


6 


3 


6— 7 







2 


6 


7 


0—10 





5 


0—10 





3 


6— 7 





5 


O-IO 





2 


6— 5 





2 


6— 5 





7 


6—15 





3 


&- 7 





10 


0—20 





JO 


0—20 






Admiral Nelson (S) 
Admiral Napier (C) 
Amandum 
Atalanta 
Bancbo . .3 

Banksiannm grandiflorum 5 
Brassicoides . . 5 

Bonaparte . . 5 

Clarissianum (D) 
Concessum . . 3 

Dictator . . 10 

Elegans (F) . .2 
Emperor of the West . 20 
Flagrans (D) . 
General ]\Ioore . 2 

Hector . . 3 

HeniT VIII. (D) . 3 

Hercules superb 



10 O— 20 



6— 7 
0—10 

0— 10 

0—10 

1 6 

6—5 

0—20 

6—5 

0-^0 



1 

6—5 

6—10 

6—7 

•iO 



106 



THE GERANIUM HOUSE. 





5. 


d. s. 


d. 


Honorabile 


2 


6— 5 





Imperatum perfectum 


2 


6— 5 





Man of Ross . 




1 


6 


Mary Stuart . 


1 


6— 2 


6 


Mirabile major 


2 


6— 5 





Miller's Victory 




1 


6 


Oscar 


15 


0—20 





Paragon, Beautiful 


40 


0—60 





Parker's Triumph 


10 


0—20 





PERFECTION (D) 


5 


0—20 





Queen of Scots (M) 




1 


6 


Rubra compacta 


3 


6— 7 





Sesostris (P) . 


2 


6— 5 





Zohrab 


2 


0— 3 


6 



PURPLE. 

Dark lines or spots. 



Albion (C) 




2 


6 


Capitatum superb 




20 





CoUeyanum 




1 


6 


Fusco' superb . 




1 


6 


Lydia 


.* 10 


0—20 





Veitcliianum . 




1 


6 


LARGE CRIMSON. 






Very dark shades. 






Belvidere (J) , 


. 2 


6— 5 





Black Rover . 




20 





Cicero 


! 5 


0—10 





Elvira (H) 


. 3 


6— 7 





LordDenman . 


2 


6— 5 





Maria Louisa . 


. 1 


6— 2 


6 


Superbissimum 




1 


6 


Succulentum . 




1 


6 


CRI]\ISON PURPLE 


> 




With white^ scarlet, or 


black marks 


or 


lines. 








Black Prince (G) 




1 


6 


Catesbianum 


! 3 


6—10 





Caecium 


. 5 


0—10 





Calamistratum (D) 




1 





Conspicuum (D) 




2 


6 


Descendens 




3 


6 


Don Juan (J) . 


*. 10 


0—20 





Euterpe 


. 10 


0—20 





General Washington 


. 5 


0—10 





Humei grandiflora (D) 


. 3 


6— 5 





Hericartianum 


. 3 


6- 7 






La Blache 
Miranda 

Purpurea coerulea 
Smith's Queen xVdelaide 
Weltjianum (W) 



s. d. s. d. 
20 0—40 
5 0—10 
3 6—70 
2 



CLOUDED OR OBSCURED, 

With dark jmrple or black. 



African 
Brunette 

Champion of Devon 

Curate 

Eldoniae 

Exquisite (K) . 

Heroine 

Jenkinsonii superb (D) 
Lord Ebring-ton (D) 
Obscurum grandillorum 
Pullum 
Yeatmanianum grandi 
florum (D) . 



3 



Bright rose red. 



Glaucopis 
Ladv Denbigh 
Lord Munster (R) 
Poiteanum 
Roselaide 



Dark rose red. 



Hero (R) 
Kermesinum . 
Lord HiU (fine) 
Media 

Penneyanum . 
Van Huysen (A) 



1 6 



6— 5 

1 6— 2 

2 6—5 

3 
2 
3 



2 

6—10 



2 6—3 



Upper petals nearly approaching to 
black, ivith paler lower petals. 



King's Psyche 
Marginatum . 
Olympicum 
Pullaceum 
Smut . 



3 


6- 7 


6 


1 


6— 2 





2 


6— 5 





5 


0—10 







2 


6 



2 


6 


0—15 





2 


6 


2 


6 


2 








2 


6 




2 


6 


5 


0—15 





2 


6— 5 







2 


6 


2 


6— 3 


6 



SELECT LIST. 



107 



DarJt and purple, shaded red. 

s. d. s. d. 

Augustissimum superbum 3 6— 7 
Fulminans . . 16 

Grandissima . . 16 

Pavoniuum maximum . 3 6 — 7 
Proteanum . .2 — 5 

Serviciae . . 2 6— 3 



VARIOUS. 

s. d. s. d. 



Bipinnatifidum . 3 6 — 5 

Ecliinatum . . 2 6 

IMaculatum sanguineum 5 

Quinquevulnermn . 2 6 

SangTiineum . . 2 6 

Schizopetalum . 5 

Speculum Muudi . 5 0—10 

Veenulum sangiiineum . 2 6 — 5 

Vespertinum . . 2 6 



To these may he added the following^ varying in price from \s. to 
\s, 6d. They generally continue in flower from April to September , and 
vary in height from one to five feet. 



Affine, orang-e rose 
Albiflora, white 

Albinotatum or Favourite Puiple, 
purple 

Angelina, white and dark spots 
Ardens ma.jor, deep scarlet 
Asc^Tum, light rose 
Atrorubens, purple 
Aug-ustum, pale pink and spot 
Bagshot Park Seedlings, red and blush 
Bethelina, pink and rose 
Bicolor, pui-ple crimson 
Bishoppae, deep scarlet 
Boylese or Countess of Cork, white 
striped 

Broughtoneee, orange scarlet 
Brown's Princess Augusta, rose purple 
Chr>^santhemifolia, deep pink 
Citriodorum, white and spots 
Cleopatra superba, white striped 
Commander-in-Chief, blush and spots 
Concolor, puriyiish pink 
Concolor major, purple rose 
Coronata, purple 
Coronation, white and stripes 
Corruscans, purple striped 
Coutsiae, light rose 
Cupid, pink and blush 
Daveyanum, dark crimson 
Decorum, orange red and spots 
Defiance, light scarlet 
Dependens, white blotched 
Diver silobum, light rose 
Duchess of Kent, lilac pencilled 
Duchess of St. Alban's, white & stripes 
Echinatum, white and spots 
Eximium or Catherine Stuart, blush 
Fairlieae, lilac and white 
Feronia, deep rose and crimson 
Flammula, rose and pink 
Flexuosum, deep scarlet 
Floccosum, purplish pink 



Foliacea, orange scarlet 
Foliacea major, orange scarlet 
Folio sum, pui-ple 
Formosum, white and stripes 
Fusciflorum, pui-ple 
General Riego, dark rose 
Georgiana, pale pink 
Glaucum, white 

Grandidentatum, white and purple 
stripes 

Grandiflomm, white and stripes 
Grandiflorum minor, white and spots 
Grandiflorum purpurea, pui-ple lilac 
Graveolens or Rose Scented, lilac 
Graveolens, Striped Leaved, lilac 
Hammerslsei, light rose 
Helen, blush and crimson spots 
Heselrigii or Lord Cochrane, dark 

purple 
Hibiscifolium, light rose 
Humei, dark rose purple 
Husseyanum, pink lilac 
Ignescens, scarlet 
Ignescens major, scarlet and spot 
Incm-^Tim, orange scarlet 
Ingram's Princess Royal, dark purple 
Involucratum, white and stripes 
Jenkinsoni, white and dark spots 
Lady Essex, pink and stripes 
Lady Rowden, pink striped 
Lady Stamford, pale pink and spots 
Lanceolatum, white and spots 
Lanfordiae, white striped 
Latifolium, rose 
Latilobimi, scarlet and stripes 
Leopold, pale pink lilac 
Lord Combermere, purplish rose 
Lord Lyndoch, fine rose 
Macranthon, white and stripes 
Majestum, purple 

Marshall's Duke of York, lilac striped 
Marshall's Oldenburgh, blush striped 



108 THE GERA 

Matilda, rose and pink 
Mattocksianum, white and spots 
Megaleion or De Vere, rose 
Memnon, rose 

Moreanum or More's Victory, deep 
scarlet 

Mucronatum, pink and stripes 
Murreyanum, li^ht purple 
Naimii or Anne Boleyn, pink and rose 
Oblatum or Emily, pale pink 
Obscurum, white and dark spots 
Optabile, white and stripes 
Palkii, purple crimson 
Pansiana, lilac and purple 
Pavoninum, pink and spots 
Planifolium, lig-ht rose 
Potteri superba, orang-e scarlet 
Prince of Orang-e, blush and spots 
Princess Charlotte, rose purple 
Pulcherrimum, light purple 



M HOUSE. 



Quinquevulnerum, deep purple 
Ramigerum or Paul Pry, rose striped 
Rhodanthum, deep pink 
Rowena, lilac 

Royal Purple, dark rose purple 
Rubescens or Lady Liverpool, pale 

pink 
Rugosum, purple 
Scarboroviae, white striped 
Scutatum C, white and stripes 
Seymourei, purple 
Sh'akspeare, deep rose and pink 
Sir Walter Scott, pale pink 
Smithii, light rose and pink 
Spectabile, light rose 
Spectabile azureum, purplish pink 
Spectabile maculatum, light spotted 
Spectabile purpureum, purplish rose 
Spectabile striatum, light striped 
Spectabile villosum, light rose 



109 



THE CAMELLIA HOUSE. 

The Camellia House, which, besides this splendid gen as of flowering 
plants, might contain the magnificent Nepal Rhododendrons, the best 
varieties of tender English hybrids, as well as the Chinese Magnolias, 
whose rich perfume would amply make up for the absence of fragrance in 
the two former genera, as well as some other plants of kindred habits. 
Of the genus Camellia, there are in this country at present, six species, and 
above two hundred varieties ; and the collections of these plants on the 
continent are still more extensive. We have seen in one collection alone, 
that of M. Makoy, of Liege, in Belgium, above two hundred and twenty 
varieties of greater or less merit ; and in the collection of M. Parmentier, 
of Enghien, in the same country, no less than four hundi-ed varieties. 
There appears to be at present quite a mania on the continent for increas- 
ing the number of varieties of this plant, and in this, as in most similar 
cases, many varieties scarcely differ from each other, certainly not so mueh 
as to induce us to recommend above one third of the number for general 
purposes. 

Few plants are more easily cultivated than the Camellia, particularly 
when they are grown in a house by themselves ; and few plants are so 
universally admired. Many persons are, we beheve, deterred from cul- 
tivating CameUias from an erroneous supposition that they require the 
accommodation of a conservatory or greenhouse, and cannot be grown 
without ; — than this, nothing is more absurd, for not only can CameUias 
be cultivated in great perfection in pits or frames, protected merely by the 
glass lights ; and occasionally, in the most severe weather, by a mat thrown 
over them ; but they are also found to thrive exceedingly well when planted 
out in a warm and well-sheltered border, or shrubbery ; without any pro- 
tection whatever excepting a little dry fern, moss, or Utter, laid over the 
ground in which they are planted. Certainly, to have CamelUas in the 
first degree of exceUence they should be kept in a glass house, but that 
they wUl flower and grow weU in the open air, in favourable situa- 
tions, is also certain ; and the day may not be far distant when the 
CamelUa wUl be found as much the ornament of our shrubberies as the 
Pyrus japonica, Corchorus japonica, Ancuba japonica, and other plants 
from the same countiT, and which were aU witliin ourrecoUcction, treated 



110 



THE CAMELLIA HOUSE. 



as greenhouse plants, although experience has long ago taught us that 
they are as hardy as any plant in our shrubberies. 

Of the plants possessing sufficient beauty or fragrance to be admitted 
into this description of house along with the CamelUa, we may mention, 
Nerium Oleander, and its splendid varieties, Illicium floridanum, Daphne 
odora, Luculia gratissimay Magnolia fascata, &c. And as scandent plants, 
to be trained up under the rafters of the roof, we would recommend Ken- 
nedy a, various species, Wistaria chinensis, Caprifolium jajmnioum, Tecoma 
gi^andiflora, Passiflora Loudonii et Jcermesinaj Jasminum grandifiorum, &c. 
A house so furnished, would be sufficiently interesting throughout the year, 
and never without blossom, or the most delightful fragrance. Such a 
house, perhaps, does not exist ; but we cannot surely be accused of extra- 
vagance in anticipating such an event, when we consider the rapid strides 
that the principles of order and taste are making amongst the followers of 
Flora ; and when these principles are understood along with the practice of 
Floriculture, we shall see houses arranged according to the rules laid down 
in the foregoing pages. 



STRUCTURES CALCULATED FOR THE GROWTH OF CAMELLIAS. 

The varieties of Camelha, of which there are many, are found indigenous 
in the tea districts of China and Japan, in a temperature by no means 
high, and sometimes falhng even below the freezing point. The varieties 
originated in this country, of which there are many, are equally hardy ; 
and in many situations they have been found to thrive exceedingly well 
when planted in the open borders. The plants which agree with them 
in culture, and enumerated previously as being proper inmates of the same 
house, are equally hardy, and have also been found to resist the cold of 
our ordinary winters, when planted in favourable situations. Protection 
merely from intense frosts, is aU that is required artificially, to preserve 
tJiese plants ; but to have them flower at an early period of the season, 
which appears to accord with their natm'al period of blooming, it is neces- 
sary that they be placed under the protection of a glass house. 

The situation and aspect which will suit the CameUia and its allies, may 
be of a description which would by no means suit the section last treated 
of. There is no doubt but that these plants will thrive in houses having a 
southern exposm'e, but that they vriU also succeed in those having an op- 
posite exposure, is sufficiently demonstrated in practice. A Camellia house, 
therefore, may be erected without especial regard to that particular. It 



THE CAMELLIA HOUSE. 



Ill 



is, however, at the same time necessary, that the situation be not 
shaded by buildings or high trees, nor placed in too low and damp a 
situation. 

The accompanying diagrams will explain what we consider to be the 
best form of houses adapted for this section of plants, that is to say, if 
such are to be built expressly for the purpose. The first may be erected 
against the north wall either of a dwelling house or greenhouse already 
existing. In such case, a communication should be made between them, 
either at the centre, or at both ends : by this means, the party wall will 
serve for two houses. If the erection be against the dweUing house it 
will be convenient to have a door of communication, to admit of access in 
wet weather, and for the greater convenience of the owner at all seasons. 
The CameUia house may, with great propriety, be placed behind the Heath 
house, aU other circumstances being favourable. An arrangement of this 
sort win save space and expense, while it must be admitted to be the most 
convenient in many other respects. 

A glance at the annexed figure will explain that the platform in front, 
over the flue, is intended for small plants, while the platform behind, 
which should be raised to the height of about from six to twelve inches, 
is intended for the larger specimens. Camellias, Ehododendrons, &c., 
upJike most other greenhouse exotics, increase in value as they increase 
in size, therefore plenty of room should be allowed them in the house, so 
that aU sides of the plants may present a perfect outline. 




The next view represents a span-roofed house, a species of greenhouse to 
wliich we are partial, as it admits of more light and space, with less brickwork, 
and is, upon the whole, more economical in the erection than most other 



112 



THE CAMELLIA HOUSE. 



forms of equal convenience and capacity. The raised platform which 
occupies the middle of the house, and is about six inches or a foot above 
the level of the floor, is intended for the plants to stand on, in the order 
in w^hich they are represented in the annexed sketch. The flue at 
which passes along the centre of the said platform, is placed there for 
precaution only, as, if the roof be covered as recommended in the 
case of the Heathery, no frost will reach the plants to injure them. 
We may here remark that much more harm is done to all greenhouse 
exotics by the application of too much fire heat, than by the opposite 
extreme. A narrow shelf runs round the house, on which the smallest 
plants are to be set. 

In regard to the height of a CameUia house, that must be determined 
by the size of the plants intended to be cultivated ; and as it cannot be 
conveniently altered after the first erection, it will be better to elevate the 
platform to a sufl[icient height to suit the plants while they are small, and 
to lower it progressively as they advance in height. 




PROPAGATION AND TREATMENT WHEN YOUNG. 

The Camellia is propagated by cuttings, seeds, budding, grafting, inarch- 
ing, and sometimes by lapng. The single red variety is propagated by 
cuttings, layers, and seeds ; the two former, for stocks on which to bud or 
inarch the better kinds, and by seeds, with a view to procure new 
varieties. 

In propagating by cuttings, the month of August has been found to be 



PSOPAGATIOX BY CUTTIXGS, 



113 



the proper season, and the shoots selected for this pm-pose should be 
weU ripened, and of the preceding summer's gi'ovrth ; younger shoots than 
these are apt to damp off, and older ones requii'e a much longer period to 
form roots, and often fail to do so entirely. The best situation for them 
is a cold fi'ame, merely covered '^th the hglits and shaded from the sun, 
excluding the ah' as much as possible until they have begun to make roots, 
■when it should be admitted to them gradually unril they can stand both 
the full force of the sun and air Trithout Sagging. Upon a large scale, 
the cuttings may be set in the bed, in a preparation made for them of hah" 
peat and half light loam, dibbled in pretty thickly, and the mould made 
firm round thek stems. And upon a smaher scale, they may be planted 
in pots, or deep pans, properly di'ained, and filled ^ith the same mould 
as above. 

Tovrards the following Afarch or April, they ^sill be^forming roots, which 
wHl be indicated by their making young shoots ; at this period their 
growth will be very much forwarded if they be placed in a gentle heat 
and kept pretty moist ; the atmosphere of a common cucumber bed, but 
with considerably less heat, wiU suit them weU. There will be no diSculty 
in removing such as are in pots, but those that are planted in the mould 
in the pit, must be taken carefully up, potted, and placed in their proper 
situation. By the middle of summer the most foiT-rard will be in a fit 
state for potting into single pots, and the more tardy by October or 
November. 

The most usual method of propagating by cuttings is to select them 
from plants of the single red variety, wliich is thought to strike 
sooner, and with greater certaint\' than the double varieties. Some cul- 
tivators, however, maintain a different opinion, and assert that double sorts 
may be raised by cuttings as successfully as the single ones, and also that 
plants originated from double sorts make as good and as lasting specimens 
as those originated from the single ones, a cu'cumstance we see no reason 
to doubt, although such is not generally acknowledged. 

The following routine has been found very successful in striking double- 
fiowered Camelhas from cuttings. Cuttings of the previous year's growth 
are selected in March, and cut off' exactly at the junction of the wood 
with that which is a year older. The soil used is sandy peat, and the 
cuttings are placed round and close to the edges of the pots. BeU glas^s 
are placed over them, and the pots are plunged about half their depth 
in a 77iiM bottom heat. They are kept in this state until they have 
pushed and completed their first growth, v\-hen they are removed to a 
vinen-, or similar temperature dimng the winter. The young cuttings ai'e 



lU 



THE CAMELLIA HOUSE. 



plauted off into small pots about the end of Januaiy, or the beginning of 
February, after which they are placed in a temperature of from sixty five 
to seventy degrees till about the beginning of June, when they are fit 
for removal into the Camellia house or greenhouse. 



PROPAGATION BY SEEDS. 

Seeds should be sown as soon as they are fully ripe, or imported, in pots 
filled with peat and loam, and placed in a cool pit, from which frost is 
excluded. They require about two years to come up, after which they 
should be treated exactly as cuttings. 

Seeds of the CameUia are sometimes imported from China and Japan ; 
these requii-e a long period to germinate, and some of them, like many 
other similar seeds from India, frequently lose their vegetative properties 
entirely, before they arrive in this countiy. It has been suggested, that 
if seeds so situated were immersed in oxahc acid, or folded up in a 
cloth moistened with that acid, germination would be accelerated ; but 
they should not remain longer in the acid than the moment germination 
has commenced, when they should be sown in pots in mould prepared 
for them. 

An anonymous contributor to the IIorricultiu*al Cabinet observes, ^' I 
have paid some attenrion to raising seedlings, and have been most amply 
repaid by some veiy handsome and peculiarly striking varieties. ^ly 
practice is to study which admixture of two sorts are likely to produce 
the most striking distinct colours, and to impregnate accordingly. I 
apply the farina by means of a camel hair pencil, and for a fortnight 
afreiTrai'ds do not allow am- water to faU upon the flowers. I have 
uniformly foimd my seedlings to take the habit of growth of the parent 
sort each individual plant pai'took most of in colour, whether of the male 
or female. 

I usually force the Camelhas under my charge, so that they bloom 

from September rill April, thus having opportunity of impregnating 
early in spring, v. liicli I generally do in Febmary. or Mai'ch : by this 
means I eer the seeds well ripened. When the seed is ripe, I retain it in 
its cay snl till the following Tebniaiy, when I sow it in small pots filled 
^ ~ sandy loam, and place it in moist heat. When the plants are 
- ^ ^ . - .-:es high, I pot them singly into small pots, being careful to have 
them Y. ell di-ained with broken potsherds. After keeping the plants in 



PROPAGATION BY GRAFTIIS^G. 



115 



the moist heat for a fortniglit, I remove tliem into a vineiy, and gradually 
inure them unto the green house temperatui^e." 

Plants so originated are sometimes permitted to grow on till they flovrer, 
when, if the variety be considered not of smncient merit to be kept as 
such, they may then be used as stocks on Tvhicli to bud or inarch the 
other good kinds. CameUia stocks can never be too large ; for if they 
Ttete even several feet high and furnished Trith several branches, each of 
these could be operated upon, and consequently a large plant woidd be 
produced in a short time. 

It is rarely that any shade of difference foUovrs plants originated from 
-seeds, unless artificial fecundation has been stiictly attended to. 



PROPAGATION BY GRAFTING, 

Is very frequently adopted, particularly when the sorts intended to be 
increased do not aheady exist in the same collection. This process is 
best accomphshed when done in spring, about the period vrhen the plants 
begin to grow. The kind of grafting most generally practiced is side- 
grafting, which is one of the most common in use, and therefore requires 
uo elucidation, fiuther, than as the stocks are often weak, clay should not 
be used, as the quantity necessary would be too weight^" for the stock to 
carry. A httle fine moss, kept rather damp, will be a good substitute, 
and the grafting wax of the French may be here used to advantage. It 
tends considerably to insm^e success in tliis process, if the end of the graft 
or scion be left a few inches longer than where the union is intended to 
take place, so that its end may be immerged in a phial of water, or stuck 
into a smaU potatoe, or turnip. From either of these soiu'ces the graft 
will derive nourishment until it is supplied fi'om the stock. 

Side grafting is so called from being pertbrmed on the side of the stock, 
and differs httle from whip, or tongue grafting, which latter is that in 
general use in nm'series upon plants generally. In side grafting, the bark 
and a httle of the wood of the stock is taken off in a slanting dhection, 
the lower end of the scion is also cut, so as to fit the part as nearly as 
possible, they are then brought together, tied fast with bass, and clayed,, 
or mossed over. 

CameUias, like most other woody plants, may be also propagated by 
several other modes of grafting, of wliich about seven or eight varieties 
are practised in this country. The French have carried this matter much 
farther, for we find the late Professor Thouin has described about fortv 

i2 



116 



THE CAMELLIA HOUSE, 



(lifFerent modes, and about fifty different modes of budding. In the 
earlier ages of horticulture, the art of grafting was considered little short 
of magic, it is, however, now well understood, and may be practised by the 
curious as an amusement. Those who wish to study the philosophy of 
this art, may consult with advantage the works of Thouin, Pu Hamel, 
Rosier, and Quintiney, amongst the French : Sickler, Clirist, and Mayer, 
amongst the Germans ; and PhiUp Miller, Cmtis, Knight, and others 
amongst the English. 



PROPAGATING BY BUDDING, 



Is very much practised of late years, particularly in regard to new or 
very rare varieties, for by this means a shoot of seven buds, for example, 
if grafted or inarched would produce one, or at most two plants, while 
if the budding system be foUovred, as many plants as there are buds will 
be the produce. To such an extent is this mode of propagation carried 
on amongst continental cultivators, that they fix the price of their plants 
by the number of leaves or buds that they contain. Budding may be 
performed at almost any period of the summer, the plants operated on 
being kept in a moist and rather warm propagating house. In the case 
of budding and also of grafting; if the stocks be small and the operation 
performed near the bottom of the plant, they wiU be much benefitted by 
being placed under hand glasses until the union takes place, and indeed 
until the bud, or scion, has grown for a few inches, and not till then can 
the heads of the stock be cut off, vritliout a risk of failure, because, as it 
has been justly remarked by a writer upon this subject in the Hort. Register, 
an exuberance of sap is thus thrown into the scions before they are 
sufficiently established to receive it without injury ; just as too great a 
supply of nutriment , injures the infant of the human race ; neither should 
the ligatures and clay be removed before that time ; these remarks are also 
applicable to the young inarched plants. After this, all the plants should 
have their tops nipped off to two or three buds, or they may be removed 
by inarching or grafting them, if it be wished to increase the stock of the 
variety ; but unless one of these precautions be followed, the plants will 
very probably run up with a single stem, and instead of being bushy and 
pyramidal, vrill be loose and rambMng, and must eventually be cut down. 
"When the plants are headed down they should be kept in a gentle hot 
bed, or moderately close frame, and should they show a disposition to 



INARCHIXG, 117 

grow straggling or ^Teak, the shoots should be from time to time 
shoitened. 



PROPAGATING BY INARCHING, 

Is the most common and also the most expeditious and certain mode 
of any, and is performed in general in spring, vrhen the plants are be- 
ginning to grow. The essential difference between this mode and that of 
grafting, as noticed above, is only in placing the plants, as represented 
below, so that neither the one nor the other is displaced until the uniom 
has fully taken place, when they may be separated and treated like plants 
that have been grafted. 




TnBTching may be performed during the summer and autumn, after the 
ripening of the wood, or early in spring before the plants begin to grow. 
It is not necessar}^ to use clay in operating by this method, a httle damp 
soft moss slightly tied round the part where the union is to take place is 



118 



THE CAMELLIA HOUSE. 



quite sufficient. In general, the union will have taken place and the scions 
may be cut from the parents in about two months. 

But the accompanying engravings and their description will conyey to 
the reader a better idea of the process of inarching than any description 
we could give. 

Supposing then, that the plants to be inarched are in a fit condition 
for the work, choose a new clean portion of the stem of the stock, as near 
the scion as possible, then take a clear portion of the stem of the stock as 
near the size of the scion as you can, then take a slice of the bark with a 
small piece of the wood oif, about the length of one inch and three 
quarters, as at c, fig. 1. Bring the scion close, and take the exact length 




of the naked part of the stock a, and make a similar place bare in tte 
scion, as at h, fig. 2. "^Mien this is done, cut a tongue in the stock, or s 
wedge-slope gap, as at c, fig, 3, to receive the tongue d, fig. 4 ; by this 
means the scion may be hooked on to the stock to insure firmness, as 
shown at e, fig. 5. Whtn they have been thus brought together, care 



IXASCHIXG 



119 



must be taken that the two barks meet exactly down one side. They may 
be easily so placed when hooked together ; and then the best way is, to 




secure the top by t^ing it round firmly with damp bass ; and after this 
very httle care will insure the bark of the stock and scion meeting at their 
edges down one side. On the proper jmiction of these parts of course all 
depends, and as soon as they are so fixed, bind them together firmly with 
a smooth piece of new matting as at fig. 6. A small piece of clay may 
be placed over the bandage to exclude the air, and over this a Httle damp 
moss may be apphed to keep the clay from cracking. If the plants are in a 
good growing state, in six weeks or two months the union will be so perfect 
as to admit of the scion being separated from the parent plant. After 
this, the plant had better be allowed to remain a short time, — say eight 
or ten days ; and if then the plant continues to look in health, the ban- 
dage may be entirely removed, and the part re-bound with a broader 
piece of matting, to prevent it from swelhng out and becoming unsightly. 
Over it a little damp moss may with advantage be placed ; the whole 



120 



THE CAMELLIA HOUSE. 



band may, from time to time> be loosened, and entirely removed as soon 
as the scion appears quite established. 



PROPAGATING BY LAYING, 

Is seldom practised miless by nurserymen upon an extensive scale, and 
v^^ho have Camellia stools planted out in pits, protected during winter by 
glass, mats, or other covering. The process of laying is performed in 
spring, and is the same as that practised with other evergreens. The year 
following, the young plants are taken off the stool, potted, and afterwards 
used as stocks. 



GENERAL TREATMENT W^HEN IN THE HOUSE. 

In a Camelha house ha\ing a north aspect, was it not that the plants 
would in most cases stand too crovrded dming the summer, we would 
prefer to keep them always in ; but in houses having a southern aspect, 
we would remove them out into the open air dming the heat of sum- 
mer into a cool shaded situation, for Camellias do not like an excess of 
heat, whether from the sun or from artificial means. The only season 
vdien a sUght heat is advantageously apphed is, when they are making 
their young wood, at which period also they require an extra supply of 
water, not only at their roots, but over their foUage also. To prolong the 
flowering season of this splendid family, it might be well to remove a few^ 
of them in succession into a winery, or cool stove, to forward their bloom- 
ing, but this must be done at the period when they are making their wood, 
or rather before that period naturally arrives, say March, or even the end 
of February ; the intention being to forward the formation of wood, and 
consequently flower buds also. When the flower buds are formed, they 
should then be placed in the coolest part of the Camelha house, and less 
abundantly supplied with water. If three or four sections of plants be so 
treated, they vriU come into bloom in the same order, and keep up a con- 
siderable display until the general collection come into bloom at thek 
natm-al season. 

The Camellia is easily cultivated, the few following rules being attended 
to viz., never allov,^ them to become too dry at the root, which they are 
liable to do, particularly if under potted. An extreme of moisture is also 
to be guarded against. Keep them cool while they are coming into bloom. 



TEEATMEXT IN THE HOUSE. 



121 



and dui'ing the period wlien they are so. Keep them rather close, shghtly 
warrQ, and very moist while making their wood. Give them plenty of 
pot room, particularly large specimens, but under no cux'umstances plant 
them out in the borders of the house. Shade them from the sun, and 
never apply heat to them when coming into flower, nor during the period 
of flowering, for the buds will neither expand so well, nor will they con- 
tinue so long in perfection. 

After the flower buds are formed, great cai'e ought to be taken that the 
plants are not neglected from want of water, even for the shortest time, 
as if such should be permitted, the flower buds will be certain to fall ofl". 
Such also would be the case if an undue application be indulged in. We 
find Mr. Paxton attributes the falling off of the flower buds to another 
cause, viz., the sudden changes of temperature ; but in our opinion this 
latter species of mismanagement has less Cifect upon the Camellia than 
he appears to think. 

" The great reason," says Mr. P., " why the flower buds veiy often fall 
off, without coming properly into bloom, is, the too sudden changes in 
the temperatme to which they are exposed ; for instance, when the buds 
are nearly ready to expand, a sudden heat causes them to push forth too 
rapidly ; and, on the contrary, a decrease of warmth at that time checks 
their growth, and, in both cases causes them to fall. It is astonisliing 
how veiy easily the flower buds, when nearly ready to expand, are acted 
upon by heat or cold, the variation of only a few degrees will considerably 
afiect them ; it is therefore absolutely necessary that gi'eat attention should 
be paid to them at that time, particularly if it be in the winter season ; 
in the spring so much care is not required, as in general each succeding 
day is a little warmer than its predecessor ; but in the winter months, 
when the weather is so changeable, and the plants are only excited by 
artificial means, the greatest care is requisite, in order to keep them from 
advancing too much, and also not to allow the temperatm'e to decrease, 
for fear of the flower buds falling ofi"." 

Camelhas may be forced so as to produce their flowers at almost any 
period of the year. 



GENERAL TREATMENT WHEN OUT OF DOORS. 

Having already stated our opinion upon the propriety of keeping 
Camellias at all seasons under glass, when the structure they are intended 
to inhabit is properly adapted for them, it only remains for us to observe, 



122 THE CAMELLIA HOUSE. 

that those which are to be placed for a time in the open air, should be 
arranged in a situation that is completely shaded from the mid-day's sun, 
and that they are also placed in a sheltered position, and abundantly sup- 
plied with water during dry and warm weather. The period when they 
can with, advantage be so placed is, in most seasons, from the beginning 
of June till the end of September ; but this depends very much upon the 
progress the young wood has made, prior to the former of those dates. 
The young wood should be fully formed and partially ripened before they 
are turned out ; at this period the flower buds also mil have been formed. 
In cold wet seasons, it may be necessar}^ to remove them earher into the 
house, wiiere they should have air abundantly admitted to them, to ripen 
the wood and fully mature the flower buds. 



SOIL. 

Some writers recommend peat mould alone ; and others, a compound of 
peat, loam, rotten dung and vegetable mould. Our opinion is, that a light, 
yellow loam, mth a veiy small portion of peat, is to be prefen-ed ; and in 
this we are borne out by the practice of ^Messrs. Loddiges, and Chandler 
and Sons, of Vauxhall, two of the most successful cultivators of this tribe 
of plants in England. 



SHIFTING OR POTTING. 

The months of Febmary and March, about which period the flowering 
season is past, are the times recommended for this operation by the most 
successful cultivators ; with a view to obtain large specimens, frequent shift- 
ing is necessary, as the roots may extend to the extremity of the balls, 
while, to obtain abundance of bloom upon moderately sized plants, the 
best practice is to confine the roots to a reasonable extent, at the same time 
to give a moderate quantity of water at all times. "VVTien the opera- 
tion of potting is finished^ the plants should be placed in a temperature of 
from sixty five to seventy five degrees, during the day, and fi'om five to ten 
degrees of less temperature during the night. The apphcation of a mild 
and somewhat humid heat, at this period, is of vast importance to the 
growth of the Camellia ; for without it, the buds would break weakly, 
and instead of producing vigourous shoots of from four to twelve inches 
in length, would only push to the extent of an inch or two, and in the 



SHIFTING AXD RE-POTTIXG. 



123 



course of a year or two the plants would assume a stinted and sickly ap- 
pearance, from which it would be difficult to recover them. The appli- 
cation of heat must not, however, be carried too far, else the consequence 
would be as bad on the contrary extreme, and the wood produced would 
be slender and devoid of flower buds. \Mien the young wood has 
completed its growth, the temperature should be raised to about ten de- 
grees above that recommended ; this increase of temperature is intended 
to enable the plants to form their flower buds in perfection and abundance. 
It requires some degree of observation, to ascertain the proper period of 
thus increasing the temperature, as it should take place just as the young 
wood has completed its growth, and before it has begim to tmn hard, or 
of a woody texture. 



124 



SELECT LIST OF CAMELLIAS. 



WHITE. 



Lady Bank's Camellia. {Ca. Sasauqua.) 
Flowers in February and November, 
in peat and loam. Inarcliing, g-raft- 
ing', budding-, laying-, and cutting-s. 

Lady Bank's double white Camellia. 
(Ca. Sasanqi/a ploia alba.) Flowers 
in February and November, in peat 
and loam. Inarching-, g-enerally, as 
is the case with all the family. 

Lady Bank's semi-double white Ca- 
mellia. (Ca. setul-plena alba.) Flow- 
ers in February and November, in 
peat and loam. Inarching-. 

Spotted Camellia. (Ca. punctata. ) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 

Rose-of-the-World Camellia. (Ca. rosa 
mundi.) Flowers in February and 
May, in peat and loam. Inarching-. 

White anemone - flowered Camellia. 
(Ca. anemoneflora alba.) Flowers in 
February and INIay, in peat and loam. 
Inarching. 

Sabin's Camellia. ( Ca. Sabiniana. ) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 

Allnutt's Camellia. (Ca. Allnuttia.) 



Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 

Single white CameUia. ( Ca. alba. ) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 

Flavescent Camellia. (Ca. jiavesceyis.) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 

Welbank's Camellia. (Ca. Welbankii.) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 

Variable white Waratah CameUia. 
(Ca. variabilis.) Flowers in Feb- 
ruary and May, in peat and loam. 
Inarching. 

Fringed white Camellia. ( Ca. fim- 
briata.) Flowers in February and 
May, in peat and loam. Inarching. 

Press''s eclipse Camellia.^(Ca. eclipsis.) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 

Compact Camellia. ( Ca. compacta.) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 

Palmer's Camellia. ( Ca. ^Palmerii. ) 
Flowers in February and I^Iay, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 



RED. 



Single red CamiUia. ( Ca. rubra. ) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Eeticulated Camellia. (Ca. reticulata.) 
Flowers in April and June, in peat 
and loam. Inarching, 

Semi-double red Camellia. (Ca. semi- 
duplex.) Flowers in February and 
May, in peat and loam. Inarching 
or grafting. 

Double red Camellia. (Ca. rubro plena.) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 

Flesh-coloured Camellia. (Ca. carnea.) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 



Thick-nerved Camellia. (Ca. crassi- 
nervis.) Flowers in February and 
May, in peat and loam. Inarching. 

Expanded Camellia. (Ca. expansa.) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 

Shell-flowered Camellia. (Ca. conchi- 
flora.) Flowers in February and 
'May, in peat and loam. Inarching. 

Long-leaved Camellia. ( Ca. longi- 
folia.) Flowers in February and 
May, in peat and loam. Inarching. 

M>Ttl'e-leaved Camellia. (Ca, myrti- 
folia.) Flowers in Februaiy and 
;May, in peat and loam. Inarching. 



SELECT LIST 



125 



Dark red Cameliia. {Ccl atrorubens.) 
Flo^yers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching-. 

Anemone - flowered Camellia. ( Ca. 
anemoneflora. ) Flowers in Feb- 
ruary and ;May, in peat and loam. 
Inarching. 

Involute Camellia. ( Ca. involuta, ) 
Flowers in Februaiy and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching-. 

Hexangular Camellia. {Ca. hexangu- 
laris.) Flowers in February- and 
IMay, in peat and loam. Inarching. 

Carnation-flowered AVaratah Camellia. 
{Ca. dianthiflora.) Flowers in Feb- 
ruary and May, in peat and loam. 
Inarching. 

Red-stemmed Camellia. ( Ca. ruhri- 
caulis.) Flowers in February and 
May, in peat and loam. Inarching. 

Aucni3a-leaTed Camellia. {Ca. aiicuhce- 
folia.) Flovrers in February and 
March, in peat and loam. Inarch- 
ing, grafting, or budding. 

Great-flowered Camellia. {Ca. grandi- 
flora.) Flowers in February and 
jMay, in peat and loam. Inarching. 

Dwarf Camellia. {Ca. nana.) Flowers 
in February and j.Iay, in peat and 
loam. Inarching. 

Aiton's Camellia. {Ca. Aitonii.) Fiow- 
ers in February and May, in peat and 
loam. Inarching. 

Fxowery C^me^l\?L.^{Ca. forida.) Flow- 
ers in February and ;^Iay, in peat 
and loam. Inarching. 

Splendid Camellia. {Ca. sjyJendens.) 
"Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam, inarching. 

Beautiful Camellia. ( Ca. concbina.) 
Flowers in February and ^May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 

Wood's Camellia. {Ca. Woodli.) PxOw- 



ers in February and May, in peat 
i and loam. Inarching, 
i Rose-like Camellia. {Ca. rosea.) Flow- 
I ers in February and May, in peat 
j and loam. Inarching. 
; Berlezi's Camellia. {Ca. Berleziana.) 
I Fiowers in February and May, in 
! peat and loam. Inarching, 
i Gray's Camellia. {Ca. Gray a.) Flow- 
j ers in February and Islay, in peat and 
I loam. Inarching, budding, or graft- 
\ ing. 

I Ross's Camelha. {Ca. Rossii.) Fiow- 

i ers in Februaiy and May, in peat and 

; loam. Inarching. 
Spatulate Camellia. {Ca. spaiidata.) 

I Flowers in Februaiy and iNlay, in 

! peat and loam. Inarching. 

I Hollyhock - flowered Camellia. {Ca. 

; alfii^iflora.) Flowers in February 
and ]\Iay, in peat and loam. In- 
arching.' 

, Press's Camellia. {Ca. Pressil.) Flow- 
; ers in Februaiy and May, in peat 
! and loam. Inarching. 
Reeves's Camellia. ( Ca. Reevesiana.) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 
Elegant Camellia. ( Ca. elegans. ) 
I Fiowers in February and May, In 
! peat and loam. Inarching'. 
I Imbricated Camellia. {Ca. imbricata. ) 
I Flowers in February and 3Iay, in 
j peat and loam. Inarching. 
1 xlllnutt's superb Camellia. {Ca. AU- 
\ nutria siiperba.) Rowers in Feb- 
1 ruary and ZMay, in peat and loam. 
I Inarching. 
Beale's Camellia. {Ca.Bealeii.) Flow- 
ers in Februaiy and May, in peat 
and loam. Inarching, budding, or 
grafting. 



BLUSH. 



Paeony-flowered Camellia. {Ca.pceonice- 
/fora.) Flowers in Februaiy and 
May, in peat and loam. Inarching. 

Blush Waratah Camellia. {Ca. blanda.) 
Flowers in Februaiy and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 



Pompone Camellia. {Ca. pornponia.) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam.- Inarching. 

CoiviUe's Camellia. ( Ca. Colvillii. ) 
Fiowers in February and Mav, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 



SCARLET. 



Coral-flowered Camellia. {Ca. coral- i 
Una.) Flowers in Febraaiy and 
May, in peat and loam. Inarching. 

Splendid Camellia. { Ca. Lisignis.) 
Flowers in Februaiy and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 



Scarlet Camellia. ( Ca. coccinea. ) 
Flowers in Februaiy and Mav, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 

Poppy-flowered Camellia. \Ca. papa- 
veracea.) Flowers in February and 
May, in peat and loam. Inarchiiis:. 



126 



THE CAMELLIA HOUSE. 



Elegant Camellia. ( Ca. elegans. ) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 

Sweet's Camellia. {Ca. Sweetiana.) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching, grafting, 
or budding. 



Neat Camellia. {Ca. concinna.) Flow- 
ers in Febmary and May, in peat 
and loam. Inarching. 

China rose Camellia. {Ca. rosa sin- 
ensis.) Flowers in February and 
May, in peat and loam. Inarching. 



YELLOW. 



Pale-yellow Camellia. {Ca. luteo-alha.) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 



Incarnate Camellia. {Ca. incarnata.) 
Flowers in Februaiy and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 



Chandler's striped Waratah Camellia. 
{Ca. Chancllerii.) Flowers in Feb- 
ruary and May, in peat and loam. 
Inarching. 

Clowe's Camellia. ( Ca. Cloweana.) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
peat and loam. Inarching. 



King's Camellia. {Ca. Kingii.) Flow- 
ers in February and May, in peat 
and loam. Inarching. 

Single red-spotted Camellia. {Ca. riibro 
punctata.) Flowers in February and 
May, in peat and loam. Inarching. 



if ' 



127 



LIST OF CAMELLIAS IN THE COLLECTION OF M. MAKOY, 
AT LIEGE, 

WITH THEIR PRICES IN FRANCS. 

This is,per7iapSi the most extensive List of Camellias ever published, amounting 
to 294 varieties, and will shew icith what zeal our neighbours on the continent 
attend to this department. Many of those ichich are of foreign origin have been 
introduced into England; some, however, in the annexed List have not yet 
reached us. 



Camellia euryoides grandiflora 
rosea 

rosea grandiflora 
japonica 

japonica Adelaide 
AdJemanni . 
japonica alba grandi 

flora 
*Aitoni 
albo pi. 
*albo simplex 
*albo simplex striata 
Almet 

*Alnut's splendens 
altlioeiflora . 
*amabilis . 
*Amlierstia 
anemoniflora ( red 

waratah) . 
anemoniflora alba 
anemoniflora rosa de 

Press 
Antwerpensis 
Apunga 
*argehtea . 
atrorubens . 
atroviolacea 
*aucnbifolia 
augusta (Dernii) 
Barnebiana 
Bedfordii . 
*belle Henriette 
belle de Wilhemshahe 
*belle Rosalie 
Blackburuia 
*blanda 



8 a 15 
1 



2,50— 6 
2—50 
2—10 



4— 8 
3—10 
5 
6 

2—50 



25 
15 
6 

3— 6 

2— 15 

6 

3— 6 
7—12 

10 
6 



Camellia Brookiana . 
Brownii 
Buckiiana . 
Buckii 
candidissima 
Campbeliii . 
*cardinalis . 
carnea 
Carswelliana 
*Carolus . 
Casseli 
Cliandleri . 
Cliai'les Augnste 
Clavresiana . 
Clintoniae . 
caelestina . 
*Clintoniae de Knigbt 
Cliveana 
*coccinea . 
CoUa 
Colletti 
colorata nova 
Colvillii 
Colvillii rubra 
compacta . 
compacta rubra (con 

color fol. var.) 
*conchiflora 
concinna 
consplcua . 
conspiqua dcLoddegt 
coiallina (Carolina) 
coruation waratah 
coronata 
*crassifolia 
*ciassinervis 



25 





4 




5 


8 a 20 


7 




15 


5 


0—16 


2—10 


5—40 




5 


4 




3—10 


7 


4 




20 


)— 50 


4 






5—12 


7 


6 


6 


— 6 


3— 6 


;— 6 




4 


50 




30—50 


3 


10—20 




25 


-50 


4— S 


10 




-60 


15 


-30 


2— 6 


-25 


15—25 




5 




50 




3—25 


. be 


8 


J'ai 


10 

3 




rop 


3 






128 



THE CAMELLIA HOUSE. 



Camellia craenta 



ciirvatifolia 


20 a 30 


cruenta cle Knig'lit 


8 


daliliceflora 




Daelenii 


10 — 25 


Decandolli . 


6 


decipiens 


5 


decora 


6 


delect a 




delectabilis 


15—30 


delicatissima 


30 — ±0 


Derbevaiia . 


4— 8 


"diaiitlnliora(KiiigliLi) 


3— 6 


*diversifiora 


6 


Doiikelaari . 


25—50 


Dorsetti ' 


4 — 10 


double variesrated wa- 




rata.li de Kuisi'lit 


10 


eclit/S (res^iiia gallic a- 




riim) 


4—12 


Druiiinioiidi i 




diilcis 


25—40 


Egertonioe . 




electa 




elata de chandler 


25 


elata de Rolliiison 


25 


eieg'aiis de Chandler 




'■ele2"antissiiiia 


3 


Elphinstoniaiia 


6 


*excelsa ( Rollisoiii 




de Gaud) . 




exiniia 


7 — 12 


exouiensis . 


4 — 8 


exquesita 


15 — 30 


Fairleva 


]0 


*fa.sicularis 


6 


fiiiibriata 


3 — 10 


*flaccida 


3 


flammea 




flaninieola suDerba 




flavescens (buii) 


2—50 


florida 


3— 6 


*foliacea 




Floyii 


200 


Foordii 


15—30 


formosa 


5 


forniosa de young 




fulgentissinia . 


5 — 10 


Francofortensis(TVel- 




lingtonii) . 


20 — iO 


Fraserii 


12 


Frederic le Grand . 


200 




5 


gigantea (fulg'ida) 


4 — 8 


g"loria niundi 


6 


gloriosa 


4— 8 


^g-randissima 




*Grayia de Knight . 


8 


GaiTeyii 


25 


Gilliesii (Nancy Daw- 




son) 


20—40 


*Griffiini 


3 


Greenelii . 


30—60 


guttata 


40 


Kaieysia 


5 



Camellia Haylockii . 
helvola 
Render sonii 
Herbertii . 
heterophylla 
hexangularis (mons- 
trosa) (crassinervis 



rl p T n rl rl 


2 Q 




^ g 


Hibbertii 


g 


TTnttarti i 

XX\J3Cll-IVll • • 


50 


llLillllllO • • 




*bvbririfl polnrflta 


g 


i^iescens 


12 


imbricata 


IQ — 20 


inibricata alba 




*imperatrice du Bre- 




sil 




inca^'nata 


3 


IIIK^XJIIX^JCII dLflllo » 


15 


*insignis 


3 30 


"*insi''"nis alba 


3 3Q 


iliol^lllo 1 UUl Cl « 


3 30 


«i Uiiiiauiiii • . 


g 


%J LllldliCl • • 




Tn c*;! PI'S 11 


50—100 


*Kentii 




Kellvana 




King- 




Knight's comation 




war 


10 


*Knight's single scar- 




let war . 




Knight's white war . 




Laniberti . 


25 


lactea de Young 
Ladv Eieonore Camp- 


15—60 




beU 




Lansezeuriana 


3— 6 


latifolia macrantha . 


12—25 


*Lanckmanni 


3— 6 


Lehmanui (ardens) . 




linbriata 


3— 6 



Lindleyi (Goussonice) 
^s/Leeana superba 
Lefe^Tiana . 
lepidata 
lucida 

magnifica . 
marniorata . 
Martha 

Master's double red 
Mellinetti . 
Mexicana . 
minuta 
^multitiora . 
mutabilis . 
myrtifolia . 
nivea (gallica alba) 
nobilissima 
ochroleuca . 
ornata 
*Osbornea . 
oxoniensis de Knight 
paeonifiora . 



SELECT LIST. 



129 



/. /. 

Camellia Palmer's striped war 12 

Palmer's white . 10 
*papaveracea de lod- 

diges . . 4a20 
papavera. de Chand- 
ler . . 20 
Park's striped . 15 
Parthoniana . 20—30 
*penicillata 

pendala de Chandler 25 

*Percy8e . . 6 

pictm-ata . . 30 — iO 
pictorum coccineum . 

*plumaria . . 6 

pomponia . . 2 — 50 

Preston's eclips . 10 

*prince d'Orange . 4 

princeps . . S — 6 

Pronayana . . 10 
proegnans . .2,50 — 6 

pulchella . . 3 
pulcherina . 
punctata pi. (Banksiae) 



(splendida) . 


4 — 10 


punctata major 


40—60 


*purpurascens war . 


5 


ranunculiflora 


25 


Rachel Ruysi 


10 


Rawesii (speciosa) . 




Rathmoriana 


15 


Reevesiana 


15 


reine des P.-B. 


2— 6 


resplendens 


40—50 


Rivinii 


5—10 


roi des P.-B. 


2— 6 


RoUissonii vera 


8 


rosa bengalensis 


5 


rosacea 


3— 6 


rosseflora 


4 


rosa mundi . 


6—15 


rosa sinensis (Wall- 




nerii) 


3—6 


rose waratah 


6—12 


rosa de la Chine 


10—15 


*rotundifolia 




Roulinii 




Rozeanum (Palmer's 




cornation wai^) 




*rubescens . 




rubro pi. . 


2—50 


rubro major 




rubricaulis (fulgens) 


2—50 


Russell's nova 




Sabinii 


• 15 


*salicifolia . 


5 


sanguinea . 


2,50—15 



4a 8 
35 
10 

3— 6 
5 

3— 6 

4 

3— 6 



3—50 



40 



30-100 



40 



Camellia sanguinea nova 
Schrynmakersii 
sericea 
serratifolia . 
Sieboldii 
*Simsii 

*single waratah 
*spatulata . 
*speciosa simple (sta- 

minea) 
splendens . 
Spotfortiana 
spolufera . 
striata pi. . 
superba 

saperbissima grand- 

issima 
*supina 
Susanna 

Sweetiana de Gand 
Sweetiana vera de 

Colvill . 
Thomsonii . 

Traversii plenissima 10 — 25 
tricolor . 
tricolor de Young 
triumphans 
*uniflora 
Vandesiana 
Vandesiana camea 
Vandesiana superba 
various colour 
venosa 
venusta 

Pictori Antwerpensis 
Vilmoriana 
violacia superba 
^waratea rosea 
Wadieana . 
Wallichii . 
Watzoniana 
Walter Scott 
Welbanckii 
Weymarii ( pompon 

1^2 pi.) . 
Wilbrahamia 
Wiltoniae (parviflora) 
Woodsii 
*Young's red 
York et Lancastere 
Kissi 

maliflora ( sasanqua 

rosea pi.) . 
oleifera vera 
reticulata . 
sasanqua . 
sasanqua albo duplex 



10 



7 
15 

10—16 
25—40 



2,50—50 

3—12 
6 

3— 6 
3- 6 
4 



3—50 
10 

30—60 
2—30 
10—25 



The intelligent proprietor of the above extraordinary collection appears to be 
aware that many seedlings of very inferior merit have been perpetuated. " J'ai 
reforme," he says, " les 69 Camellia suivants, parce que leurs fleurs sont trop 
peu interessantes." These we have marked thus (*) in the above list. 

K 



12S 



130 



Cai 



MISCELLANEOUS PLA?;TS, THAT MAY BE CULTIVATED IN 
THE CAMEI>LIA HOUSE. 



RHODODEXDROXS. 

We have abeady stated, that the Camellia house is a very proper habita- 
tion for the Nepal Rhododendrons, and also for such hybrids of that genus 
as have been originated by art, and are too dehcate to stand in the flower 
gai'den, on account of the early season of their flowering. It is neces- 
sary^ that we should say sometMng on their cultivation and propagation. 

The Rhododendron seeds freely, and is, from that natural mode of in- 
crease, readily obtained. The Seeds should be sown as soon after they aie 
gathered as possible, in pots, previously well drained, and filled with peat 
to within an inch of the top, which latter space should be filled ^ith very- 
fine sifted peat, and the surface made quite smooth and level, upon which 
the seeds are to be sown, but not covered with mould, as they are so very 
small, that they are hable to be buiied too deep. But to prevent their 
bemg washed off in the process of watering, and also to shade them from 
the sun and au*, a thin layer of fine moss should be laid over them. The 
pots should be placed in. a cool, shaded place, where the atmosphere will 
be as uniform as possible around them, for they are very impatient of ex- 
treme drought, damp, or sudden changes. For greater secmity, they may 
be covered with bell or hand glasses. ^Mien the young plants are about 
an inch high, they should be potted into small pots ; two, three, or more 
plants in each, and placed as close to the edge of the pot as possible, and 
gradually exposed to the air, until they can stand it without protection. 
After sowing, and during summer, a very proper situation for seedling pots 
of Rhododendrons, would be under the shelter of some large spreading 
evergreen ; and during winter, upon a shelf in the CameUia house, close to 
the glass, or in a cold frame, or pit, free from damp, and from which frost 
is excluded. 

Rhododendrons are easily increased by grafting, and also by inarching 



ItrXED GREEli-ffOiJGZ. 




Rh-ododcndrou Cr 



I 



RHODODENDRONS. 



131 



in a similar way with Camellias, as already noticed. They are sometimes 
increased by layers ; but this latter mode is seldom employed, unless in 
the case of the more ordinary sorts. 

Their treatment is altogether so much like that of Camellia, that any 
separate directions upon that head here, might be deemed superfluous, 
farther than that theyreqmre a peat soil, and cannot be over- watered while 
making their young wood. This treatment agrees very nearly with that 
they experience in their native places of growth, which is towards the 
bottom of the Nepal mountains, where they are partially irrigated, in con- 
sequence of the melting of the snow on the mountains above, which takes 
place about the time they begin to shoot in spring, and lasts during the 
period they are making their young wood. The remainder of the year, 
they are comparatively dry. 

Of course, the proper stock on wMch.to graft or inarch the finer species, 
such as arloreuniy arloreum flo. alburn^ nepalense, cinnamomeum, setosurrij 
campanulatum, aromaticum, and the English hybrids, Russellianum, alta- 
elerense^ Smithii, &c., are plants of the commoner sorts, potted and trained 
on purpose. We ought here to observe, that grafted plants of the Rhodo- 
dendrons never make so good plants as those originated from seeds ; and 
if we are to give credit to the doctrine laid down by our enlightened 
countryman, T. A. Knight, Esq., and others, trees have a stated period 
of existence, and grafts, or cuttings taken from them, do not sm'\ive 
much longer than the term allowed to the original plant ; we may, 
therefore, expect to lose, ere long, some of the present fine varieties ; and 
should pay regard to the production of new ones from seed. This is a 
doctrine, however, which is denied by most of the continental writers, 
as weU as by some of our own authors. Tons it appears .a matter of 
very little consequence ; for, supposing eveiy Rhododendron which ex 
isted in this countr\^ ten or a dozen years ago was totally lost, we 
have hundreds of varieties originated from seeds T\ithin that period, 
that are infinitely superior to any of them, for every purpose of orna- 
ment, whether as decorations for the greenhouse, conservatory, or flower 
garden. Seeds of the finer Nepal sorts, are from time to time brought 
to this country, and the art of man is increasing new varieties every 
year. 



MAGNOLIAS. 

The species of tliis genus that may be advantageously cultivated in the 



132 



THE CAMELLIA HOUSE. 



Camellia house, are those that are natives of China, viz. tomentosa^ obovatOf 
fascata, anoncefoliay pumila, and the hybrid Soulangiana, 

These are all plants of easy culture, requiring just the same treatment 
as Camellias. They are increased principally by grafting and inarching 
upon stocks of M. purpuria, and sometimes by buddings, cuttings, and 
layers ; the former is by far the most expeditious and certain mode. 

NERIUM OLEANDER. 

This splendid species, with its varieties, is very readily multiphed by cut- 
tings, planted in light, rich soil, and placed in a mild bottom heat, without 
covering. They also root freely, if the ends of the cuttings be placed in a 
])ottle of water, and placed in a frame, or hot house. A Hght, rich soil, is 
most proper for the plants when rooted, and an abundance of water at all 
times : the very name, Nerium^ is derived from damp, because the plants 
grow naturally upon the banks of rivers, and in marshy places 

This is an old inhabitant of our greenhouses, having been introduced 
from the south of Europe in 1596 ; and if attention is paid to its cultiva- 
tion, which is exceedingly simple, few plants are more beautiful when in 
flower, and in that state it remains a long time. 



ILLICIUM FLORID ANUM. 

The foliage of this plant is exceedingly fragrant ; so much so, that the 
name is derived from Illicio, to attract. The Chinese use the leaves and 
flowers for seasoning some of their finest dishes, while their neighbours, 
the Japanese, decorate the temples of their deities, and the tombs of their 
friends with the branches of this plant. The most usual method of in- 
creasing this species, and also /. anisatum, is by layers, but the ripened 
wood of both roots vaIII vegetate in time, if planted in sand, or sandy peat 
and loam, and placed in a cool frame, and otherwise treated as directed 
for Camellias. 

DAPHNE ODOltA. 

This veiy od(^iferous plant is readily increased by cuttings of the young 
shoots planted in sand, or light peat and loam, in a sHght bottom heat, and 
close, moist atmosphere. Light peat and loam, of equal quantities, is the 



MISCELLANEOUS PLAXTS. 



133 



proper soil for them to grow in. To flower tliem well, the cultivator must 
be sparing of the knife, as the terminating buds of the shoots produce 
leaves, and the lateral ones flowers : a circumstance noticed by Linnaeus as 
being characteristic of this genus. 

LUCULIA GRATISSIMA. 

This very fragTant plant is readily increased by cuttings of the ripened 
wood, and also by layers, either in heat or not. The soil best adapted for 
it is sandy loam and peat. 

KENXEDYJE, VARIOUS SPECIES. 

These all seed fi-eely when old plants, and from them a plentiful supply 
of young ones can always be obtained. They also strike by cuttings 
planted in sand and covered vrith a glass, in a cool place. Peat and loam 
is the proper soil for all the genus. 

W^ISTERIA CHINEXSIS. 

This splendid flowering plant should have a place in every garden, both 
in the greenhouse, and on the open wall, where it flowers abundantly, but 
is sometimes hable to be injured by late spring frosts. It is a veiy good 
plan to adopt with this plant, to plant it against a wall near to the CameUia 
house or greenhouse, and to train it not only on both sides of the open 
wall, but also to introduce a branch of it into the Camehia house 
or greenhouse, when it will come into flower earher than on the 
wall, and be secui'e from the frost. The branches trained on the open 
wall, will flower also in succession ; those on a south aspect first, and be 
succeeded by those on the north. The plant is rapidly increased by lay- 
ing the shoots in pots plunged in the ground at the bottom of the wall. 
It sometimes produces seeds. 

CAPRIFOLIUM JAPOXICUM AND JASMINUM GRANDIFLORA, 

Are both much esteemed for the fragrance of their flowers, and also 
for their beauty. They are both readily increased by cuttings of the 
ripened wood, planted in sand, under a glass, in a cool place. They also 
luxuriate in a soil of equal parts of hght loam, peat, and ver^^ rotten 
dung. 



13 134 CAMELLIA HOUSE. 



Ca 



as 



TECOMA GRANDIFLORA. 



This splendid plant is a native of China, but is sufficiently hardy to 
flower well in the open air of this country. Plants of it have existed against 
a wall in the gardens at Claremont, and elsewhere, for the last twenty 
years. It is, nevertheless, well worthy of a place in the CameUia house, 
where it will flower earher than upon the open wall. It succeeds in a soil 
of peat and loam, and is increased by eyes planted in pots, placed in a mild 
temperature. These must of course be taken off early in spring, cut to 
about an inch and a half in length, and covered about half an inch Tvith 
til mould, in the same manner as practised for propagating vines. We beheve 
CO this method was first practised in the Claremont gardens ; but is now 
l30 pretty generally followed. Formerly, this plant was rare, and considered 
lY^ difl[icult to increase : the usual method being by cuttings of the roots, 
til and by laying. Plants originated from single eyes, frequently flower the 
gi same year, when about a foot high. 

fr PASSIFLORA LOUDONII, AND P. KERMISINA, 

ti 

Are two splendid varieties of this popular family. They are increased 
by cuttings of the young shoots planted in sand, and covered vnth a glass, 
and also by layers, and seeds, when the latter can be obtained. Any mo- 
derately rich, light soil suits them ; and, contrary to the generahty of the 
genus, will flower well in a low temperature. 



n 
fl 
tl 
f] 
c 

f 



s 

1 



GREENHOUSE SHRUBS. 




! 



135 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



" Bulbous-rooted plants associate almost as ill with other plants as 
succulents do ; and therefore, wherever a good collection is kept, there 
should be a house entirely devoted to their culture." Such is the opinion 
of the Editor of the Encyclopedia of Gardening, and in this opinion we 
cordially agree. The roof should be low and not very steep, and the 
pots should be kept on a level stage, or platform, raised table high, or 
about two foot and a half, that the flowers may be near the eye. A house 
with glass on aU sides, and a central platform six or eight feet wide, and 
two side ones, or side borders, about three feet wide, would form an excellent 
house for plants of this description, as all of them would be near the glass 
and near the eye of the spectator. Whenever the bulbs cultivated in 
such a house become in a dormant state, they should be removed to a 
pit, or frame of proper temperature in the reserve garden, and kept there 
dry till the growing season. Exotic bulbs require nearly the same degree 
of heat when lying dormant as when they are growing." 

Bulbous-rooted plants require a different mode of culture from plants 
in general, and are, both before and after flowering, unsightly in their ap- 
pearance, and consequently they contribute little to the ornament of the 
house in which they grow. While in flower, few sections of plants exhibit 
a more varied, rich, and gay appearance, and by good management and a 
proper selection of kinds, a display of flowers may be kept up during the 
greater part of the year. 

" They appear," says the Honourable and Rev. W. Herbert, " to have 
gone out of favour lately with cultivators, probably from failure through 
mismanagement, for certainly they can be sui^passed by few flowers in 
beauty ; and most of them may be cultivated in a warm geenhouse, if they 
are kept quite dry in the winter ; but it should always be remembered, 
that very tender bulbs which are to be kept dry in the greenhouse, will rot 
if above ground, from the dampness of the atmosphere, though they would 
have been uninjured if closely covered by dry earth." 

We here beg to be understood as alluding to the greenhouse and stove 
species of bulbous plants, of which the following genera foms the principal 



136 



THE BULS HOUSK. 



mass. Amaryllis, with their numerous hybrid varieties, Autholiza, Clivea^ 
Coburghia, Chlidanthus, Eucrosia, Babiana, Cyrtanthus, Eucomis, Galcuria<f 
Gladiolv^, H(2manthus, Strumaria, BiUMSviyia, Nerine, Ixia, Oocalis, Luche- 
naUa, Massonia, Mor(sa, Polyanthes, Wachendorfia, &c., as true bulbous 
plants, and to which we may with some propriety add the splendid genus 
Alstrosmerittf Gloriosa, Tropcsolum, Cyclamen, See. 

A house furnished with such genera as the above, would have a very 
interesting and imposing effect, and as there is perhaps no example of the 
kind in existence at present, should these remarks lead to such a result, 
we ai'e satisfied that the gratification of the owner, would be equal to our 
utmost anticipation. 

The more tender bulbous plants, and such as are most nearly allied ta 
them, will be treated of when we come to the cultivation of hot house 
plants. 



STRUCTURES CALCULATED FOR BULBOUS PLANTS, 

We have above remarked that a house glazed on all sides and of no 
great height, is the most proper sort of stiuctm-e for the successfid cul- 
tivation of these plants. The annexed diagram will explain our views- 




It represents a span-roofed form, eighteen feet wide, and seven feet and e 
half in height over the pathways. In the centre is a platform upon which 
the largest plants are intended to stand ; this platform should be formed 
over brick arches, and rendered capable of holding water upon its surface^ 



STRUCTURES FOR BULBOUS PLANTS. 



137 



for the double purpose of keeping the roots of the plants moist and cool 
while they are in flower, and more especialy when they are making 
their young leaves, which is the most critical period of their growth ; for 
unless these be fully developed, the chance of having fine flowers, if any, 
will be small. This table is also required to be rendered capable of 
holding water, because the bulbs, when in a dormant state, are intended 
to be deposited underneath, in the cavities at and it vvould be 
much too damp for this purpose if the spilt water only from the pots 
above it were allowed to fall. The water that may not pass off by evapo- 
ration from this platform should be emptied, by having one or two pipes 
through which it would pass to the drains under the house. 

The platform between the footpaths and sides of the house, are for the 
smaller kinds of bulbous plants, such as Ixiu^ Oxalis^ and Alstroemeria. 
Such a house as this might be completely heated by the common smoke 
flues, or hot water pipes : the situation for either to be under the side 
platforms. 

Should such a house be considered too large, or the situation not be 
favourable for one upon this principle, the accompanying diagram may be 




considered a good substitute. The breadth of this house may be ten or 
twelve feet, seven feet and a half in height over the footpath, having a water- 
tight platform, as above described, for the reception of the larger species 
of bulbs ; and a front platform, over the flue, for those of a smaller gro^^th. 
The space under the larger platform at a, is intended for the reception of 
plants when in a dormant state. 



138 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



PROPAGATION AND TREATMENT WHILE YOUNG. 

Many species of bulbous-rooted plants produce seeds, and the majority 
of them produce offsets, which are either small, or imperfectly formed 
bulbs, but which, by cultivation for a longer or shorter period, according 
to their various habits, become of sufficient size and perfection to produce 
Howers. These offsets are to be taken off when the plant is in a state of 
rest, which happens in most sorts when they have done flowering. 

Some kinds of bulbous-rooted plants do not readily increase by offsets ; 
such as are of the tunicate shape are of this order. A tunicated or coated 
bulb, (hulhus tunicatusj, consists of a number of tunics, or coats, which 
are regularly laid over each other ; the common onion furnishes an example 
of this bulb. Such bulbs, if cut over transversely a little above the 
middle, will form young bulbs in abundance near the margin of the outer 
coat. As there is some danger of a bulb so treated rotting off before the 
young bulbs have time to form, particularly if kept in a damp situation, we 
would suggest the application of finely powdered charcoal, or caustic 
lime dust being applied daily, to dry up the sap which will flow from 
the wound, and which, if not stopped, or dried up, will cause decay to 
take place. 

Many bulbous-rooted plants produce seeds in abundance, both naturally 
and artificially. By the latter mode, the late Mr. Sweet, the Hon. 
and Rev. William Herbert, and others, have originated many splendid 
hybrid varieties, particularly of that splendid genus Amarylhs. Seeds 
being obtained, proceed to sow them as soon as they are ripe, if that does 
not take place after July ; but if later, they had better be kept till the 
beginning of next March, for if they were brought into a state of vegetation 
towards autumn, there would be a great risk of losing them during the 
winter ; whereas, if sovm early in spring, they have the whole summer to 
grow in, and will have attained a state, before the following winter, to 
secure themselves from harm. It is of little use to sow seeds of any free 
vegetating plant during winter, for they do not in general germinate, but 
remain inactive, in a state,, perhaps, very similar to the torpid condition of 
many animals ; but on the coming of spring, the ^' penetrative sun" rouses 
the embryo from its slumber into animated life. 

Light, rich, sandy loam, with a part of well decomposed leaf-mould, is 
the best soil in which to sow seeds of all bulbous-rooted plants. The pots 
should be well drained, but at the same time, too much of their space 
should not be taken up with the drainage, because the roots of bulbs 



propagatiox froim seeds, 



139 



peneti-ate to a considerable deptli ; and, hence, would be impeded in their 
progress, if sufficient depth of mould was not allowed for them. 

When the seeds are sown, they should be moderately watered ; for 
water is the principal agent in promoting germination, and without it, 
seeds would remain for ever in a dormant state. If the seeds of Ama- 
ryllis, which are not very small, be covered with finely sifted mould, 
similar to that on which they are sown, to the depth of one eighth of an 
inch, and lai'ger or smaller seeds in a relative proportion, they will vege- 
tate freely. Seeds, if too deeply covered, will not vegetate at all, because 
they are placed beyond the influence of air, and different seeds seem to re- 
quire very different quantities of air, in order to fmther their germination. 
In order that seeds may germinate readily, it is not only necessaiy to expose 
them to the influence of the air, but that the air should be pure, or at 
least as pure as that of the atmosphere. The experiments of M. Achard 
and other philosophers, have proved that seeds will not germinate in 
azotic gas, CcLrbonic acid gas, nor hydrogen gas. Bierkander, a Swedish 
author, has instituted some curious experiments relative to the germina- 
tion of seeds of various kinds, at different depths under ground. He 
found that the seeds of flax would never vegetate if buried below a certain 
depth in the earth. And the seeds of black oats, after having lain deeply 
buried in the ground in a soil in Scotland for half a century, grew 
vigorously when the gi'ound was trenched up and the seeds brought 
nearer to the surface. 

The pots in which the seeds of bulbous-rooted plants are sown, should 
be placed in a cool pit or frame, tiU they have vegetated, afterwards 
they wiU only require to be regulai'ly watered, kept free from weeds, 
and fully exposed to the sun and air, the great object being to enable 
them to form as large and perfect leaves as possible, and to prolong the 
season of their growth to as late a period of the autumn as possible. 
WTien the foHage begins to turn yellowish, water should be gradually 
withheld, and as the foliage dies off it should be discontinued entirely. 
During winter, the young bulbs should be kept diy iii the pots till spring, 
when they are to be taken out, re-potted, and excited into vegetation the 
following season. The best place in which to keep such pots during winter, 
is in the cavity formed under the platform, as represented in our diagrams ; 
and, when such is not provided for them, placing them on a dry shelf, 
where no water can reach them, during their season of rest, will be 
nearly as well. They may also be placed under the stage of any ordinary 
greenhouse or pit, where frost or damp cannot injure them, laid over on 



140 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



their sides, wliich will take up less room, and more effectually guard 
them from damp, than if they were placed in the usual position. 

The young bulbs from seed should be planted in February or March, 
the second year, and placed in a pit or frame, supphed ^ith water, air, and 
light, in full abundance ; the soil should be Hght, but of the richest 
description possible, viz., completely decomposed dung, a small poition of 
light yellow loam, and about an equal portion of pure gritty sand. Every 
attention should be paid to enable them to develope their foliage of a large 
and fuU size, for on this depends the size of the bulbs. Some few bulbs 
will flower the third year after this routine, but by far the greater part 
will not flower till the fourth, fifth, and sixth year from seed. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF BULBOUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 

The management of exotic bulbous-rooted plants is much less generally 
known to gardeners, than the management of any other section of plants 
whatever, if we except that of Orchideae. The whole art of cultivating 
bulbs well, depends on the attention paid to two particular points, viz., 
the season when they are put into, and the length of time that they 
remain in a state of rest, and the perfection to which their foliage is 
brought during the season of growth. The most rational period for 
putting all bulbous plants into a state of rest, is soon after they have 
flowered, and while their leaves are beginning to decay. It is extremely 
injurious to take up any bulb, or even to destroy a single leaf, while it 
is in a growing state, for it should be remembered that it is the leaves 
which bring the roots to maturity, and prepare it for*flowering the fol- 
lowing year. The loss of a single leaf may be the cause of a bulb not 
flowering for a year or two afterwards. 

The length of time that bulbs should be kept out of the ground, or 
kept in a state of rest, depends on their habits as to flowering. Some 
kinds require one month, while others of the same genus may be kept for 
three months in a state of rest without injmy. This is one of the many 
points in gardening that practice and observation alone can teach. It 
may be laid down, however, as a rule, from which there are very few 
exceptions, that no bulb should be kept out of a state of growth after it 
has once shovm symptoms of vegetation, nor should that vegetation be 
impeded, in the shghte^t degree, from the period of its first commencement, 
till the foUage is perfectly matured and beginning to decay. 

Bulbous-rooted plants require to be frequently taken up, to remove such 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



141 



young biilbs as form roimd their sides, which, if not displaced, would rob 
the principal bulb of its due share of nourishment, and consequently, 
deprive it of the power of producing its flowers ; some species of this 
tribe also form their young bulbs under the old ones, so that in coiu*se of 
time they would get so deep, if planted out, as at first to send up weak 
stems, and ultimately to cease to appear ; and, if in pots, worJd get so low 
in them, that they would not have room for their roots to extend in search 
of noiuishment. 

Besides this regulation of the roots, in regard to number, there is also 
another important reason for either taking bulbs out of the mould once 
a-year, or for placing them in a state of rest, and that is, their being 
thereby rendered more excitable when again planted, which evidently 
is the case with bulbs that have been kept for a reasonable time in a 
dormant state. 

The late botanist Sweet, who studied the culture of Amaryllis and other 
similar bulbs in the once celebrated collection of the late Mr. Colville, 
found the advantage of turning out the bulbs from the pots when the 
leaves had ripened ; and when divested entirely fi'om the mould, he laid 
them upon shelves, in a dry, moderately warm situation, leavhig them 
untn they began to show flowers, when they were taken out and potted. 
This practice, in our opinion, has some considerable advantages, for, that 
during their season of repose they occupy little space, are kept perfectly 
inactive, and are secure against the attacks of vermin. But this mode of 
treatment ^Ir Sweet did not consider appHcable to all the genus, for he 
remarks, that " Amaryllis, reticulata, and striatifolia, or the mules raised 
from them, wiU flower much better by remaining in pots aU the year, as 
do also A, aiiUca, calyptrata, Solandr(jeflora /" but these of coiu'se must 
be kept dr}', so as to remain quite dormant, otherwise they will not 
flower with certainty. " A. reginxB, crocata, ru.tila, acciuninata, fulgida, 
Johnsmii, psittacina , and the mules between them, are much better turned 
out.'^ 

"SMien the production of fine flowers is more an object of deske on the 
part of the cultivator than the multiphcation of plants, we woidd say, 
destroy aU young plants as they appear above ground roimd the old bulb ; 
and this may be done with great ease and safety by displacing a portion 
of the mould round the bulb, and rubbing off the offsets, either vdih 
the finger or a piece of blunt stick. By this practice, a great accession of 
strength is given to the main plant, both for the display of blossom 
during the current year, and also for invigorating the leaves to prepare 
and deposit nutriment in the bulb for the succeeding year. And, m con- 



142 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



formity Tvith the same rule, every flower should be cut off as soon as it 
begins to decay, but not sooner, as an immense expenditure of sap would 
take place by cutting the flower stalk while in full vigour. The flower 
stalk should remain until the leaves have finally decayed and are falling 
off. 

AMien bulbs are excited in spring, the progress of vegetation should 
be allowed to proceed slowly and gradually, increasing the stimulus as the 
plant proceeds and the days lengthen, for bulbs excited rapidly seldom 
flower well, if at all, and often make such small and imperfect foliage as 
unfits them for preparing and depositing nutriment to the bulb for the suc- 
ceeding season. Although almost all bulbs force well if properly treated, 
few of them will flower well if excited rapidly. 

During the growing season, they require all the hght and sunshine pos- 
sible, ^vith a liberal supply of air and water, the latter in greater abun- 
dance than most other plants not actually aquatics. Bulbs also differ 
from most other greenhouse plants, in another particular, namely, that 
they do not reqmre to be set out in the open air during summer. In- 
deed, all the advantages of the chmate of a greenhouse or pit, is no more 
than they require to perfect their fohage and ripen their bulbs to 
perfection. 



SOIL. 

.^e^bave ah-eady remarked that most bulbous-rooted plants require a 
rich, light soil. That prepared by adding to one half rich, hght, turfy 
loam, another half completely decomposed stable yard dung, with a 
portion of quick sand, vrill be an excellent compost for flowering strong 
bulbs. A hghter and equally rich compost should be used for more tender 
and dehcate bulbs ; and for the most common of all, any moderately 
good garden soil, not peaty, will be quite sufficient. Some genera require 
a slight difference in regard to soil, of which notice will be taken under 
their respective heads. 



SHIFTING AND POTTING. 

A general examination of bulbous plants should take place about the 
begmning of March, ever^^ spring, but individuals will require to be potted 
if they have been kept out of pots during their period of rest, as well as 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



143 



others that may hare been kept in pots during that period, when- 
ever they show symptoms of vegetation, whether in spring, autnmn, 
or mid-winter. The pots best suited for bulbs should be rather deeper 
than those in common use, because the roots of all bulbs penetrate 
to a considerable depth perpendicularly, and being both tender and 
brittle, if once broken or impeded in their progress, cease to grow ; 
consequently, the plant, by being deprived of its due shai'e of nomish- 
ment, will receive a check which will be very injurious to it, and, if 
many of the roots are so circumstanced, the fohage wiU begin to decay 
before it has performed its proper function. In preparing the bulbs for 
potting, all the fragments of the old roots, if any remain, should be re- 
moved, and also any loose skin that will part from the bulb freely, should 
be rubbed ofi". 

The pots should be very well drained, as, during their growth, a con- 
siderable quantity of water will be given them, which, if allowed to re- 
main stagnant in the mould, would be of serious consequence to the 
plants. Deep planting is to be avoided ; therefore, placing the bulb only 
so far into the mould as to keep it in a steady perpendicular position, will 
be all that is requisite. 



AMARYLLIS. 

Some few of this extensive genus require the temperature of the stove, 
of which notice will be taken in the proper place. The majority, how- 
ever, of the species, and almost all the hybrids, will flower to admiration 
in the bulb house, and many of them even in the most ordinary green- 
house ; while A. BelloAona, pumita, pudica, vittata, and several others, 
wiU flower weU in a warm border, protected during winter T\ith a covering 
of moss, fern, or dry litter. 

The foRowing excellent directions on the cultivation of this familv, 
and those most nearly related to them, have been laid down bv the 
late Mr. Sweet, who had more experience in their culture than any 
man of his day. " The bulbs .having been grown in frames and pits all 
the summer, were removed to the hot house in autumn, when they had 
ceased growing. They were then laid on shelves in the house, and as the 
leaves and roots began to decay, they were cleared away, that they mizht 
not injure the bulbs. As soon as the bulbs became dn* and hard, some 
of them began to show flower, and others continued to do so all the 
^vinter and sprmg, seldom being less than a hundred, sometimes two or 



144 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



tliree hundred in flower together, when scarcely any other plant was in 
bloom. As soon as they show for bloom, they should be potted, and the 
sooner the better, as they draw up weak, and do not flower so well, if 
allowed to remain too long after showing bloom. As soon as potted, 
they must be placed in the hot house, [bulb house] giving them but little 
water at first, but as the pots get filled with roots, they will require a 
greater supply. The sorts that succeed best by turning out are A. regiius, 
crocata, accuminafa, rictilu, fulyiday psittacinaj and rittataj and all the 
hybrids that have been produced from them. A. mdica, calyptratOy 
Solandrceflora, and reticuhta, do not like turning out so well, as it is their 
nature to continue gi'owing all the year through, and the hybrid pro- 
ductions from those partake of the nature of their parents. They only 
require to be kept dry a considerable time in their pots, to make them 
flower, except any get sickly, or the mould gets soddened at their roots ; 
they should then be laid by to dn- for a considerable time, or they 
will be apt to rot." 

In regard to soil, Sweet remarks that, A. reticulata and striatifolia, 
succeed best in Ught, turfy loam, rather more than one third of white 
sand, and the rest tm-fy peat ; the use of the tuify soil is to keep it from 
binding or getting hard in the pots, wliich it vrill do if sifted fine : 
the fibres in the turfy soil also keep it open, that the roots may pass 
readily through it." 

A. formossissima requires a rich soil, and may be advantageously 
cultivated if placed out in spring, and taken up and dried when the lohage 
is ripe. This species is perfectly hardy, and has flowered annually in a 
vrarm border in the Claremont gardens in spring, and occasionally 
again in autumn. In the greenhouse it requires a low temperature, and 
also a season of perfect rest. This is a very common species, but it 
does not, to our knowledge, ever produce seeds in this country, not- 
withstanding the foUeu is both abundant and perfect, a circumstance 
also noticed by Mr. Herbert, who concludes that its semenation depends 
upon some very nice adaptation of temperature and moistnre. 

In an extensive genus like Amaryllis — we speak of it here as originaUj 
constituted, without reference to its latter sub-divisions — there must of 
necessity be some difference in the cultivation, in consequence of the 
several latitudes, altitudes, and situations in which they are found. 
A. caluptratum has been found to fioiuish in a light soil, placed on the 
hot house flue, and kept growing all the year, but when transfen'ed from 
that situation into the gi'een house, it languished and died. Psittacinum, 
and the hybrids between it and viftatum, are liai'dy greenhouse plants, 



CLIVEA AND COBURGHIA. 145 

requiring rest duiing the winter ; in the stove they become weak, and 
finally cease to flower, SolandrcEflQra and Stylosa are tender stove 
plants, requiring rest during the winter ; Vittata is extremely hardy- 
floweiing in the open borders, and also requiring rest in winter ; Reticu- 
lata and Striatifolia ai^ tender stove species, requiiing rest dming win- 
ter ; Equestfis is a native of the hottest parts of the globe, but will not 
long exist if kept in active excitement in the stove, however high the tem- 
perature may be ; during its period of rest, it should be kept in a mode- 
rately cool place, and is even found to perfect its fohage if placed out of 
doors during summer. 

In regard to the culture of that splendid plant A. JosepMnce, now Bruns- 
vigia JosejjlwKE, 'Mr. Herbert has the following remarks : "As they sprout 
but once a-year, nothing can be done to accelerate theh growth, beyond 
keeping them in a healthy, vigorous state ; for which pmi^ose, the bidb 
must be kept under ground, with the neck, perhaps, above ground but of 
that he entertains great doubts. " If the whole bulb is exposed, it imbibes 
moistui'e from the atmosphere in the season of rest, which becomes fatal 
to it ; and I have found seedlings, of which the neck has never been raised 
above ground, in the safest state. A rich, hght loam, and abundance of 
water in winter, with perfect rest and diy heat in summer, are necessary." 



CLIVEA, 

Although not properly a bulbous-rooted plant, is so nearly related to 
them in habits and cultm-e, that we are induced to place it amongst them in 
the bulb house. This plant, of wliich there is as yet only one species, is 
usuaUy kept in the hot-house ; but it is so hardy, that it may be kept per- 
fectly safe duiing whiter in a cold pit, or fi'ame. It is increased by separat- 
ing the roots, and also by seeds, which it produces freely. Although it 
does not shed its leaves, it still requires a season of rest, which commences 
soon after it has done flowering and while its seeds are ripening. It should 
then be but moderately supphed ^vith water, and when potted, kept high in 
the pot. 



C0T5URGHIA. 

This genus, like the last, is also often injured by being kept in a stove 
temperature ; and hence, probably, is the cause of its beiug considered a 

L 



146 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



sliy flowerer. The Bulb house, or even common greenhouse, is a much 
better temperature for it, and even in a cold pit protected from frosts 
during winter, they have flowered in full perfection. During the season of 
rest, this genus, of which there are as yet only two species, are better taken 
out of the pots and kept in paper bags until the season of planting arrives. 
Contrary to the generality of bulbous-rooted plants, this genus succeeds 
better in a strong, rich soil, than in one so light as suits the majority of 
other bulbs. They increase readily by offsets, and will flower in a warm 
border in the open air, 

GLORIOSA SUPERBA, 

This superb plant is not so frequently seen in flower in our plant houses 
as we could wish to see it, and this is entirely omng to the circumstance 
of cultivators paying too little attention to the principles of vegetable Ufe. 
Every plant has two distinct states of existence, one of quietude and re- 
pose, and another of development and display. This is clearly illustrated 
amongst tropical plants, but in none more so than in the various genera of 
bulbous-rooted plants. An erroneous opinion has long very generally been 
entertained, and we regret to say, that with many the opinion is still 
entertained, that plants, natives of the tropics, require an undiminished 
temperature and humidity throughout the year, and the more plants shew 
the efl'ects of their natural habits, the more do many cultivators endeavour 
to counteract them, by stimulating them to the utmost possible degree, 
thus endeavouring to keep them in a state of perpetual excitement, instead 
of allowing nature to take its due course, and give them their natural sea- 
son of repose. For the method of culture of Gloriosa superha — See Article 
on Culture of certain fine-flowering stove plants that require a mode of 
treatment different from the generality of tropical plants, which wiW be 
given under the section Stoves. 

CHLIDANTHUS. 

This genus, of which as yet there is but one species, succeeds best in a 
soil composed of sandy loam and peat ; but not enriched by the addition 
of any kind of manure. When the leaves have ripened, and are falling off"; 
the bulbs should then be placed in a dry, warm situation, where they may 
either remain in the pots, or be shaken out and kept in paper bags till 
they show signs of vegetation, when they should be again planted. Like 



CYRTANTHUS. 



147 



the Guernsey lily and other AmarylUsis, they flower before the leaves ap- 
pear ; therefore, instead of having water withheld from them as the flower 
fades, they should have it in abundance, as at that period the fohage begins 
to appear ; and, as we have already observed of bulbs in general, every 
means should be used to encourage the full development of the leaves, for 
upon that depends, in a great measure, the perfection of the flowering of 
the plants the succeeding season. 



EUCROSIA. 

A light, turfy soil is best for this genus, into which the bulbs should not 
be deep set, and through its culture much less water is required than for 
most other plants of this tribe. 



ANTHOLYZA. 

This genus of Cape bulbs requires a light, rich soil. The bulbs should 
be annually taken up to separate the smaller ones from the larger, as the 
latter only will flower well. They might be kept in bags during their 
season of rest, and when planted, placed for a time in a cold pit, so as to 
be slowly excited into vegetation. 



BABIANA. 

The same treatment recommended for the last, will equally suit this 
genus. Both of them, including also the genus Ixia^ Gladiolus, Lapey- 
rousitty Sparaocis, and some other Cape sorts, will succeed when planted 
out in a turf pit, or even in a moderately dry, warm border in the 
open air. 



CYRTANTHUS. 

This genus is often, hke some others of which notice mil be taken, very 
much injured by being always kept in a stove heat, and also by ever\- means 
being taken to keep them in a constant state of excitement, when the 
very reverse ought to be the case. Instead of the great heat in which this 



148 



THE BrLB HOUSE. 



genus is in general kept, it has been found to flower much better when 
planted in the open borders of an ordinary garden. A soil composed of 
light, sandy loam, peat, and leaf-mould, has been found to answer every 
expectation. During their season of rest, the roots must be kept dry in 
the pots, but not taken out of them. "\Mien they are just beginning to 
grow, shake them out of the old ball of mould, and re-pot them, when 
they will be found to flower in great perfection. "WTiile growing, and par- 
ticularly while in flower, they should have plenty of water. They are 
increased both by oflfsets and seeds, which, in well-grown plants, ai'e pro- 
duced in abundance. 

Of the culture of this genus, ^Ir. Herbert says, that it is altogether 
difficult, the bulbs being more disposed to dwindle and rot, than to in- 
crease in bulk. A common greenhouse, he says, is too damp for it in win- 
ter, and the au- of a stove too confined. On Mr. Herbert's authority, we 
are informed, that Mr. Griffin cultivated C. ohliquiis very successfully by 
keeping the bulbs on a shelf very near the glass in his stove, where the heat 
was never great. " Ahght soil," says Mr. Herbert, ''which is not retentive 
of water, mil be fomid to suit the whole genus ; and [he thinks] that the 
use of peat vrill always be dangerous to them. Those with persistent 
leaves should be cautiously watered in winter, the deciduous species not at 
all. C. carneus is one of the most difficult to manage : I lost it twice," 
says Mr, Herbert, ''notwithstanding the greatest care, and have at last 
succeeded in establishing one with better hopes, by giving it water very 
seldom the first year, and rather more after it had formed a strong leaf, 
keeping it as much as possible in a di'aft of ah' in the greenhouse. It is 
planted in a mixture of white sand, with a httle hght loam, Tsith an open 
drain under. With respect to the other species, there is some peculiarity 
in the soil congenial to them, which is veiy difficult to analyze." 

In the soil of ]\Iitcham common, wMch is a hght brown earth, with a 
little admixtm-e of dead fmze leaves, on a gravelly substratmn, they grew 
admn-ably, while the soils to which lie had afterwards access in York- 
shire, were altogether unsuitable to them. He concludes that Hght soils 
are less favourable to this family than those that are more disposed to set 
firm, and not fall to pieces when tm-ned out of the pot, and that good 
drainage and cautious watering should be strictly attended to. 

EUCOMIS. 

This is a veiy hardy genus of ]}ulbs, although not unfrequently found 
placed in the stove. It stands the most severe winters vnx have had of 



IXIA AXD GLADIOLrS. 



149 



iate years, with impunity, vrhen planted in a warm and dry border. It is 
increased by offsets, which are produced in abundance. We believe it 
rarely seeds. 

GALAXIA, LAPEYROUSIA, AND BRODI^A, 

All succeed in a Hght, tm'fy, rather rich soil. They should be planted 
in large pots, and not more than two or three bulbs, at the most, placed in 
each. They require water regularly while in a growing state, but com- 
paratively little compared to the foregoing genera. They should be placed 
near the glass, and in a situation where the fullest ventilation can be ad- 
mitted to them. Indeed, they succeed better in a warm border, or turf-pit, 
than they do under the ordinary mode of management, by which they are 
one day deluged in water, and for several others are kept quite dry. Such 
extremes are bad for any plants : but for the more slender and weak-grow- 
ing bulbs it is certain destruction, for the foliage is prevented from attain- 
ing its full perfection, and without that be fully developed, no flowers 
need be looked for, and in the course of a year or two the bulbs will 
cease to exist. 



IXIA AND GLADIOLUS. 

These two charming genera of Cape bulbs deserve to be much more 
generally cultivated than they are at present. They breed freely by offset 
bulbs, are very hardy, and even succeed when planted in a warm border in 
the open air. Some species produce seeds, from which plants may be 
obtained ; but unless the process of artificial fecundation has taken place, 
and the expectation of hybrid varieties be the object in view, we should 
say that it was not worth the trouble of originating fi'om seeds, plants that 
propagate so freely by the root. Seedhng plants would require the culti- 
vation of three or four years to bring them to a flowering state, while 
young offset bulbs will flower, in many cases, the year following. In 
planting both these genera, if planted in pots for house culture, they 
should be set very shallow in the mould. When the season of flowering is 
past, and the bulbs ripe, they should be taken out of the pots and kept dry- 
in paper bags, or drawers, until the season of planting again retiu-ns. The 
bulbs at this time should also be arranged ; the larger and fidl-grown ones 
set apart for flowering, and the smaller ones kept to be planted in store 
pots, or in nursery beds, until they attain their full size. 



150 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



OXALIS. 

This very interesting genus is equally hardy with the last, and will succeed 
as well in the greenhouse, plant pit, or out of doors in a favourable situa- 
tion. They are rapidly increased by offset bulbs ; and for this reason 
should be taken out of the mould every season when the foUage has died 
down, for the purpose of being separated ; for if the smaller roots be jiot 
removed from the full-grovm ones, the latter will not flower freely. 

This genus flowers, when kept in the house, at an early period of the 
year, and is therefore a very fitting inhabitant of the bulb house, where 
they should occupy, with Ixia and other low-growing kinds, the front plat- 
forms, so that they may be near the light, exposed to the sun, and at the 
same time near the eye of the observer. They dehght in a light, rich soil. 

LACHENALIA. 

This genus is very often, although improperly, placed in a stove tempe- 
rature. It succeeds better in a more moderate heat, and indeed ^^411 
flower well in a close pit or warm frame. It increases by offset bulbs 
freely, delights in a Hght, rich soil, and should remain all the year in the 
pots ; but these should be kept perfectly dry during the dormant season, 
that is, from the time the leaves begin to fade, until they begin to appear 
again in spring. 

MASSONIA. 

This is rather a delicate Cape genus. They should be planted in small 
pots, in light, turfy soil, not over rich, and placed upon a dry, airy 
shelf, near to the glass. They do not, at any period of their growth, re- 
quire much water; but during their dormant period should be kept 
quite dry. 

MOR^A. 

This is a genus not much cultivated : however, it deserves the attention 
of the flower gardener as a greenhouse plant. Its culture is similar to the 
last, only it is by no means so tender, nor so impatient of water. 



THE TUBEROSE AND CYCLAMEN. 



151 



POLYANTHUS. 

This is the well-known and fragrant tuberose ; a plant, it appears, cul- 
tivated since 1629. It is seldom that its culture succeeds with us so as to 
exist for many years ; but the loss is the less, as we have an annual supply 
of roots imported from the south of Europe, and the warmer parts of 
North America, where the climate is better suited to it than the artificial 
one of our gardens. 

The tuberose was cultivated very successfully for many years in the 
open air of this country, among others, by the late Mr. Sahsbury, who 
has detailed his practice in a very excellent communication to the Hort 
Soc, and published in their Transactions, Vol. I. p. 53 ; the rationale of 
which is (and that is equally appUcable to its culture under glass,) to ob» 
tain a sufficient degree of heat during summer, to bring their leaves out 
to the full magnitude, that of the roots following of course.'^ He also 
recommends that the roots be kept growing as "sdgourously as possible 
from May to October, but in a state of complete rest and drought for the 
remainder of the year. 

The usual mode of flowering this plant is, after procming strong bulbs, 
to pot them in March or April, in rich, turfy loam, and to place them in 
a pit, or frame, in a strong humid heat, where they are kept, till they 
how the flower stems, after which they are placed in the hot house to 
perfect their flowers. But another, and much better mode, is to excite 
them in a moderate temperature in a pit, or frame, and when their flower 
stems appear, to remove them to a cool greenhouse, or bulb house, when 
they will flower in perfection, and, from being in a low temperature, will 
last much longer in bloom than if placed in a plant stove. The tuberose 
is one of the few plants that will accommodate itself to a long absence 
from fresh air, and an excess of light ; and hence, we find it last in 
flower, giving out its delightful perfume for a long period when kept in 
close rooms, halls, and similar situations. 

' CYCLAMEN. 

The roots or bulbs should be placed ow, not m, the mould; for all 
the species of this genus, C. coum excepted, which prefers a peaty soil, the 
mould should consist of equal parts of sandy loam, leaf-mould, and very 
rotten cow-dung ; the pots should be well drained, and not much larger 
than about twice the diameter of the bulb. They should be placed in a 



152 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



light airy part of the bulb house, or cold pit, -vrhere they are merely pro- 
tected from frost ; for were they kept in a dark, cool, damp place, they 
would never flower, and the more valuable, such as C, repandum, would 
soon perish. About the month of June, the leaves die down ; the bulbs 
should then be placed in a close, dry pit, and kept without water till 
August, at which period they should be shaken out of the pots and re- 
potted into fresh mould. 

On the cultmie of Cyclamen persicum, Mr. John ^Yilmot offers the 
follovring remarks : — " As this plant blossoms early, I would advise assist- 
ing it with a little heat. Select a few pots, and place them in the stove 
in the beginning of February : they will soon show their blossom : remove 
them by degrees to their old quarter, the greenhouse, and select only 
those plants that are scented, some being much more so than others, [a 
fact, we beheve, not generally known ;] they will soon form their seed 
vessels, if assisted with plenty of air, and when you find the seed sufficiently 
ripe, sow it immediately in pans. The plants will appear in the autumn : 
let them remain in the greenhouse till the beginning of ]May ; and, in 
removing the plants from the pans, you will find they have formed 
bulbs about the size of a pea, and some as large as a hazel nut. Prepare 
a bed for their reception, by digging and raking the soil to a fine mouldy 
and cover the same over with about two inches of sifted loam, leaf-mould, 
or rotten dung, with a mixture of sandy peat. Plant the bulbs about six 
mches apart from each other, and let them be kept covered, either with 
hand glasses, or vrith hot-bed sashes, to protect them from the cold, 
and probable fi'osty nights, and in the day time admit what air is required, 
according to the state of the weather. About the middle of summer^ 
when you apprehend no danger from frosty nights, the glasses may be 
taken away, as the plants will require no farther care than sufficiently 
watering them, if the season proves a dry one, as often as occasion 
may require. 

" At the time you remove the greenhouse plants into the house, let 
the Cyclamen be taken carefully up and potted, one bulb in a small pot. 
Fit the pot to the size of the plant, and be careful not to place a small 
plant in a large pot. The pot No. 60, for small ones, and No. 48, for the 
larger, will be sufficient ; and if a fine growing summer succeeds, some of 
the bulbs will be two inches in diameter, and produce as much blossom 
as a plant two years old by the drying system. By this mode of cultiva- 
tion, a stock of that beautiful plant can easily be raised, and as time can 
be saved in the cultivation, without any additional expense or trouble, I 
trust I shall, in a short time, see it grawing generally with that luxuriance 



VALLOTA, XERIXE. 



153 



Tvliicli I have often observed vriih pleasure in my garden, where I haye 
frequently counted from fifty to eighty fine, strong, expanded blossoms, 
from a bulb two years old, growing in a forty-eight sized pot.'' — Gard. 
Marf., Vol. L. p. 387. 

WACHEN-DORFIA. 

This genus is nearly hardy enough to withstand our ordinary winters 
in the open borders. It is readily propagated by offsets, and succeeds in 
any ordinary srood soil. 'Ulien cultivated in pots, they should be large, 
for the roots are niunerous, and occupy a considerable space. 



GRIFFIXIA, 

This splendid genus has been hitherto considered both rare and difficulf 
to flower. ^Ye suspect that the real cause is, that it is treated like many 
other bulbs, which, because they do not flower annually, and under all 
circumstances of ordinary culture, are neglected and set by on shelves and 
out-of-the-way places, where they have no opportunity of developing 
their foliage, without which, as we have already repeatedly observed, no 
bulb can or will flower, nor will many of them long exist. In a soil com- 
posed of light, rich, turfy loam, the pots well drained, the bulbs not set 
too deep ia the mould, and then placed in a situation where it can enjoy 
abundance of hght, air, and simshiiie, and at the same time regularly 
watered, but not to excess, the fohage of Griffinia will attain its fiill 
magnitade, and this once being the case, flowers will follow, as a matter 
of com'se. 



TALLOT.^. ZEPHTRAXTHUS, AXD XERIXE, 

Hare been separated by botanists from the original genus Amaryllis ; 
the same mode of treatment is applicable to the majority of them. The 
culture of the Guernsey hly, Xerine saniiensis, in some respects diflers from 
these. It is well known that they are successfully cultivated in the open 
air in the island from whence their name is derived, but how they found 
their way thither, from Japan, of which they are natives, is not so easily 
determined ; be that as it may, we receive an abundant supply of their 



154 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



bulbs annually from that island, and they arrive in general during the 
months of July and August, with the flower stems more or less advanced. 
"When they are received, they should be immediately potted in tliirty-tvvo 
sized pots, in light, rich, tm-fy soil, and placed in a frame pit, or in front 
of a greenhouse, or the front platform of the bulb house, that they may 
enjoy plenty of light, air, and sunshine, which will improve the colour of 
the flt)wers greatly. If they be placed remote from the light, the flowers 
will be of a very pale colour ; but if brought more forward, they vdH 
attain their beautiful and deep pink colour, for wliich they are so deservedly 
admh'ed. Water should be given moderately and regularly, and by such 
treatment they will continue in ])loom till October or later. It is seldom 
that cultivators take the trouble to keep these bulbs beyond the period of 
flowering : some, however, have done so, and have produced flowers for 
several successive years. The following routine is recommended by a 
con-espondent in the Horticultural Register, Vol. I., p. 695. 

" After the flowers have decayed, the green leaves will begin to shoot ; 
and as on the perfection of the growth of these the future flowering of 
every bulb depends, it will be necessary to render them every possible 
assistance, and not, as is generally the case, thrust them under the stage 
in the greenhouse, stove, or any other place where they will be out of 
sight. The best method I know, is to make a hot-bed, and after having 
set on a frame, lay over the dung about a foot thick of the same compost 
they were potted in, then turn out each pot of bulbs with the ball perfect, 
for if these are broken, their growth will be much retarded. Shelter them 
fi'om the severity of winter, and give them water and air as they require 
it, until the bulbs are ripe, then keep the soil perfectly dry. By this 
treatment, many wiLL bloom the second year with great vigour. As soon 
as the flower stems begin to show, take them up with a trowel so as not 
to injure the small fibres that are starting, and pot them, being careful 
to remove none but those shovring flowers. If they were allowed to 
stand on the bed for P^'o years, and could be kept warm through the 
second vrinter, they Tvould bloom finer than those that are imported." 

The obsei*Yarions of Thomas Andrews Knight, Esq. on this subject, are 
so replete with sound sense and excellent practical directions, that we 
are disposed to give them at length, particularly as they do not entirely 
refer to the Guernsey lily in pai'ticular, but to the majority of bulbous- 
rooted plants flowering in the same manner and at the same season. 

" Bulbous roots increase in size, and proceed in acquiring powers to 
produce blossoms, only during the periods in which they have leaves, and 
in which such leaves are exposed to light ; and these organs always operate 



GUERNSEY LILY. 



155 



most efficiently when they are young, and have just attained their full 
growth. The bulb of tne Guernsey hly, as is usually cultiyated in this 
country, rarely produces leaves tiU September, or the beginning of October, 
at which period the quantity of hght afforded by our chmate is probably 
quite insufficient for a plant, which is said to be a native of the warm and 
bright chmate of Japan ; and before the return of spring, its leaves are 
necessarily full grown, and nearly out of office, even when they have been 
safely protected from frost during the winter. Is it, therefore, not extra- 
ordinary, that a bulb of this species, which has once expended itself in 
producing flowers, should but very slowly recover the power of blossoming 
again ? Considering, therefore, the deficiency of light and heat, owing to 
the late period of its vegetation, as the chief cause why this plant so 
often fails to produce flowers, I inferred, that nothing more would be re- 
qmred to make it blossom as freely, at least, as it does in Guernsey, than 
such a shght degree of artificial heat apphed early in summer, as would 
prove sufficient to make the bulbs vegetate a few weeks earlier than usual 
in the autumn. Early in the summer of 1816, a bulb which had blossomed 
in the preceding autumn was subjected to such a degree of artificial heat, 
as occasioned it to vegetate six weeks, or more, eai'her than it would other- 
wise have done. It did not, of course, produce any flowers ; but in the 
following season it blossomed early and strongly, and afforded two offsets ; 
these were put into pots in the spring of 1818, containing about one-eighth 
of a square foot of hght, rich mould, and were fed with manm-ed water, 
and the period of their vegetation was again accelerated ])y artificial heat. 
Their leaves, consequently, grew yeUow from maturity early in the present 
spring, when the pots were placed in a rather shaded situation near a north 
wall, to afford me an opportunity of observing to what extent, in such a 
situation, the early production of the leaves, in the preceding season, had 
changed the habit of the plant. I entertained no doubt but that both the 
bulbs woidd produce blossoms, but I was much gratified by the appearance 
of the blossoms in the first week in July. From the success of the pre- 
ceding experiment, I conclude, that if the offsets, and probably the bulbs 
of this plant which had produced flowers, be placed in a moderate hot- 
bed in the end of May, to occasion the early production of their leaves, 
blossoms would be constantly afforded in the following season ; but it vriW 
be expedient to habituate the leaves thus produced gradually to the open 
air, as soon as they are nearly fuUy grown, and to protect them from frost 
till the approach of spring." 

The whole routine of culture required for the genus Nerine, may be 
conveyed in the following rules : — Encourage a vigourous growth of leaf 



156 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



(luring the autumn ; the requisites being, warmth enough to excite them, 
and ventilation sufficient to jjrevent their being drawn up weak. During 
the winter, their foliage must be protected against frost and drouth. 
About May they should be gradually ripened, by withholding water from 
them ; and in August or the beginning of September, their groTNth should 
be promoted by its application. N. lucida appears to differ from the rest, by 
continuing to grow all the year. 



BRUXSVIGIA. 

In this genus, we have another instance of the absurchty of keeping such 
plants in the stove temperature ; and, as a consequence, it is seldom they 
produce their bloom, — at least, the most splendid of the genus. The soil 
they seem to prefer, is a rich, light, tmfy loam, with a mixture of peat, sand, 
and completely decomposed dung. As the roots of the bulbs grow to a 
large size, it is proper that they should have large pots, because large 
bulbs always send down numerous strong roots to collect sufficient food 
for the flowers and foliage. Some cultivators, in planting tliis genus, make 
a hole in the mould, into wliich they lay a little white sand, on which the 
bulb is to be set, and also round its sides, to keep it from coming in con- 
tact with the mould ; but this we think is superfluous ; we would rather 
plant the bulb high, that is, set it almost on the suiface of the mould, 
for they are often injured by being too deeply planted. Give little water 
at first, but after vegetation has commenced, water should be given in great 
abundance, and continued while the fohage is making, and while the 
plants are in flower. After that period, they must be kept dry till the 
returning season. It is better to keep the bulbs of this genus in the pots 
dming the season of rest, than to take them out, and the best situation 
for them dining that period wiU be under the platform, recommended in 
the early part of tliis article. 



H-EMAXTHTJS. 

This is a very show^- genus when in flower, a state in which they are 
seldom seen, principally in consequence of being kept in a continual 
stove heat. Pew bulbous-rooted plants are more hardy, requiring only 
the temperatm'e of a pit, frame, or ordinary greenhouse. It appears that 
of this genus the species rotundifolius, 7naculatus, pumilio, hyalocay^uSj and 



ALSTRCEMERIA. 



157 



cameiis, prefer a light, sandy soil, mixed with peat, whereas the species 
orbicularis^ orassipesj and some others, prefer a strong loamy soil. They 
require a moderate supply of water while growing, but during their season 
of rest they should be kept diy, but not taken out of the pots until the 
season approaches, when they are beginning to grow, when they, like all 
other bulbs, must be re-potted into fresh mould. H. mv.ltvfi.orus is an 
exception to the above rule, for it requh'es a sn'ong heat to flower it weU. 

ALSTRCEMERIA. 

This splendid genus, chiefly natives of Chih, will all thrive and flower 
in thefuUest perfection in a warm, sheltered border in the open air. Their 
singularity of form and beauty of coloming, however, demand for them a 
place in the bulb house, which is the most suitable for their c^ilture, as 
they associate better in appearance with bulbous-rooted plants than with 
any other. 

A rich, hght, loamy soil is the most proper for them ; and when culti- 
vated in pots they should be of large chmensions, as their roots are nu- 
merous, large, and very impatient of resti'aint. Most of them ripen seeds 
freely, from which abundance of young plants can be obtained ; but the 
most ready and expeditious mode of multiplying them, is by dividing the 
roots when potted or planted out in spring. The older species of this 
genus, viz., A. Jiytu and pelegrina, were long considered shy-flowering 
plants ; the reason was, they were treated as stove plants, and the too fre- 
quent error faUen into of keeping them constantly in a state of excite- 
ment. Ah plants of this genus, hke bulbous -rooted plants in general, 
should have a period of rest, and that commences when the fohage has 
been fully developed, the flowers faded, and the seeds matured : at which 
rime water should be gradually withheld, and during the period of their 
repose they should be kept quite diy. 

This family ai'e chiefly natives of Alpine situations, consequently they 
require to be cultivated in an airy, dx}' situation, and where the roots can 
be protected from severe fi'ost dming vrinter. Dming the season of then- 
growth, they can hardly be too hberaUy supphed with water, but while in 
an inactive state, are to be kept quite dry. The whole of our collection, 
amounting to thirteen species and varieties, have flowered most abundantly 
and splendidly, planted in a naiTOw border m front of a plant stove, and 
some duphcate plants have even flowered in the borders in the open gar- 
den : the only protection they had diuing the winter of 1S36-7, when the 



158 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



thermometer indicated twelve degrees of frost, was a thin covering of 
moss and dry fern laid over them. They require to be examined in spring, 
as slugs are apt to attack them, and if not prevented or removed, would 
soon devour them. This evil can always be easily guarded against, either 
by watering the bed with hme water occasionally, or by picking them off 
when they appear. 

The tubers should be planted rather deep than otherwise, wliich is both 
a protection against excessive cbought as well as severe fi'ost. The Hon. 
and Rev. ^yilliam Herbert found it advantageous to cover the bed in 
spring vdth saw dust, which the slugs do not Uke to crawl over, and also 
because it keeps the mould much moister by lessening evaporation. A top 
covering of peat, the same learned and zealous cultivator observes, is also 
disagreeable to slugs ; but we have not made the same obser\-ation. 

This splendid genus affords a fine field for the operation of artificial 
fecundation, and we apprehend that many beautiful and interesting varieties 
may yet be originated by that means. Professor Poepipg mentions hav~ 
ing fomid A. hcemantha gro\^'ing promiscuously, of e\ery shade of Ver- 
million, orange, yellow, sulphur, and white, which Mr. Herbert apprehends 
to have been hybrid varieties natiu*ally originated between the vermillion 
and wMte varieties, which are mentioned by the traveller Ruiz ; these 
latter being growing near together, the other varieties are their united 
offspring. I do not beUeve,'* says ]Mr. Herbert, " that we shall be able 
to produce the same result, even by garden cidtivation and sowing the 
seed of the vermillion plant, without first obtaining a white variety to 
cross with the vennilliou. The known variability of the genus, however, 
the white pelegrina and the beautiful two-coloured variety of pulchra, 
which have been raised in England, affords a great encouragement to cul- 
tivators." To those interested in the production of hybrids, the follow- 
ing remark of that great and good man, I\Ir. Herbert, will be instructive. 
" It is very remarkable, that the stigma of Alstroemeria does not come to 
perfection till after the decay of its anthers. The stamens advance suc- 
cessively, hke those of Nerine undulata, and like them nod before they 
rise, the petahne filaments taking the lead, but the two upper ones not 
simultaneously mth the lower. It results from this, that the stigma 
must either be fertilized by the pollen of another flower, or that its own 
scattered pollen must be efficient, after it seems dried up and lost ; in either 
case, there is a greater pi obabihty of the intrusion of the poUen of another 
individual, than when the stigma and anthers are mature at the same 
time." 

" The valuation in the form and coloui' of the flower of A. pulclira^ and 



ALSTRCEMERIA AXD TROP^OLUM. 



159 



the trvo-coloured varieties, as well as the seedlings of A. Cummmgiana 
from imported seeds, should render botanists very cautious not to multiply 
species too freely, on the appearance of such diyersities in natural specimens 
from different localities, which makes it very difficult to fix on the true 
distinguishing features.'^ 

In this opinion we most cordially agree with the ahoTC high authority ; 
and only wonder how some botanists have been led astray, in estabhsh- 
ing, as species, what, in reaUty, are only Tarieties. The day is probably not 
far distant when all specific distinctions wiU ]>e entirely exploded. The 
system of giving a Latin specific name to hybrid varieties is also much to 
be reprobated. This system has unfortunately^ to a certain extent, been 
followed by M. de CandoUe, and most extensively employed by the late 
Mr. Sweet, much to the confusion of science, and tending greatly, in om^ 
opinion, to bring scientific botanical nomenclature and arrangement into 
contempt, rather than the reverse. We might as weU dignify with scientific 
names, every variety of dahlia, pink, or tuhp, as some of the hybrid 
Alstroemeria, Amaryllis, Calceolaria ; — ^florist's names, where they are not 
coarse and vulgar, ai'e much more fitting. 

In continuation of the above quotation, Mr. Herbert adds, — " Little at- 
tention is to be paid to the length of the style in Alstrcsmeria ; its ma- 
turity is very tardy : it is very short at first, grows out slowly, and at last 
the stigma, which had appeared to be simple, expands and becomes trifid 
and patent. The anthers discharge their poUen long before the maturity 
of the style. The late development of the stigma should make the genus 
ver\^ Uable to spontaneous intermixtures of the species, but render it diiS- 
cult to obtain aitificial crosses. I failed in getting seed at aU from an 
attempt to fertilize the red pelegrina by the white, which must have 
arisen from having neglected the proper moment for fertihzing the style, 
or for selecting the poUen.'' 



TROP-^:OLrM. 

The perennial species of this genus require the same treatment as the 
last. Being climbing plants of very slender habits, it is well to place in 
each pot a branch of some deciduous tree for them to be trained to. We 
cannot admire the common-place manner in which they are trained to wire 
frames, which always gives them a stiff and formal appearance, and is 
both more expensive and troublesome than by allowing them to ramble in 
a natural manner up the small t^igs of a properly selected branch. 



160 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



The species of Crinum and Pancratium are both extensive and very 
desirable as fine-flowering and fragrant plants. Their culture is much 
less difficult than that of many other bulbs, but like them they are often 
injured by being kept in a constant state of excitement. During the period 
of making their leaves and producing their flowers, they require to be 
liberally supplied with water, but when the one fades and the other is 
fully formed, water should be gradually withheld from them. The follow- 
ing judicious remarks on the genus Crinum by Mr. Sansome, in the 
Floricultm-al Cabinet, is applicable to both. 

" The greater part of this genus, being inhabitants of hot countries, 
require the stove in order to their success, and a liberal supply of water 
during the summer nionths ; but during winter, the quantity of moisture 
should always be diminished, otherwise many of the bulbs will perish. 
I find, however, those v^th columnar stems do not object to plenty of 
moisture at all times as the habit of their leaves is more decidedly peren- 
nial ; but it is by far the best, at all times, to rather underwater than 
overwater, and particularly those varieties which are of tender growth. 

The compost I find best for Crinums generally, is a rich, yellow loam, 
rather of a friable texture ; many cultivators of Crinums use peat in the 
composts, but I consider it very prejudicial; plenty of drainage in the 
pots I consider very essential, so that the plants may often receive the 
proper nourishment of fresh water — the size of the pot depends on the 
habit of the bulb — but in order to bloom them well, they require plenty of 
pot room when in a healthy state. Whenever the youngest leaves of any 
Crinum with a perennial bulb, turn yellow and decay, the bulb should be 
allowed to go to rest for a short period ; too much moistm-e, in too low a 
temperature, wiU often produce this effect. In potting, the whole of the 
column should be kept above the soil, and all the obsolete coats, which 
are the base of the decayed leaves, should be gradually stripped away, 
leaving the bulbous stem smooth aM clean. I find nearly the whole 
genus to succeed the best when plunged up to the rim of the pots in 
troughs of sand, which are fixed over the flues ; and during very hot 
weather, I find it essential to inundate the troughs, but not to keep 
them constantly flooded. Some of the species, at the approach of winter, 
will require the pots to be turned on their sides, and to be kept perfectly 
dry. As soon as the plant has ceased to vegetate, shake the earth care- 
fully from the bulb, pull off the decayed coats mthout making the bulb \fr 
bleed, and re-pot it in dry pulverized loam, and let no water be given till 
the spring. My minimum heat is sixty five degrees of Fahrenheit, and 
maximum, from eighty to ninety degrees." 



PHYCELLA, HABRAXTHUS, AXD ISMENE. 161 
PHYCELLA. 

This genus is found indigenous in a strong sandy soil, upon a dry rocky 
substratum ; they flourish best, therefore, in a soil of the same descrip- 
tion, and by having the pots in which they grow well di ained. Peaty soil 
appears to be very inimical to them, and Herbert attributes to the 
attempts to grow them in that soil, and to the generally received opinion 
that the genus is difficult to cultivate, the circumstance of then* being 
seldom found in perfection. They will flower well if planted in a 
warm border in the open air, but are apt to vegetate during winter, should 
it be at all mild, and therefore are very liable to be injured by frosts that 
may ensue, as it is thek habit to flower after the foliage has attained its full 
size, and before they go into a state of rest. Theu- season of rest (during 
which period they should be kept perfectly dry) continues from the time 
the fohage begins to wither, which usually occurs in August, till the bulbs 
begin to send out young fibres, indications of returning vegetation usually 
observed about February, but which will be readily discovered, as the bulbs 
should be kept in sand, in a box or drawer. A period of about six months 
should be allowed for them to rest. 

HABRANTHUS. 

This genus flowers before the production of its leaves, which begin to 
develope themselves in autumn, and continue to grow through the winter. 
Great care ought to be taken that they sustain no check dming their 
growth ; for, as it has been already obsers^ed, upon the fuU maturation of 
the fohage of the bulbs chiefly depends the production of flowers. From 
this circumstance it will appear, that the genus is not well adapted to the 
open border cultm'e, so well suited to many other genera of Bulbous- 
rooted plants. 

WTien cultivated in a border," says Mr. Herbert, they should be 
covered with a glass frame, to keep them hot and dr\', in May, June, and 
July, and any covering of mats or straw, that will prevent injury from 
severe frost, may be sufficient for winter ; or they may be taken up when 
the leaves decay, without breaking the fibres, kept in sand, and re-set 
three months after." 

ISMENE. 

The whole of this beautiful genus require absolute rest dming winter, 
and dehght in a light sandy soil, at least to have fine white sand placed 

M 



162 



THE BULB HOrSE. 



round the bulb. They T^ill flower in the open border, if j)lanted in April 
in a Hght compost ; but the bulbs must be taken up in October or Novem- 
ber before being injm-ed by frost, and kept dry till the season of planting re- 
turns. A singular circumstance is recorded by Mr. Herbert of this family, 
viz., that the seed, which is large and round, vegetates immediately after it is 
sown, in a remarkable manner, forming a bulb as big as itself (sometimes 
much bigger) far under ground, without pushing any leaf. As soon as 
the seeds rot, the young bulb should be left without water until next 
spring. A person not aware of this pecuharity of the genus, when he 
found the seed • rotten, would be hkely to throw away the earth without 
suspecting the fonnation of the bulb near the bottom of the pot. If the 
seedling of Ismene Amancaes be grown in loam," says the same high 
authority, I beheve they would be twenty years before they attain a size 
to flower ; in pm'e white sand, or any sandy compost, I think they may 
flower the third." 



AMMOCHARIS. 



This genus requires a rich, rather strong soil, and to be abundantly 
supplied with water in summer, but during ^vinter, their season of rest, 
they should be kept perfectly dry. To flower them in full perfection, the 
pots should be plunged in a hot-bed, carefully shading the plants from 
the scorcliing sun, which if not attended to would destroy the fohage. 



163 



SELECT LIST OF BULBS. 



WH 

Pubescent Blood-flower. {Hcemantnus 

puhescens.) Fiowers in Angnst, in 

rich mould. Offsets. 
IVliite-flowered Blood-flower, ( Hcs- 

manthus alhif.os.) Flowers in Anril 

and August, in rich mould. Offsets. 
Xan'ow-leaved Criniim. iCruuim an- 

gustifoUum.) Rowers in June and 

July, in loam and peat. Offsets, 
Plaite'd Crinum. {Crinum plicatinn.) 

Flowers in June and Augnst, in ricli 

mould. Offsets. 
Carey's Crinum. (Cnniim Careyanum.) 

Flowers in Julv, in rich mould. 

Offsets. 

Shoit-stamined Crinum. ( Crinum 
hracJiyandrum,) Flowers in June 
and August, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Declined Crinum. {Crinum dedina- 
tur,i.) Rowers in Mav, in rich 
mould. Offsets. 

Revolute Crinum. {Crinum revohdum.) 
Rowers in June, in rich mould. 
Offsets. 

American Crinum. {Crinum Ameri- 
camim.) Rowers in Julv and Au- 
gust, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Pleasmg Crinum. {Crinum amopjium.) 
Rowers in Jidy and August, in rich 
mould. Ofl^ets. 

Many-flowered Crinum. {Crinum mul- 
tiflorum.) Flowers in Julv and Au- 
gust, in rich mould. Oflsets. 

\irgin TVood-soiTel. {Oxalis virginea.) 
Flowers in Januarv and Ausmst, in 
sand and peat. Offsets. 

Pretty Cape Wood-sorrel. ( O.xalis 
lepida.) Rowers in January- and 
November, in sand and peat. Off- 
sets. 

Pretty TVood - sorrel. ( 0.x aUs pul- 
chella.) Rowers in October and 
November, in sand and peat. Off- 
sets. 

Woolly-leaved AYood-sorrel. ( Gxalis 
lanato.) Rowers in October and No- 
vember, m sand and peat. Offsets. 

Jowny-leaved Wood-sorrel. {Oxalis 



tomeiitosa.) Rowers in April and 

May, in sand and peat. 
Wedg'e-leaved Wood-sorrel. ( Oxalis 

cuneifoUa.) Rowers in April and 

May,' in sand and peat. Offsets. 
Graceful Crinum. {Crinum venusium.) 

Rowers in July and August, in rich 

mould. Offsets. 
Elegant Crinum. ( Crinum elegans.) 

Flowers in September, in rich mould. 

Offsets. 

Long-peduncled Crinum. ( Crinum 
pedunculaturn.) Rowers in July and 
August, in rich mould. Offsets. • 

Xarrow-leaved Crinum. {Crinum an- 
gwstifoliurn.) Flowers in June and 
July^ in loam and peat. Offsets. 

Sumatra Criniun. {Crinum Sumafra- 
num.) Rowers in July and August, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Crowded Crimim . {Crin urn con fertum.) 
Rowers in June, in rich moidd. Off- 
sets. 

Tall Crinum. ( Crinum procerum. ) 
Rowers in July and August, in rich 
mould. Offsets. 

Clavate Gastronema. ( Ga-stronema 
davatum. ) Flowers in May and 
June, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Plantain Watsonia. {Wcdsonia planta- 
ginea.) Flowers in June and July, 
m sandy peat and loam. Offsets. 

Fasciculate Lapeyrousia. ( Lapeg- 
rousia fasdculata.) Rowers in May 
and June, in sandv peat and loam'. 
Offsets. 

Eatable Gladiolus. {Gladiolus edulis.) 

Rowers in May and June, in sandy 

peat and loam. ' Offsets. 
Linear Ixia. {Ixia linearis.) Rowers 

in April and May, in sandy peai and 

loani. Offsets. 
White-flowered Ixia. {Ixialei/cantha.) 

Rowers in May, in sandy peat and 

loam. Offsets.' 
Spurious Ixia. {Ixia figbnda.) Row- 
ers in April and May, in sandy peat 

and loam. Offsets. 



164 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



Upright Ixia. {Ixia erecta.) Flowers 
in May and June, in sandy peat and 
loam. Olfsets. 

Anemone - flowered Sparaxis. {>Spa- 
raxis anemonijiora.) Flowers in ]May 
and July, in sandy peat and loam. 
Offsets. 

Cape Tritonia. (Tritonia Capensis.) 
Flowers in August and October, in 
sandy peat and loam. Offsets. 



Long -flowered Tritonia. ( Tritorna 
longiflora.) Flowers in April and 
June, in sandy peat and loam. Off- 
sets. 

Pale-flowered Tritonia. {Tritonia pal- 
lida.) Flowers in August, in sandy 
peat and loam. Offsets. 

"Whitish Gladiolus. {Gladiolus albi- 
dm ) Flowers in May and June, in 
sandy peat and loam. Offsets. 



RED. 



Scarlet Blood -flower. {HcemantJius 
coccineus.) Flowers in August and 
October, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Thick-petioled Blood-flower. {Hceman- 
thus crassipes.) Flow^ers in June and 
July, in loam. Offsets. 

Glass-fruited Blood-flower. {Hcema?i- 
thus hyalocarpus.) Flowers in July, 
in sandy loam and peat. Offsets. 

Spear-leaved Blood-flower. {lIcEvian- 
fhus lancecefolius.) Flowers in Sep- 
tember and October, in rich moidd. 
Offsets. 

Musk-scented Blood-flower. {H<sman- 
thus moschatus.) Flowers in August 
and September, in rich mould. Off- 
sets. 

Many-flowered Brunsvigia. {Bruns- 
vigia multiflora.) Flowers in June 
and August, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Sickle-leaved Brunsvigia. {Brunsvigia 
f ale at a.) Flowers in May and June, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Rasp-leaved Brunsvigia. {Brunsvigia 
radula.) Flowers in April and Au- 
gust, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Guernsey Lily. {Nerine Sarniensis.) 
Flowers in September and October, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Anderson's Am.aryllis. ( Amaryllis 
Andersoni.) Flowers in rich mould. 
Offsets. 

Glaucescent Amaryllis. ( Amaryllis 
glaucescens.) Flowers in June and 
October, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Long-flowered Amaryllis. {Amaryllis 
macrantha.) Flowers in June and 
October, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Short-flowered Amarylhs. {Amaryllis 
hreviflora.) Flowers in June and 
October, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Dark-red Amaryllis. {Amaryllis atro- 
ruhens.) Flowers in May and June, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Rubescent Amaryllis. {Amaryllis ru- 
bescens.) Flowers in April and May, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Pleasing Amaryllis. {Amaryllis amo?na.) 
Flowers nearly all the year, in rich 
mould. Offsets. 

ColvilPs Amaiyllis. {Amaryllis Col- 



villi.) Flowers in June and July, in 
rich mould. Offsets. 

Bracted Amaryllis.. {Amaryllis brac- 
teata.) Flowers nearly all the year, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Reddish Amaryllis. {Amaryllis rubi- 
cund a.) Flowers in May and July, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Compact Amaryllis. {Amaryllis com- 
pacta.) Flowers nearly all the year, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Recurved-flowered Amaryllis. {Ama- 
ryllis recurvijiora.) Flowers in June 
and October, in rich mould. Off- 
sets. 

Narrow Habranthus. ( Habranthus 
an gust us.) Flowers in September, in 
peat and loam. Offsets. 

Robust Habranthus. ( Habranthus 
robustus.) Flowers in June and 
July, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Rosy' Wood-sorrel. {Oxalis rosea.) 
Flowers in September and Novem- 
ber, in sand and peat. Offsets. 

Bundle-flowered Wood-sorrel. {Oxalis 
floribunda.) Flowers in June and 
August, in sand and peat. Di\isioii 
of roots. 

Fork - leaved W^ood - sorrel. ( Oxalis 

furcata.) Flowers in September, in 

sand and peat. Offsets. 
Pretty Ixia. {Ixia ammia.) Flowers 

in April and May, in sandy peat and 

loam. Offsets. 
MonadelphusTi'ichonema.(T/'ic^o«ma 

monadelphum.) Flowers in July and 

August, in sandy peat and loam. 

Offsets. 

Blush Trichonema. {Trichonema pudi- 
cum.) Flowers in August, in sandy 
peat and loam. Offsets. 

Showy Trichonema. {Trichonema spe- 
ciosum.) Flowers in March and 
April, in sandy peat and loam. Off- 
sets. 

Strict-floAvered W^atsonia. {Watsonia 
strictiflora.) Flowers in June, in 
sandy peat and loam. Offsets. 

Bright Watsonia. ( Watso7iia fidgida.) 
Flowers in May, in sandy peat and 
loam. Offsets.' 



SELECT LIST OF BULBS. 



165 



PINK. 



Smaller Brunsvig-ia. {Brunsvigia mi- 
nor.) Flowers in July and August, 
in sandy loam. Offsets. 

Flexuose Nerine. (Nerine flexuosa.) 
Flowers in September and October, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Wave-flowered Nerine. {Nerine iindu- 
lata.) Flowers in May and June, in 
rich mould. Offsets. 

Roseate Nerine. (Nerine rosea.) Flow- 
ers in July, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Pretty Nerine. {Nerine pulchella.) 
Flowers in July, in rich mould. 
Offsets. 

Thick-leaved Crinum . ( Crin urn crassi- 

folium.) Flowers in September, in 

rich mould. Offsets. 
Flaccid Crinum. {Crinum flaccidum.) 

Flowers in July and August, in rich 

mould. Offsets. 
Sho^"}' Crinum. {Crinum speciosiim.) 

Flowers in July and August, in rich 

mould. Offsets. 
Noble Crinum. ( Crinum insigne. ) 

Flowers in November, in rich mould. 

Offsets. 

Submersed Crinum. ( Crinum mih- 
mersum.) Flowers in July, in rich 
mould. Offsets. 

Broad-leaved Crinum. {Crinum lati- 
folium.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Mamntian Crinum. {Crinum Mauriti- 
anum.) Flowers in March, in rich 
mould. Offsets. 

Charming Amaryllis. ( Amaryllis 
blanda.) Flowers in May and June, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Cousin Amaryllis. {Amaryllis conso- 
brina.) Flowers in May and June, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Forbes's Amaryllis. {Amaryllis For- 
besii.) Flowers in July and August, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Large-flowered Zepiiyranthes. {Zephy- 
ranthes grandiflora.) Flowers in May 
and June, in sandy loam. Offsets. 

Keeled Zephyranthes. {Zephyr antlius 
carinata.) Flowers in May and June, 
in sandy loam. Offsets. 

Two-cleft Habranthus. {Hahranfhus 
bifidus.) Flowers in June, in sandy 
loam. Offsets. 

Roseate Alstroemeria. {Alstrcemeria 
rosea.) Flowers in June and July, 
in loam, sand, and peat. Roots. 

Edible Alstroemeria. ( Alstrremeria 
eduUs.) Flowers in July and xVugust, 
in rich mould. Division of the roots. 

Pale Alstroemeria. {Alstramieria palli- 
da.) Flowers in September and Octo- 
ber, in rich mould. Offsets and seeds. 

Tube-flowered Oxalis. {Qjcalis iubi- 



flora.) Flowers in October and No- 
Vember, in sandy peat. Offsets. 

Rose-coloured Wood-sorrel. {Oxali.^ 
rosacea?) Flowers in September and 
November, in sand and peat. OtTsets. 

Reclining Wood-sorrel. {Oralis re- 
clinata.) Flowers in September and 
November, in sand and peat. Off- 
sets. 

Five-leaved Wood-sorrel. ( Oralis 
pentaphylla.) Flowers in February 
and November, in sand and peat. 
Offsets. 

Courtly Ixia. {Ixia aiilica.) Flowers 

in April and May, in sandy peat and 

loam. Offsets. 
Stained Ixia. {Ixia fucata.) Flowers 

in June and July, in sandy peat and 

loam. 

Bending-stalked Ixia. {Ixia flexuosa.) 

Flowers in April and ]\Iay, in sandy 

peat and loam. Offsets. 
Awnedlxia. {Ixia aristata.) Flowers 

in April and 3Iay, in sandy peat and 

loam. Offsets. 
Rosy Trichonema. {TricJionema ro- 

se'mn.) Flowers in July, in sandy 

peat and loam. Offsets. 
Red and T\^iite Sparaxis. {Spnrax';^ 

roseo-alba.) Flowers in April and 

May, in sandy peat and loam. 
Rosy' Tritonia. ( Tritonia rosea. ■ 

Flowers in June and July, in sandy 

peat and loam. Offsets. 
Spiked Watsonia. {Watsonia spicafa.' 

Flowers in ]May, in sandy peat and 

loam. Offsets. 
Red and White AYatsonia. {Watsonia 

roseo-alba.) Flowers in July and 

August, in sandy peat and loam. 

Offsets. 

Marginated Watsonia. ( Watsonia 
marginata.) Flowers in June, in 
! sandy peat and loam. Offsets. 

Short-leaved Watsonia. ( Watsonia 
brevifoUa. ) Flowers in May, in 
sandy peat and loam. Offsets. 

Short-leaved Gladiolus. ( Gladiolus 
brevifolius.) Flowers in June, in 
sandy peat and loam. Oftsets. 

Hairy Gladiolus. {Gladiolus hirsutus.) 
Flowers in April and June, in sandy 
peat and loam. Oflsets. 

Involute Gladiolus. ( Gladiolus in- 
rolufus.) Flowers in May and June, 
in sandy peat and loam. ' Oflsets. 

Dwarf Blood - flower. ( HcemantJius 
pumilio.) Flowers in August and 
September, in rich mould. Oflsets. 

Keel-leaved Blood-flower. {lite man- 
thus carinafus.) Flowers in August 
and September, in rich mould. Ofl- 
sets. 



166 



THE BULB HOrSE . 



Amaryllis-like Blood-flower. {Hcsman- 
thus amariiUoides.) Flowers in Au- 
g-ust and September, in ricli mould. 
Offsets. 

riesli-colonred Blood-flower. {Rcsman- 
tliiis carneus.) Flowers in June and 
July, in rich mould. Oftsets. 

Pale Cyrtantlms. {Cyrtanthus pal- 



Udus.) FxOwers in May and July, in 
rich mould. Ofl'sets. 

Shinino^ Bruns\-igia. {Bninsvigia lu- 
cid a.) Flowers in August, in rich 
mould. Ofl'sets. 

Poison-bulb. {Bninsvigia. toxicaria.) 
Flowers in September and October, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 



Caulescent Trichonema. {Trichonema 
caule.scens.) Rowers in June and 
July, in sandy peat and loam. Ofl'- 
sets. 

Sweet-scented Sparaxis. ( Spar axis 
fragrans.) Rowers in ^day, in sandy 
peat and loam. Oflsets. 

Anigczanthus-flowered Tritonia. {TH- 
ionia Anigozanthceflora.) Flowers 
in June and July, in sandy peat and 
loam. Oflsets. 

Self-coloured Tritonia. {Triionia con- 
color.) 1 lowers in April and June, 
in sandy peat and loam. Offsets. 

De la Roche Tritonia. ( Tritonia Rock- 
ensi-9.) Flowers in Aug-ust, in sandy 
peat and loam. Oftsets. 

Yellovr Tritonia. ( Tritonia flava. ) 
Rowers in February and March, in 
sandy peat and loam'. Offsets. 

Refracted Tritoiiia. {Tritonia refract a.) 
Rowers in I'^Iay and June, in sandy 
peat and loam. ' Oftsets. 

Tube -flowered Babiana. {Babiana 
tubifiora.) Flowers in June, in sandy 
peat and loam. Offsets. 

Sulphur-flowered Babiana. {Babiana 
suIpJmrea.) Flowers in May and 
June, in sandy peat and loam." Off- 
sets. 

Self-coloui'ed Gladiolus. ( Gladiolus 
concolor.) Fiowers in Z>Iay and June, 
in sandy peat and loam. ' Oftsets. 

Ti'ichonema-Ies ved Gladiolus . ( Gladi- 
olus tric/ionemlfotius.) Flowers in 
Jtlay and June, in sandy pea.t and 
loam. Offsets. 

Golden Xerine. {Nerine aurea.) Flow- 
ers in August and September, in 
rich mould. Offsets. 

Colchicum - flowered Sternbergia. 
(Sternbergia colchiciflora.) Flowers 
in August and September, in rich 
mould. Offsets. 

Yellow Sternbergia. ( Sternhergia 
lutea.) Flowers' in August and Sep- 
tember, in rich mould." Oftsets. 



Small Sternbergia. {Sternhergia ex- 
igua.) Rowers in August and Sep- 
tember, in rich mould. Oftsets. 

Perennial Vs'ood-sorrel. {Oxalic peren- 
nans.) Flowers in May and Septem- 
ber, in sandy peat. Oftsets. 

Silky Wood-sorrel. (Oxalis sei'icea.) 
Rowers in April and :May, in sandy 
peat. Oftsets. 

Burmann's Wood-sorrel. {Oxalis Bur- 
manni.) Rowers in October and 
November, in sandy peat. Offsets. 

Drooping Wood-sorrel. {Oxalis cernua. i 
Rowers in February and May, in 
sandy peat. Oftsets. 

Lobed Wood-son-el. {Oxalis lobata.) 
Flowers in October and November, 
in sandy peat. Oftsets. 

Spear-leaved Wood-sorrel. ( Oxalis 
lancei'\folia.) Flowers in October 
and November, in sandy' peat. Off- 
sets. 

Bean - leaved Wood - sorrel. ( Oxalis 
fabdefolia. ) Flowers in October 
and November, in sandy peat. Off- 
sets. 

Fan - leaved Wood - sorrel. ( Oxalic 
fl ab ell i folia.) Flowers in September 
and Novemljer, in sandy peat. Off- 
sets, 

LabmTium-leaved Wood-sorrel. (Ox- 
alis laburnifoUa.) Flowers in Sep- 
tember and October, in sandv peat. 
Oftsets. 

Bloody-leaved Wood-sorrel. {Oxalis 
sanguinea.) Rowers in October and 
December, in sandy peat. Ofl'sets. 

Yellowish Wood-sorrel. ( Oxalis lu- 
teola.) Rowers in January and Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Oftsets. 

Fleshy Wood-sorrel. {Oxalis carnosa.) 
Rowers in April and September, in 
sandy peat. Offsets. 

Lupine-leaved Wood-sorrel. {Oxalis 
hipinifoUa.) Rowers in October and 
November, in sandy peat. Oftsets. 



Round-leaved Blood-flower. {Haman- 
thus rotundif alius.) Flowers in June 
and October, in sandv loam andiseat. 
Oftsets. 

Scarlet Blood-flower. ( Hcenianthus 



puvAceus.) Rowers in May and Sep- 
tember, in rich mould. Offsets. 
Low Blood-flower. {Risnianthus hu~ 
rnilis.) Flowers in September and 
November, in rich mould. Oftsets. 



SELECT LIST OF BULBS, 



167 



Many-flowerecl Blood-flower. ( Hce- 
manthus muUiflonis. ) Flowers in 
May and September, in ricli mould. 
Offsets. 

Spiral-leaved Cyrtantliiis. ( Cyrtan- 
thus spiralis.) Flowers in ]\Iav and 
Au^st, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Josephine's Bmnsvigia. {Br'insvigia 
Joseplunce.) Rowers in Julv and 
August, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Red-margined Bruns^igia. {Brunsvigia 
marginata,) Flowers in September 
ai>d October, in rich mould. Off- 
sets. 

Glittering Xerine. {Xerine corusca.) 

Flowers in July and Au2rust, in rich 

mould. Offsets. 
Beautiful Xerine. {Xerine veimsta.) 

Flowers in June and Julv, in rich 

mould. Offsets. 
Queen- s Amaiyllis. {Amari'IUs re- 

gince.) Rowers in Mav and'June, in 
^ rich mould. Offsets. 
Scarlet Amaryllis, {AmarvUis coc- 

cineo.) Flowers all the vear, in rich 

mould. Offsets. 
Prince's Amaryllis. {AmaryUis win- 

cipis.) Flowers in June and Julv, in 

rich mould. Offsets. 
Stranger Amaryllis. {AmaryUis ad- 
vena.) Flowers in Z^Iav and^June, in 

rich mould. Offsets. 
Fien--red Amaryllis. (A_maryUis ru- 

tila.) Fiowers in April and'Mav, in 

rich mould. Offsets. 
Banded Amaiyllis. {AmaryUis riftafa.) 

Flowers in April and Mav, in rich 

mould. Offsets. 
Shining Amaryllis. {AmaryUis splen- 

dens.) Flowers in Mav and June, in 

rich mould. Offsets, 
imperial Amaryllis, {AmaryUis im- 



periaUs.) Flowers in June and Octo- 
ber, in rich mould. Offsets. 

August Amaryllis. ( AmaryUis au- 
gusta.) Flowers in June and Octo- 
ber, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Xet-flowered Amar\dlis. ( AmaryUis 
refijlora.) Flowers in May and July, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Equestrian Amaryllis. ( AmaryUis 
equestris.) Flovrers in July and Oc- 
tober, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Fiery Phycella. ( PliyceUa ignea. ) 
Flowers in Xovember, in rich mould. 
Offsets. 

Ghttering Phycella. {PhyceUa corusca.) 
Flowers in September, in sandy peat 
and loam. Offsets. 

Pmiple Yallota. ( VaUota purpurea.) 
Flowers in ]May and June, in peat 
and sand. Offsets. 

Ligtu Alstroemeria. {Alstrcemeria ligtu.) 
Rowers in Februaiy and ]\Iarch, in 
loam, sand, and peat. Roots. 

Hairy-leaved Alstrcemeria. {Alstroe- 
meria pilosa.) Flowers in October, 
in rich light mould. Seeds. 

Pi'etty Alstroemeria. {Alstroemeria pul- 
clie'Ua.) Flowers in June, in loam, 
sand, and P£at. Roots. 

Aletris'-like \Vatsonia. ( Watsonia 
aletr aides.) Rowers in May and July, 
in sandy peat and loam. 'Offsets. 

Winged-liowered Gladiolus. {Gladio- 
lus alatus.) Flowers in May and June, 
in sandy peat and loam. Offsets, 

ColviHe*s'_Gladiolus. (Gladiolus Col- 
villii.) Rowers in June and July, in 
loam and sand. Offsets. 

Ethiopian Antholyza. ( Antliolyza 
Efhiopica.) Rowers in May and 
June, in sandy peat and loam'. Off- 
sets. 



FLESK-COLOURED. 



Vermilion Amaiyllis. {Amwyllis mi- 
niata.) Rowers in June and Julv, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Flesh-coloured Ixia. {Ixia incarnata.) 
Flowers in April and Mav, in sandy 
peat and loam. Offsets, 

Curled-leaved Tritonia. ( Tritonia 
crispa.) Rowers in April and :Mav, 
in sandy peat and loam. Offsets. 

Iris-leaved Watsonia. {Watsonid iridi- 
folia.) Flovrers in 3Iav, in sand, 
peat, and loam. Ofisets.' 

Merian-s Watsonia. {Watsonia Me- 
riana.) Rowers in :May and June, 
in sandy peat and loam.' Offsets. 

Hastate Gladiolus. ( Gladiolus has- 
tatus.) Flowers in April and Mav, 
in sandy peat and loam. Offsets. 

Flesh-coloured Gladiolus. (Gladiolus 



carneus.) Rowers in May and June, 
in sandy peat and loam. Offsets. 
Creeping-rooted Wood-sorrel. {Oxalis 
reptafrix.) Rowers in Xovember 
and December, in sandy peat. 0ft'- 
sets. 

Resh-coloured Wood-sorrel. (Oxalis 
incarnata.) Rowers in April and 
June, in sandy peat. Offsets. 

Goat- s - foot Wood - sorrel. ( Oxalis 
caprina.) Rowers in March and 
June, in sandy peat. Oftsets. 

Livid Wood-sorrel. (Oxalis lirida.) 
Flowers in October and Xovember, 
in sandy peat. Oftsets. 

Toothed \Yood-sorrel. (Oxalis den- 
tata.) Rowers in Xovember and 
December, in sandy peat. Oftsets. 



168 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



PURPLE. 



Spreading-flowered Ixia. (Lria jyafens.) 

FlOAvers in April, in sand, peat, and 

loam. Offsets. 
Dotted-flowered Watsonia. {Watsonia 

punctata.) Flowers in April and 

May, in sandy peat and loam. 0ft- 

sets. 

Thunberg's Babiana. {Bahiana Thun- 

hergii.) Flowers in April, in sandy 

peat and loam. Otfsets. 
Gaping-flowered Babiana. {Bahiana 

ring ens.) Flowers in ]May and June, 

in sandy peat. Offsets. 
Slender-flowered Babiana. {Bahiana 

tenuiflora.) Flowers in IMay and 

June, in sandy peat and loam. Oft*- 

sets. 

Purple Babiana. {Babiana purpurea.) 
Flowers in May and June, in sandy 
peat. Offsets. 

Curve-leaved Nerine. {Nerine curvi- 
folia.) Flowers in INIay and Septem- 
ber, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Lateral-flowered Wood-sorrel. {Oi filis 
lateriflora.) Flowers in March and 
April, in sandy peat. Offsets. 

Canescent Wood-sorrel. {Oxalis cane- 
scens.) Flowers in January and Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Offsets. 

Dotted Wood-sorrel. {OxaUs punctata.) 
Flowers in April and June, in sandy 
peat. Offsets. 

Purple Wood-sorreL {Oxalis pur- 
purea.) Flowers in October and No- 
vember, in sandy peat. Offsets. 

Corn-field Gladiolus. {Gladiolus sege- 



tus.) Flowers in June and July, in 

sandy peat and loam. Offsets. 
Long- - flowered Crinum. ( Crinum 

longiflorum.) Flowers in July, in 

ricii mould. Offsets. 
Ruddy Crinum. {Crinum verecundum.) 

Flowers in July and August, in rich 

mould. Offsets. 
Lovely Crinum. ( Crinum amahile. ) 

Flowers in June and August, in rich 

mould. Offsets. 
Netted-veined Amanilis. {Amaryllis 

reticulata.) Flowers in April and 

May, in rich mould. Offsets. 
Yallet's Amaryllis. {AmarifUis Valleti.) 

Flowers all the year, in rich mould. 

Offsets. 

Purpurescent Amarj'llis. {Amaryllis 
purpurescens.) Flowers all the year, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Spreading Aman'Uis- ( Amaryllis 
patens^ Flowers all the year, in rich 
mould. Offsets. 

Annesley's Amanilis. ( Amaryllis 
Annes'leyana.) Flowers in May and 
July, in' rich mould. Offsets. 

Purple Amaryllis. ( Amaryllis pur- 
purea.) Flowers in May and July, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Campanulate Amaryllis. {Amaryllis 
carnpanulata.) Rowers in June and 
October, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Solandra-flowered Amaryllis. {Ama- 
ryllis ^olandrceflora.) Rowers in 
April, in rich mould. Offsets. 



ORAXGE. 



Conical Ixia. {Ixia conica.) Rowers 
in April and i\Iay, in sandy peat and 
loam. Offsets. 

Three-colom-ed Sparaxis. {Spai'axis 
tricolor.) Flowers in ]May, in sandy 
peat and loam. Offsets. 

Saffroned Tritonia. {Tritonia crocata.) 
Rowers in May and June, in sandy 
peat and loam.' Offsets. 

Namaqua Gladiolus. {Gladiolus na- 
maquensis.) Flowers in jNIay and 
June, in sandy peat and loam.* Off- 
sets. 

Permeable Gladiolus. {Gladiolus per- 
meahilis.) Rowers in May and June, 
in sandy peat and loam. Offsets. 

Narrow-leaved Cyrtanthus. {Cyrtan- 
thus angustifolfus.) Flowers in May 
and June, in rich mould. Offsets. 



Striated C>Ttanthus. ( Cyrtanthus 
striatus.) ' Rowers in July, in rich 
mould. Offsets. 

Related Amaryllis. {Amaryllis con- 
sanguinea.) 'Rowers all the year, in 
rich mould. Offsets. 

Powdery Amaryllis. {Amaryllis pul- 
verulenta.) Rowers in April and 
May, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Few-flowered Alstroemeria. {Alstroe- 
meria pauciflora.) Rowers in Sep- 
tember, in rich mould. Division of 
the roots. 

Piotta's Wood-sorrel. {Oxalis Piottie.) 
Rowers in January and September, 
in sandy peat. Offsets. 

Very-tall An tliolyza. {Antholyza prce- 
la'ta.) Flowers'in January and Febru- 
ary, in sandy peat and loam. Offsets, 



SELECT LIST OF BULBS. 



169 



BLUE. 



Monadelphous Ixia. {Ixiamonadelpha.) 
Flowers in April and ^Nlay, in sandy 
peat and loam. Offsets. 

Sky-blue Trichonema. {Trichonema 
ccelestimnn.) Flowers in March and 
April, in sandy peat and loam. Off- 
sets. 

Columna's Triclionema. {Trichonema 
Colinmice.) Flowers in Marcli and 
April, in sandy peat and loarn. Off- 
sets. 

Striated Tritonia. {Tritonia striata.) 

Flowers in May and June, in sandy 

peat and loam. Offsets. 
Elder - scented Babiana. ( BaMana 



samhucina.) Rowers in April and 
May, in sandy peat and loam. Off- 
sets. 

Corymbose Lape^TOusia. ( Lapey- 
rousia corymhosa.) Flowers in May 
and June," in sandy peat. Offsets. 

Falcate Lape^Tousia. ( Laperousia 
falcata.) Flowers in ]May and June, 
in sandy peat and loam. ' Offsets. 

Yiolet-col'onred Griffinia. {Griffinia 
hyacinthina.) Flowers in June and 
September, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Intermediate Griffinia. {Griffinia in- 
termedia.) Flowers in 31arcli and 
April, in peat and loam. Offsets. 



VARIEGATED. 



Pillar Ixia. {Lxia columeilaris) Flow- 
ers in August, in sandy peat and 
loam. Offsets. 

Lined Tritonia. {Tritonia lineata.) 
Flowers in ^Nlay, in sandy peat and 
loam. Offsets.* 

Narrow - leaved Babiana. {Babiana 
angustifolia.) Flowers in May and 
June, in sandy peat and loam. Off- 
sets. 

Various -coloured Nerine. ( Xerine 
versicolor.) Flowers in July and 
October, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Various-coloured AmaiyUis. {Ama- 
ryllis versicolor.) Flowers all the 
year, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Changeable Amaryllis. ( Amaryllis 
mutahilis.) Flowers all the year, in 
rich mould. Offsets. 

Lovely x^maryllis. {Amaryllis ama- 
hilis.) Flowers in June and October, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Banded Amaryllis . {Amaryllis vittata.) 



Flowers in July and August, in rich 
mould. Offsets. 

Pelegrina Alstroemeria. {Alstrcerneria 
pelegrina.) Flowers from June to 
September, in rich mould. Division 
of the roots. 

St. Martin's Flower. ( Alstroemeria 
Flos Martini.) Flowers in June, in 
rich mould. Division of the roots. 

Ovate Alstroemeria. ( Alstr(Bmeria 
ovata.) Flowers in June and July, 
in rich mould. Division of the roots 
and by seeds. 

Rather-iiairy Alstroemeria. {Alstroe- 
meria hirtella.) Flowers in July, in 
rich mould. Seeds and division of 
the roots. 

Xeill's Alstroemeria. ( Alstroemeria 
Neillii.) Flowers in June, in rich 
light mould. Offsets. 

Acute-leaved Alstroemeria. {Alstroe- 
meria acutifolia.) Flowers in July. 
Seeds and offsets. 



Superb Amaryllis. ( Amaryllis su- 
perba.) Flowers in April a\id June, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Large-flowered Amaryllis. {Ajnaryilis 
grandiflora.) Flowers in ]May and 
June, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Well's Amaryllis. {Amaryllis Wells- 
iana.) Flowers in July and August, 
in rich mould. Offsets. 

Comely Amaryllis. {Amaryllis decora.) 
Flowers in 5lay and August, in rich 
mould. Offsets. 

Variegated Amaryllis. ( Amaryllis 
variegata.) Flowers in June and 
July, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Johnson's Amaryllis. ( Amaryllis 
Johnsoni. ) Flowers in iNIay and 
June, in rich mould. Offsets." 



Striated-flowered Amaryllis. {Ama- 
ryllis striatiflora.) Flowers all the 
year, in rich mould. Oflsets. 

Riband - bearing Amaryllis. {Ama- 
ryllis vittiferaJ) Rowers in ]May and 
July, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Veiny Amaryllis. {Amaryllis venosa.) 
Flowers in June and October, in rich 
mould. Oflsets. 

Four-coloured Amaryllis. {Amaryllis 
guadricolor.) Flowers in June and 
October, in rich mould. Oflsets. 

Many-channelled Amaryllis. {Ama- 
ryllis multistriata.) Flowers in June 
and October, in rich mould. Off- 
sets. 



170 



THE BULB HOUSE. 



Capillary Ixia. ( Txia capillaris. ) 
Flowers in April and ^Jay, in sandy 
peat and loam. Offsets. 

Bulb - bearing Sparaxis. {^paraxis 
balbifera.) Flowers in May and 
June, in sandy peat and loano '. Off- 
sets. 

Catchfly-like Lapeyrousia. ( Lapey- 
roKs'ia silenoides.) Flowers in May 
and July, in sandy peat and loam. 
Offsets. 



gr: 

Green-flowered Ixia. {Ixia vivid i- 
flora.) Flowers in May and June, in 
sandy peat and loam. 'Offsets. 

Viper Gladiolus. { Gladiolus viperafus.) 
Flowers in April and 3Iay, in sandy 
peat and loam. Offsets, 



Miller's Gladiolus. {Gladiolus Milleri.) 
Flowers in April and May, in sandy 
peat and loam. Offsets. 

Cloven - leaved Wood - sorrel. {Ox- 
alls bifida.) Flowers in September 
and October, in sandy peat. Off- 
sets. 

Veiny Wood-sorrel. {Oxalis ve7iosa.) 
Flowers in October and November, 
in sandy peat. Offsets. 



;en. 

Green-flowered Tritonia. ( Tritonia 
viridis.) Flowers in July, in sandy 
peat and loam. Offsets. 

Caln^trated Amaryllis. ( Amaryllis 
calypfrafa.) Flowers in May and 
Aug^ust, in ricli mould. Offsets. 



171 



THE SUCCULENT HOUSE. 



Until within the last few years, succulent plants have had few admirers 
in this coiintr}^, since the days of Dillenius, and Lee the founder of the 
Hammersmith nursery. The names of Haworth, Hitchen, Eichardson, 
and the present venerable curator of the Chelsea gardens, will be immor- 
tahzed as being the means of retaining in this country a section of plants 
both curious and splendid, and it gives us pleasure to state that this in- 
teresting family is again beginning to attract the attention of the cultivator. 
It is true, the Orcliidece is at present its principal rival, but the trouble 
and expense of cultivating the latter, when compared with the former, will 
be always a barrier to their general introduction. 

The most valuable collections in England, with which we are acquainted, 
are those at Claremont, Kew, Yv^oburn Abbey, Walton, Chelsea Botanical 
Gardens, i\Ir. Palmer of Shacklewell, and IMackay of Noi-wieh. At 
Claremont, above nine hundred species are cultivated ; and at Wobum, 
the collection of Cactus amounts to about three himdred species. 

So httle is yet known in this country of the splendour of the flowers of 
many species of Cactus, excepting by description, that we need not par- 
ticularize any by name, only observing, that few plants we know of can 
be compared to the Cactus (but more properly Cereus) speciosissimus, Cerevs 
grandiflora, Cactus, or EpipJiyllum speciosum, and many hybrids originated 
in the gardens of this countr^^ The other families of succulents that are 
conspicuous for fine flowers are Talinum, Mesemiryanthemum, Crassula, 
Rochea, Kalosanthes, and Euphorhia. 

Succulent plants in general are capable of being cultivated in situations 
where few other exotic plants would live, and require much less labour 
and attention ; they require seldom to be re-potted, and many of them 
will exist a long time and without water, without sustaining injury. Few^ 
of the tenderest of them mil suffer in a temperature as low as forty-five 
or fifty degrees ; thus they require little artificial heat, if the house 
they are kept in is w^ater-tight. Such, therefore, renders them, of all 



172 



THE SUCCULENT HOUSE. 



Other plants, the most easily cultivated, and suited to those who superin- 
tend the management of their plants themselves. We learn from Mr. Don, 
that these plants are found in the dry est situations, where not a blade of 
grass nor a particle of moss can grow, on naked rocks, old walls, and sandy 
hot plains, alternately exposed to the heaviest dews at night, and the 
fiercest rays of the noon-day's sun. Soil is to them a something to keep 
them stationary, rather than a means of nomishment, which to those plants 
is conveyed by myriads of mouths, invisible to the naked eye, but cover- 
ing all their surface, to the juicy beds of cellular tissue which lie beneath 
them. 

In a humid, high temperature many of them may be grown to a large 
size in a short time, and all of them, daring their growing season, flourish 
better if the atmosphere around them is kept rather moist than other^sise. 



STRUCTURES FOR THE CULTIVATION OF SUCCULENTS. 

As succulents do not associate either in appearance or culture with any 
other description of plants, where they are to be extensively cultivated, a 




house or houses should be appropriated to them. As few of them attain 
a great height, at least until they are veiy old, a low-roofed house is best 



THE SUCCULENT HOUSE AT CLABEMOXT. 



173 



for them. The annexed diagram of a section is, in om' opinion, the best 
kind of stnictm-e for this pm-pose. 

The first represents the Succulent house at Claremont, which is one 
hundred and ten feet long, by eight feet wide. The passage occupies the 
middle, and on each side is a platform on which the plants stand ; that on 
the right hand for the taller growing kinds, while those of a more humble 
growth stand on that on the left. Against the back wall are two shelve s for 
creeping Succulents, and a small shelf under the roof in front is kept 
for the most delicate and minute. The house is heated by one flue, which 
enters at one end and terminates at the other. As one end of this house 
is so much hotter than the other, in consequence of one fire only being 
used, the plants that require the greatest heat are placed at that end, and 
those of a hardier character at the other : thus, the Cactuses, EuphorMas, 
and Stapelias, occupy the hottest end of the house, and are followed by the 
Aloe, Crassula, &c., finishing vdth. Sempervivum and Mesembryanthemum, 
w^hich require the least heat of any. 




The annexed sketch is a Succulent house in the royal gardens at Kew, 
which is very well adapted for a small collection. The flue {a) extends 
the whole length of the house under the front platform, and terminates in 
the back wall at the end farthest from where it entered. 

The most complete house for this section of plants would be, in our 
opinion, a span-roofed structure, as in the annexed diagram, and such a 
house fifty feet in length would hold a very complete collection. The 
scandent Cactce, and otherj slender young kinds, might be trained under 
the rafters \Nith very^ good effect. In a house of this description, if 



174 



SrCCULEXT HOUSE. 



exceedins fifcx- feet in length, there should be two furnaces, one at each 
end, and the nues {a a) should be placed parallel to the side walls. 




PROPAGATIOX AXD TREATMEXT WHILE YOUXG. 

The genus jipse/zibrua/ithemum. with the exception of a few which are 
'innuals, are all readily cultivated by cuttings, and the annual species by 
seeds, which ripen freely, and should be sown as soon as they are ripe, in 
pots of iinely-sifted hglit loam, well di'ained, and placed on a shelf, or 
diw. au-y place in the Succulent house, till they come up and are fit for 
potting into single pots. Cuttings may be taken clT at any period during 
spring or summer, dried for a few days in a somewhat shaded place, and 
dien planted in pots well di'ained and filled with a mixture of light, sandy 
loam and hme rubbish. They do not require to be covered with bell 
glasses, but are best placed on a cool, dry shelf, or in any dry pit where 
they can be shaded for a few days until they begin to make roots. Young 
wood, of com-se. should be chosen as emitting roots soonest, and that part 
of the lirancli which contains the germinating bud. Most of them will 
root in from tliree to live weeks, when they ai'e to be potted into small 
pots, well drained, and in rich, hght loam, with a slight mixture of very 
rotten dung. The first two sections, viz., Siilccaulia and Pdngentia. in 
HawOith's arrangement of this genus, are so small, and being without 
branches, can only be increased by dividing the whole plant : but this is 
a matter of no great dirhculry. and only requires caution in the dissection, 
so as not to occasion larger wounds than absolutely necessaiy. and also to 
diy the chvided parts preriously to planting, as they are hable to rot, or 
damp off. 

The genera Hoyay Stapelia, Tridentea, Gonostemon, Podanthus, Grbea, 



THE CRASSULA. 



175 



Tromotriche, Obesia, Buvallia, Huernia, &c., are ail perennial plants, and 
are most readily increased by cuttings, which should be taken off at the 
junction of the stems, where they are only shghtly attached. Some of 
the very smallest may be divided at the root, and ail of them produce 
seeds which vegetate freely. 

CRASSULA COCCINEA, AND C. VERSICOLOR, 

Are flowering plants of great beauty and of easy culture. The following 
remarks on this subject by Mr. G. Hai'rison, in Vol. YI. of the Floricul- 
tural Cabinet, deserve attention. 

" In propagating these plants," says Mr. H., I take off cuttings in 
March. I find it ver)- essential to dry them a little previous to planting, 
as, being succulents, they are apt to damp off ; each is cut off close under 
a joint, and about five inches in length. The pots I use are thirty-two's ; 
I place at the bottom of each pot about two inches deep of potsherd, 
broken small ; upon these, one inch deep of mould, then two inches of 
white sand, in which the cuttings are inserted ; six or eight may be 
planted in one pot ; the pot is filled up with mould, which is pressed close 
round each cutting. The plants are plunged into a hot-bed frame, at from 
seventy to eighty degrees, which soon causes the cuttings to strike root ; 
I give no water till the cuttings begin to grow, when a httle is given with 
caution. As soon as they have got well rooted, I pot them off into forty- 
eight sized pots, one in each pot. The compost I use is of equal quantity- 
of rich loam and peat earth, with one sixth part added of lime rubbish, 
broken fine. I have repeatedly nsed various other composts, but always 
found the plants to succeed best in the above. I re-plunge the pots into 
the frame, and admit at all times as much air and water as the season will 
admit of. Should any of the cuttings not throw out more than one shoot, 
the end is pinched off, which will cause the emission of a number of shoots 
for blooming the following year." 

It should here be observed, as it is from the top of the shoots that the 
flowers are produced, that when flowers are desired, the shoots should be 
permitted to extend themselves without afterwards being cut. But to 
return to Mr. H.'s excellent paper. 

" The plants are kept in a humid temperature until October, when a 
little water and heat will be required until March follov^ing, when as many 
plants as are intended to bloom early are plunged into a brisk heat, either 
in a hot-bed frame, or pine pit, which soon causes the production of a 



176 



THE SUCCULENT HOUSE. 



number 'of corymbs of bloom ; as soon as these appear, the plants are 
re-potted into thhty-two sized pots, with their bulbs as entire as possible ; 
I give little water, and re-plunge them into the bed ; when the blossoms 
are beginning to expand, the plants are removed into the greenhouse, and 
by being kept from the hot scorching sun, they keep in bloom for several 
weeks. By removing a quantity of plants, every three or four weeks, from 
the cool frame into the hot-bed or pine pit, I have been enabled to have 
fine blooming plants from May to October following. Those plants which 
have flowered in March following may be turned out of their pots, and 
the balls partly reduced, when they may be repotted and managed in 
every respect as before stated for blooming plants. Plants raised from 
cuttings when from one to three years old, are by far the best for bloom- 
ing, and are far preferable to old plants being cut down.'" 

In a very similar manner, we have succeeded in flowering that splendid 
plant Rochea falcata, and some others of similar habits. 

The genera Portulacaria, Rochea^ Kalosanthes, Crassulay TurgosiUy 
Globulea, Curtogyne, are also readily increased by cuttings, and rarely by 
seeds. We ought, however, to remark, that several very fine hybrids of 
the genus Crassula have been originated in the Bristol nursery by Mr. 
Maes, and we would beg to dkect the attention of cultivators to try similar 
experiments. 

The genus Hoy a is readily multiphed by the leaves, each of which will, 
if planted in light soil and kept moderately dry, produce perfect plants. 
The original genus Stapelia (now sub-divided) seeds so freely in a culti- 
vated state, that it is probable that more varieties exist in our gardens than 
are to be found in an indigenous state, and hence the great confusion which 
at present exists in regard to their nomenclature. The late Mr. Masson, 
author of a descriptive work on this genus, and who travelled for several 
years at the Cape of Good Hope, mentioned to us, many years ago, the 
great difficulty he had in recognizing the plants of this family which he 
had sent to the Kew gardens, so much had they become altered by culti- 
vation, for in their native localities they were the smallest of all phoeno- 
gamous plants, and existed in the desert sands of Cafiraria, far beyond 
that of any other vegetable, constituting the principal food of a small 
species of rat, which was, to all appearance, the only animal that could 
exist upon these limits of perpetual sterility. This genus has also 
another pecuharity, namely, that of having a very ofi'ensive smell while 
in flower, resembling carrion, and consequently attracting the large flesh- 
fly, which deposits its eggs in the flower, which in a few days is often filled 
with maggots. 



EUPHORBIA. 



177 



The genera Agave and Furcroea are increased only by suckers, which 
in some species rise abundantly from the roots. Others, however, seldom 
show a disposition to produce in this manner, unless the centre of the 
plant be cut out or destroyed ; hence some of these are still great rarities 
in the gardens of this country. Seeds of them are sometimes obtained 
from South America, of which they are natives ; but few of them seed in 
this country, although one species, Agave americanay flowers frequently, 
and not once in a hundred years, as is vulgarly asserted. 

Littcea geminiflora veraj the Buonapartea juncea of the gardens, is 
increased by seeds only, or by destroying the centre of the parent plant, 
whence a supply of deformed offsets or suckers is obtained. 

The genera RJiipidodendron, Pachidendron, Aloe, Bowiea, Gasteria, Ha- 
worthia, Apicra, &c., increase readily by cuttings from such species as pro- 
duce branches, by suckers which arise from many other species ; by seeds, 
either imported or ripened in this country ; and some of the rarer, which 
neither form branches^ flower often, nor send out suckers, are increased 
by the leaves. These should be taken off when easily separated from the 
plant, and after being slightly dried, laid, not planted, in a pot of mould, 
kept pretty dry, and moderately shaded ; by this means some of the rarer 
species, such as Aloe africanum, A.ferox, &c., have been multiphed. 

The genus Echeveria produces abundance of cauhne leaves, that is, 
small leaves upon the flower stem, which when ripe fall off, and if laid 
upon the surface of the mould in a pot, wiU send out roots in a few days, 
and produce perfect plants in two or three weeks. Through ignorance of 
this simple mode of increase, the writer of these pages has to accuse himself 
of being the cause of Echeveria grandifolia being lost to this country. It 
was an imported plant, received by Mr. Tate, of Sloane Square, from Mr. 
Ackerman, who found it in Mexico ; it flowered in his possession, and 
was figured by the late Mr. Sweet, in his British Flower Garden. This 
genus is very hardy, and the species cocciyiea and giblifiora are elegant 
flowering plants. 

The famihes Cotyledon, Anacampseros, &ic., are readily increased in 
some instances by cuttings, in a similar way to that of Crasmla, and in 
others by division of the root: 



EUPHORBIA 



Requires bottom heat to cause cuttings of it to root speedily, and the 
same may be said of the genus Pedilani/ms. 

N 



178 



THE SUCCULEXT HOUSE. 



SEMFERVITUM 

Is multiplied by cuttings and offsets of the smaller and more common 
kinds, and the rarer by seeds, which they produce in abundance ; but as 
they die in general after flowering, care must be taken that the seed is 
saved, and sown immediately after it is ripe. 

Several species, beheved to be new, are growing vigorously in the 
Claremont collection of Succulents, which contains nine hundred species, 
and is supposed to be the richest in Britain. Plants of the larger species 
of this genus flower beautifully when planted in the flower borders during 
summer, but, of course, must be taken up and re-potted in the autumn. 

The propagation of plants of the natural order Cactece is different in 
different genera of that order. 

MAMMILLARIA 

Is increased by seeds, imported or ripened in this country : some species, 
such as coronata, ccespitosa, stella-aurata, &c., send out branches or offsets, 
which when carefully separated from the plant readily strike root if kept 
dry and moderately warm. Others do not so readily increase, except by 
seeds. The only method at present known to remedy this, is by cutting 
out individual mammillce, or teats, and laying them on the surface of 
mould : keep them dry and covered with a bell glass, till they have begun to 
make roots, when the glass should be removed, and soon after the plants 
potted in xtry small pots, and placed on a dry shelf near the glass in the 
Succulent house. The spring and summer is of course the most eligible 
time for this operation. In some tall-growing sorts, such as eriacantM. 
the top may be cut off about the thickness of a shilling, and the wound 
healed by the application of finely-sifted charcoal, caustic, hme dust, <Scc., 
being laid over it occasionally ; in some cases the plant wHl very soon 
send out shoots from round the top, and at other rimes years may elapse 
before this circumstance occurs. These young shoots, when they have 
attained a proper size, may be carefully cut off and planted, when they 
will make fine young plants after a rime. The same process may again 
be practised on the old plant, by cutting off another thin slice from its 
crown, and treating it as above. 

MELOCACTUS. 

The genus Melocactiis is the most dilScult to increase of all the CactecE : 



pkopagatiox of cacte^. 



179 



we are not aware of any other mode, than that of obtaining them from 
their native countries, or by diligently endeavouring to obtain seeds of 
those specimens that flower in the European gardens. 



ECHiyOCACTUS. 

This section of Cactece, in many instances, produce offsets in abundance; 
and many of them flower and produce seeds, from which a supply is ob- 
tained. Some few of them admit of having their tops cut oflT; but 
when this can be avoided, the better, as it not only disfigures the 
plant ever after, but there is a considerable hazard run of losing it 
altogether. 



CEREUS. 

This extensive and fine- flowering genus are all most readily increased 
by cuttings, excepting those which have but one stem, such as C. senilis, 
grandis, and others, to obtain which it is necessary to take the tops 
oflf as above mentioned. The others, which send up several stems, or 
divide themselves into branches, are readily propagated &y the ordinary 
means. 

Cereus speciosissimus is certainly one of the most splendid of all plants, 
and is both easily cultivated and flowered. It is propagated by cuttings, 
which should be left in a diw, cool place for a few days after being taken 
from the parent plant, before they are planted, for if this precaution is 
not taken, there will be great danger of theii* rotting, instead of sending 
out roots. Light, sandy soil, or hght loam, with a considerable portion of 
lime rubbish, broken fine, mixed with it, is the most proper soil in which 
to root all the Cactus tribe. They will requu"e scarcely any water until they 
begin to gi'ow, after which they tn^U requu'e it in considerable quantity. 
These plants, by good cultivation, may be speechly grown to a ven»- large 
size ; but like all other plants required of a large size, they must have 
abundance of food and plenty of pot room. A plant of this sort was 
grown by one of the most successfid cultivators in Scotland, the late 
Mr. Henderson, of AYoodhall, in a few years' tune, to a sufficient size to 
cover a trelhs of eighty-four square feet, and produced the amazing 
number of tliree hundi-ed flowers, all expanded at the same time. This 
plant grew in a pot, in a soil composed of two parts rich loam, three of 



180 



THE SUCCULENT HOUSE. 



decomposed manure, and one consisting of equal quantities of peat, sand, 
and broken tiles. Abundance of water is required for this species while 
it is in a growing state, and while it is maturing its flower buds ; but 
doling winter, or when the plant is in a state of rest, little or no water 
should be given to it. 

EPIPHYLLUM. 

This genus is readily propagated by cuttings, and some of them seed 
freely, particularly the hybrid varieties, of which there are many ; and all 
of them free and splendid flower ers. This genus is also successfully grown 
by being grafted on the more common Opuntiacece, and best of all on the 
common Pereskia. 

The process of grafting is exceedingly simple : a small part of the plant 
intended to be grafted is selected, a thin sUce of the fleshy part of both 
stock and graft is taken off, and the sap is so glutinous that the piece will 
adhere without the usual modes of securing ; but, for gi-eater certainty, it 
is advisable to fasten it with bass. During the operation, great care must 
be taken not to bniise the parts operated upon, as, if such be the case, 
there would be some danger of the plants rotting. Epiphyllum truncatum, 
&c. may be grafted on Cereus triqueter^ or Pereskia aculeata, with good 
effect, as that beautiful plant is seen to most advantage when elevated so 
that the flowers are placed above the level of the eye of the observer ; 
besides, the pendent direction of the plant will cause it to produce its 
blossoms much more abundantly. 

OPUNTIA. 

All of this genus are readily increased by cuttings taken off at a joint, 
and partially dried before planting. The branches of this tribe will live 
six months out of the ground, if kept in a cool, dry place (above the 
freezing point), and, according to Havroith, have been found serviceable 
at sea in long voyages, when other vegetables could not be procured. 
They abound in a highly anti-scorbutic juice and pulp, and, therefore, 
might be worth the futm'e attention of navigators, as they are to be ob- 
tained in great abundance in hot climates. 

The two genera Rliipsalis and PeresMa stiike freely by cuttings ; and 
the former produces seeds abundantly, which vegetate veiy freely in a 
light soil and genial warmth. 



MR. PEARCE'S practice. 



181 



^Ir. D. Pearce, in the Horticultural Cabinet, VoL XL p. 175, gives the 
follo^ng as his practice in the cultiTation of the genus Cactus : — 

All the species of Cactus,'* that is, the fine-flowering soits, may he 
treated as follows : — Put them in loam and peat, or sandy loam, mixed 
with about a fourth part of hme rubbish. Always let the pots in which 
they are planted be as small as the plants will allow : large pots ai'e in- 
jurious, because the roots ai-e prevented fi'om reaching the sides for so 
long a time, and the body of soil is liable to retain too much moistiu-e 
every time the plant is watered. Always give a good drainage, by laying 
in each pot a good portion of broken potsherds, as the least stagnation is 
always injmious, sometimes fatal ; therefore, never allow them to stand 
in the pans or feeders in which the pots are sometimes placed. Water 
very seldom, not more than twice a week when they are floweiing, and 
not so often at other times ; give very httle at a time, not more than will 
moisten the soil all over, paiticularly if the weather is not fine and sunny. 
About the middle of June, turn them out of doors into a situation where 
they will not be exposed to vdnds, but perfectly open to the rays of the 
mid-day sun. Place them on a board or floor of any kind, to prevent the 
worms from entering through the bottoms of the pots. This system of 
exposing them in summer gives them a check which seldom fails to pro- 
duce a good bloom. Whilst out of doors, they must not be allowed to 
receive the heavy dashing rains, or they will suffer, perhaps die, in con- 
sequence ; either a boai'ded roof, or other shelter, must be provided for 
them on such occasions. Also, if the pots stand on a floor of slates or flags, 
they should be partly plunged in moss ; as the sun, by heating the pots, 
sometimes bm'ns the roots of the plants. In September, take the plants 
into the greenhouse, and place them in a situation where they will receive 
plenty of hght and air during winter. Early in the spring, remove them 
to the stove in succession as they are required to bloom. ^lost of the 
species will flower very fine, without being placed out of doors at aU ; but 
by placing them out as above, the flowers will be much finer, and more 
abundant, than when grown regularly in the house : they may be in- 
creased by cuttings, seeds, and grafting." 



GENERAL TREATMENT WHEN IN THE HOUSE. 

Succulent plants, so far from requiring the temperature of a stove, as 
erroneously supposed by many, are most certainly much more injured by 
too high a temperature than by being kept too cool. If we except the 



182 



THE SUCCULENT HOUSE. 



genera Stapelia and EupTiorUa, and a few of the Cactem, all others are much 
better when kept in a cool, dry, any greenhouse, than anywhere else : 
nay, a cold pit, if not in a damp situation, will be a very proper habitation 
for many of them ; and not a few, particularly of the famihes Sempervi- 
vum and Mesemhryanthemum, stand in the open borders of our gardens 
during the most rigorous frosts Avith which we have of late years been 
visited, with the exception of the winter of 1837-8. 

Another very erroneous notion, which till of late has very generally 
prevailed, is, that succulents should be planted in lime rubbish, gravel, or 
similar porous matter, with a view to prevent them from growing too 
rapidly, and also, that they should scarcely have any water given to them. 
The truth of the matter is, that this singular and interesting tribe of 
plants have been long neglected in this country, and placed in situations in 
the greenhouse where little attention has been paid to them ; and many of 
them, notwithstanding this treatment, have continued to Uve thus dis- 
regarded and unnoticed, till their splendour, or the fragrance of their bloom, 
aiTested, for a time, the attention of the owner : then they may have been 
brought into a more favourable situation till their flowers had faded, when, 
for the most part, they were consigned again to theu* old situation. Plants 
requiring so Httle attention as this to keep them in existence, and the 
only fear of losing them being fi'om an excess of damp, led the indolent 
gardener to plant them where they were not hkely to suffer from this 
cause, and at the same time rid himself of the trouble of attending to 
them. Plants may exist for a long time under ven* bad treatment ; but 
plants so circumstanced cannot be expected to flower well, or to attain 
any very extraordinaiy habit, either of beauty or singulaiity. But the 
same species of plants, treated in a more rational and favourable manner, 
■svill develope all their beauties and singularities to us in return. 

Succulent plants, in general, do not require much water during winter, 
when they are in a dormant state ; but during spring and summer, when 
they are growing vigorously, they requu-e as large a share of that element 
as any other plants (not exactly aquatic). During winter, care must be 
taken that they are not over-watered, and also that the house they are 
grown in is water-tight, for many of the more dehcate would suffer if rain 
drops were to faU into their centre, and more particulai'ly those that are 
kept in a low temperature. A good way to supply many plants of this de- 
scription with water is, by standing the pots in pans of water ; but this 
is only to be understood as applicable to the most robust-growing sorts 
during spring and summer ; and to the more delicate ones occasionally. 
During spring and summer, they may be syringed over their tops once 



GENERAL TREATMENT. 



183 



or twice a-week ; but during autumn and winter, this should be dis- 
continued. 

Air cannot be too freely admitted to them at all seasons, both in winter 
and summer ; and dming the latter period, the side lights of the Succulent 
house, at least that portion of it dedicated to the families Sempervivumj 
Crasmlu, Mesemhryanthemuyn, SiC, should be altogether removed : that 
portion in which Sfapelia, CactecB, &c., are kept, should only be thus 
openly exposed in very warm days, but a partial degree of ventilation 
must be given them upon all fitting occasions. 

A watchful eye must be kept that the smaller and more delicate do not 
suffer from damp, and that cuttings of those apparently likely to die 
or become unsightly be put in, for many of the more curious are not 
long-hved. Frequent cleaning the smface of the mould in the pots ; 
examining them minutely for the detection of insects, which they are 
liable to, particularly the scale, white bug, and green fly; rubbing off 
the former with a sponge and soft soap, washing the second off with clear 
water applied by the engine, and using tobacco smoke, or Scotch snuff 
sprinkled over them, when damp from previous watering, will completely 
rid them of these enemies. 

There are two curious and often fatal diseases to which some succulent 
plants are subject, particularly the genus Opuntia, and some other of the 
Cactece ; and these are admirably described by M. Thiery de Menonville, 
who travelled, many years since, through the Spanish settlements of South 
America. These diseases are termed by him the gangrene and la dissolu- 
tion. The former of these is of frequent occurrence, beginning with a 
black spot, which spreads till the whole plant ultimately dies. The latter 
disease is very appropriately called la dissolution, and is much more serious 
in its effects than the former : it is described by the late eminent Sir 
James Edward Smith, in Introduction to Physiological and Systematic 
Botany," as follows : — This seems to be a sudden decay of the vital 
principle, Hke that produced in animals by Hghtning or strong electricity. 
In an hour's time, from some unknown cause, a joint, a whole branch, or 
sometimes an entire plant of the nopal (the Indian name for the Opuntia 
cochinillifera or Indian fig), changes from a state of apparent health to a 
state of putrefaction or dissolution. One minute its surface is verdant 
and shining ; the next it tm'ns yellow, and all its brilliancy is gone. On 
cutting into this substance, the inside is found to have lost all cohesion, 
being quite rotten. The only remedy in this case is speedy amputation 
below the diseased part." Both these diseases are not unfrequently ob- 
served in collections in this country, and if the former be not arrested in 



184 



THE SL'CCULEXT HOUSE. 



its progress by amputating the branch upon which it appears before the 
disease has extended too far, the consequence would be the loss of the 
plant in a day or two. 

Some of the continental cultivators of these plants have grown them to 
a large size within a veiy short space of time, excluding the air by 
placing a tall bell-glass over the plant, supplying it with abundance of 
water and heat in the stove, and also by placing them in a Tery warm 
hot-bed ; thus stimulated to the utmost extent, the plant swells out to a 
large size ; but care must be taken that this humidity be not carried too 
far, for fear of rotting the plant. 

In regard to temperature, most succulent plants will stand uninjured 
when the thermometer falls to forty-five degrees, or even lower, but 
many of them vnR also stand several degrees of frost with impunit}'. 
Excepting the Cactece, Sfapelia, and Euphorbia, all other succulents are 
rather injured by aitificial heat than benefited. They will stand any 
degree of sun heat, but fii'e heat is a very different thing. 

The late ^Ir. Haworth, in his Supplementum Plantaram Succulen- 
taiTim," speaking of the culture of succulent plants, transcribes the follow- 
ing passage from Miller, a passage which, he says, " is worthy of being 
recorded in letters of gold ; and more especially," he adds, (and we may 
add so also) " as the truth- it inculcates, or rather complains of, still 
continues to exist." The quotation alluded to is to the following efi*ect : 

At which time (October) you should remove them (the succidents) into 
the conservatory, placing them as near the windows as possible at first, 
letting them have as much free open air as the season will permit, by 
keeping the windows open whenever the weather is good. And now you 
must begin to abate your waterings, giving it to them sparingly ; but you 
slwuld not suffer the leaves to shrink for icant of moisture, which is 
another extreme some people run into for want of a httle observation ; 
for when they are suffered to shrink (not die gradually away) for 
want of sufficient moisture to keep their vessels disteiided, they are 
rendered incapable of discharging this moisture whenever they receive it 
again.''^ 

I humbly hope," adds Mr. Haworth, " this golden passage from our 
great horticulturist will have more effect over those who read it, than all 
my own more feeble pen has heretofore stated to the same effect. For, at 
this enhghtened period, it requires but a moderate share of philosophy 
to allow that au' and exercise, and a due supply of warmth and food, are 
all essential requisites towards the healthful support of every organised 
being, whether of the animal or vegetable kingdom. And air and the 



GENERAL TREATMENT. 



185 



rustling winds are the exercise of plants ; and humidity and water are at 
least the vehicles which convey their food ; and warmth the medium 
which adapts them to receive it in a salutary way ; although the degree 
of warmth actually requisite is as different for the different species as the 
different chmates over which the Creator has been pleased to distribute 
them, — by no means at random, but all in hanuoniously beautiful order. 
And those which it has pleased their great Architect to place in equinoctial 
latitudes appear to be more adapted to the reception of nutriment above 
ground, by absoi-ption from the air, in the dewy places of their nativity, 
than those whose absorbing orifices are less capaciously expanded in more 
temperate countries ; or in those still more chilly regions which approach 
the confines of perpetual snow. There the great business of nutrition 
appears to be almost wholly from the root. And hence, perhaps, the 
impatience which Alpine plants evince to heat, which actually exhausts 
and overpowers them. 

' Jehovah ! in sapientia ea fecisti.* " 



GENERAL TREATMENT WHEN OUT OF DOORS. 

All the strong-growing shrubby Mesembryanthema, CrassulcB, Aloes, 
Setnperviva, &c.,,' are benefited by being placed out of the house from 
the beginning of June tUl the middle of September. They should be 
placed on a floor of boards, pavement, or hard- rolled gravel, and 
in a situation as much exposed to the fidl sun as possible ; and if it 
can be so arranged conveniently, an awning should be placed over 
them in times of continued rain : they would derive benefit from such 
protection. 

The more common of the genus Mesemhryanthemum may be planted 
out in June, upon a warm, dry border, where they will flower beautifully 
all the summer, and some of them will stand the winter. Cuttings of such 
sorts should, however, be tak,en off in spring, from which a supply of young 
plants will be obtained to take their place in the Succident house in Sep- 
tember, when the collection is taken into the house. 

The hybrid and other free-flowering Cactece, when done flowering, should 
be taken out, and for a few days placed in an open shed or pit, where 
they can be partially shaded from the full sun ; afterv\'ards they should be 
placed in an exposed situation, similar to that chosen for the rest of the 
collection. Here they will remain during summer, by the end of which 



186 THE SUCCULENT HOUSE. 

their flower buds will be formed withui the branches, which would not be 
the case were they left in the house. 



SOIL. 

We have already observed that a light, rich, loamy soil is the best for 
most plants of this description. The free-flowering CactecR should be 
placed in the richest possible soil, but at the same time it must be 
capable of admitting the water to pass through it freely, and for that 
reason may have a portion of lime rubbish, broken pots, or small pieces 
of broken bricks mixed with it, to keep it open and porous. Poor, 
sandy soil should be discarded ; and even peat earth, although recom- 
mended by some cultivators, is not rich enough for these plants. 



SHIFTING OR POTTING. 

There are few species of succulents, until they have attained a 
pretty large size, but what will be the better for being examined at 
least once a-year. The most proper season for this operation is in 
spring, prior to their beginning to grow. Many may not require 
re-potting, particularly into larger pots, but all will be the better for 
being examined, were it only to see the state of their roots, and to 
regulate the di-aining should it be found to be faulty. The majority 
of these plants require pots less in size than that of other plants in 
general. They require to be thoroughly drained, as stagnant water at 
the root is very injurious to them. Most of the first seven sections 
of Mesemdryanthemuniy according to Haworth's arrangement, that 
is, from the species minutum to denticulatum^ as they stand in 
Loudon's " Hortus Britannicus," should be planted high in the pot, 
that is, elevated in the centre of the pot an inch or an inch and a 
half above the level of the top of the pot, as they are very impatient of 
much moisture. These, for a similar reason, should never be removed 
out of the house, especially as the sparrows are apt to eat them if so 
exposed. 

When it is desired to obtain large specimens of succulent plants, they 
must, like all other plants, be frequently shifted into larger pots, 
and suppUed with plenty of water in ' a rich soil. We have known 
Cereus speciosissirnus to make shoots six feet long in the course of 



HINTS TO PLANT COLLECTORS. 



187 



two seasons, by being planted out in a rich border. Of course 
such rapidity of growth is unfavourable to their flowering freely. 
Many do not shift or pot their succulents above once in two, three, 
or four years; niany kinds do not require it oftener, but they are 
the small and slow-growing kinds, such as most of the melon-shaped 
Cactece, &c. After most succulents have attained their full size, shifting 
may be dispensed with oftener than while grov^dng, for most of them 
flower best when they have ceased to grow rapidly. 



While revising the preceding pages for the press, we are in receipt of 
the following interesting information on the habits and cultivation of the 
CactecB from our respected friend Mr. Beaton, who, with his employer, Mr, 
Harris, of Kingsbury, has paid more than ordinary attention to the sub- 
ject. Mr. Hams is an enthusiastic patron of botanical pursuits, and has 
been some time engaged in forming a collection, not of lining species 
only, but also of dead specimens for his herbarium. 

In WTiting on the Cacti,^ says our correspondent, I hope you will 
record your dissent from those who consider the sections into which the 
old genus Cactus has been divided as distinct genera. Notliing can be 
more incorrect, and nothing tends more to mystify the writings of our 
best gardeners than thus follov^ng the dicta of the great men who have 
the lead in Botanical science ; a zoologist might as well attempt to divide 
the greyhound, bull-dog, or terrier, into distinct genera, as botanists to 
divide the Mammillaria and others from the Cactus. Yet, into this error 
Mr. Don has fallen {System of Botany, Vol. III. p. 157), when he describes 
the Mammillaria as destitute of a woody axis or central column. All the 
sections of the genus have not only a woody axis, but a medulliferous 
column inside their woody axis, like other exogenous plants. 

" This axis, however, is not formed during the first few years of their 
existence, and probably difl*erent species require diflerent periods to form 
it; while in its turn it is .not at first suppUed with its medulla or 
pith : both the woody axis and pith make their first appearance at the 
collar of the plant at the point where the roots start from the stem. As 
the axis increases it throws out fibres into all parts of the succulent por- 
tion of the plant, and is the channel through which the nourishment is 
supplied from the roots; and I am of opinion that the Melocactv^, Echino- 
cactuSj and Mammillaria v^dll not form roots from cuttings until they first 



188 



THE SUCCULENT HOUSE. 



form their woody axis : all the roots of these sections proceeding from 
the axis, while the Opuntia and Epiphyllum^ whose young shoots are 
analogous to leaves, throw out roots fi^om all parts of their surface." 

The following remarks from the same pen may be useful both to col- 
lector and cultivator of this interesting family. " In gathering the Cacti 
in their native wilds, the collector is often satisfied with pulling them up 
by main force, without being aware how shghtly they are attached to 
their central column : if the plant is firmly rooted, the fibres which con- 
nect the column with the succulent part of the plant are broken in the 
act of pulling them up, and the central column itself is often twisted or 
broken asunder. The effect of such violence is often the death of the 
plant, although it may appear in everj^ respect to be ahve and in a healthy 
state. 

^' Hitherto collectors have been satisfied with transmitting seeds or 
cuttings of cactaceous plants home ; but now that a taste for the cultiva- 
tion of this grotesque and interesting family is obtaining in this country, 
good specimens will be sought after, and the extreme danger of puUing 
them up by force cannot be too seriously impressed on the attention of 
collectors r in all cases, unless the plant be very small, the roots should 
be cut with a sharp instrument, and as far from the stem as circumstances 
will allow, but in no instance should they be twisted about. During last 
summer a fine collection was brought over from IMexico by a Frenchman, 
who lost some splendid specimens through his ignorance of this connection 
of the central column with the plant. Mr. Harris bought some of the best 
of the dead specimens for his cabinet, and very luckily I got seeds out of 
all of them, and thus preserved them to the country : the seedUngs under 
my care exceed ten thousand in number from this importation alone. In 
young seedlings, sow them in pure sand, keep them constantly moist, and 
transplant them as soon as you can get hold of them, in sand well drained : 
give as much heat and moisture as your means will allow, and keep up 
this stimulus till they have begun to form their woody centre, when they 
must be more sparingly watered. As a means of extending the cultivation 
of succulents in general, the hybridist should exercise his art. The Mesem- 
hryantJiema might be crossed till they could vie with the Cinerarice, and 
the Aloes tiH they surpass the GesnermJ^ 

We cannot sufficiently commend Mr. Harris for his great liberality in 
possessing himself of these splendid accessions to the Cacti already known , 
or Mr. Beaton for his zeal and intelhgence, displayed in obtaining the 
seeds from many of the dead species of the melon-shaped kinds. The 



HINTS TO PLANT COLLECTORS. 



189 



seeds of these are mostly imbedded in a soft downy matter, which is 
thrown up fi'om their top, even long after they are dead, and may also be 
discovered by cutting the plants transversely across ; but so far as we 
know, this is a discovery to the credit of which Mr. Harris and his 
gardener are alone entitled. Mr. Harris has in his herbarium one species, 
Cereus senilis^ measuring three feet in circumference, and by far the finest 
specimen ever brought to Europe, from which Mr. Beaton originated 
above one hundred seedlings by the above means. 



190 



SELECT LIST OF SUCCULENTS. 



YELLOW. 



Tree Hoiiseleek. {^empervivum ar- , 
boreum.) Flowers in ^larcli and j 
December, in sandy loam. Cut- i 
tin^s. 

Canary Houseleek. ( Semperviviim 
canariense.) Flowers in June and 
July, in sandy loam. Seeds. ' 

Glandulous-leaved Houseleek. {Sem- \ 
pervii-io/i gJandidosum.) Flowers iu ' 
]March aiid ]NIay, in sandy loam. | 
Cuttings. ' I 

Turfy Houseleek. {Semperviviim cte- \ 
spi'fosum.) Flowers in April and i 
September, in sandy loam. Cut- ' 
tinsfs. 

Bearded Houseleek. ( Semperviviim 
barbatum.) Flowers in July and Au- 
g"ust, in sandy loam. Cutting's. 

Smith's Houseleek. ( Semjjcrvivum 
Smith (i.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Golden Houseleek. ( Sempervirum 
aureum.) blowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Offsets and 
seeds. 

Table-sliaped Houseleek. {Semper- 
viviim tabulceforme. ) Flowers in 
July and August, in sandy loam. 
Offsets, produced by destroying the 
centre of the plant, 'by which ineans 
numerous offsets are' produced ; it 
also seeds freely. 

Twisted Houseleek. ( Semperviviim 
tortuosum.) Flowers in July and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings, 

Villous Houseleek. ( Semoervh-um \ 
viUosum.) Flowers in June and 
July, in sandy loam. Cuttings. ; 

Siiiall-studded ' Crassula. ( Crassula \ 
buUuIaia.) Flowers in August and \ 
September, in sandy loam. Cut- j 
tings. I 

Ciliated Crassula. {Crassula ciliafa.) ,• 
Flowers in July and August, in ! 
sandy loam. Cuttings. j 

Prince's Pachidendrcn. {PacJiiden- j 
dron principis.) Flovrers in ;!^Iarch I 



and Xovember, in sandy loam. Suck- 
ers. 

Hedgehog Pachidendron. {Pachiden- 
dron ferox.) Flowers in April and 
May, in sandy loam. Offsets, ob- 
tained by cutting off the head. 

Chinese Aloe. {Aloe cMnensis.) Flow- 
ers in July and August, in sandy 
loam. Suckers. 

Green Aloe. {Aloe virens.) Flowers 
in August and September, in sandy 
loam. Suckers. 

Tiger - chap Fig - ^larigold. {Mesem- 
bn/ant/iemum figrifiiim.) Flowers in 
September and Xovember, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings. 

Fi'agTant Fig-^Iarigold. {M. fragraujs.) 
Flowers in August and October, in 
sandy loam. Cuttinsrs. 

Great -'tlowered Fig - Marigold. (3/. 
gr audi flor urn.) Flowers In July, in 
sandy "loam. Cuttings. 

Tongue - shaped Fig - marigold. (J/. 
lingiueforme.) Flowers ^in March 
and Xovember, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Salm's Fig-Marigold. (3/. Salmii.) 
Flowers in September and Xovem- 
ber, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Various - leaved Fig - Marigold. ( J/. 
heferophvUum.) ^Flowers in Octo- 
ber and' Xovember, in sandy loam. 
Cuttings. 

Two - bunched Fig - :Marigold. {M, 
bigibberafu/u.) Flowers in August, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Two-tootlied Fig-Marigoki, (3/. bi- 
d en f arum.) llowers in August, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Dagger -formed Fig - Marigold. (3/. 
piigioniforme.) Fiowers in Jidy and 
September, in sandy loam. ' Cut- 
tings. 

Headed Fig-Marigold. (3/. capifatinn .) 
Flowers ^in July and September, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings and seeds. 



SELECT LIST OF SUCCrLEXTS, 



191 



Sliort - stemmed Fi? - Marig-old. (J/. 
hrevicaule.) Flowers in July and 
September, in sandy loam. ' Cut- 
tine's and seeds. 

Golden-tiowered Fig-Marigold. (J/. 
aureuni.) Flowers in March and 
October, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Orange-Howered Fig-Marigold. (J/. 
aurantunn.) Flowers in July and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Variable Fig-Marigold. (M. variabile.) 
Flowers in June and August, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Expanded-leaved Fig-Marigold. OI. 
expansion.) Flowers in July and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Bright Fig-Marigold. (M. yiitidum.) 
Flowers "in July and October, in 
sandy loam. Cu'ttiuofs. 

Brachiated Fig-Marigold. {M.hracMa- \ 



RE 

Sickle-leaved Rochea. {Rochea fal- 
cata.) Flowers in June and Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Mediate Kalosanthes. (Kaloso.nthes 
media.) Rowers in June and July, 
in sandy loam. Cuttiugs. 

Changeable Kalosanthes. {Kalosanthes 
versicolor.) Flowers in ]March and 
September, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

C\TLiose Kalosanthes. {Kalosanthes 

'cymosa.) Flowers in August, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Oblique-leaved Crassula. iCrassida 

ohliqua.) Flowers in April and May, 

in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Pretty Crassula. {Crassula pulchella.) 

Flowers in May, in sandy loam. 

Cuttings. 

Plaited Rhipidodendi'on, {Rhipido- 
dendron plicafile.) Flowers in June 
and July, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

African Pachidendron. {PacMdendron 
africamun.) Flowers in July, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings or otisets, 
obtained by cutting olf the head ; also 
by the leaf laid on the surface of the 
riould till it roots. 

Narrow-leaved Pachidendron. {Pachi- 
dendron angustifolitrrn.) Flowers in 
July and Au^ist, in sandy loam. 
Suckers. 

Dichotomous Aloe. {Aloe dichotoma.) 

Flowers in June and August, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Spike-liowered Aloe. {Aloe spicata.) 

Flowers in July and August, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Yellow-spined Aloe. {Aloe Jlavlspina.) 

Flowers in August, in sandv loam. 

Suckers. 



turn.) Flowers in June and August, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Salmon-coloured Fig-Marigold. (J/. 
salmoneum.) Flowers in August and 
October, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Pale-flowered Fig-Marigold. (J/, pal- 
lens.) Flowers in July and August, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Sunflower-like Fig - Marfgold. {M. 
helianthoides.) Flowers in August 
and October, in sandy loam. Seeds. 

Bracted Fig-Marigold. '(J/, bract eata.) 
Flowers in July and October, in 
sandy loam._ Cuttings. 

Small-yellow tig-Marigold. (J/. Jia- 
rurn') Flowers in August, in sandy- 
loam. Cuttings. 

Hedgehog Fig-Marigold. {M. echina- 
turn.) Flowers in July and October, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 



Distant Aloe. {Aloe distans.) Flowers 

in August, in sandy loam. ' Suckers. 
Glaucous Aloe. {Aloe glauca.) Flow- 
ers in January and September, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Fringe-leaved Aloe. {Aloe ciUaris.) 

Flowers in June and July, in sandy 

loam. Suckers. 
Soccotrine Aloe. (Aloe soccotrina.) 

Flowers in Februaiy and April, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Mitre - formed Aloe. ( Aloe mitrce- 

formis. ) Rowers in August, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Banded Gasteria. {Gasteriafasciata.) 

Flowers in June and July,' in sandy 

loam. Suckers. 
Dark Gasteria. {Gasteria niqricaris.) 

Flowers in June and July, in sandy 

loam. Suckers. 
Thick - leaved Gasteria. ( Gasteria 

crassifolia.) Flowers in June and 

July, in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Blunt-leaved Gasteria. {Gasteria ob- 

tusifolia. ) Flowers in June and 

July, in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Angled Gasteria. {Gasteria anqulata.) 

Flowers in March and Xovember, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Narrow-leaved Gasteria. {Gasteria 

anfiusti folia.) Flowers in :March and 

September, in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Smooth Gasteria. '{Gasteria hevia.) 

Flowers in ^March and September, 

in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Subverrucose Gasteria. {Gasteria sub- 

verrucosa.) Flowers in March and 

September, in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Shining Gasteria. (Gasteria nitida.) 

Flowers in July and August, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 



192 



THE SUCCULENT HOUSE. 



Triangular Gasteria. {Gasteria tri- 
gona.) Flowers in June and Au- 
g-ust, in sandy loam. Suckers. 

Cylindrical Fig-Marigold. {Mesembry- 
anthemum cylindricum.) Flowers in 
February and September, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings. 

Round-leaved Fig-Marigold. {M. tere- 
tifoUum.) Flowers in February and 
September, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Daisy-flowered Fig-Marigold. {M. bel- 
lidiflorum.) Flowers in June and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Great-acute-leaved Fi^-Marigold. (3/. 
acutum.) Flowers m April and No- 
vember, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Dotted-awl-leaved Fig-Marigold. {M. 
punctatum.) Flowers in April and 
November, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Slender - starry Fig - Marigold. ( M. 



gracile.) Flowers in August and 
November, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Rayed Fig-Marigold. {M. radiatum.) 
Flowers in August and November, 
in sandy loam. Cutting's. 

Compressed Fig-Marigold. {M. com- 
pressum.) Flowers in July and Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Short-leaved Fig-INIarigold. {M. brevi- 
foUum.) Flowers in July and Octo- 
ber, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Subglobose Fig-Marigold. (J/, sub- 
globosum.) Flowers in July and 
October, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Diminished Fig-Marigold. {M. diminu- 
tum.) Flowers in April, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings. 

Showy Epiphyllum. {Epipyllum spe- 
ciosum.) Flowers in June and July, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 



Jasmine - like Kalosanthes. ( Kalo- 
sanfhes jasminea.) Flowers in April 
and May, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Four - angled Crassula. ( Crass ula 
tetragona.) Flowers in August, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Biplanate Crassula. ( Crassula bi- 
planata.) Flowers in September, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Round - leaved Crassula. ( Crassula 
rotundifoUa.) Flowers in August 
and September, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Revolving Crassula. {Crassula re- 
volvens.) Flowers in August and 
September, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

White-flowered Crassula. (Crassula 

albiflora. ) Flowers in June and 

July, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Double convex Crassula. ( Crassula 

biconvexa.) Flowers in August, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Imbricated Crassula. {Crassula im- 

bricata.) Flowers in June and July, 

in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Small-rosy Crassula. {Crassula rosu- 

laris.) Flowers in July, in sandy 

loam. Cuttings. 
Magnol's Crassula. {Crassula Mag- 

noli.) Flowers in June and July. 

Cuttings. 

Bracelet-shaped Fig-Marigold. {Me- 
sembryanthemu77i moniliforme.) Flow- 
ers in March and April, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings. 

Tvv^in-shooted Fig-Marigold. {M. ge- 
minatum.) Flowers in June and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Pretty-white -flowered Fig - Marigold. 
{M. lepidum.) Flowers in August 



and September, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Clandestine Fig-Marigold. {M. clan- 
destinum. ) Flowers in May and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Lorate Fig-Marigold. (J/, loratum.) 
Flowers in July and August, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Skeleton - leaved Fig - Marigold. {M. 
anatomicum.) Flowers in July and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Shining Fig-Marigold. {31. spletidens.) 
Flowers in June and August, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Flexuose Fi^-Marigold. {M.flexuosum.) 
Flowers in July and August, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Umbellate-flowered Fig-Marigold. {M. 
umbelUflorum.) Flowers in August 
and September, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Night - flowering Fig - Marigold. {M. 
noctiflorum.) Flowers in June and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Long-cupped Fig-^Iarigold. {M. caly- 
cimmi.) Flowers in July and August, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Ciliated Fig-Marigold. {M. cUiatum.) 
Flowers in July and September, in 
s?jidy loam. Cuttings. 

Joint -flowering Fig - Marigold. {M. 
geniculiflorum.) Flowers m July and 
September, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Trailing Fig-Marigold. {M. humifu- 

sum.) Flowers in July and August, 

in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Small - flowered Fig - Marigold. (J/. 

parvifloruM.) Flowers in August, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 



SELECT LIST OF SUCCULENTS. 



193 



Crreat - flowering Cereus. ( Cereus 
grandiflorus.) Flowers in June and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Arched Cereus. ( Cereus arcuatus.) 
Flowers in INIay and June, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings. 



Triangular Cereus. {Cereus triangu- 
laris.) Flowers in July and August, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Hooker's Epipliyllum. {Epiphyllam 
Hookeri.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy loom. Cuttings, 



PINK. 



Branchy Crassula. {Crassula ramosa.) 
Flowers in July and August, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings. 

Arborescent Crassula. (Crassula ar- 
bor escens.) Flowers in May and June, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Heart - leaved Crassula. ( Crassula 
cordata.) Flowers in May and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Small-spined Aloe. {Aloe micracantha.) 
Flowers in July, in sandy loam. 
Cuttings. 

Variegated Aloe. ( Aloe variegata. ) 

Flowers in March and September, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Twin Fig-]Marigold. {Mesemhryantlie- 

mum geminatum.) Flowers in May, 

in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Twiggy Fig-Marigold. {M. sarmento- 

sum.) Flowers in April, in sandy 

loam. Cuttings. 
Robust Fig-Marigold. {M. validum.) 

Flowe.rs in ^lay and June, in sandy 

loam. Cuttings. 
SchoU's Fig-:slarigold. {M. Schollu.) 

Flowers in INIay and June, in sandy 

loam. Cuttings. 
Red-stalked Fig-3Iarigold. (M. ruhri- 

caule.) Flowers in February and 

December, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Polished Fig-Marigold. {M. Iceviga- 

tum.) Flowers in June, in sandy 

loam. Cuttings. 
Red-bordered Fig-Marigold. {M. ru- 

brocinctnm.) Flowers in June, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Ross's Fig-Marigold. ( M. Rossii. ) 

Flowers' in June, in sandy loam. 

Cuttings. 

Creeping Fi^-Marigold. {M. reptans.) 
Flowers m July and August, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Thick-i'eaved Fig-I^darigold. {M. cras- 
sifoUum.) Flowers in May and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Scissor-leaved Fig-Marigold. {M. forfi- 
catum.) Flowers in September and 
October, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Leafy Fig-Marigold. {M. foliosum.) 
Flowers in September, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings"^. 

Saw-keeled Fig-Marigold. {M. serra- 
tum.) Flowers in July and August, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Purple - sworded Fig - jMarigold. (.1/. 



gladiafum.) Flowers in June, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Various - petaled Fig - Mario-old. (3/. 
heterojjetalum.) Flowers m May and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Glaucous Fig-Marigold. (J/, glauci- 
num.) Flowers in July and August, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Changeable Fig-Marigold. {31. miifa- 
bile.) Flowers in July and Septem- 
ber, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Pretty Fig-^Iarigold. {M.pulchellum.) 
Flowers in INIay, in sandy loam. 
Cuttings. 

Lunate Fig-Marigold. {M. lunatum.) 
Flowers in July, in sandy loam. 
Cuttings. 

Clustered Fig-Marigold. {M. glomera- 
tutn.) Flowers iii June and August, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Changeable - colom-ed Fig - jMarigold. 
{M. versicolor.) Flowers in 3Iay 
and October, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Retroflexed Fig-IMarigold. {M. refro- 
flexum.) Flowers in May and Octo- 
ber, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Imbricating Fig-Marigold. {M. im- 
bricans.) Flowers in May and Octo- 
ber, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Many - flowered Fig - ;Marigold. (3/. 
polyantlion.) Flowers in^August, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Two-edged Fig-Marigold. {M.anceps.) 
Fiowers in September and October, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Bland Fig-Marigold. (J/, blandum.) 
Flowers in June, in sandy loam. 
Cuttings. 

Coral Fig-Marigold. {M. coraUimim.) 
Flowers in May and June, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings. 

Alton's Fig-Mafigold. (J/. Aifo?i?.) 
Flowers in June and October, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Heart-leaved Fig-?>iarigoid. {M. cordi- 
foUum.) Flowers in May and Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Bundle-flowered Fig-]\Iarigold. "( M. 
floribundum.) Flowers m May and 
October, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Crassula-iike Fig-Marigold. {M. cras- 
suloides.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 



o 



194 



THE SUCCULENT HOUSE. 



Rush-leaved Fig'-Marig'old. {M. jun- 
ceum.) Flowers in August and Oc- 
tober, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Slender-flowered Fig-Marigold. ( M. 
ienmflorum.) Flowers in July and 
November, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 



Star-bearing Fig-Marigold. (3/. steU 
Ugerum.) Flowers in May and Oc- 
tober, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Truncate Epiphyllum. ( Epiphyllum 
truncatum. ) Flowers in June, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 



PUR 

Purpurascent Aloe. ( Aloe purpu- 
rascens.) Flowers in July and Oc- 
tober, in sandy loam. Suckers. 

Oblique Fig-^NIarigold. (Mescmbn/an- 
themum ohUquum.) Flowers in Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Small-leaved Fig-Marigold. (J/, par- 



vi folium.) Flowers in August, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Hispid Fig-Marigold. (3/. Mspldum.) 

Flowers in May and October, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Sub-coinpressed Fig-Marigold. ( 3/. 

subcompressum.) Flowers"in July and 

August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 



.SCARLET. 



Perfoliate Rochea. {Rocheaperfoliata.) 

Flowers in July and August, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Scarlet Kalosantlies. ( KaJosanthes 

coccinea.) Flowers in June and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Small scarlet Crassula. {Crassida coc- 

cinella.) Flowers in July, in sandy 

loam. Cuttings. 
AVliite-spined Aloe. {Aloe alhispina.) 

Flowers in June and July, in sandy 

loam. Suckers. 
Lined Aloe. {Aloe Uneata.) Fiowers 

in August, in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Panicled Aloe. ( Aloe jjaniculata. ) 

Flowers in July, in sandy loam. 

Suckers. 

Suberect Aloe. ( Aloe suberecta. ) 

Flowers in IMarch and June, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Fair Gasteria. {Gasferia jmlchra.) 

Flowers in June and x\ugust, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Painted Gasteria. ( Gasteria plcta.) 

Flowers in July and August, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Beautiful Gasteria. ( Gasteria for- 

mosa. ) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Netted Gasteria. {Gasteria retata.) 

Fiowers in July and' August, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Sulcated Gasteria. {Gasteria sulcata.) 

Flowers in July and August, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Ridged Gasteria. {Gasteria strigata.) 

Flowers in July and August, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Lively - spotted Gasteria. ( Gasteria 

l^tijmnctata.) Flowers in July and 

August, in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Shining Gasteria. {Gasteria nitans.) 



Flowers in July and August, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Lovely' Gasteria. {Gasteria renusta.^ 

Flowers in July and August, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Many - dotted Gasteria. ( Gasteria 

pliiripunctata.) Flowers in July and 

August, in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Smeared Gasteria. {Gasteria linita.) 

Flowers in July and August, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Scarlet-flowered Fig-Marigold. ( Me- 

semhriianthemum cocciueum.) Flow- 
ers in*^May and September, in sandy 

loam. Cuttings. 
Slender - leaved" Fig - Marigold. (3/. 

tenidfoliKm.) Flowers in June and 

September, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Specious Fig-Marigoid. (3/. specio- 

sum.) Flowers in May and October, 

in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Glittering- Fig-Marigold. ^{M.micans.) 

Flowers in" May" and October, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Lance's Cereus. {Cerem Lanceanus.) 

Flowers in April and June, in sandy 

loam. Cuttings. 
Scarlet Cereus." {Cereus coccineus.) 

Flowers in ]\ray and June, in sandy 

loam. Cuttings. 
Jenkin son's hybrid Epiphyllum. 

EpiphjiUum Je'uMnsoni.) Flowers in 

Julv and Aug-ust, in sandy loam. 

Cuttina-s. 

:\Iakoy°s^ hybrid Epiphyllum. {Epi- 
pJuiUum 'Makoiji.) Flowers in July 
and Auo-ust, in sandv loam. Cut- 
tino-s. 

Smith's hybrid Epiphyllum. {Epi- 
plii/Uum ^mit/iii.) Flowers in Aup^ust 
and September, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 



SELECT LIST OF SUCCULEXTS. 



195 



Vande's Hybrid Epiphylluin. {Ejyi- \ 

phylliim Vandesi.) Flowers in Au- j 

srust and September, in sandy loam, j 

Cutting-s. i 

Kiard's ^Hybrid Epiphyllum. (Epi- \ 

phyllum KiardL) Flovrers in July | 

and August, in sandy loam. Cut;- j 

tings. I 



Ackerman's Epiphyllum. (Epiphi/llum 
Acliermanni.) Flowers in July and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Scarlet Epiphyllum. {EpiphyUum coc- 
cineum.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 



Bastard African Pachidendi'on. {PacM- \ 

dendron pseudo-africamnn.) Flowers \ 

in March and November, in sandy \ 

loam. Suckers. ' | 

Above-smooth Pachidendron. {PacM- ' 

dendron superheve.) Flowers in July j 

and August , in sandy loam. Suckers'. : 

Slender .\loe.' {Aloe 'gracUk.) Flow- \ 

ers in June and July, in sandy loam. | 

Suckers. " ' j 

Yellow - spined Aloe. {Aloe xantha- 
cantha.) Flowers in June, in sandy 

loam. Suckers. I 

Flat-leaved Aloe. ( Aloe depressa. ) j 

Flowers in August, in sandy loam. | 

Suckers. ' | 

Short-leaved Aloe. {Aloe hrevifoUa.) \ 

Rowers in June and July, in sandy ; 

loam. Suckers. ' I 

Prohferous Aloe. {Aloe proUfera.) 
Flowers in March and June, in sandy 
loam. Suckers. 

White-edged Aloe. {Aloe alhocincta.) 
Flowers in June, in sandy loam. 
Suckers. 



GE. 

Acuminate Aloe. {Aloe acuminata.) 
Flowers in ]\Iarch and May, in sandy 
loam. Suckers. 

Humble Aloe. {Aloe humilis.) Flow- 
ers in March and June, in sandy 
loam. Suckers. 

Glaucous-leaved Fig-Marigold. {Me- 
semhryantliemum glauciun.) Flowers 
in June and July, in sandy loam. 
Cuttings. 

Two-coloured Fig-Marigold. (If. hi- 

colorion.) Flowers in^'May and Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Unequal-cupped Fig-Marigold. 3/. 
incequole. ) Rowers in May and 
September, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Tile-coloured Fig-Marigold. (J/. tes- 
t ace a in.) Flowers in August and 
September, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Tuberous-rooted Fig-^Iarigold. ( J/. 
tuber osiun.) Flowers in June and 
October, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 



Neat Haworthia. ( HaicortMa con- 
cinna.) Flowers in July and Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam. 'Suckers. 

Heart-leaved Haworthia. {Hau:orfMa 
cordifoUa.) Flowers in May and 
July, in sandy loam. Suckers. 

Twisted Haworthia. {Haworthia tor- 
tuom.) Flowers in May and Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam. 'Suckers. 

Shining Haworthia. (Haworthia ni- 
tida.) Flowers in July, in sandy 
loam. Suckers. 

Expanded Haworthia. ( Haworthia 
e.rpa}isa.) Flowers in July and No- 
vember, in sandv loam. Suckers'. 

Hybrid Haworthia. {Haworthia hy- 
brid a.) Flowers in June and July, 
in sandy loam. Suckers. 

Many-sided Haworthia. {Haworthia 
nudtifaria.) Flowers in June and 
July, in sandv loam. Suckers. 

Papillose Haworthia. ( Haworthia 
papulosa. ) Flowers in Mav and 
Auofast, in sandv loam. Suckers. 

Erect-pearl Hawo'rthia. {Haworthia 



j erecta. ) Flowers in August, in 
sandy loam. Suckers. 

' Half-smoothed Haworthia. {Haworthia 
simiglabrata.) Flowers in May and 
August, in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Attenuated - pearl Haworthia. {Ha- 
worthia attenua^a.) Flowers in May 
and August, in sandy loam. Suckers* 
Reinwart'S -pearl Haworthia. {Ha- 

i worthia Rein wart ii. ) Rowers in 
June and July, in sandy loam. 

i Suckers. 

' Virescent Haworthia. ( Haworthia 
j I'irescens.) Flowers in August and 
! September, in sandy loam. Suckers. 

Cobweb-like Haworthia. {Haworthia 
i arachnoides.) Flowers in August, 
: in sandv loam. Suckers. 
; Transparent Haworthia. {Haworthia 
I translucens.) Flowers in May and 
Ausrust, in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Bristle-leaved Haworthia. {Haworthia 
setata.) Rowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Suckers. 

o 2 



196 



THE SUCCULENT HOUSE. 



Pale-green Haworthia. (Haworthia 

pallida.) Flowers in June and July, 

in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Dark-^reen Haworthia. {Haworthia 

atrovirens. ) Rowers in May, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Green-spined Hawortliia. (Haworthia 

chloracantha.) Flowers in August, 

in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Nari'ow - leaved Haworthia. ( Ha- 
worthia angustifolia.) Flowers in 

June, in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Boat-formed Haworthia. {Haworthia 

cymhiformis.) Flowers in May and 

August, in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Awned Haworthia. {Haworthia aris- 

tata.) Rowers in July, in sandy 

loam. Suckers. 
Cuspidate Haworthia. ( Haworthia 

cuspidata.) Flowers in August, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Denticulate Haworthia. {Haworthia 

denticidata.) Flowers in August, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Great-spiral Apicra. {Apicra spiralis.) 



Flowers in August and September^ 

in sandy loam. ^ Suckers. 
Little-blis'tered Apicra. (Apicra bui- 

lulata. ) Flowers in August, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Five -angled Apicra. (Apicra pen- 

tagona.) Flowers in June and July, 

in sandy loam. Suckers. 
Rough Apicra. ( Apicra aspera. ) 

Flowers in ApiH and May, in sandy 

loam. Suckers. 
Double - keeled Apicra. (Apicra bi- 

carinata. ) Flowers in June, in 

sandy loam. Suckers. 
Rough-black Apicra. (Apicra nigra.) 

Flowers in July, in sandy loam. 

Suckers. 

Imbricated Apicra. ( Apicra imbri- 
cata.) Rowers in June and July, in 
sandy loam. Suckers. 

Small-leafy Apicra. (Apicra foliosa.) 
Rowers' in June and August, in 
sandy loam. Suckers. 

Rigid Apicra. (Apicra rigida.) Row- 
ers in April and May, in" sandy loam. 
Suckers. 



CRIMSON. 

ShOT^-iest Cereus. (Cereus speciosissimns.) Rowers in July, in sandy loam. 

Cuttings. 



WHITE AND GREEN. 



Napoleon's Cereus. (Cereus Xapoleo?iis.) Rowers in Judy and August, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings. 



198 



THE MIXED GREENHOUSE. 



or two examples calculated for general purposes. The most suitable 
description of greenhouse which is to stand on a lawn, in the flower garden, 
as a detached object, is one w^hose sides and ends are glazed, because, 
if otherwise constructed, the deformities of the back would be with 
difficulty concealed, and it would under all circumstances have a very bad 
effect. A greenhouse constructed upon a plan similar to that shoT\'n in 
the annexed diagram would be an elegant object, seen from any part 




FORM OF GREENHOUSE. 



199 



of the garden. The form, as shown in the ground plan, a, to be a 
lengthened parallelogram, having the corners cut off. The elevation, as 
shown at will be hght and elegant, and the cross section at c will 
show the internal arrangement, viz., the stage for the plants, surrounded 
by a walk on all sides, and heated by hot water, or smoke flues, as at 
a fl, the pipes or flues carried round the house under the pavement of the 
footpath, and the heat to ascend through ventilators fixed in the floor, by 
which means it can be retained in or allowed to ascend from the chamber 
in which the pipes or flues are placed. The front and end lights of this 
house to be taken away at pleasure, and two of the uppermost tier of the 
roof sashes made moveable, so as to sHde down for the purpose of venti- 
lation. 

The most common form and arrangement of the best greenhouses which 
are built against walls, is that of the annexed figure, and these answer 




every purpose of cultivation. The arrangement of such a house is this : — 
the roof is composed of two hghts, and is supported by cast-iron uprights, 
a, placed under every ' second rafter, and the intermediate rafter is 
supported by means of a semicircular iron bar, which, springing frojn 



200 



THE MIXED GREENHOUSE. 



the upright bar on each side, passes close under it, and indeed is screwed 
to it, by which means the whole roof is tied together, and scope afforded 
for the training of climbing plants to the bars. The stage, ^, is in the 
middle of the house, allomng a footpath all round, and the heat is com- 
municated by means of the flues c, which pass down the front and return 
along the back. Shelves are fixed against the back wall d for holding 
plants in a state of rest, that they may be kept dry, and a small shelf, c, is 
also placed in front, immediately under the bottom of the rafters, for the 
reception of small, young, or delicate plants, particularly during winter. 
Over the front flue is a trellis-table, also for small plants and such as 
require abundance of air and light. 

Many fantastic and badly arranged greenhouses have been erected, andy 
as it would appear, for no other purpose than that of creating forms that 
imagination only can approve of, and to have a house different from all 
others, and too often contrary to both reason and good taste. Mcol, a 
garden architect of some pretensions, appears to have understood the 
rationale of building greenhouses upon very judicious principles. He 
agrees with us that a house to stand detached from other buildings 
should be of glass on all sides. " It may be a circular, oval, hexagonal, 
octagonal, or with two straight sides and circular ends, which,'' he 
thinks, the best form of any : the next best an octagon, whose sides 
are not equal, but with two opposite longer sides, and six shorter sides> 
In either of these last-mentioned forms, the stages and plants may,'^ 
at least in his mind, " be more tastefully an-anged than in any other. 
Granting either of these cases, the house should be about thirty-six or 
forty feet long, eighteen or twenty feet wide, and ten, or at most twelve, 
feet high, above a level line for its floor. The parapet aU round to be a 
foot or fifteen inches high, and the upright glasses placed on it four, or 
four and a half feet at most ; for it is important, for the sake of the finer 
kinds of plants,, and in order to have aU kinds grow bushy, and flower 
while young and small, to keep the roof glasses as low as possible, just 
allowing suflicient head room for the tallest person when walking in the 
alleys. The furnace and stock-hole may be placed at either end, or at 
either side, as may be most convenient ; and they should be sunk under 
ground and concealed. The flues to be constructed should run parallel to, 
and be separated fi'om the parapet by a three-inch cavity; its surface 
being level with the top of the parapet, and being cribtrellised for heaths^ 
or other rare plants. A walk thirty or thirty- six inches broad to be con- 
ducted all round next the flues, within which should be placed the stages 
for the more common and the taller plants, being raised in the middle and 



FORM OF GREENHOUSE. 



201 



falling to either side or end, corresponding with the glasses, but of course 
not so steep. A row of columns should be placed in the centre, in order 
to support the ridge of the roof, to which chmbing plants may be trained 
in various forms, and may be hung in festoons from column to column, 
or otherwise, as may be dictated by fancy. The front of the stage all 
round should be elevated about eighteen or twenty inches above the walk, 
in order to raise the whole of the plants placed on it sufficiently near 
the glass. The aspect of such a house should be towards the south, that 
is to say, it should stretch from east to west, or as nearly so as circum- 
stances will admit. It may have an entrance at the south side, or one at 
either end, as shall be most convenient and suitable. If a greenhouse 
must necessarily be attached to a wall or other building, it might be con- 
structed very much as above, with the difference only of having one of 
the ends, as it were, cut off, in which case it should be placed with its 
circular end south, or towards that point, and the sides pointing east and 
west. This I should consider," says this intelligent author, ''as the 
second best constructed greenhouse, and in which, excepting in the above 
described house, the plants would enjoy the fuUest shai'e of sun and 
light.' ^ In regard to the space that one well-directed fire, whether ap- 
pHed through smoke-flues or hot water, wiU heat sufficiently for the purpose 
of the greenhouse, we may state that from various experiments it appears 
that from four to five thousand cubic feet of air, that is, of the internal 
capacity of a greenhouse, may be completely heated by one fire. 




Greenhouses in which a miscellaneous collection of plants are to be 
cultivated, may be, as we have already observed, of various forms and 



202 



THE MIXED GREENHOUSE. 



constructions. The following description and accompanying diagram 
will pretty well elucidate a plant structure, combining the style of the 
conservatory with that of the greenhouse : such a one exists in the garden 
of the late Sir Robert Preston, of Valleyfield, in Perthshire ; the chief 
advantages of which are, that the plants are placed upon stages of an 
angular form, and are placed so as to intersect each other, yet allo^^-ing 
sufficient space for a person to walk betw een them, either to \iew or to 
w^ater the plants. By this mode of arrangement it will be seen, that a 
greater surface is exposed to the light and air than in the usual form of 
stages and mode of arrangement, and as the house fronts the south, there 
is no part of these stages that does not enjoy its proper share of the sun 
and air. 



GENERAL TREATMENT OF MISCELLANEOUS GREENHOUSE PLANTS 
WHILE YOUNG. 

Of the plants that form the majority of those genera enumerated at 
the beginning of this article, many of theni seed freely, and may be in 
that way readily propagated : others strike by cuttings, by the means 
most generally in use, and a few are propagated by other means, which 
will be noticed under their respective heads. 

To propagate greenhouse exotics upon a large scale requu'cs a house 
to be set apart for the express purpose, and nursemnen have in general 
such a house. The great utility of such an arrangement is to have an 
atmosphere created for the purpose, in which the greatest uniformity of 
temperature and humidity can be attained. Propagation upon a more 
limited scale may be successfully carried on in a close frame or pit, and 
upon the smallest scale of all by placing one or more hand-glasses in a 
convenient part of the greenhouse, under which the pots in which the 
cuttings are planted should be placed. 

PROPAGATION BY SEEDS. 

We have already remarked, when treating of bulbous plants, that seeds 
ripened before Midsummer may be sown immediately, and will, in most 
cases, produce plants strong enough to stand the succeeding winter ; but 
such as ripen after that period had better be reserved till spring, and 
sown in February or March. 



PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 



203 



In well-drained pots filled with peat and loamy soil, the majority of 
greenhouse plants may be sown, covering them in proportion to the size 
of the seeds ; and if the quantity to be sown be small, two, three, or four 
sorts may be sown in one pot, divided in proportions for them. In such 
cases care must be taken that each be labelled properly ; and the best way 
is, when more than one sort is sown, to place the labels in the centre of 
the pot with the names or numbers facing outwards. ^Yhen the seeds 
are sown they should be watered with the finest rose-watering pot, and 
placed in a cool, rather shaded part of the greenhouse, or cold pit, and 
attended to in respect to regular watering and weeding. 



PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 



Most greenhouse plants of the genera enumerated at the beginning of 
this article may be increased by this means. The best time for this pur- 
pose is that w^hen the plants are in a proper state, either in respect to 
ripened wood, young wood, or wood of an intermediate state, for in all 
these stages of growth is it used for different plants. As it is of some 
importance that propagation be commenced as early in the season as pos- 
sible, because cuttings do not succeed so weU during the heat of summer 
as in the spring months, it may be necessary in many cases, where young 
wood is required for this purpose, and where it does not exist on the plant 
sufficiently early, to place those from which the cuttings are to be taken 
in the stove, hot-bed, frame, or other warm situation, for a week or two 
prior to the time of taking them off, which ranges from the end of 
February till the end of April. In situations where circumstances will 
not admit of forwarding the plants with heat, then the season of taking 
off the cuttings must be made subordinate to it, that is, they are to be 
taken off when they naturally amve at a proper size : of course the suc- 
cess will be in proportion. May and June will, therefore, be the time for 
propagating by this latter method, for by that period the plants will have 
made wood naturally fit for the purpose. Pots for cuttings should be 
well drained, and filled as near the surface wdth peat and loam as it is 
calculated the cuttings will be inserted, or rather a little deeper. For it 
is of importance to almost all these plants to be struck in pure sand, 
but that the roots when they have begun to form should have a soil more 
congenial to their nature to live in ; when this is not attended to, many 
cuttings after they have struck root actually die off from want of suste- 
nance ; and to guard against this many cultivators take the cuttings out 



204 



THE MIXED GREENHOUSE. 



of the sand altogether when they have nearly rooted, and plant them in 
soil natural to the plant. The sand being properly moistened with water, 
and pressed tight down in the pot and made as level on the surface as 
possible, is then ready for the reception of the cuttings. 

In preparing the cuttings, much depends on the habits of the plants, 
as some require to be of greater length than others, vaning from half 
an inch to three or four inches in this respect. As a rule from which 
there are very few exceptions, we may say that most cuttings should be 
taken off at their second, third, or fomth joint from the top, and that the 
base of the cutting be exactly under one of these joints. No more leaves 
should be taken off than would be buried in the sand, and these should 
be cut closely off. with a sharp knife ; but care must also be taken that the 
stem be not injured in the operation. It was an old and very erroneous 
practice, and one which no sensible cultivator wiU now foUow, to cut off 
more or less of all the leaves of cuttings. Nothing could be worse than 
this, because by so doing the respu-ation of the cutting was destroyed, 
and with it to a great extent the chance of success in propagating it. 

When the cuttings are planted and watered they should be set in the pro- 
pagation-house, frame, or under the hand-glasses, as above recommended. 
If in a properly managed propagating-house, bell-glasses wiU be seldom 
necessarj^, nor tnUI they either in a close pit or frame ; but in all situa- 
tions where the air has full action round them, then glasses are indis- 
pensably necessary. Some cultivators place most of their greenhouse 
cuttings in a cool place to root, while others are equally successful by 
placing most of them in a mild bottom heat. The advantage of the 
former is, that it is more economical and convenient ; and of the latter 
that it is^the most expeditious, and the merits of both are just in proportion 
to the attention that is paid to making and planting the cuttings pro- 
perly, watering, shading, and hardening them off when rooted. The 
back or front of a common cucumber frame is an excellent place for 
striking cuttings in of most of these species when heat is to be applied ; 
but both in this case and also in that when heat is dispensed with, great 
care must be taken that damp be as much as possible excluded ; and 
this is only to be effected by a daily examination of them, and by keep- 
ing the glasses clean and dry, and removing decayed leaves when they 
appear. 

Cuttings put in in February, March, or April vrill in most cases, if soft- 
wooded plants, be rooted in April, May, and June, and fit to be potted off 
into small pots singly. The hard- wooded cuttings put in at the same periods 
will be longer in attaining that state, but will be sufficiently so by the 



PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS, 



205 



end of summer, and all fully established to stand the winter in the green- 
house. Some cuttings put in late in summer, and some even of those put 
in late in spring, may not root dming the season : these should be kept 
during the winter in a diT airy place in the greenhouse, for most of them 
will root and grow freely on the commencement of spring. 

The article Propagation by Cuttings in the Ency. of Gard., p. 659, 
is written in a manner so consistently philosophical, that we cannot refrain 
from making the following quotarion : — The inseition of cuttings may 
seem an easy matter, and none but a practical cultivator would imagine 
that there could be any difference in the growth between cuttings in- 
serted in the middle of a pot and those inseited at its edges. Yet such 
is actually the case ; and some sorts of trees, as the orange, Ceratonia^ 
&c., if inserted in a mere mass of earth, will hardly, if at all, throw out 
roots, while, if they are inseited in sand, or in earth at the sides of the 
pots, so as to touch the pot in their whole length, they seldom fail in 
becoming rooted plants. 

" The management of cuttings after they are planted depends on the 
general principle, that when life is weak all excesses of exterior agency 
must have a tendency to render it extinct. No cuttings require to be 
planted deep, though such as are large ought to be inserted deeper than 
those that are small. In the case of evergreens, the leaves should be 
kept from touching the soil, otherwise they will damp or rot off; and in 
the case of tubular-stalked plants, which are in general not very easily 
struck, owing to the water lodging in the tube, and rotting the cutting, 
both ends may in some cases (as in common honeysuckles; be advan- 
tageously inserted in the soil, as, besides a greater certainty of success, 
there is a chance that two plants may be produced. Too much hght, 
air, water, heat, or cold, are alike injmious. To guard against these 
extremes in tender sorts, the best means hitheito de\-ised is that of 
enclosing an atmosphere over the cuttings by means of a hand or bell 
glass, according to their dehcacy. This preserves a uniform stillness and 
moisture of atmosphere. Immersing the pot in earth (if the cuttings are 
in pots) has a tendency to presers'e a steady, uniform degree of moisture 
at the roots, and shading, or. planting the cuttings, if in the open air, in 
a shady situation, prevents the bad effects of an excess of hght. The 
only method of regulating the heat is by double or single coverings of 
glass, or mats, or both. A hand-glass placed over a bell-glass Avill 
presers'e, in a shady situation, a very constant degree of heat. Wliat 
the degree of heat ought to be is generally decided by that which is 
requisite for the mother plant. AVhatever degree of heat is natural to 



206 



THE MIXED GREENHOUSE. 



the mother plant when in a gi'owing state will, in general, be most 
favourable for the growth of the cuttings. There are, however, some 
variations, amounting nearly, but not quite, to exceptions. Most species 
of Erica, Georgina (Dahlia), and Pelargonium, strike better when sup- 
plied with rather more heat than is requisite for the growth of these 
plants in greenhouses. The Myrtle tribe and CameUias require rather 
less, and in general it may be observed, that to give a lesser portion of 
heat, and of every thing else proper for plants in their rooted and grow- 
ing state, is the safest conduct in respect to cuttings of hgneous plants. 
Cuttings of deciduous hardy trees taken oif in autumn should not, of 
course, be put into heat till spring, but should be kept doimant, hke the 
mother tree." 

Newly potted off cuttings, which by the way should be put into very 
small pots, should be carefully shaded, and not too soon exposed to the 
air ; those that are drawn or have run up tall or weak, should be topped, 
that they may begin to grow stocky, which if neglected at the beginning 
cannot be well rectified afterwards. Occasional shiftings will be neces- 
sary as they advance in growth, but this can only be correctly determined 
by frequently examining the state of their roots, by turning them out of 
the pots. 



GENERAL TREATMENT OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS WHEN OUT OF DOORS. 

The majority of the genera which we have classed under the above 
head may with perfect safety be placed in the open air from the middle of 
June till the earher part of September. The advantage they derive from 
this mode of cultm-e is, that they can enjoy a greater share of room, air, 
light, and the genial rains and dews of summer. There are a few genera, 
however, in our enumeration, that will be better kept in the house during 
the whole season, and these are Pimelea^ Protea, Chironia, Roella, Antho- 
cercis, Clerodmdron, and Lechenaultia. The situation best adapted for 
the summer residence of greenhouse plants is one that is dry, not over 
shaded, and sheltered from the winds. A dry compost floor of gravel or 
coal ashes is the best to stand them on, but they should not be plunged in 
any medium excepting either coarse stony gravel, or various species of 
moss, either of which T^lll admit of the superfluous water passing off 
through them, which plunging in the ground would not do. Besides, if 
such plants were plimged in the ground, their roots would escape through 
the bottom of the pots and shoot downwards, thus causing an exceedincr 



GENERAL TREATMENT. 



207 



grossness of character in the plant, which would be any thing but desir- 
able. When these plants are placed out they should be secui'ed to laths, 
cords, or wires, fastened so that the plants may be indiyidually attached 
to them to prevent their being blown down or broken. Regularity in 
watering should be attended to, and during the hottest weather scarcely 
too much can be given to them at the roots, and occasionally a slight 
syringing may be applied over their tops, to moisten, refresh, and clean 
the foliage and branches. 

Sometimes greenhouse plants are set or plunged during summer in 
the borders of the flower-garden, and sometimes in the shrubbery, or as 
single specimens on the lawn. The objection to the two former modes is, 
that they cannot from their limited number and want of size produce any 
extra effect in these situations, and indeed in good taste they cannot be 
said to be in character or keeping vdth the foliage and forms around them. 
Fine specimens of large grown exotics may be admissible on the lawn, 
because, like vases, m^ns, statues, &c., these are evidently placed there as 
individual ornaments of decoration. 

Worms are often very troublesome gnd ^e^^en, injurious to exotics when 
set out of doors ; they may oe'' conipleieS p:jev'3nied ,or destroyed by 
watering the ground on ^Jiiclj the plants are placed befor^^ they are brought 
out, and occasionally ?fterwards. , Neitlier vrill the ^most delicate exotic 
suffer from the samu apphcation being made it^ locts. 



GENERAL TREATMENT Oy G:^EENxIO^SE ''LA^IS WHES" IN THE HOUSE. 

From the middle of September till the end of October is the proper 
time for taking in exotic plants, but of course this depends much upon 
the season ; in fine diy autumns they may be kept out till the end of 
October, while in wet, cold ones they should be all housed by the end of 
September. Of course they need not all be taken in at the same time ; 
the more tender and soft-wooded first, and the more robust and hard- 
wooded ones last of all. 

Previous to taking the plants into the house, the necessary repairs, 
such as painting, repairing the glass, cleaning the flues when they are used, 
&c., should be finished. The plants should then be gone over and care- 
fully examined to see that the drainage is in a proper state, which is done 
by examining the holes in the bottom or sides of the pots, and taking away 
any mould or filth that may have accumulated in them, or by turning them 
out, which can readily be done, particularly with the smaller sized ones. 



208 



THE MIXED GREEXHOUSE. 



The surface of the mould should be regulated, cleared of moss or -^veeds, 
and a fresh top surface laid over it. The pots should be all well 
cleaned on the outside, even by Tvashing, and the plants fresh staked, 
tied in, and pruned of luxuriant or straggling branches. When this is 
completed, they may be taken in and arranged upon the stages, but set 
as Avide apart as possible, so that the air may circulate freely among 
them. 

The front lights, when they have been removed from the greenhouse, 
should not be for a few weeks fixed in their places, as it is an object of much 
consequence that as great a supply of air as can be admitted be allowed 
to circulate through them. It is seldom that the frosts of the early part 
of autumn are so severe as to injure greenhouse plants not immediately 
exposed to their Veitical effect. By the middle of November, unless un- 
usually severe fi'ost occur, the front and end sashes may be replaced, and 
ventilation carried on by the usual means of opening and shutting them 
morning and evening. What gardeners usually call ripening the wood, 
that is, inducing a habit of close, short jointed branches to form, but not 
too luxuriant ones, should be artterded to, and wliich is, as far as regards 
the sort of pb.nrs nhder coi^jric^eratlon, easily- effected by shortening the 
sti'ong brpnches to cause them to send oiu m^ny smaller ones, and by 
allov^ing them plenty of mom to stand on, as well as abundance of air 
when first taken into the house. Ey getting plants into this habit, they 
will fit\ref much finer, 'be leSs ' Uable" to sustair fr.jury during winter, 
and be general appearance much superior to rhose which are allowed 
to grow in a rambling and'"la-aij'ikiit mannd:^. " 

Damp must be ixpelled b^ occai«;ioKaI fires, to be appUed during the 
day when ventilation can be fully used, and frost by the same means 
during night. We have elsewhere observed that these plants are oftener 
injured by having too much fire heat given them than by a want of it. 
Few greenhouse plants will suffer from cold in a well-glazed house until 
the the-rmometer fail to about thiity-seven degrees, and never should the 
temperatm-e be raised above forty-eight degrees by artificial means. But 
in ail greenhouses, if this temperatm*e can be kept up without fire heat, by 
means of covering, &c., so much the better. 

Plants when first brought into the house should have abundance of 
water, as they are then deprived of the humidity that they would absorb 
from the damp ground they stand on during summer, and also of the 
dews at night and occasional showers. But this element should be 
gradually withdrawn from them afterwards, and no more given them 
dming winter than to keep them in good health. All imnecessary waste 



GEXEEAL TREATMEXT. 



209 



of water, either in the pots or by being spilt on the floor, should be 
guarded against, as it has a great tendency to create damp, which, settling 
on the leaves, would be very injurious to them, and cause many of them 
to fall off, and endanger most of the herbaceous and soft-wooded sorts, 
which are hable under all cases to rot off. All dead leaves should be 
pieked off' as they appear, and the plants often turned, so that all sides of 
them may enjoy an equal share of hght. 

Towards spring the plants should be all gone over, suppoiting such as 
require it, clearing the surface of the mould in the pots, examining them 
in respect to drainage, Sac. About the beginning of February air must be 
again freely admitted during all fine days, and this must be increased as 
the season advances, until the lights can be left partly open duiing the 
night, and finally removed altogether. A^ air is increased, so should water 
also in the same proportion. 

During spring, some plants may require to be sliifted into larger pots ; 
when this is apparent, the operation must by no means be put off till 
the general shifting takes place, but be done immediately. Shifting at 
this period may be necessary- from two causes, viz., to increase the size of 
the plant when such is desirable, and when the mould, from imperfect 
draining or other causes, gets too much saturated with moisture. In 
regard to watering at all seasons, there is one rule that should not be 
departed from, namely, that the plants be permitted to become partially 
dry before water be apphed to them, because, when kept continually wet, 
the mould loses that active quality which is so necessary to vegetation, 
and the plant, as Gushing justly observes, in consequence " will assume a 
very unhealthy appearance, which many might not perhaps attribute to 
the proper cause." 

The arrangement of plants in greenhouses appears to be but httle 
understood ; the old practice of placing them indiscriminately upon the 
shelves of the stage, keeping in view only the end of having a regular 
sloping bank of foliage, without, as it were, one leaf being allowed to stand 
higher than its neighbour, is most absurd. At the same rime we are 
aware, that from the materials to be operated upon, and the size of the 
field of operation, little can be effected in giving a picturesque character 
to the mass ; nor do we think this absolutely necessary. But one thing 
we know to be certain, that many a valuable plant is destroyed because 
it happens, from sheer neglect on the part of the cultivator, that it may 
have run up with a naked stem, having only a few leaves at the top, or 
it may have, from neglect or accident, become less rigorous and hand 
some in its appearance than many robust plants around it : such a plant 

p 



210 



THE MIXED GREEXHOUSE. 



as this is too often, however rare, thrust in some out-of-the-way part of 
the house, quite out of sight. Now, such a plant, from being in a sickly 
state, should he either cut down in spring and allowed to form itself anevr, 
or brought into the most favourable part of the house, to be nursed into 
better health. Again, many plants that naturally require abundance of 
light, the genus Protean for example, are often placed behind coarser and 
common-place plants, that could themselves stand during the season under 
the shade of others. If we take our observations from nature, we see 
that there are plants of shade, and others that affect the sun. There are 
the same rules observed throughout the whole vegetable kingdom, and in 
no instance will deviation from this rule be observed but under the culti- 
vating hand of man. Plants ought to be placed according to their several 
natures ; and this is one of many reasons which has induced us to sketch 
out the arrangement in their cultivation, which we have endeavoured to 
elucidate in these pages. 

We see no impropriety in bringing the several genera cultivated in a 
Mixed Greenhouse into groups by themselves. For example, the family 
Polygala in one group, Acacia in another, Gnidia in a third, and so on. 
The effect would be both systematic and pleasing, and the advantages to 
the cultivator many, because he could at one glance see his stock of each 
genus and species, giving them excess of water, or the reverse, according 
to circumstances ; and at the same time any pecuhar feature in the man- 
agement could be better attended to than if they were scattered all over 
the house. 

SOIL. 

The majority of greenhouse plants which come under the present head 
v/ill flourish to the utmost perfection in a soil composed of half light turfy 
sandy loam and peat earth- Some few, such as Protea, prefer a rich loam 
of a middling texture, and others, such as Pimelea, Roella, Lechenaultia, 
prefer a sandy peat alone. The fresh soil of a properly selected piece of 
uncultivated land, having abundance of fibrous vegetable matter contained 
in it, should be preferred. AU garden mould, or that which has been under 
a state of cultivation, should be carefully rejected. 

SHIFTING OR POTTING. ^ 

Enough has been already said upon this subject, under the various 
lisads ah-eady noticed, to render any lengthened description of the process 
UEi':i8cessai7 here ; we will only refer to what has been said on the subject, 



AZALEA, INDIGOFERA, PIMELEA. 



211 



and state that all greenhouse plants should be shifted at least once a year, 
many of them oftener, according to their habits of growth or the purpose 
for which they may be intended. There is one very general and very 
great fault in shifting plants, and that is, placing them in too large pots, 
nor is this a subject that any written directions can explain or rectify. 
We know of no other rule that can be at all considered as bearing on the 
case, or that we have words to explain, other than proportioning the size 
of the pot to the number, size, and form of the roots. Thus a heath, or 
Azalea, requires a much less pot to grow in than a Pseonia or Fuchsia 
of the same size, and such plants as Chrysanthemum, Calceolaria, &c., that 
require to be grown rapidly to increase the number and size of their 
flowers, and also those being only herbaceous, that is, producing a fresh 
volume of herb annually, require much larger pots than the slender-rooted 
Selago, or Chi'ronia, Instead of calculating by the size, number, or nature 
of the roots, it is too general a practice to calculate by the size of the 
plant only. 

AZALEA. 

The Chinese varieties of this splendid genus strike by cuttings of the 
young wood taken off close to the ripened shoots, planted in sand, and 
placed under a bell-glass in a mild bottom heat. The best soil for grown 
up plants is a sandy turfy peat, and the best situation the most sunny 
while in the greenhouse, till after they flower, when they may be placed 
out of doors, but not in an exposed place. They must be kept in a cool 
pit during winter, and taken into the house in February or March, to 
produce their flowers. 

INDIGOFERA. 

This genus seeds freely, from whence young plants may be obtained, 
the seeds to be sown as soon as ripe. They also increase by cuttings, 
planted in sand and placed in a cool situation. The best soil for them is 
light sandy loam and peat, the larger proportion of the latter. 

PIMELEA. 

Cuttings of the young wood root freely, planted in sand and placed 
upon a shght warmth without bell-glasses. They often seed afeimdantly, 
and in this case should be sown in fine sandy peat soil, slightly covered, 
and placed in a cool situation near the glass. Sandy peat with a portion 
of vegetable fibre is the best soil for them. 

p 2 



2^212 



THE MIXED GREENHOUSE. 



POLYGALA. 

This fine-flowering genus requires the same soil and treatment as the 
last. 

CHJRONIA 

Is propagated by cuttings taken off in spring, planted in sand, and covered 
with a bell-glass in a cool situation. A light sandy loam and peat is the 
most suitable for them. 

PROTEA. 

This fine genus has been subdivided into various new genera. The 
species which are natives of the Cape of Good Hope are almost all splen- 
did when in flower, but it is to be regretted that so few of them are at 
present to be found in our gardens. The late collectors, Niven and 
Mason, sent many species to the Kew garden, and also to the Hammer- 
smith nursery, but in both collections few of them are now to be seen. 
A rich loamy soil is suitable to the majority of them. They are very 
difficult to increase by cuttings, but seeds of them can be readily obtained 
from the Cape, and occasionally they ripen seeds in this country. 

ROELLA 

Is multiplied by cuttings of the young wood, planted in sand and placed 
on a slight heat under a glass. The grown-up plants prefer a sandy peat 
alone, and small pots. 

SALVIA. 

No genus of plants strikes more freely, or is grown -^ith less trouble. 

SELAGO. 

The Voung shoots root freely in sand, under a glass, in a cool place. 
Light loam and peat, of each equal parts, will grow them to perfection. 

SWANSONIA. 

Seeds are readily produced, and vegetate freely if sown in peat and loam. 
Cuttings root with little difficulty, but seedhngs make the best plants. 



ACACIA, ANTHOCERCIS, ETC. 



215 



ACACIA. 

This numerous and free-flowering family do not readily increase by cut- 
tings, but full-groTvn specimens seed abundantly. A, puhescens, one of 
the most splendid of the family, is increased by cuttings of the roots, 
which should be planted in peat and loam, and placed in a mild, moist 
temperatm-e. Seeds are occasionally produced. But the facility of pro- 
curing seeds of most of the genera from New Holland renders these plants 
plentiful in our gardens. 

ANTHOCERCIS. 

Cuttings of the half-ripened shoots, planted in sand, root when placed 
in a cool situation, and sometimes those of the young shoots also succeed 
when placed in a sUght heat, covered "s^ith a bell-glass. It is by no 
means a genus that is rapidly propagated, nor is it without care that the 
plants will hve long. The most airy situation in the greenhouse is the 
best for them. 

GENISTA, GOODIA, FODALYRIA, AND CROTALARIA, 

Will all strike by cuttings of the young wood, planted in sand, and kept 
cool ; but the best method of increasing them is by seeds, which they 
produce freely when the plants are full-grown. These should be sown in 
peat and loam, the soil they prefer when full-grown. 

GNIDIA. 

This genus is easily propagated by cuttings of the young wood, planted 
in sand, and placed under a glass. The soil they prefer is light loam 
and peat. 

LINUM. 

The shrubby species of this genus root freely from cuttings of the 
young wood, and the herbaceous or soft- wooded kinds produce seeds freely, 
which should be sown in peat and loam, the soil the plants thrive best in. 

CALCEOLARIA. 

The shrubby species and varieties of this fine-flowering tribe root 



214 



THE MIXED GREENHOUSE. 



readily by cuttings planted in finely-sifted, light, rich mould, and the 
herbaceous sorts divide at the roots, and both produce seeds which vege- 
tate freely if sown on the surface of pots of fine, light, rich mould, in 
February. When they have vegetated, as soon as they will move, the 
seedlings should be planted out into other pots, and kept in a very shght 
heat to forward them. By the latter end of May or the beginning of 
June they will be fit to plant out into a rather cool shaded border, when 
they wiU flower till the end of autumn. From these the finest varieties 
should be selected, potted in autumn, and kept in a cool pit or green- 
house during winter, when they mil flower beautifully the following sum- 
mer. Cuttings taken off in autumn, and kept in a dry, airy place, where 
frost is merely excluded, if potted into larger pots in springy, will also 
flower in great perfection during summer. The whole family is very 
subject to the attacks of green-fly : when that is observed, recourse must 
be had to the fumigation of tobacco, and a shght syringing over their 
tops the day following. The shrubby sorts are so hardy that they will 
stand in the open border uninjured during ordinary winters, and so alsc* 
would the herbaceous kinds were it not that they sufi*er from damp. 

GARDENIA. 

Most of this genus are hot-house plants ; but the two species G.forida 
and G» radicans are best kept in a cool pit from the time that they go 
out of flower till it be deskable to make them form flower-buds for the 
succeeding season, when they should be shifted into fresh mould, plunged^ 
or rather set, on the surface of a pretty strong bottom heat, a moist steam 
heat being kept up in the pit, and the lights kept rather closely shui. 
They will by this means show abundance of bloom buds, and beautiful 
fresh fohage, and when they are just about coming into bloom, if re- 
moved to the greenhouse or drawing-room, they will continue longer in 
flower, and perfume the whole apartment with their delightful fragrance. 
They are readily propagated by cutttings of the last year's wood, planted 
in rich, light mould, without glasses, in a humid, rather warm atmo- 
sphere. 

ALONSOA, AND BOUVARDIA* 

Both of these strike root freely by cuttmgs of the young wood placed 
in a shght heat, without covering ; their whole culture is of the most 
simple kind ; a soil half peat and half loam suits them very well. 



lirutus. Rufus. 



t 



LOBELIA, FUCHSIA, ETC. 



215 



LOBELIA, 

This genus has been recently divided into several genera : these are 
included under the original name, Lobelia. The small species, such as 
L, erinoides, &c., seed freely, and are increased by cuttings of the young 
shoots. The larger species, such as L. tupa, &c., multiply also by seeds, 
cuttings taken off close to the crown of the root, just as they are coming 
up in spring, and also the roots may be divided. They all prosper in 
a rich, light soil. 

FUCHSIA. 

There is no genus that can be more readily increased ; the young shoots 
root freely, and they will grow well in almost any kind of soil. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM. 

The numerous varieties of the Chinese species of this family increase 
by cuttings, by dividing the root, and occasionally by seeds ; but these 
seldom ripen in this country. The operation of propagation may be com- 
menced almost at any season, and in any soil. 

PLUMBAGO, AND HIBISCUS. 

These two genera are usually kept in the stove. P. capensis and 
H. rosa- sinensis^ with its varieties, are much better in the greenhouse. 
They are propagated by cuttings of the half-ripened wood, planted in 
sand, and placed in a mild heat. A soil composed of good peat and light 
loam is the best for them. 

ANIGOZANTHOS. 

This singular and handsome genus is increased by dividing the plant 
near its roots : it grows well in a peaty soil, or in peat and loam. 

CANARINA. 

This genus is not by any means common, notwithstanding its great 
merits. It is increased by dividing the roots, and by exciting them in 
spring, and taking the young shoots off when about two inches long for 
cuttings. These are planted in sand, and root freely in a moderate heat 



216 



THE MIXED GREEXHOrSE, 



under a glass. A peat and loam soil is sufficient for it. The roots 
should be kept dry during \v-inter, lil^e the Dahha, but kept in the pot. 

ARCTOTIS AXD GAZANIA 

Are botli increased by separation at the roots, and also by cuttings, 
which grow freely in a soil composed of peat and loam, 

ERYTHRIXA, CRISTA-GALLI, AND LAURIFOLIA, 

Are plants of great beaut^r, lasting long in flower. The roots should be 
kept dormant during winter, and excited about the end of Februar)-, when 
young cuttings will be obtained fi'om the numerous shoots that they will 
send up. Tliese, taken off close to the root, and planted singly into small 
pots filled ^Ith sand and placed in a mild heat, will root freely, and if 
forwai'ded in the hot-bed or stove will flower the same season. But the 
best flowers will be obtained from the old plants, which can scarcely be 
put into too large a pot, and placed in the greenhouse. So hardy are 
both species that they will stand out of doors planted in the ground with 
a very shght protection. A rich soil should be given to them, as that 
^YiW add much to their size, and to the beauty of the spikes of flowers. 

BRUGMAXSIA, 

This genus is readily increased by cuttings taken off when quite young 
from near the root. If planted in any hght, rich soil, they wiU grow 
rapidly. They require repeated shifting, because the larger the plant 
can be grown befwe flowering the better. 

CLERODENDROX, 

Of this genus the species C.fragram is a beautiful and fragi*ant green- 
house plant, although generally kept in the stove. It is readily propa- 
gated by cuttings of the young wood, placed in a warm situation. A hght, 
rich soil is requisite to have this plant in peilection. 

HUMEA 

Is increased by seeds sown early in spring, and treated like any pot- 
cultivated annual. It often flowers the first season., but always the next. 



P^OXIA, CINERARIA, ETC. 



217 



P^OXIA. 

The Chinese shrubby species are increased by layers, by cuttings, by 
grafting them on roots of one another. They are hardy enough to stand 
our winters in a sheltered spot, but as they flower so early in the season, 
their flowers are apt to be cut oflf by late frosts. ^VTien grown in pots 
they may be kept most of the year in a cold pit, and brought into the 
greenhouse to perfect their flowers, which are magnificent. Any rich, 
good soil suits them to grow in. 

CINERARIA, 

Many of the species produce seeds, from wliich of late years some fine 
hybrids have been obtained. They all strike very readily by cuttings, 
and also by dividing at the root. No plants are more easily cultivated 
than these. 

ECHIUM. 

The Cape species of this genus are splendid flowering plants, but too 
much neglected in modern cultivation. They ripen seeds, and are easily 
increased by cuttings, planted in sand, and placed in a cool situation. 
Peat and loam is a good soil for them. 

ANAGALLIS. 

This pretty little genus is readily increased by cuttings, which stiike in 
sand. The plants prefer hght, sandy loam and peat. 

LECHEXAULTIA. 

The young tips of the shoots, taken off about an inch long, and planted 
in sand, covered with a bell-glass, and placed in a dry cool place, strike 
freely. The grown-up plants prefer peat and loam to grow in, but by far 
the greater portion of the former. 

PSORALEA. 

A genus easily cultivated : the young or the half-ripened shoots root 
freely, and seeds are also frequently produced. They thrive well in a 
peat and loam soil. 



218 



THE MIXED GREEXHOrSE. 



CORONILLA. 

This genus is readily increased by cuttings of the young v-ood, planted 
in sand, left uncovered, and placed in a close heat. Peat and loam, of 
each equal parts, is a good soil for them. 

In regard to the propagation of greenhouse climbers, 6:c., those enume- 
rated at the beginning of this article strike by cuttings in the same way 
as directed for the plants above. They require a rich soil and consider- 
able space for their roots to spread m, as the object is to make them grow 

luxuriantly, and flower abundantly. 




Ground Plan and Elevatio/i of the Greenhouse of Mr. Perkins-, 
at Chip-it e ad. Kent. 



219 



SELECT LIST OF GREENHOUSE AXD CONSERVATORY 
CLIMBERS. 



WHITE. 



Tnree-flowered Astephauus. ( Aste- 
phanus triflorus.) Flowers in July 
and August, in peat and loam. Di- 
vision. ^Four feet lii^h. 

Spotted Celastnis. i Cr'rrxfn/s pnncta- 
tii^s.) Rowers in ]^iay and July, in 
sandy loam. Cutting-s. Six feet 
hig-li.' 

T^viffffy Decumaria. {Decumaria sar- 
miniosa.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in peat and loam.' Layers. 
ITiirty feet hia-li. 

Scollop-leaved Ipomaea. {Iponicea sinu- 
afa.) Flowers in July and August, 
in common soil. Seeds. Six feet 
high. 

Common spring Caper Tree. {Cajj- 
paris sjnnosa.) Flowers in May and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Three feet high. 

Masson's Virgin's Bower. {Clematis 
Massoniana.) FloTvers in Jime and 



September, in sandy peat. Layers, 
Twelve feet high. 
Chinese Virgin's Bower. (Clematis 
chlnensis. ) Flowers in April, in 
common loam. Lavers. Twelve feet 
hio-h. 

I Herman's Bindweed. (' Convolculu& 
HermaniUcC. ) Flowers in August and 

j September, in rich mould, division 

1 of the root^ Five feet high. 

I Lai'ge-llowered Jasmine. ^ iJasminum 
grandlflorum.) Flowers in June and 
October, in rich mould. Cuttings. 
Fifteen feet high. 
Slender Jasmine. {Jasminum gracile.) 
Flowers all the year, in rich mouid. 
Cuttings. Three feet high. 
Sweet-scented Jasmine. C Jasminum 
odoratissima.) Flowers most of the 
year, in rich mould. Cuttings. 
Three to six feet high. 



PURPLE. 



Glaucous-leaved Birthwort. (Aristo- 
U)chia glauca.) Flowers in July, in 
peat and loam. Cuttings. Six feet 
high. 

Evergreen Birthwort. { Arisfolochia 
sempervirens.) Flowers in May and 
June, in peat and loam. Division. 
Four feet high. 

Simple-leaved Kennedia. (Kejinedia 
mo)ioph}illa.) Flowers in March and 
June, in sandv peat. Cuttings. 
Ten feet high. 

Carolina Ipomaea. {lpom<ea Carolina.) 
Flov.ers in Julv and Au2:ust, in rich 
mould. Seeds. Ten feet high. 

Great purple Ipomsa. (Iponuea pur- 
purea.) Rowers in June and Sep- 



tember, in common loam. Seeds. 
Ten feet his-h., 

I Vroody Dolichos. (Bolichos ligiwsiis.) 
Flowers in July and August,'in peat 

■ and loam. Seeds. Twelve feet high. 

; Canary Bindweed. (Com-olrulus caua- 
ricfi'sis.) Flowers in May and Sep- 

: tember, in sandy loam. Division of 
the root. Twenty feet high. 

I Climbing Coba?a. {Coha'a^ scandeths.) 

[ Flowers in May and October, in peat 

I and loam. Seeds. IVenty feet high. 

j Climbing Lophospennum. ' ( Loplto- 

} spermum r/todoc/iifon.) Rowers in 

I June and July, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. Fifteen feet high. 



220 



THE MIXED GREENHOUSE. 



PINK. 



Common-blue-clustery Passion-flower. 
(Passi flora cceruleo-racemosa.) Flow- 
ers in June and October, in common 
loam. Cuttings. Thirty feet liig-h. 

Flesh-coloured Passion-flower. {Pas- 
siflora incarnata.) Flowers in July 



and AugTist, in rich mould. Cut- 
tings. Thirty feet high. 
Mealy-stalked Bindweed. {Convolvu- 
lus farinosus.) Flowers in May and 
June, in sandy loam. Division of 
the root. Six feet high. 



Japanese Honeysuckle. {CaprifoUum 
japonicum.) Flowers in July and 
September, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. Fifteen feet high. 

Flexuose Honeysuckle. {CaprifoUum 
flexuosum.) Flowers in July and Sep- 
tember, in common loam. Cuttings. 
Ten feet high. 

Southern Tecoma. ( Tecoma australis.) 



Flowers in April and July, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. Six feet high. 

Large - flowered Tecoma. ( Tecoma 
grandiftora.) Flowers in July and 
August, in rich mould. Cuttings. 
Thirty feet high. 

Cape Tecoma. ( Tecoma capensis. ) 
Flowers in July and September, in 
peat and loam. Cuttings. Eight 
feet high. 



Twining Hibbertia. {Hihhertia volu- 
bilis.) Flowers in May and October, 
in sandy peat. Cuttings. Eight feet 
high. 

Gooseberry-leaved Hibbertia. {Hib- 
bertia grossularicB folia.) Flowers in 
March and August, in sandy peat. 
Cuttings. Six feet high. 

Evergreen Gelsemium. {Gelsemium 
sempervirens.) Flowers in June and 



July, in sandy peat. Cuttings. Six 
feet high. 

Revolute-flowered Jasmine. {Jasmi- 
num revolutum.) Flowers in June 
and October, in rich mould. Cut- 
tings. Ten feet high. 

Large-leaved Trumpet-flower. {Big- 
nonia gr audi folia.) Flowers in April 
and July, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. Sixty feet high. 



RED. 



Broad-leaved Eustrephus. ( Eustre- 
phm latifolius,) Flowers in June 
and July, in sandy peat. Seeds. 
Three feet high. 



Narrow-leaved Eustrephus. {Eustre- 
phus angustifolius.) Flowers in July, 
in sandy peat. Cuttings. Tliree 
feet high. 



Climbing Asparagus. ( Asparagus 
scandens.) Flowers in May, in sandy 
peat. Division of the root. Six feet 
high. 

Flexuous Asparagus. . ( Asparagus 
Jiexuosm.) Flowers in July and Au- 



gust, in sandy peat. Division of the 

root. Three feet high. 

[The whole genera Cissus have green 
in conspicuous flowers ; their foliage, 
however, is various and interesting, 
which, with their rapid growth, entitles 
them to greenhouse culture.] 



Spindle - shaped Apple - berry. {Bil- 
lardiera fusiformis.) Flowers in July 
and August, in sandy peat. Seeds. 
Eight feet high. 

Cloth-leaved Bindweed. {Convolvulus 
panmfolius.) Flowers in June and 



September, in sandy loam. Divisioa 
of the root. Fifteen feet high. 
Various-leaved SoUya. {Sollyahetero- 
pJiylla.) Flowers in June and Octo- 
ber, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 
Eight feet high. 



SELECT LIST OF GREENHOUSE CLIMBERS. 



221 



Blue Ipomsea. ( Iponuea ojerulea. ) 
Flowers in June and September, 
in rich mould. Seeds. Nine feet 
hi^h. 

Compton's Kennedia. ( Kennedia 
Compf.oniana. ) Flowers in January 
and March, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Twelve feet hig-li. 



Common blue Passion-flower. {Passi- 
flora cceridea.) Flowers in June and 
October, in sandy peat. Cutting's. 
Thirty feet high. 

Consequa's AYistaria. {Wistaria Con- 
sequana.) Flowers in June and Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Layers. 
Fifteen feet high. 



SCARLET. 

Tendrilled Trumpet-flower. {Bigrionia I Scarlet -flowered Kennedia. { Ken- 
capreolata.) Flowers in July and i nedia coccinea.) Flowers in March 
August, in peat and loam. Cuttings. I and April, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Twelve feet high. | Ten feet high, and'upwards. 



CRIMSOX. 



Climbing Apple-berry. ( Billardiera 
scandens.) Flowers in June and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Twelve feet high. 



Long - flowered Apple - berry. ( Bil- 
idrdiera longiflora.) Flowers in June 
and September, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. ^ Twelve feet high. 



ROSE. 



Climbing Lophospermum. {Loplwspermum erubescens.) Flowers in June and 
October, in rich loam. Cuttings. T^veive feet high. 



222 



SELECT LIST OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS, 

NOT TXCLUDED IN ANY OF THE PRECEDING LISTS, AND CALCULATED 
FOR THE MIXED GREENHOUSE. 



WHITE. 



From one to three feet high. 



Loria:-flowered Bouvavdia. (Bouvardia 
loiiglflora. ) Flowers in July and 
September, in loam and peat. Cut- 
ting's. 

Scented Lantana. {Lanfana odorata.) 
Flowers in ]\Iay and November, in 
peat and loam. Cutting's. 

Ever-blowing- Wall-fio\^ er. {Chciran- 
thus semperflorens.) Flowers all the 
year, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Proliferous Cytisus. {Cijtlsiis proVife- 
rus.) Flowers in April and May, in 
peat and loam. Seeds. 

Showy \Miite-flowered Gloxinia. ( Glo- 
xinia speciosa alba.) nowers in 
June and November, in sandy peat. 
Division of the root. 

White-flowered Chironia. ( CMronia 
albiflora.) Flowers in June and Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Cutting's. 

White Cineraria. ( Cineraria alba. ) 
Flowers in February and April, in 
common loam. Cutting:s. 

Smooth Viper's Bugloss. ( EcJiium 
glabrum.) Flowers in ]May and July, 
in sandy loam. Cutting's. 

Hispid Yiper-s Bnofloss. ( Echium 
Mspidum. ) Flowers in I\Iay and 
June, in peat and loam. Cutting's. 

White-flowered Rue. {Ruta albiflora.) 
Flowers in July and Aug'ust, in rich 
mould. Cutting's. 

Rooting Gardenia. {Gardenia radl- 
caiis!) Flowers in May and June, in 
rich mould. Cuttings. 

Fine-leaved Psoralea. ^(Psoralea teiiui- 
folia.) Flowers in March and July, 
"in peat andlosm. Cuttings. 

West Indian Leadwort. ( Plumbago 
occidentali^.) Flowers in April and 



September, in loam and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Flax-leaved Turnsole. {Heliotropium 
linifolium. ) Flowers in June and 
September, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Morocco Turnsole. {Heliotropium ma- 
roccanum. ) Flowers in June and 
July, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Ovate-leaved Strutliiola. {^^trufhiola 
ovata.) Flowers in January and Fe- 
bruary, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Hoary Struthiola. {Struthiola incana.) 
Flowers in May and August, in- 
sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Long-flowered Lobelia. {Lobelia longi- 
fiora.) Flowers in June and Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Cutting's. 

Smooth Phylica. ' {Phi/lica glabrata.) 
Flowers in ;May and June, in peat 
and loam. Cuttings. 

Imbricated Phylica. {Phylica imbri- 
caia. ) Flowers in August and 
September, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Dwarf Phylica. ( Phylica pumila. ) 

Flowers in May and' June, in peat 

and loam. Cuttings. 
Feathered Phylica. {Phylica pumosa.) 

Flowers in March and May, in peat 

and loam. Cuttings. 
Milk-white Mallow. {Molva lactea.) 

Flowers in January and February, in 

common loam. Cuttings. 
Tooth-leaved Sage. {Salvia dent at a.) 

Flowers in December and January, 

in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
White-flowered Sage, {^'ali'ia leucan- 

tha.) Flowers in June and July, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 



SELECT LIST OF GKEEXHOUiE PLANTS, 



223 



Squarrose Melaleuca. ( Melaleuca 
squarrosa.) Flowers in June and 
July, in sandy loam, and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Chaste Humble-plant. (Mimosa pu- 
dica.) Rowers in April and Septem- 
ber, in rich mould. Seeds. 

Flax-leaved Pimelea. ( Pimelea Ivni- 
foVia.) Flowers in July and August, 
"in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Pimelea callina, glauca^ Ugu-strina, 



liyioides, filamentosa, drupacea, spi- 

cata, incana. 
Spiked Sparrow-wort. (Pa.sserina spi- 

cata.) Flowers in ^Nlay and June, in 

sandy peat. Cuttings'. 
"^Tiite-ilowered Hebenstreitia. ( He- 

henstreitia alhiHora. ) Flowers in 

May and September, in loam and 

peat. Cutting-s. 
Ciliated Hebenstreitia. {Hebenstreitia 

ciliata.) Flowers in May and July, 

in peat and loam. Cuttings, 



From three to si x feet high. 



Whitish-leaved Anthocercis. {Antho- 

cercis albicans.) Flowers in April 

and July, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Viscid Anthocercis. (Anthocercis vis- 

cosa.) Flowers in May and June, in 

sandy peat. Cutting's. 
Dwarf Strawberry Tree. (Arbutu^s pu- 

m.ila.) Rowers in March and April, 

in peat and loam. Layers. 
Canary Strawberry. (Arbutus canari- 

ensi 's. ) Rowers' in May and June, in 

sandy peat. Layers. 
Fratescent Baeckia. ( BcecMa frute- 

scens.) Rowers in September and 

December, in sandy loam. Layers. 
Flax-leaved Baeckia.' ( BacMa lini- 

folia.) Rowers in July and August, 

"in sandy peat. Cuttin'sfs. 
Cape Red Wood. ( Ceanofh us capensis.) 

Flowers in May and July, in loam 

and peat. Cutting-s. 
Milk-coloured Cineraria. ( Cineraria 

lactea. ) Rowers in June and July, 

in loam and peat. Cuttings. 
Taller Cineraria. {Cineraria eJafior.) 

Rowers in Jidy and Aug-ust, in peat 

and loam. Cuttings, and division of 

the root. 

Chinese Spindle Tree. ( Euonymus 
chinensis. ) Flowers in 3Iay and 
June, in common loam. Cuttings. 

Thunberg's Gardenia. ( Gardenia 
Thunbergia. ) Flowers in January 
and ]\Iarch, in loam and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Fragrant Gardenia. ( Gardenia fra- 
grans.) Flowers in July and October, 
in loam and peat. Cutting-s. 

Broom Wall - liower. ( Cheiranthus 
scopariws.) Flowers in May and Oc- 
tober, in rich loam. Cuttings. 

Cloud-born Cytisus. ( Cgtisus nubi- 
geniis.) Rowers in May and June, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Soft Viper's Bugloss. {Echium moUe.) 
Rowers in June and July, in peat 
and loam. Cuttings. 

Leafy Viper's Bugloss. {Echium foUo- 



i sum.) Rowers in May and June, in. 
[ peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Solanum-like Thomasia. ( Thomasia 
solanacea. ) Flowers in April and 
July, in sand and peat. Cuttings. 
Small-ilowered Thomasia. (Thomasia 
; parviflora. ) Flowers in April and 
I July, in loam and peat. Cuttings. 
: Haiiy Psoralea. ( Psoralea hirta. ) 
• Rowers in ]May and Au2:ust, in peat 
1 and loam. Cuttinofs. 
I Strict Mallow. (Mah-a stricta.) Fk)w- 
, ers in :\Iay and August, in common 
loam. Cuttings. 
Oxycantha-like 3Iallow. (Malva oxy- 
I canthoides.) Rowers in May and 
I August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
1 SmaU-dowered Lasiopetalum. (Las-io- 
I petalum parvijiorum. ) Flowers in 
i April and Julv, in loam and peat. 
I Cuttin^-s. 

i Rusty Lasiopetalimi. (Lamopetalwn 
\ ferrugineum.) Rowers in April and 

July, in loam and peat. Cuttings. 
. Oleander-leaved Protea. (Protea iierii- 
folia.) Rowers in February and 
April, in sand, loam, and peat. Cut- 
tings . 

Magnilicent Protea. (Protea magni- 
jica.) Rowers in March and Julv, 
in sandy loam. Seeds and cuttings. 
, Great-llowered Protea. (Protea grand i- 
1 flora.) Flowers in May and June, in 
i sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Sweet-scented Sage. (^'Salvia odorata.) 
Flowers in July, in sandy loam. 
Cuttings. 

Whitest Sage. {^Salvia candidis^rima.) 
Flowers in July and August, in 
sandy loam. Division of the root. 
I Bundle-tlowered Metrosideros. {Me- 
i trosideros Jioribundns.) Flowers in 
i July and August, in sandy loam, 
j Cuttings. 

. Smith's Zieria. ( Zieria Smithii. ) 
j Rowers in April and July, in sandy 
j peat. Cuttings. 



224 



THE MIXED GREENHOUSE. 



Pilose Zieria. (Zieria pilosa.) Flowers 
in May and July, in sandy peat. 
Cuttings. 

Fragrant Clerodendrum. ( Cleroden- 
drum fragrans.) Flowers in August 



and December, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Livid Clerodendrum. {Clerodendrum 
lividum.) Flowers in November, in 
peat and loam. Cuttings. 



From one to three feet high. 



Diffuse Acacia. ( Acacia diffusa. ) 
Flowers in May and June, in sand, 
loam, and peat. Cuttings. 
Double-headed Acacia. {Acacia stricta.) 
Flowers in' February and May, in 
sand, loam, and peat. Cuttings. 
Four - angled Chironia. ( Chironia 
tetragona.) Flow^ers in July and Au- 
gust, in sand and peat. Cuttings. 
Berry - bearing Chironia. ( Chironia 
baccifera.) Flowers in June and 
July, in sandy peat. Seeds. 
Fine-leaved Wall-flower. {Cheiranthus 
tenuifolius. ) Flowers in IVIay and 
3 June, in loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Silvery Crotalaria. ( Crotalaria ar- 
gentea.) Flowers in July, in sandy 
ioam. Cuttings and seeds. 
^ Flax -leaved Crotalaria. {Crotalaria 

linifoUa.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in common loam. Seeds. 
3 Dwarf Crotalaria. ( Crotalaria pu- 

mila.) Flowers in June and July, in 
sand and peat. Seeds. 
3 Rough-leaved Burtonia. ( Burtonia 

.scabra.) Flowers in May and July, 
in sand, loam, and peat. Cuttings. 
^ Sessile-leaved Burtonia. ( Burtonia 

sessilifolia.) Flowers in March and 
July, in sand and peat. Cuttings. 
Smaller Burtonia. {Burtonia minor.) 
Flowers in May and July, in sand 
and peat. Cuttings. 
Willow-leaved Cineraria. {Cineraria 
^ salicifolia.) Flowers in June and 

August, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 
Hoary Cineraria. {Cineraria incana.) 
S Flowers in June and August, in loam 

and peat. Cuttings. 
Early Cineraria. {Cineraria pr<jecooc.) 
t Flowers in February and April, in 

peat and loam. Cuttings. 
Fragrant Erinus. {Erinus fragrans.) 
V Flowers in May and^ June, in sandy 

loam. Cuttings. 
Lychnidea Erinus. {Erinus lychnidea.) 
Flowers in May and June, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings. 
Prostrate Banksia. (Banksia pros- 
^ trata.) Flowers in May and Au- 

gust, in loam and peat. Cuttings. 
Creeping Banksia. {Banksia repens.) 
^ Flowers in May and August, in sand, 

loam, and peat. Cuttings. 



Ciliated Borbonia. {Borbo7iia ciliata.) 
Flowers in July, in peat and loam. 
Seeds. 

Ruscus-leaved Borbonia. ( Borbonia 
ruscifoUa.) Flowers in July and 
August, in peat and loam. Seeds. 

Yellow Gnidia. {Gnidiajlava.) Flow- 
ers in May and June, in sandy peat. 
Cuttings. 

Pine-leaved Gnidia. {Gnidia pinifolia.) 
Flowers in May and June, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. 

Simple Gnidia. ( Gnidia simplex. ) 
Flowers in May and June, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings'. 

Capitate Gnidia. {Gnidia capitata.) 
Flowers in June and July, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. 

Silvery Gnidia. {Gnidia argentea.) 
Flowers in May and June, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. 

Nervose Dryandra. {Dryandra ner- 
vosa.) Flowers in March and May, 
in loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Fine - leaved Dryandra. {Dryandra 
tenuifolia.) Flowers in March and 
May, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Pteris-leaved Dryandra. {Dryandra 
pteridi folia.) Flowers in March and 
May, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

White-leaved Dryandra. {Dryandra ni- 
vea.) Flowers in July and September, 
in sandy loam. Seeds and cuttings. 

Long -leaved Dryandra. {Dryandra 
longifolia.) Flowers all the year, in 
sandy peat. Seeds. 

Tree Flax. {Linum arboreum.) Flowers 
in May and August, in peat and 
loam. Cuttings. 

African Flax. ( Linum africanum. ) 
Flowers in June and July, in peat 
and loam. Cuttings. 

Four-leaved Flax. ( Linum quadri- 
folium.) Flowers in May and June, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Fragrant Hermannia. ( Hermannia 
fragrans.) Flowers in May and July, 
in loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Velvety Hermannia. ( Hermajinia 
velutina.) Flowers in May and July, 
in loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Soft-leaved Hermannia. {Hermannia 
mollis.) Flowers in May and June, 
in loam and peat. Cuttings. 



SELECT LIST OF GE 



Glittmng Hermannia. {Hermannia 
micans.) Flowers in INIay and Au- 
gust, in loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Hoary Melaleuca. {Melaleuca incana.) 
Flowers in June and August, in sand, 
loam, and peat. Cuttings. 

Chaste Mimosa. ( Mimosa casta, ) 
Flowers in July, in peat and loam. 
Seeds. 

Drooping - podded Ononis. {Ononis 
cerniia.) Flowers in July and Sep- 
tember, in common loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Broom - like Jacksonia. ( Jacksonia 
scojyaria.) Flowers in June and Au- 
gust, in sand and peat. Cuttings. 

Spinous Jacksonia. {JacTxsonia spi- 
nosa.) Flowers in April and Septem- 
ber, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Golden-flowered Sage. {Salvia aurea.) 
Flowers in April and November, in 
peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Ledum -leaved Pomaderris. {Poma- 
deni^s ledifolia.) Flowers in April 
and June, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Philica -leaved Pomaderris. {Poma- 
derris pJiylicifolia.) Flowers in 
April and June, in sandy peat. 
Cuttings. 

Woolly-leaved Struthiola. {StrutMola 
tomentosa) Flowers in August 
and September, in sandy peat. 
Cuttings. 



From three to 



Deceiving Acacia. {Acacia decipiens.) 
Flowers in Marcb and June, in sandy 
loam and peat. Cuttings, but, like 
most of the family, much better by 
seeds. 

Diffuse Acacia. ( Acacia diffusa. ) 
Flowers in May and June, in sandy 
loam and peat.' Cuttings and seeds. 

Yew-leaved Acacia. {Acacia tajcifolia.) 
Flowers in April and June, in sandy 
loam and peat. Cuttings and seeds. 

Kindred Acacia. {Acacia a ffinis) Flow- 
ers in April and June, in sandy loam 
and peat. Cuttings and seeds. 

Rue-leaved Acacia. {Acacia rutccfolia.)- 
Flowers in April and June, in sandy 
loam and peat. Cuttings and seeds. 

Pendulous Acacia. {Acacia pendula.) 
Flowers in April and June, in sandy 
loam and peat. Cuttings and seeds. 

Dodonaea-leaved Acacia. {Acacia do- 
donaifolia.) Flowers in iSlarch and 
June, in sandv loam and peat. Cut- 
tings and seeds. 



EXHOUSE PLANTS. 225 

Smooth Struthioia. {StrutMola gla- 
bra.) Flovrers in May and August, 
in sand and peat. Cuttings. 

Tiled-leaved Struthioia. ( StrutMola 
imbricata.) Flowers in April and 
August, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Yellovv-flowered Bird's -foot Trefoil. 
{Lotus luteus.) Flowers all the year, 
in rich moijld. Cuttings. 

Sessile - leaved Bird's -foot Trefoil. 
{Lotus sessilifolius.) Flowers in 
July and August, in sandy loam. 
Cuttings. 

Twiggy Sphaerolobium. [Sphccrolobium 
vimi'neum.) Flowers in May and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Ctittings. 

Horse - shoe Vetch. ( Hippocrejvs 
balearica. ) Flowers in May an* I 
June, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Balearic St. John's Wort. {Hyperi- 
cum balearicum.) Flowers in ]March 
and September, in rich mould. Cut- 
tings. 

Canary St. John's Wort. {Hypericum 
canariense.) Flowers in July and 
September, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Heart-leaved St. John's Wort. (//?/- 
pericum cor di folium.) Flowers in 
March and September, in common 
loam. Cutting's. 

Baxter's ^Mirbelia. {Mirbelia Baxtcri.) 
Flowers in September and August, 
in sand, peat and loam. Layers. 



ix feet high. 

Cyclopis-like Acacia. ( Acacia Cy- 
clopis.) Flowers in April and June, 
in sandy loam and peat. Cuttings 
and seeds. 

Linear Acacia. {Acacia linearis.) Flow- 
ers in 3Iay and June, in sandy loam 
and peat.' Cuttinsrs and seeds. 

Yellowish - green - flowered Anigozan- 
thos. {Anigozanthos flavida.) Flow- 
ers in May and Septemder, in sand 
and peat. "Division of the roots. 

Shore Anthocercis. {A?ithocercis lit- 
torea.) Flowers in May and August, 
in sand and peat. Cuttings. 

Oak-leaved Banksia. {Banksia querci- 
folia.) Flowers in July and Septem- 
ber, in sandy peat. Cuttings and 
seeds. 

Great - flowered Banksia. ( Banksia 
grandis.) Flowers in May and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Cuttings and 
seeds. 

Nodding-flowered Banksia. {Banksia 
nutans.) Flowers in June and Sep- 



226 



THE MIXED GREENHOUSE. 



Lc 



Sc. 



Ev 



Pr 



9 

ii 

h 
J 

Wli 
F 
u 

Ro' 

ri 
Fin 

ii 

We 



teniber, in sandy peat. Cuttings and 
seeds. 

Wood Yirgilia. {Virgilia sylvatica.) 

Flo^vers in Aug-ust and October, in 

sandy peat. Cutting-s and seeds. 
Many-flowered Dryandra. {Dryandra 

florihunda.) Flowers all the year, in 

sandy peat. Seeds. 
Feathered Dryandra. {Dryandra plu- 

mosa.) Flowers all the year, in loam 

and peat. Cuttinsrs. 
Handsome Dryandra. ( Dryandra 

formosa.) Flowers all the year, in 

peat and loam. Cutting^s. 
Chinese Azalea. ( Azalea sineims. ) 

Flowers in May, in sandy peat. 

Layers and cutting-s. 
Yalentian Coronilla. {Coronilla valen- 

tina.) Flowers in ]March and No- 
vember, in rich mould. Cuttings and 

seeds. 

Silvery-leaved Coronilla. ( Coronilla 
argenta.) Flowers in May and June, 
in rich mould. Cuttings and seeds. 

T\^iggy Coronilla. {Coronilla vimi- 
nalis.) Flowers in May and Novem- 
ber, in loam and peat. ' Cuttings and 
seeds. 

Neat Crotalaria. ( Crofalaria pul- 
chella.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Wool-bearing Cytisus. {Cytisiis lani- 
ger.) Flowers in June and July, in 
peat and loam. Seeds. 

Least Edwardsia. {Edwardsia minima.) 
Flowers in May and June, in sand 
and peat. Cuttings. 

Flowery Gardenia. {Gardenia Jlorida.) 
Flowers in July and October,' in loam 
and peat. Cuttings. 

Lotus-leaved Goodia. ( Goodia loti- 
folia.) Flowers in April and July, in 
sandy peat. Seeds. 

Pubescent Goodia. {Goodia puhescens.) 
Flowers in April and July, in sandy 
peat. Seeds. 

Papillose Phylica. {Phylicapapillosa.) 
Flowers in ]May and July, in peat 
and loam. Cuttings. 

Myrtle-leaved Phylica. {Phylica myr- 
tifoUa.) Flowers in May and June, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Anderson's Pittosporum. {Pittospo- 
rum Andersonii.) Flowers in May 
and June, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Sprouty Jasmine. {Jasminum fridi- 
cans.) Flowers in April and October, 
in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Low Jasmine. ( Jasminum Jiumile. ) 
Flowers in June and September, in 
common mould. Layers. 

Many-spiked Mallow.' {Malva poly- 
stachya. ) Flowers in July and 
August, in common loam. ' Cut- 
tings. 



Changeable Gaura. {Gaura mutabilis.) 
Flowers in July and August, in peat 
and loam. Seeds. 

"VMiitish Hermannia. ( Hermannia 
candicans.) Flowers in April and 
June, in loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Many - flowered Hermannia. ( Her- 
mannia multiflora. ) Flowers in 
March and May, in loam and peat. 
Cuttings. 

Anemone-leaved Isopogon. {Isopogon 
anejnonif alius.) Flowers in July and 
August, in sandy peat. Seeds.' 

Long - leaved Isopogon. ( Isopogon 
longifolius.) Flowers in July and 
August, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Moorish Witsenia. {Witsenia maura.) 

Flowers in November and January, 

in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Golden-flowered Sage. {Salvia aurea.) 

Flowers in April and November, in 

peat and loam. Cuttings. 
Lobed Cineraria. {Cineraria lobata.) 

Flowers in June and August, in peat 

and loam. Cuttings. 
Tree Wall -flower. {Cheiranthus ar- 

horeus.) Flowers in April and July, 

in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Changeable Wall-flower. ^ {Cheiranthus 

mutabilis.) Flowers in March and 

May, in loam and peat. Cuttinsrs. 
Narrow - leaved Struthiola. ( Stru- 

thiola angustifolia.) Flowers in May 

and August, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Bramble-stalked Mimosa. {Mimosa 
rubicaulis.) Flowers in June and 
July, in loam and peat. Seeds. 

Long - leaved Restharrow. ( Ononis 
longifolia. ) Flowers in July and 
August, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Tough Protea. {Protea tenajc.) Flowers 
in^February and May, in loam and 
peat. Cuttings. 

Nepal Bladder-Senna. {Colutea ne- 
palensis.) Flowers in August and 
September, in common loam. Seeds. 

Chinese St. John's Wort. {Hypericum 
chinense.) Flowers in March and 
September, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Woolly Pomaden'is. {Pomaderris lani- 
gera.) Flowers in April and May, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Globulose Pomaderris. {Pomaderris 
globiilosa.) Flowers in April and 
June, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Rough Metrosideros. {Metrosideros 
asperus.) Flowers in May and Janu- 
ar^^, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Ribbed Metrosideros. {Metrosideros 
costatus.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 



SELECT LIST OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



227 



Flavescent Nerirnn. ( Nerium flave- 
scens.) Flowers in June and Au^st, 
in rich mould. Cuttino^s. 

Fan-formed-leaved Pentzia. (Pentzia 
JlaheUiformis.) Flowers in May and 
Augnst, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Great-leaved St. John's Wort. {Hy- 
pericim grandifoUum.) Flowers in 



July and August, in sandy loam. 
Cuttings. 

Bundle-flowered St. John's Wort. {Hy- 
pericum florihunclum.) Flowers in 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Shining-leafy St. John's Wort. {Hy- 
pericum foliosum.) Flowers in Au- 
gust, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 



From one to three feet high. 



Various - coloured Bouvardia. {Bou- 
vardia versicolor.) Flowers in July 
and September, in sand, peat, and 
loam. Cuttin^^s. 

Poplar-leaved Cineraria. {Cineraria 
populifoUa.) Flowers in June and 
September, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Headed Viper's Bugloss. ( EcMum 
capitatuni. ) Flowers in June and 
July, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Galega-leaved Swainsonia. ( ^wain- 
sonia galegi folia.) Flowers in July 
and August, in sand and peat. 
Seeds. 

Rigid Indigo. ( Indigofera rigidu. ) 

Flowers in July and August, in 

sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Capitate Mallow. {Malva capitata.) 

Flowers in November and December, 

in common loam. Seeds. 
Rosy Pimelea. ( Pimelea rosea. ) 

Flowers in March and September, in 

sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Cross - leaved Chironia. ( Chironia 

decussata.) Flowers in June and 

September, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Flax-like Chironia. ( Chironia linoi- 



des.) Flowers in July and Septem- 
ber, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Smooth-leaved Stenochilus. {Steno- 
cMlus glaher.) Flowers all the year, 
in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Shrubby Gaura. {Gaura fruticosa.) 
Flowers in August aud October, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Rosy Leadwort. {Plumbago rosea.) 
Flowers in March and July, in rich 
mould. Suckers. 

I Elegant Mallow. ( Malva elegans. ) 

I Flowers in June and September, in 

I common loam. Cuttings. 

I Twiggy Struthiola. ( Struthiola vir- 

I gata.) Flowers in April and August, 

i m sandy peat. Cuttings. 

i Decussate Pimelea. {Pimelea decus- 
sata.) Flowers in May and June, in 

1 sandy peat. Cuttings. 

' Opposite - leaved Milkwort. ( Poly- 

I gala oppositifolia.) Flowers in May 

I and August, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Long-peduncled Hibiscus. (Hibiscus 
pedunculatus.) Flowers in May and 
December, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 



From three to 



Lanceolate Ardisia. {Ardisia lanceo- \ 

lata.) Flowers in July and August, ! 

in peat and loam. Cuttings. ! 
Sea-side Ardisia. {Ardisia littoralis.) \ 

Flowers in July and August, in peat i 

and loam. Cuttings. i 
Phylica - like Grevillea. ( Grevillea \ 

phylicoides.) Flowers in May and ; 

August, in sandy peat. Cuttings. ' 
Trifurcate Grevillea. {Grevillea tri- \ 

furcata.) Flowers in April and Au- ■ 

gust, in sandy peat. Cuttings. ' 
Divaricate Indigo. {Indigofera divari- \ 

cata.) Flowers in July and August, 

in sandy peat. Cuttmgs. 



ixfeet high. 

Scattered-leaved Beaufortia. {Beau- 
fortia sparsa.) Flowers in May and 
July, in sandy peat. Cuttings.' 

Sage-leaved Lantana. {Lantana sal- 
vicefolia.) Flowers in April and No- 
vember, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Lavender - like Lantana. {Lantana 
lavandulacea.) Flowers in June and 
September, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Elegant Humea. {Humea elegans.) 

Flowers in June and October, in 

sandy peat. Seeds. 
Large-calyxed ]M allow. {Malva cabj- 

QL 2 



228 



THE MIXED GREENHOUSE. 



cina.) Flowers in March and Au- 
gust, in common loam. Seeds. 

Capitate Mallow. {Malva capitata.) 
Flowers in November and December, 
in common loam. Seeds. 

Marsh Melaleuca. {Melaleuca palu- 
dosa.) Flowers in July and August, 
in sand, loam, and peat. Cuttings. 

Handsome Protea. {Protea formosa.) 
Flowers in May and June, in peat 
and loam. Seeds. 

Neat Protea. ( Protea pulchella. ) 
Flowers in March and August, in 
sand and loam. Layers. 

Stipulated Muraltia. (Mural fia stipu- 
lacea.) Flowers in April and Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Pubescent Struthiola. ( Struthiola 



?.) Flowers in April and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings, 
Sweet-scented Nerium. {Nerium odo- 
rum.) Flowers in July and August, 
in rich mould. Layers. 
Mediate Spha^rolobium. ( Sph<erolO' 
Mum medium.) Flowers in January 
and August, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Scented Clerodendrum. ( Cleroden- 
drum odoratum.) Flowers in No- 
vember and December, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. 

Cochinchinese St. John's Wort. {Hy- 
pericum cochinchinense.) Flowers in 
July and August, in common mould. 
Cuttings. 



Loi 

I 

t 

See 
i 

f, 

V 

Pre 



P 
She 
.r 
J 
L 
Wh 
a 
ti. 
Wh 
F 

C( 

Sm* 

ir 
His 
M 
Ji 
Wh 
F 
m 
Roo 



We? 



Froyn one to three feet high. 



Decussated Beaufortia. {Beaufortia 
decussaia.) Flowers in May and 
July, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Keel-leaved Beaufortia. {Beaufortia 
carinata.) Flowers in May and July, 
in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Three-leaved Bouvardia. {Bouvardia 
triphylla. ) Flowers in April and 
November, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Club - leaved Calothamnus. ( Calo- 
thamnus clavata.) Flowers in July 
and September, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Scarlet Gaura. ( Gaura coccinea. ) 
Flowers in August and October, in 
sandy loam. Seeds. 



Mexican Sage. (Salvia Mexicana.) 
Flowers in May and July, in peat 
and loam. Cuttings. 

Scarlet - flowered Sage. (Salvia coc- 
cinea.) Flowers in April and Octo- 
ber, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Pretty Sage. (Salvia pulchella.) Flow- 
ers in October and February, in 
' sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Resupinate Coral Tree. (ErythriTia 
resupinata. ) Flowers in January 
and September, in rich mould. Cut- 
tings. 

Handsome Lechenaultia. ( Lechen- 
aultia formosa.) Flowers in June, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 



Fram three to six feet Ugh. 



Four-cleft Calothamnus. (Calotham- 
nus quadrifida. ) Flowers in July 
and September, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Villous Calothamnus. (Calothamnus 
villosa.) Flowers in July and Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Slender-leaved Calothamnus. (Calo- 
thamnus gracilis.) Flowers in July 
and September, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Scarlet Lantana. (Lantana coccinea.) 

Flowers in June and September, in 

peat and loam. Cuttings. 
Caffrarian Coral Tree. ( Erythrina 

caffra.) Flowers in August and Oc- 

tobei", in loam and peat. Seeds. 



Fragrant Mallow. (Malva fragrans.) 
Flowers in May and July, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. 

Pine - leaved Stenanthera. ( Stenan- 
thera pinifolia.) Flowers in May and 
Julv, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Splendid Melaleuca. (Melaleuca ful- 
gens.) Flowers in July and Septem- 
ber, in sand, loam, and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Lily - flovfered Hibiscus. ( Hibiscus 
liliiflorus.) Flowers in June and 
July, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Spotted Stenochilus. ( Stenochilus 
maculatus.) Flowers in April and 
May, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Long-leaved Stenochilus. (Stenochilus 



SELECT LIST OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



229 



longifolius. Flowers in April and 

July, in sandy peat. Cutting-s. 
Splendid Sag-e, ( Salvia splendens. ) 

Flowers in October and January, in 

common loam. Cuttings. 
Scarlet Protea. ( P rote a coccinea. ) 

Flowers in ^March and August, in 

sandy loam. Seeds. 



i Buffalo Burchellia. {BurcTiellia huba- 
I Una.) Flowers in May and Jmie, in 

rich mould. Cuttings'. 
Cape Burchellia. {BurcheUia capemis.) 

Flowers in March, in peat and loam. 

Cuttings. 



From one to 

Jasmine-like Chironia. (Chironiajas- 
minoides.) Flowers in April and July, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Lychnis - like Chironia. ( Chironia 
'lychnoides.) Flowers in May and 
July, in sandy peat. Cuttings'. 

Neat Cineraria.' {Cineraria pidcheUa.) 
Flowers in February and May, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Bloody-leaved Cineraria. {Cineraria 
cruenta.) Flowers in February and 
May, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Dark-flowered Erinus. {Erinus tristis.) 
Flowers in May and June, in sandy 
loam. Cutting's. 

Splendid Protea. {Protea spedosa.) 
Flowers in March and June, in sandy 
loam. Seeds. 

Dark-purple Bii*d.'s-foot Trefoil. {Lo- 
tus atropurpureus. ) Flowers in 
April and December, in sandy loam. 
Cuttings. 

C^pe Virgilia. {Virgilia capensis.) 



three feet high. 

Flowers in July and August, in peat 
and loam. Cuttings. 
Purple Lantana. {Lant ana purpurea.) 
Flowers in June and September, in 
peat and loam. Cuttings. 
Purpurascent Crotalaria. {CrotaJaria 
purpurascens.) Flowers in July and 
August, in sandy loam. Seeds. 
Small-petaled Cuphea. {Cuphea mi- 
. cropetala. ) Flowers in July and 
; August, in sandy loam. Cutti'ngs. 
i Spotted-stalked Gloxinia. {Gloxinia 
I maculata.) Rowers in July and Oc- 
I tober, in sandy peat. Cuttings, 
j Long-leaved Pi'btea. {Protea longi- 
folia.) Flowers in March and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Seeds. 
. Show}' Mirbelia. {Mirbelia speciosa.) 
j Flowers in May and July, in sand, 
I loam, and peat.' Cuttings', 
j Large-flowered ^Mirbelia. ( Mirbelia 
grand (flora.) Flowers in May and 
I June, in peat and loam. Cutti'ngs. 



From three to 

Pi*oud Viper's Bugloss. {Echium fas- 
tuosum.) Flowers in April and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cutting's. 

Purple Thomas'ia. {Thomasia^ purpu- 
rea,) Flowers in April and July, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings. ! 

Show>^ Milkwort. {Poly gala speciosa.) i 
Flowers in March and October, in j 
sandy peat. Cuttings. ' 

Fine-leaved ^l\Wv,-on.^{Pohjgalatenui- \ 
folia. Rowers in April and June, in i 
sandy peat. Cuttings. " j 

Coroniila-leaved Swaiiisonia. {Swain- \ 



IX feet high. 

soiiia coronillifoUa.) Flowers in July 

and August, in sandy peat. Cuttings 

and seeds. 
Pleasing purple-coloured Indigo. {In- 

digofera amcena.) Flowers in March 

and April, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Mixed INIuraltia. Qluraltia mixta.) 

Flowers aU the year, in sandy peat. 

Cuttings. 

Diffuse Miiraltia. {Muraltia diffusa.) 
Rowers aU the year, in sandy peat. 
Cuttings. 



PINK. 

From one to three feet high. 



Cape Aitonia. ( Aitonia capensis. ) 
Flowers in April and September, in 
rich mould. Cuttings. 



Sutfmticose Flax. {Linumsuffruticosa.) 
Flowers in August, in peat and loam. 
Cuttings. 



230 



THE MIXED GREENHOUSE. 



From three to six feet high. 



Thyrse-flowered Ardisia. ( Ardisia 
thyrsiflora.) Flowers all the year, in 
peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Pleasing' Gardenia. {Gardenia amoena.) 
Flowers in July and August, in loam 
and peat. Cuttings. 

Dilated-leaved Mirbelia. {Mirbelia 
dilatata.) Flowers in May and Au- 
gust, in sand, loam, and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Five-flowered Enkantlius. {Enkanthus 
quinquejlora.) Flowers in February 
and September, in loam and peat. 
Cuttings. 



Netted Enkantlius. (Enkanthus re- 
ticulata.) Flowers in January and 
February, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Great-flowered Viper's Bugloss. (Echi- 
um grandijiorum.) Flowers in June 
and July, in sandy peat. Seeds. 

Shrubby Viper's Bugloss. (Echium 
fruticosum.) Flowers in May and 
June, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Maple-leaved Hibiscus. ( Hibiscus 
acerifolius. Flowers in March and 
June, in sandy loam. Cuttings, 



ORANGE. 

From one to three feet high. 



Silvery Hermannia. {Hermannia ar- 
gent ea.) Flowers in May and July, 
in loam and peat. Cuttings. 



Baxter's Lechenaultia. {Lechenaultia 
Baxteri.) Flowers in April and July, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 



From three to six feet high. 

Flame-flowered Hermannia. {Hermannia flammea.) Flowers all the year, in loam 
and peat. Cuttings. 



BROWN. 

From one to three feet high. 



Rufous Anigozanthus. {Anigozanthus 
rufa.) Flowers in May and Septem- 
ber, in loam and peat. Division. 

Mangles's Anigozanthus. {Anigozan- 
thus Manglesii.) Flowers in May 



and June, in loam and peat. Divi- 
sion. 

St. James's Island Lotus. {Lotus Jaco- 
bceus.) Flowers all the year, in^rich 
mould. Cuttings. 



From one to three feet high. 



Smooth - stalked Viper's Bugloss. 
{Echium laevigatum.) Flowers in 
July and August, in sandy loam. 
Cuttings. 

Involucred Psoralea. {Psoralea invo- 
lucrata.) Flowers in June and July, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Axillary-flowered Psoralea. {Psoralea 
axillai'is.) Flowers in June and Jidy, 
in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Hair^^ Gloxinia^ {Gloxinia hirsuta.) 



Flowers in June and August, in sandy 
peat. Division of the roots. 

Cape Leadwort. {Plumbago capensis.) 
Flowers in November, in loam and 
peat. Cuttings. 

Filiform Roella. {Roella filiformis.) 
Flowers in June and September, in 
loam and peat. Seeds. 

Willow - leaved Angelonia. {Ange- 
lonia salicaricefolia.) Flowers in Au- 
gust, in common loam. Cuttings. 



SELECT LIST OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



231 



BLUE . 

From three to six feet high. 



Violet-coloured Prostanthera. {Pros- 
tanthera violacea.) Flowers in May 
and August, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Toothed Prostanthera. {Prostanthera 
denticulata.) Flowers in June and 
August, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 



Silvery Viper's Bugloss. (Echium 
argenteum.) Flowers in July and 
August, in peat and loam. Seeds. 

African Red Wood. {Ceanothus afri- 
canus.) Flowers in March and April, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 



THE CONSERVATORY. 



The Conservatory differs from the greenhouse only in the plants of the 
former being in general planted out into beds prepared for them, T\'hile 
those of the latter are ahvays kept in pots and placed upon stages. The 
general intention of the former is also to contain large or fine specimens, 
^.vhile in the latter the plants are usually, and always ought to be, kept 
pretty small, and young by repeated propagation. The most proper situa- 
tion for the conservator)" is either in the flower-garden, where it should 
be a detached structm-e, or adjoining to the mansion, of which it may be 
said to form a part. 

The principal object to be kept in view should be the admittance of 
abundance of air and light. For the former purpose all the sashes 
ought to be made moveable, so that the roof and sides may be taken 
away at pleasure, and for the latter the house, if not glass on all sides, at 
least the front and ends should be so. The most absurd and extravagant 
notions have been entertained of w^hat a first-rate conservatory, ought to 
be ; structures have been projected covering several acres of gi'ound, and 
of a capacity almost sufficient to admit of the tallest exotics attaining 



CONSERVATORY AT THE GRANGE. 



233 



their native size. Building glass-houses so lofty, as we have already ob- 
served, vre cannot approve of ; for were expense no consideration, and were 
it possible to secure them against the effects of -^Ind, which it is not, the 
plants when first planted would be so far from the glass that they woidd 
soon become dra^vn up, and, however lofty the house may be, they would 
endeavour to reach the top, while then- lower pai cs would present only 
slender naked stems, presenting no beauty whatever. The idea of exhi- 
biting exotic trees of their full size in this country is absurd, and can 
answer no useful end, even if practicable. If exotics are well cidtivated 
in houses not exceeding twenty or twenty-five feet in height, all that is 
reasonably expected from them may be obtained. 




Elevation of the Conservatorif at the Grange. 



The dimensions of the Conservatory at the Grange, in Hampshire, one 
of the seats of Lord Ashburton, the interior of which is represented at 
the head of this section, and which was designed by C. R. Cockerell, 
Esq., is seventy feet in length, forty-six feet wide, and twenty-one 
feet high. The situation of this spacious area is adjoining the apartments 
dedicated to the ladies, the \Nlndows of whose apartments are chrected 
towards the Conservatory. This house, in regard to architectural and horti- 
cultural proportions, two important points in similar structures, but seldom 
agreeing together, or with a due regard to the various beai'ings of situa- 
tion and cuTumstances, is, in our opinion, the most complete thing of the 
kind that we have seen, either Mn this country or on the continent. We 
do not object to the extent of area covered with glass for conservatory 
purposes when the height does not exceed twenty-five feet, where the 
proprietor chooses to display his taste and spend his fortune in such 
rational luxuries, but it is when greater height is attempted that we 
object to them, as being both extravagant and useless. A glance at the 



234 



THE CONSERVATORY. 



annexed diagram, which represents the section of the above splendid 

house, will at once show how 
easy it would be, where expense 
is a secondary consideration, to 
cover any extent of ground, and 
to have an exotic garden in whicli 
perpetual spring could be main- 
tained. The roof, which in this 
example is double, and which 
might be continued to any ex- 
tent, is supported by cast-iron 
hollow columns, a g, which also 
carry off the water which falls on 
the roof, into drains properly 
placed for its reception, as at ^, 
and which, after supplying an im- 
mense reservoir under the ground 
for the supply of the house, as 
well as for use in the event of 
fire, or any ^ther scarcity of water, 
empties the remainder beyond the 
limits of the buildings. These 
columns are highly ornamented with mouldings, and have wires fastened 




ELEVATION OF A CONSERVATORY. 



235 



to them, as at e, for the purpose of training creeping plants to them. 
The back and front walks, e e, are four feet nine inches broad, and the 
centre, or principal one, c, six feet and a half. These walks are covered 
with an arched roof, formed of double plates of roUed iron,///, between 
which is left a space of two inches, which confines a stratum of air, to 
prevent the escape of heat, or the admission of cold. Over these plates 
is placed an iron grating for a safe walk, to enable the operatives to repair 
the glass, give air, &c. This house was heated in a peculiar manner by 
Mr. Sylvester, either steam or hot water being applicable to that purpose ; 
the pipes being placed under the walks, as at ^ 5 I, and the ca\4ty a a 
served as a resei-voir for containing heated air, which was admitted into 
the house as required. 

In regard to form and size, very much ought to be left to the taste of 
the owner ; we would only here remark, that all curvilinear shapes, par- 
ticularly roofs, are objectionable, on account of the great extra expense 
in their erection, and the difficulty of ventilating them thoroughly. 

The annexed elevation, sections, and ground-plan represent what we 
consider to be another very good model of a Conservator)^, upon a differ- 
ent principle ; and as such a house really exists, and has been found to 
answer every purpose intended, we therefore offer it with the greater 
confidence. 




,9 .... ^ ^ 3o_ 



The length of this house is forty feet, eighteen feet wide, and eighteen 
high. The ground plan shows it as heated by two furnaces, one placed at 
each end of the back part; the flues, which are under the floor, pass towards 
the front, and parallel to it, until they meet in the middle of the house, 



236 



THE CONSERVATORY. 



when they both cross towards the back wall, and the smoke of both 
escapes in one cliimney, or a hot-water boiler being placed in the centre 




of the back wall would answer equally well, the pipes extending both 
to the right hand and to the left, in the same situation as the flues are 
shown. The heat, whether from flues or hot-water pipes, is admitted 
into the house through ventilators placed in the floor, which can be 




5 iO 20 30 

1 . . . , I ■ , . . ; ; : i 



opened and shut at pleasm-e. The floor is paved with stone, and on it is 
set the plants, which should be large and well-grown specimens, planted 



PLAX OF A COXSEEVATORY. 



237 



either in large vases, of which the annexed are examples, pots, hexes, 
or tubs ; hut these latter should be of the ornamental sort, and ^vhen small 
specimens grown in common flower pots are introduced, these may 
be set in vases, or in highly ornamental flower stands. It is the usual 
method of aiTanging consen-atoiy plants, to plant them in beds of 
mould prepared for them, but by this means they soon grow too large, 
and the coarser, and often the most worthless, grow up rapidly and 
destroy the more rare and valuable, which frequently are of much more 
slender habits. 

Conservatory plants planted in beds, not only grow too luxuriantly, and 
after two or three years require to be reduced in size by severe pruning, 
or removed altogether, but they do not flower so well as they would do 
in pots of a proper size, neither can they be removed in case of sickness, 
or at those periods when they are out of flower, or set in the open air 
during summer. 

We admit that boxes, tubs, vases, &:c., be they ever so ornamental, will 
be objectionable if in too great a number, or of too large a size. To remedy 
this objection, the floor may be hollow and covered v»ith a neat orna- 
mental iron grating, instead of pavement, made in convenient pieces, so 
as to admit of the larger boxes, tubs, <&c., being placed under it, and 
having the smaller plants in vases, distributed through the house, so as 
to produce the most elegant and pleasing effect. 

To those, however, who prefer to plant out their Conservator)- plants in 
a permanent bed, the following observations may be usefid. 

The whole interior of the house should be excavated to the depth of 
four feet : below this depth, and in the centre of the bed or beds, a 
draui (wide cross section, page 234,) should be made, to permit the 
superfluous water to escape : over this drain, and also over the whole 
surface of the floor of the beds, a layer of broken stones, flints, brick- 
bats, or similar matter, should be laid to the depth of ten or 
twelve inches, upon which the mould for the plants to grow in should 
be placed. In proceeding to prepare the bed, it will be weU to com- 
»mence by placing a layer of turf, previously prepared, by being cut 
and diied so as to become sweetened, but not rotted so as to fall in pieces. 
The intention of this layer of turf is to prevent the finer particles of the 
compost soil fi-om being washed down into the drainage below. This 
turf should be placed ^Tith the grassy side undermost, and closely jointed 
and beat down. Upon this the following compost soil should be laid, 
and which should have been in a state of preparation several months 



238 



THE COXSERVATORY. 



pre^"ious, by being frequently tamed over, mixed, and sweetened, — light 
yellow loam and sandy peat in equal parts, excepting where camellias or 
oranges are intended to be planted. Should the loam rather incline to 
be strong, or the peat deficient of a proper portion of sand, then both 
deficiencies may be readily made up by the addition of a sufficient por- 
tion of fine, shai'p river sand. The beds being filled ^vith the above com- 
post, regularly and moderately trodden down during the operation of 
filling, are then ready for the reception of the plants. Vie need hardly 
remind the most inexperienced that the mould should be as dr\* as 
possible at the time it is put into the beds, and also that a proper allow- 
ance of depth be allowed for settlement, which will be more or less, 
according to the manner in which it is trodden down during the opera- 
tion. For a bed of the above depth an allowance of about six inches 
^vill in most cases be found sufficient, and indeed it is better always that 
the conservatory beds should appear rather high and full than low and 
under the floor level, a defect which cannot be readily rectified after- 
wards, as any attempt to raise it by the addition of more mould would 
bury the roots of the plants too deep, a circumstance greatly to be 
guarded against. 

In Conservatories where oranges or camellias are intended to be planted 
out, a difference of soil is absolutely necessary, because for the former it 
can scarcely be too strong and rich if sufficiently porous to admit of extra 
humidity passing freely through it, and for the latter, a mellow, light, 
rather rich loam is to be prefered. Were either of these plants to occupy 
the whole bed of a conservatory, the required soil could be readily afforded 
them ; but as they in general are only introduced as part of consen atory 
collections, it will be better to plant them in groups, either along the 
back of the bed, or at its ends, as circumstances and the good taste of 
the owner may suggest ; in either case the soil should be adapted to them, 
which it could not be done so well if they were planted indiscriminately 
amongst the other plants. 

In regard to the management of Conservator}- plants, the whole may he 
included in a few words. Air cannot be too freely admitted to them 
even during winter, so that the temperature does not fall below forty 
degrees, nor should it be by any means allowed to exceed fifty degrees by 
artificial means. This may be said to be the great art of growing Con- 
servatory plants well. In regard to water, where the trees are planted 
out, great caution must be paid that they neither become too dry at th^ 
roots, or soddened with an excess of it. ^yhen kept in large pots, vases, cr 



APPLICATION OF WATER. 



239 



boxes, which is certainly the most eligible plan, there is much less danger 
in faUing into either extreme, and the evil, should it even exist, is much 
easier rectified. Frequent watering by the application of the syringe is 
}>eneficial in a twofold light : it imitates both rain and wind, first by 
refreshing and cleansing the foHage and branches, and by the movement 
which the force of the water causes, strengthens and invigorates the 
shoots and stems. During summer, this species of watering should be 
applied twice or thrice a week, and during winter, in mild weather, once 
a week or fortnight. Much has been said upon the advantages of intro- 
ducing perforated pipes through the roof for the purpose of suppMng 
water to the leaves and branches ; but, however beneficial or economical 
this plan may be when used in large houses in which tropical plants are 
grown, certain it is that the same beneficial effects would not be realised 
in any house in which plants of more temperate climates are cultivated. 
In respect to the majority of tropical plants, water can scarcely be given 
in too great abundance, because it is accompanied with a proportional 
degree of heat ; but the case is wholly different with greenhouse and 
conservatory plants, which are more often injured by an excess than by 
a want of that element. 

For the proper distribution of water over the leaves and branches of 
Conservatory plants, it will be necessary to be provided with a small port- 




able water engine, and those of John Reads, 35, Regent's Circus, Piccadilly, 
111 ay be recommended \^'ith confidence. The annexed figures represent 



240 



TKE CONSERVATORY. 



two small portable engines, that may be used by a lady with the greatest 
ease : they are placed in a pail, or common w^atering-pot of water, and dis- 
charge their stream from a powerful current to a gentle dew-fall. The 
same ingenious engineer has also invented another useful engine for 
similar purposes, which is fixed in a six-gallon tub, or vessel. By this 
engine, a column of water may be throw^n to a distance of from forty or 
fifty feet. The valves of this latter machine being of soUd metal, 
it can never get out of repair, at least for many years, if not wan- 
tonly or carelessly destroyed. Either of these we should say is 
indispensable in a Conservatory, and is neither of them expensive to 
purchase. 

With the exception of climbing plants, we should prefer to see all others 
grown in boxes, tubs, vases, or pots, according to their various sizes, 
kinds, and habits. 

Much judgment is required in the judicious selection of Conservatory 
plants, and it will be found that a much happier effect can be produced 
by a well chosen few than by a heterogeneous mixture of many species. 
If the intention be to have a profusion of bloom through as long a period 
of the year as possible, then fine, free-flowering kinds, not of very robust 
habits, should be chosen, and these which flower early in spring, through 
the summer, autumn, and even in winter, should be studied. Too many 
of one genus should not be introduced, as producing much less variety, 
neither should too many of anyJparticular colour be admitted, for the very 
same reason. Great attention should be paid to procure, in the first instance, 
as perfect specimens as possible, and that these should be kept in that 
state by being allowed plenty of room, and frequently turned tow^ards the 
points from which most light proceeds. Some discrimination is also 
necessary in their arrangement, so that all deUcate and sun-loving plants 
be placed in front, while those that can dispense with solar influence for 
a longer period, or can accommodate themselves to its partial absence, 
should be placed in the rear, middle, or in those situations farthest from 
the light. An attention to cleanliness is absolutely necessary, even for 
the welfare of the plants, independently of the appearance of the house. 
All deceased, sickly, or deformed plants should be excluded from this 
kind of structure, and the very operations of watering, cleansing, and 
arranging should be carried on early in the morning, or late in the evening, 
so that during the day the whole may produce at all times a perfect 
whole, and be as fit for the inspection of the owner as his drawing-r jom 
or picture-gallery. 



SPECIMENS OF VASES. 



241 



The Conservator}', being the highest in grade of all plant-structures, 
requires the greatest nicety and care in keeping ; a dead leaf, insect, or 
broken or displaced branch should at no time appear. The propagation 
of Conservatory plants, so as to secure a succession, is a work of some 
importance, and Trill require to be performed at various seasons, as the 
cuttings should be put in just when the young shoots begin to assume 
a ripe, brownish colour, and are acquiring a firm texture. There are, 
however, many species of plants which cannot be propagated by cuttings, 
but which must either be increased by grafting, budding, layering, inarch- 
ing, or by the more natural method of sowing the seeds. There are also 
many kinds which may be propagated by dividing the roots. 

The plants which should be admitted into the Conservator}^ may be 
selected from those already enumerated in the foregoing pages, and from 
amongst them a verj- complete selection may be formed. 





R 



242 



SELECT LIST OF CONSEKVATORY PLANTS. 

Those marked (*) are already eiuimerated in tJte Mixed Greenliouse, 
Heathery, ^-c. 



YELLOW. 



Wingr-stalked Acacia. {Acacia aJaia.) 
Flowers in April and June, in sandy 
loam and peat. Cuttings, but much 
better by seeds. 

*Deceivinff Acacia. {Acacia decipiens.) 

Hatcliet-sliaped-leaved Acacia. {Aca- 
cia dolalrriformis.) Rowers in April 
and July, in sandy loam and peat. 
Cuttings and seeds. 

Simple-leaved-armed Acacia. {Acacia 
armata.) Flowers in April and June, 
in sandy loam and peat. Cuttings 
and seeds. 

*Pendulous Acacia. {Acacia pendida.) 

Juniper-leared Acacia. {Acacia Juni- 
perina.) Rowers in 3Iarcli and June, 
in sandy loam and peat. Cuttings 
and seeds. 

Brown's Acacia. {Acacia Brownii.) 
Flowers in Alarch and August, in 
sandy loam and peat. Cuttings and 
seeds. 

"Prostrate Acacia. ^ Acacia pros'rafa.) 
*CIammy - leaved Acacia. i .:iL c7c-/(7 
■ciscosa). 

DaAdesia-leaved Acacia, ^Acrcir/ Da- 
riesiafolia. Flowers in ->Iay and 
July, "in sandy loam and peat. ' Cut- 
tings and seeds. 

Reed-leaved Acacia. (Acacia calami- 
folia.) Rowers in May and June, in 
'sandy loam and peat. ' Cuttings and 
seeds. 

Hooked-leaved Acacia. (Acacia un- 
cijiata.) Flowers in April and June, 
in sandy loam and peat. Cuttings 
and seeds. 

*Yew -leaved Acacia. {Acacia taxi- 
folia:) 

*Cyclopis -like Acacia. {Acacia Cy- 
clopia.) 



*Kindred Acacia. (Acacia afinis.) 
I Heav^--smelling Acacia. (Acacia gra- 
] vecilens.) Rowers in April and June, 
j in sandy loam and peat. Seeds. 

Impressed Acacia, i Acacia impre^sa.) 
I Flowers in April and June, in sandy 
loam and peat. Cuttings and seeds. 
1 Clothed Acacia. ( Acacia vestita. ) 
: Rowers in April and July, in sandy 
i loam and peat. Seeds. 

Sweet-scented Acacia. {AcacM tmtn- 
' olois.) Rowers in February and 
! June, in sandy loam and peat.' Cut- 
; tings and seeds. 

; Whitened Acacia. {Acacia dealbata.) 
Flowers in ]NIarch and June, in 
sandy loam and peat. Cuttings and 

; seeds. 

: "Whorl-leaved Acacia. {Acncia verti- 
cillata.) Rowers in March and May, 
in sandy loam and peat. Cuttings 

and seeds. 
ShaiT)-cedar Acacia. ( Acacia ojty- 
\ cedrus.) Rowers in April and June, 
I in sandy loam and peat. Cuttings 
i and seeds. 

j Longest-leaved Acacia. {Accicia lon- 
\ gQ-sima.) Rowers in May and June, 
' in sandy loam and peat.' Cutting's 

and seeds, 
i Bundle-iiowered Acacia. {Acacia flori- 
I bunda.) Flowers in May and June, 
I in sandy loam and peat. Cuttings 
I and seeds. 

j Sophora - podded Acacia. ( Acacia 
\ sophorce.) Rowers in April and 
' June, in sandy loam and peat. Cut- 
tings and seeds. 
*Rue-lea^"ed Acacia. ( Acacia ruUe- 
folia.) 



SELECT LIST OF CONSERVATORY PLANTS. 



243 



Pretty Acacia. (Acacia puIcheUa.) 
Flowers in April and July, in sandy 
loam and peat. Cutting-s and seeds. 

Crest - flowered Acacia. (Acacia lo- 
phantha.) Rowei^s in May and July, 
in sandy loam and peat.' Cuttings 
and seeds. 

Downy-stemmed Acacia. (Acacia pu- 
bescens.) Flowers in Marcli and 
June, in sandy loam and peat. Cut- 
ting's and seeds. 

^Yellowish-g-reen - flowered Anigozan- 
tlios . (An igozan th os fla vida. ) " 

♦Shore Antliocercis. (AntJiocercis lit- 
iorale.) 

Chinese Azalea. {Azalea c?dnensis.) 
Flowers in ^lay, in sandy peat. 
Layers. 

Neat -flowered Banksia. {BayiJisia pul- 
chella.) Flowers in July and Sep- 
tember, in loam and peat. Cuttiuirs. 

Heath - leaved Banksia. ( Banksia 
ericifoJia.) Flowers all the year, in 
sandy peat. Cutting-s. 

Spinulose Banksia. iBatiJisia spinu- 
losa.) Flowers in May and Decem- 
ber, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Hill Banksia. '{BaiMa coUina.) Flow- 
ers in May and August, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings. 

Taller Banksia." ( BanTisia eJafior. ) 
Flowers in May and August, in loam 
and peat. Cuttings. 

Sea-side Banksia. (Banhsia Uftoralls.) 
Flowers in August and September, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Marginate Banksia. ' {BanAsia tnar- 
ginata.) Flowers in May and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Graftinof. 

Entire-leaved Banksia. {Banksia in- 
tegrifoUa. ) Rowers in July and 
October, in loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Well - matched Banksia. ( Banhsia 
compar.) Flowers in Ausaist and 
September, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Verticillate Banksia. {Banksia verti- 
cillata.) Flowers in July and Octo- 
ber, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Mediate Banksia. {Banksici media.) 
Flowers in ^lay and Aus^ust, in loam 
and peat. Cuttina'S. 

Saw-leaved Banksia. ( Banksia ser- 
rata.) Flowers in July and Septem- 
ber, in sandv peat. Seeds. 

Dryandra - like Banksia. {Banksia 
diyandroides.) Rowers in Julv and 
September, in loam and peat. ' Cut- 
tings. 

Showy Banksia. {BanJisia speciosa.) 

Flowers in Mavand August, in loam, 

sand, and peat. Cuttings. 
Bearded Borbonia. ( Borbojua bar- 

haia.) Flowers in Julv and August, 

in peat and loam. Seeds. 



Three-nen-ed Borbonia. ( Boi bonin 
trinerva.) Rowers in July and Au- 
gust, in peat and loam. Seeds. 

Lance - leaved Borbonia. (Borbonia 
lanceolata.) Rowers in July and 
August, in peat and loam. ' Cut- 
jtings. 

AYave - leaved Borbonia. ( Borbonia 
'undidata.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Heart '- leaved Borbonia. (Borhonia 
cordaia.) Flowers in July and Sef/- 
tember, in peat and loam. Seeds. 

Xotch- leaved Borbonia. {Borhonia 
crenafa.) Rowers in June and Au- 
gust, in loam and peat. Seeds. 

*Sword Bossisa. (Bossi<ea ensata.) 

*Round-leaved Bossiaea. {Bossidea ro- 
tundifolia). 

*Small-leaved Bossiaea. {Bossicea mi- 
cropJivUa.) 

*Leafy Bossiaea.) (Bossicea foliosa.) 

*Box-leaved Bossiaea. (Bossicea buxi- 
folia.) 

Saw-leaved Callicoma. (CaUicomaser- 
ratifolia.) Flowers in May and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Spear - leaved Callistachys. ( Callis- 
tacfiys lanceolata.) Rowers in June 
and August, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Ovate -leaved Callistachys. ( Callis- 
tacJiys ovata.) Rowers in June and 
August, in sandv peat. Cuttings. 

Wedge-leaved Callistachys. ( Callis- 
tachys cunea.ta.) Flowers in June 
and August, in sandy loam. Cut- 
I tings. 

I Toad-flax-leaved Callistachys. (Cal- 
I listachys Unaricefolia.) Flowers in 
i June and August, in sandy peat, 
j Cutting's. 
TVedofe-shaped Candollea. (CandoUea 
cuneiforrnis. ) Rowers in Au2nist 
and September, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

*Rhomb -leaved Chorizema. ( CJiori- 
■ zema rhomhea.) 

; *Arborescent Crotalaria. (Crotalarin 
arborescens.) 
♦Genista - like Cyclopia. ( Cyclopia 
genistoides.) 
i *Galium - like Cyclopia. ( Cyclopia 
i Qalioides.) 
*Broad-leaved C\-clopia. ( Cyclopia 
latifoUa.) 

*Racemulose Da\iesia. (Baviema race- 
\ mulosa.) 

I *Small-umbelled Daviesia. (Daviesia 
i umbellidata.) 

' *Thick - leaved Daviesia. (Daviesia 
I incrassata.) 

, *Xeedle - leaved Da\iesia. (Daviesia 

acicularis.) 

R 2 



244 



THE CONSERVATORY. 



*rurze- leaved Daviesia. (Daviesia 
uUcina.) 

* Juniper - like Daviesia. {Daviesia 

juniperina.) 
*Mimosa - like Daviesia. ( Daviesia 

mimosoides.) 
*Broad - leaved Daviesia. ( Daviesia 

latifoUa.) 

*Squarrose Daviesia. {Daviesia squar- 
rosa.) 

*Ck)rdate-leaved Daviesia. {Daviesia 
cor data.) 

*Winged Daviesia. {Daviesia alafa.) 
*Rusli-like Daviesia. {Daviesia jun- 
cea.) 

Bundle-flowered Dillw^mia, {Dillwynia 
floribiinda,) and all the genera. 

Many-flowered Dryandra. {Dryandra 
florihunda.) Flowers all the year, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings and seeds. 

Armed Dryandra. {Dryandra armata.) 
Flowers all the year, in loam and 
peat. Cutting's. 

Handsome Dryandra. ( Dryandra 
formosa.) Flowers all the year, in 
loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Feathered Dryandra. ( Dryandra 
plnmosa.) Flowers in February and 
December, in loam and peat. ' Cut- 
tings. 

Obtuse-leaved Dryandra. {Dryandra 
ohtusa.) Flowers in July and Sep- 
tember, in loam and peat. Cuttings. 

AVhite-leaved Dryandra. {Dryandra 
7iivea.) Flowers in July and Sep- 
tember, in loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Long -leaved Dryandra. {Dryandra 
longifoUa.) Flowers all the year, in 
sandy peat. Seeds. 

Baxter's Dryandra. {Dryandra Bax- 
ter i.) Flowers in March and May, 
in loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Fine - leaved Dryandra. ( Dryandra 
tenuifoUa.) Flowers in March and 
May, in sandy peat. Seeds. 

Nervose Dryandra. {Dryandra ner- 
vom.) Flowers in July and Septem- 
ber, in loam and peat.* Cuttings. 

Obcordate-leaved Euchilus. {EucMIus 
obcordatus.) Flowers in March and 
June, in sandy loam and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

*Two-lobed Gastrolobium. {Gastro- 
lobiian bilobum.) 



♦Multiform Gompholobium, {Gompho- 
lobium polymorphum,) and all the 
rest of the genus. 

Lotus-leaved Goo^Xm, {Goodia lotifolia^) 
and all the rest of the genus. 

Sulphur-coloured Grevillea. {GrevUlea 
sidphurea.) Flowers in April and 
September, in loam and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

*Broom-like Jacksonia. ( Jacksonia 
scoparia.) 

Rusty Lasiopetalum. { Lasiopetalum 
fer'rugineinn.) Flowers in April and 
July, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Rough Metrosideros. {Mefrosideros 
hispidus.) Flowers in May and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Narrow-leaved Metrosideros. (Metro- 
sideros angustifolius. ) Flowers in 
May and June, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

*Arborescent Oxylobium, {Oxylohium 
arborescens,) and the rest" of the 
genus. 

Fulvid Pittosporum. ( Pittosporum 
fulvida.) Flowers in April and May, 
in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Woolly Pittosporum. ( Pittosporum 
tom 'entosum.) Flowers in April and 
October, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Rusty-leaved Pittosporum. {Pitto- 
sporum ferrugineum. ) Flowers in 
February and May, in sandy peat. 
Cuttings. 

*Three-iobed Podolobium, {Podolo- 
bium trilobatum,) and the rest of the 
genus. 

Stripped Rush-broom. ( Viminaria 
deiiudata.) Flowers in June and 
September, in sandy peat. Cuttings 
and seeds. 

Twiggy Sphaerolobium. ( SplKS-rolo- 
biiim vimineum.) Flowers in ?,Iay 
and August, in sandy peat. Cuttings 
and seeds. 

Queen's Strelitzia. {Strelitzia regin<e.) 
Flowers in April and May, in peat 
and loam. Suckers. All the genus, 
with the exception of augusta, will 
flower well in a good conservatory, 
although in general they are treated 
as stove plants. 



CRIMSON. 



Sho^vy Callistemon. { Callistemon 
speciosus.) Flowers in March and 
June, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Spear-leaved Callistemon. {Calliste- 



mon lanceolattis.) Flowers in June 
and November, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 



SELECT LIST OF CONSERVATORY PLANTS. 



245 



Rigid Callistemon. {CalUstemon ri- 
gidus.) Flowers in April and May, 
m sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Ever - blowing Callistemon. {Calli- 
stemon semperjlorens. ) Flowers in 



March and June, in sandy loam, 
Cuttings. 

*Proliferous Phcenocoma. ( Phceno- 
coma prolifera.) 



Holly-leaved Plagiolobium. {Plagio- 
loMum ilicifolium. ) Flowers in 
March and July, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Chorizema-leaved Plagiolobium. {Pla- 
giolobium chorizemifolium.) Flowers 



in March and July, in sandy peat. 
Cuttings. 

Blue Ceanothos. {Ceanotlios azureus.) 
Flowers in April, in peat and loam. 
Cuttings. 



FLESH-COLOURED. 



Long-fruited Ardisia. {Ardisia macro- 
carpa.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 



Lofty Kni^htia. {Knightia excelsa.) 
Flowers m May and August. Cut- 
tings. 



*One-flowered Adenandra. {Adenandra 
unijlora.) 

♦Pleasing Adenandra. ( Adenandra 
amcena.) 

*Show}^ Adenandra. ( Adenandra 
gpeciosa.) 

♦Umbellate Adenandra. {Adenandra 
umhellata.) 

♦Fragrant Adenandra. {Adenandra 
fragrans.) 

Cape Aitonia. ( Aitonia capensis. ) 
Flowers in April and September, in 
rich mould. Cuttings. 

*Sprengelia-like Andersonia. {Ander- 
sonia sprengelioides.) 

Box-leaved Andromeda. {Ayidromeda 
buxifolia.) Flowers in June and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Layers. 

Silky Grevillea. {Grevillea sericea.) 
Flowers in April and September, in 
sandy peat. Seeds. 

Strict Grevillea. {&revillea stricta.) 
Flowers in April and September, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Long - styled Grevillea. ( Grevillea 
stylosa. ) Flowers in April and 
September, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Mucrotiulate Grevillea. ( Grevillea 
mucronulata.) Flowers in April and 



September, in loam and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

♦SeiTulated Boronia. ( Boronia ser- 
rulata.) 

Small-wrinkly Callistemon. ( Callis- 
temon rugulosus.) Flowers in March 
and June, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Five-flowered Enkianthus. {Enhian- 
thus quiJiqueflora.) Flowers in Fe- 
bruary and September, in sandy loam 
and peat. Cuttings. 

Netted Enkianthus. ( EnManthm 
reticulata. ) Flowers in January 
and February, in peat and loam.- 
Cuttings. 

*Box-leaved Eriostemon, {Eriostemon 
huxifoliu^,) and all the rest of the 
genera. 

Southern Indigofera. {Indigofera au- 
stralis.) Flowers in March and June, 
in sandy peat. Cuttings and seeds. 

♦Oxalis-leaved Loddigesia. ( Loddi- 
gesia oxalidifoUa.) 

*Five-petaled Lysinema, ( Lysinema 
pentapetalum,) and the rest of the 
genus. 

Styrax-leaved Podalyria. {Podalgria 
stijracifolia.) Flowers in May and 
July, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 



SCARLET. 



Indian Azalea. {Azalea indica.) Flow- 
ers in March and May, in peat and 
loam. Cuttings. 



Scarlet-flowered Banksia. {Bauksia 
coccinea.) Flowers in May ar.d Au- 
gust, in loam and peat. Cuttings. 



246 THE CONS 

^Decussated Beaufortia. {Beaufortia 

decussata.) 
Cape Burchellia. {BurchelUa capensis.) 

Flowers in March, in peat and loam. 

Cuttings. 

Linear Callistemon. ( Callistemon 

linearis.) Flowers in June and July, 

in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
*Four-cleft Calotliamnus. (Calotham- 

nus quadrifida.) 
*Villous Calothamnus. {Calothamnus 

villosa.) 

*Club-leaved Calothamnus. ( Calo- 
thamnus clavata,) 

*Slender-leaYed Calothamnus. {Calo- 
thamnus gracilis.) 



*Henchman's Chorizema. {Chorizema 

Henchmamiii.) 
*Showy Corraea. {Corrcea speciosa.) 
*Pretty Corraea. (Con-cea pulchella.) 
*Great - flowered Epacris, ( Epacris 

grandiflora,) and all the rest of the 

genera. 

Lily - flowered Hibiscus. ( Hibiscus 
UUflorus. ) Flowers in June and 
July, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Splendid Melaleuca. {Melaleuca ful- 
gens.) Flowers in July and Septem- 
ber, in sandy loam and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Most - splendid Warratah. {Telopea 
speciosissima. ) Flowers in May 
and July, in sandy peat. Cuttings/ 



Double-purple Indian Azalea. {Azalea 
indica purpurea plena.) Flowers in 
ISIarch and May, in peat and loam. 
Cuttings. 

Pm'ple Indian Azalea. {Azalea indica 
phoenicea.) Flowers in May, in peat 
and loam. Cuttings. 

*Purple Crotalaria. {Crotalaria pur- 
purea.) 

*Elegant Crotalaria. {Crotalaria ele- 
gans.) 

* Willow-leaved Crowea. {Crowea sa- 
ligna.) 

Acanthus-leaved Grevillea. {GreviUea 
acanthi folia.) Flowers in April and 
September, in loam and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Neat Grevillea. {Grevillea concinna.) 
Flowers in April and September, in 
loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Paterson's Hibiscus. {Hibiscus Pater- 
sonii.) Flowers in June and August, 
in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

*Purple Hovea, {Hovea purpurea,) and 
all the rest of the g-enus. 

Neat Melaleuca. {3Ielaleuca pidchella.) 
Flowers in June and September, in 
sandy loam and peat. Cuttings. 

Thyme-like-leaved Melaleuca. {Mela- 
leuca thymoides.) Flowers in June 
and August, in sandy loam and peat. 
Cuttings. 

Decussate Melaleuca. , {Melaleuca de- 
cussata.) Flowers in July and Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam and peat. 
Cuttings. 

Dense-leaved Melaleuca. {Melaleuca 
densa.) Flowers in July and Au- 



gTist, in sandy loam and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

*Pinnate - leaved Boronia, {Borania 
pinnata.) 

Heister's Muraltia. {Muraltia Heis- 

teria.) Flowers in January, in sandy 

peat. Cuttings. 
Squarrose Muraltia. {Muraltia squar- 

rosa.) Flowers in May and July, in 

sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Mixed INIuraltia. {Muraltia mij^ta.) 

Flowers all the year, in sandy peat. 

Cuttings. 

Hairy Podalyria. {Podalyria Mrsuta.) 
Flowers in July and August, in peat 
and loam. Cuttings. 

Silky Podalyria. {Podalyria sericea.J 
Flowers in January and October, in 
peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Myrtle-leaved Podal>Tia. {Podalyria 
my rti folia.) Flowers in April and 
July, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Showy Milkwort. {Polygala speciosa.) 
Flowers from May to October, in 
peat and loam. Cuttings ; as also 
the rest of the genus. 

Cinnamon Rhododendron. ( Rhodo- 
dendron cinnamoneum.) Flowers in 
June, in light peat and loam. Layers^ 
grafting, and cuttings. 

Tree Rhododendron. {Rhododendron 
arboreum. ) Flowers in May and 
June, in sandy peat. Layers and 
grafting. The same also may be 
said of the remainder of the tender 
species of this genus, without which 
no Conservatory can be said to be 
complete. 



Bundled Andromeda. {Andromeda 
fasciculata.) Flowers in April and 
May, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 



*Whitish-leaved Anthocercis. {Antho- 
cercis albicans.) 



SELECT LIST OF CONSERVATORY PLANTS. 



247 



^Viscid Anthocercis. ( Anthocercis 
viscosa,) 

Canary Arbutus. ( Arbutus canari- 
eims.) Flowers in ^Nlay and June, in 
common g-arden soil. Layers. 

Laurel - leaved Ai'butus. ' ( Arbutus 
laurifoUa. ) Flowers in April and 
May, in sandy peat. Layers. 

Dwarf Arbutus. (Arbutus jmmila.) 
Flowers in ^larcb and April, in 
sandy peat. Layers. 

Serrated - leaved Arbutus. (Arbutus 
serratifoUa.) Flowers in Februaiy 
and March, in sandy peat. Layers. 

Oenulated Ardisia. ' {Ardisia crenu- 
lata.) Flowers all tlie year, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings. 

Pubescent Ardisia. ( Ardisia pube- 
sceus.) Rowers in July and August, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Pure white Indian AzaleaT {Azalea 
mdica alba.) Flowers in ;March and 
May, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Two-spined Arduina. {Arduina bi- 
spinma. ) Rowers in March and 
August, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

'VVhite- leaved Starwort. (Aster argo- 

phyllus.) Flowers in May and July, 

in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Twigg>' Baeckia. ( Backia virgata. ) 

Flowers in August and October, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
*Ledum - leaved Boronia. {Boronia 

ledifolia.) 

Sweet-scented Brugmansia. (Brug- 
mansia suaviolens.) Flowers in Au- 
gust and September, in loam and 
peat. Cuttings. 

Tree Clethra. ( Clethra arborea. ) 
Flowers in August and November, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Variegated Tree Clethra. (tletlira ar- 
borea variegata.) Rowers in August, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

•* White Corraea. (Corrcea alba.) 

Cape Cunonia. ( Cunonia capensis. ) 
Flowers in August, in compost. 
Ctittings. 

Waved Drakasna. (Brahana ujidulata.) 

Rowers in April and ^lay, in peat 

and loam. Roots. 
Svreet - scented Drak£ena, (Drah:e7ia 



fragrans.) Rowers in February- and 
May, in peat and loam. Roots' 

Cape Ekebergia. (Ekebergia capensis.) 
Rowers in July and August, in peat 
and loam. Cuttings. 

Blue-fmited Elaeocai^jus. (Elceocarpus 
cyanus.) Rowers in July and Au- 
gust, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Four-angled Eudesmia. ( Eud^smki 
tetragona. ) Rowers in July, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Mptle - leaved Eugenia. ( Eugenia 
myrtifolia.) Rowers in April and 
July,' in sandy peat. Cuttinsrs. 

Linear-leaved Grevillea. ( GreviUm 
linearis.) Rowers in April and Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Seeds, 

Subulate Lissanthe. (LissantJie subu- 
lata.) Rowers in April and July, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings ; and all' the 
rest of the genus. 

Conspicuous ^Magnolia. ( Magnolia 
conspicua. ) Roweri in February 
and April, in peat and loam. Grafts'. 

Bundle-liowered ^Metrosideros. (Me- 
trosideros floribundus.) Flowers in 
July and August, in sandy loam. 
Cuttings. 

Exotic Murraya. (Murraya exotica.) 
Rowers in August and September, 
in light loam. Cuttings. 

Filiform Sparrow-wort.^ ( Passeriita 
filiform is.) Rowers in Jtme and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Great -flowered ' Sparrow-wort.^ (Pas- 
serina grandiflora.) Rowers in May 
and June, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Wave-leaved Pittosporum. (Pittospo- 
rum undulatum.) Rowers in Febru- 
ary- and June, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Wedge-leaved Podalyria. (Podulyria 
cuneifolia. ) Rowers in May and 
Augiist, in peat and loam. * Cut- 
tings. 

Dampier's Westringia. ( Westr\ngm 
Dampieri. ) Rowers in May and 
Jttly^ in sandy peat. Cuttings! 

Long-leaved Westringia. (Westringrn 
longi folia.) Flowers in May and Au- 
gust," in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Rigid Westringia. (Westringictrigicl^.) 
Flowers in ^lay and August, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. 



RED. 



*Winged Boronia. (Boronia alata.) 

Twiggy Callistemon. (Callistemon vi- 
minalis. ) Flowers in March and 
June, in sandy loam. Cutting's. 

Linear-leaved Callistemon. (Calliste- 
mon lineari folius.) Flowers in March 
and June, 'in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 



Rosemary-leaved Grevillea. (Grevillea 
rosmar'ini folia. ) Flowers in April 
and September, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Acuminate Grevillea. (Grevillea artt- 
minata.) Rowers in April and Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Seeds. 

Pubescent Grevillea. (Grevillea pu- 



248 



THE CONSERVATORY. 



bescens.) Flowers in April and Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
LiOng"-peduncled Hibiscus. {Hibiscus 
peduncularis.) Flowers in May and 
December, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Long--leaved Lambertia. (Lambertia 
longifolia. ) Flowers in June and 
August, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Handsome Lambertia. ( Lambertia 



formosa.) Flowers in June and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Most-grateful Luculia. {LuciiUa gra- 
tissima. ) Flowers in August and 
September, in peat and loam. Cut- 
tings. 

*Retuse-leaved Templetonia, {Temple- 
tonia retusa,) and the rest of the 
genus. 



Elks'-horn Acrostichum, (Acrosfichum 
alcicorne,)dL\\ interesting fern. Flow- 
ers in August and October, in sandy 
peat. Division of the plant. 

*Rufous Anigozanthos. {Anigozanthos 
rufa.) 

*Mangles' Anigozanthos. (Amgozan- 

fhos 3Ia?iglesii.) 
Nodding Draksna. (DraTc^ena nutans.) 

Flowers in July and August, in peat 

and loam. Cuttings. 
Brown-stalked Magnolia. (Magnolia 



fiiscata.) Flowers in April and May, 
in peat and loam. Layers, cuttings, 
and grafting on M. purpurea or gra- 
cile. 

Anona-leaved Magnolia. ( Magnolia 
anoncefolia.) Flowers in April and 
May, in peat and loam. Propagated 
as the last. 

Southern Carmichaelia. {Carmichmlia 
australis.) Flowers in May and July, 
in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

*Rufous Corraea. {Cornsa rufa.) 



Oange-coloured Indian Azalea. {Aza- 
lea^indica aurantiaca.) Flowers in 
March and May, in peat and loam. 
Cuttings. 

*Myrtle-leaved Eutaxia, {Eutaxia myr- 

tl folia,) and the rest of the genus. 
Silaiim - leaved Lomatia. (Lomafia 



silaifolia.) Flowers in June and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Globe - flowered Liparia. ( Liparia 
spJiijerica.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Beautiful Platylobium, ( Platylobiim 
formosumy) and the rest of the genus. 



Variegated Indian Azalea. {Azalea indica variegata.) Flowers in March and 
May, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 



Green - flowered Corraea. ( Corrcea 
virens.) 

Thyrse-flowered Cussonia. (Cussonia 
thyrsifiora.) Flowers in May and 
June, in loam and peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Spike-flowered Cussonia. {Cussonia 
spicata.) Flowers in June and July, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Domestic Nandina. { NandtJia do- 



mestica. ) Flowers in June and 
July, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 
Green-flowered Callistemon. {CaUi^- 
teinon viridiflorus.) Flowers in June 
and August, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Crest-flowered Callistemon. {Callis- 
temon lophantkus.) Flowers in June 
and August, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 



*Holly-leaved Chorizema. 
ilidfoUa.) 



YELLOW^ AND RED. 

{Chorizema \ * Dwarf 
I nana.) 



Chorizema. ( Chorizema 



CREAM-COLOURED. 



Gigantic Doryanthus. 



{Doryanthus excelsa.) Flowers in July and August, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings. 



249 



THE ORANGERY. 



The Orangery is a plant structure much more rare in Britain than in 
almost any other country in Europe. This has not always heen the case ; 
for the Orangery was amongst the first structures attempted in this 
country for the cultivation of exotic plants ; and before the introduction 
of so many other exotics into England, which may be principally traced 
to our taking possession of the Cape of Good Hope, and the discovery of 
New Holland, the cultivation of the orange was common here. Oiu* 
neighbours on the continent have for ages admired these trees, on account 
of the fragrance of their flowers, which they use in a variety of ways, 
and also on account of their being evergreens, which are much more rare 
in the gardens of the continent than they are with us. Indeed, so general 
is their cultivation in France, Germany, and the Netherlands, that the 
term Orangerie is synonymous with greenhouse in England, implying as 
though the culture of them were a primary consideration to that of 
exotic plants generally. 

Under this head we include, of course, the lemon, citron, lime, and 
staddock ; and a house, either partially or completely filled with these 
trees when in flower or fruit, must be allowed to have a very imposing 
effect. 

STRUCTURES CALCULATED FOR THE GROWTH OF ORANGES. 

The Granger}-, according to our taste, should be either connected \\-ith 
the mansion, or at no great distance from it. If attached, it may, with 
greater propriety than can be admitted in other plant -house we have 
noticed, partake of the architectural style of the house, and hence may, 
in many cases, form a part of its elevation. The orange will tlirive with 
a much less share of light and sun, particularly during winter, than almost 
any other exotic we know, but it appears during summer to Uke both in 
abundance. Houses, therefore, in which few other plants would live, may 
be advantageously used for the cultivation of the orange. The houses on 
the continent in which their most splenchd collections are kept, such as 
those at Versailles, the Tuileries, at Lacken, Enghien, <:^c., are all without 



250 



THE ORANGERY. 



glass roofs, and such are also those in the royal gardens at Kew, Hampton 
Court, and Windsor Castle. A very good Orangery may be constructed, 
consisting of windows placed (the whole height of the front) between 
stone, wood, or brick columns or piers, with sufficient entablature and. 
cornice to show its architectural character. The interior arrangements 
are exceedingly simple, there being required only a brick or well-rolled 
gravel floor for the tubs, boxes, or pots to stand on, and a flue or hot 
water pipe to extend round it under the floor level. 

PROPA:GATIOX AND GENERAL TREATMENT W^HILE YOUNG. 

Oranges and their aUies, like all fruit-bearing trees, are propagated by 
seeds, but, for the most part, these are only used for stocks, on which to 
graft, inarch, or bud more approved kinds. The seeds should be sown in 
light, rich mould, placed in a gentle heat. AMien the young plants have 
attained the height of two feet or so, and about the thickness of a quill, 
they may then be grafted or inarched. The former process is usually 
and most successfully accomplished in a close, moist, warm frame or pit. 
The scion is put on upon the whip principle, secured by a strip of mat- 
ting, and covered over with a small quantity of moss, kept a little damp. 
This is the best process when small and handsome plants are desired. 
Oranges have been successfully propagated by cuttings ; and, perhaps, if 
due attention be paid to this mode of culture, handsome small trees may 
be obtained by it as soon as by any other. The following is the process 
followed by the late Henderson, of Woodhall, who was most successful as 
a cultivator of this tribe. " Take the strongest young shoots, and also a 
quantity of the two-year old shoots ; these may be cut into lengths from 
nine to eighteen inches. Take the leaves off the lower part of each 
cutting, to the extent of about five inches, allowing the leaves that remain 
above that to remain untouched ; then cut right across, tmder an eye, 
and make a small incision, in an angular direction, on the bottom of the 
cutting. When the cuttings are thus prepai'ed, take a pot and fill it with 
sand, size the cuttings so that the short ones may be all together in one 
pot, and those that are taller in another ; then, with a small dibble, plant 
them about five inches deep in the sand, and give them a good watering 
over head, to settle the sand about them. Let them stand a day or two 
in a shady place, and if a frame be ready with bottom heat, plunge the 
pots to the brim ; shade them well vrith a double mat, which may remain 
till they have struck root ; when rooted, take the sand and cuttings out 
of the pot, and plant them into single pots, in proper compost. Plunge 
the pots with the young plants again into a frame, and shade them for 



PROPAGATION AXD GENERAL TREATMENT. 



251 



four or five weeks, or till they have taken with the pots, when they may 
be gradually exposed to the light. From various experiments/' Henderson 
remarks, " I have found that pieces of two-year old wood struck quite 
well; and in place, therefore, of putting in cuttings of six or eight 
inches long, I have taken off cuttings from ten inches to two feet long, 
and struck them "^ith equal success. 

This is a new, and, as it appears to us, the best method for obtaining 
handsome, small-flowering plants, such as could be conveniently brought 
into the drawing-room or flower-stand. However, when very large 
specimens are wanted, and the intention is to fiU a separate house with 
them, we would recommend the purchase of trees already grown to some 
size, or the purchase of stocks of four or five feet in height, which can be 
bought at reasonable charges from the ItaUan warehouse keepers, who 
annually import plenty of such. These should be potted in large pots, 
in a very rich and strong loam, and placed in a mild humid temperature, 
when they may be budded in the Itahan manner, or grafted or inarched 
like any other fruit-bearing tree. 

A correspondent in the Gard. Mag., Vol. I., p. 152, proposes, in the 
case of newly imported orange and lemon trees, to immerse them half 
way up their stems in water, at about sixty-four degrees, for twelve hours. 
They are then to be potted, and their stems enveloped in soft hay-bands, 
kept constantly moist, from the root to the bud. The shoots from the 
bud to be cut down to three eyes, and finally the pots plunged into a bed 
of nearly spent dung, made up in a vinery. The water used morning and 
ev^ening was sLxtA'-five degrees, — the same temperature as the air in the 
house. By following this method, the trees in ten days began to push 
vigorously, while others, that were not enveloped nor soaked in water, 
remained a month quite inactive. 

Oranges, lemons, and shaddocks may be multiphed by cuttings in the 
following manner, and which is said to have been the invention of the 
late Mr. Hoy, long the superintendent of the gardens at Sion House : — 
The cuttings are selected from the young wood when it has attained a 
rather firm texture, and is cut across close below a joint, and then sht 
upward from the end to within a short distance from the next joint, at 
wiiich joint it is tongued, as if it was to be laid. These sUts are kept 
open by placing a small piece of stone or potsherd between the parts, as 
is often done in layering vines, carnations, &c. Cuttings so made, and 
planted in light, rich loam, and placed in a moderately warm and humid 
hot -bed or pit, and kept close by being covered with a hand or beU glass, 
will root speedily, and make excellent plants. 



252 



THE ORAXGERY. 



GENERAL TREATMENT WHEN IN THE HOUSE. 

Oranges have been ver\^ successfully cultivated by being planted out in 
prepared borders, either as standards, trained as espaUers, or against a 
wall. We, however, thinking that none of this family will ever be considered 
as worth cultivating in this country for the fruit they may produce, would 
prefer to grow them in pots or boxes, so that they would be portable, and 
capable of being used as objects of decoration, either in the house or 
during summer, when placed upon the lawn, SiC. 

The orange is not sufficiently hardy to stand in the open air of this 
countr}% generally, although there are instances of their existing in that 
state in the warmer parts of Devonshire, but they do not require artificial 
heat beyond what is merely sufficient to keep the temperature about a 
degree or two above the freezing point ; indeed, when subjected to a few 
degrees of frost they do not appear to sustain any particular injury. 
During T\inter, therefore, if they be kept cool, supplied with abundance 
of air, and a limited supply of water, they will do very weU. Henderson, 
whom we have already quoted, says, " The general management of orange 
trees, from the middle of March till the 1st of October, may be discussed 
in a few words. I give the trees a good watering all over the leaves 
once a-week, with the engine, excepting when they are in flower. Till 
the end of May, this watering is given about eleven o'clock in the fore- 
noon ; after the end of ^lay, I give them a good dashing over the leaves 
twice a-week vrith the engine, and now, I do it in the evening. In very hot 
weather, I repeat the engine watering thrice a-week. I never set the orange 
trees out of doors in summer ; for, from thuty-eight years' experience I 
find it is much against them. In the chmate of Scotland, in hot weather, 
I keep them in the back of the \inery, under the shade of the vines, or 
behind the stage of the greenhouse. Orange trees delight to be in the 
shade in sunny weather ; they here grow freely, and keep a fine dark- 
green colour. From October till ^larch, I give them a gentle sprinkling 
over the leaves once in two or three weeks, but only in fresh [jnild] 
weather, taking the opportunity of a mild day, when there is httle sun, 
and always in the forenoon." Such is the practice laid down by this in- 
telligent cultivator in the Memoirs of the Caledonian Horticultural 
Society, Vol. III. p. 303. This rule is apphcable to the chmate of 
Scotland, and differs from that practised by some excellent cultivators in 
England, and by all continental gardeners whatever, who make the 
placing of these trees, not only in the open air during a portion of sum- 
mer, but placing them in the most exposed situation possible, where they 



GENERAL TREATMEXT OUT OF DOORS. — SOIL. 



253 



may enjoy the full force of the sun, a principal feature in their manage- 
ment. Our view of the case is founded on a pretty extensive kno\yledge 
of the treatment of these trees by the best continental cultivators, and 
also by observing that pursued by some of those in England also ; and we 
have come to the conclusion (although contrary to our own practice 
foiTneriy), that these trees are benefited greatly by being placed out of 
doors during summer, that is, from the end of !May till the middle of 
October. 

GENERAL TREATMENT WHEN OUT OF DOORS. 

AVhen the orange trees are taken out as above, they should be placed 
upon a dry, hard gravel walk, or ten-ace, upon which the sun shines for 
the greater part of the day. While in this situation they should have an 
abimdant supply of water once a day at least at their roots, and s^Tinged 
over head once or t^ice a-week. Liquid manm-e should be appUed occa- 
sionally, and the sm'face of the mould in the pots or boxes kept mulched 
or covered with short rich manm^e, the essence of which will be washed 
down to the roots at each watering. Any shoots that appear to be 
growing luxmiantly should be stopped when they have reached the length 
of six or eight inches, the object being to produce wood of about that 
length, which will be su:Sciently ripened before autumn ; and this is the 
rationale of placing them in such a situation. If they be placed in a 
shaded place, the shoots would be drawn out long, slender, and immature, 
and would, in that case, be hable to damp off dming winter, and at all 
events it would not be sufficiently perfected to form blossom buds, which 
is the principal object of their culture. 

SOIL. 

A strong loamy soil, enriched by manure, is the best for oranges, ^iz. 
one half rich, strong, clayey loam, and half well-rotted, rich manure, to 
which a small portion of ground bones may be added. The French gar- 
deners, in preparing compost for their orange trees, endeavour to com- 
pensate for quantity by quahty, because, as Bosc, in " Nouveau Cours 
d' Agriculture," justly observes, the pots or boxes in which the plants are 
placed ought always to be as small as possible, relatively to the size of 
the tree. At Genoa and Florence a strong yellow clay is preferred, as 
may be observed upon examining trees imported from those places. The 
"Dutch, following this example, grow their trees in a strong, stiff clay, 
highly manm-ed. 

English writers on this subject have recommended a variety of mixtures, 



254 



THE ORAXGERY. 



but all agree in having a rich and rather strong soil, to which we may 
add, that our own practical opinion is, that a soil for these trees cannot 
well be too rich or too strong ; even strong, rich brick earth, exposed to 
atmospheric changes for a year or two, and highly enriched with manure, 
we have found to answer our expectations. 

POTTING AND SHIFTING. 

Orange trees do not require to be re-potted or shifted so often as most 
other plants ; once in two years or longer may be considered as a medium 
period for this operation. The months of March or April appear to be 
the best time, and the following the best mode of proceeding. When the 
plants are large, the boxes or tubs should be taken to pieces, in order that 
the roots may be examined 'ssithout disturbing the ball. The best boxes 
for this purpose are those that are contrived so that they may l>e 
sepai'ated with as little trouble as possible, and those recommended in the 
Gard. Mag., Vol. I., and in M'lntosh^s Practical Gardener, Vol. II., are 
decidedly the best, as affording the greatest facilities, both for removing 
and examining the roots of the plants. Tubs have advantages also, and 
may be, Uke boxes, of any size above that of the largest size pots ; they 
are readily taken to pieces by knocking off the hoops, and having a 
cooper at hand to put them together again. By either of these ways the 
operation of shifting becomes an easy matter, but when the boxes or tul^s 
are not taken to pieces, then the tree and ball must be entirely lifted out 
of the tub and suspended by fixing a rope round the stem, and passing 
the other end over a pulley fixed to a triangle, that the tree may be so 
elevated that the new tub or box may be placed under it, into which the 
tree is lowered as soon as the necessaiy operations of examining the roots 
have taken place. There is one e^il attending this plan, namely, the 
danger of injuring the bark by the rope. As the trees require a con- 
siderable quantity of water dm'ing summer, it is necessary that the tubs 
or boxes be well drained prior to the plants being placed in them, and 
that there be a sufiicient number of holes perforated in the bottom, to 
admit of the escape of the superfluous water. Oranges should not be 
over-shifted, that is, they should not be put into tubs or boxes much 
larger than those out of which they were taken. If there be about an 
inch or an inch and a half of new mould added round the ball, it will, in 
most cases, be sufficient at one time. All decayed or broken roots should 
the carefully cut off, the sides of the ball loosened, and any hard or sod- 
dened lumps of mould removed, but in doing this, the greatest care must 
be taken that the young and healthy roots sustain no injury. 



255 



THE PLANT VERANDAH. 

For cottage or villa residences, no species of greenhouse, so far as con- 
venience is concerned, has more advantages than a structure in the veran- 
dah fashion, that is, a covered projection, having a glazed front, and the 
roof wholly or in part of the same material. Such a structure may be 
placed against the front or one or more ends of the dwelUng-house, the 
principal windows opening into it in the French manner, and the plants 
will require to be selected, and their arrangement made subordinate to 
the circumstances of the case. 

Such a structure will answer the purpose of an agreeable lounge or 
promenade, which cannot fail to render them very desirable to the vale- 
tudinarian at all seasons, and to the young and active in times of rain and 
bad weather : it will also serve as a repository for exotic flowering plants ; 
and if some taste be displayed in the management and arrangement of 
them, they will produce a very pleasing effect. In the disposal of plants 
in such houses, we would direct particular attention to be paid to a judi- 
cious selection of choice free-flowering chmbers, to be planted in spaces 
prepared for them under the floor, and to be trained up the front pilasters 
and under the rafters of the roof. The spaces for these plants need not 
be more than chambers, formed of about two feet by three, and eighteen 
inches deep, filled with good peat and loam, in which most plants of this 
description will grow freely. A space of a semi-circular form should be 
left in the pavement to receive the plant, and also to supply water to it ; 
this space need not be larger than about nine inches in length by six in 
its greatest breadth : and the opening should have a neat ornamental iron 
guard placed round it, about four inches in height, to prevent the stem of 
the plant from being injured or broken. 

Prestiming that the floor is paved, elegant stages or flower stands 
should be tastefiilly arranged, and rendered portable by being mounted 
upon casters ; but their an-angement and position may be altered, at the 
pleasure of the proprietor, so as to bring the plants into the light and 
shade, as their habits and other circumstances may require. On tliese stages 
or stands the smaller plants are to be placed. 



256 



THE PLANT VERANDAH. 



Large and fine specimens should be placed in vases, which of them- 
selves are ornaments for such a situation, if tastefully chosen, and of whicli 
the accompanying specimens may serve for examples. These vases are 
manufactured by Mr. Austin, of the New Road, London, at his artificial 
stone manufactory, and are both cheap and durable. Plants which are 
growing in large tubs, or boxes, and which w ould show to disadvantage if 




standing upon the floor, may be set in cavities formed for them under it, 
such cavities being covered when not in use with the pavement, or 
what would be still better, with a neat metallic grating. This mode of 
conceaUng the tubs in which plants grow has been employed upon a large 
scale, and with the happiest effect, in some of the new houses lately 
erected in the Jardin des Plantes, at Paris, and upon a more limited 
scale, but with an equally good effect, in several greenhouses erected 
by Mr. Croskill, hot-house builder, &c., of Beverley, in Yorkshire. 

These gratings answer another important purpose ; for, as the apparatus 
employed for heating should under all circumstances be placed as much as 
possible out of sight, and as it is necessarj^ on account of the natural 
property of heated air to ascend, that the flues or pipes be placed as low 
as possible, no place is so suitable for them as under the floor of such 
houses as that under consideration. We have seen plans in Mr. Croskill's 
possession, representing the whole floor of a large conservatory completely 
covered with an elegant ornamental grating, which in some cases is 
nearly as cheap as stone pavement, the whole made into convenient 
pieces, that can be taken up for the reception of plants, and laid down at 
pleasure. The only objection we have to metalHc floors is, that they are 
great conductors of heat, and, therefore, would be disagreeable to walk 
upon in winter ; they are, however, less so when under a roof than if 
they were fully exposed to the air. 



STYLE OF ARCHITECTURE. 



257 



In structures of this kind a strict attention to the architectural stjie 
of the dwelling should be by no means disregarded. It would be incon- 
gruous and absurd to see a Doric, Corinthian, or Gothic building to which 
a verandah or greenhouse of any other order were appended, yet such in- 
stances of bad taste are often seen. Architectural decoration, however, must 
not be carried too far, particularly where it has the effect of excluding the 
light. There can, however, be no objection to the pilasters between the 
front sashes being so constructed as to show the style of architecture to 
which they belong. In regard to the dimensions of such houses, they 
should, under few circumstances, be of less length than that of the front 
of the house against which they are placed, and indeed of which they 
may be said to form a part : their height and width must always be 
governed by circumstances. If a sloping roof be adopted, it cannot be 
higher than the sill of the windows of the rooms immediately above 
it; the width then must be contracted to allow of sufficient fall for 
the water to run off, as the front or upright sashes should not be less 
than eight feet in height. To obviate this difficulty, and to increase the 
width, a curviUnear, or span roof, may be adopted, the centre or ridge of 
which may be, without objection, a foot or two above the level of the 
sin of the first-floor windows, because it will be sufficiently distant to 
prevent the view from being interrupted, or the rooms from being 
darkened. 

Such structures are, however, better adapted for the display of flower- 
ing plants and fine specimens already grown to perfection, than for the 
more dehcate process of rearing them from seeds, cuttings, &c. Such a 
house as we are now alluding to, should present at aU times a perfect 
whole. The very changing of the plants when going out of flower, or 
the introduction of such as are coming into bloom, should be conducted 
early in the morning, or when the family is from home, or gone out, 
so that no appearance of disorder or confusion may be observed. Of course 
in this case we allude to families of distinction and fashion. The more 
humble, yet no less zealous amateur may take delight in conducting these 
arrangements personally, and derive as much pleasure from the contem- 
plation of his own handywork as * his more opulent and luxurious neigh- 
bour in viewing that which is prepared for him. 

To maintain a regular supply for a house of this description when it is 
intended to be kept in the first degree of elegance and perfection, it will 
be necessary to have recourse elsewhere, and this can easily be accom- 
plished, either by purchasing from the nurserj^men, or by growing plants 
in a pit or gi'eenhouse in the same garden. There are certain plants 

s 



258 



THE PLANT VERANDAH. 



that may be kept in the verandah at all periods, and indeed they form one 
of the principal features in this style of greenhouse, namely, Camelliasj 
OranyeSy PittisporumSy Magnolias, Rhododendrons , large and grotesque 
specimens of succulent plants, &c. ; and these, with a judicious selection of 
fine-flowering climbing plants, must always constitute the chief furniture 
of such a structure. The minor decorations may consist of Geraniums, 
Helitropeums, Fuchsias, Roses, Calceolarias, the harder and free-flowering 
Ericce, and other fine-flowering plants that are to be brought in, in suc- 
cession, so as to keep the verandah at all time in a full-flowering state. 

With the addition of a small brick pit of six or eight lights in length, 
having a flue in it to exclude frost, and divided in the middle, so that 
one end may be kept rather warmer than the other, all the plants above 
enumerated, and many more, may be grown in great perfection, so as to 
be brought in while in flower to decorate the verandah, and at little 
trouble or expense, and within the means of almost every person who 
occupies a house in the viUa or cottage style. 

It would be useless to attempt to give directions that would be gene- 
rally applicable to all houses of this sort ; suffice it to say, that after 
having disposed of the large specimens of plants, so as to produce the most 
pleasing efflect in the mind of the owner, the smaller ones may be taste- 
fully arranged on pedestals, ornamental flower baskets, and in a variety 
of ways that would give effect to the whole. It should, however, be 
observed, that the nearer to the light and glass that all small-leaved plants 
are placed the better: the thicker and lai'ger leaved plants, such as 
oranges, camellias, hydrangeas, &:c., and most succulent plants, excepting 
the genus Mesemlryanthemum, may be placed at a greater distance from 
the light. 

In regard to heating the verandah, it should be by means of flues or 
hot-water pipes, placed under the level of the floor, the heat ascending 
from them into the house through ornamental metallic plates let into the 
pavement immediately over them, or, as the object is to repel frost only 
during the mnter, an elegant German stove may be placed near one end, 
having its smoke-conducting pipes stretching out towards the other ex- 
tremity. The whole expense of such a stove for a small house would 
not exceed five or ten pounds, and it may be used for many pur- 
poses when not in use in the verandah, which will in few seasons be 
longer than from the beginning of December to the middle or end of 
Februaiy. 

Great caution ought to be observed to prevent such stoves from 
becoming too hot, and also that they be placed sufficiently distant 



MODES OF HEATING. 259 

from the plants. A novel and economical method of heating such houses, 
and indeed most small greenhouses, would be to place on the top of a Ger- 
man stove a small boiler, placed in the centre of the house, and having the 
stove so constructed as to allow the smoke to escape under the floor, as 
is the usual manner in similar stoves used for heating halls, lobbies, &c. 
From this boiler a pipe should branch off from the right hand and another 
from the left, and be carried to any required distance, where thev should 
make a turn, and again enter the boiler. Such an apparatus being port- 
able, could be removed when not required, and used for a variety of 
domestic purposes, particularly in a laundry for drying Hnen, or a harness 
room for repeUing damp, and a variety of other purposes that the inge- 
nuity of the proprietor might suggest. 

Verandahs, like greenhouses, conservatories, &c., may be conveniently 
heated, if placed over cellars, or other underground apartments, by having 
a regular hot-water boiler placed in them, with a conducting pipe rising 
from its top, (which of course must be a fixed one), which would conduct 
the hot water into a horizontal pipe, placed in a cavity under the floor, 
and extending to the end of the house, and either made to return under 
itself, or to make the circuit of the house, and again re-enter the boiler 
near its bottom. It is of no consequence how deep the cellar may be, 
or how high above it the house to be heated may be placed. However, 
that as little waste of caloric as possible may take place, we should re- 
commend the perpendicular pipe to be covered with coarse canvass or 
sacking, or any other non-conducting substance. 

Neither is it essentially necessary that the boiler be placed directly under 
the verandah, &c., for if the pipes be covered as above, or enclosed in 
a wooden case and packed in saw-dust, they may be carried a consider- 
able distance in a slanting, or even horizontal position, so long as they 
are kept above the level of the boiler. 

Many dwelling houses are now heated by means of hot water, the 
boiler, &c. being placed in the cellar, or in a chamber constructed on 
purpose, a niche in the side of a passage, or any other more convenient 
place : when such is the case, a branch pipe may be readily conducted to 
the verandah, and the supply of hot water cut off or let on by means of 
Kewley's water-cock, as may be required. 

Such we consider to be the perfection of the principle of heating plant 
structures of this description. 



s 2 



260 



THE PROTECTING TENT. 



The Protecting Tent is a plant structure which we regret to see so 
seldom used. The expense of glass-houses places them beyond the reach 
of many plant cultivators, but the Protecting Tent is of so economical 
and at the same time of so useful a character, that we cannot sufficiently 
recommend it to those who are partial to exotics, and at the same time 
have not the means of gratifying their taste. It is true that by this means 
we cannot preserve during winter so great a variety of plants as in the 
greenhouse or conservatory, neither can the Protecting Tent be con- 
sidered so elegant and commodious a lounge ; but by a judicious selection 
of plants, this may be made an interesting and useful sti-ucture. 'VMiat 
we mean by the Protecting Tent is a portable frame-work erection of any 
desired dimension, of which the annexed diagram will give some idea, 



formed of timber either dressed and painted, or of larch poles, with the 
bark taken off, to be erected over a selection of exotics, planted out in a pre- 
pared border, or erected over them grown in pots, vases, large tubs or boxes 
placed upon a prepared floor of well-rolled gravel or scoria, and covered 
dming winter with canvass, patent tarred paper or felt, or any other 
cheap and flexible material. Such a protection would secure many plants 





MODE OF CONSTRUCTION. 



261 



which are usually kept in the gi'eenhouse, and are too tender to withstand 
our winters in the open borders. The whole erection should be put up 
about the beginning of October, and removed by the second week in June. 

The Horticultural Society of London have to a certain extent carried 
this idea into execution, by the erection of a verandah, or pent covering, 
in front of a wall of great length. Against this wall has been planted all 
such plants as it was calculated would stand the winter in such a situa- 
tion, and also some duphcate specimens, the hardiness of which it was 
desirable to determine. The utiUty of this plan is obvious to every one 
interested in plant culture, and it is in our opinion one of the very few 
realty useful experiments made by a society commanding capital and 
opportunities which have never before fallen to the lot of any public or 
private horticultural body, either in this country or on the continent. A 
prepared border was formed at the bottom of this wall, rendered per- 
fectly diy at the bottom, into which the plants are planted ; they are 
nailed to the wall and trained in a way, however, which we are not 
singular in disapproving of. They should, in our opinion, have been 
allowed to grow in a more natural manner, excepting creeping plants, 
which of course require support. In this border many valuable bulbous- 
rooted plants were introduced, and these for some years succeeded admi- 
rably ; but, as might have been expected, as the plants against the waU 
extended in growth, they would rob the bulbous-rooted kinds of their 
proper share of nourishment ; and as a consequence they are, we beheve, 
now nearly all dead. About three feet in front of this wall is ranged a 
row of larch poles about six feet apart, connected together at top by a 
slip of deal about six inches broad, upon which is laid hurdles thatched 
with straw, so as to form a roof between them and the waU, which not 
only keeps the plants dry, but the mould into which they grow, — a most 
important feature in the system of protecting exotic plants. These hurdles 
are placed over the plants in autumn, and removed in spring ; the whole 
front being left open for the admission of sun and air, excepting in the 
case of any individuals more tender than the others, against which a mat 
is hung in the most severe weather, and which species of covering, as 
has been proved by Dr. Wells, in his Essay on Dew, is of much more 
utiUty in gardening than is generally known. 

Had the Horticultural Society, instead of planting these exotics against 
a wall, planted them at some distance from it, or even in a sheltered 
part of the garden, and protected them in a similar manner, that collec- 
tion of plants would at this day have assumed a very different aspect. 
^\ e would recommend the Society to set about planting a selection of 



262 



THE PROTECTING TEXT. 



exotics as soon as possible, extending over a surface equal to that covered 
by one of the splendid tents used at their exhibition fetes, and which, if 
the plants were retained in pots plunged in the ground, would form an 
interesting feature, even during \\-inter, in their garden, and serve as 
data to those who, not having the same means, would, nevertheless, be 
anxious to ascertain the comparative hardiness of exotic plants. 

The Honourable and Reverend William Herbert, than whom few have 
shone more conspicuous in the study of plants, appears to have thought 
favourably of this mode of culture. " The vigour,'^ he observes, with 
which mules of the genus Crinum, and many other plants, grow out of 
doors against the front wall of a stove, persuades me that a great variety 
of plants might with a little care be cultivated better in the open ground 
than under glass, if the border in which they are to grow were properly 
prepared, and a tarpauling, or any water-proof covering, placed over 
them at the times when it might be requisite to exclude either rain or 
cold. The covering might hang on the two sides of a strong longitudinal 
pole, like the two slopes of a roof, and be made to roll up either with or 
without a spring. There are many plants which seem to enjoy a cool atmo- 
sphere, but will not flower nor thrive vigorously without the stimulus of 
heated earth at the root. Having chosen a situation where a furnace 
and boiler could be placed under ground," he " would carry the smoke- 
flue as far as its heat would extend on one side, and hot-water or steam 
pipes in a different direction, as might be found convenient, enclosed in 
a stone or brick flue, to as great an length as its influence might reach. 
In such a border he beUeves the genus Hedi/chium, and many others, 
would flower perfectly vrith the assistance of fire-heat in the summer, 
requiring nothing in winter but a covering to throw off the wet, and the 
heat might be turned into other pipes, for the advantage of plants which 
might require the warmth in winter rather than in summer. In front 
of a wall, a moveable verandah, which might be either ornamental or 
made of thatched hurdles, or hurdle-gates, would throw off the wet, 
which is the principal cause of injury in winter, for many shrubs wiU 
endure the access of severe frost to the head, if aU wet can be effectually 
excluded from the base of the stem and from the root by any sloped 
heading. Under such a verandah, with occasional heat to the flue during the 
early summer, and perhaps in severe frost, AmarylliSy Brunsvigia, BulifrWf 
Nerine, HcsmanthuSy and all the allied genera of African bulbs, as well 
as the South American, would certainly succeed better than by any other 
treatment. I believe," continues this authority, " that not only those, 
but even some of the ti'opical Crinums would succeed better so than in 



MAXAGEMEXT OF PLANTS IX THE TEXT. 263 

a Stove, and probably many shrubs which might not be expected to hve 
there. The advantage of a verandah or pent covering, however rude, on 
the north side of a wall, for the protection of half-hardy plants, such as 
Camellia japonica, Asiatic species of Rhododendrons, &c., is not suffi- 
ciently known. It is the excitement occasioned by the access of the 
sun that makes such plants liable to injury, and a south aspect, whether 
in summer or winter, is prejudicial to them. I beheve that the covering 
of a pent-roof in a northern aspect, without any flue, is more congenial to 
those plants than a greenhouse, with caution to prevent any heavy rain or 
snow from being driven upon them by a strong north wind, which is 
easily done by hanging mats along in such an emergency." 

The management of plants in such a structure is not different from 
those in the regular conservator^-, only, as the canvass or other covering 
does not admit of the free passage of light, it is necessary to admit that 
indispensable element by frequently opening it in different parts, par- 
ticularly in autumn and spring : indeed, in most ordinary mild days dming 
these seasons it may be nearly all thrown open by the simple process 
of having the canvass or paper mounted on rollers, and these wi'ought by 
pulleys, which will enable the proprietor to cover or uncover at pleasm-e. 
During winter partial opening must be only indulged in, but as hght and 
air is so essentially necessary for all plants, it follows that the success of 
culture will depend upon the quantity of each admitted to the plants. Dur- 
ing winter the border, if the plants be planted out, should be well covered 
with dry litter, or, what is better, both for resisting frost and also for 
appearance, is moss, different species of Hypnum, Sphagnum^ &c., which 
should be laid over to the depth of six or nine inches. The stems of the 
plants should by November be enveloped by binding moss neatly round 
them as far up as to where the branches issue from them ; the most 
luxuriant and imperfectly formed ones removed, which will admit of a 
greater circulation of air, and also lighten the trees of a number of shoots 
that would be almost certain to die through the winter. If the plants be 
grown in pots or tubs, it is of the utmost consequence that they be 
plunged in moss or similar medium to their full height, to prevent the 
action of frost from destroying the roots. 

The situation for such a structure should be one that is sheltered from 
the effects of winds, and as favourably placed in respect to exposure to 
the sun as possible. That it be either naturally dry or rendered artificially 
so is of the greatest importance, and that the plants be kept as drj- dming 
winter as a due degree of safety will warrant. During summer this 
selection of plants wiU thrive well and flower abundantly. The first 



2G-1 



THE PROTECTING TEXT. 



and principal consideration to be attended to in attempting this branch 
of cultivation, is a selection of good flowering plants, sufficiently hardy 
to bear at least four or five degi'ces of frost. The following is a few, to 
which many others may be added, that will thrive nearly as well under 
this sort of protection as under that of an ill-constructed and badly 
managed greenhouse. 

Erica, several species ; Linum tigrmurrtj L.flavum, Phlomis Lecmut^j 
Arbutus longifoUa, Donia glutinosa, Leptospermum, several species ; 
Hypericum, several species ; Lavandula dentata, Polygala, several species ; 
Buddlea salvifolia, Aster reflexus, A. argophyllus, Cistus, many species ; 
Magnolia annoncefolia, M. conspicua, M. f meat a, Salvia, several species ; 
Psoralea, several species ; Sutherlandia frutescens, Fuchsia, all the 
species ; Acacia, several species ; Illicium floridanum, I. anisatum, Cliei- 
ranthus, several species ; Teucrinum, several species ; Convolvulm, several 
species ; Azalea indica, Daphne odora, Camellia, many yarieties ; Myrsine 
africana. Cineraria, several species ; Myrtus communis et var., Bauera 
rubioides, Poeonia Moutan, P. papaveracea, Indigofera, several species ; 
Lavatera, several species ; Edwardsia, several species ; Genista, several 
species ; Correa alba, Malva, several species ; Pittosporum, most of the 
genus ; Mesemh^anthenium, many species ; Lonicera, several species ; 
Hibberiia, several species ; Ononis, several species ; Agapanthus, all the 
genus ; Verbena, several species ; Geranium and Erodium, many Cape 
species ; Anthyllis, several species ; Medicago arborea, the Nepal Rhodo- 
dendrons and tender English hybrids, and many others, {See Select List 
of Cold Pit Plants.) 

In situations natiu'ally warm and sheltered a whole slu'ubbery might be 
thus formed, and covered at no great expense. It must be, however^ 
remarked, that it is only in favourable situations where this species of 
cultiu'e can be supposed to succeed ; in those that are unfavourable it would 
be folly to attempt it upon any scale. Plants so treated will be found to 
succeed much better than those planted against a waU, which, although 
often practised, has been experimentally proved to be not the most ehgible 
situation in which to plant exotics ^vith a view to their being kept out of 
doors during winter. 



265 



THE COLD PIT. 



The Cold Pit is one of the most useful of all plant stmctures. A pit of 
considerable length may be erected at little expense, and the number of 
plants that may be kept in it during winter is almost unknown, and the 
trouble attending them very little. This is also a plant structure that 
almost every person who has a garden, ever so small, may indulge in. The 
Cold Pit, as will be seen by referring to the annexed sketch, differs not 
from pits in ordinary use. As the principal object in view is to keep out 
frost, we would advise that the pit be formed of nine-inch brick-work, 
both back and front ; and where the ground is sufficiently dry, that it be 
as much under the surface as possible, but on no account sink it if danger 
from damp be apprehended. The bottom, under all circumstances, should 




be upon a foundation of broken stones, brickbats, or coai'se gravel, to 
admit of the free escape of superfluous moisture. The floor on wliich the 
l)ots are to stand should be formed of coal ashes, which is the driest material 
that can conveniently be obtained. The lights should be well glazed, the 
squares small, and the laps puttied. The best covering to place over the 



266 



THE COLD PIT. 



roof is the patent tan-ed paper or felt, Dutch reeu mats, or straw mats, all 
of which not only resist the cold, but carry off the water that falls on 
them. During the most intense frost a covering of fine meadow hay, 
dried fern, or wheat straw, may be laid upon the glass, and over that 
either of the above coverings that may be most conveniently procured. 
Common bass mats may be used, but they are inferior to either of the 
above, both in durability, economy, and in the capability of throwing off 
the water. 

The annexed pit is an improvement on the Cold Pit in general use, and 
consists of walls built hollow, which are well known to resist cold better 
than sohd walls of the same thickness. The plants are set on a boarded floor, 
with sufficient apertures to admit of the superfluous water passing through 




and falling into the empty space under them. A circulation of air is kept up 
by opening the Tentilators a a, which, passing through the empty space 
h, and up through the flooring and amongst the plants, is beneficial to 
them, and prevents damp from accumulating in the bottom of the pit. 
Such a pit as this, one hundred feet in length and six or seven feet wide, 
would contain a fine collection of plants, and might be divided into four 
or five compartments by party walls, or by moveable wooden partitions, 
as in the ground plan, and an arrangement followed somewhat similar to 
that recommended in the foregoing pages. To render such a pit com- 
plete, a two or three inch pipe might be made to circulate round it under 
the platform, to be heated by hot water from a small boiler placed at th« 



ITS MANAGEMENT AND UTILITY. 



267 



middle or at either of the ends, as at c. Such an arrangement would be 
very complete, and is undoubtedly the most economical stmcture that can 
be erected for the cultivation of greenhouse exotics. 

With such materials as these, most of the plants usually found in our 
greenhouses may be safely kept during the winter, and indeed many of 
them much better. The management of such pits is of the simplest 
kind possible, and may be stated briefly as follows : — Admit as much air 
as possible at all times by removing the lights entirely during the day 
when the weather is dry and mild, and by propping them up both in 
front and at the back when it is cold or rainy. Allow the plants suffi- 
cient room to grow, that is, place them so that they do not touch each 
other. "Remove decayed leaves as they appear, and all other matters 
likely to generate damp or rottenness. Give no more water during winter 
than enough to keep the plants in good health, and spill as little of it as 
possible in the pit during the period when it is much shut up. Cover 
carefully in time of frost early in the afternoon, and uncover as early in 
the morning as can be done prudently. Frequently examine the plants, 
and change their position two or three times between November and 
March. Keep the pots plunged in scoria or ashes, or similar non-con- 
ductors, to prevent the roots of the plants from being frozen. 

Such pits, and even ones of less sohdity, as well as Common garden 
frames, are much used by the best commercial cultivators, who find great 
advantage from their use ; we only wonder that they are not much more 
generally used in private gardens, particularly in those of amateurs. Of 
course such pits are used chiefly for small and low-growing plants, 
that is, from two feet in height to two or three inches. It is, however, 
to be recollected that many hundreds of plants in the best state of culti- 
vation are under the above height. Thus the greater part of the beautiful 
and never-fading family of Erica, Pelargonium, most bulbous-rooted 
plants, most herbaceous greenhouse plants, and many others, are of this 
description. The Messrs. Rollinsons, of Tooting, who have been long 
celebrated for their successful cultivation of heaths, use pits and frames 
to winter them in : Henderson, of Pine Apple Place, one of the first plant 
cultivators round London, cultivates thousands of plarts by the same 
means ; and in pits simply constructed of old boarding, with earth banked 
round them, the Messrs. Loddiges now keep a very considerable por- 
tion of their immense stock of greenhouse plants, as do many others 
of the most extensive London cultivators. We state these instances with 
the view to give confidence to those who are fond of plants and cannot 



268 



THE COLD PIT. 



indulge in them, from supposing it absolutely necessary to have a green- 
house for their protection. 

To the genera enumerated as fit plants for the Protecting Tent, 
{which seey) many more might be added as calculated for the Cold 
Pit : indeed, it is more difficult to say -svhat plants, strictly greenhouse 
ones, will not thrive in such a structure, than to enumerate those that 
will. Those in the following Ust, however, are capable of being well 
cultivated in the Cold Pit. 

^ye have been principally induced to compile this List with a view to 
direct the attention of cultivators, particularly amateur ones, to the possi- 
bihty of indulging in the growth of exotic plants without going to the 
expense of erecting greenhouses for their protection. We shaU also, from 
a somewhat similar motive, prepare an extensive List of Plants, under the 
head of Acclimatizing, which have hitherto been considered as strictly in- 
habitants of the Greenhouse, but which experience has proved will stand 
in the open air of our best-situated gardens in ordiuaiy seasons. 



269 



SELECT LIST OF COLD PIT PLANTS. 



Maytenus boaria 
Olea^fragrans 

europaea, vars. 
Jasminum glaucum 

acuminatum"^ 
divaricatum 
azoricum 
odoratissimum 
grandiflorum 
capense 
Notelaea, all the genus. 
Veronica parviflora 
decussata 
perfoliata 
Campylantlius salsoloides 
Calceolaria, all the genus. 
Salvia canariensis 
aurea 

angustifolia 
leucantha 
dentata 
formosa 
mexicana 
scabra 
rugosa 
Gunnisra perpensa 
Fontanesia pbillyraeoides 
Cneorum, all the genus. 
Spermazyron striatum 
Ixia, all the genus, as also Trichonema, 
Geissorhiza, Sparaxis, Tritonia, Wat- 
sonia, Babinia, Lapeyrousia, Gladio- 
lus, Synnotia, Antbolyza, Anoma- 
theca, Anisanthus, Wachendorfia, 
Haemodorum, Aristea, Dilatris, 
Brodiaea, Moraea, Renealmia, Bo- 
bartia, Vieusseuxia. 
Sisyrinchium bermudianum 
convolulum 
tenuifolium 
luteum 
californicum 
iridifolium 
laxum 

Persoonia, most of the genus. 
Grevillea, most of the genus. 
Hakea, most of the genus. 
Lomatia, most of the genus. 
Banksia, most of the genus. 
Dryandi-a, most of the genus. 



Opercularia, all the genus. 
Campborosma monspeliaca 
Elaeagnus orientalis 
arborea 
acuminata 
Globularia longifolia 
Al)Tpum 
spinosa 
Scabiosa cretica 
Rubia splendens 

angustifolia 
Asperula brevifolia 
Callicarpa americana 

rubella 
Penaea, all the genus. 
Blaeria, all the genus. 
Pavetta arenosa 
Ernodea montana 
Curtisia faginea 
Hartogia capensis 
Ilex chinensis 
crocea 
Parade 
Daboon 
angustifolia 
vomitoria 
Plumbago capensis 
Cyclamen, all the genus. 
Logania floribimda 

latifolia 
Vestia lycioides 
Verbascum spinosum 
Convolvulus pannifoUus 
farinosus 
Cenorum 
linearis 
floridus 
Lubinia atropurpurea 
Azalea indica, and its varieties. 
Nerium Oleander, and its varieties. 
Sideroxylon inerme 
Arduina bispinosa 
Pasderia foetida 
Solanum crispum 
Balbesii 
Campanula aurea 
mollis 
saxatilis 
fruticosa 
Lobelia Tupa 



270 



THE COLD PIT. 



Lobelia bellidifoiia 
hirsuta 
lutea 

pubescens 
ilicifolia 
erinus 
crenata 
decumbens 
coronopifolia 
Trachelium caeruleum 
diffusum 
Caprifolium japonicum 
flexuosum 
Serissa foetida 

flore pleno 
Gardenia florida 

radicans 
Mussasnda pubescens 
Pinckneya pubens 
Celastrus lucida 

cassinoides 
cymosa 
Euonymus japonicum 
Ceanothus microphylla 
asiatica 
africana 
azurea 
Stavia radiata 

glutinosa 
Pomaderris, all the genus. 
Pittosporum, all the genus, feiTugine- 

um excepted. 
Bursaria spinosa 
Hovenia dulcis 

inaequalis 
Viola arborescens 
Chenolea diifusa 
Gentiana viscosa 
Bunialda triflora 
Cussonia spicata 

thyrsiliora 
Anabasis tameriscifolia 
Kocliia prostrata 

sericea 
Bosea Yervamora 
Ulmus cbinensis 
Bubon Galbanum 
Isevigatum 
Bupleurum spine sum 
coriaceum 
frutescens 
Vibernum odoratissimum 
Rhus, all the Cape of Good Hope 

species. 
Cassine capensis 
Colpoon 
Linum flavum 

suffruticosum 
arboreum 
narbonense 
Statice auric ulsefolia 
emarginata 
cordata 
scabra 
spathulata 



Statice purpurata 

pectinata 

sulfruticosa 

sinuata 

mucronata 

macrophylla 

ae^Dtiaca 
Anigozanthos, all the genus. 
Haemanthus, all the genus. 
Cyrtantlius, all the genus. 
Brunsvigia, all the genus. 
Nerine, nearly all the genus. 
Amaryllis, nearly all the genus, and all 

the English hybrids. 
Vallota purpurea 
Zepheranthus, all the genus. 
Doryantlius excel sa 
Getbyllus, all the genus. 
Alstroemeria, all the genus. 
Hypoxis, nearly all the genus. 
Ag-apantlius, all the genus. 
Blandfordia nobilis 
Uvularia chinensis 
Ophiopogon japonicus 

spicatus 
Eucomis, all the genus. 
Brodiaea, all the genus. 
Sowerbsea juncea 
Albuca, all the genus. 
Antbericum, most of the genus. 
Arthropodium paniculatum 

cirratum 
Dianella, all the genus. 
Asparagus alb us 

acutifolius 
Drimia, all the genus. 
Lachenalia, all the genus. 
Phormium tenax 
Pi'inos lucidus 
Nandina domestica 
Canarina campanulata 
Disandra prostrata 
Calla aetliiopica 
aromatica 
Ceptus, all the genus. 
Tropaeolum, all the genus. 
Corrasa, all the genus. 
Bseckia, all the genus. 
Erica, most of the genus. 
Fuchsia, all the genus. 
Vaccineum myrtifolium 
Daphne odora 
Gnidia simplex 
Laurus camphora 

indica 

foetens 
Anagyris foetida 
latifolia 
indica 
Virgilia capensis 

intrusa 
Baptisia perfoliata 
Chorizema, most of the gen us. 
Callistachys ovatus 

lanceolatiis 



SELECT LIST OF COLD PIT PLANTS. 



271 



Brachysema latifolium 
undulatum 
Eutaxia, all the genus. 
Pultenaea, most of the genus. 
Ruta albiflora 
pinnata 
Rhododendron arboreum 

campanulatum 
Enkiantlius, all the genus. 
Arbutus canariensis 
phillyreaefolia 
serratifolia 
mucronata 
Clethra arborea 
Royena, all the genus, 
Cunonia capensis 
Saxifraga ligulata 

sarmentosa 
cong-esta 
Diaiithus arboreus 
fi'uticosus 
crenatus 
Oxalis, all the genus. 
Lychnis coronata 
Bejaria racemosa 
Callicoma serratifolia 
Reseda scoparia 

fruticulosa 
Sempervivum, most of the genus. 
Leptospermiim, all the genus. 
Fabricia, all the genus. 
Metrosideros, most of the genu^. 
Myrtus communis et vars. 
Eucalyptus, all the genus. 
Pi'unus prostrata 
Photinia serrulata 
arbutifoiia 
dubia 
Raphiolepis indica 
rubra 
salicifolia 
Eriobotrya japonica 
Mesembryanthemum, many species. 
Rosa berberifolia 
involucrata 
odoratissima 
Lawranceana 
microphylla 
Rubus rosaefolius 
pinnatus 
rugosus 
Capparis spinosa 
Sarracenia, all the genus. 
Helianthemum, all the genus requiring 

protection. 
Bauera, all the genus. 
Hibbertia, all the genus. 
Reaumuria liypericoides 
Illicium, all the genus. 
Magnolia conspicua 
obovata 
tomentosa 
pumila 
mscata 
annonaefolia 



Anemone vitifolia 

capensis 
Clematis chinensis 

Seiboldii 

azurea grandiflora of the 
gardens. 

balearica 
aristata 
Knowltonia rigida 

vesicatoria 
Teucrium, all the species requiring jiru- 

tection. 
Westringia, all the genus. 
Saturej a Juliana 

Teneriffae 
graeca 
tenuifolia 
Thymbra spicata 

Yerticiilata 
Lavandula StcEcbas 
viridis 
dentata 
pinnata 
Sideritis canariensis 
candicans 
syrica 
taurica 
incana 
cretica 

Marrubium Pseudodictamnus 
Phlomis Lychnitis 
Leonotis Leonurus 
ovata 

Origanum Dictamnus 

sipyleum 
Tli^Tnus Mastichina 

cephalotus 

villosus 
Dracocephalum canariense 
Scutellaria cretica 
Prasium majus 

mil; us 
Meliantbus major 
minor 

Aloysia citriodora 
Selago, all the species. 
Verbena, all the species requiring pro- 
tection. 
Stenochilus glabra 

maculata 
Halleria lucida 
Antirrhinum moUe 

Asarina 
Linaria triornithophora 
bipartita 
tristis 
Mimulus glutinosa 
Isoplexis canariensis 

sceptrum 
Manulea viscosa 

rubra 
Alonsoa acutifolia 
incisifolia 
linearis 
Mathiola odoratissima 



272 



THE COLD PIT. 



Mathiola tristis 

Cheiranthiis, all the species requiring 

protection. 
Iberis sempei'fiorens 

sribraltarica 
Galaxia ovata 

crraminea 

Erodiiim, all the species reqmri?ig pro- 
tection. 

Pelarg-ouium, all the genus and va- 
rieties. 
Geranium anemonefolia 
Malva. all the Cape of Good Hope 

species. 
Lavatera micans 

Olbia 

liispida 

triloba 
Pavonia pra?morsa 
Hibiscus Patersonii 

acerifolius 

Manihot 

pedunculatu? 

stri2:osus 
Camellia. ^7^/ the varieties. 
;Muraltia Heisteria 

mixta 
]Mundia spiuosa 
Er^'tlii'iDa herbacea 
caffra 

Crista-2:alli 
laurifolia 
Borbonia. all the penus. 
Crotalaria cordifolia 
pm'purea 
Templetonia retusa 
g-lauca 
Goodia lotifolia 

pubescens 
Loddisfesia oxalidifolia 
Spartiiim, ^7// the species requiring pro- 
tection. 

Genista,, all the species requiring pro- 
tection. 

Ononis, all the species requiring pro- 
tection. 

Anthyllis, all the species requiring pro- 
tection. 
AmoiTpba niicropliylla 

pubescens 

canescens 

nana 

croceo-lanara 
Glycine reniformis 

Cuisus, all the species requiring pro ^ 

tection. 
Swainsonia g-aleg-ifolia 

coroiiilliiolia 
Coronilla g-lauca 

valentina 
viminalis 
coronata 
minima 

Psoralea, all the species requiring pro- 
tection. 



Lotus jacobaeus, et var. lutea. 

creticus 
Don'cnium monspeliense 
Medicagfo arborea 
Beaufortia decussata 

sparsa 
S\Tnploco5 tinctoria 
sinica 

Citrus, all the varieties. 
H}'pericum folios urn 

floribunda 

canariense 

monog^Tium 

balearicum 

rosmarinifolium 

^laucum 

Coris 

glandulosum 
retlexum 
Ascyrum, all the genus. 
Chrysocoma comaurea 
cernua 
scabra 

Tarchonantlius camphoratus 
Ixodia achillaeoides 
Artemisia arsrentea 

judaica 

valentina 

tenuifolia 

chiuensis 

Baccharis, all the species requiring pro- 
tection. 

Seuecio elegrans, et vars. 

Aster, all the species requiring pro- 
tection. 

Cineraria, all the species requiring pro- 
tection. 

Cbn-santliemum pinnatifidum 
indicimi 

sinense, icith its vars. 
Vide Select List of Chrgsanthefnum^ . 
P\Tethnim, all the species requiring 

'protection. 
Buplithalmum fi-utescens 

arborescens 

sericeum 
Callamia, all the genus. 
Berckbeya. all the genus. 
Didelta, all the genus. 
Gazania, all the genug. 
AiTtotbeca repens 
Spbenogyne, all the genus. 
Calendula, all the species requiring j>ro- 

tcction 
Arctotis, all the genus. 
Osteospermum, all the genus. 
Othonna. all the genus. 
Hippia frutescens 
Erioceplialus. all the genus. 
CEdera prolifera 
Stcebe, all the genus. 
Cassinia am-ea 

leptophylla 
Stylidium adnatum 
Gunuera pei^pensa 



SELECT LIST OF COLD PIT PLANTS. 



273 



Casuarina, all the germs. 
Schizandra coccinea 
Tranzeria. all the genus. 
M>Tica, all the genus requiring pro- 
tection. 
Pistacia atlantica 

Lentiscus 
Xerotes lonsrifolia 

ri^fda 
Schinus molle 

dentata 
Euclea racemosa 
undulata 
Cliffortia, all the genus. 
Petunia, all the genus. 
Escallonia, all the genus. 
Cyclobothra, all the genus. 
Calochortus, all the genus. 



Calampelis scabra 
Adesmia microphylla 
Ajia^allii, all the genus. 
Berberis, all the species requiring pro- 
tection. 
Gardoquia Gilliesii 
Kag-eneckia cratoe^oides 
Leptostelma maximum 
Loasa hispida 
incana 
Lomaria Patersoni 
lanceolata 
Lophospermmn erubescens 
Selago Gillii 
Sopbora macrocarpa 
Sollya beteropbylla 
Spbacele campamilata. 




r 



274 



STOVE, OR TROPICAL PLANTS. 

The cultivation of tropical plants is much more limited than that of the 
other exotics we have treated of, and is, consequently, much less under- 
stood, nor does it appear that they will ever become so generally popular 
in this country, on account of the great expense attending their culture. 
There is happily, however, a variety of tastes in regard to plants, as in 
all other matters, and hence we find some directing their attention to 
this particular department with much zeal and perseverance. 

Stove plants are exceedingly interesting, and many of them present a 
most splendid appearance, both in foHage and blossom. Amongst them 
we may enumerate, as vegetable curiosities, the extraordinary Nepenthes 
distillatoria, or Chinese pitcher plant, the arborescent ferns of St. Helena 
and the West Indies, the bread-fruit tree, with many other fruits of great 
delicacy and richness of flavour ; the palm, some of the leaves of which 
would cover an entire dwelling, and the fruit of others furnish the food 
of its inhabitants. Many of our most important vegetable medicines, 
such as jesuit's-bark, balsam of copavi, cinnamon, jalap, ipecacuana, and 
many others, are found amongst them : others are intimately connected 
with the arts; Jamaica ebony, mahogany, lancewood, teak, and the 
cotton-tree have become amongst our most valuable commercial importa- 
tions ; and as articles almost indispensable for food may be mentioned 
coffee, sago, chocolate, pepper, arrowroot, sugar, and ginger, and all the 
other spices. 

Stoves have hitherto been considered as of two kinds only, viz., the 
dry stove, and the humid, or moist stove ; and indeed this distinction has 
been far from being sufficiently attended to. In the former are cultivated 
plants requiring a temperature varying from a minimum of sixty degrees 
to ninety degrees as a maximum, and notwithstanding this great heat, 
requiring, or rather receiving, comparatively but little water ; while the 
other, with a corresponding high temperature, can scarcely be kept too 
moist. 

The improvements of the present age have suggested the propriety of 



VENTILATION. 



275 



a third kind of stove, in which are cultivated a section of plants which 
for singularity of structure, elegance of flowering, and often a high 
degree of the most dehghtful fragrance, is not approached by any plants 
hitherto discovered. This structure is termed the Orchideous House, 
the most complete specimens of which are those of Messrs. Loddiges, 
Rollenson's, and Knight's, and we may add that, so far as our observation 
has extended, they are the only commercial cultivators who appear rightly 
to understand the cultivation of these extraordinary and at present 
fashionable plants. It might appear invidious were we to pass over the 
Clapton nursery without mention, as it is well known that the highly 
respectable proprietor, Mr. Low, has been at great expense in sending out 
collectors to enrich his own and facihtate the collections of private * 
individuals. 

ON THE ERECTION OF STOVES FOR TROPICAL PLANTS. 

We have in another part of this work treated somewhat at large on the 
subject of hot-house architecture : it remains only for us to state here that 
structures intended for the cultivation of stove or tropical plants should be 
rendered as close as possible by adopting the most approved modes of 
glazing, by which means the cold air will be prevented from entering 
the house in too great a quantity, and in consequence a vast economy in 
the consumption of fuel will be the result. It should always be kept in 
mind, that the smaller the quantity of fire heat applied to plants the 
better, because the more it is used the more highly rarefied will the 
air within the house become, and consequently the less fit for plants to 
live in. 

VENTILATION. 

The degree of ventilation required in the stove is of much importance. 
Puttying the laps, and having few openings or moveable lights, will 
effectually exclude the cold and retain the warm air, admitting at the 
same time a sufficiency of fresh for the plants, for air becomes lighter, 
and has a tendency to ascend, when in a heated state, and to descend, 
but much more rapidly, when in a cold state. Hence the top of a hot- 
house is always the warmest, and for that reason flues, hot-water or 
steam pipes ought alvrays to be placed as near to the floor as possible, 
but so as to be clear of it. 

The nature of heated air being thus far imderstood, it follows that in 

T 2 



276 



THE TROPICAL HOUSE. 



ventilating a hot-house the operation ought to begin by letting down the 
top lights, or opening the top ventilators (if such exist), to an extent vary- 
ing according to the state of the weather, for opening either to the extent 
of two inches when the external air is at the freezing point will be equal 
to opening the same to the extent of four inches when the external air is 
about forty-five or fifty degrees of temperature, or to a foot or more when 
the thermometer indicates summer heat in the open air, because then 
the external and internal air is nearly upon a par, and the circulation is 
nearly stationary, whereas in the former cases the circulation is extremely 
rapid ; the cold air without, by its gravit)^, forcing its way into every 
little opening over the whole surface of the house, and forcing the 
warmer and lighter air out of the top openings ; in this way the whole 
volume of air mthin a stove is changed in a very short time. It is 
necessary for summer operations to have some of the front or lower lights 
in the stove moveable, or to have (what we think a better plan) venti- 
lators in the fi'ont or parapet wall. By a judicious working of these in 
conjunction with the top hghts, ventilation will be most effectually at- 
tained. There are few things in gardening less understood than the 
theory of ventilation, although it is daily in use in every kind of structure, 
from the hand-glass to the most magnificent conservatory ; the operator 
too often opening that part of the structure most convenient to himself, 
■v\4thout once thinking of the consequences. We beheve that the first 
correct principles upon this subject were laid down about thirty years 
ago, by W. Atkinson, Esq., and first exemphfied in the hot-house of tlie 
Earl of Mansfield, at Scoone Palace, in Perthshire, under his superin- 
tendence. We remember w^ell the opposition his theory met with 
amongst practical men long before we had the pleasure of that excel- 
lent person's acquaintance, to whom we owe far more information on 
the subject of hot-house architecture than to all the books we have 
perused. 

Some very curious mechanical propositions have been advanced by Mr. 
Kewley and others, on the possibihty of constructing self-acting venti- 
lators ; but these have not as yet arrived at that degree of perfection to 
warrant our recommending them. 

HEATING. 

Next to ventilation, as respects houses for the cultivation of tropical 
plants, is the subject of a judicious and economical method of heating 
them ; but this subject we have treated on so fully in the early part of 



WATERING, 



277 



this work as to leave us little to add here, beyond the recommendation of 
laying down a sufficient number of pipes, if for hot water, or properly 
constructed flues, if heating by that means be preferred, and to bear in 
mind that it is better to have two small furnaces to one house than one 
large one, both for the more equal diffusion of heat and economy of fuel. 

WATER. 

Water being an element so essentially necessary to the existence of 
plants, and as it is required in abundance where tropical plants are grown, 
we would recommend that it be laid on by pipes from some convenient 
source, and that arrangements should be made for retaining that which 
faills on the roof in time of rain in a tank, cistern, or reservoir of suffici- 
ent capacity to contain a supply during the droughts of summer, at which 
time it is most required. This cistern should be placed over the fire- 
place, or near to it, so that the water it contains may always be of a 
proper temperature for immediate application to the plants. And that 
this may be the more completely accomphshed, a pipe of two inches 
diameter or so may be carried down from the cistern to the side of the 
furnace; but without bringing it in immediate contact with the fire, 
merely passing it along one side of the furnace and making it re-enter the 
cistern again near to its surface. The column of water occupying this 
pipe wiU become heated by passing along near to the fire : a circulation 
wlQ thus be created^ which wiU. render the whole mass of water in the 
cistern of a genial warmtli, and fit for use. A mode of diffusing water in 
Stoves has been long in operation in the extensive palm stove of Messrs. 
Loddiges, by means of small leaden pipes, arranged over the inner surface 
of the roof: these pipes being perforated with many small holes, and being 
subjected to considerable pressure, when the water is let on, it is thrown 
over the house like a fine shower of rain. This is a most ingenious mode 
of watering, and well calculated for the purpose ^lessrs. Loddiges in- 
tended it, \\iiich is, to water their immense palms and other very large 
tropical trees, which, from their great size, are not likely to be injured 
by too copious a supply : for smaller and more deUcate plants, however, 
and for plant-stoves in general, this plan is objectionable, because the 
diffusion is so equal over the whole house that such plants as do not 
require it, nay, that may be injured by it, have an equal share with 
those which require it the most. The application of water being a matter 
of much consequence to all plants, an injudicious use of it by giving too 
much is as bad as giving too httle. Plants, therefore, when considered 



278 



THE TROPICAL HOUSE. 



individually, must be watered by the hand, and the mind directed at the 
same time to the state that each individual is found to be in, and also its 
nature and disposition, for some plants require much, while others require 
little, of this element. 

BOTTOM HEAT. 

Bottom heat, as a general rule, has long ago been abandoned by the best 
cultivators in this country, but pertinaciously adhered to by most of the 
gardeners on the continent. Experience has proved the advantage of the 
change, both by the saving effected in the pm'chase of tan, and lessening 
of labour, and the benefit the plants have experienced from it ; and this 
can be accounted for on rational principles, for as all natural heat 
is derived from the sun, and is diffused in the atmosphere which sur- 
rounds plants in their natural state, so the heat to stove-plants should in 
like manner be derived from the atmosphere of the house, and not, as in 
former practice, from beds of tan, leaves, or other fermentable matter 
placed under them. But although this rule holds good in general prac- 
tice, there are extraordinary cases where it must be deviated from, and 
which will be noticed in the proper place. The plants in general should 
stand on a dry, level surface, formed of gravel, scoriae, or similar materials, 
capable of allowing a free draining for the superfluous water. 

THE SIZE AND FORM OF TROPICAL PLANT STOVES. 

The size of plant stoves, as we have remarked when treating of green- 
houses, depends on a variety of circumstances, of which the taste, means, 
and object of the proprietor are the principal. Few of any extraordinary 
dimensions have been erected in Britian, a variety of causes combining to 
operate against them. Those at Sion, a view of which we have chosen 
for one of our illustrations, are the most extensive in the neighbourhood 
of London, and those erecting at Chatsworth and Woburn Abbey, the 
most magnificent in the country. The taste for plants is more generally 
diffused in England than in any other country, but that taste is chiefly 
confined to people of moderate fortunes, whose plant erections must of 
necessity be of moderate dimensions also. The government in this re- 
spect is much behind that of France, Austria, or Prussia, each of which 
has houses of vast dimensions for the cultivation of the plants of warmer 
climates. No one can view the houses in the Jardin'des Plantes at Paris, 
or those at Schonbrunn, or Rennwegg, in Germany, without regretting that 



HOT-HOUSE AT SCHOXBRUXX. 



279 



we should be in this respect so much behind our less wealthy neighbours. 
We are by no means advocates for large hot-houses generally, but we 
think that such a garden as Kew should contain one house at least equal 
,to that at Schonbrunn, of which Townson, a traveller of the last century, 
observes that the hot-houses " are the most spacious that have yet been 
constructed in Europe ; the trees of the tropics there develope their 
branches at full hberty, and bear flowers and fruits/^ The annexed 
sketch will give some idea of a part of this extensive stove, as it at 
present exists. 




To cultivate Tropical plants in the first degree of excellence, reqmres 
separate houses for different sections of plants ; and as we have shown, we 
hope pretty cleaiiy, when treating of greenhouse plants, the utility of these 
sub -divisions, we shall proceed to sketch out what we consider the best 
sub-divisions for natives of the tropics, which ought to be as follows : — 

THE HUMID STOVE, THE DRY STOVE, THE ORCHIDE^ STOVE, THE AftU BA- 
RIUM, THE PALM STOVE, THE TROPICAL FRUIT STOVE, THE SCITAMINE-5 
OR REEDY PLANT STOVE, and THE CRYPTOGAMIC STOVE. 

The latter of these is quite indispensable where the cultivation of the 
plants belonging to them are indulged in ; but as these can only be ex- 
pected in establishments of the highest order, we shall be brief in our 
observations on them, at least for the present, and proceed to describe 
more fully the three first, as being by far more generally in use. 



280 



THE TROPICAL HOUSE. 



Tropical plant culture requii-es also another species of improvement, 
namely, distinguishing what plants really require the temperature of the 
stove from those which do not ; for there are some in most collections 
that would thrive much better if kept in the greenhouse or conservatory. 

Some have recommended a botanical or systematic arrangement for plants 
in houses ; we can, however, see no real utihty in the plan^ beyond that 
of arranging them into groups or sections suitable for their better culture. 
No complete system of scientific arrangement can possibly be illustrated 
by plants in houses, because in many natural orders not one single speci- 
men requiring protection is to be found, and in many others, the plants 
of which may be more tender, the culture they require is diametrically 
opposite in some genera. The arrangement we have proposed, however, 
admits of a very pleasing sub-arrangement in respect to some orders 
which require nearly the same mode of treatment. For instance, the 
numerous family of heaths {Erica) may be arranged in the heathery, so 
that each species may follow that most nearly related to it, without 
interfering with the routine of culture. The same may be also said of 
succulent plants and bulbs ; but then it should be remembered that in 
neither of these cases do the plants all belong to one natural order^ 
strictly speaking. Such being the case, therefore, we think few will 
attempt any other mode of an-angement than that we have pointed out^ 
or perhaps one founded upon it, better calculated to suit the local cir- 
cumstances of the collection. 



281 



THE HUMID OR MOIST STOVE. 

In the construction of a stove of this description, which we may here 
obser\"e is by far the most common in use, much depends on the taste 
and object of the owner, the kind of collection that he intends to culti- 
vate, and whether he is ambitious of possessing specimens of extraordinary 
magnitude, or is content with small-growing and free-flowering kinds. 
We have hitherto in these brief observations recommended rather low 
houses, as being best calculated for the growth of fine-flowering plants 
that are not intended to be allowed to attain a very large size : however, 
the case materially differs when specimens of large growth are more desir- 
able, and lofty and extensive structures must be formed for them ; and, 




therefore, in this, as in all similar cases, the size, particulariy the light 
ought to be regulated by the description of plants intended to be culti 



282 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



vated. For example, palms, musas, &c., require houses of the greatest 
altitude to enable them to develope their fronds and leaves to their fullest 
extent. 

A very good stove for the culture of such plants as require with a high 
temperature a corresponding degree of humidity, or indeed for general 
purposes, may be of any required length, and ten or twelve feet high at 
the back, and from from twelve to sixteen feet in width. Such a house 
should have a bed or platform in the middle, as at «, a walk, h all 
round, three feet in breadth, and the flues, c, in front, and d f dX the 
back, over v^hich a trellised platform should be placed for the reception of 
plants, both over the front and topmost back flue also. If hot water or 
steam pipes be used in preference to smoke flues, they should of course 
occupy the same places marked as flues in the section. A neat trellised 



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arch may be placed under every other rafter over the front footpath, and 
these joined with other arches of a single half-inch rod of iron, to which 
the most delicate chmbing plants may be trained. The stronger growing 
kinds to be planted in large pots plunged in the bed, and trained to upright 
rods of iron under every rafter, both for support and ornament. Over 
the back flues should be placed three courses of shelves for the reception 
of plants while in a dormant state, and which require to be kept dry, 
such as Gloxinia^ Gesneria, &c. Such a house a this, forty feet long, 
may be heated by one fire, either by a common smoke flue or hot-water 
boiler and pipes ; but as the additional expense in the first instance 
will not be much, it will be better to have two furnaces, the second 
to be considered merely as supplementary, and to be used only in case 



COXSTRUCTION. 



283 



of accident, or extremely hard frosts. The first furnace is placed in the 
shed behind, at a, in ground plan, and over it should be placed a capa- 
cious cistern, to be suppHed with water, and regulated by a ball-cock. 
This water will always be in a state sufficiently warm to be apphed to the 
plants, and for greater convenience it should be admitted into the house 
by means of a short pipe through the back wall. This first course of 
flues to enter the house at ^, proceed round the front and both ends to c, 
where it will return along the back flue d in the section, to the point where 
it first entered, and escape by the!; chimney. The second fire-flue to enter 
at e, and make two turns in the back flues at c /, and escape by the 
chimney over the point where it first entered the house. Such a house 
as this is capable of growing tropical plants of moderate size to the fullest 
degree of excellence. 

To those ambitious of more splendid houses, we can with safety, we 
presume, recommend the sketch at page 233, which shows the inte- 
rior of a splendid conservatory, one hundred feet in length, and fifty 
feet in width, and twenty-five feet in greatest height. Such a structure, 
dedicated to the cultivation of tropical plants, would have a very impos- 
ing efi^ect, and be at the same time extremely well calculated for their 
growth. The roof is composed of two spans, each springing from the 
top of the ornamental iron columns, of which there are four rows, and 
being hollow to conduct the water of the roof to a large reservoir under- 
neath the floor, from whence it is pumped up as required for the use of 
the house, and supply of the steam or hot-water boilers employed in heat- 
ing the atmosphere of the structure. Those parts of the roof which are 
over the foot-paths are opaque, and upon them is placed a cast-iron 
trellised grating for the purpose of walking upon when necessary to repair 
the roof or ventilator, or even as an elevated promenade, from whence not 
only the plants within may be viewed, but the garden and grounds 
around. The species of elevated promenade is very fashionable on the 
continent, and one of the best specimens of the kind we have seen is 
that of the immense range of exotic plant -houses erected by the Due 
d^Aremberg; at Enghien, in the Netherlands, and which is four hundred 
and sixty feet long. 

The proportions of the house, of which our figure will give some idea, 
are, we think, perfect ; its length, however, might be extended without 
aftecting the perfection of the principle, which we take to be in the 
breadth, and more especially in the height. Houses, such as the centre 
part of the range at Sion House, (see page 4,) however imposing they 
may look when newed from without, are any thing but calculated for 



284 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



the cultivation of the plants that are grown within. Such lofty houses have 
much the same effect upon plants, whether planted out in borders or 
grown in pots, that bell-glasses have upon tender plants placed under 
them ; and, however high the one or the other may be, if we leave the 
stems and lower parts destitute of branches, the plants will, if permitted, 
reach their tops. In regard to heating a house for tropical plants, such as 
that represented by our figure, we should say steam would be the most com- 
plete, because such a house, in our opinion, should be connected with the 
mansion, and if opening into the drawing-room, library, or saloon, would 
form a splendid connection with them, particularly when seen by candle 
or gas light. The temperature also would not, particularly at night, be 
much above that of an ordinary sitting-room, for it should be kept in 
mind that houses of such dimensions, and which must be always con- 
sidered as erected more for display than for cultivation, should contain 
only such plants as will prosper in a temperature of which fifty-seven or 
sixty degrees may be taken for a minimum. Such being the case, the steam 
apparatus may be conveniently placed under some part of the building, 
and the steam which may not be required for the conservatory may be ad- 
vantageously employed for a variety of domestic purposes, of which the 
kitchen is not the least important. Hot water no doubt would heat such 
a house perfectly, but we question whether it could be done upon so eco- 
nomical a scale. The steam or hot-water pipes should be placed in a 
sufficient chamber under the pavement, extending all round the house, 
and also through the middle, under the centre walk, the heated air being 
allowed to ascend through brass ventilators let into the floor at regular 
distances. Such a structure may be completely constructed of timber, 
excepting the columns which support the roof, which ought always to be 
of iron. The opaque part of the roof over the foot paths ought in that case 
to be of deal, well painted on the outside, and hned also with deal within, 
leaving a span the thickness of the semi-circular battens, which will pre- 
vent the admission of cold, or escape of heat, by inclosing between them 
a volume of air, which is the best of all non-conductors. 

The plants should be all planted in tubs, boxes, or large pots, and 
plunged in a bed of scoria, or river sand, and covered over with various 
species of mosses, which can be made very ornamental, and are easily 
repaired. Were the plants planted out in the beds, as is usually done, 
the stronger growing sorts would in a short time completely overgrow the 
tenderer ones, and often the most valuable, and in the course of eighteen 
months after planting the whole would become a mass of confusion and 
disorder ; whereas, by having the plants portable, their luxuriance would 



PEOPAGATIOX AXD TREATMENT. 



285 



be limited into something like the space they have to grow in, and if 
any change in the arrangement suggest itself to the owner, it can be 
readily eifected. The boxes, tubs, or pots may be hid entirely by the 
mode suggested for the conservatory, and the whole appearance will be 
as if they were really planted out without any of the inconvenience of that 
ridiculous practice. 

To those who might object to such capacious houses, we would re- 
commend one or more small stoves, according to circumstances, upon the 
principle exhibited in the annexed diagram. A house to be heated by 




one fire, may be fifty feet long, nine feet high at the back, and ten 
feet wide, having the flue extending along the front and ends. The 
plants to be placed on a stage, which, to lessen the capacity t» 
be heated, should be solid underneath: the flue in front, although 
shown with dark hues around it, is to be understood as standing clear on 
all sides, and having over it at the distance of ten or twelve inches a 
trellis, on which plants are to be set, and such should be chosen for this 
situation as require a slight bottom heat, and also require to be placed 
nearer to the hght and air. For private amateurs, or where only a limited 
collection of tropical plants is to be cultivated, such a house would give 
every satisfaction. 

PROPAGATIOX AXD TREATMENT OF TROPICAL PLANTS WHILE YOUNG. 

In the propagation of Tropical plants all the known modes are occa- 
sionally adopted, but those by cuttings and seeds are the most successful, 
and, therefore, the most general. 

\Miere Tropical plants are cultivated to any extent, or where a stove or 



286 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



Tropical coiiservaton', as above illustrated, is to be supplied, it will be 
found next to impossible to obtain the necessary- supply without a separate 
structure for their propagation. A pit, therefore, of the description re- 
commended for the growth of Scitamineae, or Reedy plants, should be 
erected in the reser^-e flower-garden, or in the melon or forcing-ground, 
in which not only a supply of young plants will be brought forward, but 
also those that are sickly brought into health again, and fitted for their 
proper places. Such pits being filled with tan, or leaves, and the heat 
kept up by the application of linings, will be a very good place for raising 
Tropical seeds, or propagating the plants from cuttings. 



SEEDS. 

Few Tropical plants ripen their seeds in our stoves ; our supply, there- 
fore, depends upon importations from the various countries of which they 
are natives. The best season for sowing the seeds is undoubtedly in the 
spring ; but as these seeds may arrive in autimin, or even during ^vinter, 
it is better to sow them as soon as they are received, because they of 
course have been long gathered, and they are also Uable to be very much 
injured by their transition from warm to cold latitudes : indeed, some 
sorts have been found to be incapable of the change. 

A statement has been made by a Danish botanist of credit, that of 
eighteen hundred sorts sent' from Denmark to Calcutta, fourteen hundred 
vegetated in a few days after sowing, whereas those sent to Europe 
from Calcutta almost all perished. ^lany propositions have been made 
for overcoming this difficulty : packing in charcoal, in closely corked 
bottles, in sugar, imbedding the seeds in various gums and other mucila- 
ginous matters, have all been tried, but not with any very satisfactory 
result. " After much experience it has been found that seeds packed 
loosely in coarse canvass bags, and hung to the ceiling of the cabin of a 
ship, where they are exposed to light and air, and protected from damp, 
wiU retain their vegetative powers much better than when enveloped in 
wax or tallow, or mixed with sugar or charcoal. No material will pre- 
serve seeds so long as coarse brown paper, made from old tarred rope, in 
which a large quantity of tar is incorporated. Caitridge paper affords 
seeds no protection whatever. SmTounding seeds with moist earth rammed 
very hard %vill also prevent germination, and at the same time retain the 
vital principle. In general, the most difficult seeds to preser%-e are those 
wliich contain much oil ; bat there are many exceptions in the case of 



SEEDS. 



287 



the seeds of the Brassica family, mustard, and other cruciferous plants.'^ 
—Ency, of Gard. 

As the temperature of this pit must be kept up from sixty degrees to 
seventy degrees and upwards, it matters not, so far as heat is concerned, 
at what season the seed be sown : it is the want of sun-heat and Hght 
that operates against them while just coming into a state of vegetation, 
for want of which they are very apt to damp or die off just as they get 
above the ground. Seeds that arrive from September till December had 
better be kept unsown, unless it be such as are of large size, or hard 
shelled, and which requii'e to lie a long time in the ground before germina- 
tion takes place : these latter may be sown as soon as they are received. 

The soil in which Tropical seeds soonest vegetate, is that called vege- 
table mould of decayed leaves, and a small portion of hght, sandy loam. 
They should be sown in pots of the size called thirty-twos, and these 
must be well drained, the surface of the mould in them made very smooth 
and firm, upon which the smallest seeds are to be sown, and covered to 
about the depth of the diameter of their respective sizes. ^Mien sown, the 
pots should be plunged to the brim in the bed of the pit, providing the 
heat be not too strong, in which case it will be well to half plunge them 
first, and afterwards to theu' full depth. A slight watering should be 
given them when sown, but this ^111 not be often necessary, particularly 
during winter, as the steam arising from the bed and linings will be 
abundant, and by condensing upon the under surface of the glass will 
fall back on the mould in the shape of dew. Their whole treatment during 
winter is to regulate the temperatui'e by renewing the linings, for the 
bed must not be disturbed till spring, and to guard against an extra degree 
of damp and impurity of air from want of sufficient ventilation. 

Seeds as they arrive are to be sown m the same manner. In spring, 
when the weather becomes mild, a regulation of the seed-bed may take 
place by removing the seed-pots into another pit or hot-house for a day to 
allow of the bed being turned, and fresh tan or leaves added ; and when 
that is completed, the pots in which the seedhngs are not yet advanced to a 
state fit for transplanting should be replunged again. Such as are fit for 
transplanting should be carefully taken out and placed in small pots of 
the size of small or large sixties, as the case may be. These should be 
again plunged into the bed, either in the division set apart for seed-pots, 
or in that in which cuttings are placed. Here they should remain till 
they have taken %vith the mould, and can stand the smi without shading. 
It is necessar^^ that this kind of pit be di\ided into two or three 
compartments ; one, for example, for seed-pots, one for cuttings, and one 



288 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



for the young plants, whether from seeds or cuttings, when they are 
potted off. Tills is necessary, because the latter require to have more air 
admitted to them as well as light. There is no difficulty in dividing such 
a pit at pleasure, because having a boarded partition made to sliift from 
one place to another is all that is required. Thus one or two hghts may 
nclosed for one purpose, and one or more for another. 
Many thick and hard-skinned seeds do not vegetate freely ; in such 
cases it is necessary to steep them in moderately warm water for a few 
days before they are sown, and to keep them at the same time in a warm 
place. Mi*. Otto, the director of the Berhn Botanic Gardens, in a com- 
munication to the Prussian Gardening Society, recommends steeping old 
seeds, or such as there may be doubts of their vegetating, for twenty-four 
or forty- eight hours, in a bottle containing oxalic acid, at the end of which 
period germination vdll have commenced, which when observed the seeds 
are to be carefully taken out and sown in the usual manner. He also 
recommends wetting a woollen cloth with the same acid, on which the 
seeds will germinate ; and also, by watering the mould in which seeds from 
twenty to forty years old have been sown, with a weak solution of it, he 
has succeeded in getting up plants, whilst the same sorts sown in the usual 
manner did not grow at all. 

M. Bosse, in the work last quoted, states that the germination of seeds 
is accelerated by steeping them in malic acid, and observes, that seeds 
covered with the pulp of rotten apples have been known to vegetate 
sooner than when treated in the ordinary course. 

Some have recommended milk, others diluted mmiatic acid, and many 
pare with a sharp knife the shell or skin of the seed, just round the point 
tlu'ough which the embryo shoot is to issue : all or any of these means 
may be used, but in either case they should be sovni as soon as any sign 
of sweUing or growth appears. 

If the sowing takes place in spring, which, as we have already observed, 
is the best time, many of the seeds t^tQ germinate in five or six weeks' 
time, but the larger and hardier sorts may remain for twelve months or 
longer before any sign of vegetation appears. We notice this, as it not 
unfrequently happens that seed-pots are emptied and thrown away just 
as the process of germination is commencing. 

CUTTINGS. 

The majority of Tropical exoiics that are fm*nished with branches are 
capable of being propagated by cuttings, which should be taken otf in 



CUTTINGS. 



289 



spring, or during summer, wlien the operation is to be accomplished upon 
young wood, which always strikes soonest. The best wood for this pur- 
pose is the young, firm, fully-formed tips of the lateral branches, but 
these must have attained their full groT\1;h, as well as the leaves upon 
them, and be made and planted in the cutting-pit if possible before they 
begin to flag, or their leaves droop. Some cultivators place much im- 
portance on the part of the plant from which the cutting is to be taken. 
Some prefer the tips of the lateral shoots, as above, and think that they 
produce plants more apt to become free-flowerers, although of less robust 
habits : others prefer the young upright shoots, taken off early in spring, 
and think that they make the most handsome plants. ^Ye think either 
may be taken with equal success as to the state of the future plant. The 
lateral shoots can in general be better spared from the original plant 
Tsithout disfigm-ing it, and may in all cases be obtained in greater 
numbers. 

The late Gushing, who had most extensive practice in these matters, 
has these remarks : — " The cuttings of many plants, if taken from the 
lateral shoots, never become proper erect stems, but are incHned at all 
times to form an irregular, bushy, weak head : this is not of small import- 
ance to such collectors as cultivate plants merely for the flowers, as such 
heads generally produce them sooner than luxuriant leaders. The lovers 
of handsome, erect plants, however, choose their cuttings from the upright 
shoots, early in the season, before they acquire that luxuriance of growth 
so unfit for the purpose of propagation. The tops of the shoots are to be 
preferred, unless they happen to flag before being used." 

In preparing them for planting, much care is required, and a very old 
and too general error guarded against, namely, taking off all or shortening 
most of the leaves, than which nothing is more hurtful and injurious, par- 
ticularly to evergreens, and such most tropical plants may be considered, 
as few of them, comparatively, shed their foUage. This is rationally ac- 
counted for in the following way : the inherent sap of the cutting being 
deprived of their leaves, which are the organs of respiration, and having 
no roots to produce new ones, the sap consequently becomes stagnated 
in the pores of the wood, which is somewhat similar to the stagnation of 
blood in animals, and will produce mortification, and finally death. Too 
many cuttings, unless of the most succulent sorts, should not be taken 
off at once, and these should be planted as soon as made, and during the 
process they should be kept as much from the air as possible. 

In preparing cuttings, it should be borne in mind that the power of pro- 
ti-uchng roots rests almost entirely in those parts of the branch or stem 



290 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



called joints, or where tlie leaves and buds are already formed. Cuttings, 
therefore, ought in all cases, excepting in such as the willow, or some 
few other free-growing shrubs, to be cut transversely across, close under a 
joint or eye ; and this must be done in a careful manner, for every cut 
produces a fractured or bruised section, so that in separating the cutting 
from the parent the former ought, of the two, to be the fractured part, 
and it is to rectify this fracture that we recommend the careful cutting 
transversely across of that part intended to become the new plant, wliich 
if unattended to would rather be disposed to rot and decay than to 
throw out roots, or form those granular callosities which in many plants 
form first, and from which roots are certain to issue. 

The proper time for taking off cuttings of evergreen plants, — and most 
tropical plants may be so considered, — is vrhen the sap is in motion - 
in order that by its returning by the ]>ark, it may form a ring of granular 
matter, from which roots will protrude ; and the point of separation in 
removing the cutting should be just where the shoot of the present sea- 
son's growth commences, taking a thin slice of that of last yearns gi'owth 
attached to it ; or if at a more advanced period of the season, and in the 
case of plants which make two growths in the year, taking a small por- 
tion of the wood of the first growth, which tnUI have attained a pretty 
firm consistency, and in general be of a brownish or darkish colour. 

AU soft-wooded plants not having too much pith will root freely if so 
taken off. But there are others which are commonly denominated hard- 
wooded, that root under all circumstances vrith difficulty, "With such 
plants it has been proposed to remove a ring of the bark previously, and 
where this operation has taken place, a callus will be formed ; and if then 
separated from the parent and inserted in the ground, roots ^vill be 
produced. Some hard-wooded plants take a year or upwards to strike 
root, and some would perhaps never root at all if kept planted in mould 
in the centre of the pot, even if of the kind most favourable for the plant, 
but will root if set in sand, or in mould so close to the side of the pot 
that the cutting may touch the side of it all its length ; and some if so 
placed that theu' ends may rest on the bottom of the pot, or on pieces of 
broken potsherd, placed on pm'pose. In these latter cases a brisk bottom 
heat is essentially necessary. Some soft-wooded plants will root freely 
in bottles of water, and it would be exceedingly interesting to ascertain 
to what extent this practice could be canied. 

The management of cuttings after they ai-e planted depends on the 
general principle, that where hfe is feeble all excess of exterior agency 
must have a tendency to render it extinct. No cutting requires to be 



CrTTIXGS. 



291 



planted deep, though large ones ought to be inserted deeper than small. 
In the case of evergreens, the leaves ought to be kept from touching the 
soil, or they will damp or rot off: and in the case of tubular- stalked 
plants, which are in general not veiy easily struck, owing to the water 
lodging in the tube, and rotting the cutting, both ends may in some cases 
be advantageously inserted in the soil, as, besides a greater certainty- of 
success, there is a chance that two plants may be produced. Too much 
light, air, water, heat, or cold are alike injurious. To guard against these 
extremes in tender sorts, the best means hitherto demised, is that of 
inclosing an atmosphere over the cuttings by means of a hand or bell- 
glass, according to their dehcacy. This preserves a uniform stillness and 
moisture of atmosphere. Immersing the pot in earth has a tendency to 
preserve a steady, uniform degree of moisture at their roots, and shading 
prevents the bad effects of too much light. The only method of regu- 
lating the heat is by double or single coverings of glass or mats, or both, 
A hand-glass placed over a bell-glass will preserve a very constant degree 
of heat. What that degree of heat ought to be is generally decided by 
that requisite for the mother plant. ^Miatever degree of heat is natural 
to the mother plant when in a growing state will in general be most 
favourable to the growth of cuttings.^' — Ency. Gard, 

Cuttings of stove plants may be planted at almost any season, but of 
course the dark months of winter ai'e the least favourable, and the spring 
and early summer months the most so, as the plants are at those periods 
best fiu'iiished with young wood, which, as we have ah-eady stated, roots 
miich more freely than old. On the purity- of the soil, the late Gushing 
justly remarks, depends in a great measure the success of many of the 
tenderer kinds of cuttings, particulaiiy those that are obhged to be kept in 
a moist heat, as the soil is,, when contaminated with other compost, very 
liable in those situations to cause damp and rottenness by the particles of 
putref^-ing matter generally contained in mixed earths^ and the properties 
of which are put in motion by the appHcation of heat. As an exception 
to this rule may be adduced sand, which is of veiy great utiHty to mix 
with the loam, should it happen to be rather stiff' for the nature of the 
cutting ; but then the sand proper for tliis use is of so pm'e a natm-e in 
itself, that it is evident it cannot have the effect noticed above. 

Cuttings should be planted as soon after they are taken off as possible, 
and when planted receive a gentle watering, both to refresh them, and 
to form the sand or mould more closely round them for the exclusion of 
air. AYhen they have remained for a short time to allow the leaves to 
become pretty dry, the bell-glasses should be put over those that require 

u 2 



292 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



such a covering, and pressed pretty tight into the mould in the pot to 
exclude the atmospheric air, and prevent it from exhaling the juices of 
the plants, which is the use of such glasses. The cutting being so cir- 
cumstanced, all its powers are forced downwards to produce roots, and 
these will soon prove their existence by producing young leaves and 
branches. 

In small collections, where few cuttings of any individual plants are 
requhed to be propagated, some discretion ought to be observed in 
selecting such as most nearly agree in habits to be placed in the same 
pot ; for if this be not attended to, a difficulty will arise in potting them 
off, as some kinds will root so much sooner than others, and the process 
of removing them may be attended "svith some chance of injury* to the 
others. 

The pots should be prepared by being well drained and filled with 
the mould most congenial to the genus or species, to within a distance of 
the top about equal to or rather more than the length the cutting is to be 
inserted. This upper strata is to be filled up with clean sand, and when 
well watered and pressed tightly down the cuttings are to be planted. 
This operation requires care, and the dibble or planting-stick should not 
be sharp -pointed, for if such a one be used, the cuttings which may be of 
greater diameter than the point of the stick would not rest upon its 
lx>ttom, but would be suspended, as it were, by the middle bv the pressure 
of the sides of the hole against it, while it is necessary to insure success 
that the cutting rest upon its base on the bottom of the hole made for it. 
^Tien the cuttings are planted in the pot, they should then be, for the 
most pait, covered with a bell-glass pressed shghtly into the sand, so as 
to exclude the air. They should then be removed to the pit above 
described, and either set on the surface of the bed, or plunged into it, as 
the temperature may be. Many plants strike best when placed in the 
pit "^\ithout bell-glasses over them, but of this it would be impossible 
to form any estimate without enumerating them by name. It may be 
taken for granted that most soft-wooded free-growing plants will root by 
this means, while only the hai'd-wooded and smaller-leaved plants require 
covering. 

Regularity in watering, shading, and wiping the inside, not only of the 
bell-glasses, bur also the lights of the pit. must be attended to, and also 
that no excess of steam enter the pit from the Knings ; but against this 
our pit has some provision. If the cutrings be left too dry, the bark 
shrivels up, and the fohage drops oif. for it should be remembered that 
tropical plants, with veiy few exceptions, prefer a humid, mild heat to strike 



CUTTINGS. 



293 



in, and are much less injured by damp than plants of any other descrip- 
tion. The most convenient shading for them is large sheets of coarse 
packing paper laid over the glasses within the frame, which is both 
easier done and more certain of remaining without being displaced than 
any covering apphed on the exterior of the pit, which is hable to be 
bloTMi off, and before such a disaster can be discovered the whole stock 
of cuttings may be destroyed by the sun. 

One great advantage which shading with paper within the frame has 
over any kind of shading laid over the exterior is, that while the cuttings 
are effectually shaded by the paper, the sun's rays are not prevented from 
entering into the pit to dry up damp and prevent an impure atmosphere 
from being formed, which would be the case if covered "^ith mats, as is 
too often erroneously practised. 

Many of these plants strike root very soon after planting : thus the 
first set of rooted plants fit for transplanting into separate small pots may 
be expected in about a fortnight or three weeks, another set in a month cr 
five weeks, and so on, wliile some will remain unrooted for nine months 
or a twelvemonth. The cuttings ^vill in general show the progress of the 
roots by beginning to grow ; when this is observed, air should be gra- 
dually admitted to them, so that by the time they are fit for potting they 
may stand, -without fiagging, the heat of the sun. Shading should be 
taken off every evening, and as the plants appear to root it should be by 
degrees reduced till dispensed with entirely. 

^yhen the cuttings have rooted sufficiently to insure their safe removal 
to separate pots, they should be taken very carefully out of the mould or 
sand in which they have been hitherto growing, and as the preservation 
of the roots is the principal object to be attended to, it will be well to 
turn out the contents of the pot carefully on the potting table, so that the 
roots may be singled out and separated from the mould without breaking 
or bruising any of them. This is perfectly practicable in regard to the 
larger growing sorts, but the smaller kinds will require to be taken out 
in small patches upon the point of a knife or thin piece of wood, ^^^l€n 
they are separated from the sand or mould in which they have been 
struck, they sliould then be as speedily as possible planted into thumbs, 
or small or large sixties, as their size and condition demand. The 
mould now to be used is that in which the plant is found to succeed best 
in when full grown ; but in regard to the smaller and more deHcate ones, 
a soil somewhat lighter, and the mould reduced to a finer consistency, 
will be advisable. 

^Vhen potted off they should be gently watered, and then placed in 



294 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



the pit on the surface of the bed, and covered with hand-glasses for a 
few days till they have taken fresh root in the new soil ; these glasses 
must be progressively removed as the plants get established. It will 
be necessary also to shade them during the first few days ; but this 
shading, like the removal of the glasses, must be progressively dis- 
pensed with. 

Their whole culture now depends on the regularity of the supply of 
air, heat, light, and water, and as they extend in gro's\i;h, frequent shift- 
ings, until they are of a state to take their place in the stove. 

Grafting and inarching are sometimes, but rarely, practised on stove 
plants, and some species difficult to strike by cuttings are increased by 
laying. 

Some sorts of stove plants, such as Jacqumia arhorea^ are propagated 
from the leaves, which should in the case of this plant be stripped off 
and planted round the edge of a pot, filled with sandy leaf-mould, being 
previously well drained : in six or eight months they will send up a st€m 
which will form the futnre plant. In like manner the genera Gloxinia^ 
Gesneria, &c., will from leaves planted in a similar way form tubers from 
the base of the leaf-stalk, which ^\\\\ the season following send up a 
shoot and make good plants. This mode of reproduction is frequently 
had recourse to in the case of succulent plants, such as Gasteria, Aloe^ 
&c., particularly of those kinds which neither send np suckers nor divide 
into branches ; and many species of plants produce small leaves on their 
flower-stems, which, as in the case of Echeveria gibhiflora^ E. grandifolia^ 
&c., if laid on the surface of the mould produce plants. But the most 
curious mode of reproduction we think is that stated by Professor 
Thouin, that certain flowers and fruits have this property, and as an 
instance of the former we may state that of the corollas of the Arv.m 
appendiculatum producing plants in the garden of the Taurida Palace, at 
St. Petersburgh. 



LAYING TROPICAL PLANTS. 

Lading, as a means of multiplying tender exotics, is mnch less practised 
in this country now than formerly, when the art of striking by cuttings 
was but little understood. It is, however, stiU very uniyersally practised 
on the continent, w^here the former and more expeditious mode is less cor- 
rectly known. In propagating by this means some preliminary arrange- 
ments are necessarj^, because in the cases of tall plants it would be next to 
impossible to bring their branches down to be laid in a pot of mould upoB 



LAYING. 



295 



the stage or platform. To obviate this difficulty, our inventive neighbours 
have constantly by them small conical-shaped tin vessels, sometimes sht 
on one side to allow the shoot to be operated on, and at other times 
having a hole in the bottom part, up which the shoot is made to pass. 
These vessels are suspended in some part of the tree itself, or, if more 
convenient, in some neighbouring tree, so that the shoot can be brought 
to it without danger of breaking. The vessel being filled ^ith the proper 
mould, the branch is laid into it, sometimes having been previously ringed, 
tongued, sht through the middle, and having a small slip of slate or 
other thin material let into the opening to prevent the wound from heal- 
ing over, pierced with an awl, or having a notch or thin paring of the 
bark taken off at that part to be covered with the mould. These modes 
have all their respective advantages. The mould in the vessel is kept of 
a proper degree of humidity by enveloping it in moss kept moderately 
moist. ^Yith us, earthenware pots have been manufactured, having a 
slit down one side, and are used much as described above. When the 
subject to ])e operated upon is of flexible habit and near the ground, 
the laying is more conveniently carried into effect by simply placing pots 
of mould round the parent plant, and lajdng the branches in them in the 
usual manner. 

In laying,'^ Gushing observes, " choice should b^ made of the young 
tender shoots of the present year : the soft bark of which will sooner 
form a callosity and produce roots than that of the preceding year's growth. 
It is particularly necessary to observe whether the plant intended to be 
laid is of a brittle nature or not, for if it is, it will be necessary that the 
shoots be pegged gently down to the surface previous to laying, and thus 
left until the tops naturally acquire a perpendicular direction, which they 
will do in a few days ; without this precaution it would be extremely 
difficult to cut or tongue them without cracking or breaking them off ; 
but if treated in this manner the most brittle may be laid without danger. 
It is a conclusion drawn from several experiments, that the layer which is 
inserted to a proper depth roots sooner and better than that which is 
laid near the surface : the reason of which is, at a certain depth the air 
is better excluded, and there is a more regular degree of moisture for the 
nourishment of the young fibres when they are protruded. No part of 
the shoots should upon any pretence be covered with the mould, except 
that which is meant to produce roots, as covering the whole renders it 
extremely liable to rot>" 



296 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



IXARCHING TROPICAL PLANTS. 

There are some sorts of tropical plants, particularly those that are 
hard-Tvooded, that are difficult to increase by other means than by seeds, 
which are often not easy to procure. Recourse then is had to this mode 
of propagation, which is sufficiently simple in itself, but requires some 
nicety in the performance. The first consideration in regard to inarching 
stove plants is to make choice of proper stocks, and these must always be 
some of the coarser and free-growing species of the same genus, or one 
nearly related to it, as for example, the common myrtle for the more 
delicate sort of Myrtus and Pimenta, a genus nearly separated from the 
former, but sufficiently akin to unite by this process ; the Mezereon and 
Spurge Laurel for the more delicate species of Daphnej the Magnolia 
obovata for the more tender of its family, and the Olea europea or 
Ligustmm vulgare var. sempirvirenSj for the tropical species of ohves, &c. 
Having selected the proper kind of stock, which should be as nearly of 
equal diameter to the scion or branch to be united to it as possible, cut a 
thin slip about two or three inches long and about one-third of the diame- 
ter in thickness of both the stock and the branch to be united to it, and 
from off the smoothest part of the stem of each. These two cuts must be 
made as nearly alike as possible, so as to admit of the bark of each being 
brought together so as to fit exactly, at least on one side, and be fastened 
together firmly by tying them round mth fresh matting. This being 
done, the joint is to be covered \\\X\\ well-prepared clay, grafting wax, or 
fine moss, but in such a manner as perfectly to exclude the air. In eight 
or ten weeks a union will have taken place ; at all events about that time 
they may be partially separated from the parent plant by cutting the 
inai'ched shoots better than half way through : if they are united, they will 
bear the operation without flagging their leaves, and in that case may in 
the course of a few days more be separated entirely, and be placed in a 
shady part of the stove, or in the propagating pit, where they will soon 
make good plants. After three or four weeks the matting may be untied 
and the top of the stock cut off in a neat manner, applying a httle clay to 
the wound to prevent the air or moisture from acting too powerfully 
upon it. 

GENERAL TREATMENT OF TROPICAL PLANTS DURING AUTUMN AND 
WINTER. 

By the beginning of September the nights begin to get cold, and often 
wet ; it is then time to prepare the stoves, that is, both the Dry and also 



GENERAL TREATMENT IN AUTUMN AND WINTER. 297 

tlie Moist Stove, for their winter's treatment. In regard to both, ventilation 
must be gradually lessened, shutting up early in the afternoon, and thereby 
inclosing as much air heated by the solar rays as will maintain the ne- 
cessary temperature till morning. This may be sufficient till the second 
or third week in the month, when slight fires may become necessary, but 
no positive data can be given on this head, as so much depends upon 
the state of the weather. The Dry Stove, if the bottom heat be obtained 
from fermentable matter, such as leaves, tan, &c., should now be regulated 
by removing a portion of that which has been in a state of fermentation 
since this time twelvemonth, and by supplying its place with fresh 
material, to keep up the necessary heat for another season. The flues 
should be cleared, all necessary repairs of glass, &c., executed, and the 
house thoroughly cleaned, so as to be in a fit state for the winter. In 
the Moist Stove the same measures of cleaning, repairing, &c., should be 
also completed. In both, the supply of water should be lessened, both at 
the roots and over the tops of the plants, particularly at the former, as 
plants plunged in any medium always require much less water than 
those that are exposed to the action of the atmosphere on all sides; sickly 
plants should also have much less of that element than those that are in 
perfect health. 

By the latter end of September, slight fires may be necessary, particu- 
larly in the Dry Stove ; in the other, the beginning of October will be soon 
enough. By recommending artificial heat so early, we must be understood 
to mean only in a very Hmited degree, for certainly the excess of this 
element, and more particularly during autumn and early winter, is pro- 
ductive of much mischief in most collections ; and a deficiency of it in 
February, March, and April, when it is most wanted, is also a fault 
generally fallen into. All plants, from whatever quarter of the globe they 
may come, experience a summer and a winter, or some atmospheric 
change equivalent thereto, during which their functions become torpid to 
a certain extent, and this may be safely termed their season of rest. In 
cultivation, something of the same kind should be imitated, and no period 
is so natural in our northern latitudes as those dark and cheerless months 
between November and the middle^ of February. It is contrary to reason 
and common sense to expect a plant to continue in a state of uninterrupted 
excitement, and it is also equally erroneous to force a plant, by dint of 
artificial heat, to grow during the darkest months we have. Our practice 
is to let tropical plants rest dming November, December, and January, 
and excite them gradually in February, March, and April. The success 
of this process vnll be obvious. Air should be admitted on all mild days, 



298 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



but cold and frosty air carefully excluded, for a very limited quantity is 
sufficient for tropical plants during their period of repose, and nearly 
that quantity will find its way into the house through the interstices of 
the glass and other small openings. The fires should be made in the Dr\' 
Stove so as to keep the thermometer at sixty or sixty-five degrees, the 
latter, if the collection contains many very rare plants. The temperature of 
the Humid Stove by fire heat may range from fifty-two to sixty or srxty- 
two degrees. This is a matter, although much insisted on by some, in our 
opinion of very little consequence, for where, let us ask, is there a spot 
under the sun whose temperature is uniform to within the range of two 
or three degrees ? Water, whether applied to the roots or over the 
branches, should, during ^^-inter, be rendered tepid before used, as it is 
equally unnatural and dangerous to apply cold water to plants in a high 
temperature, and produces consequences somewhat analogous to that of 
animals while excessively heated drinking or bathing in cold water, as 
has been elsewhere noticed. When the flues are sufficiently heated, and 
indeed they ought to be so for short periods occasionally, were it for no 
other purpose, a fine vapour or steam may be created by pouring water 
over them. Indeed, the regular steaming of a stove is one of the most 
important features in its management, and for this purpose it is necessar}^ 
to throw more heat into the house to create the steam than would be 
advisable under any other consideration. Steaming tlirough the winter 
is of less importance than in spring, of which notice will be taken. 

GENERAL TREATMENT OF TROPICAL PLANTS DURING SPRING AND 
SUMMER. 

Towards the latter end of February, the plants vnll be beginning to 
show symptoms of vegetation ; this must not be hurried on by the aid of 
fire heat, but the sun will have sufficient power in fine days to raise the 
temperature a few degrees. Advantage ought to be taken of such a cir- 
cumstance to admit a moderate quantity of fresh air, which ^vill be of 
much importance to the plants, and cause them to send their buds out in 
a vigorous manner, which all the heat that could be applied to them 
without the aid of air would not be able to accomplish, but the reverse, 
and would cause the buds to push weakly and the shoots small, and 
susceptible of disease and the attacks of insects. 

The temperature of the Dry Stove may be gradually raised, between 
the middle of February and the middle of April, from sixty to seventy 
degrees, and that of the Moist Stove in like manner, but four or five degrees 



GENERAL TREATMENT IX SPRING AND SVMMER. 



299 



less. Air must also be admitted in fine days in much greater quantities 
than during the preceding months, and the operation of steaming per- 
formed every evening during the T^^hole period, and continued as long as 
there is suflacient heat kept up by fire in the flues ; after ^vhich the 
steaming must be performed in the morning, by syringing the plants and 
walls of the house all over, and keeping it closely shut up till the sun 
raises the thermometer to eighty or ninety degrees, or higher, when air 
may then be admitted, to reduce it to its usual temperature. By following 
this process, those pests of all hothouses, the mealy bug and red spider, 
win be completely destroyed, neither of which can exist in a high humid 
temperature or atmosphere, but the reverse is the very medium that vdU 
bring them into existence in swarms. This circumstance, upon the first ap- 
plication of steam to hothouses, caused an erroneous notion to be attached 
to that mode of heating, namely, that by it insects were totally suppressed. 
No such thing is or can be the case where steam is employed, if kept 
confined in the pipes : it is by its escape from them that this desirable 
end is eifected ; and though it was only where the practice was followed 
of opening these pipes and allowing a portion of the steam to enter the 
house, that the insects were found to disappear, yet the whole merit was 
set down to the credit of this mode of heating. The same effect had 
been observed in houses in which the process of raising steam by pouring 
water on the flues had been followed ; but keeping the atmosphere of hot- 
houses damp, was at that time rarely thought of, and hence the indifferent 
success attending the cultivation of tropical plants and fruits when com- 
pared to that of the present day. The apphcation of water by a pretty- 
strong syringe upon the plants, answers also two very important ends, 
viz., the cleansing of them from dust and insects, and also acting as a 
substitute for wind, which, in respect to giving strength to plants, has been 
experimentally proved by the late Mr. T. A. Knight, and other vegetable 
physiologists, to be of much use, particularly to those placed in situations 
where this natural agent could not act upon them. 

The season for shifting tropical plants extends from the end of Feb- 
ruary to the end of April, at which period the plants begin to grow, and, 
consequently, to make fresh roots, which is the most proper time for 
performing this operation on all plants. This should not, however, l)e 
deferred later than the end of April, for by that time the plants will have 
grown considerably, and would thereby experience a great check if dis- 
turbed at their roots. 

Shifting or re-potting plants is a very necessary- branch of culture, for 
when we consider that the quantity of eaith contained in a flowerpot is 



300 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



SO small in comparison to the wants of the plant it has to support, ix is 
natural to suppose that it requires to be changed or augmented, and if 
this be not done in due time the plants must suffer for want of food. 
Besides, the mould around the roots becomes, from one cause or other, 
when left long undisturbed, sour and coagulated, and the plant becomes 
unable to draw its proper nourishment from it, and of course declines, 
and becomes either a nuisance in the collection or else perishes altogether. 

The operation of shifting differs not from that already laid down in 
respect to the various sections of greenhouse plants, and need not be 
repeated here. The soil should be richer and more turfy or porous than 
is used for other plants, the surface containing the grass or other vegetable 
matter growing on it : as the supply of water is greater, it v^ill find a 
more ready escape through it than if it were as compact and finely pul- 
verized as soils usually are. 

As the process of shifting goes on, a careful examination should take 
place for the detection of insects which may find shelter under the mat- 
ting with which they are tied, or in the cliffs of the branches and in the 
cracks of the bark : these places should be examined, and washed with a 
thick lather of soft-soap and sulphur ; not that there is much efficacy in 
either, but the friction will do its share, and the soap will cleanse the 
plants and soften the bark, while its adhesive property will retain a 
quantity of the sulphur upon the branches, which, igniting by the heat 
of the sun, will burn off mildew, and probably the red spider also, should 
either exist on them. The plants should be all neatly tied up as they 
may require it, that is, those of flexible habits ; but other plants if well 
grown will rarely require support, and certainly will look much better 
without a prop than with one. The wood-work of the house should be 
washed clean at this time, as should also be the inner surface of the glass, 
and every part of the building made neat and clean for the approaching 
summer. 

"Water, air, and judicious pruning are all that is required during sum- 
mer, unless it may happen that the greenhouse be emptied for two or 
three months during summer, when the hardiest of the stove plants may be 
set upon the stages of it, which will considerably thin the stove, much to 
the benefit of the plants. But we have elsewhere observed that it is not 
a practice to be recommended, at least where choice greenhouse plants are 
grown. Many of the more dwarf stove plants, however, may be accom- 
modated for three or four months during summer in a close frame or pit, 
where they will be quite as warm as if kept in the stove. 

Fire-heat should be gradually lessened from the beginning of April till 



GLORIOSA SUPERBA, 



301 



the middle or end of ^lay, when it may be almost dispensed with. It 
may also be considerably economised, and the plants thereby benefited, by 
shutting up the stoves early in the afternoon, so as to inclose as large a 
portion of solar heat within them as possible : this is a matter sadly 
overlooked by cultivators in general. 

In regard to insects, we have already observed, that by following up 
the system of steaming no bugs wiU exist, and as for scale, they wiU in 
most cases share a similar fate. The red spider and thrips can only exist 
in a dry atmosphere ; if they make their appearance in any hot-house, it 
is a clear proof that water has not been supplied in sufficient quantity. 
There are some cases when water for particular reasons may be withheld 
from'certain plants or parts of a stove : when such is the case, a hot plate 
of iron held under the part at a distance of two or three feet, and a 
little flower of brimstone sprinkled gently upon it, will soon destroy 
them. 

CULTURE OF CERTAIN FIXE-FLOWERIXG STOVE PLANTS THAT REQUIRE 
A MODE OF TREATMENT DIFFERENT FROM THE GENERALITY OF 
TROPICAL PLANTS, SlC, 

GLORIOSA SUPERBA. 

This splendid plant, as the name fully indicates, is of great beauty and 
singularity. It is, nevertheless, but rarely met with in collections, and 
much more rarely is it seen in flower, although few plants are more 
easily cultivated and flowered. The following directions by the late 
J. Sweet, of the Bristol nurseries, have been followed by us for several 
years, and with complete success: — "Its failure," he justly observes, 
" arises chiefly from the defective method in which the roots are preserved 
during their inaction, and from the want of proper treatment when they 
first vegetate in the spring. Injured at these periods, the plants generally 
continue through the summer weak and unpromising, throwing up only a 
few small stems, which do not flower in sufficient strength or beauty." 
The following is the essence of his judicious practice. In autumn^ when 
the stems have died down and left the root, which is a considerable 
sized tuber, perfectly ripe, it is removed in the pot and placed upon the 
top of the hot-house flue, at a safe distance from the fire, the intention 
being merely to keep the mould round the tuber perfectly dry ; one of the 
shelves on the back wall of the stove will answer as well. Here it is 
secured from the water which is used in sp'inging the house, by invert- 
ing another pot over it. If the tubers be small, several may be kept in 



302 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



the same pot during winter, having the mould made firm round them for 
the exchision of air : the same mould that they were grown in should he 
used for this pui-pose, for fresh earth or sand, he justly observes, would 
stimulate them to move early. About the second week in ^larch they 
should be potted, putting one or two, according to their size, into each 
pot, the pots to be six inches over. The soil most congenial to them is 
fresh loam, mixed with an equal quantity of peat earth, the loam to be 
not over- much enriched with dung, nor too heav)^ The roots are to be 
parted if fit for separation, but by no means if they do not part freely. 
They should be planted about two inches deep, and plunged into a bottom 
heat equal to ninety-five degrees. Water is sparingly appUed at first, 
but increased after the plants have, set a growing ; but this must never be 
applied in great quantities. If kept in a brisk heat, the shoots will ex- 
tend for six or eight feet, or more, and will require to be trained to a 
trellis, or under a rafter, when they ^*ill flower in great abundance and 
perfection. 



IXORA, 

a genus of East Indian plants of great beauty, the flowers of which are 
oflfered to Ixora, a Malabar idol, in consequence of their splendid appear- 
ance. Like the last, this is a genus, some of the species of which are 
met with in most collections of the tropical plants, while it is very 
rare to see one of them in flower. On the continent this is different, 
and we find the Ixora coccinea, in particular, cultivated for the pubUc 
markets. 

The culture of the genus is, that they require a period of rest, which con- 
tinues for four or five months, that is, from July till February, when they 
may be placed in the greenhouse amongst other plants, or in a pit where 
frost is completely excluded. In February they should be re-potted, and 
then plunged in a mild moist heat, or set on the surface of a bed of tan, 
leaves, or dung, in a close pit, and kept in a temperature of from sixty to 
seventy degrees of heat. In this pit and by tliis mode of treatment they 
will show fine heads of flowers by the beginning of April, and may then be 
removed to the plant stove to flower, where they will continue in great 
splendour for a long period. 



GLOXINIA, SINNINQIA,^ AND GESNERIA, 

are three genera of plants, half bulbous and half herbaceous. They reqviire, 
after flowering, to be kept moderately dry till their leaves and stalks die 



M : )l.S'l' S PLANTS 




QriSQrALIS, IPOilCEA, ETC. 



303 



down, or become ripened, when they should be set upon a shelf in the 
stOTe and kept dry till they show signs of yegetation, or until it may he 
desirable to bring them again into a state of active gi'owth. At that 
period they should he shifted and supplied with water, moderately at first, 
but as they extend in growth it should be augmented. They should be 
brought to the front of the house to flower, as they are, particulaiiy the 
two former genera, of dwarf habits, and would otherwise not be seen to 
advantage. Gloxinia and Gesneria may be increased by planting the 
footstalk with the leaf attached. The other is readily increased by 
cuttings, and also by the same means. 

ariSaUALIS and COMBRETrM. 

These are two splendid genera of climbing stove plants, requiring to 
be planted out in the borders of the house, or in large pots. The prin- 
cipal feature in their culture different from other plants which inhabit the 
stove is, that while in a deciduous state they should have all- the wood 
of the preceding season's growth cut into one, or at most to two eyes or 
buds. By this simple process they will flower abundantly : each shoot, 
for the most part, which springs, will be furnished with a spike of flowers 
at its termination. 

IPOMCEA. 

This is a genus of fine-flowering chmbing plants, ^vith large tuberous 
roots, and tender herbaceous stems. "When these die down the roots 
should be set upon the shelves, in a dry place, during winter ; in spring 
they may be taken down and repotted, and placed in a close pit for a 
week or ten days, when they will have begun to vegetate, at which time 
they should be brought into the stove and placed near a pillar, rafter, 
or similar support, to which the shoot should be trained, 

RHEXIA AND MELASTOMA, 

Two numerous and fine-flowering famihes. During winter they re- 
quire httle water, but not to the extent to render them enrirely torpid. 
These, together with many other half-herbaceous plants, should be placed 
at one end or comer of the stove, that some attention naay be paid to 
them in this respect. 

The following judicious remarks on the winter management of tropical 



304 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



plants, by the author of the botanical article in the " Weekly Chronicle " 
for November 26th, is so excellent as to meet with our cordial approba- 
tion, and is, in our opinion, the best directions in the fewest words we 
have met with, and corresponds with our own practice : — 

" There are two distinct states in the existence of every plant ; one, of 
quietude and repose, the other, of developement and display. The plants 
which are cultivated in hothouses are chiefly the natives of tropical 
climates ; and an idea has prevailed with many that they require a steady 
undiminished h-eat of from sixty to seventy degrees of Fahrenheit's ther- 
mometer. If it be supposed that these high degrees of temperature exist 
at all seasons in the hot countries, a great mistake is committed ; for even 
in the torrid zone, within a few degrees north and south of the line, severe 
cold is frequently experienced; and in the hilly districts, unequivocal 
evidence of actual frost is sometimes afforded. Yet the pine-apple, a 
plant which flourishes with prodigious luxuriance in the pestilential, 
vapourous atmosphere of Batavia, and in the close woods of Western 
Africa, bearing the utmost extremes of heat, will nevertheless sustain 
a degree of cold below that of the mean temperature of our climates 
in Februar}', without manifest injury. Beauty, perpetual verdure, and 
floral developements cannot be forced. Plants will not grow at all 
seasons. 

" Repose and sleep are required by all created things ; and he who en- 
deavours to keep up by heat — during darkness, gloom, and frost — those 
effects of vital action which depend upon Hght and solar influence, must 
eflfect his object at the expense of those stores of supply which have been 
accumulated for the production of the fresh organs and developements in 
the ensuing spring. Hothouse plants revel in a moist atmosphere and 
great heat during the advanced spring and summer months ; but they 
seek rest and freedom from offensive damp, during winter : the autumn 
prepares them for this torpid condition. We must, therefore, gradually 
desist at this season fi-om raising steam ; indeed, any degree of moisture 
beyond that which is yielded by the surface soil of the pots is unnecessary. 
From the commencement of October to the second week in March, let 
the air be kept dry, water being given in the smallest quantity which will 
sustain life, and no bad consequences need be apprehended from the cold 
of the nights. Fi'ost must, at the same time, be guarded against ; and a 
decline of the mercury should not be suffered below forty-eight degrees ; 
but it is mere waste of health, time, and fuel, to aim at high temperatures, 
when all they could effect would be to ' draw ' the plants, without 
supplying them with any vigour of constitution. The experienced 



WINTER MANAGEMENT. 



305 



gardener is aware of these facts, and the ahove obsen^ations may 
appear trite and uncalled for. AYe do not, however, address the prac- 
tical man, but those persons of refined taste, who ai'e desirous to 
secure all the advantages which a mode of artificial culture under glass 
may present ; and to those genuine lovers of plants we submit the fore- 
going remarks." 




X 



306 



SELECT LIST OF MOIST OR HUMID STOVE PLANTS. 



WHITE. 



Larg-est Hedycliium. ( HedycMum 
maximum.) Flowers in August, in 
sandy loam. Division of the root. 

Slender Hedycliium. ( Hedychium 
gracUe.) Flowers in June and July, 
in sandy loam. Division of the 
root. 

Broad-leaved Galangale. {Kcempferia 
lafifoUa. ) Flowers in April and 
June, in sandy loam. Division of 
the root. 

Galanga. ( Kcempferia galanga. ) 
Flowers from June to Septembel", 
in sandy loam. Division of the 
root. 

Upright Globba. ( Globba erecfa. ) 

Flowers from June to July, in sandy 

loam. Division of the root. 
^^Hiite Lxora. {Ixora alba.) Flowers 

from June to August, in peaty loam. 

Cuttings. 

Indian Pavetta. ( Pavetfa ijidica. ) 
Flowers from Au^st to October, in 
peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Cingalese Leadwort. (Plumbago zeij- 
lanica.) Flowers from April to Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Suckers. 

Sr^'eet-scented Brugmansia. ( Brug- 
mansia suaveolens.) Flowers from 
August to September, in loamy peat. 
Cuttings. 

White- stalked Brugmansia. ( Bmg- 
mansia Candida.) Flowers from Au- 

gust to September^ in loamy peat, 
uttings. 

Jussiajus'sTheophrasta. {Theoplirastu 
Jussicei.) Flow^ers in June and July, 
in rich mould. Seeds. 

Long - leaved Theophrasta. ( Theo- 
pJirasta longifolia.) Flowers in June 
and July, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Bracelet Jacquinia. ( Jacquinia ar- 
millaris.) Flowers in June and July, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Dotted ArdLsia. {Ardisia punctata.) 



Flowers in June and August, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Racemose Nightshade, {^olanum race- 
mosum.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in common mould. Cuttings. 

Netted Nightshade. {Solamun reticu- 
latum.) "Flowers in June and July, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

American Rondoletia. Rondoletia 
americana.) Flowers m August, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Panicled Rondoletia. ( Rondoletia 
paniculata.) Flowers from June to 
August, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Great - flowered Portlandia. ( Port- 
landia grandijlora.) Flowers from 
June to August, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Rooting Gardenia. {Gardenia radi- 
cans^ Flowers from March to June, 
in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Sweet-scented Aralia. ( Aralia fra- 
grant.) Flowers in June and July, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Broad-leaved Commersonia. ( Com- 
mersonia platypliylla.) Flowers in 
June and July, in loamy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Rough Richardsonia. {RicJiardsonia 
scabra.) Flowers in September, in 
loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Pubescent Seaside Grape. {Coccoloba 
pubescens.) Flowers from June to 
September, in rich mould. Cut- 
tings. 

True Cinnamon. (Cinnamomtcm ve- 
rum.) Flowers from June to Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Crista Brasilletto. ( Ccesalpitiia 
Crista.) Flowers from June to Au- 
gust, in peaty loam. Seeds. 

Sweet Prosopis. ( Prosopis dulcis. ) 
Flowers in June and July, in sandy 
peat. Seeds. 



SELECT LIST OF MOIST STOVE PLANTS. 



One-leaved Atalantia. {A.talantia mo- 
nophylla. ) Flowers from June to 
August, in ricli mould. Cuttings. 

Dotted Wampa Tree. (CooMa punc- 
tata.) Flowers in July and August, 
in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Octandrous Melastoma. {Melastoma 
octandra.. ) Flowers from July to 
September, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Xiphium-like Tillandsia. {Tillandsia 
Xij^Moides.) Flowers in July and 
August, in sandy peat. Suckers. 

Terminal Dracaena. ( Dracaena ter- 
minalls.) Flowers in June and July, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Iron Dracaena. ( Draccena ferrea. ) 
Flowers in March and April, in peaty 
loam. Division of the roots. 

Long-flowered Hillia. {Hillia longi- 
flova.) Flowers in February and 
March, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Woolly Sophora. {Sophora tomentosa.) 
Flowers from August to October, in 
peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Divaricate Mountain Ebony. {Ban- 
hinia divaricata.) Flowers in June 
and September, in loamy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Lamark's Mountain Ebony. {BauMnia 
Lamarkiana.) Flow^ers from June 
to September, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Superb Bead Tree. (Melia superha.) 
Flowers from June to August, in 
loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Exotic Murraya. {Murraya exotica.) 
Flowers from August to September, 
in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Panicled Murraya. {Murraya panicu- 
lata.) Flowers in July and August, 
in rich mould. Cuttings. 

White-leaved Chitonia. (CMtonia al- 
bicans.) Flowers in July and Sep- 
tember, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

P>Tamidal Chitonia. {CMtonia pyra- 
midalis.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

WTiite-flowered Jamaica Rose. {Meri- 
ana leucantha.) Flowers from June 
to August, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

White Canella. {Canella alba.) Flow- 
ers in April and May, in rich loam. 
Cuttings. 

Pinnate Swartzi a. {Swartzia pimata.) 
Flowers in June and July, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 



Halbert-leaved Clerodendrum. {Cle- 
rodendriim hastatum.) Flowers in 
June and July, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

One-flowered Franciscea. {Franciscea 
uniflora. ) Flowers from June to 
August, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Plane-leaved Begonia. {Begonia pla- 
tanifolia.) Flowers in July and iVu- 
gust, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Blood-red Begonia. ( Begonia san- 
guinea.) Flowers in May and June, 
in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Single - winged Begonia. ( Begonia 
monoptera.) Flowers in June and 
July, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Dr. Fisher's Begonia. ( Begonia 
Fislierii. ) Flowers in IVIay and 
June, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Changeable Hibiscus. {Hibiscus mn- 
tabilis.) Flowers from October to 
December, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Most Fragrant Galipea. ( Galipea 
odoratissima.) Flowers from May 
to July, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Various - coloured Aciotis. ( Aciotis 
discolor.) Flowers from July to Sep- 
tember, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Three-nerved Blakea. ( Blaltea tri- 
nerva.) Flowers in June and July, 
in sandy peat. Layers. 

Spiny Caper Tree. {Capparis sjjinosa.) 
Flowers from May to August, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Cork - barked Gautteria. {Gautteria 
suberosa.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Cunningham's Eurycles. ( Eurycles 
Cunning hamii.) Flowers in March 
and April, in sandy loam. Oftsets. 

Bovde's Randia. {Randia Boicieana.) 
Flowers in July and August, in loamy 
peat. Cuttings. 

Large-flowered Elaeocarpus. ( Elceo- 
ccupus grandiflorus. ) Flowers in 
June and July, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Heller's Sinningia. {Siniiingia Hel- 
leri.) Flowers in Jane and July, in 
peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Sweet Lippia. {Lijypia dulcis.) FIoav- 
ers from June to September, in 
peaty loam. Division of the plant. 

August Gustavia. {Gustavia augusta.) 
Flowers in July and August, in rich 
mould. Cuttings. 



YELLOW. 



Yellow Arrow Root. {Maranta lutea.) 
Flowers from June to August, 
in sandy loam. Division of the 
root. 



Garland Kedychium. ( Hedychium 
coronarium.) Flowers from June to 
September, in peaty loam. Division 
of the root. 

X 2 



308 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



Yellow Hedychium. ( Hedychium 
fiavum.) Flowers from June to Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Division of the 
roots. 

Yellow - tufted Justicia. ( Justicia 
fiavicoma.) Flowers from July to 
September, in peaty loam. Cut- 
ting's. 

North's Marica. {Marica Northiana.) 
Flowers from April to Aug-ust, in 
sandy peat. Division of the plant. 

Yellow'lxora. {Iiora flava.) Flowers 
from June to September, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 

Large-bellied Hamellia. ( Hamellia 
veyitricosa.) Flowers from Septem- 
ber to November, in peaty loam. 
Cuttings. 

Sweet-scented Hamellia. ( Hamellia 
odorata.) Flowers from August to 
September, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Elegant Turnera. {Tiirnera elegans.) 

Flowers from April to September, in 

sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Rock Turnera. {Turnera rupestris.) 

Flowers from June to September, in 

sandy peat. Seeds. 
Unarmed Mountain Ebony. (Bauhinia 

Uiermis.) Flowers from June to 

August, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Tall Flower Fence. {Poinciana etata.) 

Flov.ers in June and July, in rich 

mould. Seeds. 
Faiiicled Brasiletto. ( C(esalpi?ila 

panicidata.) Flowers from July to 

September, in peaty loam. Seeds. 
Sappan Brasiletto. {C^esalpi/ua ^Sap- 

pan.) Flowers from June to August, 

in loamy peat. Cuttinsfs. 
Flavescent Caiathea. ( Calatliea flave- 

scens.) Flowers in July and August, 

in sandy loam. Division of the 

plant. 

Lofty Ginger. ( Zingiber eJatum. ) 

Flowers from July to September, in 

sandy loam. Division of the root. 
Pendulous Globba. {Glohha pendula.) 

Flowers from June to Septenibe 

sandy loam. Division of the plant. 
Racemose Globba. {Globba racemosa.) 

Flowers in June and July, in sandy 

ioam. Division of the root. 
American Buddlea. {Buddlea ameri- 

cana.) Flowers in August, in loamy 

peat. Cuttings. 
Cathartic AUamanda. ( AUamanda 

cathartica.) Flowers in June and 

July, in rich mould. Cuttings. 
Flowery Gardenia. {Gardenia florida.) 

Flowers from July to October, in 

loamy peat. Cuttings. 
Queen's Strelitzia. {StreUfziaregiiKje.) 

Flowers from April to June, in peaty 

loam. Suckers. 



August Strelitzia. (Sfrelifzia angusta. 

Flowers from May to July, in peaty 

loam. Suckers. 
Sulphur - flowered Pitcainiia. ( Pit- 

cairnia sulphurea.) Flowers from 

June to August, in sandy peat. 

Suckers. 

Show>' Cassia. ( Cassia speciosa, ) 
Flowers in June and July, in loamy 
peat. Cuttings. 

Bundle - flowered Cassia. ( Cassia 
floribunda.) Flowers from July to 
September, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Twiggs^ Cassia. ( Cassia viminea. ) 
Flowers in July and August, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 

Sickle-leaved Hoflmanseggia. {Hoff- 
manseggia faJcaria. ) Flowers in 
July and August, in sandy loam. 
Cuttings. 

Campechy Log^^ood. {H<Ema1oxylon 
Campechianinn.) Flowers in June 
and July, in rich mould. Seeds. 

Smooth-leaved Button-flower. {Gom- 
phia Icevigata.) Flowers in July and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Ceylon Button-flower. {Gomphia zey- 
lanica.) Flowers from June to Au- 
g-ust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Olive Bark Tree. {Bucida Buceras.) 
Flowers from August to October, in 
loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Broad-leaved Bassia. {Bassia lati- 
^olia.) Flowers from May to July, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Tall Brownlowia. {Broicnlowia elata.) 
Flowers from May to July, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 

Blunted Ochna. ( Ochna obtusata. ) 
Flowers from July to August, in 
loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Large - flowered Swartzia. {Stcarfzia 
grandiflora.) Flowers in June and 
July, ill peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Velvety Sinningia. ( Sinningia vehi- 
fina.) Flowers from May' to July, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Fair Crotalaria. {Crofalaria pulchra.) 
Flowers from March to May, in peatj' 
loam. Seeds. 

Pendulous Crotalaria. ( Crofalaria 
pendula.) Flowers from July to Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Lotus-leaved Crotalaria. {Crotalaria 
lotifoUa.) Flowers from June to 
August, in common mould. Seeds. 

Falcate Adenanthera. {Ad en ant Ji era 
falcata.) Flowers from May to Au- 
gTist, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Spike - bearing ' Prosopis. ( Prosopis 
spicigera.) Flowers from July to 
September, in rich mould. Seeds. 

Pinnate Hardwickia. ( HardwicMa 
pinnata.) Flowers from Jmie to Au- 
gust, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 




ji 



SELECT LIST OF MOIST STOVE PLAXTS. 



309 



Silvery Bunchosia. ( Bunchosia ar- 

gentea. ) Flowers from March to 

May, in peaty loam. Cutting's. 
Smooth Olibanmn Tree. {BoswelUa 

glabra.) Flowers from May to July, 

in loamy peat. Cutting's. 
Silky Banister ia. {Banistena sericea.) 

Flowers from June to August, in 

loamy peat. Cuttings. 
Pilose Triumfetta. {Triumfetta pilosa.) 

Flowers from June to August, in 

loamy peat. Cuttings. 
Large-flowered Triumfetta. (Trmm- 

fetta grandijlora. ) Flowers from 

June to August, in loamy peat. 

Cuttings. 

Yellow Grevia. {Greviaflava.) Flowers 
from July to September, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings, 

Hairy Corchorus. (Corchorus Mrtus.) 
Flowers from June to August, in 
peaty loam. Seeds. 

Sho^T - flowered Dillenia. ( Dillenia 
speciosa.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

American Binmsfelsia. {Brunsfelsia 
americana.) Flowers in June and 
July, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Neat Besleria. (Besleria pidcJiella.) 
Flowers in July and August, in loamy 
peat. Cuttings. 



Large - leaved Besleria. ( Besleria 
grandijlora.) Flowers from July to 
September, in loamy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Erect Stylosanthes. ( Stylosan-fJies 
erecta.)' Flowers from July to Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Mucronate Stylosanthes. {Stylosan- 
thes mucronaia.) Flowers in July 
and August, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Broad-leaved Cotton. {Gossypium lati- 
folium.) Flowers from July to Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Cavanilles Lobelia. {Lobelia Cava- 
nillesiana.) Flowers from June to 
August, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Prickly - seeded Pavonia. ( Pavonia 
spin 'ife.x.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Five-lobed Hibiscus. {Hibiscus quin- 
quefolius.) Flowers in June" and 
July, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Sweet-scented Magnolia. {Magnolia 
odoratissima.) Flowers from July 
to September, in peaty loam. Grafts. 

Shining Lam^el. {Lau'rus splendens.) 
Flowers in July and August, in loamy 
peat. Cuttings. 



PURPLE. 



Long - br acted Calathea. ( CalatJiea 
longibracteata. ) Flowers in July 
and August, in sandy loam. Divi- 
sion of the roots. 

Dancing Girls. {Mantisia saltatoria.) 
Flowers from June to August, in 
sandy loam. Division of the root. 

Captain Sabine's Marica. ( Manca 
Sabini. ) Flowers in August, in 
peaty loam. Division of the roots. 

Decurfent Lobelia. ( Lobelia decur- 
rens.) Flowers from June to Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Peach-leaved Lobelia. {Lobelia persi- 
cifolia.) Flowers in June and July, 
in sandy peat. Division of the plant. 

Glaucous Sophora. {SopJiora glauca.) 
Flowers from August to September, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Purple Mountain Ebony. {Bauhinia • 
purpurea.) J'lowers from June to 
September, m loam. Cuttings. 

Long-fiMiited ^elastoma. {Melasto- 
ma macrocarp'a. ) Flowers from 
June to August, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Elegant Galangale. {Kcempferia ele- 
gans.) Flowers from July to Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam. Di^ision of 
the plant. 

Showy Justicia. {Just id a speciosa.) 



Flowers in August and September, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Beautiful Justicia. {Justicia venusta.) 
Flowers from September to October, 
in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Pubescent Nightshade. ( Solanum 
pubescens.) "Flowers from June to 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Clustered Nightshade. {Solanum aggre- 
gatum.) Flowers in June and July, 
"in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Purple Barbacenia. {Bcirbacenia pur- 
purea.) Flowers from July to Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam. Division of 
the root. 

Malabar Spider Wort. {Tradescantia 
malabarica.) Flowers from July to 
September, in rich mould. Suckers. 

Crowded Charlwoodia. {Charhvoodia 
congesta.) Flowers from March to 
May, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Fothergill's Chitonia. ( Chitonia 
Fothergillii.) Flowers in July and 
August, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Heteromallous Pleroma. ( Pkroma 
heteromalla.) Flowers from June to 
September, in loamy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Purple Anotta. ( Bixa purpurea. ) 
Flowers from June to August, in 
sandy peat. Seeds. 



310 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



Parple Lantana. {Lantana purpurea,) 

Flowers from June to September, iu 

peaty loam. Cutting's. 
Uprig-ht Lantana. {Lantana erecta.) 

Flowers from June to Augnst, in 

peaty loam. Cuttino:s. 
Purple Lippia. ( Lippia purpurea. ) 

Flowers in June and July, in peaty 

loam. Cutting's. 
?vlany-cleft Urena. {Urena multifida.) 

Flowers from January to October, 

in peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Slender Cliaetogastra. ( Cli<£togastra 

gracilis.) Flowers in June and July, 

in peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Purple Jamaica Rose. (Meriana pur- 
purea.) Flowers in June and July, 

in peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Decandrous Cupliea. ( CujjJiea de- 

candra. ) Flowers from June to 

October, in peaty loam. Cutting's. 



Slender Cuphea. {Cupliea gracilis.) 
Flowers in July and Aug-ust, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Shows* Gloxinia. {Gloxinia speciosa.) 
Flowers from June to August, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Caulescent Gloxinia. {Gloxinia caule- 
scens.) Flowers from July to Sep- 
tember, in peaty loam. Division of 
the plant. 

Asiatic Torenia. {Torenia asiafica.) 
Flowers from July to September, in 
sandy loam. Seeds. 

Diffuse' Torenia. ( Torenia diffusa.) 
Flowers from July to September, in 
sandy loam. Seeds. 

Silver-l'eaved Indig-o. {Indigo/era ar- 
gentea.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 



Scarlet Hedycliium. {Hedycnlum coc- 
cineurn.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Division of 
the plant. 

Shining Ixora. {Lvora fulgens.) Flow- 
ers from June to August, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 

Strict Ixora. {Lvora stricta.) Flowers 
in July and August, in peaty loam. 
Cuttings. 

Scai'let Justicia. {^Tusiicia cocci nea.) 
Flowers from March to ]May, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 

Scarlet ]Manetta. {Manetfa coccinea.) 
Flowers from ]May to July, in loamy 
peat. Cuttings. 

Scarlet Portlandia. {Porflaudia coc- 
cinea.) Flowers from June to Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Curassoa Swallow - wort. {Asclejiias 
curassaviea.) Flowers from June to 
September, in rich mould. Seeds. 

Plaited Molineria. {MoUneria plicata.) 
Flowers in August, in peaty loam. 
Division of the plant. 

Bulbous Gesneria. {Gesneria hulbosa.) 
Flowers in ]May and June, in peaty 
loam. Division of the root. 

Corymbose Gesneria. ( Gesneria 
corymhosa.) Flowers from June to 
August, in peaty loaln. Cuttings. 

Scaled Clerodendrum. {Clerodendrum 
squamafum.) Flowers from June to 
September, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 



Scarlet Brownea. {Brownea coccinea.) 
Flowers from July to August, in 
rich loam. Cuttings. 

Broad - leaved Brownea. ( Brownea 
lafifolia.) Flowers from June to 
August,' in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Show>- Barringtonia. ( Barringtonia 
speciosa.) "Flowers from April to 
June, in rich mould. Seeds. 

Broad-leaved Pitcairnia. {Pifcairnia 
latifolia.) Flowers from August to 
September, in sandy peat. Suckers. 

Iris-flowered Pitcairnia. {Pitcairnia 
iridiflora.) Flowers from June to 
August, in rich mould. Suckers. 

Scarlet Jamaica Rose. {Meriana coc- 
cinea.) Flowers in June and July, 
in peaty loam. Cutting;s. 

Long-flowered Grissomeria. {Grisso- 
meria longiflora.) Flowers in July 
and August, in loamy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Scarlet Lantana. {Lantana coccinea ) 
Flowers from June to September, in 
peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Scarlet Trevirana. ( Trevirana coc- 
cinea. ) Flowers from August to 
September, in loamy peat. I)ivision 
of the root. 

Scarlet Pavonia. {Pavonia coccinea.) 
Flowers in July and August, in 
sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Soft 3Ialvaviscus . OLalvaviscus mollis.) 
Flowers from August to September, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 



Zebra Plant. { Calathea zehrina.) ! V8.mQ\Q^k.v6i^i2L. {Ardisia pajiiculata.) 
Flowers in June, in sandy peat. Flowers in July and August, in 
Division of the root. " 1 sandy loam. Cuttings. 



SELECT LIST OF MOIST STOVE PLAXTS. 



311 



Simple Spathelia. {Spathelia simplex.) 

Flowers in Jiily and Augfust, in sandy 

peat. Seeds. 
Downy Grislea. {Grislea tomentosa.) 

Flowers in May and June, in sandy 

peat. Cntting-s. 
Elongated Justicia. {Justicia elongata.) 

Flowers from May to July, in peaty 

loam. Cutting's. 
Rosy LeadwortT ( Plumbago rosea.) 

Fibwers from 3Iarcli to July, in rich 

mould. Suckers. 
Rosy Periwinkle. ( Vinca rosea. ) 

Fibwers from March to October, in 

rich mould. Cutting-s. 
Stem-flowerins: C^Tiometra. ( Cyno- 

metra cauliflora.) Flowers in June 

and July, in sandy loam and peat. 

Cutting's. 

Fair Flower-fence. ( Poinciana pul- 
cherrima.) Flowers from June to 
September, in rich mould. Cutting's . 

Siliquose Corchoms. {Corchorus sili- 
quosus.) Flowers from June to Au- 
gust, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Brilliant Gesneria. {Gesneria rutila.) 
Flowers from August to September, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Many-flowered Russelia. ( Russelia 
milltiflora.) Flowers from June to 
August, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Bundle-flowered Russelia. ( Russelia 



floribunda.) Flowers from June to 
August, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Rush - leaved Russelia. ( Russelia 
juncea.) Flowers from April to Juno, 
in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Mahogany Tree. (Sicietenia m<i- 
hogani.) Flowers from Jime to Au- 
gust, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Shining Bunchosia. ( Bunchosia ni- 
tida^ Flowers in July and August, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Bilimbi Tree. ( AverrJioa hilimbi. ) 
Flowers from August to September, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Queen's Lagerstrcemia. ~^ {Lagerstroi- 
mia regince.) Flowers from August 
to October, in sandy loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Large-flowered Lagerstroemia. {La- 
gerstroemia grandiflora. ) Flowers 
from June to August, in sandy loam. 
Cuttings, 

Netted Urena. {Vrena reurAdata.) 
Flowers in July and August, in peaty 
loam. Seeds. ' 

Fragrant Pavonia. {Pavonia odorata.) 
Flowers in June and July, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings. 

Chinese Rose Hibiscus. ( Hibiscus 
Rosa sinensis.) Flowers from July 
to September, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 



Flesh-colom*ed Hedychium. ( Hedy- 
cliium carneum.) Flowers from June 
to August, in sandy loam. Division 
of the root. 

Bracted Bromelia. {Bromelia brac- 
teata.) Flowers in September and 
October, in rich mould. Suckers. 

Changing Rhexia. ( Rhexia versi- 
color. ) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Bloody Melastoma. {Melastoma san- 
guinea.) Flowers in September and 
October, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Panicled Justicia. {Justicia panicu- 
lata.) Flowers from July to Sep- 
tember, in peaty loam. Seeds. 



Hairy Rondeletia. (Rondelefia hirta.) 
Flowers from June to August, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Fair Ti'llandsia. {Tillandsia pulckra.) 
Flowers from November to January, 
in rich mould. Suckers. 

Aloe-leaved Tillandsia. ( Tillandsi^fi 
aloefolia.) Flowers from November 
to December, in sandy peat. Suck- 
ers. 

Incarnate Begonia. {Begonia irtcar- 
nafa.) Flowers from August to Oc- 
tober, in peaty loam. Oftsets. 

Wallich's Astrapeea. {Astrapcea Wal- 
lichii.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 



BLUE. 



Oral Galangale. {Kcempferia ovali- 
folia.) Flowers in July, in sandy 
loam. Division of the root. 

Margined Galangale. ( Kcempferia 
marginata.) Flowers in April and 
May, in sandy loam. Division of 
the root. 

Pretty Eranthemum. {Eranthemum 



pulchellum.) Flowers from June to 
September, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Showy Spider Wort. {Tradescantki 
speciosa.) Rowers in July and Au- 
gust, in rich mould. Division of the 
plant. 



312 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



Slender Dicliorizandra. ( Dichori- 

zandra gracilis.) Flowers from June 

to August, in rich mould. Division 

of the plant. 
Mimose-leaved Jacaranda. {Jacaranda 

mimosifoUa.) Flowers in April and 

jMay, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Painted Ruellia. ( Ruellia picta. ) 

Flowers from April to August, in 

peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Elegant Ruellia. ( Ruellia elegans. ) 

Flowers from June to August, in 

peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Expelling Justicia. {Justicia Ecbolium.) 

Flowers from March to August, in 

peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Lovely Justicia. (Justicia amahilis.) 



Flowers in June and July, in loamy 
peat. Cuttings. 

Strict Tillandsia. (Tillandsia stricta.) 
Flowers in June and July, in sandy 
peat. Suckers. 

Slender-leaved Tillandsia. {Tillandsia 
tenuifolia. ) Flowers in June and 
July, in sandy peat. Suckers. 

Hairy Gloxinia. ( Gloxijiia Mrsnfa.) 
Flowers from June to August, in 
sandy peat. Division of the plant. 

INIany-flowered Erisma. {Erisma flori- 
bimda.) Flowers from September to 
November, in common loam. Cut- 
ting's. 

Dancing Girls. {Mantisia spathulata.) 
Flowers in June and July, in sandy 
loam. Division of the root. 



Painted Justicia. ( Justicia picta. ) 
Flowers in June and July, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 



Cuba Red Wood. {Ceanothus cuben- 
sis.) Flowers in July and August, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings, 



FLESH-COLOURED. 



Flesh - coloured Justicia. ( Justicia 
carnea.) Flowers from August to 
September, in loamy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Rosy Ixora. {Ixora rosea.) Flowers 
from June to August, in peaty loam. 
Cuttings. 

Bandhooka Ixora. {Ixora BandhooTia.) 
Flowers in July, in peaty loam . Cut- 
tings. 



Flesh-coloured Ixora. {Ixm-a iiicar- 
nata.) Flowers from August to Sep- 
tember, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Heracleum-leaved Begonia. {Begonia 
heracleifoUa.) Flowers from March 
to August, in rich mould. Division 
of the plant. 

Remarkable Begonia. ( Begonia in- 
signis.) Flowers from December to 
February, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 



GREEN. 



Tliree - coloured Guzmania. ( Guz- 
mania tricolor. ) Flowers in May 
and June, in rich mould. Suckers. 

Cerambola Tree. {Averrhoa caram- 
hola.) Flowers from August to Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 



Cassia Cinnamon. ( Ciimamoinum 
Cassia.) Flowers from May to Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Camphor Tree. {Cinnamomum Cam- 
phora. ) Flowers from March to 
June, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 



Madagascar Buddlea. {Buddlea ma- 
dag ascariensis.) Flowers from June 
to August, in loamy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Oraaige - flow^ered Jacquinia. ( Jac- 
quinia aurantiacea.) Flowers from 
April to September, in peaty loam. 
Cuttings. 

Horrid Coulteria. {Coiilteria hornda.) 
Flowers from June to August, in 
peaty loam. Seeds. 



GE. 

Great-flowered Ixora. {Ixora gi^ndi- 
flora.) Flowers from June to Sep- 
tember, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Saffron-coloured Ixora. {Ixora ero- 
cata.) Flowers from August to Oc- 
tober, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Wave - leaved Crossandi-a. ( Cros- 
Sandra undulcefolia. ) Flowers in 
June and July, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 



SELECT LIST OF TROPICAL CLIMBING PLANTS. 



313 



VIOLET. 



Long-flowered Nightshade. {Solanum 
longiflorum. ) Flowers from June 
to August, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Mexican Nightshade. {Solanum mexi- 



canum.) Flowers in June and July, 
in peaty loam . Cuttings. 
Violet-coioured Brunsfelsia. (Bruns- 
felsia violacea.) Flowers in July and 
August, in rich mould. Cuttings. 



VARIEGATED. 

Douglass's Gesneria. {Gesneria Dou- j Spotted Sinningia. {Sinningia gut- 
glassii.) Flowers from September to tata.) Flowers from May to July, 
October, in peaty loam. Cuttings. I in peaty loam. Cuttings. 



SELECT LIST OF TROPICAL CLIMBING PLANTS. 



Narrow-leaved Jasmine, ( Jasminum 
angustifolium.) Flowers most of the 
year, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Zambac Jasmine. {Jasminum Sambac.) 
Flowers half the year, in rich mould. 
Cuttings. 

Climbing Jasmine. {Jasminum scan- 
dens.) Flowers in July, in common 
mould. Cuttings. 

Three -nerved Jasmine. {Jasminum 
trinerve.) Flowers in June and July, 
in loam and peat. Cuttings- 
Flexible Jasmine. {Jasminum flexile.) 
Flowers in April and May, in rich 
mould. Cuttings. 

Climbing Flax. ( Plax scandens, ) 
Flowers nearly all the year, in loam 
and peat. Cuttings. 

Climbing Leadwort. {Plumbago scan- 
dens.) Flowers in July and August, 
in sandy peat. Suckers. 

West Indian Leadwort. ( Plumbago 
occidentalis.) Flowers in April, in 
loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Great - flowered Ipomoea. ( Ipomcea 
^randiflora.) Flowers in September, 
m sandy loam. Suckers. 

Smooth Bindweed. ( Convolvulus 
glaher.) Flowers in May and June, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 



Guiana Bindweed. {Convolvulus guia^ 
nensis.) Flowers in June and August, 
in common mould. Cuttings. 

Twining Porana, {Porana volubilis.) 
Flowers in July and August, in peat 
and loam. Suckers. 

Panicled Dinetus. { Dine f us panicu- 
lata.) Flowers fi'om August to Sep- 
tember, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Large-flowered Beaumontia. {Beau- 
montia grandiflora. ) Flowers in 
July, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Twin-flowered Echites. {EcMtes bi- 
flora.) Flowers in July, in peat and 
loam. Cuttings. 

Long-flowered Echites. {EcMtes longi- 
flora.) Flowers from ^lay to August, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Trelhs Vallaris. ( Vallaris pergulanus.) 
Flowers most of the year, in peat and 
loam. Cuttings. 

Shining Solandra. {Solandra nitida.) 
Flowers all the year, in loamy peat. 
Cuttings. 

Nodding Stafl" Tree. ( Celastrus 
nutans.) Flowers nearly all the year, 
in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

CUmbing Melodinus. ( Melodinus 
scandens.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 



314 THE MOI 

Monog-ynous Melodinus. {Melodinus 

monogynus.) Flowers in July and 

Au»-uVt, in rich mould. Ciittinii-s. 
Emetic Secamone. {Hecamone emctlca.) 

Flowers in June and July, in sandy 

peat and loam. Cutting's. 
Globose Sacrolobus. {liacrolobus glo- 

bosus.) Plowers in June and July, 

in peat and loam. Cuttino^s. 
Twig-gy Asparagus. {Asparagus sar- 

mentosus.) Flowers in August, in 

rich mould. Division of the root. 
Decandrous Combretum. {Comhretum 

decandrum.) Flowers in July, in rich 

mould. Cuttings. 
Racemose Combretum. ( Combretum 

racemosum.) Flowers in July and 

August, in rich mould. Cuttings. 
Sinuate - leaved Seriana. ( ^Scriana 

sinuata.) Flowers in July and Au- 

^st, in common mould. Cuttings. 
Rusty Urvillaea. ( Urvillcea ferru- 

ginea.) Flowers from May to July, 

m sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Larg-e-flowered Cardiospermum. {Car- 

diospermum grandljlorum.) Flowers 

in July and August, in sandy loam. 

Cuttings. 

Climbing Mountain Ebony. ( Bau- 
hinia scandens.) Flowers from May 
to July, in light loam. Cuttings. 

Showy Mountain Ebony. ( Bauhinia 
speciosa. ) Flowers from June to 
July, in light loam. Cuttings. 

Qustered Gaertnera. {Gcertnera race- 
mosa.) Flowers in INIarch and April, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Obtuse-leaved Gaertnera. ( Gtertnera 
obtusifoUa.) Flowers in April and 
May, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Frag-rant Richiea. (Richiea fragraiis.) 



ST STOVE. 



Flowers in June and July, in rich 
mould. Cuttings. 

Caripe Virgin's Bower. ( Clematis 
caripensis.) Flowers from June to 
August, in peat and loam. Lavers. 

Fragrant Thunbergia. ( Thun'bergla 
fragrans.) Flowers most of the year, 
in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

INvining Clerodendrum. ( Cleroden- 
drum volub'de.) Flowers from June 
to July, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Eatable Passion - flower. ( Passijtora 
eduUs.) Flowers in July and August, 
in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Hairy Passion - flower. ( Pass'iflora 
hirsuta.) Flowers in September and 
October, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Racemose Nissolia. ( Nissolia race- 
mosa.) Flowers from June to Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Cochinchinese Mieranthus. (Mieran- 
thiis cochinchinensis.) Flowers from 
June to Aug^t, in common mould. 
Suckers. 

Net-leaved Rhynchosia. {RhyiicJwsia 
reticulata.) Flowers from July to 
September, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Jacquin's Dolichos. ( Dolichos Jac- 

^uifiii.) Flowers in July and August, 

in sandy loam. Cuttings. 
V^Tiite-flowered Cylista. {Cylista albi- 

Jlora.) Flowers in April and May, in 

peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Twining Dalbergia. {Dalbergia volu- 

bilis.) Flowers in May and June, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Sweet-scented Mikania. ( Mikania 

suaveolens.) Flowers in August, in 

common mould. Cuttings. 



Obcordate Hypocratea. {Hypocratea 
obcordata.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Obtuse - leaved Hypocratea. ( Hypo- 
cratea obtusifoUa.) Flowers in June 
and July, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Climbing Tonsella. ( Tonsella scan- 
dens.) Flowers in August, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings. 

Climbing Messerschmidia. {Messer- 
schmidia scandens.) Flowers in July 
and August, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Wave-leaved Cynanchum. ( Cynan- 
chum undatum.) Flowers in July 
and August, in loamy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Sharp-pointed Cynanchum. (Cynan- 
chum mucronatum.) Flowers in July 



and August, in loamy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Green-flowered Cynanchum. {Cynan- 
chum viridifloriim.) Flowers in Oc- 
tober, in loamy peat. Cutting's. 

SmaU-flowered Metastelma. { Meta- 
stelma parviflorum.) Flowers in July 
and August, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Wood Gymnema. {Gymnema sylvestre.) 

Flowers in July and August, in loamy 

peat. Cuttings. 
Keeled Sarcolobus. ( Sarcolohus ca- 

rinatus.) Flowers in June and July, 

in peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Sea-shore Gonolobus. ( Gonolobus 

maritimus.) Flow^ers in June and 

July, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 



SELECT LIST OF TROPICAL CLIMBIXG PLANTS. 



315 



Cork-barked Gonolobus. ( Gonolohm 

suberosus.) Flowers in July and An- 

giist, in peaty loam. Cutting's. 
Large-flowered Gonolobus. {Gonolobus 

grandiflorus.) Flowers in July and 

Au^st, in peaty loam. Cutting's. 
Bmetic Diplolepis". {Diplolepls vomi- 

toria.) Flowers in June and July, in 

peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Ovate Diplolepis. {Diploleins ovata.) 

Flowers in June and July, in peaty 

loam. Cuttings. 
Sweet-scented Pergularia. (Pergularia 

odoratis&ima.) Flowers in June and 

July, in rich mould. Cuttings. 
Bloody Pergularia. {Pergularia san- 

guinolenta.) Flowers in July and 

August, in ricb mould. Cuttings. 
Dioecious Virgin's Bower. {Clematis 

dioica.) Flowers in May and Jmie, in 

sandy peat. Layers. 
Tvdning Tragia. ' ( Tragia volubilis.) 

Flowers in June and July, in common 

mould. Cuttings. 
Pedunculed Tragia. {Tragia pedunm- 

la.ta.) Flowers in June and July, in 

common mould. Cuttings. 
CUmJoing PhyUantbus. (Phyllanthus 

scandens. ) Flowers from' July to 



September, in sandy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Climbing Dalecliampia. {Daleclianipia 
scandens.) Flowers in June and July, 
in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Twinino- Flunkenetia. Plunkenetia 
volubilis.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Lobed-leaved ^lodecca. {Modecca lo- 
hata.) Flowers in August, in rich 
mould. Cuttings. 

Long-leaved Smilax. {Smilax longi- 
folia.) Flowers in May and June, in 
peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Cordate-leaved Raj ania. {Rajania car- 
data.) Flovv ers in July, in peaty loam. 
Division of the root. ' 

Villous Cocculus. ( Cocculu-s villosus.) 
Flowers from May to June, in loamy 
peat. Division of the root. 

Distilling Chinese Pitcher Plant. {Xe- 
pentlies distill at or ia.) Flowers from 
April to May, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Heart -leaved Gouania. {Gouania cordi- 
folia.) Flowers from May to July, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

St. Domingo Gouania. {Gouania do- 
mingensis.) Flowers from May to 
July, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 



YELLOW. 



Yellow Bindweed. {Convolvulus ochra- 
ceus.) Flowers in July and August, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Suberect Echites. {Eckites suberecta.) 
Flowers from June to August, in 
peats- loam. Cuttings. 

Red-stemmed Echites. {Echites rubri- 
caulis.) Flowers from July to Au- 
gust, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Pved - veined Haemadict\-on. {Hcema- 
dictyon venosum. ) Flowers in July 
and August, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Great-flowered Solandra. {Solandra 
grandiflora.) Flowers from March to 
JNIay, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Esculent Oxystelma. {Oxystelma escu- 
lentum.) Flowers in May and June, 
in sandy loam. Division of the 
root. 

Tinging G^Tnnema. {Gymnema tingens.) 
Flowers in July, in peaty loam." Cut- 
tings. 

Most tenacious Gymnema. {Gymne- 
ma tenacissimum. ) Flowers in July 
and August, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Scandent Brasiletto. ( Ccesalpinia 
scandens.) Flowers in July and Au- 
^ gust, in peaty loam. Seeds. 
SmningBanisteria. {Banisteria splen- 



dens.) Flowers in July and August, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Shining-fruited Banisteria. {Banisteria 
fulgens.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Golden-leaved Heteropteiis. ^( Hete- 
rojyteris clirysopliylla. ) Flowers in 
June and July, in rich mould. Cut- 
tings. 

Jamaica Triopteris. ( Triopteris ja- 
maicencis. ) Flowers in May and 
Jmie, in peaty loam. Cuttings, 

Reclined Hirvaea. {Hirvaa recUnata.) 
Flowers in June and July, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings. 

Twining Tetracera. {Tetracera volu- 
bilis.) Flowers in June and July, in 
peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Large-flowered Virgin^s Bower. {Cle- 
matis grandiflora.) Flowers in May 
and June, in peaty loam. Layers. 

Ceylon Xaravelia. ' ( Xaravelia zey- 
lanica.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy peat. Layers. 

Large-leaved Trumpet-flower. ( jB?"- 
gnonia grandifolia, ) Flowers from 
April to June, in peaty loajn. Cut- 
tings. 

"Winged Thunbergia. ( Thunbergiu 
alata.) Flowers from May to Sep- 
tember, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 



316 



THE MOIST STOVE. 



Hooked Spathodea. ( Spathodea un- 
cata.) Flowers in September and 
October, in sandy peat. Cutting-s. 

Violet - berried Besleria. ( Besleria 
violacea.) Flowers in July andAu- 
l^st, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Climbing- Pterocarpus.~ {Pterocarpus 
scandens. ) Flowers in June and 
July, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

St. Vincent's Chaetocalyx. {Chcetocalyx 
Vincentina.) Flowers from May to 
August, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Caribaean Rhynchosia. ( Rhynchosia 
caribcea.) Flowers from September 
to October, in peaty loam. Cut- 
ting's. 

Clammy Fagelia. {Fagelia hituminosa.) 

Flowers from April to September, in 

loamy peat. Cutting-s. 
Yellow-flowered Doli<:lios. (Dolichos 

luteus.) Flowers in July and August, 

in sandy loam. Seeds. 
Soft Dioclea. (Dioclea fnolUs.) Flowers 



in July and August, in sandy loam. 
Division of the plant. 

Pedate Anouria. ( Anguria pedatcu ) 
Flowers in June and July, in loamy 
peat. Division of the root. 

Shady Angaria. {Anguria umbrosa.) 
Flowers in June and July, in loamy 
peat. Division of the root. 

Dioecious Momordica. ( Momordica 
dioica.) Flowers in July and Augnst, 
in common mould. Seeds. 

Tube-flowered Momordica. (Momor- 
dica tubijlora.) Flowers in July and 
August, in common mould. Seeds. 

Racemose Tiliacora. (Tiliacora race- 
mosa.) Flowers in June and July, in 
rich mould. Division of the root. 

Pitcher-leaved Pitcher-plant. {Nepen- 
thes phyllamphora.) Flowers in June 
and August, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Calinea Dohocarpus. ( Doliocarpus 
Calinea.) Flowers in June and July, 
in loamy peat. Cuttings. 



Scandent Jonesia. {Jonesia scandens.) 

Flowers in April and May, in peaty 

loam. Cuttings. 
Mealy Combretum. ( Combretum fa- 

rinosum.) Flo^\'^8rs from April to July, 

in rich mould. Cuttings. 
Indian Quisqualis. {Quisqualis indica.) 

Flowers from May to August, in 

loamy peat. Cuttings. 



Pubescent Quisqualis. (Qidsqiialis pu- 
bescens.) Flowers from May to Au- 
gust, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Lovely Trumpet - flower. (Bignonia 
venu^ta.) Flowers in September and 
October, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Jasmine-leaved Trumpet-flower. (Bi- 
gnonia jas?ni?iifolia.) Flowers in June 
and July, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 



Showy Ipomcea. (Ipomoea speciosa,) 
Flowers in July and August, in peaty 
loam. Seeds. 

Long - flowered Ipomoea. ( Ipomoea 
longiflora.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in peaty loam. Division of the 
root. 

PanicledAmphilobium. (AmpMlobium 
paniculatum,) Flowers in June and 
July, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Comose Combretum. (Combretum co- 
mosum.) Flowers from June to De- 
cember, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Bundle-flowered Trumpet-flower. (Bi- 
gnonia floribunda.) Flowers in April 
and June, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Twisting Petrea. (Petrea volubilis.) 
Flowers in July and August, in rich 
mould. Cuttings. 

Obtuse-leaved Canavalia. (Canavalia 
obtusifolia.) Flowers in July and 
August, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Pi'ayer Wild Liquorice. (Abrus preca- 
torius.) Flowers from IMarch to May, 
in sandy peat. Seeds. 

Long-leaved Sweetia. (Siveetia longi- 



folia.) Flowers in July and August, 
in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Woody Sweetia. ( Sweetia lignosa. ) 
Flowers in July and August, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. 

Ovate Amphodus. (Amphodus ovatus.) 
Flowers in July and August, in sandy 
peat. Cuttings. 

Purple Lablab. (Lablab purpurem.) 
Flowers from August to September, 
in sandy loam. Seeds. 

Angled Pachyrhizus. ( PachyrMzus 
angidatm.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Three-lobed Biithwort. (AristolocMa 
lobata.) Flowers in June and July, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Sweet-scented Birthwort. (Aristolo- 
lochia odoratissima.) Flowers in July 
and August, in peaty loam . Cuttings . 

African JoUifia. ( Jollifia africana. ) 
Flowers in July and August, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 

Elegant Ceropegia. (Ceropegia ele- 
gans.) Flowers in August and Sep- 
tember, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 



SELECT LIST OF TROPICAL CLIMBING PLANTS. 



317 



Cut-leaved Ipomoea. {Ipomcea dissecta.) 
Flowers in June and July, in sandy 
peat. Cutting's. 

Purple Combretum. ( Combretum 
purpureum. ) Flowers from June 
to December, in ricli mould. Cut- 
tings. 

Climbing Columnea. (Columnea scan- 



dens.) Flowers from August to Oc- 
tober, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Scarlet Thunbergia. ( Thunbergia coc- 
cinea.) Flowers from May to Sep- 
tember, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Climbing Holmskioldia. {HolmsMoldia 
scandens.) Flowers from April to 
December, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 



Involucrate Ipomoea. {Ipomcea involu- 
crata.) Flowers in July and August, 
in sandy loam. Seeds. 

Roxburgh's Ipomaea. {Ipomcea Rox- 
burghii.) Flowers from June to Au- 
gust, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Climbing Dalbergia. (Dalbergia scan- 
dens.) Flowers from April to June, 
in sandy loam. Cuttings. 



Twining Teramnus. (Teramnus volu- 

hilis.) Flowers in July and August, 

in rich mould. Cuttings. 
Pendulous Galactia. ( Galactia pen- 

dula.) Flowers in July and August, 

in loamy peat. Cuttings. 
Ceylon Uvaria. {Uvaria zeylanica.) 

Flowers in June and July, in peaty 

loam. Cuttings. 



PINK. 



Seaforth's Nightshade. {Solanum Sea- 
fortliianum.) Flowers from July to 
September, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Ciliated Bindweed. {Convolvulus cilia- 
tus.) Flowers from July to Septem- 
ber, in sandy loam. Seeds. 

Greatest Ceylon Bindweed. {Convol- 



vulus maximus.) Flowers in July and 
August, in rich mould. Division of 
the root. 

Large-flowered Cr^T)tostegia. ( Cry- 
ptostegia grandiflora.) Flowers in 
June and July, in rich mould. Cut- 
tings. 



Twining Nightshade. {Solanum volu- 
bilis.) Flowers in June and July, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Blue-flowering Heteropteris. {Hefe- 
ropteris ccerulea.) Flowers in July 
and August, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Large-flowered Thunbergia. ( Thun- 
bergia grandiflora.) Flowers from 



May to September, in peaty loam. 
Cuttings. 

Five-flowered Bindweed. {Convolvulus 
pentantkus.) Flowers from July to 
September, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

VerticiUate Bindweed. {Convolvulus 
verticillafus.) Flowers from July to 
September, in rich mould. Seeds, 



Mauritian Periploca. {Periploca mau- 1 Namm Unona. ( Unona Narum.) 
ritiana.) Flowers in July and August, Flowers in May and June, in peatv 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. - j loam. Cuttings. 



318 



THE DRY STOVE. 

Authors in general have considered the Dry Stove as a receptacle for 
such plants as requke an intermediate temperature between the green- 
house and moist stove. Our ^iew of the subject is quite different ; we 
presume the Dry Stove to be a house in which such plants are to be grown 
as require an equally high temperature, but which are impatient of that 
degree of humidity necessary in the moist stove. For example, we may 
state some of the more tender Euj^horhias, BlaJcea, Echites, Roxhurghiay 
MalpMghia, Theophrasta, Mi/rtus, DiUenia, Caryophyllus, AtrocarpuSy 
Jacquinia, Plumieria, Jatropha, and Theobroma. The Dry Stove has 
also been considered by many as a house in which the culture of succulent 
plants only may be carried on. ^lodern discovery has sufficiently proved 
that the majority of succulent plants prosper better in a temperature 
much below that of stoves in general, and we think that we have prett}' 
clearly demonstrated, in a former part of these pages, the utihty of 
growing that singular and interesting tribe of plants by themselves, in a 
much lower temperature than has hitherto been recommended. As an 
instance of former practice in this respect we may quote that in use in 
Kew garden, where the Agave americana and similar plants are subjected 
to the unnecessary heat of what is called the Dry Stove, along with some 
others which might peradventure in favourable situations exist almost in 
the open air. 

In all extensive collections of plants two separate stoves are absolutely 
necessary, exclusive of the Orchidege House ; the one to contain the more 
delicate species, and such as require the highest temperature, the other 
to contain such as are less delicate, and those also that requu'e abundance 
of moisture. Such, therefore, we denominate the Dry and Humid Stoves. 
There is no doubt but palms, aquatics, and tropical fruits could be cul- 
tivated in one or other of these, but they would be cultivated much 
better in houses expressly set apart for them, and present a much more 
imposing effect. 



COXSTRUCTIOX. 



319 



Another important advantage arises from an arrangement of this sort, 
namely, that of inducing ciiltiyators to aim at perfection in the cultiva- 
tion of certain tribes, T\-hich they ^ould arrive at by directing their atten- 
tion to selections, and not attempting the fonnation of collections, as is 
too often the case. There are few lovers of plants but have a partiality- 
for some tribes or genera more than for others, and upon these they lavish 
all their care and attention, while others less in their estimation are very 
much neglected. How much better, therefore, would it be to direct 
their attention to some one or two sections most agreeable to them, and 
to cultivate them well, rather than attempt the cultivation of a general 
collection, which never can be satisfactoiily accomplished in one or two 
houses. 

COXSTRrCTIOX OF THE DRY STOVE. 

In consti'uction, the Diy Stove need not be different fi'om the Humid 
Stove, which see. It is in the method of cultm'e that the difference exists, 
and that, as we have already obsei-ved, consists principally in a more 
scanty supply of water, the plants not requiring so much, being for the 
most part of slow growth. There is also another point in which they 
differ : while the plants in the moist stove stand on a floor of gravel, 
coal-ashes, or similar diy materials, the majority of Diy Stove plants 
require to be plunged in a bed of tan, leaves, or other fermentable mat- 
ter, or in a bed of scoriae, heated from beneath by means of steam or hot- 
water pipes. Plants of the foiToer description grow veiy rapidly, and if 
placed in a bed of tan. Sec, would soon grow beyond aU reasonable 
bounds, from the increased excitement at their roots ; besides, the quan- 
tity of water necessary to be syringed over them daily woidd soon rot 
the materials into wliich they are plunged. 

Plants of the latter description, being delicate growers, require the 
stimulating power of a mild bottom heat, and the quantity of water 
necessary for them has little effect on the bed into which they are plunged. 
All Dry Stove plants however, do not require to be plunged in a bottom 
heat, at least during the periods when they are in a dormant state ; shelves 
should be arranged against the back wall for their reception during these 
periods, and the treUised platform over the front flues should be set apart 
for small plants, and such as are in a state or of a description not to 
require such stimulus. 

In estabhshments where a separate succulent house is not deemed 
necessary, the Dry Stove is then the proper habitation for such plants as 



320 



THE DRY STOVE. 



EuphorMa, Stapelia^ and Cactcea, but certainly not for Crassulu and Aloe. 
These, however, should upon no consideration be plunged into a bottom 
heat, but should occupy shelves or other situations where they may be 
kept dry at the root, and be fully exposed to the sun and air. 

Tlie mode of heating the Dry Stove does not differ from that of other 
plant-houses, only as a higher temperature is requked, provision must be 
made by increasing the number of flues, steam or hot-water pipes, as has 
been noticed in the Moist or Humid Stove. For the purpose of producing 
a mild bottom heat for the plants to be placed on, a much better, neater, 
and less expensive method, instead of filling the pit with fermentable mate- 
rial, such as tan, leaves, or dung, would be to leave it an open vault, covered 
over at top with twelve-mch tiles, laid on iron bearers : on these tiles 
some fine river-sand might be placed in which to plunge the pots, or to 
set them on. The necessary heat would be obtained by carrying hot 
water or steam pipes through it so as to heat the chamber, which would 
give it out through the tiles on the top to the plants in an uniform and 
sufficient quantity ; or the chamber or vault might be intersected with 
brick flues, through which the pipes should run, or even be filled entirely 
with brick-bats, or soft porous stones, as already recommended in the 
early part of tliis work : these would absorb the heat, and give it out 
gradually, even long after the steam or hot water had ceased to circulate 
amongst them. Small tubes might be introduced through the tiles or 
bed of sand, to admit copious supplies of steam into the body of the 
house when requu'ed. 

The directions for propagation, already so fully entered into in the Moist 
Stove, are in most cases apphcable to this also. 



321 



SELECT LIST OF DRY STOVE PLA^^TS. 



WHITE. 



Three-nerv'ed Blakea. {BlaTxea triner- 

via.) Flowers in June and July, in 

sandy peat. Layers. 
Five-nerved Blakea. (BlaJiea quin- 

guenervia.) Flowers in June and 

July, in sandy peat. Cutting's. 
Crenulate Limonia. {Lirnonia crenu- 

lata.) Flowers in June and July, in 

ricli mould. Cutting's. 
Orange - leaved Limonia. ( Limonia 

citrifoJia.) Flowers in June and 

July, rich mould. Cuttings. 
Showy Oxyanthus. ( Ojcyanthus specio- 

sus.) Flowers in July, in peaty loam. 

Cuttings. 

Long-flowered Randia. {Randia longi- 
flora.) Flowers from August to Sep- 
tember, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Chinese Randia. {Randia sinensis.) 
Flowers from June to August, in 
loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Round-leaved RrikHcl. {Randia rotun- 
difoUa.) Flowers from June to Au- 
gust, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Many - flowered Kxostemma. ( Exo- 
stemma floribunduni,) Flowers in 
Jime and July, in loamy peat. Cut- 
tings. 

Long- - flowered Kxostemma. ( Exo- 
stemma longifiorum.) Flowers in June 
and July, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Jussiceus's Theophrasta. {Theophms- 
ta Jussi<ei. Flowers in June and 
July, in rich mould. Seeds. 

Long - leaved Theophrasta. ( Theo- 
phrasta longifoUa.) Flowers in May 
and June, in rich mould. Cuttings. ' 

Bracelet Jacquinia. {Jacquinia annu- 
laris.) Flowers in June and July, in 
peaty loam. Cuttinsfs. 

Lambert's Plumieria. (Plumieria Lam- 
bertiana.) Flowers in Ju]y and Au- 
gust, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Jamaica Andi-omeda. (Andromeda 



I jamaicensis.) Flowers from May to 
September, in sandy peat. Layers, 
i Bundled Andromeda. ( Andromeda 
\ fasciculata.) Flowers in April and 

"^ISIay, in sandy peat. Cutting's. 
: Exotic Murraya. i^duvraya exotica.) 
I Flowers from August to September, 
} in rich mould. Cuttings. 
I Panicled ]MiuTaya. {Murraya pani- 
\ cidata.) Flowers in June and July, 
in rich mould. Cuttings. 
True Cinnamon. {Cinnamomum verum.) 
Flowers fi'om June to September, in 
sandy peat. Cuttings, 
i Sweet Cinnamon. {Cinnamomum dulce.) 
I Flov^ers from INIarch to June, in 
1 loamy peat. Cuttings. 
I Fi'agrant Gardenia. {Gardenia fra- 
i grans.) Flowers in June and July, 
in loamy peat. Cuttings. 
Shining- Gardenia. {Gardenia lucida.) 
Flowers from June to August, in 
loamy peat. Cuttings. 
Pubescent Gardenia. {Gardinia puhe- 
scens. Flowers in June and JiJy, in 
loamy peat. Cuttings . 
"White Plumieria. {Plumieria alba.) 
Flowers in July and August, in rich 
mould. Cuttings. 
W hite-flowered Plumieria. {Plumieria 
leucantha.) Flowers in July and Au- 
g'ust, in rich mould. Cuttings. 
Long-leaved Plumieria. ( Plumieria 
longifoUa. Flowers in July and Au- 
gust,' in rich mould. Cuttings. 
Milky Cerbera. ( Cerbera lactaria. ) 
Flowers from June to September, in 
rich mould. Cuttings. 
Small-leaved Plumieria. {Plumieria 
parvifolia.) Flowers in July and 
August, in rich mould. Cuttings. 
Esculent Premna. {Premna esculenta.) 
Flowers in April and May, in sandy 
loam. Cuttings, 



Y 



322 



THE DRY STOVE. 



Plumier's Talauma. (Talauma Plumi- 
erii.) Flowers in April and May, in 
peat and loam. Layers. 

Grateful - scented Tabernaemontana. 
{Taberncemontana gratissima.) Flow- 
ers from May to September, in peat 
and loam. Cutting's. 

Dense - flowered Tabernaemontana. 
{Taberncemontana densifiora.) Flow- 
ers in June, in peat and loam. Cut- 
ting's. 

Long-leaved Anthocleista. ( Antho- 
cleista macrophylla.) Flowers in 
June and July, in peat and loam. 
Cutting's. 

White Screw Pine. {Pandanus albus.) 

Rich mould. Seeds. 
Eatable Screw Pine. {Pandanus edw 

lis.) Rich mould. Seeds. 
Dwarf Screw Pine. {Pandanus humilis.) 

Rich mould. Seeds. 
Catappan Terminalia. ( Terminalia 

catappa.) Flowers in June and July, 

in peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Molucca Terminalia. {Terminalia mo- 

luccana. ) Flowers from June to 

August, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 
True Bread Fruit. {Arfocarpus incisa.) 

Flowers in June and July, in rich 

mould. Cuttings. 
Jaca Tree, {Arfocarpus iyitegrijolia.) 

Flowers in June and July, in rich 

mould. Cuttings. 
Wliite Carolinea. ( Carolinea alba. ) 

Flowers in July and August, in peaty 

loam. Cuttings. 
Common Allspice. {Pimenta vulgaris.) 

Flowers from May to July, in sandy 

peat. Cuttings. 
White Canella. {Canella alba.) Flowers 

in June and July, in rich loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Laurel-leaved Canella. {Canella lauri- 
folia.) Flowers from July to Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Most-fragrant Galipea. {Galipea odo- 



ratissima.) Flcnrei's in May, in loam 
and peat. Cuttings. 
Great-flowered Tabernaemontana. (Ta- 
bermemontana grandijlora.) Flowers 
in May and June, in rich mould. 
Cuttings. 

Curled Tabernaemontana. {Tabernae- 
montana crispa.) Flowers from May 
to October, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Sounding Sand Box-Tree. {Hura stre- 
pens.) Flowers in June and July, in 
loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Rattling Sand Box Tree. {Hura ere- 
pitans.) Flowers in June and July, 
in peaty loam. Seeds. 

Shining Croton. {Croton nitens.) Flow- 
ers in July and August, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 

Aromatic Croton. {Croton aromatica.) 
Flowers in July and August, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 

Snow-white Croton. {Croton nivea.) 
Flowers in July and August, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 

Sour Gourd. {Adansonia digitata.) 
Flowers in July and August, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 

Canescent Pterospermum. {Ptero- 
spermum canescens.) Flowers in July 
and August, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Cork-tree leaved Pterospermum. {Pte- 
rospermum suberifolium. ) Flowers 
from September to October, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 

Umbelled Echites. {EcMtes umbellata.) 
Flowers in June and July, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 

Acrid Wild Clove. ( Myrtus acris. ) 
Flowers from May to July, in sandy 
peat. Cutting. 

Allspice-like ]Myrtle. {Myrtus pimen- 
toides.) Flowers from March to May, 
in sandy peat. Cutting. 

Bushy Myrtle. {Myrtus damosa.) Flow- 
ers in June and July, in sandy peat. 
Cuttings. 



Glaucous Camphor Tree. {Cinnamo- 

mum glaucum.) Flowers in March 

and June, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 
Twiggy Cuphea. ( Ouphea virgata. ) 

Flowers from August to September, 

in sandy loam. Seeds. 
Slender Cuphea. ( Cuphea gracilis. ) 

Flowers in July and August, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Racemose Cuphea. {Cuphearacemosa.) 

Flowers in June and July, in sandy 

loam. Cuttings. 
Lindley's Hibiscus. {Hibiscus Lindlei.) 



Flowers in December, in peat and 

loam. Cuttings. 
Glaucous-leaved Lisianthus. {Lisian- 

thus glaucifolius.) Flowers in June 

and July, m loamy peat. Cuttings. 
Hair>^ Columnea. {Columnea hirsuta.) 

Flowers from August to November, 

in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Red - leaved Columnea. ( Columnea 

rutilans.) Flowers from August to 

September, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 
Wedge-leaved Silverweed. {Argyreia 

cuneata.) Flowers in August and 

September, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 



SELECT LIST OF DRY STOVE PLANTS. 



323 



Pendulous Laurel. (Laurus pendula.) 

Flowers in April and May, in loamy 

peat. Cuttings. 
Tanquin Cerbera. {Cerhera Tanqubi.) 

Flowers in ^March and May, in rich 

mould. Cuttinsfs. 
Lar^e-flowered EcMtis. {Echitis gran- 

diflora. Rowers in June and July, 

in peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Apple-fruited Silverweed. {Argyreia 

pomacea.) Flowers in June and July, 

in rich mould. Cuttings. 
Glossy Barbadoes Chen-y. (Malpighia 

niti'da.) Flowers from March to Au- 
gust, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 



Berry - bearing Barbadoes Cherry. 
(Malpighia cocci/era.) Flowers from 
August to September, in peaty loam. 
Cuttings. 

Pleasing Gardenia. {Gardenia amcena.) 
Flowers from June to August, in 
rich mould. Cuttings. 

Gloriosa-like Roxburghia. {Roxbur- 
gMa gloriosoides.) Rowers in April 
and May, in peat^' loam. Suckers. 

Show>' Urena. {Urenaspedosa.) Flow- 
ers in November, in sandy loam. 
Seeds. 



Buffalo Burchellia. {BurcJiellia huha- 

lijia.) Flowers in ^lay and June, in 

loamy peat. Cuttings. 
Leathery Ardisia. {Ardisia coriacea.) 

Flowers in July and August, in sandy 

loam. Cuttinsrs. 
Scarlet Physic Xut. (JairopJia cocci- 

nea.) Flowers from May to August, 

in peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Fiddle-leaved Physic Nut. {Jatropha 



pandur<e folia.) Flowers in May and 
August, in rich mould. Seeds. 

Climbing Columnea. {Columnea scan- 
dens.) Flowers from August to Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. T^uttings. 

Shining Euphorbia, (Eujjharbia splen- 
dens.) Flowers from June to Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Melville's Cuphea. {CupJiea Melvilla.) 
Flowers from August to September, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 



ORANGE. 



Orange-flovrered Jacquinia. (Jacqui- 
niaaurantiaca.) Flowers from April 
to September, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Long-fruited Jacquinia. ( Jacquinia 



macrocarpa.) Flowers from ^Slay to 
September, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Waved Tabernaemon'tana. {Tahertice- 
montana undidata.) Flowers from 
May to September, in rich mould. 
Cuttings. 



BROWN. 



Two-coloured Chocolate Nut. {TTieo- 
hroma hicolor.) Flowers in June and 
July, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Common Cacao. {TJieohroma cacao.) 
Flowers from September to October, 
in rich mould. Cuttings. 



Guiana Chocolate-nut. ( Theohrama 
guianensis. ) Flowers in June and 
July, in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Medicinal Sterculia. {StercuUa fraga- 
cantha.) Flowers in May, in loam 
and peat. Cuttings. 



BLUE. 



Three-leaved Columna. (Columna tri- 
foliata.) Flowers from August to 
November, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Carolina Jacaranda. (Jacaranda Caro- 
liniana.) Flowers in Julv and Au- 
gust, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 



Oval-leaved Jacaranda. {Jacaranda 
ovaVifoVia.) Flowers in April and 
May, in peat and loam. Cuttings. 

Painted Ruelia. {Ruelia picta.) Flow- 
ers from April to August, in peat and 
loam. Cuttings. 

Y 2 



324 



THE DRY STOVE. 



Decandolle's Taluma. {Tahnuna CandoUii.) Flowers in April and May, in peat 
and loam. Layers. 



Splendid Hibiscus. {Hibiscus splejidens.) Flowers in May,, in rich monld. 

Cuttings. 



Tall Flower Fence. (Pohwiana elafa.) 

Flowers in June and July, in rich 

mould. Seeds. 
Shining- Lam-el. { Laurus sjjiendem.) 

Flowers from March to June, in 

loamy peat. Cuttings. 
Bundle-flowered Laurel. {Laurm flori- 

bunda.) Flowers from June to Au- 

gnst, in loamy peat. Cuttinsrs. 
Bfoad-leaved Lisianthus. {Lmanthus 

latifolius.) Flowers from July to 

September, in loamy peat. Seeds. 
Heart-leaved Lisianthus. (Lisianfhm 

corditoUus.) Flowers in July and 

Auffiist, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 
Forked Strophanthus. {Strophanihm 

dichotornus.) Flowers fi'om February" 

to ]March. in rich mould. Cuttings'. 
Thevetia Cerbera. {Cerbera Thevetia.) 

Flowers in Jmie and July, in rich 

mould. Cutting's. 
Tall Termiiialia. (TernunaJia procera.) 

Flowers in June and July, in peaty 

loam. Cuttiug:s. 
Sho^y Dillenia.^ {DiUenia speciosa.) 

Flowers fi'om June to August, in 

peaty loam. Cutting's. 
Ai'omatic Clove Tree.^ (CaruopJiyUm 

aromatlcus.) Flowers in May' and 

June, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 
Herbert's Cassia. ( Cassia Herbertiana.) 

Flowers in November, in loam and 

peat. Seeds. 
Short -leaved Cassia. (Cassia brevi- 

folia.) Rowers in June and July, in 

'sandy loam. Seeds. 
Loug--haired Hibiscus. {Hibiscus cri- 

}utus.) nowers in September and 

October, in peat and loam. Seeds. 
MacLeay's Hibiscus. {Ribiscus Mac- 

leayanus.) Flowers in August and 

September, in loam and peat. Cut- 
tings. 



Doubtful Barbadoes Cherr\-. Qlalpi- 
ghia dubia. ) Flowers in July and 
August, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Slender Cinnamon. ( Cinnamomum 
gracile. ) Flowers from March to 
June, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Broad-leaved Gardenia. ( Gardenia 
lati folia. ) Flowers from June to 
July, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Yellow Plimiieria. (Plumierid lutea.) 
Flowers in July and August, in rich 
mould. Cuttings. 

Chaste-flowered Plumieria. {Phnmeria 
pudica. Flowers in June and July, 
in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Sweet-scented Tabemaemontana. (Ta- 
ber)icemo?ifa}ia fragrans.) Flowers 
from October to November, in rich 
mould. Cuttings. 

Slender Brucea. (Brucea gracilis.) 
Flowers in April and May.^in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 

Cor^Tubose Pavonia. (Pavojua corym- 
b'osa.) Flowers in July and August, 
in sandy loam. Seeds. 

Broad-leaved Lily Thorn. {Catesbceu 
latifolia.) Flowers in June and July, 
in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Spinous Lily Thorn. {Catesbdsa spi- 
nosa.) Flowers from May to Sep- 
tember, in sandy peat. Cuttings. 

Suberect Echites. ' (Echifes suberecta.) 
nowers from June to August, in 
peatj- loam. Cuttings. 

Twisted Echites. {Echifes torosa.) 
Flowers from June to August, in 
peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Fringed CaruUuma. kCaruUmna tm- 
briata.) Rowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 

Crenulated Caiielluma. (. Canelluma 
crenalata.) Rowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Cuttings. 



GREEN. 

Cogwood-tree Laurel. (Laurus Clilo- j Shining Cinnamon. ( Cinnamomum 
foiylon.) Rowers in June and July, j nifidum.) Rowers from September 
in loamy peat. Cuttings. ' I to October, in peat%- loam. Cuttings. 



SELECT LIST OF DRY STOVE PLANTS. 



325 



Camphor Tree. {Cinnamomim cam- 
phora.) Flowers from June to Au- 
gust, in loamy peat. Cuttings. 

Rusty Brucea. {Brucea ferruginea.) 
Flowers in April and May, in peaty 
loam. Cuttings. 

Sumatm Brucea. {Brucea sumatrana.) 



Flowers in April and ^lay, in peaty 

loam. Cuttinsrs. 
Multifid Physic Xut. {Jatropha multi- 

fida.) Flowers in June and July, in 

rich mould. Cuttings. 
Curcas Physic Xut. {Jatropha Curcas.) 

Flowers ' from ^lay to August, in 

peaty loam. Cuttings. 



Painted Barbadoes Cherry. {Malpi- 
ghia fiicata,) Flowers from March 
to August, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Smooth - leaved Barbadoes Cherry. 
{MaJpighia glabra.) Flowers from 
March to July, in peaty loam. Cut- 
tings. 

Linear-leaved Jacquinia. {Jacqidnia 
linear^.) Flowers from May to Sep- 
tember, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 

Red Plumieria. {Plumieria rubra.) 
Flowers in July and August, in rich 
mould. Cuttings. 

Sarmentose Strophanthus. ( Stro- 
phanthus sarmentosm. ) Flowers 
from May to July, in peaty loam. 
Cuttings. 

Princely Carolinea. {CaroUnea prin- 

ceps.) Flowers in July and August, 

in peatj' loam. Cuttings. 
Less Carolinea. {CaroU7iea minor.) 

Flowers in June and July, in peaty 

loam. Cuttings. 
Showy Carolinea. (CarGlinea insignis.) 



Flowers in July and August, in 

peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Fair Flower Fence. ( Poinciana pul- 

cherrima. ) Flowers from June to 

September, in rich mould. Cuttings. 
Downy Grislea. {Grislea fome?ifosa.) 

Flowers from May to June, in sandy 

peat. Cuttings. 
Coloured Ardisia. {Ardisia colorata.) 

Flowers from July to August, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Elegant Ardisia. {Ardisia splendem.) 

Flowers in June and July, in sandy 

loam. Cuttings. 
Shrubby Cerbera. {Cerbera fruficosa.) 

Flowers in May and June, in rich 

mould. Cuttings. 
Fragrant Pavonia. {Pavonia odorata.) 

Flowers in July and August, in 

sandy loam. Cuttings. 
Thyme-leaved Cuphea. {Cuphea ser- 

pyUifoUa.) Flowers from September 

to October, in peaty loam. Cuttings. 
Large -headed Brownea. {Broicnea 

grandiceps.) Sandy loam. Cuttings. 



326 



THE ORCHIDEiE HOUSE. 



Orchideous plants, whether regarded for the beauty of their colours, 
the singularity of their organization, the grotesque forms which they 
assume, or the dehcious fragrance of their blossoms, must be admitted to 
be among the most extraordinary vegetable productions of the globe. It 
is somewhat singular, that notwithstanding the abundance in which they 
are found, particularly in the tropics, they should have escaped the obser- 
vation of collectors so long, and equally so, that of those which were 
brought into Europe, so few of them were preserved for any length of 
time. 

In the early editions of the Hortus Kewensis (our copy is dated 1789), 
only fifteen species are recognized, and up to the beginning of the present 
century only fifty-one species of exotic Orchideae are enumerated in our 
best plant catalogues. Nor was it till within the last ten or fifteen years 
that the great influx of Orchideae has taken place, and that chiefly owing 
to a few spirited individuals, who, struck with their extraordinary habits 
and beauty, made them their study, and encouraged their introduction. 
Amongst the most conspicuous of these is his Grace the Duke of Devon- 
shire, who has been most liberal in his encouragement, not only by 
sending out collectors to discover new sorts, but also by patronising the 
cultivation of them at home upon a very extensive scale. With his 
Grace's name we may associate those of the late Mrs. A. Harrison, of 
Liverpool, the late Mr. Cattley, James Bateman, Esq., and the Messrs. 
Loddiges, RolUnsons^, Low, and Knight. The collection of Messrs. Lod- 
diges is the most ancient as well as the most extensive, and is reputed to 
amount to about one thousand species and varieties, altogether the most 
splendid collection in the world. 

I'or the best principles of the cultivation of this tribe, and to a 
great extent for the taste also which has grown up within these few 
years, w^e are much indebted to Mr. Cooper, of Wentworth House, who 



GEOGEAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION—FKUCTIFIC ATIOX. 32/ 

has for many years cultivated these plants to a degree of perfection 
seldom equalled and certainly never yet surpassed. 

Every year is adding to the number of new species imported, and also 
to the number of admirers of this grotesque group of plants, so that it 
has now become as fashionable to possess a collection of Orchidese as it 
was about the beginning of this century to possess one of heaths. 

The geographical distribution of Orchideous plants is not so very 
equally divided as that of some other natural orders. For in Europe and 
other temperate regions of the globe they are less abundantly found, and 
towards the arctic regions disappeai', while in and towards the tropics they 
abound in surprising numbers. In the temperate regions they are, for 
the most part, teiTCstrial, growing in meadows and pastures, while within 
the tropics they are chiefly parasitical, or rather epiphytal, growing upon 
the trunks and branches of hving trees and shrubs, and also upon the 
trunks of those that have fallen. Some can hardly be said to have any 
fixed place of abode, and are found forming large tufts firmly knit together 
by their numerous and tortuous roots, and suffering Httle from being 
thrown about as the passing kick of the traveller may send them. 

A great number of tropical Orchideous plants are found adhering to 
the branches of trees in the most dense forests in an epiphytal manner, 
not fixed parasitically by their roots to the bark of the trees that support 
them. In such situations they are consequently shaded from direct light 
by the leaves and branches which surround them : they are also placed 
in a moist atmosphere and high temperature, ventilation and evaporation 
being almost precluded. 

To the fructification of Orchideous plants it may be necessary to make 
some allusion, inasmuch as it is stiU but imperfectly known ; and 
although Mr. R. Brown and a few others seem to have the production of 
plants of this order fi'om seeds at their command, still the generahty of 
cultivators have failed in producing similar results, and not a few, other- 
wise intelligent and accurate in their botanical researches, deem the 
theory altogether visionary. 

" The singular plants which constitute this class are distinguished from 
all others by the anomalous structure of their flowers. These do not, as 
is usually the case, contain a certain number of stamens, surrounding a 
central ovarium or style, but, on the contrary, are furnished with a soli- 
tary fleshy undivided process, round which the sepals radiate, and which 
supphes the place of stamens and style. The nature of this process has 
been variously explained : the modern opinion is, that it is formed by the 
accretion of the stamens and style into a single mass, and this opinion 



328 



THE ORCHIDE^ HOUSE. 



seems to be confirmed by analysis and analogy. Omitting, therefore, a 
notice of such theories respecting its nature as are opposed to that which 
is now received as the most correct, it will suffice to explain a httle in 
detail the opinion which is adopted in this work. The central process, 
called the columna or column, is understood to be formed by the fila- 
ments of three stamens surrounding a style, and by mutual accretion 
firmly united with it, and with each other, into a solid mass. Of these 
thi'ee stamens it most frequently happens that the two lateral are sterile^ 
and not fm*nished ^ith even the vestige of an anthera, and that their 
presence is not indicated by more than two h'regular excrescences, as in 
Orchis, or by the same number of small appendages, as in Satyrium, 
or by two horn-hke or tooth-like processes, present in several of the 
genera, with waxy pollen masses ; it even happens, and not imfre- 
quently, that no vestige of them remains. But in Cypripedium both are 
fertile, and bear perfect anthers, while the central stamen is barren and 
fohaceous. 

^Mien the lateral stamens are, as above stated, abortive, which is the 
most common form of the column, the central stamen bears at its upper 

extremity an anther, which is either moveable or fixed firmly in its place. 
The pollen which this contains assumes three very distinct appearances 
in different tribes. It is either - granular, dividing into many separable 
small pieces, as in Orchis ; orpowdeiy, consisting of an infinite number of 
granules, as in Spiranthes ; or waxy, when it consists of a few large con- 
crete masses, as in Epidendrum. The stigma is most frequently concave, 
and placed nearly under the anther, but in such a manner that there is 
no contact between it and the pollen. In what way, therefore, fecunda- 
tion can take place amoug truly g^iiandrous plants, is one of those 
mysterious contrivances of uatiu'e which have not as yet been explained. 
It is generally beheved to take place by absorption in some undiscovered 
manner before the flowers expand ; but it is extremely difficult to un- 
derstand how this can occur in many genevdi.'' — Encyclopcsdia of 
Plants. 



ox THE COXSTRUCTIOX OF THE ORCHIDE-E HOUSE. 

Orchideous plants require a species of cultivation pecuharly adapted to 
themselves, and whoever means to attempt their culture must set apart a 
structure for the express pm*pose. The dimensions of an Orchideous 
House must, of course, depend on the circumstances of the ovmer, the 
kind and extent of the intended collection, and some other particulars, 



CONSTRUCTION. 



32g 



that can only be settled on the spot. The form and aiTangement, how- 
ever, may be more positively determined. 

" The original house appropriated to the growth of Orchideae, at Chats- 
worth [as described by Mr. Paxton, in "Magazine of Botany," Vol. ii., 
p. 150, and of which^the annexed sketch will afford some idea], is seventy- 




five feet long and twelve feet six inches wide. The walk is com- 
posed of pieces of wood nailed to sleepers, and is three feet six inches 
wide. The flues are inclosed in hot-air chambers, and the heat is 
admitted into the house by means of sliding ventilators on each side of 
the walk. 

" On the top of the hot-air chambers the plants are placed, as seen in 
the accompanying section : the stones covering the chamber being always 
warm, give a gentle heat to the roots of the plants placed on them. The 
top of the air-chamber is two feet six inches above the level of the floor. 
The house contains three leaden water cisterns; the two end ones 
are three feet square, the centre one three feet wide by eight feet long, 
and is occupied with aquatic plants. 

" There are four fire places on the common principle : the two end 
ones pass into the front chamber, cross under the walk in the centre 
of the house, pass along the back chamber, and empty themselves at each 
end. The two fires in the back • wall pass once along the front of the 
back chamber, and, crossing through the wall at each end of the house, 
pass along the outside of the wall, and heating the back sheds, A, empty 
themselves in the centre of the back wall of the house. 

The height of the back wall of the house is eleven feet sLx inches, and 
that of the front two feet six inches ; on the top of the front wall is an 



330 



THE ORCHIDE^ HOUSE. 



elevation of glass two feet six inches high, making the front five feet in 
height, 

" In front of the house is a small pit, i, used for half-hardy plants. 
The water is conveyed into the cisterns by leaden pipes from a reservoir, 
and is let on or taken off at pleasure, by turning off taps fixed at each 
end. For the purpose of readily giving humidity to the house, perforated 
pipes are passed along it, which when turned on, throw water on the 
floor, or over the back chamber.'* 

This house has many advantages ; but we would suggest that the 
greenhouse species of Orchideae, as well as the hardy exotic, and even 
native species, should be kept in the pit in front, and which could be 
readily heated at one end by forming ventilators in the front wall of the 
house, through which a sufficiency of heat would find its waf to answer 
every purpose of preserving what may be denominated greenhouse species. 
The North American and other hardy sorts would require no other 
artificial heat than that of the protection afforded by the glass covering 
dm'ing winter, and sufficient shading during summer. By this arrange- 
ment the whole natural order would be brought together, and be more 
conveniently attended to than if scattered about in different parts of the 
garden. 

Amongst other vast improvements and alterations going on at Chats- 
worth, a new Orchideous House has been erected, upon the metaUic curvi- 
linear principle — a circumstance we are rather surprised at, as the humidity 
usually kept up in houses of this kind will have a great tendency to create 
rust, and a consequent injury to the plants, from the condensed vapour 
falling back on them. We have no doubt, however, that Mr. Paxton has 
taken all necessary precautions to render this house as fit for the purpose 
as possible. 

The span-roofed form of house, however, appears to us to present 
many very important advantages, and it would appear that some of the 
best cultivators of the day are of a similar opinion. The magnificent 
house of the Messrs. Loddiges, at Hackney, and that of the Messrs. Rollin- 
son, at Tooting, are upon this principle ; and that of Mr. Knight, in the 
King's Road, Chelsea, differs from them only in having a wall run up the 
centre, constituting as it were two houses set back to back, having a 
communication between them. 

The house of Messrs. Loddiges is in length one hundred and forty feet, 
breadth eighteen feet, and ten feet high in the centre. An immense pit, 
filled up to nearly the height of three feet above the ground level, occupies 
the centre of the house, and extends towards each end, leaving sufficient 



MESSRS. ROLLIXSDn's HOUSE. 



331 



breadth for a passage round it. Upon this pit or bed the larger and 
taller plants are set. On each side of the house is a platform, nearly four 
feet wide, occupied with smaller specimens, and under these platforms 
the hot-water pipes are placed. From the rafters are suspended hundreds 
of plants, some attached to pieces of wood, others in ^vire or wicker 
baskets, some in pots mossed over, and others having only a little moss 
tied round them. 

The majority are planted in pots, some of which are of very large size, 
and are intended for specimens, but those for sale vary in size from the 
size known as small forty-eights to that of sixteens. The house, notwith- 
standing its great size, is completely filled] with Orchideae, some of which 
are in flower at every period of the year. 

The house of the Messrs. EoUinson, at Tooting, is rather less than the 
last, but it is the intention of the spirited and highly respectable pro- 
prietors to extend it considerably ; and as difficulties of a local nature 
occur to prevent its extension longitudinally, it is to be by adding 'to it 
transversely, which, in our opinion, vrill be an advantage rather than 
otherwise. 

The length of this house is seventy feet, the breadth fifteen, and the 
height at the centre ten feet two inches. The side walls are five feet 
high, from whence the roof springs. 

This house, also, is of the span-roofed form, and is fitted up in a verv- 
neat and commodious manner. A bed or platform occupies the centre, 
five feet six inches wide, and 
on each side are tables over 
the hot- water pipes, two feet 
four inches broad, upon which 
the plants are set. In the 
middle of the house is a cis- 
tern of water, from which, by 
the aid of Dr. Scott's patent 
garden pump, as shown in the 
opposite sketch, the whole 
house, or any part of it, can 
be watered in a few minutes. 
At the end farthest from that 
at which the entrance is situ- 
ated, and over where the 
boiler for the hot-water ap- 
paratus is placed, is a raised platform, upon which some splendid 




332 



THE ORCHIDE-E HOUSE. 



specimens are placed. The house is heated by Kewley's hot -water ap- 
paratus, with one fire and four pipes, two on each side of the house, which 
answers the most sanguine expectations of the proprietors. Being 
anxious to satisfy om*selves upon the capabihties of the hot-water system 
during this severe winter (1S38), we have appUed to many of our friends 
for statements, and are happy to find that in no case has a deficiency of 
heat been experienced when the apparatus has been erected upon correct 
principles. The following extract from ^Ir. W. Rollinson's letter, now 
before us, says, " during the severe frost on Friday, January the 19th, we 
were able to command a heat of seventy -five degrees of Pahi-enheit." The 
external temperature at the same time was ten degrees below zero at 
Claremont, and there could not have been much difference in the tem- 
perature at Tooting, being within ten miles. 

Upon the whole this house is by far the neatest and best fitted up of 
ny we have had an opportunity of seeing ; but this is less a matter of 
wander when we consider that the Tooting nursery, taking it as a whole, 
both in regard to cultivation and keeping, is second to none in the neigh- 
bourhood of London. If the collection of Messrs. Rollinson do not 
amount to so great a number of species as that of Messrs. Loddiges, there 
can be no doubt in saying that they are by far the best cultivated. 

Next to these in respect to collection and keeping, is that of Mr. 
Knight, who, by the bye, was the first nurseryman who followed Messrs. 
Loddiges in cultivating this tribe of plants, and in the formation of his 
collection must have expended a considerable capital. He purchased the 
collection of the late 'Mi. Cattley, long considered the best private cul- 
tivator ; and afterwards that of the late Mrs. A. Harrison, of Liverpool. 
The possession of two such collections in addition to his own, very 
rapidly raised ^Ir. Knight to a position of eminence in this particular branch 
of culture. 

We have already obseiTcd that !Mr. Knight's house is upon nearly the 
same principle as those above described, only being divided as it were 
into two, by means of a wall up the centre, but through which there is 
a communication. ^Miile speaking of this waU, we may here observe, 
that almost the only pan of !Mr. Knight's culture we disapprove of is, 
that of attempting to cover this wall with epiphytes. This is no doubt 
a very natm-al expectation when we consider the habitats of many of 
them. It appears, however, fi'om the state of such plants as have been sub- 
jected to this mode of culture in this collection, and also in that of the 
Kew gardens, where this mode has been long in use, that however well 



MODE OF HEATIXG CULTIVATIOX. 



333 



epiphytes may grow attached to the bark of trees, to rocks, or even to 
old walls, in their native country, they Tvill not equally flourish when 
stuck up against a wall comparatively new, and abounding with cal- 
careous matter, which appeal's to be most inimical to their constitutions. 

Few of this natural order attain any extraordinary perpendicular 
height : those of them that are disposed to elongate to any extent, do so 
naturally, or may be made to do so by training horizontally ; so that a 
low-roofed house is the most proper for them, on account of the economy 
in heating, and that those plants of humbler growth may derive sufficient 
benefit from the sun by being placed near to the glass. A structure, of 
any required length, and upon the principle represented in the annexed 
diagram, would be, in our opinion, a very fit place for the cultivation and 
display of Orchideous plants. 




The mode of heating may either be by hot water or smoke flues, and 
the pipes or flues should be under the side platforms at a, which should 
be covered vrith perforated boarding or trellised work, to admit of the 
ascent of the heated air, not only to keep up a genial warmth around the 
pots, but also to heat the atmosphere of the house with the least expendi- 
ture of fuel. On these side platforms the smaller specimens should be 
placed, by which means they would be brought close under the glass ; 
the larger grovdng sorts placed on the table or platform, in the centre of 
the house, and which may either be completely level, or elevated in the 
centre, as shown in our sketch. 

We consider a cistern of water to be next to indispensable in the Or- 
chideae House, and would propose to place it under the centre platform, 
so as not to occupy space on which plants could be set. 



334 



THE ORCHIDE^ HOUSE. 



THE CULTIVATION OF ORCHIDE^. 

Orchideous plants are capable of reproducing themselves by seeds, and 
no doubt this method is constantly going on in nature ; but the success of 
man in attempting to turn to his advantage this natural property, has 
hitherto been rarely successful. This is a matter of less regret, as the 
majority of them are readily increased by the separation of their parts, 
and is an illustration of one of the many wise provisions made by Nature, 
namely, that plants which rarely produce perfect seed, are capable of 
being increased by a variety of other means ; and again, such as are 
incapable of certain multiplication by those very means, as most annuals, 
and even a great many perennials, produce seeds in the greatest abundance. 

In regard to the cultivation of Orchideous plants, we find the following 
very sensible and useful preHminary remarks by Mr. Paxton, in his very 
excellent Magazine of Botany : — " It is advisable,'^ says he, " for every 
cultivator, as much as possible, to learn the native habits and situation of 
each separate species, in order to insure its successful management. Some 
species are found in low dense woods, where scarcely any sun can pene- 
trate ; others grow on the trees near the open breaks in the wood, where 
they receive a Uttle sun, plenty of light, and a free, but damp air ; others, 
again, are found growing on single trees, in damp but exposed situations ; 
and others grow on single trees in elevated situations, where they are 
subject to a drier air and the burning rays of a tropical sun. All these 
kinds are subjected to a time of drought, and a somewhat low temperature 
for three or four months in the year : the knowledge of which particulars 
marks out the line to be pursued in the cultivation of the different 
species. 

" The plants of the first kind require shading from the rays of the sun, 
either by large plants in the house, by creepers, or by some other means, 
and must have a hot and damp atmosphere. 

Those of the second kind should have a similar atmosphere, but 
will endure more sunshine than the last. The greatest part of the species 
come under this head. 

" Those of the third must also have a damp atmosphere, and plenty of 
heat ; but they thrive best if exposed to the sun, except just at mid-day ; 
for although the sun in the tropics shines with great power, it must be 
remembered that the plants receive considerable shelter from the branches 
of the trees, (although standing single), on which they grow. 

The third class require a lower temperature, less humidity, and nearly 



CLASSIFICATION OF ORCHIDE^. 



335 



a full exposure to the rays of the sun. The plants of aU four enjoy light, 
a free air, and are subjected annually for three months or more to a low 
temperature and great drought, and it is worthy of remark that the time 
of drought and the decrease of temperature occur together. This may 
therefore, be considered their \Ninter, or time of rest." 

It must here, however, be remarked, that this season of rest does not 
occur at the same period to every individual species ; for while some are 
grooving vigorously, others are enjoying a repose, and that of course in 
the same house ; and this is more obvious in newly introduced plants 
than in such as have been long inhabitants of our stoves, who to a very 
great extent accommodate themselves to the general management that 
they are placed under ; and it is not perhaps improbable but that in com'se 
of time the whole, or at least a great part, of every collection will thus 
fai' accommodate themselves to their actual circumstances. The vine and 
peach trees, long accustomed to be forced, become entirely changed in 
this respect, and have been known to push out into bud at mid-winter, 
when it has happened that artificial excitement has been withheld from 
them. 

Most of the plants of this tribe dislike to be moved from one place to 
another, particularly after they have become large : were it otherwise, 
something might be done in the way of temperature by placing them, at 
a proper season, at the coldest end of the house, where they should 
remain during their season of rest, and be also more conveniently kept 
dry. The time when their winter, as it may safely be called, commences, 
is to be determined not by the exact season of the year, but by the ap- 
pearance of the plants themselves ; and when they appear to have the 
fewest external marks of excitability, as a shedding of the fohage, a change 
of colour in the pseudo-bulbs, &c., may be taken for the commencement 
of this season. 

In attempting to treat on the culture of this extraordinary tribe of 
plants, it will be necessary, for brevity sake, to consider them under the 
following heads ; their great dissimilarity of character and geographical 
distribution rendering such an arrangement necessary. 

Orchideous plants may be considered as terrestrial, or epiphytal ; that 
is, either growing upon the ground, or attaching themselves to other 
vegetables, rocks, stones, &c. 

The latter division is by far the most numerous, and are also the most 
extraordinary in their organization. They also occupy such an extent of 
latitude that some distinction must be made in their culture as regards 
temperature. 



336 EPIPHYTAL TROPICAL ORCHIDE^ — POTTING AND SOIL. 



I. EPIPHYTAL, OR PARASITICAL TROPICAL ORCHIDE^. 
POTTING AND SOIL. 

We can scarcely admit that there should be what is usually called a 
general shifting or potting of any plants, much less so of those under our 
present consideration ; because the whole collection in a house can never 
be exactly in the same state as to growth, health, excitement, &c. Pot- 
ting should be attended to according to the circumstances of indi%'idual 
plants, and we have found it a very good practice to examine any par- 
ticular coUection at different periods, selecting at each examination those 
individuals that most required shifting, and leaving such as did not until 
another time. For potting Orchideae it may be taken as a pretty general 
rule as to time, that period at which their season of rest expires, or just 
as they are beginning to show symptoms of grovving. Pots for this tribe 
should be large in proportion to the plants, and cannot be too well 
drained ; indeed, from one third to one half of the pot should be taken 
up with drainage alone, of which broken pots, small pieces of sandstone 
or brickbats is the best, being well calculated to absorb a supply of water, 
w^hich will be given out to the plants as they require it. Indeed, it 
is a good practice to mix a quantity of similar materials along with the 
soil in which the plants are to grow. 

The soil used by the best cultivators is what is called turf}^ peat, of 
rather a sandy nature, cut from the surface of a moor or common upon 
which water does not lie during any part of the year, and having the 
surface herbage and as large a portion of fibrous matter in it as possible. 
Such a soil seldom requires what is called sweetening or previous pre- 
paration, such as keeping for years piled up to rot, and being frequently 
turned over during that time. It is, if of good quality, fit for use as soon 
as it is brought from the common, requiring only to be cut into pieces 
about an inch square, and mixed with about one-third of broken pot- 
sherds, to render it still more capable of allowing the superfluous 
moisture to pass off. For it should be remembered that no species of 
Orchideae will thrive if stagnated water be allowed to remain about 
their roots. 

In potting, care should be taken that the plants be not set too deep ; it 
is better to place them almost on the surface, and to support them with 
sticks, to prevent their falling over, which may be done in a neat manner, 



FOTTIXG AXD SOIL. 



337 



and so as to be scarcely perceptible, by fastening the pseudo-bulbs to the 
stick, which need not rise above their tops. Care should also be taken 
in potting that the fleshy, tender roots be not broken, and also that the 
turfy mould be laid over them in rather an open, loose manner, to allow 
the roots to find an easy passage through it, as well as the superabundant 
moisture to escape. Many species of Orchideae like to be planted on the top 
of a Uttle pile or hillock, as it were, formed of turfy matter, considerably 
above the top of the pot, from whence they will send down thek roots in 
quest of nourishment, while the crown or main body of the plant remains 
high and dry, and, therefore, safe from the effects of damp. 

Some species prefer to be potted in moss rather than in mould, and the 
best sort of moss for this purpose is half-decayed Sphagnum ; but the 
kinds which prefer this medium to grow in will succeed equally well if the 
roots be tied up in bundles of the same material, and laid on a shelf or 
suspended from the roof, taking care to keep them sufficiently moist by 
frequent waterings. Of those which appear to Hke this mode of treat- 
ment we may enumerate the following, but to them it is possible that 
many more may be added : — Vanda, Aerides, Vanilla, Sarcanthus, Saccalo-^ 
Mum, part of Epidendrum, part of Oncidium, RenantJiera, &c. 

Many species will grow beautifully if laid or fixed to a piece of rough- 
barked rotten wood, the rough trunks of palms, on artificial rock-work, 
&c., according to the fancy or taste of the owner, all that is required 
being, to secure a httle moss kept damp to their roots until they have at- 
tached themselves to the material upon which they are placed. The 
Vanilla and some others we have observed growing luxuriantly in this 
way/, but it is more a matter of taste, and of displaying their natural 
habits, than one of nursery culture, as the plants become so firmly at- 
tached to the material as not very readily to be separated fi'om it. The 
species which admit of this mode of culture, as-well as of the last, may 
be equally well grown in baskets of wicker or wire-work, and suspended 
from the roof, and in this state while in bloom are exceedingly beautiful 
ornaments to bring into the dramng-room, where they may remain 
uninjured while they remain in bloom. 

The late Mr. Gattley, who was. a very successful cultivator of some 
species, had a box twenty or thirty feet in length suspended from the 
rafters of his stove ; this box was filled with decayed wood, and the 
surface covered with green moss : in this the plants were set, and flourished 
exceedingly. Such a box, were it extended the whole length of a plant 
stove close to the back wall, and at a sufficient distance only from the 
glass to admit of head-room for the plants, would contain a xery pretty 

z 



338 



EPIPHYTAL TROPICAL ORCHIDE^. 



collection of Orchidese, and occupy but little space that could be useful to 
other plants. 

It would appear that the most minute and most delicate species thrive 
best when fastened to pieces of wood and suspended ; for in this way 
they are less liable to be injured by wood-lice, damp, or by being overrun 
by other fast-growing sorts. Of the genera which thrive best in this way 
we may mention Ornithoce])haluSy Stelisy Octomeria, Trizeuwis, Pleuro- 
thalUs, Fernandesia, &c. 

A few of the most rapid-groAving kinds, particularly those with long 
pendulous branches, like some of the Dendrobiums, cultivated in baskets 
or pots, and suspended from the roof, give the house a very handsome 
appearance ; but they should not be placed over those deUcate ones which 
require little water, because the drip from them would injure those below. 

TEMPERATURE AND ATMOSPHERE. 

Various experiments and the result of practice appear to have suffici- 
ently established that a high temperature, and an atmosphere almost 
saturated with moisture, are essential requisites for the successful cultiva- 
tion of this tribe. It has been found that no temperature or soil A^iU sustain 
them in drought, and when warmth and humidity were supplied in sufficient 
abundance, soil was apparently of no importance. It may not be amiss 
to lay down here something hke positive data on this important point of 
culture, and, therefore we would say, that the mean temperature of the 
day should be about eighty-five degrees, and that of the night ten or fifteen 
degrees less ; the degree of humidity should be within a few degrees of 
saturation : this is to be understood as applying to them only during 
their season of growth. During their season of repose the heat should 
not exceed sixty-five degrees, nor be less than fifty-five degrees j while 
this low temperature is maintained, watering must be lessened in pro- 
portion, seldom giving any at the roots, or at least no more than will 
preserve the plants from perishing. The atmosphere during this period 
should also be kept dry ; and although many of the plants may appear of 
a yellowish cast and rather sickly appearance, this regimen is not to be 
deviated from, for when their season of growth arrives, if attended to, with 
abundance of heat, water, and room, they will not only grow much more 
luxuriantly, but flower better, than if they were kept in a state of constant 
excitement during the whole year. 

" High temperature and excessive humidity are together the only con- 
ditions essential to the well-being of these plants. The hottest countries. 



TEMPERATURE AND ATMOSPHERE. 



339 



if dry, and the dampest if cool, are destitute of them ; while there is no 
instance of a country, both hot and damp, in which they do not abound.'^ 
— Ency. Gard, 

In regard to the proper degree of temperature and atmosphere neces- 
sary for these plants, we find the following judicious remarks in Paxton's 
Magazine of Botany : — In the native habitats of these plants, the season 
of growth and flowering is that caUed the rainy season, at which time 
the temperature is high, and the humidity great. But the imitation of 
such a season in our hot-houses would be very Hkely to end in loss and 
disappointment : for although subjected to great humidity (indeed border- 
ing on saturation) in their native country, the situation they occupy in 
the trees prevents the possibihty of injury, except in a few instances ; 
whereas in our artificial climates the same means used would saturate 
them, and they would speedily disappear. To imitate to a limited extent 
the above chmate, may be done with benefit; therefore, during the 
season of growth, never allow the temperature of the house in which the 
plants are grown to be less than seventy-five degrees nor greater than 
ninety-five degrees by day, nor lower than sixty degrees or higher than 
seventy degrees by night. 

" It is also indispensable that the atmosphere of the house be kept moist 
in the day-time, particularly on sunny days : but towards evening allow 
the moisture to diy up, otherwise, when the temperature is decreased, if 
humidity remains to any great degree, we have found it invariably be- 
come injurious^ and to many small plants fatal : but in the morning 
increase the temperature, and when the house is hot pour water on the 
floor or other situations to fill the air with moisture.'' 

There are few of the Orchidese that require water at their roots : 
indeed, they seem impatient of it, and many plants of this tribe are lost 
in consequence of an undue apphcation of it, the humidity of the atmo- 
sphere in most cases being found sufficient. But when it is evident that 
water is required to be so applied, it should be administered by pouring it 
in hmited quantities round the edges of the pot, allowing as Uttle as 
possible to fall on the plant, excepting in the case of the robust-growing 
kinds, which wiU be rather benefited than otherwise by a moderate 
syringing over their tops. 

The following has been laid down by Mr. A. Scott, in a communication 
to Mr. Loudon, and pubhshed in the last edition of the Ency. of Gard. : — 
" The temperature of the stove should be kept while the plants are 
growing at about seventy degrees, but may be allowed to rise by the 
influence of the sun to eighty degrees, or more, according to the state of 

z 2 



310 



EPIPHYTAL TROPICAL OUCHIDE^. 



the weather. All the strong-growing and many of the handsome species 
will, if the plants of them be large> succeed and flower better in a low 
temperature, as will nearly all the terrestrial species. The plants may be 
syringed once a day in fine weather, and in very warai dry weather, a 
more frequent syringing, if it be done with care, will be of service to 
many of the species. As a general caution, be sparing of giving much 
water to the roots, and keep up a moist heat. During the winter months, 
the plants may be allowed to become more dry and cool, and this con- 
dition will conduce to the flowering of many of the species. If an excess 
of heat and moisture be allowed, it will cause the plants to produce roots 
of so dehcate a constitution as to be destroyed by the least declension of 
these elements. The condition of the atmosphere here [exotic nurseryl 
has been examined when it has been deemed to be in a congenial state, 
and then its temperature has been seventy-five degrees of Fahrenheit, 
and Leslie's hygrometer has generally indicated from twenty to thirty- 
five degrees of drjmess. The necessity of supplying moisture will de- 
pend upon such circumstances as the size of the house, the distance of 
the plants from the flues or hot-water pipes, the degree in which the 
temperature is affected by the action of the sun's heat, or by that of cold 
winds or other circumstances connected with the structm-e and aspect of 
the house. A sheltered, close, and humid stove is that which is most 
conducive to the health and growth of the Orchidese." 

Mr. Cooper, of Wentworth, one of the most successful cultivators of 
this tribe, and one of the longest standing, difi^ers from most other growers 
in respect to humidity, giving his plants no more than is usual to give the 
general collection of stove plants amongst which they grow. A more 
successful cultivator than Mr. Cooper is no where to be found, nor one 
more liberal in affording information to those who desire it. His speci- 
mens of Orchideae are truly magriificent, and some of them must be very 
old, Mr. Cooper and the late Mr. Cattley may be said to have been the 
first in this country who began collecting and cultivating this tribe of 
plants, and both succeeded in an eminent degree. 

PROPAGATION. 

The species of this tribe with long creeping stems, like Renanthera, 
Vanilla, &c., are increased by cutting the branches or stems into pieces, 
choosing those pieces which are furnished with roots ; these, if mossed 
round at their oase and placed in a proper atmosphere, will grow very 
freely. Others like the Catasetums, Oncidimns, &c.^ are furnished with 



PROPAGATIOX. 



341 



pseudo-bulbs, a term given by Dr. Lindley to those swellings on the 
stems, and Trhich, although differently constructed, are httle else than 
tme bulbs. Each of these has usually a bud upon it, and if sepai'ated 
from the mass of which it forms a part, ^vill produce another plant. 
Dividing the Orchideae should be as much avoided as possible, for next 
to having small or bad specimens to begin cultivation with, that of con- 
stantly cutting them into pieces with a view to increase them is the next 
worst practice that can be followed. 



The foU owing List of Ejnplnital Tropicc.l species would for ra a splendid collection, 
and are selected from the very choicest hinds. 

Aerides cdoratimi Lou—y?di\e of China, extremely fragrant. The A. cornutum 

of Bot. ]Mag-. is only a_ synonyme. 
Aeranthes ses quip et alls LindJ. — rNafive of jiladagascar ; a very splendid species. 

g-ranclitlora LindJ. — Also from T^Iadag-ascar ; highly ornamental. 
An^ulosa grancliliora Kth. — Native of South America.' 

siiperba. — Xative of Pern. 
Batemannia CoUep. — A new g-enns, of 2:reat beauty, named conjunctly after 
Joseph Bateman, "Esq., and his coUector/Mr. CoUey f a native of 
Demerara. 

Brassia candata LindJ. — Xative of the "West Indies : an elegant species, 
maciilata ?/■/?.— Xative of Jamaica : an eleg-aut species. 
Lanceana.— A new species, named after J. H. Lance, Esq., who dis- 
covered it in Demerara. 
Bra^avola nodosa. The Epldendrurn nodosum of Linn, and the Cymhidiurn 
nodosum cf Swartz. are only synommies. — X'ative of the West 
Indies ; very fragrant. 
cucnllaTa Also a native of the West Indies, particularly of 

Jamaica ; very fragrant. Both should have a place in eveiy coliec- 
tion. 

Cneio^yne pnnctnlata LindJ. i Both natives of the East Indies, and both equally 
Ti\Xi6.?i LindJ. Jbeantiliil; the latter is fragrant, 
fmibriata LindJ^. — X'ative of China. 

Catasetnm tridentatmn RooJi, — Xative of Trinidad. 
Claverins-i LindJ. — X'ative of Brazil, 
lioribnndum i/oo A', —Xative of Trinidad. 

lucidum. — The two lirst are supposed to be the same, only altered in 
appearance by cultivation. 
Cattleya labiata LindJ. ''\ 

Loddigesii LindJ. ^X'atives of South America, and ver^^ elegant. 

Forbesii LindJ. j 

crispa LindJ. — Xative of Rio, and considered the most splendid of the 
familv. 

Ceratochilus -randiHorus ^t^^^^th^es of Trinid^^ very hand- 

?r,cin-,.i- Tiurii > soffic. Thelattcr is the Sfanhopea insigms of 
msigms LindJ. J jjooker, and of many coUections. 
Cirrhoea TTaiTcana Lodd. — X'ative of Brazil. 

Loddigesii LindJ.— yRtiye country scarcely known ; both species are 
exceedingly beautiful. 
Cyrtopodinm Andefsonii JR. Brown.— y^tiye of the East Indies. 

AVoodfordii Bot. Mag. t Both natives of South America, and all three 
glutinosimi Mey. J worth the attention of the cuhivator. 
Dendrobinm speciosum Swartz. — X'ative of the wai'mer parts of Xew South 
Wales. 



342 



TERRESTRIAL TROPICAL ORCHIDEvE. 



Dendrobium Pierardi Ror. — Native of the East Indies. 

Calceolaria HooJi. — Native of the East Indies, 
pulchellum. — Native of Sylpet. 
moschatum WalUch. — Native of Pe^. 
long-icornu LbicU. — Native of Nepal. 

chrysanthum WaUich.—SdXive of Nepal; a splendid genus, and well 
deserving- the attention of cultivators. 
Epidendnim fragrans Swartz. — Native of Jamaica ; very fragrant, 
cuspidatum Lodd. — Native of the West Indies, 
nocturnum L. — Native of Jamaica ; fragrant at night, 
bicornutum. — Very fragrant during the day. 

odoratissimum. — Although almost destitute of beauty, its fragrance 

renders it desirable in every collection, 
ciliare L. — Native of the West Indies. 
Gongora atropurpurea HooTx. — Native of Trinidad and Demerara. 

speciosa Hook. — Native of Brazil. Both elegant flowering plants, and of 
easy culture. 

Maxillaria Harrisoniae i^??^?/.— Native of South America, 
racemosa Hook. — Native of South America, 
picta. 

tetragona. — Native of Brazil, exceedingly fragi'ant. 
aromatica. — Exceedingly fragrant. 
Monacanthus discobr | ^^.^ interesting species. 

Oncidium. — Of this beautiful genus it would be even difficult to make a selection ; 

they are all exceedingly worth cultivating, and are natives of the 

West Indies, Mexico, and Brazil. 
Ornithidium coccineum *S'a/. — Native of the West Indies. 

Renanthera coccinea Native of China, one of the most splendid of all 

Epiphytes. 

Rodriguezia secunda jfiT^^.— Native of South America. 
Sarcochilus falcatus R. Brown. — Native of New Holland. 
Saccolobium guttatum. — An interesting species. 
Sarcanthus paniculatus Native of China. 

praemorsus Lindl. — Native of the East Indies. 
Stanhopea insignis. — Native of Trinidad; a splendid species. 
Vanda Roxburgh^^^^^ | g^^^ ^^^i^.^^ China, elegant species. 

Zygopetalum Mackai ^oo^.— Native of Brazil. 

rostratum ^Too A-.— Native of Demerara. 



II. TERRESTRIAL TROPICAL ORCHIDEiE. 



POTTING AND SOIL. 

Much of what we have advanced when treating of tropical epiphytes is 
also apphcable to those which are terrestrial also. Both require a season 
of rest, and that season happens not to all species alike. A careful eye 
must be kept upon them, for many of the herbaceous kinds die down to 
the ground annually, and when that is observed, they should be removed 
to a cooler place, and kept very dry, to prevent them from becoming 
excited too soon. The winter is certainly the best time for this suspension 
of growth, but there will be some in all large collections which A^ill 
continue in growth at all seasons of the year. 



ORCHlDE^. 




EPIPHYTAL EXTRA-TROPICAL ORCHIDEiE. 



343 



In regard to potting, it is necessary to pay every attention to have them 
well drained, as they are more liable to suffer from an excess of damp 
than the epiphytal species, and a soil of turfy, sandy peat, with a small 
portion of mould of decayed tree leaves, is found to be best for them. 

In regard to temperature, the majority of them require the same as the 
epiphytal ones : there are a few exceptions in regard to this in the 
case of some Chinese species ; but these can be placed at the coldest end 
of the house. 



The following List includes most of the finest flowering species of this section, 

Aretliusa plicata ^?z<Zr.— Native of the East Indies. 
Bletia Tankervilliae R. Brown. — Native of China. 

florida R. Broivn.—NditiYQ of the West Indies, 
verecunda J?. Brown. — Native of the West Indies, 
speciosa JsT^^.— Native of Mexico, 
gracilis Lodd. — Native of Mexico, 
hyacintha R. Brown.— NdXiYQ of China. 
Bonatea speciosa Wild. — Native of the Cape of Good Hope. 
Calathea veratrifolia R. Broivn.—NBXive of the East Indies. 

sylvestris Lindl. — Native of Madagascar. 
Cymbidium aloifolium Swartz. — Native of the East Indies. 

longifolium Hook. — Native of the East Indies. 
Sinense Wild. — Native of China, very fragrant, 
ensifolium Sivartz.—Nditvve of China, very fragrant. 
Cypripedium venustum ^^^^ ^^^j^^^ „f j^,^p^j_ 

Diuris aurea >S^m.— Native of New South Wales. 
Eulophia guineensis R. Brotvn. — Native of Sierra Leone. 
Geodorum purpnreum R. Brown.— Native of the East Indies. 

citrinum Ho7't. Keic. — Native of the East Indies. 

dilatatum R. Brotvn. — Native of the East Indies. 
Habenaria alata Hook. — Native of the West Indies. 

dilatata Hook. — Native of the West Indies. 
Lissochilus speciosus R. Broivn. — Native of the Cape of Good Hope. 

lutea Swartz. — Native of the Cape of Good Hope. 
Neottia grandiflora ^Too A;. —Native of Rio Janeiro. 

picta Sims. — Native of Trinidad. 
Peristeria elata. — Native of Panama : the dove plant. 
Pelexia spiranthoides R. Broivn. — Native of the West Indies. 
Stenorhynchus orchioides Rich. — Native of Jamaica. 

speciosus iJicA.— Native of the West Indies. 



III. EPIPHYTAL, OR PARASITICAL, EXTRA-TROPICAL ORCHIDE^. 

The species which come under this head are as yet few in number, and 
those which we have selected will flourish in a well-regulated green- 
house, and hence be within the means of those who do not possess a 
stove, and are, at the same time, curious in having a few of these extra- 
ordinary plants in their collection. 



344 



TERRESTIIIAL EXTRA-TROPICAL ORCHIDE^. 



In regard to culture, it mil be understood that, being subjected to the 
mild temperature of the greenhouse, the supply of water must be much 
less than recommended for similar plants in the stove temperature. It is 
needless almost to remark, that the hottest part of the greenhouse is the 
best situation for them. 



List of Epiphytal or Parasitical Eoctra-tropical OrcJiidece, or such as may hf£ 
cultivated in a good Greenhouse. 

Vanda cruenta Lindl.—^dXvi^ of China. 

tessellata Lodd. — Native of China. 
Sarcanthus rostratus Lindl. — Native of China. 

succisus R. Broivn.—lsSatiYe of China. 
Epidendrum conopseum Bartr. — Native of Florida. 
Dendrobium cemulum R. Brown— Native of New South Wales. 

canaliculatum R. Brown. — Native of New Holland, 
undulatum R. Brown. — Native of New Holland, 
teretifolium R. Broivn.—^dXiwe of New Holland. 




IV. TERRESTRIAL EXTRA-TROPICAL ORCHIBE^. 



List of the best flowering Extra-tropical Terrestrial Ot'chidecCf or such as may he 
cultivated in a good Greenhouse. 

Disa grandiflora L. — Native of the Cape of Good Hope. 

cornuta Swartz. — Native of the Cape of Good Hope, 
lacera Sivartz. — Native of the Cape of Good Hope, 
flexuosa Swartz. — Native of the Cape of Good Hope. 
Pterygodium alatuni Swartz. — Native of the Cape of Good Hope. 
Satyrium carneum R. Browm. — Native of the Cape of Good Hope. 
Bonatea speciosa Wild. — Native of the Cape of Good Hope. 
Orchis longicornu Poir. — Native of Barbary. 
acuminata Z?e6^/. — Native of Barbary. 
undulata Biv. — Native of Sicily. 
Habenaria flava R. Brown.— NsitiYe of New Holland. 
Ophrys atrata Bot. Reg. — Native of Gibraltar, 

tenthredinifera TF?7^^.— Native of Barbary. 
lutea Hook. — Native of Spain. 
Goodyera discolor Bot. Reg.—NsitiYe of South America. 
Diuris am^ea Sm. — Native of New South Wales. 

maculata R. Brown. — Native of New Holland. 
Neottia australis Lindl. — Native of New Holland. 

^"'^''"'^^^pXeTi!-i!-r:}Both natives of New Holland. 

Arethusa bulbosa Hort. Jie?^;.— Native of North America. 
Calopogon pulchellus Hort. Kew. — Native of North America. 
Prasophyllum elatum R. Browti. — Native of New Holland. 

fimbriatum R. Brown. — Native of New Holland, 
striatum R. Brown.— l^^atiYe of New Holland. 
Acianthus fornicatus R. Brown. — Native of New HoUand. 
Pterostylis curta R. Brown ^ 

nutans R. Brown > Natives of New Holland, 
cucullata R. Brown } 

'^<'''''^'^°*"rg4u^faiX»jB«t'> -tives of New Holland. 



NEPENTHES DISTILLATORIA. 



345 



Dipodium punctatum R. -B,"o?«;?.— Xative of Xew Holland. 
Eaiopliia streptopetala Bof. Ref/. — Native of the Cape of Good Hope, 
ensata Bot. Reg. — Native of the Cape of Good Hope. 

Some of these are by no means plentiful in the country : many of tliem, 
however, are, and most may be, procm'ed from their native countries 
without much difficulty. AYe have lately received, through the kindness 
of Thomas Keer Short, Esq., of Marten Hall, several very rare and 
curious species of the above, as well as some others, which may prove new 
to the collections in this country. 

The Petrostylis and PrasopJiijllum requhes rather strong, rich loam 
and shade : the Diuris a hght, sandy soil, but rather rich, and the 
Caladenia will do in the same. You must be cautious not to over-water 
them, nor give them heat, as they will not bear it. I grow mine in a 
cold frame, carefully excluding the frost." — Extract of a Letter from 
Mr. Short. 

The Orchidese House appears to be the most proper habitation for that 
most singular of plants the Chinese Pitcher plant {N'epenthes distillatoria) 
as well as its ally the Nepenthes phyllamphora, Pitcher leaf. They are 
natives of China and the East Indies, and are of great rarity and of 
difficult culture, few having a proper place of accommodation for them. 
They requhe a high temperature and a humid atmosphere, and probably 
a considerable degree of shade. They are propagated by seeds, which 
should be sown as soon as ripe in a pot filled about half way up with 
small stones mixed with moss, over which should be placed two or three 
inches of moss, and about half an inch of finely sifted mould to form a 
smooth surface on which to sow the seeds. As the seeds ars very small, 
they should not be covered with mould, but should have a bell-glass 
placed over them, and the pots placed in a temperature of about seventy 
or eighty degrees of heat. The pots should be set in a pan of water kept 
filled, which, by capillary attraction, renders the contents sufficiently 
moist for the pm-pose of vegetation. When the plants have attained the 
height of an inch or two they should be carefully transferred to single 
pots, but these should be of considerable size, that the plants may not 
require shifting into a larger, as that cannot be done without danger. 
As the plant extends in length it should be supported by a trellis, or 
suspended from the rafters of the stove. 



346 



SELECT LIST OF STOVE ORCHIDE.E. 



As the colours in this ex'traordinarv order of plants vary so much according to 
the state the flower may be in, in regard to culture and age, and as few of them 
are of one colour, ice have arranged them in the order in which the colour most 
predominates in them. 



WHITE. 



Two-coloured Goodyera. ( Goodyera 
discolor.) Flowers in November and 
December, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

Rival Dendi'obium. ( Dendrohium 
cemulum. ) Flowers in April and 
May, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Pursed Dendrobium. {Dendrobium 
crimienatum.) Flowers in April and 
May, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Fringed Epidendrum. {Epidendrum 
ciltare.) Flowers from March to 
Aug-List, in turfy peat. Division of 
the plant. 

Night-smelling Epidendi*um. {Epi- 
dendrum nocturnum.) Flowers from 
September to October, in turf>^ peat. 
Division of the plant. 

T\>'0-horned Epidendrum. {Epiden- 
drum bicornutum.) Flowers from 
September to October, in turfy peat. 
Division of the plant. 

Falcate Angraecum. {Angracum fal- 
catum.) FloM'ers from November to 
December, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

Veratrum-leaved Calanthe. {Calanthe 
veratrifolia.) Flo^'v^rs in June and 



1 July, in turf>- peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Drooping Caelog^Tie. {delogyne flac- 
cida.) Flowers from February to 
March, in turfy peat. Division of 
I the plant. 

Painted Neottia. ( Neottia picta. ) 
Flowers in April and June, in turty 
peat. Division of the plant. 

Tall Neottia. {Xeottia elata.) Flow- 
ers from April to July, in turfy peat. 
Division of the plant.' 

Three - winged fruited C}*mbidiimi. 
{Cymbidium tripterum.) Flowers in 
June and July, in turfy peat. Divi- 
sion of the plant. 

Hooded Brasavola. {Brasavola cucul- 
lata.) Flowers from June to Sep- 
tember, in turfy peat. Division of 
the plant. 

Ai'omatic Vanella. ( Vanella aro- 
matica.) Flowers from June to Au- 
gust, in rotten sticks and moss. 
Cuttings. 

Smooth - leaved Vanella. ( Vanella 
planifolia.) Flowers in April and 
June* in rotten sticks and moss. 
Cuttings. 

Cm-led-flowered Cattleya. {Cattleya 
crispa.) Flowers in xiugust, in tm'fy 
peat. Division of the plant. 



GREEN. 



Great - flowered Neottia. ( Neottia 
grandiflora.) Flowers from April to 
June, in tm-f>^ peat. Division of the 
plant. 



Woodford's Bletia. {Bletia Wood- 
fordii.) Flowers in June and July, 
in turfy peat. Division of tlie 
plant. 



SELECT LIST OF STOVE ORCHIDEiE. 



347 



Bitten Sarcantlius. {Sarcanthus pra- 
morsits.) Flowers from May to Au- 
gust, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Xiphium-leaved Cymbidium. {CymM- 
dium xipMifolia. ) Flowers from 
March to August, in turfy peat. Di- 
vision of the plant. 

Crested Catasetum, {Catasetum C7ns- 
tatum.) Flowers from October to 
November, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

One-leaved Epidendrum. Epidendrum 
monophyllum. ) Flowers in Decem- 
ber, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Lizard-head Pleurothallis. {Pleuro- 
thalUs saurocephalus.) Flowers in 
April and May, in turfy peat. Di- 
vision of the plant. 

Lurid Catasetum. ( Catasetum luri- 
dum.) Flowers from March to May, 
in turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Lurid Oncidium. (Oncidiumluridum.) 
Flowers from February to March, in 
turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Dwarf Oncidium. ( Oncidium pumi- 
lum.) Flowers in June and July, in 
turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Carthaginian Oncidium. ( Oncidium 
carthaginense.) Flowers in May and 
June. Division of the plant. 

Plantain-leaved Prescotia. {Prescotia 
plantaginea.) Flowers in April and 



August, in turfy peat. Division of 
the root. 

Handsome Ladies' slipper. {Cypri- 
pedium venustum.) Flowers in July 
and August, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

Admirable Ladies' Slipper. ( Cypri- 
pedium insigne.) Flowers in July 
and August, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

Diffuse Epidendrum. {Epidendrum 
diffusum.) Flowers from September 
to November, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

Large-flowered Aeranthus. {Aeranthus 
grandijiora.) Flowers in June and 
July, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Ophiogloss-like Stelis. (Stelis ophio- 
glossoides.) Flowers in May and 
June, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Small-flowered Stelis. (Stelis micran- 
tha.) Flowers from November to 
December, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

Fringed Maxillaria. {Maxillaria ci- 
liata.) Flowers from April to July, 
in turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Green-flowered Monachanthus. (Mo- 
nachanthus discolor, var. viridi- 
florus.) Flowers in June and July, 
in turfy peat. Division of the plant. 



Recurved Gomeza. ( Gomeza recurva. ) 
Flowers from May to July, in turfy 
peat. Division of the plant. 

Parker's Maxillaria. {Maxillaria Par- 
kerii.) Flowers from September to 
October, in turfy peat. Division of 
the plant. 

Racemose Maxillaria. ( Maxillaria 
racemosa.) Flowers in May and 
June, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Aromatic Maxillaria. ( Mcxillaria 
aromatica.) Flowers from May to 
June, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Lofty Dove-flower. {Peristeria elata.) 
Flowers from September to October, . 
in turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Lance's Pleurothallis. {Pleurothallis 
Lanceana.) Flowers in August, in 
turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Pale-flowered Maxillaria. {Maxillaria 
pallidiflora. ) Flowers from Sep- 
tember to October, in turfy peat. 
Division of the plant. 

Mrs. Harrison's Maxillaria. {Maxil- 
laria Harrisoniae.) Flowers from Sep- 



tember to October, in turfy peat. 
Division of the plant. 

Anderson's Cyrtopodium. {Cyrtopo- 
dium Ajidersonii. ) Flowers from 
May to August, in turfy peat. Divi- 
sion of the plant. 

Golden-flowered Chysis. {Chysis au- 
rea.) Flowers in July and August, 
in turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Showy Lissochilus. {Lissochilus spe- 
ciosus.) Flowers in May and June, 
in turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Yellow Lissochilus. {Lissochilus lu- 
teus.) Flowers from April to July, 
in turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Tallest Oncidium. {Oncidium altissi- 
mum.) Flowers from August to Sep- 
tember, in turfy peat. "Division of 
the plant. 

Flexuous Oncidium. {Oncidium flexu- 
osum.) Flowers in June and July, in 
turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Cebollet's Oncidium. {Oncidium Ce- 
hollctii.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 



348 



THE ORCHIDE^ HOUSE. 



Dotted-flowered Coelo:?yne. {Ccelogyne 
punctulenta.) Flowers from July to 
August, in turfy peat. Division of 
the plant. 

Shining-leaved Coslogyne. {Ccelogyne 
nitida.) Flowers in May and Au- 
gust, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Fringed Dendrobium. (DendroMum 
fimbriatum.) Flowers from April to 
June, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Many-flowered Dendrobium. {Den- 
drobium densiflorum.) Flowers in 
June and July, in turfy peat. Divi- 
sion of the plant. 

Pubescent Eria. {Eria puhescens.) 
Flowers from March to May, in turfy 
peat. Division of the plant. 

Grass-leaved Octomeria. {Ocfomeria 
graminifoUa.) Flowers in June and 
July, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Serrated-leaved Octomeria. {Octomeria 
serratifolia.) Flowers from Novem- 
ber to December, in turfy peat. Di- 
vision of the plant. 



Many -flowered Vanda. {Vanda mul- 
tiflora.) Flowers in June and July, 
in turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Bearded Oncidium. {Oncidium harha- 
tum.) Flowers in April and May, in 
turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Downy Oncidium. {Oncidium puhe- 
scens.) Flowers in July and August, 
in turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Showy Gongora. {Gongora speciosa.) 
Flowers in June and July, in turfy 
peat. Division of the plant. 

Sweet-scented Epidendrum. {Epiden- 
drum fragrans.) Flowers from Oc- 
tober to "November, in turfy peat. 
Division of the plant. 

Panicled Sarcanthus. ( Sarcanthus 
paniculatus.) Flowers in May and 
August. Division of the plant. 

Cylindric-leaved Sarcanthus. {Har can- 
thus teretifolius.) Flowers from No- 
vember to December, in turfy peat. 
Division of the plant. 

Elegant Fernandesia. ( Fernandesia 
elegans.) Flowers in June and July, 
in turfy peat. Division of the plant. 



Aloe-leaved Cymbidium. {Cymhidium 
aloifolium.) Flowers in May and 
June, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Sword-leaved Cymbidium. {Cymbidium 
ensifolium.) Flowers from June to 
October, in turfy peat. Division of 
the plant. 

Chinese Cymbidium. ( Cymbidium 
sinense.) Flowers from September 
to October, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

Lurid Angraecum. {Angi'cecum luridum.) 
Flowers from September to Novem- 
ber, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant, 

^iral Epidendrum. ( Epidendrum 
cocldeatum.) Flowers from February 
to December, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

Brown Epidendrum. ( Epidendrum 
fuscatum, ) Flowers in June and 
July, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Starred Eria. {Ei-ia stellata.) Flowers 
from February to March, in turfy 
peat. Division of the plant. 

Spider-like Air-plant. {Aerides arach- 



nites.) Flowers from September to 
October, in turfy peat. Division of 
the plant. 
Two-spurred Corysanthes. {Corysan- 
thes bicalcarata.) Flowers in July and 
August, in turfy peat. Division of the 
root. 

Fringed Corysanthes. ( Corysanthes 
jimhriata.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in turfy peat. Division of the 
root. 

Golden-Brown Maxillaria. {Maxillaria 
aureo-fulva.) Flowers in June and 
July, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Three-toothed Catasetum. {Catasetum 
tridentatum.) Flowers in July and 
August, in turfy peat. Division of 
the plant. 

Bundle-flowered Catasetum. ( Cata- 
setum floribundum.) Flowers from 
October to November, in turfy peat. 
Division of the plant. 

Crisp-flowering Oncidium. {Oncidium 
crispum.) Flowers from September 
to October, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 



Dark purple Gongora. {Gongora atro- 
purpurea.) Flowers in June and 
July, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 



Great-flowered Ceratochilus. {Cerato- 
chilus grandiflorus.) Flowers from 
July to October, in turfy peat. Di- 
vision of the plant. 



SELECT LIST OF STOVE ORCHIDEiE. 



a49 



Noble Ceratocliilus. {Ceratochilus in- 
signis.) Flowers from July to Octo- 
ber, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Sbowy Dendrobium. ( Dendrobium 
spehiosum.) Flowers from June to 
Aug-ust, in turfy peat. Division of 
tbe plant. 

Modest Bletia. (Bletia verecunda.) 
Flowers from January to IMay, in 
turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Florid Bletia. {Bletia Jlorida.) Flowers 



in July and August, in turfy peat. 

Division of the plant. 
Guinea Bletia. {Bletia guineens-is.) 

Flowers from February to Marcb, in 

turfy peat. Division of the plant. 
Hyacinth-like Bletia. ( Bletia hya- 

cintkina.) Flowers from March to 

June, in turfy peat. Division of the 

plant. 

Shepherd's Bletia. {Bletia Hhepherdii.) 
Flowers in June and July, in turfy 
peat. Division of the plant. 



RED. 



Side-flowering- Roderignezia. {Roderi- 
guezia secunda.) Flowers from Sep- 
tember to October, in turfy peat. 
Division of the plant. 

Rose-like Eria. {Eria rosea.) Flowers 
from November to December, in 
tui'fypeat. Division of the plant. 

Side-flowering" Epidendrum. {Epiden- 
drum secundum.) Flowers from June 



to August, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

Long-stalked Epidendrum. {Epiden- 
drum elongatum.) Flowers in May 
and August, in tui'fy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

Bloody-flowered Vanda. {Vanda «*w- 
enta.) Flowers from August to Sep- 
tember, in turfy peat. ""Division of 
the plant. 



SCARLET. 



Blood-coloured Broughtonia. {Brough- 
tonia sanguinea.) Flowers in June 
and July, in turfy peat. Division of 
the plant. 

Showy Stenorhynchus. ( Stenorhyn- 
clms speciosa.) Flowers in April and 



June, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Scarlet Renanthera. {Renanthera cod- 
eine a.) Flowers in March and May, 
in rotten wood and moss. Cutting's. 



PINK. 



Woodford's Cyrtopodimn. ( Cyrto- 
podium Woodfordii.) Flowers from 
October to December, in turfy peat. 
Division of the plant. 

Secund Dendrobium. {Dendrobium 
secundum.) Flowers in June and 
July, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Intermediate Cattleya. {Cattleya in- 
termedia.) Flowers in April and 
May, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Forbes's Cattleya. {Cattleya Forbesii.) 
Flowers in July and August, in turfy 
peat. Division of the plant. 

Pallid Bletia. {Bletia pallida.) Row- 
ers from February to March, in 
turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Guinea Eulophia. {Eulophia guine- 
enms.) Flowers from May to July, 



in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Spotted Angraecum. {Angrcecum macu- 
latum.) Flowers from October to 
November, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

Pierard's Dendrobium. {Dendrobium 
Pierardi.) Flowers from iNIarch to 
May, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Slipper Dendrobium. { Dendrobium 
calceolaria.) Flowers from April to 
June, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Elliptic Epidendrum. ( Epidendrmn 
elUpticum.) Flowers from March to 
August, in tm'fy peat. Division of 
the plant. 

Fi'agrant Air-plant. ( Aeride^ fra- 
grans.) Flowers in June and July, 
'in turty peat. Cuttings. 



350 



THE ORCHIDE^ HOUSE. 



VIOLET. 



Dark-lipped Cattleya. {Cattleya la- 
biata.) Flowers in July and August, 
in turfy peat. Division of the plant. 



SPOTTED AND 



Mackay's Zygopetalum. {Zygopetalum 
Mackii. ) Flowers in June and 
July, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Beaked Zygopetalum. {Zygopetalum 
rostratum.) Flowers in September 
and October, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

Shell-lipped Zygopetalum. ( Zygo- 
petalum cochleare.) Flowers from 
September to October, in turfy peat. 
Division of the plant. 

Horned Oncidium. {Oncidium corni- 
gerum.) Flowers in June and July, 
"in turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Butterfly Plant. {Oncidiutn papilio.) 
Flowers from March to May, in turfy 
peat. Division of the plant. 

Neat Oncidium. {Oncidium pulchel- 
lum.) Flowers in July and August, 
in turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Triangular-leaved Oncidium. ( On- 
cidium triquetrum.) Flowers from 
September to October, in turfy peat. 
Division of the plant. 

Spotted-flowered Brassia. {Brassia 
maculata.) Flowers in June and 
July, in turfy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Long-tailed Brassia. {Brassia can- 
data.) Flowers in June and July, in 
turfy peat. Division of the plant. 

Rostrate Sarcanthus. ( Sarcanthus 
rostratus.) Flowers from November 
to December, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 



Loddiges' Cattleya. {Cattleya Lod- 
digesii.) Flowers in July and August, 
in turfy peat. Division of the plant. 



VARIEGATED. 



Lopped-oiF Sarcanthus. ( Sarcanthus 
succisus.) Flowers from November 
to December, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

Orange-coloured Bifrenaria. ( Bifre- 
naria aurantiaca.) Flowers from Sep- 
tember to October, in turfy peat. 
Division of the plant. 

Deppe's Maxillaria. ( Maxillaria 
Deppii.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in tui'fy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Bearded Fly-wort. {Myanthus barba- 
tus, var. labello albo.) Flow^ers in 
November and December, in turfy 
peat. Division of the plant. 

Spotted Cyrtopodium. {Cyrtopodium 
punctatum.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in tm'fy peat. Division of the 
plant. 

Ivory-lipped Stanhopea. {Stanhopea 
eburnea.) Flowers from September 
to October, in turfy peat. Division 
of the plant. 

Coriaceous-leaved Epidendrum. {Epi- 
dendrum coriaceum.) Flowers in 
June and July, in turfy peat. Divi- 
sion of the plant. 

Acute-petaled Epidendrum. {Epiden- 
drum stenopetalum.) Flowers in June 
and July, in turfy peat. Division of 
the plant. 

Thick-leaved Epidendrum. {Epiden- 
drum crassifolium.) Flowers from 
September to October, in turfy peat, 
i Division of the plant. 



351 



THE AQUARIUM. 



This species of plant-liouse has hitherto been met with only in establish^ 
ments of the first order ; bat as there are many extremely beautiful and 
singular plants which requu'e to be grown in water, and as their culture 
is perhaps the most simple of any, we think it proper to aUude to them 
here. An Aquarium will afford a great source of amusement to those 
who are fond of plants, and whose avocations require their absence for 
considerable periods, as the plants grown in it do not require to be 
watered hke other plants, nor frequently shifted or re-potted, but wiU 
continue to flomish for months during summer, with httle other care 
than that of yentHation, which any domestic may be taught to do in the 
absence of the proprietor. 

To those interested in the cultivation of this tribe of plants, the 
following remarks may be deemed useful. The temperature should be 
maintained from fifty-five to sixty-five degrees by artificial means, but by 
solar heat it may be allowed to rise to ninety degrees. All aquatics 
should be grown in pots or tubs, because many of their roots are of the 
tuberous kind, and some of them require to be taken out of the water 
during their season of rest. Nevertheless, these should be, dming their 
growing season, set in a cistern of water, both to afi'ord a sufficient supply 
of food to them by their roots, as well as to admit of the leaves of the 
floating kinds resting on the surface of the water. 

Aquatics require the greatest possible degree of hght : a house, there- 
fore, that presents the largest surface of glass, must be looked upon as 
the most proper, nor should they be placed at too great a distance from the 
glass, on which account a commodious pit or low span-roofed house is 
the best kind of structure for the purpose. Such a house as is repre- 
sented in the annexed diagram would have many advantages, and should 
be constructed in the following manner. The length, as in all similar 



352 



THE AQUARIUM. 



cases, must be determined by local circmnstances ; but we should say one 
of t^Yenty-^iye feet by twelve feet in breadth wotdd contain a very full 
collection of these plants. The height in the middle should not exceed 
eight feet, and the passage should occupy the centre, having a cistern of 
slate, iron, or stone on each side, four and a half feet broad each, and two 
feet deep, excepting at one end, where it should be two and a half or 
three feet deep for the reception of some of the stronger growing kinds, 
that require to. be grown in large pots or tubs, and whose foliage floats 
on the surface. 




These cisterns should be fui*nished vdth. a waste pipe at one end for 
the purpose of drawing off the water when necessary*, either entirely or 
partially, to admit of a constant fresh supply, which is very necessary in 
the cultivation of these plants ; and if this supply can be conveniently 
brought by a pipe from some other cistern or source, it will render the 
whole more complete. 

In regard to heating an Aquarium, hot water is certainly the best, and 
for this pm'pose the pipes should be laid within the cistern, as shovm in 
the sketch, by which means the water in it will be rendered tepid, and 
give out its heat to the atmosphere of the house. The top pipe, however, 
should not be more than half covered vdth water, which will allow a 
considerable escape of heat from its upper surface into the house. In 
the cistern through which the hot-water pipe runs, should be grown the 
plants na.tives of the warmer parts of the tropics, and in the other, which 
will be much cooler, the plants from more temperate chmates, thus, as it 
were, combining a receptacle both for what are usually called stove and 



GEXERAL MANAGEMENT. 



353 



also greenhouse aquatics. The furnace and boiler might be placed under 
the cistern, and the fire managed from without, by merely sinking 
a space sufficient to admit of the operator when attending to the 
fire ; this, at all other times, could be easily concealed, and thereby 
a nuisance be avoided, which furnaces and hot-house fire-places cer- 
tainly are. 

There are few examples of this kind in Britain : the only one we have 
seen being that erected many years ago at White Knights, for the Duke 
of Marlborough, by Todd, and described by him in his work on hot-house 
architecture. That was, however, a very imperfect model. Cultivators 
in general have grown their aquatics in pits, and in this way the late 
Kent, of Clapton, was eminently successful ; but by far the majority con- 
tent themselves by placing them in tubs of water, and setting them in 
the plant stoves — most frequently in the part most remote from the glass, 
and consequently the darkest : hence the few specimens of these plants 
to be seen even in good collections, and the want of success in their cul- 
tivation, so much complained of. No plants are more easily cultivated if 
placed in a proper position in regard to hght and heat : these are the 
two conditions upon which success depends, for the nature of the soil 
they are grown in is, we think, of Uttle importance. 

;Many of the most beautiful aquatic plants may be very successfully 
grown in large tubs or small cisterns, placed in a pit of the ordinary 
description, where a regular Aquarium cannot be afforded ; and this pit 
might be heated by dung linings, or still better by hot-water, introduced 
from a boiler, which might be employed in heating several other similar 
structures. ^Ir. Loudon has proposed a very simple and convenient cistern 
for growing Nymphaeas and other low-growing aquatics, by elevating it 
upon pillars in the open air, and when the season of forcing commences, 
to be covered with a hot-bed frame of the same dimensions, and surrounded 
by linings of hot dung. By this means any requhed degree of heat might 
be produced during the flowering season : and if it were desired to 
keep any of the plants in a growing state during wiuter, the hnings and 
frame could be continued. If not, most of them, by being carefuUy pro- 
tected from frost, would safely remain in a dormant state till spring. 

GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF AaUATIC PLANTS. 

The genera which chiefly claim admission into the Aquarium on account 
of the beauty of their flowers, are the family NymphcBaj Limnocharis, 
Menyanthus, Pontederia, Nelumhium, Aponogeton, Euryale^ &c., and as 
a plant historically interesting, the Cyperus papyrus, and the rice plant, 

A A 



354 



THE AQUARIUM. 



Oryza sativa. Almost all aquatic plants are readily propagated by seeds, 
or by parting their roots. The seeds of aquatic plants should be sown as 
soon as they are ripe, for, if we except NelumMum speciosum, they lose their 
vegetative powers if kept long in the air ; and when it becomes necessan- 
to transport them to a distance, they are usually sent in bottles of water. 
In this w^y Otto of Berhn received the seeds of Zizania aquatica, or 
Canada rice, sent from that country to Europe. Seeds of aquatics are 
best sown in the water, and in due time they will vegetate and grow 
without much further trouble. 

The genera LimnocJiariSy Menyanthus, Pontederia, and Aponogeton, 
propagate freely by parting their roots, which becomes a measure of 
necessity, on account of the rapidity of their growth : the two latter are 
comparatively hardy, and will sometimes survive the winter, if mild, in 
the open ponds. They may also be successfully cultivated if planted in 
deep pans or tubs, having nine inches or a foot of strong, rich loam in 
their bottom, and filled to the depth of a foot or eighteen inches with 
water, which should be occasionally changed. These pans or tubs may 
be placed on the top of a flue near the light in any warm greenhouse or 
stove, where there is not a regular Aquarium, and in such situations they 
will flower freely. 

The genus Nymphcea, having tuberous roots, should be examined an- 
nually in autumn, the small ones removed, and the larger ones kept for 
flowering ; these roots should be planted in small pots of the size called 
large sixties, one root in each, and kept dormant till spring by being 
kept rather dry. In ^larch they should be forced into a vegetating state 
by the apphcation of water and a httle degree of heat, and as soon as 
they have sprung about half an inch should be planted either into the 
bottom of the cistern in the Aquarium, or into deep pans or tubs, in a 
rich, light, loamy soil, to be placed near the light in the plant stove. The 
full depth of water should not be let upon them at first : a few inches 
only over their roots is sufficient, but as they extend in growth add more 
water progressively until the vessel containing them be full. When the 
Nymphseas begin to vegetate, care must be taken that they experience no 
check in theu' growth either by a diminished supply of water or heat, or 
other causes ; for if such be the case they will not flower, but form bulbs 
at the root instead. They should, if in a proper condition, show flowers 
in about a month or five vreeks after planting, and if so will continue in 
flower most of the season. As soon as the plants have done flowering, 
and have perfected their seeds, they die down to the bottom, and form 
bulbs in the soil in which they ai'e planted. It is at this period that the 



NYMPH^A, EURYALE, XELUMBIUM. 355 

separation of their root should take place, when they may be potted as 
above. Some species seed freely, and when such is the case the seeds, 
if a great supply of plants be desired, should be so^vn immediately after 
they are ripe, in pots of light, rich mould, and immediately plunged into 
water to the depth of two or three inches. 

X. STELLATA 

Seeds freely, but does not propagate very readily at the root ; it is, there- 
fore, better to treat it as an annual. ^Mien the seeds vegetate, they 
should be transplanted into separate pots, for one plant is quite sufficient 
for a small pot, which it will soon fill with roots, and require to be planted 
out in the cistern to expand its ramifications, and gain strength enough 
to produce its beautiful flowers. As the foUage of most aquatics floats 
on the surface of the water, and presents a broad horizontal surface, 
it becomes necessary to water them, both to remove the dust and filth 
which will be deposited upon them, and also to refresh them, hke other 
plants. 

EURYALE, 

Of which there is only one species, is, strictly speaking, only an annual 
plant ; its seeds should be sown as soon as procured, whether by import- 
ation or by its culture at home ; for few aquatic plants will vegetate if 
their seeds are long kept out of the water : the Nelumhimn is probably 
the only exception. The seeds of Euryale should be so^-n in rich, loamy 
soil, and plunged about two inches under the surface of the water in the 
cistern ; when the plants have vegetated, they should be separated, and 
planted singly into pots, to be afterwards planted out in the cistern in 
the Aquarium, or in a large tub or pan plunged in the tan bed of a plant 
stove, but placed as near the Ught as possible. 

XELUMBIUM. 

This splendid plant was successfully cultivated by the late ^Mr. Kent, 
of Clapton ; he has detailed the substance of his mode of culture in the 
Hort. Soe. Transactions, vol. iii. p. 36, to the following effect : — " The 
Nelumbium is easily raised from seed, which retains its vegetative powers 
for fortA* years, and with every advantage, in a fair season, will produce 
blossoms the first summer. It is generally grown in large tubs, with a 
few inches depth of water over the surface of the mould, placed in the 
tan bed of the stove. By these means I raised a fine plant last year ; 

A A 2 



356 



THE AQUARIUM. 



the seed was sown in May, and threw up several flower buds, which did 
not come to perfection, but most probably would have done so had the 
seeds been sown two months earlier. The leaves produced were about 
two feet in diameter ; but the plant went off in the vdnter, notwith- 
standing it was treated in the manner heretofore found the most suc- 
cessful, which has been, to allow the tub to remain in the tan, and be- 
come nearly diy, giving it no more water than the other plants around 
it." By the above mode of culture we have seen this plant brought to 
flower, and produce its seeds in the fullest perfection. 

The following practical directions are from the pen of a contributor to 
the Gardener's Magazine^ and appear to us so simple and excellent that 
we will give the essence of the practice. 

" The seed is prepared for sowing by filing a small hole in the shell 
at the end opposite the point : it is then put into a basin of water, kept 
warm, and in about ten days it will have made its first leaf : it is then to 
be planted in a tub about three feet wide and eighteen inches deep, 
filled to about five inches of the top with mud. That part of the tub 
covered with water should be painted, to prevent the green Conferva 
from growing ; the mud should also be covered about an inch T\ith fine 
sand, for the same purpose. The water should be changed twice a week, 
and the sand slightly moved. The young leaves should be bent down 
to the surface of the sand by placing a small stone on them, until the 
stalk has grown long enough to remain out of the water. During the 
day the temperatiure should be kept up to about seventy-five or eighty 
degrees, but at night the house should be left open when the weather is 
not cold, as also sometimes on rainy days. Towards the middle of 
September they should be gradually inured to the open air, and left 
there without covering till the following spring, when they should be 
put into another tub about the beginning of May. 

" The late Mr. Stewart, of Valleyfield, used to flower this splendid 
plant in great perfection, by adopting a course of culture very difierent 
from that followed by most other cultivators. The tub in which his 
plants grew was plunged in the corner of a pine pit in a temperature 
during summer from sixty-five to ninety degrees, and even one hundred 
degrees, but in winter seldom above sixty degrees of Fahrenheit. During 
winter the plants received little water, the supply being gradually 
diminished from the time the plants flowered until they became almost 
dry, in which state they remained during winter. In spring water was 
increased, and as soon as the foliage had grown above the surface the 
old earth was carefully removed from round the roots, and replaced with 



CYPERUS PAPYRUS, ORYZA SATIVA. 



357 



strong, ricli loam. After this the tub was kept nearly full of -^ ater, to 
allow the leaves to float, and was thus maintained until they had risen 
between eighteen and twenty inches in height ; the water was then 
reduced, by allowing it gradually to escape through the staves, the top 
hoops being slackened on pui-pose, until it was lowered to nearly the 
surface of the mould. Fresh water was supphed every evening, and 
allowed thus to di'ain off dming the growth and flowering of the plants ; 
and as the leaves and flowers died away gradually, so was the water 
reduced, until the tub became nearly dry." 

CYPERUS PAPYRUS, OR PAPYRUS AXTiaUORUM. 

This plant is less ornamental in its flowering than any of the plants 
above treated of : it is also of much easier culture, requiring only to be 
planted in a cistern, deep pan, or tub, kept moist, and is readily increased 
by separation at the roots. 

ORYZA SATIVA 

Is more a plant of curiosity than beauty. Its seeds should be sown 
immediately after they are ripe, and immersed in water, for they soon 
lose their vegetative properties if left exposed to the air. 

All the aquaric plants we have treated of, with the exception of the 
Cyperus papyi^is, which attains too great a height, may be and are all cul- 
tivated successfully in pits and frames heated by dung linings. In this 
way the late Kent, of Clapton, the venerable curator of the Chelsea 
Botanical Gai'den, while gardener to J. Vere, Esq., of Kensington Gore, 
and others, have grown them, the plants being planted in small cisterns, 
deep tubs, and pans, plunged in tan ; and by this plan any person at all 
curious in such plants may flower them in great perfection. Indeed, the 
whole tribe seems to prefer a close, moist heat, such as that produced 
from fermentable matter, and to be placed near to the light, which is 
more readily effected in pits or frames than in houses generally. 

The Papynis antiquoimm is a plant of great antiquity, and afforded 
the material from which the ancient Egyptians made paper, " which was 
obtained from the pelhcle found between the flesh and the bark of the 
thick part of the stalk, ribbons of which were united till they formed 
the size required, and were then pressed and dried in the sun." 

For culture of Nepenthes distillatoria, see Orchide.e House. 



358 



ELECT LIST OF STOVE AQUATICS. 



BLUE. 



Kidney-leaved Heteranthera. {Hefer- 
anthera reniforme.) Flowers in July 
and Aug-ust, in rich mould. Suckers. 

Blue Water-lily. {Xympluea cceridea.) 
Flowers from June to September, in 
rich mould. Division of the roots. 

Indian Water-lily. (Xi/})iphcea cpanea.) 
Flowers from June to Septeniber, in 
rich mould. Division of the root. 

Strict Herpestris. {Herpestris stricta.) 
Flowers in August, in rich mould. 
Division of the plant. 

Jamaica Sacred Bean. ( yehanhium 
jamaicense.) Flowers from June to 
August, in rich mould. Di^sision of 
the'root. 

Whited Thalia. ( TliaUa dealbafa. ) 
Flowers in July and August, in peat 
and loam. Division of the root. 

Blue Pontederia. (Pontederia azurea.) 



Flowers in July and August, in rich 
mould. Offsets. 

Spreading Pontederia. ( Pontederia 
dilotata.) Flowers in May and June, 
in rich mould. Division'of the root. 

Lanceolate Pontederia. {Pontederia 
lanceolata.) Flowers from Augrust 
to October, in rich mould. Di^-ision 
of the root. 

Thick-petioled Pontederia. ( Ponte- 
deria crassipes.) Flowers from Sep- 
tember to October, in rich mould. 
Offsets. 

Star-flowered Water-lily. (Xijmphtea 
stellata.) Flowers from June to Sep- 
tember, in peat and loam. Roots. 

Acute-leaved Water-lily. {Xi/mp/Kea 
a cut i folia.) Flowers in July .and 
September, in peat and loam. Roots. 



T^vo-spiked Aponogeton. {Aponogefon 
distachyon.) Flowers in ]May and 
June, in rich mould. Offsets. 

Narrow-leaved Aponog^eton. {Apono- 
geton ajig list if alia.) Flowers from 
April to September, in peat and loam. 
Offsets. 

Venus' ny-trap. {Dioncea ^luscipida.) 
Flowers 'in July and August, in peat 
and loam, mixed with half-rotten 
spagnum or other mosses. Offsets. 

Ample-leaved Water-lily. {Xi/mpluea 
ampla.) Flowers from June to Sep- 
tember, in peat and loam. Roots. 

Few - flowered Sun-dew. ( Brosera 
pauciflora.) Flowers in July and 
AugTist, in peat. Seeds. 

Stemless Sun-dew. {Drosera acaulis.) 
Flowers from June to August, in 
peat. Seeds. 

Binate-leaved Sun-dew. {Drosera hi- 



[ITE. 

I nafa.) Flowers from June to Augnst, 
I in peat. Seeds. 

i FoUicled Cephalotus. ( CejjJialotiis 
! foUicidaris.) Flowers in June, in 
j peat. Seeds. 

j Cliarmiug Water - lily. ( Xymjyhtea 
i blanda.) Flowers from June to Sep- 
I t ember, in rich mould. Division of 
the root. 

j Eatable Water-lily. {Xyjnphaa edu- 
1 lis.) Flowers from June to Septem- 
: ber, in rich mould. Division of the 
t root. 

Heart -leaved Water-plantain. {Alis-ma 
cordifolia.) Rowers in July and 
August, in rich mould. Di-^ision of 
the plant. 

Triangular Desmanthus. {Des^matithits 
triquetrus.) Flowers in July and 
August, in rich mould. Division of 
the^plant. 



SELECT LIST OF STOVE AQUATICS, 



359 



Indian Villarsia. (Vinarsia indica.) j 
ilowers from June to September, in | 
rich mo aid. Suckers. j 

Curl-leaved Aponog-eton. {Aponogeton | 
crisjmm.) Flowers from June to Sep- i 
tember, in rich mould. Offsets. j 

Indian Damasonium. [Damasominn \ 
indicum.) Flowers from July to Sep- 
tember, in rich mould. Seeds. 

Acute-leaved Arrow-head. (Sagiffaria 
acuTifoUa.) Flowers in June and 
July,' in rich mould. Division of the \ 
plant. i 

Victoria Regina, Flowers in its na- : 
tive country, British Guiana, in i 
January. From all we at present ; 
know of this extraordinary aquatic, i 
it is probable that its cultYa-e will ! 
be the same as that of Eiirjiale ferox, \ 
2\vm !. Jiecey &:c., to which it is nearly i 
allied. It was discovered by R. H. , 
Schomburg-k, Esq., in 1S37, and : 
named after her majesty the Queen. ! 
Mr. S. transmitted the original draw- 
ing's to the Botanical Society of Lon- 
don, accompanied with a description, 
which was read before that society 
September 7th, 1837, and of which the \ 
following- is an extract: — "'^Thile \ 
contending- with the difficulties na- ' 
ture opposed in different fomis to our ! 
progress up the river Berbice, we 
arrived at a point where the river ; 
expanded, and* fomied a currentless ! 
basin: some object on the southern j 
extremity of this basin attracted my ! 
attention — it was impossible to forai ' 
any idea what it could be, and ani- i 
matins' the crew to increase the rate j 
of paddlins-, shortly afterwards we 
were opposite the object which had | 
raised my curiosity — a vegetaMe \ 
wonder ! ' All calaniities were for- i 
gotten : 1 felt as a botanist, and felt ' 
myself rewarded. A ^ig-antic leaf, ; 
from five to six feet in diameter, i 
salver-shaped, with a broad rim of a 
lig-ht gi'een above, and a vivid crim- ' 
son below, resting- upon the water ; 
quite in character with the wonderful 



leaf was the luxuriant flower, con- 
sisting: of many hundred petals, pass- 
ing: in alternate tints from pure 
white to rose and pink. The smooth 
water was covered with them ; T 
rowed from one to another, and ol - 
seiwed always something- new to ad- 
mire. The leaf on its surface is of a 
brig-ht g-reen. in form orbiculate, with 
this exception opposite its ELxis, 
where it is slightly bent in ; its dia- 
meter measured from five to six feet ; 
around the marg-in extended a rim, 
about three to ^five inches high, on 
the inside lig-ht g-reen, hke the sur- 
face of the leaf ; on the outside, like 
the leaf's lower part, of a bright 
crimson. The stem of the flower is 
an inch thick near the calyx, and is 
studded with sharp elastic prickles, 
about three-quarters of an inch in 
leng-th. The calyx is four-leaved, 
each upwards of seven inches in 
leugth, and three in breadth at the 
base ; they are thick, white inside, 
reddish brown and prickly outside. 
The diameter of the calyx is twelve 
or thirteen inches ; on it rests the 
magnificent flower, v. hich, when fully 
developed, covers completely the 
calyx with its hundred petals. Allien 
it first opens it is white with pink in 
the middle, which spreads over the 
whole flower the more it advances in 
ag-e, and it is in general found the 
next day of a pink colour : as if to 
enhance its beauty, it is sweet- 
scented : like others' of its tribe, it 
possesses a fleshy disk, and petals 
and stamens pass gradually into each 
other, and many petaloid leaves may 
be observed, wliich have vestiges of 
an anther. \Ve met them afterwards 
frequently, and the higher we ad- 
vanced the more gigantic they be- 
came : we measured' a leaf, which 
was sLx feet five inches in diameter, 
its rim five and a half inches high, 
and the flower across fifteen inches." 



YELLOW. 



Plumier's Limnocharis. {Limnocharis \ 
Plumierii.) Flowers from June to 
November, in rich mould. Seeds. 

Humboldt's Limnocharis. ( Limtio- 
cJiaris Humholdiii.) Flowers from 
June to November, in rich mould. 
Seeds. 

Yellow Sacred Bean. {Xehonbium lu- 
teum.) Flowers from June to Au- 



gust, in rich mould. Division of the 
root. 

Floating Jussioea. {Jusaicea nafans.) 
Flowers from August to September, 
in rich mould. Cuttings. 

Pitcher-leaf. ( Nepenthes phyllam- 
phora.) FiOwers in July and Au- 
gust, in peat and loam. Seeds. 



360 



THE AQUARIUM. 



Fierce Euryale. ( Euryale ferooc. ) 
Flowers from July to September, 
in rich mould. Division of the 
root. 

Floating Touch-me-not. ( [mpatiens 



natans.) Flowers in July and Sep- 
tember, in peat and loam. Seeds. 
Red-flowered Water-lily. {NympJiaea 
rubra.) Flowers in July and Augnst, 
in rich mould. Division of the root. 



Pubescent Water-lily. {Nymph<ea pu- 
bescens.) Flowers from May to Au- 
gust, in rich mould. Division of the 
root. 

Showy Sacred Bean. {Nelumbiiim spe- 
ciosum,) Flowers from June to Au- 
gust, in rich mould. Division of the 
root. 



Simple-spiked Aponogeton. (Apono- 
geton monostachyon.) Flowers from 
August to October, in rich mould. 
Offsets. 

Caspian Sacred Bean. ( Nelumbium 
caspicum.) Flowers from June to 
August, in rich mould. Division of 
the root. 



APETALOUS. 



Ancient Papyrus. {Papyrus antiquo- 
rum.) Flowers from July to Sep- 
tember, in rich mould. Division of 
the root. 

Sweet - scented Papyrus. {Papyrus 
odoratus.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in rich mould. Division of the 
the root. 



Elegant Papyrus. {Papyrus elegans.) 
Flowers in July and August, in peat 
and loam. Offsets. 

Lax - flowered Papyrus. ( Papyrus 
laxiflorus. ) Flowers in July and 
August, in peat and loam. Off- 
sets. 



BROWN. 

Spiral Vallisneria. {Vallisneria spiralis.) Flowers in July, in peat and loam. 

Seeds. 



ORANGE. 



Ovate-leaved Villarsia. {Villarsia ovata.) Flowers in May and June, in peat and 
loam. Suckers. 



GREEN. 



Chinese Pitcher-plant. {Nepenthes distillatoria.) Flowers in April and May, in 
peat and loam, mixed with moss. Seeds. 



361 



THE PALM STOVE. 

The Palms constitute of themselves an entire group or order in the 
natural system of arrangement, viz., Palmce. Some of them have been 
known from the earhest times as supplying fruit, and even far more 
valuable products. Several of them are cultivated with great care and 
assiduity in tropical countries, where only the majority of them will exist. 
They are amongst the most gigantic of the vegetable kingdom, yet, never- 
theless, many of them were introduced to Europe a century or two ago, 
and we may venture to state, that from one hundred and fifty to one hun- 
dred and seventy distinct species are cultivated in the collection of the 
Messrs. Loddiges alone, by far the richest collection of these plants in 
Europe. 

Dr. Von Martins, a Bavarian traveller in Brazil, has done more to 
elucidate the natural habits and botanical characters of these plants, than 
all the botanists who preceded him. He has pubUshed some excellent re- 
marks on the characters of the order, and concludes them in the following 
interesting manner : — " Palms, the noble offspring of Terra and Phcebus, 
are natives of those happy countries mthin the tropics, where the rays of 
the latter are ever beaming. In all such climates they are to be found, 
— with this limitation, however, that in the southern hemisphere they do 
not overstep the thirty-fifth degree of latitude, nor in the northern the 
fortieth. Most species are confined within fixed and naiTow bounds ; for 
it comes to pass, that wherever a district is characterized by striking 
pecuharities of soil or climate, those species exist that are not found else- 
where ; but few, on the contrary, extend over a large extent of surface, as 
the Cocos nucifera, Acrocromia sclerocarpa, Borassus flalelliformis, &c. 
It is probable that the number of .palms existing on the face of the earth, 
will be found by future travellers to amount to as many as a thousand 
species. Most of them love the margins of springs and streams, but few 
establish themselves on the shore of the ocean, and yet a smaller number 
ascend into the alpine regions of their country. Some collect in large 
forests, some are scattered singly or in clusters among woods and plains. 



362 



THE PALM STOVE. 



In the most ancient periods of the world, when the genera of plants were 
beginning to be formed, palms scarcely existed ; they were preceded in 
the creation by the more ancient ferns, Cycadeoe, grasses, and Equisetacecs. 
Some of their remains have, however, been found in variegated sandstone, 
and in limestone of the third order, part of which belong to unknown 
species, and part to species still in existence. But in the times succeeding 
the deluge, they appear, from written evidence of historians and poets, to 
have followed the footsteps of man, to whom their fruit yielded food, 
drink, and oil ; their stems, houses, arms, utensils, flowers, and wine ; and 
their leaves, cordages, and roofs for habitations. In cultivation, their 
soil should be shghtly saline ; they are propagated by seeds more readily 
than by truncheons of the stem ; when cultivated, they undergo no altera- 
tion, except in producing more fleshy or stemless fruit : it is extremely 
difficult to transplant them beyond their own country ; natm'ally, their 
migration is absolutely opposed by the barriers of the ocean." 

" The culture of palms," as Mr. Loudon justly observes, " is less a 
matter of nicety than expense. They require a powerful moist heat, a 
^arge mass of rich earth in the pot, tub, or bed, and ample space for the 
leaves. As they are of remarkably slow growth, a stove devoted to their 
culture does not require to exceed the common height at first ; but, to 
•admit the tree palms to display their character, it would require to have 
the roof elevated by degrees to sixtj^ eighty, or a hundred feet. It is 
much to be wished that some spirited man of wealth w^ould, in these 
times of peace and leisure, distinguish himself by palm culture, of which 
Messrs. Loddiges have, much to their honour, set the first example. It 
is a common opinion that their growth is so slow, that little eff'ect would 
be produced during a lifetime ; but this, every gardener who has supplied 
his palms with abundance of space for their roots, and adequate heat in 
their atmosphere, can witness against." 

The largest and finest gi'own species of palms in Europe are at the 
Earl of Tankerville's, at Walton-on-Thames, and the extraordinary pro- 
gress that these have made vdthin these last five or six years, since the 
stove was enlarged for them, is astonishing, and confirms the opinion 
above quoted. These palms have long ago extended their roots beyond 
the hmits of tubs or boxes, and have established themselves in what 
was originally the tan -pit, in which they were plunged ; how far their 
roots may have extended beyond the limits of that bed it is impossible 
to say. 

The following are a part of that collection : — Zamia pungenSj sixty years 
old, is four feet three inches and a half in circumference in the stem, tlie 



COCOA-NUT PALM. 



363 



leaves being five feet two inches in length. Some yeai^s ago this splendid 
specimen flowered, and produced an immense number of seeds, but being 
a female plant, and no male near it, they were of course abortive. 
Latania rubra, fifty years old, two feet six inches in circumference in 
stem, and the leaves eight feet long. Phoenix dactylifera, sixty years old, 
seven feet four inches in circumference in stem, and the leaves thirty feet 
long. CorypJia nmbraeulifera, sixty years old, eight feet six inches round 
the stem, and with leaves fifteen feet in length. 

Next in importance to these, exclusive of some of Loddiges', are those in 
the magnificent palm-stove in the garden at Rennwegg, in Germany, 
remarkable for its large palms ; and in that at Schonbrunn, the Cocos 
nucifera, Elceis guineensiSy Caryota urer^s, and CorypJia umhraculifera^ 
have attained a very large size. 

One species of palm, Cycas circinalis, aff'ords the well-knoAvn farinaceous 
nutriment sago. This plant, which with us seldom exceeds two or 
three feet in the trunk, attains a large size in the islands of the Indian 
Archipelago, in which the easterly monsoon is the most boisterous and 
rainy. It is found in most abundance in those islands in which the clove 
and nutmeg are most propitiously grown. There are immense forests 
of it in the great island of Ceram, in low, damp, marshy places, and 
in these the finest sago plantations are in bogs knee-deep of mud and 
water. The utmost age at which the tree arrives in its native country is 
calculated at thirty years. There are specimens of it, however, con- 
siderably above that age in om- European collections. 

THE COCOA-NUT PALM (Cocos uucifera). 

The cocoa-nut tree," says Mr. Porter, in the Tropical Agriculturist, 
" is considered by some writers to be richer in the amount and variety of 
its produce than any other known plant of the tropical regions, abounding 
as they do in luxuriant specimens of vegetation. More than one valuable 
product is drawn from its fruit, besides which, in an earlier state of 
vegetation, the flower-bud is made to }deld its liquid sweets." 

In such great veneration do the natives of Hindostan, where it has 
been cultivated from the earliest ages, hold this tree, that to cut it down 
is considered one of their greatest crimes ; and amongst the nineteen 
castes into which Brahma di\dded those tribes who still venerate him, 
one caste is exclusively devoted to the cultivation of this tree, and pre- 
paring its valuable products. Tliis caste, like the Le%-ites in the Mosaic law, 
is the most distinguished, and ranks with those who are said to be of 



364 



THE PALM STOVE. 



the right hand. Cordiner says of this tree, that the man who plants one 
of them confers a lasting henefit on himself, and hands down to pos- 
terity more certain riches than can be procured in less genial chmates by a 
life of the most toilsome labour. WTien the seeds or slips are once put 
into the ground they require no cultivation, no pruning, no kind of atten- 
tion, but spontaneously advance to maturity, and yield a regular and 
never-failing produce." 

In those chmates where the mean temperature of the air is below 
seventy-seven degrees, this tree will not succeed. Every kind of soil 
appears to suit it if abundantly supplied with water. One pecuharity in 
its native culture deserves the attention of the British cultivator, namely, 
its deUghting in a saline soil and maritime situation. Bertolacci says, 
" it flourishes so very near the sea, that its roots are in many places washed 
by its waters, without injury, until it is actually undermined." When it 
is intended to make a plantation of these trees in the interior of Malabar, 
at a distance from the sea. Dr. Von Martins asserts that it is the customary 
practice to throw as much as a half bushel of salt into the hole which 
receives the cocoa-nut. The natural duration of the tree appears to be 
about eighty or eighty-five years. Till it attains the age of thirty-five 
years its growth is rapid ; after that period its developement is slower, 
and it gradually dechnes after passing its fiftieth year. 

The cocoa-nut is propagated only from its fruit, which should be sown 
as soon as it can be procured after its anival in this country. The 
soundest nut should be selected, and sown in deep pots, so as to be 
covered at least three or fom' inches deep, laying the nut in a slanting 
position, so that the eye may be presented towards the surface of the 
mould. None of the outer covering should be displaced, as it retains an 
equable degree of moisture round the shell, which hastens the ger- 
mination of the seed. About four or five weeks after sowing, if 
abundance of moisture and heat be applied, the roots will burst through 
the shell, and the future stem, or rather the first leaf, will begin to 
develope itself, at first white and smooth like a piece of ivory, at which 
period it is extremely tender, and considered an excellent article of food, 
either eaten raw or roasted in the ashes. 

It is stated in the Tropical Agriculturist, " that if by accident a cocoa- 
nut tree should be deprived of its top, that the roots cease to acquire 
nourishment, and the stem is reduced to dust in the course of eight 
or ten days. In this respect it differs remarkably from other large 
trees, which, being topped, the trunks sprout out into vigorous vege- 
tation." Whether this circumstance has been noticed in European 



DATE, FAX PALM. 



365 



culture we know not, but, at all events, it deserves the attention of the 
horticulturist. 

Of the other palms ^vhich are of important utility to man, we may 
mention the date {Phoenix dactylifera), the fiiiit of which is served up 
in our desserts ; but its principal use is in affording the chief portion 
of food to the inhabitants of Arabia and part of Persia. The date 
has been cultivated and used as a nutritious food from the earhest 
ages, and there is no part of the tree but is turned to some useful 
account. 

The gi'eat fan palm, ConjpTia umhracidifera, is one of the most noble 
of the class. It attains a great height, and from the top produces 
leaves in the shape of an immense fan, twent\- feet long and fifteen 
wide. A production of such magnitude and durabihty could not fail 
to claim the attention of the natives in the earhest ages, and hence 
we find the leaves of this palm employed in covering houses, and, 
according to Knox, in his History of Ceylon, these leaves, being cut 
into triangular pieces, are used by the natives as a protection from the 
rain and sun. AYhen they travel, they lay these pieces upon their 
heads, with the narrow end foremost, the more readily to make their 
way through the tliickets. Soldiers also cany them, not only to shade 
them fi'om the sun, and to keep them dry in case of rain on their 
march, but to make their tents to he under." As a fruit-bearing 
tree, the same historian says, It bears no fruit until the last year 
of its life ; and then yeUow blossoms, most lovely to behold, but 
smehing very strongly, come out on the top, and spread abroad amongst 
the branches ; these come to a fruit, round and very hard, as big as our 
largest cherries, in such abundance, that one tree will yield seed enough 
for a country, but not good enough to eat." 

The leaves are used for writing upon, and books formed of them are 
sold to Europeans for the Egyptian pap^Tus. 

The leaves of Licuala spinosa are used in the isle of Celebes, and in 
^Macassar, for making tobacco pipes ; and the wood of Thrinax pan-iflora 
in Jamaica for piles in wharfs and buildings made in the sea, as they are 
durable, and the worms do not attack them. 

In most countries where the palms grow, their leaves are almost 
universally used for thatch, forming a durable covering, and one which is 
capable of throwing off the water. 



366 



THE PALM STOVE. 



PROPAGATION OF PALMS. 

The majority of Palms are increased by seeds ; but as these rarely 
ripen in Europe, they are usually imported from their native countries, 
and for the most part anive in better condition for vegetation than 
tropical seeds in general. 

A paper on the propagation of Zamias, ^hich may be applied to other 
species also, was sent to the Horticultural Society by Mr. Faldemian, 
chief gardener in the imperial botanic gardens at St. Petersbm'gh, detail - 
ing his success in increasing the Zamia horrida from the hard scales 
which form the bases of the leaves. The substance of this communication 
was, that the stem of a plant of the above species became to all appear- 
ance dead, the centre having entirely rotted within it. The cavity thus 
formed was filled with dry sand, the plant placed in a dry, shaded part of 
the stove, and covered vath. a bell-glass ; in the course of three months 
the scales pushed out small leaves and roots, when they were carefully 
separated and planted singly in pots, in white sand, in which they grew, 
and ultimately produced good plants. Zamia and Cycas of different 
species have been propagated in this country by destroying the centre of 
the stem, upon exactly tlie same physiological principle as that of destro^dng 
the centre of a bulb, or propagating by scales, those bulbs which form them 
having the rudiment of a bud or leaf at their apex. 

Some species of Zamia propagate by suckers, but rarely, while ChamcB- 
ropshumilis and C. serrulata increase freely by the same means, and Rliapvi 
fladelliformis is readily increased by dirision of the root. 



367 



SELECT LIST OF PALMS. 



Palms heing for the most part apetalousy that iSy without coloured petals or 
flowers, ive shall give the height in feet of each species, specifying such as are 
cultivated in the tropics, and the mode of reproduction, instead of the colour of 
the flower and time of flowering, given in the foregoing Select Lists. 



Acrocomia minor, 20 feet, seeds. 

tenuifolia, 30, seeds, 
aculeata, 40, seeds, 
horrida, 30, seeds, 
globosa, 20, seeds, 
sclei'ocarpa, 40, seeds. 
Areca humilis, 6, seeds. Cultivated, 
oleracea, 40, seeds. Cultivated, 
crinata, 20, seeds, 
exilis, 30, seeds, 
montana, 30, seeds, 
rubra, 30, seeds. 
Catecliu, 30, seeds. 
Aetrocaryum acaule, 10, seeds. 

campestre, 10, seeds. 
AT.Llgare, 30, seeds, 
aculeatum, 40, seeds. 
Attalia humilis, 10, seeds. 

compacta, 22, seeds, 
excelsa, 70, seeds, 
speciosa, 70, seeds. 
Rossii, 20, seeds, 
funifera, 40, seeds. 
Bactris minor, 12, seeds. 

major, 25, seeds. 
Borassus flabellifomiis, 30, seeds. 
Calamus nig-er, 20, seeds. 

albus, 50, seeds, 
rudentum, 200, seeds, 
draco, 50, seeds, 
verus, 20, seeds. 
Caryota ureiis, 20, seeds. 

mitis, 20, seeds, 
horrida, 20, seeds. 
Chamsedorea g-raciUs, 10, suckers. 

fra2:rans, 8, suckers. - 
Cocos micifera, 50, seeds. Cultivated, 
plumosa, 50, seeds, 
flexuosa, 50, seeds. 



Corypha umbraculifera, 100, seeds, 
elata, 150, seeds, 
g-laucescens, 150, seeds, 
tectorum, 15, seeds. 
Utan, 50, seeds. 
Pumos, 20, seeds, 
australis, 50, seeds. 
Cycas revoluta, 3, seeds and scales, 
circinahs, 3, seeds and scales, 
glauca, 4, seeds, scales, and 

suckers, 
squarrosa, 4, seeds, scales, and 

suckers, 
angnlata, 4, scales and suckers. 
Desmoncus dubius, 6, seeds. 

polycanthus, 6, seeds, 
americanus, 6, seeds. 
Diplothemium maritima, 10, seeds. 
Eiaeis occidentalis, 30, seeds. 

pernambucana, 50, seeds, 
melanococca, 30, seeds. 
Elate sylvestris, 14, seeds. 
Euterpe giobosa, SO, seeds, 
oleracea, 30, seeds, 
caribaea, 30, seeds. 
Geonoma acaulis, 5, seeds. 

SpLxiana, 15, seeds, 
pinnatifrons, 15, seeds, 
simplicitrons, 5, seeds. 
Gomutus saccharifer, 40, seeds. 
H\-phcene coriacea, 20, seeds. 
Latania rubra, 15, seeds. 

borbonica, 20, seeds, 
glaucophylla, 15, seeds. 
Lodoicea sechellarum, SO, seeds. 
Livistonia inennis, 10, seeds. 

humihs, 5, seeds. 
Leopoldina pulchra, 60, seeds. 
Licula spiuosa, 6, seeds. 



368 THE 



Licula peltata, 6, seeds. 
Maximiliana reg"ia, 60, seeds. 
Maujitia flexuosa, 40, seeds. 

vinifera, 50, seeds, 
armata, 50, seeds, 
Monieria saccifera, 30, seeds. 
Nipa frutescens, 10, seeds. 
CEnocarpus Batava, 40, seeds. 
Phoenix dactylifera, 40, seeds and suck- 
ers. Cultivated. 

reclinata, 10, seeds, 

acaulis, 6, seeds. 

paludosa, 20, seeds. 

sylvestris, 20, seeds. 

farinifera, 30, seeds. 

pygmoea, 6, seeds. 

leonensis, 30, seeds. 
Rhapis flabelliformis, 6, roots. 

arundinacea, 6, roots. 
Sabal Blackburniana, 6, seeds. 



STOVE. 



Sabal Adansoni, 6, seeds, 
graminifolia, 6, seeds, 
umbraculifera, 6, seeds. 
Palmeto, 6, seeds. 
Sa^s Rumphii, 50, suckers. Culti- 
vated 
vinifera, 50, seeds, 
pedunculata, 50, seeds. 
Taliera bengalensis, 100, seeds. 
Zamia pung-ens, 10, scales, 
latifolia, 6, scales, 
horrida, 5, scales, 
furfuracea, 3, scales, 
tenuis, 1, scales, 
repanda, 6, scales, 
spiralis, 3, scales, 
spinosa, 5, scales, 
pumila, 18 in., scales, 
debilis, 1, scales. 



3G9 



THE TROPICAL FRUIT STOVE. 

We are informed by the late Josepli Sabine, Esq., in a communication 
published in the Transactions of the London Horticultural Society, 
vol. V. p. 439, that the cultivation of tropical fruit was one of the subjects 
to which it was purposed, on the first establishment of the Society, that 
its attention should be directed, and that the various collectors employed 
in its service were particularly instructed to attend to the discovery of 
new fruits, and to embrace every opportunity of procuring the most 
accurate information in regard to thek cultivation. How far this Society 
has succeeded in enlightening our darkness on this subject is not for us 
at present to inquire into. Some private individuals, however, have 
turned their attention to this subject, and an epitome of the success of 
their endeavours will occupy a part, in conjunction with our own practice 
and observations, in the following remarks on the subject of Tropical 
Fruit culture. 

For such as have the means, and a taste, for the cultivation of Tropical 
Fruits, we would recommend a trial, as being both useM and agreeable. 
" It seems," says Mr. Loudon, in speaking on this subject, to deserve 
the attention of retired persons of solitary habits, aged or inactive, by 
presenting an end to be attained : it may serve as a gentle stimulus to 
such as, from indolence or bihous complaints, are apt to sink into a state 
of torpid, unenjoyed existence." 

The natui'al habits of the pine, when first introduced into this country, 
and recommended as a fruit-bearing plant, were much less known than 
the habits of most Tropical Fruits are at present, and the science of artifi- 
cial gardening was much less perfectly understood at that time than it is 
at present. Yet we know what progress has been made in the culture of 
tliat fruit, also a native of the tropics, within the space of less than a 
century, and it would not surprise us to see, in less than a quarter of that 
time, the Mango, the Mangostein, the Plantain, the Banana, and the 
various Guavas, as common in the markets of the British metropolis, as 
the Pine and the Melon are at present. 

B B 



370 



THE TROPICAL FRUIT STOVE. 



Some of tlie fruits of the tropics have already fruited with us without 
much difficulty, such as, for example, the mango, at Walcot Hall, by the 
Earl of Powis ; the guava, by the late ^Ir. Cattley ; the jambrosade, by 
Professor Thouin, in the Jardin des Plantes at Paris ; the banana, by 
Mr. Richardson, at AValton-on-Thames, and in many other places, and 
the granadilles, in almost every stove where their culture has been 
attended to. 

In announcing to the Horticultural Society the success of the Earl of 
Powis in fruiting the mango, Mr. Sabine observes, " It is with great 
satisfaction that I have to address the society upon the subject of the 
mangoes which have lately Ijeen communicated to us by the Earl of 
Po\\is. Thus having succeeded in showing that this delicious fruit may 
be produced under artificial management in Great Britain, and in sufficient 
abundance to form a not unfrequent part of the dessert, is so important a 
circumstance, that I feel called upon to acquaint the public as speedily as 
possible with the result of this very signal triumph of skill and per- 
severance over difficulties which have been hitherto considered insur- 
mountable." — Hort. Trans, vol. \\. p. 550. The same success we hesitate 
not to predict will follow the intelligent and scientific cultivator in the 
case of most of the Tropical Fruits enumerated and treated of in the 
following pages. 

STRUCTURES CALCULATED FOR THE CULTIVATION OF TROPICAL FRUITS. 

Light, heat, and moisture, are indispensable agents in the creation of a 
proper atmosphere for the cultm'C of Tropical Fruit trees. These can be 
commanded in abundance by the ordinary means in daily use. The 
structm-e for this purpose would require to be of large dimensions, par- 
ticularly in altitude, as some of the trees attain a considerable height, 
such as the bananas, plantains, &c. There are others, however, which 
can only be considered as mere shrubs, as the Indian fig, prickly pear, &c. 

A span-roofed house, therefore, is certainly the most eligible for this 
purpose, as the centre will afford space for the taUest gro-^ing sorts, 
wMe those of humbler statm*e can occupy the front or sides, where they 
wiU enjoy a sufficiency of hght without shading their taller neighbours. 
Such a house as that represented by our figm-e of a double span-roofed 
conservatoiy (which see) is all that would be required for this purpose, 
even upon the most extensive scale ; and in such a one the plants might 
be planted out in the borders, but much better if grown in large boxes or 
pots, and simk into a cavity under the surface level. By adopting the 



FORM OF STRUCTURE. 



371 



latter plan, great economy would be effected, for the arrangements could 
be so contrived that the plants might be elevated or lowered according to 
circumstances, and thus the expense saved of carrying up the roof to an 
extraordinary height, which should be avoided as much as possible, not 
only on account of the extra expense in the first erection, but also in the 
great expenditure of heat ever after. 

This mode of arrangement has been exemphfied in the new houses 
recently built in the Jardin des Plantes, at Paris. The space where 
the tubs and pots stand is sunk six feet under the ground level, which is 
tantamount to adding the same to the height, besides the improvement 
in the appearance. In this ca^ity the plants should be placed on stands, 
by which they could be elevated or lowered at pleasure. There can be 
no objection to this mode of arrangement, provided that a sufficient 
temperature be kept up at and round the roots of the plants, and that a 
sufficient degree of ventilation be afforded : without these precautions the 
plant would not flourish. This can, however, be very easHy effected by 
making the arrangements for heating sufficiently low, so that the bottom 
of the pit or cavity may be heated fii'st. 

Upon a smaller scale many of the lower grov^ing Tropical Fruits may 
be cultivated in houses not very materially different from those in general 
use ; and, perhaps, the most economical of all might be such as is 
represented by the accompanying diagram, and in which many of these 
fruits might be grown. 




Snch a house, if not exceeding thirty or thirty-five feet in length, might 
be heated by one flue, or hot-water pipe, placed at a, over which a treUised 
table should be placed for the reception of young plants, to replace such 



372 



THE TROPICAL FRUIT STOVE. 



as may die, or require to be removed in course of time. The fruit- 
bearing plants or trees should be set on or plunged in a bed of tan, or 
leaves, or other fermentable matter ; this pit to be of the depth of not less 
than eight or nine feet, both for the purpose of affording a powerful 
bottom heat to such plants as most require it, and to enable the cultivator 
to sink the plants as it may appear requisite, or when they press too much 
upon the glass. 

A small span- roofed house might be used for a similar purpose, and one 
according to the principle of the accompanying sketch might be con- 




sidered as a good example. In this house, the pit will occupy the centre, 
and be of an equal depth to that proposed above, but having piers carried 
up under the centre of the roof, as at a, upon which cast-iron pillars may 
rest, at equal distances, for the support of the roof, and also to caiTV the 
pipes for the hot water, which might be placed just above the level of 
the bed. 

This mode of heating may be objected to by some, because the pipes are 
placed in the centre of the house instead of towards the sides, which is 
unquestionably the best position for repelling the cold. Our object is, that 
as there are some Tropical fruit-bearing trees that require a greater degree 
of heat than others, and as these are in general the largest or loftiest 
growing ones, they of course occupy the centre or warmer part of the 
house, as the heat will be given off from the pipes by radiation, to 
the right hand as well as to the left, and also in a perpendicular direc- 
tion. 



AKEE TREE, AVOCADO PEAR. 



373 



A house upon the principle shown in tlie annexed diagram would als 
be a very eligible structure for fruiting Tropi- 
cal trees : it might be about five feet wide, 
and as high as the garden wall against which 
it is placed. The trees should be planted out 
against the back wall, and trained horizontally 
or fan-shaped, according to circumstances ; 
by this means the most lofty trees could be 
so trained as to occupy little space, and the 
control of training would tend to bring them 
into a bearing state much sooner. This house 
may be heated by hot water or flues placed 
in front, upon a solid foundation, to prevent their sinking as well as to 
limit the space for the roots to run in. The lights may be fixed and 
ventilation carried on by the use of wooden ventilators, built in the front 
and back walls. 

In such houses much might be done in attaining the end in view. 
We will now proceed to notice some peculiarities in the culture of diffe- 
rent species- 

THE AKEE TREE {BUgMa sapido). 

This tree is a native of Guinea, and was introduced into this country 
in the year 1793. It is veiy commonly met with in collections of stove 
plants. It attains a height of from twenty to twenty-five feet, in its 
natural state, but is seldom half so much when cultivated in this country^ 
The fruit, which is about the size of a goose's egg, and of a reddish 
yellow colour, is esteemed by the West Indians as a wholesome and 
nourishing food. 

This tree is propagated by seeds, cuttings, layers, &c., like most other 
stove plants, but the British cultivator who means to attempt its cultiva- 
tion as a fruit-bearing tree, had better order a few trees to be inoculated 
in Jamaica, and then sent over in tubs ; these might be treated as directed 
for orange trees, and then planted in a border of rich earth, submitted to 
a Jamaica climate, and flat-trained near the glass. The Akee, treated in 
this manner, or kept in tubs or large pots, would, there is no doubt, pro- 
duce fruit \nt\\ us as freely as the orange or citron does. 

THE ALIGATOR, OR AVOCADO PEAR {LaUVUS perSlCO). 

This tree, like most of its family, does not often exceed the height of 
thirty feet in its natm-al state, and much less when submitted to cultiva- 




374 



THE TROPICAL FRUIT STOVE. 



tion. The flowers are produced towards the points of the branches, 
care, therefore, should be taken that they be as seldom shortened as 
possible. The fmit is about the size of a small pear, having a rich 
and dehcate flavour, and, unlike exotic fruits in general, very soon gaining 
on the palate of Europeans, who become as partial to it as the \yest 
Indians themselves, who esteem it one of their best fruits. It is in 
general eaten with Ume-juice, wine, or pepper and salt, as melons are by 
some connoisseurs in this country. 

The remarks we have made on the propagation, importation, and culture 
of the Akee tree are equally applicable to this also. 

ANCHOVY PEAR {GHds cauUflord). 

In its natural state this tree attains the height of fifty feet and upwards, 
requiring, therefore, in a state of artificial culture, a house as lofty as the 
Musas, &c. The medium height at which it might be expected to pro- 
duce its fruit in this country, may be taken at from twenty-five to thirty^ 
feet. It is a native of the AYest Indies, producing a fmit somewhat 
similar to the last, both in size and shape. It is used more as a pickle 
than in its natural state, and, in the former, resembles in taste the East 
Indian Mango. 

It is propagated readily from seeds, and also by the other usual modes, 
and, Mke all lofty-growing exotic fruits, might be more advantageously 
trained to a trelhs, in a horizontal manner, than grown as a standard, 
requiring, of course, a less lofty house. 

AFRICAN CUSTARD APPLE {Aiioua smegaleiisis). 

This is a native of Senegal, Sierra Leone, and the banks of the Congo. 
It attains, naturally, a height of about twelve or fifteen feet, and produces 
fruit about the size of a pigeon's egg, which in flavour resembles that 
of the other custai'd apples (which see), but is superior to most of them. 

BARBADOES GOOSEBERRY (PeresMa aculeata). 

This well-known plant, if allowed room to extend its branches, trained 
under the rafters of a stove, and planted in a large pot, in rich, well- 
drained soil, will produce its fruit abundantly. It is, however, less 
esteemed in point of flavour than most of the other Cactuses, which see 
under the name Indian Fig, &.c. 



THE GUAVA, BREAD FRriT, ETC. 



375 



BASTARD GUAVA (Eugenia pseiido-Psidium), cayexxe cherry (Eugenia 
cotinifoUa), cattley's guava (Psidium Cattleganum), the red 
GUAVA, (Psidium pomiferum), the white guava, (Psidium pyri- 
ferum) — 

Are all fruits of considerable merit, and are held in lugh esteem in 
their native country. As these trees do not attain a very large size 
before they produce their fruit, perhaps from ten to fifteen feet, they are 
better calculated for house culture than those T^hich require more room. 
The fruit of the ^hite or vrild guava is of a roundish, oblong form, and 
rather larger than a hen's egg. Its flavour is sweet, aromatic, and 
pleasant. The red guava somewhat resembles a pomegranate in size and 
colour ; it is not of so pleasant a flavour as the last. The fruit of 
Cattley's guava is nearly spherical, and larger than any of the above ; its 
colour is a fine claret ; it is juicy and pleasant, and of the consistency 
of a strawberry. 

The latter sort has been fiTiited often in this country without any par- 
ticular trouble, in a common plant stove, and there is no doubt but the 
rest might be cultivated so as to produce abundance of fruit. 

The Psidium Cattleyanum is fruited at Snelston Hall, by Mr. Smith, 
most successfully, by confining its roots in pots or tubs when they have 
attained their full size. This brings on a disposition to flower and produce 
fruit, which is ripened into full maturity by removing the trees from the 
greenhouse or conservatory, into the stove or forcing-house, in autumn, 
when the temperature is not less than sixty degrees. The guava flourishes 
best in a strong, rich, loamy soil, abundantly supplied with water, both 
at its roots and over the branches. It becomes under this treatment a 
very desirable addition to the dessert during winter ; and trees of only 
four feet in height have been loaded with not less than ten dozen of fruit, 
in their difl'erent stages of growth. 

the breai> fruit (Atrocarpus incisa), the jack fruit (Afrocarpus 
integrifoUa). 

Neither of these has produced fruit in Europe, nor are they by any 
means common, even in collections strictly botanical. Their culture 
seems by no means so well understood, as even to admit of their being 
found often amongst the plants of commerce. These remarks are more 
directly apphed to the former, which is a native of the South Sea Islands, 



376 



THE TROPICAL FRUIT STOVE. 



from whence, after much trouble and expense, it was introduced into the 
\Yest Indian islands, where it was expected to turn out of good account 
as a nutritious food for the black population. The latter tree is plentiful 
in the West Indies, and produces abundance of fi'uit, and is altogether 
much more patient of cultivation. The fruit of the true bread-fruit tree 
is about the size and shape of a child's head, and curiously reticulated on 
the exterior, somewhat like a truffle. The skin is thin, between which 
and the core, (which latter is about the size of one's finger) lies the pulp 
or edible part, which is pure white, and of much the appearance and con- 
sistency of new bread. It requires to be baked or roasted before it is 
eaten, and its taste resembles that of new bread mixed with Jerusalem 
artichokes. 

We are surprised that these extraordinary trees should remain so rare 
in Britain, when it is well known that both sorts might be imported, with 
little trouble or expense, from St. Vincent's or Jamaica. We wish some 
spirited amateur cultivator would introduce some of both kinds, and 
give them a fair trial in a house dedicated to the production of Tropical 
Fruits. 

We are informed that the largest specimen of Atrocarpus incisa in 
Britain is in the Chatsworth collection. In such estabhshments only are 
we to expect to see this extraordinary fruit brought to perfection. 

It is probable that neither of these will ever produce their fruit in this 
country, as they attain a large size and considerable age before they fruit 
even in the tropics. They would, however, be highly ornamental, on 
account of their fine foliage, and, in a collection of Tropical Fruit trees, 
quite indispensable. 

THE EARTH NUT {AracMs Jiypogoso). 

This plant is cultivated extensively in South CaroHna, where the seeds 
are used as chocolate. In the neighbourhood of Paris it is raised on 
hotbeds, and afterwards transplanted into the open garden, where it ripens 
its seeds, which are used as other legumes. It has been cultivated in the 
gardens of the Hon. Kobert Fulke Greville, by sowing the seeds singly in 
pots about the month of February in a pine stove ; when the plants have 
attained the height of half a foot they are turned out of the pots and 
planted in the tan bedj in a row, close to the kerb, w^here they form a 
ixretty edging, and do not attain a height to shade or interfere with the 
jrines. The pods ripen in autumn, when they are taken out of the tan 
and diied, and are found to be as good as those grown in the tropics. 



PLAXTAIXS. 



377 



THE PLANTAIN TREE (Miisa poradmaca), the banana tree (Mi/.sa 
sajjienf inn), TB.E duke of Devonshire's plantain (Musa CavmdisMi), 

These plants attain the height of from fifteen to twenty feet of stem in 
a natural state, ^Titll leaves often more than six feet long and two broad- 
In a cultivated state, however, they produce theii* fi-uit when of the height 
of from eight to twelve feet. The flowers are produced at the termination 
of the stem, which, therefore, must on no account be shoitened, but 
allowed to extend to its fall length. The flowers hang in long racemes, 
or bunches, the fei*tile ones occupying the lower, and the barren ones the 
upper part of the raceme. The friiit is a long, angular, fleshy bern', very 
sweet and pleasant to eat. In the tropics, the spikes of fruit often ex- 
ceed the weight of forty poimds, but so far as we are aware they have not 
been produced in our hothouses above half that weight. 

" It is certainly one of the most usefid fruits in the world, and seems 
to have migrated with mankind into all the chmates into which it 
may be cultivated. The fruit is so much esteemed by ail Europeans who 
settle in America, that the first thing they do is to estabhsh a plantain 
walk ; enlarging it as their family increases. Some or other of the trees 
are bearing most part of the year ; and then* fruit is often the whole food 
on which a family subsists. Three dozen plantains are sufficient to serve 
one man for a week, instead of bread, and \^ill suppoit him much better." 
— Ency. of Plants. 

The fiTiit of the banana is shorter and rounder, and rather more luscious 
in taste than the plantain : it can only be con^.dered as a variety of 
the other, although botanists have described them as separate species, 
with about as much reason as there would be in making the golden pippin 
and the golden nob apple two distinct species of p%Tus. 

Both varieties have been fi-uited in this country, particularly at AVynn- 
stay, the seat of Sh' ^Vatkin ^Vilhams Wynne, in Denbighshire, whence 
specimens of the banana bet^'een fom* and five inches long were for- 
warded to the Hoiticultm-al Society of London, in ] 819. The plant above 
alluded to is described in the Transactions of the Society, vol. vi. p. 138, 
as being planted in the pit of a - stove when about six feet high, vdxh. a 
single stem. 

" In each succeeding year it has produced a bunch of fruit : but in the 
present yeai' (1819), two bunches: the first was ripe in May, the other 
in August, having about four dozen fruit on each bunch. The plant is 
now sixteen feet high, and measures three feet roimd at the bottom." 



378 



THE TROPICAL FRI'IT STOVE. 



In regard to calture, no plant requii-es less, provided they have room 
to develope their beautiful and delicate foUage. To afford them this, and 
also as theu' roots are long, thick, and fleshy, they had better be planted 
Qut in the border of the house in rich, loamy soil, laid upon a perfectly 
dry, "well-drained bottom. 

The Musa Cavendishii is a variety, probably a new species, lately dis- 
covered, and named in compliment to his Grace the Duke of Devonshire, 
who is the most munificent patron and hberal encourager of horticulture 
and botany of the day. The great merits of this latter sort is, that it is 
of humble growth compared to its near associates, and is capable on that 
account of being cultivated in pine pits with as much success and cer- 
tainty as the Ananas or pine-apple. It is, however, still rare, the demand 
for it being more than the supply has hitherto been able to meet. 

HOG PLUM, ou YELLOW PLUM {Spondlas myroholanus), gingerbread 
PLUM {Parinariujn macrophyllum), country plum {Spmdias, various 
species), small pigeox plum {ChrysobaJanus eUipticm) yellow 
piGEOX PLUM (Chrysobalanus luteurn), rough skixxed, or grey 
plum {Parimrium excelsum), black plum {Jltejv umhrosa). 

These are chiefly natives of Sierra Leone. The first produces its fruit 
at the extremity of the branches : it is of the size of a walnut, of an oval 
shape and yellowish colour ; the flesh is tender, and in taste and appeai*- 

ance much resembhng the plums of our gardens. 

The second is a shrub of only a few feet in height, producing fruit 
about the size of oui' Orleans plums, which is very weU tasted. 

The two varieties of pigeon plums are esteemed for their finiit, but 
the latter species has not, we beheve, been introduced as yet into this 
country. The trees on which both are produced are of no great magni- 
tude, and from that circumstance, and the profusion in which their fruit 
is produced, there can be little doubt but that it could be cultivated in 
great perfection in our stoves. The fruit of the smaU kind is in size and 
colour similar to om- damson, and that of the yellowish sort is similar in 
all respects, except colour, to om- Orleans plum. 

The rough-skinned, or grey plum, is the least interesting as a fruit of 
any of the others. It is, however, much esteemed by the natives, and 
by them brought in gi'eat quantities to the mai'kets. In size and shape 
it resembles om- Imperatrice plum, but is of a greyish colour. 

The black plum is the produce of a large and elegant tree, not unhke 
the horse chestnut : the finiit is produced in abundance, but is not so 



GR AX AD ILL A. 



379 



much esteemed as the pigeon pkims, noticed above. The culture of a 
common plant stove would be suitable for all of these, giving them plenty 
of pot room, light, heat, and water. 

GRAXADILLA OR GRAXADILLE, 

Is a name given by the French to several sorts of passifloras, from 
the resemblance of the fi'uit, in size and colour, to a pomegranate, with 
tliis difference, that the granadilla is not crovrned with a calyx. Those 
most commonly cidtivated for their fiTiit are, the common granadilla 
{Pa^ssiflora quadrangidaris), apple-fruited granadilla, or sweet calabash 
{Passiflora maliformis) , lam'el-leaved gi'anadilla, or water lemon (Passi- 
flora laurifoUa), purple-fruited granadilla {Passiflom incarnata, eduILs of 
Bot. Mag.), flesh-coloured gi-anadilla (Passiflora incarnata of Linnaeus). 

These have all fruited in the stoves of this country, and in a house set 
apart for the cultivation of tropical fruits, they should be planted out in 
borders, or grown in large pots or tubs, and trained up the rafters. 

The common gi'anadilla bears fmit of an oblong form, about six inches 
in diameter and fifteen in circumference. The flavom' is sweet and slightly 
acid, veiy grateful to the taste, and extremely refreshing in a hot climate, 
where it is usually eaten with wine and sugar. 

^Ir. ]^Iicheson, in a communication in the Gardener's Magazine, vol. ii. 
p. 203, details his mode of culture as follows : — The plant is set into a 
box eighteen inches square, fixed on a level with the kerb in one corner of 
a tan pit. The sides of the box are perforated, to admit the roots to run 
among the tan, and the shoots are trained hke wines under the rafters. 
In autumn the shoots are pruned back to within two or three eyes of the 
old wood : and in the Maixh following, just before the plant begins to 
break, it is taken out of the box, the root and ball reduced, and re- 
potted in fresh compost. Abundance of water in the following season 
enables the plant to set its fruit without the aid of artificial impregnation. 
A strong plant will produce forty fruit in a season in regular succession, 
from the end of June till Christmas." 

The lam-el-leaved granadilla, the pomme de Uane of the French, or the 
muruevja of the South Americans, is most extensively cultivated in the 
tropics, being agreeable to most palates. It has often fruited in the 
stoves of this country, treated hke any other stove cHmbiug plant. The 
same treatment as recommended for the last wiU also be suitable to this 
species. 

The purple -fruited gi*anadilla {Passiflora eduUs of some authors, P. 



380 



THE TROPICAL FRUIT STOVE. 



incarnata of others) produces immense quantities of fruit, which is about 
as large as a hen's egg, and much of the same shape ; green at first, but 
when ripe of a beautiful plum-colour. It is a native of the Brazils, and 
was introduced to England fi'om Portugal in 1810. Such is the rapid 
growth of this species, that a plant has been known to extend in one 
season over forty feet of glass, and on the same space produce fi'om four 
to five hundred fruit. 

All the edible species of Passiflora will produce theh fruit veiy well in 
large pots ; " but it is best to plant them in an angle of a stove, which 
has been parted off, either by boards or brickwork, as low as the pit goes. 
At the bottom of the ca^ity formed by this division should be laid some 
brick mbbish, over which may be thrown a little dead tan, and the whole 
be then filled with equal parts of very old tan, and a compost of leaf- 
mould and veiy rotten dung, wherein the roots will strike freely, and will 
even spread through the partition into the pit. They do not require the 
full heat of a pine stove, for they flourish best in a temperature of from 
sixty-five to seventy degrees ; but they will not bring their fruit to per- 
fection if kept in a common greenhouse or conservatory, though they 
v^ill gi'ow and flower in it. The shoots as they advance may be trained 
near to and under the inchned glass of the stove ; the first flowers will 
appear in ]\Iay, and the blooming will continue to September, the fruit 
setting the whole time : but if it does not set well it will be advisable to 
impregnate stigmas, by applying the pollen with a feather. As they 
grow, the very strong shoots should be cut out fi'om their origin, for these 
do not bear fruit so abundantly as those which are less vigorous ; and 
the fruiting branches must not be shortened on any account. The tem- 
perature must be kept up equally during the time of flowering and fruit- 
ing ; the crop will begin to come in in August, and will continue until 
Januai'y, but the earher produce is the best. When the crop is all 
off, which vdll be early in January, the heat must be reduced to about 
fifty degrees, so as to check and stop the gi'owth. This being effected, 
the shoots must be well cut in. As little old wood as possible, besides 
the main stem, which rises from the pit to the glass, and a few pieces 
(about two or three feet of each) of the old branches, should be retained ; 
for all that is to be trained under the glass to bear in each year, ought 
to be the grovrth of two years' standing. In this dormant and reduced 
state it is to ])e kept dming Januaiy and Febniary, after which the neces- 
sar}' heat may be apphed to cause it to resume its functions for the 
ensuing season." — SaUne, in Hort. Trans, 



FIGS, THE DrRIOT«r- 



381 



LARGE FIG OF SIEURA LEONE {FlCUS BrassU), SMALL FIG OF SIERRA 

LEONE (^Ficus s^. ?), INDIAN FIG {Opuutia Flcus Indica, 0. vulgaris^ 
and Other species). 

The t.Tvo former are natives of Sierra Leone, as their name implies, 
and are held in high esteem both for the good quality of the fruit 
and the abundance with which it is produced. The fruit of Ficus Brassii, 
a well-known plant in our stoves, is about the size of our white Ischia fig. 
The tree is of moderate growth, and produces its fruit abundantly on the 
old wood. 

The Indian fig is a name by which several species of Opuntia are known 
in the ti'opics, particularly such as are fruit-bearing. They are considered 
as wholesome, and although the taste be not very agreeable to most 
Europeans at first, after they have eaten of them several times they 
generally become veiy fond of them. Opuntia vulgaris, as well as O. 
Ficus indicay have been both fruited in the open ah' in this country, and 
the former in a stove so eaiiy as 1750, in Scotland, by Justice. 

To fruit these plants with certainty will require a temperature of from 
fifty to fifty-five degrees dming winter, and increased to eighty or ninety 
degrees during summer, excepting for 0. vulgaris, which has been fruited 
in the open air by the late Braddick and others, and has stood as a hardy 
plant in front of an old greenhouse in the Addelston nm'sery for three- 
fourths of a centmy. 

A rich, well-drained soil, with a mixture of giitty matter, is the most 
proper for them, and pots of a large size are better than planting them 
out in the borders of the house. 

THE CURION {Durio zebethinus). 

This tree, which is a native of the East Indies, was only partially 
introduced into the European gardens in 1825. ^Ye notice it here with 
the view that some intelhgent horticulturist may be induced to obtain 
plants of it, which we beheve may be had of the Messrs. Loddiges, or 
the Horticultural Society. Those having communication with the Cal- 
cutta garden would find no difficulty in procuring it from that source. 
Ptumphius says it is by much the most excellent fruit of Incha. We 
presume that by the same mode of culture which is practised in the case 
of other rare tropical fruit trees, particularly if grown in a house expressly 
set apart for the purpose, this fruit might be produced in tolerable 
perfection. 



382 



THE TROPICAL FRUIT STOVE. 



COCOA-NUT TREE (Cocos nuciferd). 

This magnificent East Indian palm grows to a great height in its native 
country. It is by no means rare in botanical collections in Europe, nor 
are its uses and history unfamiliar. The follo^Ying is the mode of culture 
recommended in the Encij. of Gard., as the most Ukely to induce it to 
produce its fruit in this country : — " The nuts are to be planted where 
they are designed to remain, as the tree will not bear transplanting unless 
very young. In a moist heat they will push in six weeks or two months. 
To cultivate for fruit, plant in the centre of the area of a house, twenty- 
five feet wide, and either lofty or with a moveable roof, which will admit 
of being raised as the tree advances in height. In this way, with a strong 
heat, there can be no doubt this tree would produce fruit in England ; 
but even if it did not, or did not for a great many years, the magni- 
ficence of its appearance, under such a mode of treatment, would com- 
pensate a curious horticulturist for the labour and expense. Though 
the cocoa-nuts to be obtained in shops are supposed to be gathered before 
they are ripe, yet they have been found to grow with no other care than 
planting in a large pot or box in rich earth, and plunging in a bark bed. 

It may be observ ed here that this is almost the only palm that could be 
cultivated in this country for perfecting its fruit : for the others being 
dioecious plants, unless a great number were grown together, there would 
be no legitimate means of impregnating the female blossom." — {See Palm 
Stove.) 

THE JAMROSADE, OR ROSE APPLE (Eugenia jambos). 

This is a well-known inhabitant of our stoves, and was cultivated so 
early as 1768 by the celebrated Phillip Miller. It is a native of the East 
Indies, and attains the height of from twenty to thirty feet. The fruit 
is about as large as a hen's egg, and rose-scented, in flavour much re- 
sembling a ripe apricot. It appears that there are several varieties of this 
fruit, differing in size and colour — a circumstance easily imagined, as we 
find it to be the case in most fruits that are esteemed or have been long 
cultivated, particularly from seeds, as by that means new varieties are 
perpetually originating, as may be instanced in the case of the apple, 
pear, and our other domestic fruits. The late Professor Thouin, of the 
Jardin des Plantes, at Paris, cultivated a white variety very successfully 
for several years. By his experiments it would appear that the plants 
require a high temperature and moist atmosphere, for all his endeavours 
to harden them by exposure, even diuing summer, failed. 



GRAPES, APPLES, COFFEE TREE. 



383 



COUNTRY GRAPES (VitlS CCBmo). 

A native of Sierra Leone, a half-shrubby climber : the fruit is produced 
in small bunches, and is round, black, of a rather acid, not over-pleasant 
taste. It produces immense crops of fruit, and could be cultivated suc- 
cessfully in a Tropical Fruit house in this country. 

couxTRY CURRANTS {Antidesma sp. ? ) 

A native also of Sierra Leone, producing plenty of fruit upon small 
bushes, and of very easy cultui-e. 

MOXKEY APPLE {Artmj2)hylla Laurind). 

A native of Congo and Sierra Leone. It attains the height of forty or 
fifty feet natm*ally, but would of coui'se by cultivation produce fi'uit at 
a much less height. The fruit in size and form resembles a pigeon's 
egg, red on the sunny side, and yellow on that which is most shaded ; 
the favour is something between that of a nectarine and a plum. 

MALAY APPLE {Eugerda malaccensis). 

A native of the South Sea Islands, resembhng in general appearance 
the Jamrosade, or rose apple. The fruit is about an inch and a hak^ in 
diameter, fleshy, sweet- smelling, and agreeable both to the taste and 
sight, as well as wholesome and nutritious. Its cultivation is not different 
from that of other tropical Eugenias, many species of which are inhabit- 
ants of our plant stoves. 

COFFEE TREE {Coffea orobico). 

Arabia is generally supposed to have been the native region of this 
tree, although some naturalists have adduced reasons to show that it might 
have passed into that country from Persia, whose inhabitants are sup- 
posed to have received it from Ethiopia, where it has been in use from 
time immemorial. " The migration of the cofl'ee shi-ub fi'om Arabia to 
the tropical regions of the ^Yest, was effected circuitously by way of 
Europe. About the year 1690, the then governor of Eatavia, Van Hoom, 
procured some berries of the coffee ti'ee from ^locha, in Arabia Felix, 
and raised many plants in the island of Java, whence he sent one to 
Nicholas AVitsen, a burgomaster of Amsterdam, and the governor of the 



384 



THE TROPICAL FRUIT STOVE. 



Dutch East Indian Company. This plant arrived in a healthy condition^ 
and was placed in the botanical gardens of Amsterdam, v>'here, by care- 
fol management, it was made to bear seeds, and in the course of a few 
years many young plants were raised from its produce. 

Many years elapsed, however, ere the progeny of the Amsterdam 
plant was conveyed to a more congenial climate, and where it could be 
rendered practically useful. It was not till the year 1718, that the 
colonists of Surinam began to form coffee plantations, and nearly ten years 
more had passed before the plant was conveyed by the French to their 
colony in Martinico. The advantages attending the cultivation were 
now, however, become so manifest, that it quickly spread through the 
neighbouring islands. In 1728, Sir Nicholas Laws first introduced the 
coffee plant into Jamaica, where it was cultivated on the estate since called 
Temple Hall, in Laguanea. In four years after that period it had already 
proved itself of sufficient importance to command the attention of the 
legislature of that island, and an act of council and assembly was passed 
to encourage its growth. 

The annual consumption of coffee in Europe has been estimated to 
amount to 110,500 tons, of which it is calculated that 10,000 tons are 
consumed in Britain alone.'' — Tropical Agriculturist. 

The culture of the coffee as a plant of ornament is exceedingly simple, 
and where there is room to spare for them in a large garden, a con- 
siderable supply may be obtained from half-a-dozen trees. At one 
period of our practice we had twenty-four of these trees in a full bearing 
state, and annually procured from them several pounds weight of berries, 
which when roasted and ground in the usual manner produced to the 
proprietor very excellent coffee of his own growth. These trees, for 
want of better accommodation, were grown in a large vinery from February 
till October, and required little other attention than that of a liberal 
supply of water. From the latter end of October till February they are 
placed in a pine stove, as they are very impatient of cold. The fragrance 
of their blossom, and the beautiful red appearance of the ripe fruit, with 
successive crops of berries in various stages of growth, had a very good 
effect. They are propagated most readily from seeds, which will vegetate 
and grow rapidly, and plants three years old under good management 
will produce fruit, and continue for many years. 

THE LoauAT (Mcspilus japordca). 
This is a native of Japan, which has been long an inhabitant of our 
greenhouses, and indeed has in many instances been found to succeed in 



THE MAXGOSTAX. 



385 



the open air trained against a wall. The fruit is about the size of a large 
gooseberry, and much like the apple in flavour. The Loquat has produced 
fruit in the gardens of Lord Bagot, in Staffordshire, who gives the following 
outline of its cultiu'e : — " The plan I have usually followed," says his lord- 
ship, " has been to give it a winter, (out of doors) during the months of 
July, August, and September, and about the middle of October to replace 
it in a very warm situation in the tan. This summer, however, I was 
obliged to alter my mode, for just at the moment when I was going to 
put it out for its winter, it became covered with at least twenty of the 
finest flowers possible ; I was, therefore, obliged to let it remain where it 
was. The present year's treatment, therefore, is an exception to the 
former practice ; under that, it usually breaks into flower about the end of 
December, and the fruit becomes ripe in March and April." 



THF MANGOSTAX (Garcinia mangostana). 

This splendid tree is a native of the AJolucca islands, attaining the 
height of about twenty feet. It has been introduced, and is successfully 
cultivated, in Java and Malacca, where it is much esteemed. Dr. Garcin, 
after whom the genus was named, describes it as the most dehcious of 
all the East Indian fruits, and says that a great quantity of it may be 
eaten without inconvenience, and recommends it as the only fruit that 
sick people may eat of without scmple. 

The fruit is round, about the size of an ordinary orange, of a dehcious 
flavour, partaking of the strawberry and the gi'ape. They are propagated 
by the usual modes, viz., seeds and cuttings. Seeds, however, soon lose 
their vegetative properties, and are with difficulty imported in a sound state: 
cuttings are readily rooted, and soon make strong plants. It has been 
long known in this country, and is noticed by Miller, who gives the fol- 
lowing as the outline of its culture : — Sow the seeds in tubs of earth in 
theh native country, and when the plants have obtained strength, they 
may be brought to Europe ; but there should be great care taken to screen 
them fi'om salt water in their passage, as also not to give them too much 
water when in a cool or temperate .chmate. \Vhen the plants arrive in 
Em'ope they should be carefidly transplanted, each into a pot filled with 
light kitchen garden mould, and plunged in the tan bed, and shaded from 
the sun till they have taken fresh root ; then treat them as suggested for 
other stove plants." 

c c 



386 



THE TROPICAL FRUIT STOVE. 



MOXKEY BREAD {Adatisonia digitata). 

This tree, of the enonnoas size of which such wonderful accounts have 
been reported, was not found by ^Ix. Don, in his journey to Sierra Leone, 
to exceed that of a large apple tree. In regard to its fruit we may 
obseiTe. that it is of considerable size, containing a farinaceous pulp full 
of seeds, tasting something like gingerbread, but with a pleasant acid 
flavom', It is pretty common in the stoves in this country, and is found 
to be so easily cultivated that any particular notice of it would be 
superfluous. 

SWEET PiSHAMiy ( Carjjodinus dulcis). 

This new genus of plants was estabhshed by the learned and amiable 
Robert Brown, Esq., in whose herbarium specimens of it exist : but we 
beheve that, although obsei-ved by ^Ir. Don growing plentifully on the 
Maitello-tower Hill, near Tree Town, Sierra Leone, and by other col- 
lectors, it has not as yet reached us in a Uvrng state. Were its merits as 
a fruit-bearing tree sufficiently known, we doubt not but that it would 
soon find its way to this countiy. 

It is described by ]\Ir. Don as a climbing shrub, producing fruit re- 
sembhng the lime, and growing pendulous either singly or in pairs. The 
pidp is agreeable and svreet, and when broken yields a quantity of sweet 
milky juice. There is another species, which produces fruit more abun- 
dantly than this, but much less agi-eeable to the taste. 

THE MAXGO (Mangifero. indica.) 

This fruit is a native of the East In'dies. but has been long ago intro- 
duced and successfully cuirivated in most of the West Indian islands, 
particularly in Jamaica, where several varieties of gi'eater or less merit 
are cultivated. The late Sh Stamford RaiSes assm'es us that there are 
above forty varieties of mango known in Java aloue. 

The fruit is described as a kidney-shaped drupe, or berry, covered with 
a smooth, resinous, pale yellovrish. or half-red skin, containing an oval, 
compressed stone, witliin which is a soft and pmpy kernel. It is con- 
sidered wholesome, and is exceeded in point of f avo'ur by no other Tropical 
fruit, the pine-apple only excepted. Two varieries of the mango have 
been fi'uited in this country bv the Earl of Powis. which, in honour of his 



THE MAXGO. 



387 



lordship, have been named the Red and Yellow Powis Mangoes, of which 
the following notice has been published in the Hort, Trans, vol. vi. p. 551 : 
The red Powis mango was ripened in the garden at Walcot, in the be- 
ginning of September ; and the tree which bore it produced at the same 
time thirty-five other fruit, of unequal size, but of equal excellence in 
flavour. In form it resembled a compressed oval, with one end a little 
curved inwards ; the skin was of a rich ohve colour, becoming green to- 
wards the apex, and being deeply stained on the exposed side with bright 
crimson, breaking into spots of a darker colour. The flesh was deep 
yellow, filled with an abundant juice, very tender, but fibrous next the 
stone, from which it was inseparable. The flavour was sweet, rather 
luscious, highly perfumed, with a decided taste of tiu^entine, but diffused 
in a most admirable proportion, so as to produce a very agreeable and novel 
effect upon the palate. This resinous taste was more concentrated in the 
skin, in which it was combined with a shght proportion of acid. 

" Of the yellow Powis mango, one fruit only was produced, which 
ripened in the beginning of October. The skin was of a pale, dull, 
yellow-ochre colour, a Uttle brighter and more orange-coloured towards 
the stalk, and covered over, when minutely examined, with numerous 
paler specks, ^^^len fresh gathered it was covered with a delicate bloom, 
which it did not wholly lose after having been kept nearly a fortnight. 
It did not appear to differ much in taste from the first ; perhaps was a 
Uttle more luscious, and also in a shght degree more fibrous. 

" It does not appear that the management under which these mangoes 
were ripened possesses much pecuharity. The plants are in pots, plunged 
in the tan pit of a good stove, which is maintained at a temperature of 
from seventy to ninety-six degrees, by means of a particular apphcation 
of hot water. Lord Powis conceives that it is this mode of heating 
which has mainly contributed to force the plants to produce their fruit." 
We are rather surprised at the weakness of the concluding conjecture, 
knowing that heat is the same powerful agent, whether generated and 
diffused by smoke-flues, steam, or hot water. 

The mango is easily propagated by cuttings, and there can be no doubt 
but that it might be produced in. great abundance in a Tropical Fruit 
house, or even in an ordinary^ stove. The principal point is to procure 
good varieties, as many of them are, like some of our apples and pears, 
hardly worth cultivating. Good varieties can be obtained from Jamaica. 
We once had a mango tree presented to us by a gentleman who had 
it dug up out of his garden in Jamaica, and transported to England, 
because he was certain of the excellent quality of the sort ; but it was 

c c 2 



388 



THE TROPICAL FRUIT STOVE. 



unfortunately lost, two years after its introduction, through circumstances 
over which vre had no control. 

THE CHOCOLATE TREE {Tlieohroma Cacao). 

The Cacao tree is extensively cultirated in many of the settlements in 
Spanish America, particularly in ^lexico, where it has been raised for 
an unknown length of time. The cacao tree is thus described in TJte 
Library of Entertaining Knowledge : — " It seldom rises above the height 
of twenty feet ; its leaves are large, oblong, and pointed. The flowers, 
which are small, and of a pale red colour, spring from the large 
branches ; they are succeeded by oval pointed pods, that contain a 
white pithy substance, which is sweet, but disagreeable, and surround- 
ing numerous seeds : these are the cacao of commerce." 

The Theobroma is increased by seeds, and also by cuttings, and require? 
only the cultm-e of a well-regulated stove to grow it to perfection. In 
its native coimtiy it requires the growth of six or seven years from 
seed to attain a fruitful state ; therefore, under the influence of artificial 
cultm-e we may naturally conclude that a tree, enjoying good health 
and proper treatment, will not produce fniit under that period, if so soon. 

THE SUGAR-CANE {Sacchurum officinarum.) 

The sugar-cane, although not a fruit-bearing tree, is of sufficient im- 
portance to demand a place in a stove dedicated to the cultivation of 
Tropical Plants, as the produce of it is interesting to us, as ministering so 
largely to om' comforts and luxuries. 

The sugar-cane has been cultivated in our stoves since 1597, and, con- 
sequently, is one of their oldest inhabitants. It is of easy culture, 
requiting plenty of heat, and a moist, rich soil. With us it attains the 
height of seven or eight feet, but never flowers. Dming the short period 
that the Empress Josepliine enjoyed the title of wife to the most capricious 
of men, the sugar-cane was grown upon a pretty extensive scale in the 
royal gardens at Paris, and from the produce of the canes so cultivated 
a smaU sugar-loaf was made and presented to the Empress, who, it is 
weU known, was a most enthusiasric promoter of horticultm'e and botany. 

TAMARIND TREE {Tamariudus indicus). 
The tamarind tree has been long an inhabitant of our stoves and 



TROPICAL SPICES. 



389 



greenhouses ; it has not, hov/ever, that we are aware of, yet produced 
fruit in the gardens of Europe. 

This tree is a native of the East and West Indies, and also of Arabia 
and Egypt. The pods produced on the West Indian trees are from two 
to five inches long, and contain two, three, or four seeds ; the East 
Indian ones are twice as long, and contain nearly double the number of 
seeds. The crop of pods is usually ripe in the West Indies about 
June, July, and August ; they are then gathered, and when cleared of 
the shelly fragments, are placed in casks, in regular and compact 
layers, over which boiling syrup of sugar is poured, to fill up all 
cavities : they are then fit for exportation. The East Indian tamarinds 
are said to be preserved without sugar. The boiling syrup appears to 
have little effect upon their vegetative functions, for w^e have frequently 
obtained plenty of young plants from the seeds taken out of the tamarinds 
in their preserved state. It might be worth the trial to see how far the 
seeds of other Tropical Plants might be safely imported by being packed 
in a similar manner. 

The tamarind tree is of very easy culture, requiring only the tempera- 
ture of the stove, and a loam and peat soil. It was remarked by Miller, 
that although he had several plants of twenty years' growth, they had 
shown no disposition to produce their flowers, and we beheve this has 
been universally the case. 



TROPICAL SPICES. 

it is not less singular than true, that the plants which produce the 
most esteemed spices are all natives of the tropics, and also that not 
one of them has been found to produce its fruit in the open air 
of Britain. The use of spices is of the highest antiquity, and Frankin- 
cense and Myrrh are names handed down to us by the earliest historians. 
" Spices have always been regarded as luxurious acquisitions, while their 
small comparative bulk, and consequent facility of transport, caused them 
to be amongst the first articles of commerce obtained from remote 
countries. The inhabitants of more temperate regions have, therefore, 
for ages been in the enjoyment of most of the most delicious aromatics 
fostered by a tropical sun." — Library of Entertaining Knoivledge, 

Arabia Felix is said to have obtained its name from the ancient 



390 



THE TROPICAL FRUIT STOVE. 



geographers on account of its odoriferous plants ; and as the rest of the 
then civilized world procured their spices from that country, they, in 
then- imperfect knowledge of geography, concluded that these spices 
were its natural produce, not considering that it was possible for this 
supply to be obtained from a country much more remote. It is con- 
jectured, and on pretty good authority, that the spices presented by the 
Queen of Sheba to the \^^ise monarch of Judah were procured from 
Ceylon, or the islands still farther to the east. 

. THE CINNAMON TREE {LauTUS cinnamomum) . 

This tree has been an inhabitant of our stoves since 1763. In its 
natural state it attains the height of from twenty to thirty feet, but 
when cultivated for its bark it is kept cut like a coppice, numerous 
shoots springing from the roots, which are not allowed to rise above 
ten feet. " In three years after planting, each tree affords one shoot 
fit for cutting ; at the fifth year from three to five shoots may be taken," 
and in eight years it yields as many as ten shoots, each an inch in 
thickness. \Mien from ten to twelve years old it is considered in per- 
fection, but will continue much longer, as an extension of the root en- 
ables it to send up fresh supplies of shoots for years. The shoots are 
cut when of the above thickness, and then into lengths of from two 
to three feet, and when properly dried it is fit for exportation. Besides 
Ceylon, it grows plentifully in IMalabar, Cochin-China, Sumatra, and the 
Eastern Islands. It has been cultivated in the Brazils, the Mauritius, 
India, Jamaica, and other places. The soil in which it thrives best is nearly 
pure quartz sand. That of the cinnamon garden near Colombo, in Cey- 
lon, was found by Dr. Daw to consist of 98*5 of silicious sand, and 1-0 
only of vegetable matter in 100 parts. " The garden is nearly on a level 
with the lake of Colombo : its situation is sheltered : the climate is re- 
mai'kably damp : showers are frequent, and the temperature is high and 
uncommonly equable." — Davy^s Ceylon. 

The Cinnamon tree is considered difficult to cultivate in England, even 
in our best regulated stoves. The Messrs. Loddiges appear to be more 
successful in this respect than most cultivators, and that may perhaps be 
accounted for by their keeping their stoves much warmer than is gene- 
rally done by the best gardeners. A mixture of sandy loam and peat 
is recommended by Sweet as the best kind of soil, the pots being 
weU drained prior to the plants being placed in them. But it is 



THE CASSIA. CAMPHOR. CLOVE. 391 

very probable tliat a soil of a more sandy nature may be more congenial 
to it. 

THE CASSIA {Laurus cassia.) 

The Cassia of commerce is chiefly siipphecl fi'om China, and it is alto- 
gether a much hardier plant than the cinnamon, and succeeds better in 
cultivation. The same soil and ti'eatment. hoveTer, are requisite. 

CAMPHOE. {Laurus camplioroX 

The Camphor tree is a hardy greenhouse plant, and is of the easiest 
culture, requhing only to be protected from fi'ost. Camphor is obtained 
by subjecting the roots and smaher branches to distiUation. It is pro- 
bable that the whole family of Lam'us might be gi'afted or enarched on 
the common Laurus nolilis with success. 

CLOVE {Caryopliyllus aromaticus). 

It is a curious fact, that although Europeans have known the use of this 
spice for more than two thousand years, yet it is httle more than three 
centuries since they discovered from whence it was obtained. The tree 
was introduced into this coimtry in 179 7. by Sir Joseph Banks, but it has 
been found so diffictilt to cultivate, that veiy few specimens of it are at 
this time to be met with, even iu om^ best botanical gardens. The diffi- 
culty in its cultivation is not confined entirely to the gardens of Europe, 
for we find that even in the tropics it is not eashy estabhshed. An ac- 
count of its cultme in Dominica by ^l. Buee is given iu the Tropical 
Agricultmist, a work replete with exceherit infonnation on ah that relates 
to such matters. After several disappoiutments, M. Buee found that the 
clove succeeded best " in a sterile soil, composed of a yellowish or reddish 
stiff clay, such as that in which the pimento flomishes, but which, for the 
generahty of crops, is scarcely fit for cultivatiou." As the clove has 
liitherto been considered of difficult cultivation, we may be excused for 
making the foUowing quotation fi'om the practice of M. Buee, as the 
intelligent Enghsh gardener may draw from it some useful conclusions : 
" The seeds were sovtq about sis: inches apart from each other, in beds. 
Over these beds some small frames were erected, about three feet from 
the ground, and plantain leaves were spread on the top, in order to 
shelter the young plants from the sun. The leaves were allowed gradually 
to decay, and at the end of niue months the yoimg plants, which by 



392 



THE TROPICAL PRUIT STOVE. 



that time were strong, were allowed to receive the benefit of the sun ; but 
if not protected frorn it when very young, they were found to droop and 
die. When transplanted they grew very luxuriantly, and, at the end of 
fifteen months after their removal, attained the height of from three to 
four feet.'' 

From the work above quoted we learn that the cloves sent from St. 
Vincent's to England in 1800, w^ere obtained from trees eight feet high, 
having a stem only two inches in diameter. Trial was made in this 
island of the relative growth of the plant on different soils. It grew 
sickly on land that was not manured, but on land which had received 
this preparation it flourished. It should be planted in a situation where 
it is not exposed to high winds." In the Ency. of Plants it is stated to 
grow freely in loam and peat, and that ripened cuttings are not difficult 
to root in sand, in a moist heat, under a hand-glass. Peat and loam is, 
however, we fear, much too light a soil, and we would rather recommend 
a trial of strong brick earthy loam, with very little manure, and well 
exposed to the weather before using. 

GINGER {Zingiber officinale). 

It is now matter of dispute whether the amomum which Pliny describes 
be identical v\ith the ginger of the present day, or not ; be this as it may, 
the importation of ginger forms no inconsiderable item in the imports of 
this country. We find that in 1830, no less than 5491 cwt. w^ere received, 
producing a revenue of ^2800. The cultivation of ginger is exceedingly 
simple, requiring much less care than a crop of potatoes in Europe. That 
ginger would be worth cultivating in this country as a plant of commerce, 
we do not mean to insinuate, any more than that any of the other 
tropical productions w^e have been treating of could be grown here at a 
cheaper rate than they could be imported from their native country. It 
is the pleasure and satisfaction that the proprietor would derive from 
growing the productions of the tropics within our northern latitudes, and 
the hope of recalling to his mind perhaps pleasing associations, should 
he have been for a time a resident in those countries ; and besides that 
species of gratification, there is the pleasure of showing how much the art 
of man can render subservient to his wishes the whole vegetable kingdom^ 
and place upon his table the fruits of the torrid, frigid, and temperate 
zones. 

The cultivation of ginger for the purpose of making the most delicious 
and wholesome of all tropical preserves, namely, proserved ginger, which 



GINGER, PIMENTO, 



393 



cannot be done 'with imported roots, is perfectly within the means of 
almost every one who has a hot-house, or even hot-bed. To cultivate 
ginger for this purpose, plant the tubers, before they spring into shoot, 
into flat boxes, or pots, a foot in depth, and place them in any part of a 
well-regulated plant stove, pine house, &c. Supply them with water as 
they may require, until autumn, when the leaves begin to turn yellow and 
the stalks to diy up and wither, a. which period decrease the quantity of 
water until it be entirely mthheld, when the stems die down to the surface 
of the mould. During winter they should be kept dry, and excited again 
in spring. If the purpose be to increase the number of roots for the 
purpose of obtaining stock, separate the tubers and replant them again ; 
but if it be desired to have part of the produce taken for use, separate 
only enough for stock, leaving such as are intended for immediate use in 
the pots or boxes, giving a little water to them to cause them to push 
into shoots. \Yhen these shoots have attained the height of five or six 
inches, they should be then taken up for use. A. deep pit, prepared with 
hot leaves, tan, or dung, or even a deep frame, placed on a common hot- 
bed, would be a very proper place to plant out the ginger tubers, in rows 
one foot apart, and the plants six inches distant in the line. A moderate 
bottom heat, maintained till about the end of June or beginning of July? 
would produce a sulScient quantity of green ginger roots, from three or 
four hghts, to supply a large family. 

The best way to preserve ginger is thus : when the young stalks are not 
more than five inches long, the roots should be taken up and scalded, 
w^ashed in cold water, and then entirely peeled. '^This operation re- 
quires three or four days for its completion, the water being freqiLently 
changed during that time. The roots being cleaned, are now placed in 
jars and covered with a weak syrup, in which they are allowed to re- 
main for two days, at the end of which period this is pom'ed off and 
replaced vrith a stronger syrup. This operation is repeated two or 
three times, at each time the s}Tup being made stronger, until it be- 
comes a rich and thick consistency, and the ginger appears bright 
and nearly transparent. The removed syrups are not wasted : they 
are made into a pleasant beverage, which is known in the "West Indies 
under the name of cool drinks — Tropical Agriculturist, p. 322. 

PIMENTO OR ALLSPICE (Afyrtics pimentd) — 

Is a native of South America and the ^yest Indies ; it is also well known 
as a stove plant in our gardens. It is one of the few Tropical Fruits that 



394 



THE TROPICAL FRUIT STOVE. 



are produced in general cultivation vnih us. It is very productive, one 
hundred and fifty pounds weight of the fruit being often procured from 
a single tree. In the year 1835. we saw, in the large Tropical House of 
the Due d'Aremberg, at Enghien, in the Netherlands, a pimento tree 
on which there could not be less than six or seven pounds weight of 
fruit in the fullest perfection. 

In regard to propagation and culture, this tree differs not from that 
of other species of the genus Myrtus, or, indeed, of hard-wooded stove 
plants in general. 

NUTMEG {Myristica moschata). 

Two species are obtained from this tree, viz., the nutmeg and mace. 
The former is the stone or kernel, as it were, and the latter is the 
membranous covering immediately over the shell. The nutmeg is rare 
in our gardens, but is capable of cultivation by following the same 
routine as recommended for the Cinnamon (Lauriis cinmmomum). 



395 



SELECT LIST OF TROPICAL FRUITS. 



Achocon {Leonia glycicarpa). 
African Custard Apple {Anona senega- 
lensis). 

Alligator Apple {Anona palusfris). 
Alligator Pear {Laurus persica). 
Akee Tree (Blighia sapid a). 
Ancllo^'^' Pear {Grias cauliflora). 
Barbadoes Gooseberry (PeresMa acu- 
leata). 

Bastard Guava {Eugenia pseudo-Psi- 
dium). 

Banana {Musa sapientum). 
Black Plum {Vitex umhrosa). 
Bread Fruit {Atrocarpus incisa). 
Bread - nut Tree ( Brosimum Alicas- 
trum). 

Blimbing {Averrhoa caramhola). 
Butter and Tallow Tree {Pentadesma 

hutijracea). 
Bengal Quince {j^gle Marmelos). 
Callimato Tree {Chrgsobalanus Icaco.) 
Caraunda {Cira^sa carandus). 
Country Plum {Spondius, various sp.). 

Grapes {Vitis ccesia). 

Currants {Antadesma sp. ?). 

Cberries {MalpMghia, various 

sp.). 

Cherimoyer {Anona CJiei'imoUa). 

Cocoa-nut {Cocos nucifera). 

Cocoa Plum {Chrysohalanus Icaco). 

Cheremi {Averrhoa acida). 

Casbew Nuts ( Anacardium Occi- 
dent ale). 

Coffee Tree {Coffea arahica). 

Custard Apple {Anona reticulata). 

Durion, the {Durio zehetliinus). 

Earth-nut {Arachis hi/pogcea). 

Fig (large, of Sierra Leone), {Ficus 
Brassii). 

Fig(smairof Sierra Leone), {Ficns sp. ?). 
Guava, Red {Psidiian pomiferum). 
Guava, Cattley's ( Psidium Cattley- 
anum). 

Guava, Wild {Psidium pyr if erum). 
Garlic Pear {Crata>va Tapia), 



Gingerbread Plum {Piranarium macro- 
pliyllum). 

Granadilla {Passiflora quadrangularis). 
Apple - fruited, or Sweet 

Calabash {Passiflora mali- 

f or mis). 

Laiu'el - leaved, or Water 

Melon {Passiflora lauri- 
folia). 

PmiDle-fruited, ( Passiflora 

edidis ? incarnata ?) 

Flesh-colom-ed, {Passiflora 

incarnata Linn.). 
Hog Plum, or Yellow Plum {Spondi^ 

myrohalanus). 
Jambrosade, or Rose Apple {Eugenia 
jam bos). 

Jack Fruit {Atrocarpus integrifolidy. 

Jujube {Zizypli us jujube). 

Indian Fig. There are several species 
of Opuntia that produce fruit in their 
native country, and are hence called 
Indian Figs, 'or Prickly Pears : of 
these the principal are' 0. Ficus in- 
dica, O. vulgaris, O. monocantJm. 

Lanseh {Lansium domesticum). 

Launzan {Buchanania latifolia). 

Lee-chee {Euphoria Litchi). 

Long-yen {Eujjhoria Longan). 

Lo-quat {Mespilus japonica). 

Lotus (the true), {Zizyphus Lotus). 

Locust Tree, or Xety of the Negroes 
{Inga BigJobosa). 

Malay Apple {Eugenia malaccensis). 

]Mammee Tree {Slam.mea americana). 

IMammee x\pple {Mamrnea africana). 

IVIango Tree {Mangifera indica). 

JNIangosteen {Garcinia mangostana). 

Murfdoo, or Elephant's Apple {^gle 
marmelos). 

jNIelon Thistle {Melocactus communis). 

Monkey Bread {Adaiisonia digitafa). 

Monkey Apple {Anisophillea laurina). 

Otaheite Chestnut {Inocarpus edulis). 

Plantain Tree {Musa paradisiaca). 



396 THE TROPICAL 



Pinaou (Anona punctata). \ 

Pinaioua {Anona longifoUo). 

Prickly Pear (Various species of Opun- \ 

iia). I 

Rsliamin (sour), (Carpodinus acidus). \ 

Pisliamin (sweet), (Carpodiniis dulcis), | 

Pigeon Plum (small), {Chrysohalanus ■ 

dlipticus). \ 

Picreon Plum (yellow), {Chrysobalanm \ 

lute urn). 

Queule, or Keule {Gomortega nitlda). > 

Rambutan (Xephelium lappaceum). ! 



FRUIT STOVE. 



Rou^e-skinned Grey Plum f Parl- 

narium eiceUum). 
Sapodilla Plum {Achm^ sapota). 
Sea-side Grape (Cocotoba uvifera). 
Sweet Sop {Anona squamosa). 
Sour Sop {Anona muricata). 
Star Apple aonsr-leaved), {jChrysophyl- 

luni macrophyllum). 
Star Apple (obovate-leaved), iChryso- 

pkyUum obovatum). 
Tomi-tomi {Falcourtia inermh). 
Tamarind (Tamanndus Indicu^ 



397 



THE SCIT AMINES, OR REEDY PLANT .STOVE. 

The natural order ScitaminecB^ although by no means extensive, is cer- 
tainly one of the most beautiful families in the whole vegetable kingdom ; 
and so very distinct are the species wliicli compose it from all others, 
especially in external habits and forms, that they accord ill in appearance 
when cultivated indiscriminately amongst other Tropical Plants. There 
are also some particulars in their cultivation which differ from that 
followed with plants generally. To this order belong some plants of 
considerable commercial interest, such as the Ginger {Zingiber officinale). 
Turmeric {Curcuma longa), formerly much used in cookery, and still 
used in the East Indies for dyeing; Galangale {Kcemjpferia galanga), 
Costus, Turmeric, Zedoary, Cardamom, &c. 

To the true order Sciiaminecje, as far as cultivation is concerned, that 
of Cannem may very properly be added. 

Of these two orders there are only two or three species that are not 
natives of the tropics, and it may be stated as rather a curious circum- 
stance, that the greater part of the former possess highly aromatic 
properties, which chiefly reside in the roots ; while these properties 
are entirely wanting in the latter, although similar in structm-e and 
general appearance, and natives of the same localities. 

In neither order does one ligneous plant exist, the whole assemblage 
being made up of stemless herbaceous plants, with long, broad leaves, 
and flowers of great beauty, possessing considerable fragrance. The 
Cannas are well known for their beautiful flowers, and also as forming 
the first genus in the sexual system of botany, being possessed only of 
one stamen and one style. 

This order had never been elucidated in a botanical point of wlew, 
tiU within these few years, when it was completely revised by that 
accomphshed scholar and accurate botanist, the late ^Y. Roscoe, Esq. 
The cultivation of it has also been much neglected hitJierto, notwith- 
standing the high claims it has to our care and attention. 



398 



THE SCITAMIXE^, OR REEDY PLAXT STOVE. 



Alpina nutans is the only plant of the above orders that exceeds eight 
or ten feet in height ; a low striicture is, therefore, aU that is required 
for growing them to perfection. As they are herbaceous, and of course, 
during a considerable period in each season, in a leafless or dormant 
state, they are not well calculated for a place amongst other stove 
plants, which retain their habits and foliage during aU seasons. 

^Vhere it is intended to cultivate these plants in the first degree of 
excellence, it vdU be requisite to appropriate to them a small house or 
deep pit, in which they are to be at all times kept, unless during the 
period when they ai'e in flower ; and as many of them continue for a long 
time in that state, they may then be placed into the regular stove, or, if 
dming summer, in the greenhouse or conservatory. Such a structure 




as that represented in the annexed sketch will be found all that is 
required. In such a house we have for several years flowered about 
thirty species, with httle trouble or expense. The house is thirty 
feet in length and ten feet vride. A flue runs parallel to the front 
wall, entering at the back at one end, and passing out at the other. 
A deep pit occupies the middle, in which the plants are plunged, or 
set on the sm'face, as the case may be, according to then- state of 
growth. The smaller growing kinds are placed on the treUised plat- 
form B, over the flue in front ; and the pots containing dry roots are 
kept on the shelves a, and also over the flue, at the coldest end of the 
house. A foot path passes along the back of the pit, three feet wide, 
and, to economize glass, the roof over this passage is covered with 
slates. Ventilation is admitted by the doors, and also by letting down 
the top tier of roof lights and pushing up the bottom ones. They may 



COXSTRUCTIOX OF STOVE. 



399 



also^be grown to great perfection in pits of the annexed description, 
and when coming into flower be removed to the Moist Plant Stove, where 
they will flower in perfection. 













m 

1 i 











To those who may not immediately comprehend the principle of the 
annexed pit, the follo\sing explanation will he of use. The inventor, 
W. Atkinson, Esq., being aware of the danger which often attends the 
admission of rank steam into forcing-pits, directed his attention to the 




subject, with a ^iew to remedy its defects, and the pit before us is the 
result of his ingenuity. The pit is sunk under the ground level about 
one-half of its height, as shown in the sections, and is heated by hnings, 
apphed in the usual way, round its sides and ends. The interior is filled 
with either dung, tan, or leaves, the latter in all cases to be preferred. 
The heated air from the linings, wliich should be of fresh unfermented 
dung, enters through the back wall, between the open com'ses of brick- 
work ; but the rank steam is prevented at the same time from entering 
immediately to the plants, as it is admitted into the cavity between the 
walls and a partition formed of large AYelsh slates set edgeways, where it 
is confined or let out at the pleasure of the cultivator, as this cavity is 
covered over at top with narrow slips of slate or boarding, which can be 
left on or removed at pleasure. When the intention is to admit the heat 
unaccompanied with steam, this covering is kept on, and the heat finds its 
way into the bed through the slates ; but when it is desirable to admit damp 
vapour or steam, the covering is partially or wholly removed. With 



400 



THE SCITAMIXE.E, OR REEDY PLANT STOVE. 



respect to the front linings, the heat has to find its Tray through Welsh 
slates, which are introduced into the front wall, which is carried up in 
brick piers, between which the slates ai'e set Hke panels ; therefore, no 




noxious vapour can enter from the front linings. The heat from thii 
is chiefly intended to wami the atmosphere of the pit. The advantage of 
this pit is manifest : hke that of ]\rPhail, rank dung may be used with 
safetA% but it has this important advantage over it, — that a much smaller 
quantity is requii'ed to heat it. 

The linings may be covered with boarding, which retains the heat, 
affords shelter from rain, furnishes a convenient passage to walk upon, 
and gives the whole an air of compactness and cleanHuess which never 
can be effected wliile the hnings are left uncovered. We have been thus 
particular in describing the pit. as it is capable of being appHed to almost 
even- pm-pose the plant cultivator can require. It is an excellent propaga- 
tion pit, either for stove or greenhouse plants, >Yhether they are raised by 
seeds, cuttings, graftings, or any of the modes in use. It is well calculated 
for forcing flowers, and also for growing small and young plants. It is a 
good winter habitation for dry bulbous or tuberous-rooted plants that 
requii'e a season of rest, and will also seiwe as a hospital for such as are 
weakly or diseased. 

GEXEHAL ROUTINE OF CULTURE. 

The Scitamineje or reedy plants are aU perennials, and readily multi- 
plied by division of the rcot : many of them, however, produce seeds 
which vegetate freely. The best season for propagating by the foiTner of 
these modes is just before the roots begin to push out into shoots, which 
cii'cumstance occm*s at various seasons, according to the natural habits of 
the species, or the mode of cultivation it has been subjected to the pre- 
ceding year. This, like many other points in horticulture, can only be 
con-ectly ascertained by observation ; for the cultivator who depends upon 



GENERAL ROUTINE OF CULTURE. 



401 



positive data being laid down for him in books, will ever cut a sorry 
appearance compared with him who makes observation his j)rincipal 
guide. The roots being taken out of the pot, and the mould entirely 
displaced, the operator will readily see where he can cut to best advantage, 
that is, to divide the roots so as to cause the fewest wounds. Every 
portion of these roots having a crown or top uninjured, will make a future 
plant : where the object is to multiply them to a great extent, all the old 
root may be completely separated into small pieces, and each of these 
pieces planted in a separate pot, regulating its size according to their 
lengths, &c. Where the object is to cultivate for the production of fine- 
flowering specimens, then the superfluous roots only should be removed, 
and so far as possible the older ones should be selected for removal. A 
separation of the roots annually, or every second year at the farthest, is 
necessary for the perfect cultivation of this tribe. 

The diminutive-growing species, of which there are but few, will require 
small pots ; but the majority, which are strong-growing, large-rooted plants, 
will require very large pots to enable them to produce fine flowers. In- 
deed, if any enterprising cultivator would erect a small house into which 
they could be planted out into a properly prepared bed, there would be 
no doubt of the success. A most intelligent horticulturist has proposed, 
and we have elsewhere noticed it, that many of these plants, particularly 
the Canmsy would flower magnificently if planted out in a border in the 
open garden where artificial heat could be supphed to their roots, and a 
portable frame and glass covering placed over them during their season of 
growth. 

A rich, light, sandy, loamy soil is the most proper for them, and if 
planted in such in large pots, or tubs, and placed in a high temperature 
and humid atmosphere at the time that they begin to show signs of vege- 
tation, or at the period when it would be desirable for them to do so, and 
supplied abundantly with water during their growth, there will be no 
difficulty in flowering them in perfection. When the flowering season is 
past, the plants will then begin to assume a yellowish colour : when such 
is perceived, water should be given in less quantities progressively, until 
withered altogether. When the leaves are dead, the stems should be cut 
down, and the plant placed in a dry, rather cool place to enjoy a season of 
repose. The pots may be laid over on their sides, by which means water 
will be better excluded, for the more dormant the roots remain for a few 
weeks or months, the stronger will they break when excited again in the 
spring, or at the season when vegetation is again to be encouraged in them. 

With these plants, as with bulbs, (as we have already observed when 

i> D 



402 



THE SCITAMINEiE, OR REEDY PLANT STOVE. 



treating of them in the Bulb House), the malpractice of keeping them 
in a constant state of excitement is almost universally followed : nothing 
an be worse than this, more unnatm-al, and indeed fatal to them ; and 
were it not that both are so tenacious of existence, a continuation of the 
practice would not only, as we daily see, prevent them from flowering, 
but would in the end kill them altogether. All plants require a season 
of rest, as much as animals require a season of sleep ; but some plants 
show the effects of being deprived of that natural rest sooner than 
others. 

On the culture of ginger we find the following simple and judicious 
directions detailed by a correspondent in the Gardener's Magazine, vol. \u. 
p. 577 : — " In the beginning of March I pot my ginger into small thirty- 
twos, the compost I use being equal quantities of loam, rotten dung, and 
leaf mould, well mixed together, but not sifted. As soon as I have 
potted it, I give a Httle water to settle the soil, and then place it in a 
nursery or stove, watering very sparingly until it begins to grow, when 
it will require a regular supply. About the 1st of May, I remove it to 
a deep pit, previously prepared with about two feet of half-spent tan in 
the bottom : upon that about eighteen inches of the same compost as 
that in w-hicli I potted the roots. I then turn the plants out of the pots, 
and plant them a foot apart each way, and from four to six feet from the 
glass, giving them a little water immediately, and closing the pit. At 
the back of the pit my plants have generally attained the height of six 
feet, and those in the front, for want of space upwards, have bent and 
sometimes broken theh tops against the glass ; yet I never perceive the 
roots any way inferior to those at the back. If these three things — 
a rich, light compost, a high temperature, and an abundant supply of 
water when the plants are in a growing state — be attended to, they will 
insure a good crop of ginger. 

a Yery little ak is requisite, even in the hottest days of summer. By 
the middle or end of September the ginger will be fit for taking up. I 
then divide the roots with a knife, saving the largest races [roots or 
tubers] for preserving. The small ones, "svith their tops as little damaged 
as possible, I pot, ^md set into the pit again, giving them a little water 
to settle the soil at their roots. They will only require twice watering 
after this, until their tops or stems are dead, which will be about the end 
of October. The pots must be set into some dry shed, where the frost can- 
not reach them. They will require no farther care until the follovring 
March, when they must be again brought out, and treated as above 
directed. When pits cannot be spared, dig a hole in the open garden, 



CULTURE OF GINGER. 



403 



and put a frame over it. If tan be unattainable, leaves, and a little long 
manure mixed, will do quite as well." This is an economical method of 
growing a supply of ginger for preserving, and is worth the attention of 
those who are fond of that wholesome and pleasant preserve. It should 
be remembered that dry imported roots will not answer the purpose, and 
unless the connoisseur grows his own supply he must depend upon im- 
ported preserv^es, which are both expensive and often of very inferior 
quality. — See Tropical Fruit House. 



D D 2 



404 



SELECT LIST OF SCITAMINE.^: OR REEDY PLANTS. 



TVHl 

Slender Garland Flower. {Hedychium 
gracM'.) Flowers in June and July, 
in sa i lyloam. Division of the root's. 

Officina; Galangale. {Kcempfera Ga- 
lang-.f.: Flowers from June to Sep- 
temb r, ill sandy loam. Division of 
the r' >'> s. 

Narrov m ved Galang-ale. {Kcempfera 
ana It -dki.) Flowers from March 
to :.i in sandy loam. Division of 

tlier( 

Broad-]- \ ed Galangale. {Kaimpfera 
latifti ' '. ) Flowers in April and ' 
June, ill sandv loam. Division of | 
then-:-. ' | 

Ovai Ga l. ^ ale. {Kcempfera ovalifolia.) \ 
Flowe in July and Augnst, in 
sandy "im. Division of the roots. 

Loose-tic v jred Alpinia. {Alpinia Go- 



lan ga.) Flowers from July to Sep- 
tember, in sandy loam. Division of 
the roots. 

Clustered Alpinia. ( Alpinia race- 
mosa.) Flowers from October to 
February, in sandy loam. Division 
of the root. 

Occidental Alpinia. {Alpinia Occi- 
dent alis.) Flowers in April and June, 
in sandy loam. Division of the roots. 

Uprig-ht Alpinia. {Alpinia calcarata.) 
Flowers from September to October, 
in sandy loam. Division of the roots. 

Petiolate Alpinia. {Alpinia malaccen- 
sis.) Flowers in April and May, in 
sandy loam. Division of the roots. 

Spurless Alpinia. {Alpinia midica.) 
Flowers from August to September, 
in sandy loam. Division of the roots. 



Yellow Ir. ian Shot. {Canna lufea.) 

Flowe-- om January to December, 

in ric\ V Division of the roots. 

Glaiic : "^liot. {Canna glauca.) 

Flo' June to August, in 

rich 1 Division of the roots, 
and £ c 

Sweet- T arl and Flower. {Hedy- 

cJilU: nnn.) Flowers from 

June ip.ber, in peaty loam. 

Divi/ ^ r roots. 

Tall G lower. ( Hedychium 

elai - ers from June to De- 

ceiiil dy loam. Division of 

tht: - 

Gardiic. and Flower. {Hedy- 
chium e ; : : crian um.) Flowers from 



June to August, in sandy loam. 
Division of tlie roots. 
Yellow Garland Flower. {Hedychium 
flavuni.) Flowers in June and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Division of 
the roots. 

Variable Garland Flower. ( Hedy- 
chium hetromallum.) Flowers from 
June to August, in sandy loam. 
Di\ision of the roots. 

Pale Yellow Garland Flower. {Hedy- 
chium flavescens. ) Flowers from 
June and August, in sandy loam. 
Division of the roots. 

Spiked Garland Flower. ( Hedychium 
spicatum.) Flowers from June to 
July, in sandy loam. Division of 
the roots. 



RED. 



Spreading ^ dian Shot. {Canna pa- 
tens.) - 8j S from May to July, in 
rich m ( Division of the roots . 

Common ■ ; i: Shot. {Canna indica.) 
Flowers ■ January to December, 



in rich mould. Division of the 
roots. 

Gigantic Indian Shot. ( Canna gi- 
gantea.) Flowers from January to 
December, in rich mould. Di^-ision 
of the roots. 



SELECT LIST OF SCITAMIXE^. 



405 



Eatable Indian Shot. {Canna eduUs.) 
Flowers from September to Decem- 
ber, in ricb mould. Division of the 
roots. 

ShoTH,- Indian Shot. {Canna speciosa.) 
Flowers from Aiig'ust to September, 
in rich mould. Division of the roots. 

Tubular Alpinia. {Aljnnia tubidata.) 
Flowers in July and August, in 
sandy loam. Division of the roots. 

Ceylon' Alpinia. (Aljnnia AUughas.) 
Flowers from February to ^Nlarch, in 
sandy loam. Division of the roots. 

Round-rooted Galang-ale. {Kempfera 
rotunda.) Flowers in July and Au- 
gust, in sandy loam. Division of 
the roots. 

Bordered Indian Shot. {Canna lim- 
bata.) Flowers from January to 
December, in rich mould. Division 
of the roots. 



Variable Indian Shot. {Canna vari- 
ah'dis.) Flowers fj'om January to 
December, in rich mould. Division 
of the roots. 

Red Indian Shot. ( Canna rubra. ) 
Flowers from January to December, 
in rich mould. Division of the roots. 

Red-stemmed Indian Shot. {Canna 
rubricauUs.) Flowers in May, in 
rich mould. Division of the roots. 

Flaccid Indian Shot. {Canna flacckla.) 
Flowers from June to July, in rich 
mould. Division of the roots. 

Striped - leaved Calathea. {CaJatiiea 
zebrina.) Rowers from Januaiy to 
December, in rich mould. Division 
of the roots. 

Narrow - leaved Ging-er. ( Zingiber 
officinale.) Flowers from June to 
Au^st, in sandy loam. Division of 
the roots. 



PURPLE. 



Purple Roscoea. {Roscoea purpurea.) 
Flowers from June to July, in sandy 
loam. Division of the roots. 

Fiddle-shaped Galang-ale. {Kempfera 
pandurata.) Flowers in April and 



June, in sandy loam. Division of 
the roots. 

Opera Girls. {Mantisia saltatoria.) 
Flowers from June to July, in sandy 
loam. Division of the roots. 



SCARLET. 



Scarlet Indian Shot. {Canna coccinea.) 
Flowers from January to December, 
in rich mould. Division of the roots. 

Scarlet Garland Flower. ( Redycliium 
angustifolium.) Flowers from June 



to September, in sandy loam. Divi- 
sion of the roots. 
Lambert's Indian Shot. {Canna Lam- 
berti.) Flowers in May, in rich 
mould. Division of the roots. 



Stalked Indian Shot. {Cajma pedunculata.) Flowers from September to Decem- 
ber, in rich mould. Di-^ision of the roots. 



PIXK. 

Xodding Alpinia. {Alpinia nutans.) I Drooping Alpinia. {Alpinia cernua.) 
Flowers in April and June, in sandy i Flowers in April and June, in sandy 
loam. Division of the roots. \ loam. Di^ision of the roots. 



406 



THE CRYPTOGAMIC STOVE. 



The plants wMch compose the twenty-fourth class of the Linnaean ai'- 
rangement, called Cryptogamia, differ essentially from all others in the 
peculiar conformation of their organs of fmctification. In the higher 
classes of plants the male and female organs are visihle, and either exist 
in the same or on distinct flowers in the same plant, and sometimes in 
distinct plants altogether. The former or hermaphrodite order is by far 
the most general. In Ciyptogamic plants the fructification either consists 
of buds under a particular form, or in small vessels containing a powdery 
substance analogous to seeds, but differing from aU seeds in not being the 
result of impregnation, and also in haying the extraordinary power to 
strike roots from any end, or even from any point of their surface. 

Hence this class has very properly been caUed Cryptogamia, signiiy-ing 
a hidden or clandestine maiTiage. The seeds are exceedingly minute, 
and require a powerful microscope to render them visible. Indeed, 
most of the older botanists were almost convinced that they had no 
seeds at all, and those who were less confirmed in this opinion beheved 
them to be so rarely found as to render invisible the person who could 
collect them. 

Of aU the tribes of plants which constitute this extensive class, that of 
the Filices or Ferns is the most beautiful, and at the same time most 
capable of cultivation. Many of the Musci or jMosses, and some of the 
HqjaticcB or Liverworts, may, however, be successfully cultivated also. 

STRUCTUaE BEST CALCULATED FOR CULTIVATING CRYPTOGAMIC PLANTS. 

Crj^Dtogamic plants are found in the hottest and coldest chmates, as 
well as in those that are temperate. The largest and most splendid, as 
well as the majority of them, are from the tropics ; a stove temperature, 
therefore, must be maintained where the culture of them is to be indulged 



STRrCTURES FOR CRYPTOGAMIC PLAXTS. 



407 



in. The natoal habitats of the majority of ferns, as well as mosses, are in 
shaded places, and where the wind has httle effect upon them ; for, 
indeed, their dehcate and often broadly-expanded fronds are ill-saited to 
resist the fmy of the tempest. They appear to accommodate themselves 
in a cultivated state, and also to exist naturally, in a much closer and 
less rarified atmosphere than that of any other plants, and even to dis- 
pense with a certain portion of hght better than any of the vegetables 
constituting the phcenogamous classes. 

The structm^e, therefore, which we think best calculated for theii* cul- 
tivation would be a low, closely-glazed house or large pit, having a 
northern exposure. There is a considerable degi'ee of difference in the 
size of ferns, as well as that of other plants ; and that difference fre- 
quently exists in the same family or genus, some not exceeding half an 
inch in height, while others reach three or four feet in the frond ; while 
not a few of the tropical species are very rampant growing chmbers, and 
some are stately ti'ees. 

Such being the case, we would propose a house of the ordinary sloping 
roof form, about eight feet high at the back, and ten feet wide ; its length 
may be twenty or thirty feet, according to the extent of the collection in- 
tended to be grown : but a house of the above dimensions would contain a 
very complete one. The internal arrangement of such a house might com- 
prise a platform of brick-work four feet wide next the back, upon which the 
taller and stronger sorts should be placed. The foot-path should not be 
less than three feet in width, and a front platform of three feet next to 
the front glass for the accommodation of the lower-gi'owing kinds. Both 
these platforms should be laid with closely jointed foot-tiles to retain 
moistm'e at the bottom of the pots, and round the margins a projection 
should be raised of one or two kiches, or more, for a hke pui-pose. Still 
further to increase the humidity, which should be maintained as equable 
as possible, the pots in which the plants are grown should be plunged in 
moss, various species of hyjmum, &c. 

The house should be heated with hot water, which might be procured 
from the boiler employed in heating any of the other stoves, which may 
occupy a southern exposure, and be connected with the Cryptogamic 
House, one common wall serving for the back of both : by this mode of 
an-angement a passage may be opened between them, which would be very 
advantageous and convenient. 

The cultivation of these plants has not yet been very much attended to, 
and those who have occupied themselves therein have been contented by 
merely setting apart for them a portion of the general stove ; but far 



408 



THE CKYPTOGAMIC STOVE. 



oftener placing them on back flues or shelves, Trhere they were seldom 
seen, and as seldom attended to, in regard to watering, potting, &c. : the 
consequence was, that most of the rare and delicate species introduced 
have been lost from mere neglect. The best collections of ferns ^ith 
which we are acquainted are those of Messrs. Loddiges, the Liverpool 
and Glasgow Botanical Gardens, Mr. John Allcard, and the Kew Garden. 
The latter collection may be said to owe its origin (at least as a respect- 
able collection) to Mr. John Smith, the principal assistant, who is one of 
the best Cryptogamic botanists of the present day. ^Ir. Smith has 
originated most of the rare species in the Kew Garden from seeds brushed 
off dried specimens in his ovm. herbarium. The Glasgow collection has 
long been maintained by our excellent friend Mr. Murray, the curator, and 
furnished many specimens to Sir W. J. Hooker for his splendid work on 
this order of plants. The Liverpool Crj-ptogamic collection owes its origin 
to IMr. H. Shepherd, who was perhaps the first practical British gardener 
who succeeded in growing ferns from seed. The fine collection of Mr. 
Allcard is in a great degree owing to the enthusiasm of Mr. Bevis, his 
intelligent gardener, who, like ]\ir. Smith, has originated thousands of 
young plants from seeds brushed off the back of dried specimens. 

^Ir. ^Yard, a medical gentleman of great respectabihty, has, we are 
informed, a fine collection growing in the rooms of his house in Well- 
close Square, London, one of the last places the ordinary cultivator 
would have thought of to establish a system of plant cultm-e. The Hor- 
ticultural Societ}^ of London has revived the culture of ferns by ofi"ering 
prizes for the best cultivated collections brought to their exhibitions, and 
this we know has so far acted as a stimulus as to have already induced 
several cultivators to direct their attention to the subject. 

Although ferns do not display such a variety or briUiancy of colours as 
many other tribes, still they are not wanting in interest to the lover of 
plants, independently of the vast and interesting field which they open to 
the scientific botanist for invesrigation. They are for the most part 
evergreen, that is, under good culture ; a collection of them at all times, 
and at all seasons, presents a very perfect whole when viewed in a house 
by themselves. They do not associate well with other plants, excepting 
mosses, many of which might be cultivated amongst them. They do not 
appear to prosper if often removed, or even changed in their position. 
The Orchide^ House appears to us to be the place best adapted to these 
plants when a separate house is not dedicated entirely to themselves. 

So involved in mystery is the production of Cn-ptogamic plants by 
seeds, that we cannot do better than give the following extract upon this 



PHOPAGATIOX BY SEEDS, 



409 



subject from Mr. France's interesting work on British Ferns : — The re- 
production of ferns is a subject involved in much obscurity. Hedwig, 
Bernhardi, and others have proposed theories to explain this intricate 
matter, without success. That the ferns have no visible flower, is evident, 
but that they have some apparatus analogous to stamens and anthers, is 
maintained by many of our first botanists. This opinion has evidently 
been adopted merely to get rid of the doctrine of spontaneous impregna- 
tion, which, however unsatisfactory, must not wholly be discarded until 
something more plausible be substituted. At present nothing whatever has 
been discovered of the origin of the germinating principle in any of the 
Cryptogamic orders, nor the laws which regulate the developement and 
arrangement of their spores. As regards our present tribe, so keen has 
been the search, that every part of the plant has been subjected to the 
minutest investigation, not only the thecae, their ring, and their cover, 
but the spiral vessels of the rachis, the stomata upon their cuticle, and 
the glands which are sometimes found attending upon them. 

Seeds or Spores. — The small, round, rough grains contained in the 
thecae, considered formerly as gemmae or buds, are now known as seeds, 
but differing from common seeds in many respects. They have no coty- 
ledons, but are a mass of cellular substance. Instead of sending up a 
plumule, and downwards a radicle, from fixed points, they grow in- 
differently from any part of their smface, that most exposed to Hght 
shooting into the future frond, while the deeper point propels the root. 
Owing to these differences the seeds have been called, not only here, but 
in all the tribes of Cryptogamic vegetables, spores (or sporules) rather 
than seeds. They retain their vitahty for many years, and those brushed 
off from the dried plants of an herbarium will grow long after the speci- 
mens have been gathered, coming up first with a smaU crown or bud, 
from which soon issues a single leaf, or imperfect frond, not differing in 
texture from the future growth, though, as before stated, much less 
ramified." 

Mr. Uemj Shepherd, of the Liverpool Botanical Garden, has succeeded 
most successfully in propagating these plants by seeds. An account of 
his method will be found pubhshed at length in the Transactiom of the 
Horticultural Society, from which we extract the following, as being quite 
sufficient to explain his practice : — Having provided a common garden 
pot, four and a half inches deep, and three and a half wide, let the bottom 
part, to the height of one inch, be fiUed with fragments of broken pots 
by way of drain. Over these should be spread a stratum of such soil as is 
commonly used for potting greenhouse plants, of the depth of two inches ; 



410 



THE CRYPTOGAMIC STOVE. 



the remaining inch and a half should be fiUed with brown, loamy earth, 
sifted through a hair sieve, the surface being made perfectly smooth, and 
on tliis the seeds are to be scattered as evenly as possible. Care must be 
taken that the wind be not suffered to blow the seeds away, leanng 
nothing but empty capsules. The seeds being sown, no other covering 
is necessary than a bell-glass, which should just fit within the rim of the 
pot, so as to exclude all au\ Tlie pot is then to be kept in a pan always 
half fuU of water, and set in a shady part of the stove or hot-house, being 
always regularly watered as above directed. When the young plants 
have acquired then- second frond or leaf, it is proper to give them a little 
air, by placing a smaU piece of wood under the edge of the glass at one 
side. In a short time afterwards the glass may be entirely removed." 

According to the experiments of ^lessrs. Shepherd, Bevis, Smith, and 
others, the seeds of ferns do not appear to remain long after being sub- 
mitted to a proper nidus before they vegetate. Seeds of Gymnogramma 
tart area were brushed off a frond on the 10th of July, 1817, and on 
the 5th of August, 1818, the plants from these very seeds produced per- 
fect seeds, which were immediately sovm and produced young plants as 
thick as a crop of fine moss by the 8th of September following. Seeds 
obtained from specimens obtained through Dr. Carey from Semaphore, 
were sown on the 1 0th of July, and young plants were obtained by the 
8th of September. 

The seeds of ferns, unlike many other verj^ small seeds, do not appear 
to lose their vegetative properties very soon, for we are informed by 
Mr. H, Shepherd, that he obtained plants fi*om seeds taken from the 
herbarium of Dr. John Reenhold Forster, which were perhaps fifty years 
old. It is probable, if the seeds of ferns were kept dry and inclosed 
in their natural covering, that they would vegetate after being many 
years gathered. These plants appear to shed then- seeds if the fronds be 
allowed to become too old and diy before gathered, and on the other 
hand, if the specimen be gathered too soon, that is, before the seeds be 
fully ripened, they will not vegetate at aU. These circumstances should 
be considered whenever this experiment is to be reduced to practice. 
The seeds appear to, be in the greatest perfection for sowing when the 
fronds are just beginning to turn brown, or rather when the fructification 
is beginning to turn brown on them. 

Fern seeds will vegetate when thrown against a damp wall or sand- 
stone pavement, if kept moderately damp and not brushed over. V»'e 
recollect once seeing a fine crop of young ferns produced by brushing 
dried specimens over large pieces of cinder clinkers placed in a damp 



SOIL AND CULTURE. 



411 



part of one of the stoves in the University's garden, at Liege. We have 
also obtained many by brushing the seeds upon a stem of Ci/cas Circinalis, 
which had no other attention paid them than the regular routine of the 
stove. We state these latter modes merely to show how easily these 
seeds vegetate, and not with a view to recommend the practice, as it is 
attended with chances of disappointment. The practice of ^Mr. Shepherd 
is at once simple and successful, and should be followed by those who 
wish to cultivate this interesting tribe of plants. 

PROPAGATION BY DIVISION OF THE ROOT. 

Many species are readily increased by division of the root, and also 
by runners, but all are rather impatient of the knife, particularly if the 
trunk or stem has to be wounded. The operation and after-treatment are 
so similar to that recommended for other herbaceous plants that any 
fm'ther notice would be superfluous. 

SOIL AND CULTURE. 

The soil which appears to suit the majority of ferns is of a light, rich 
nature : that formed of vegetable mould and sandy peat may in general 
be recommended. Certainly such as are of weak growth, and those that 
are half parasite, or growing upon old trees or decayed wood, can have 
no better soil. There are others, however, of more robust growth, which 
will require a much stronger soil. 

Many of our British ferns will prosper vigorously when submitted to 
the temperature and treatment of the stove, although they wiU equally 
flourish when planted behind a wall in a moist and shaded situation. We 
mention this fact merely to show that, although most of our native ferns 
will thus far accommodate themselves to the circumstances they may be 
placed in, yet the art of man can hardly keep ahve others which are also 
natives of our mountains, even in a cool shaded part of the garden ; for 
example, Pteris crista, Grammitis Ceterach^ AspidiumLoncMtis, Asplenium 
viride, marinum, lanceolatiim, alter7iifoUicm, and sepfentrionale, ^iU 
languish, and in time die, if taken from then' native habitats. 

Need we then be surprised if in a collection, say of five hundred species, 
collected from aU parts of the tropics, that some should refuse to submit 
to the fostering care of man- There are peculiar constitutional habits, 
perhaps we may call them diseases, in some plants, that renders all our 
care in their culture rather an aggravation of their disease than the rc- 



•112 



THE CRYPTOGAMIC STOVE. 



verse ; and as our kno^vledge of these matters is still so limited, we must 
content oui'selves with their loss, and endeavour to rest satisfied vrith the 
enjoyment of those that will submit to culture until experience teaches 
us how to overcome such difficulties. 

Mr. Vrard, of AVell-Close Square, of whom we have already m^de 
mention, has succeeded even in what we should naturally call the worst 
of all localities, the centre of the city of London, in growing many species 
of ferns in a superior manner, and amongst them several that had hitherto 
baffled all the care, convenience, and skill of the gardener. ^Ir. Ward's 
success appears to depend on growing them in air-tight cases, suffering 
the moisture which their pores exude to be absorbed again by the roots, 
^vhile at the same time they are preserved from external injuries and sud- 
den changes of temperature. How long plants may be found to submit 
to this mode of culture we know not, but one fact is pretty well established 
— that plants have been imported fi'om New Holland in such cases 
that never before reached Europe alive. Mr. Ward has not yet made 
public the principles of his theoiy, which would be most valuable were 
they generally known ; he has, however, always shown the greatest libe- 
rality and kindness to cultivators and botanists, by allowing them to see 
his curious collection. 

A somewhat similar practice has been long in use amongst cultivators, 
but from being a common-place matter has perhaps been less attended to 
than ought to have been the case. \Miat we allude to is the practice of 
placing a hand-glass or large bell-glass over certain plants in the stove, 
such disDioncea muscijJida^HymnophyUum, and Trichomanes, of which latter 
our esteemed fiiend Mr. ]Mackay, of DubUn, in his excellent i^ora Hibeniica, 
says he cultivates to perfection by placing the pot in which it is planted 
in the greenhouse under one of these glasses, which, in fact, is placing 
them in a position analogous to that of being under one of ]Mr. Ward's 
cases. 

These opinions, for which we entertain the highest regard, confirm 
us in a long-entertained idea, that the atmosphere of a fern-house 
requii'cs to be kept moist, warm, and as little acted upon by atmospheric 
changes as possible. These conditions being complied with, soil and all 
other species of nouiishment are only secondaiy considerations. 



413 



INDEX. 



Acacia, 213. 
Adenaudra, &c., 77. 
African custard apple, 374. 
Agave, 177. 
Akee tree, the, 373. 
Alig-ator, or Avocado pear, 373. 
Alonsoa, 214. 
Alstroemeria, 157. 
Amaryllis, 143. 
Ammocliaris, 162. 
Aiia^allis, 217. 
Anchovy pear, 374. 
Anigozanthos, 215. 
Anthocercis, 213. 
Antholysa, 147. 
Aquarium, the, 351. 
Aquatic Plants, general management 

of, 353. Select list of, 358. 
Arctotis, 216. 
Astroloma, 76. 
Azalea, 211. 

Babiana, 147. 

Banana tree, 377. 

Barbadoes gooseberry, 374. 

Boronia, 7S. 

Bottom heat, 278. 

Bread fruit, the, 375. 

Brodifea, 149. 

Brugmansia, 216. 

Brunsvigia, 156. 

Bulb House, the, 135. 

Bulbous Plants, structures for, 136. 
Propagation and treatment of, 138. 
General management of, 140. Soil, 
142. Shifting and potting, 142. Se- 
lect list of, 163. 

Cactus, remarks on, 187. 

Calceolaria, 213. 

CameUia House, the, 109. 

Camellias, structures for the growth 
of, 110. Propagation and treatment, 
112. Bv seeds, 114. Bv grafting, 
115. By budding, 116. By^ inarch- 
ing, 117. By laying, 120. General 



treatment, 120. Soil, 122. Shifting- 
or potting, 122. Select hst of, 124. 
Camphor, 391. 
' Canarina, 215. 

■ Caprifolium japonicum, 133. 
Cassia, the, 391. 
Cavenne cherrv, 375. 

; Cereus. 179. 
! Chiron i a, 212. 
I Chlidanthus, 146. 

Chocolate tree, 388. 

Chrysanthemum, 215. 

Cineraria, 217. 

Cinnamon tree, 390. 
i Clerodendron, 216. 

■ Chvea. 145. 
Clove,' the, 391. 

• Coburghia, 145. 
Cocoa-nut palm, 363, 382. 
Coffee tree, 383. 

Cold Pit, the, 265. Management and 
utilitv of, 267. Select list of plants, 
269. 

Combretimi, 303. 

Conservatory, the, 232. Conservatory 
at the Grange, 233. Plan of a, 235*. 
Application of water in, 239. Selec- 
tion of plants for, 240. Select list of 
Dlauts for, 242. 

Coronilla. 218. 

Corrcea, 77. 

Cor^-pha imibraculifera, 365. 
Country- gi-apes, 383.' 
: Comitry currants, 3S3. 
Crassula coccinea, and C. versicolor, 
175. 

• Crista-galli, 216. 
j Crowea^, 78. 

I Cn-ptogamic Stove, the, 406. 
i Cr\T)tO£-amic plants, structure for cul- 
; tivating, 406. ]Mode of cultivatina:, 
408. Propasration by seeds, 409. By 
di\ision of 'the root, 411. Soil and 
culture, 411. Mr. Ward's method of 
cultivation, 412. 
Cyclamen, 151. 



414 



INDEX. 



C\*peras pap'VTiis, 357. 
CjTtaiithus, 147. 

Dapline odora, 132. 
Diosma, 77. 
Dracopliyllum, 76. 
Drv Stove, the, 318. Construction 

319. Select list of plants, 321. 
Durion, the, 381. 

Earthnnt, the, 376. 
Echeveria, 177. 
Echinocactiis, 179. 
Echium, 217. 
Elichrysum, 77. 
Epacris, 76. 

Erica, structiu'es for the growth of, 58. 
Propagation and treat'ment of, 61. 
Propag"ation by cutting's, 63. General 
treatinent of, in doors, 66. Out of 
doors, "1. Soil for, 72. Shifting or 
pottina:, 74. Genera of similar habit 
to, 76—79. Select list of, 79. 

Eriostemon, 78. 

Erythrina, 216. 

Eucomis, 148. 

Eucrosia, 147. 

Euphorbia, 177. 

Eui'yale, 355. 

Ficus Brassii, 381. 

Flues, Dutch, J 3. M'Kenzie's, 14. 

German, 14. General observations 

on, 15. 
Fuchsia, 215. 
Furcroea, 177. 

Galasia, 149. 
Gardenia, 214. 
Genista, &c., 213. 

Gerauiacea?. structures for the gi'owth 
of, 92. Propagation and treatment 
of, 94. Soil, 101. Shifiing or pot- 
ting, 102. Select list of, 104. 

Geranium House, the, 91. 

Gesneria, 302. 

Ginger. S93. 402. 

Gladiolus, 149. 

Glazing-. 50. 

Glories a superb a, 146, 301. 
Gloxinia, 302. 
Gnaphalium, 77. 
Gnidia, 213. 

Greenhouse, aspect for a, 5. General 
remarks on the construction of, 
5. Mode of heating of. 12. Glazing 
of. 50. Form of, 51. Painting of, 55. 

Grillinia, 153. 

Guava, various species, 375. 

Habrantlius, 161. 
Hoeuiaiitlius. 156. 
Heathery, the, 57. 
Heaths. ' See Erica. 
Hibiscus, 215. 



Historical sketch of the cultivation of 
exotic plants, 1. 

Hothouse, wood preferable to iron in 
the construction of, 9. 

Hot water, heating by, 22. Apparatus 
for, 24. Tredsfold's theory- respect- 
ing, 25. Hood's theory, 29. Details 
respecting this mode of heating, 31 
—50. 

Hova, 176. 

Humea, 216. 

Humid Stove, the, 281. Construction 
of, 282. Select list of plants, 306. 

Illicium floridanum, 132. 
Indigofera, 211. 
Ipomoea, 303. 
Ismene, 161. 
Ixia, 149. 
Ixora, 302. 

Jambrosade, or rose-apple, 382. 
Jack fruit, the, 375. 
Jasminum grandiflora, 133. 

Kennedya, various species, 133. 

Lachenaha, 150. 
Lapevrousia, 149. 
Laurifoha, 216. 
Lechenaultia, 217. 
Linum, 213. 
Lobelia, 215. 
Loquat, the, 3S4. 
Luculia gratissima, 133. 

Masrnolia, 131. 

^lalay apple, 383. 
I Mammillaria, 178. 

Mango, the, 386. 

Massonia, 150, 

Mangostan, the, 385. 

Melastoma, 303. 

Melocactus, 17S. 

Mesembiyanthemum, 174. 

Miscellaneous Greenhouse plants, struc- 
tures for, 197. General treatment of, 
202 . Propagation by seeds, 202. By 
cuttings, 203. Soil for, 210. Shifting 
or potting, 210. 

MLxed Greenhouse, the, 197. 
! Monkey bread, 386. 

Morcea," 150. 

Xelumbium. 355. 

Xepeuthes distillatoria and X. phyl- 

lamphora, 345. 
Xerine, 153. 
Neriimi oleander, 132. 
Nutmeg, 394. 
Xymphcea, 354. 

Opuntia Ficus-indica, 0. vulgaris, and 
other species, 381. 
i Opuntia, ISO. 



IXDEX. 



415 



Orcliideae House, tlie, 326. Construe- > 
tion of, 328. Mode of heating-, 333. 

, g-eo2:rapliical distribution of, 

327. Fructification of, 327. Cultiva- 
tion of, 334. Select list of, 346. 

, epiphytal or parasitical, pot- 
ting- and soil, 336. Temperature and 
atmosphere, 338. Propagation, 340. 
Select list of, 341. 

— , terrestrial tropical, potting- 

and soil, 342. List of, 343. 

, epiphvta] extra-tropical, 343. 

list of, 344. 

, terrestrial extra-tropical, list 

of, 344. 

Orangery, the, 249. 

Oranges, structures for the growth of, 
249. Propagation and general treat- 
ment, 250. "Soil, 253. Potting and 
shifting, 254. 

Oryza sativa, 357. 

Oxalis, 150. 

Palms, propagation of, 366. Select 

list of, 367. 
Palm Stove, the, 361. 
Passiflora Londinii, and P. Kermisina, 

134. 

, various species, 379. 

Pelargonium. See Geraniacece. 
Phoenocoma, 77. 
Phoenix dactilvfera, 365. 
Phycella, 161.' 
Pinielea, 211. 
Pimento, or allspice, 393. 
Pishamin, sweet, the, 386. 
Plantain tree, 377. 

Plant Verandah, the, 255. Modes of 

heating, 258. 
PlumbaglD, 215. 

Plums, tropical, various species, 378. 
Poeonia, 217. 
Polyanthus, 151. 
Polygala, 212. 
Protea, 212. 

Protecting Tent, the, 260. Mode of 
construction of, 261. Management 
of plants in, 262. List of plants 
adapted to, 264. 

Psoraiea, 217. 

Quisqualis, 303. 
Fvhexia, 303. 



Rhododendron, 130. 
Roella, 212. 

Sahia, 212. 

Scitaminese, or Reedy Plant Stove, the, 
397. 

, construction of stove for, 

399. General routine of culture, 400. 
Select list of, 404. 

Selago, 212. 

Sempervi^Tim, 178. 

Sinninghia, 302. 

Sion House, conservatory at, 4. 

Sprengelia, &c., 76. 

Stapelia, 176. 

Steam, heating by, advantages of, 17. 
Cisterns, 19. 

Stoves, on the erection of, 275. Ven- 
tilation of, 275. Heating, 276. Water- 
ing, 277. Size and form of, 278. 

Succulent House, the, 171. 

Succulents, structures for the growth 
of, 172. Propagation and treatment, 
174. General treatment of, 181. Soil, 
186. Shifting or potting, 186. Select 
list of, 190. 

Sugar-cane, 388. 

Swansonia, 212. 

Tamarind tree, 388. 
Tecoraa grandiflora, 134. 
Tropaeolum, 159. 

Tropical climbing plants, select list of, 
313. 

Ti'opical Finiit Stove, the, 369. 

Tropical Fruits, structures for the cul- 
tivation of, 370. Select list of, 395. 

Tropical iDlants, 274. Pi'opas-ation and 
treatment of, 285. Seeds, 286. Cut- 
tings, 288. Laying, 294. Inarching, 
296^^ General treatment of, during 
autumn and winter, 296. Dm'ing 
spring and summer, 298. Remarks 
on the winter management of, 303. 

Tropical spices, 389. 

Vallota, 153. 

I Wachendorfia, 153. 
Wisteria chinensis, 133. 

j Zamia, 366. 

j Zeph^Tanthus, 153. 



THE END. 



■VX". L. GSAVES AND CO., PRIXTERS, LONDON. 



